PDA

View Full Version : replacing A/C clutch



mwadams
07-04-2006, 08:21 PM
Well my a/c clutch/coil went out yesterday (hot and humid as he!!). It stopped cooling the interior and started forming sweat beads all over my face. smoke coming from the compressor area. I turned it off and braved the heat in mid-day traffic as i made my way back to the house. Looked in at it and saw the tell-tell tarish looking gunk hanging all over it, clutch was very loose.

I began to gather numbers of what it would cost me. A new compressor would run $190.00 + evacuation of the R12 + fillup of 134a + a new compressor down the road when it seized up from the incompatibility of the two oils. New clutch / coil would be the better route since I like my R12, but $120.00 was still a bit too much and parts had to be ordered. I'll try the wrecking yard.

Found a pretty good looking rebuilt compressor out of a 90 LeBaron turbo. While I'm here I might need a spare SMEC so I grabbed it. $50.00 later and I was headed home to tackle the install.

First off was to remove the new(ish) assembly from the compressor. With a spanner wrench and 13mm socket, the retaining nut broke free, took a homemade puller and pulled the clutch cover off (save those shims). Looked pretty good, only some surface rust on the machined surface. Next was to remove the lock-ring holding the pulley assembly onto the compressor. Stupid lock ring pliers just not big enough, but played with it and finally got it off with some larger snap-ring pliers.

Next was to remove the coil (another lock ring, only deeper into the guts). Popped it off and was ready to do the swap.

Took the belt off, removed the 4 bolts holding the compressor on, and rotated it up and out of the engine compartment. It looked nasty, as well as my hands after toying around with it. Lock nut was barely hand tight. I figured that it may have come loose and caused it to fail. Followed steps above for complete assembly.

This is where it gets fun. Clutch cover goes on with nut, checked gap w/ shims and it was pretty good (about .7mm). Went to torque nut on and... this is too easy. Looked closely and the threaded shaft had snapped. I literally stared at it for 5 minutes, praying that i wasn't actually broke. I was thinking that I had just made this more costly b/c compressor has to come out, R12, etc. Idea bulb pops on, just weld it!! Brilliant. Well, it worked. It better last a while because if it goes out again, a new compressor is going in. Air is chilly and working.

All in all, it is very simple to do, and is much cheaper than throwing in a new compressor. I am spoiled and I love my A/c, thankfully I actually know where to get an R12 top-off if ever I need it:D

Mark

mech1nxh
07-04-2006, 09:27 PM
pretty funny...I like it....
just because high side press has has "overcome" the shear strength of the
comp shaft design .....does not mean the the comp pistons have reached
the temp to friction weld themselves to thier bores......


and noob "Q" here...what mfg makes the comp???.....N/D..SANDEN..YORK...
GM...MA MOPAR..
T.I.A...

mwadams
07-06-2006, 10:26 AM
and noob "Q" here...what mfg makes the comp???.....N/D..SANDEN..YORK...
GM...MA MOPAR..
T.I.A...

The compressor came from mother mopar originally, C171 compressor. The one I pulled from the yard was a rebuild from Four Seasons, which oosed a nice flourescent dye, or else someone was running it using chem-lite fluid.

Here is the site I used to do my swap. Pretty good write-up..
http://www.allpar.com/fix/ac.pdf

Mark

MiniMopar
07-06-2006, 10:33 AM
The one on our cars is the A590 made by Nippondenso. It's a clone of the Mopar C171.

csxtra
07-06-2006, 10:28 PM
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but often when a clutch fries like that, the heat melts the shaft seal on the compressor and the system won't hold a charge after that...ask me how I know...:(

Tony Hanna
07-09-2006, 02:11 AM
If you ever have to replace a compressor (or any component that requires breaking open the system) and you're lucky enough to have a system still charged with r12, just grab an empty r12 cylinder and buy a manifold set. If the compressor is still functional, use the compressor to pump the r12 through the high side connection on your manifold set into the empty cylinder. If the compressor isn't functional, you could rig a recovery pump out of an old fridge or window ac compressor. When you figure the cost of having a professional do the work, I bet you'd come out ahead. Plus you'd be set up to recover the r12 from any junk cars you come across to stockpile for future use. Be sure not to overfill the cylinder. Also, remember to bleed any air off the top of the cylinder before you put the r12 back into the system. You're allowed by law to vent (I think) 10% of the contents of a cylinder that's contaminated with air to purge the air.