Removing rods - direction question.

[85_600]

When I pull the pistons/rods out I've noticed that I'm supposed to note which direction they came out.

To make this easier would it be ok to use a small engraver to mark the rods so I don't F the directions up? I would just be making very small marks so I'm hoping this will be alright. I'm just checking for now.

Thanks,
Paul

[86Shelby]

Yes, it's a good idea to mark the rods before you remove them. Mark the rods and caps all on the same side, next to the parting line. I usually use a centering punch and put 1 punchmark for the # cylinder it is from 1 for #1, 2 for #2, etc. If you do them all on, say, the front side of the engine you'll know they are getting put back in properly as well. There should be an oiling hole on them which is supposed to face one way once in the engine, but I can't remember which way offhand.

This keeps the rods and caps together and positioned correctly. If a rod cap is installed backwards the bore will be out of round and will cause you problems.

[Mike M]

Mark the rod/cap together so you don't get the caps on backwards, also mark which hole they came out of. The oiling hole on the big end of the rod is supposed to point to the front (timing belt side) of the engine.

[mpgmike]

Make sure the tabs on the con rod bearings are on the same side when you install the caps. This prevents the bearings from flattening the tabs and spinning.

Mike

[Lee'sdaytona]

Make sure the tabs on the con rod bearings are on the same side when you install the caps. This prevents the bearings from flattening the tabs and spinning.

Mike
oh SH*T!! I didn't do this when i just put my block back together! CRAP!...I'll just have to hope for the best I guess....
-Lee

[85_600]

I was thinking about making small arrows on the caps and rods, pointing to where they are to meet, along with a number. This way I can't mess it up, but then again, this is me and I've been known to mess up the EASIEST things real quick:o

I'm also taking pics of everything BEFORE I take it apart, and lots and lots of ziploc's as well :thumb:

[jre97]

You'll want to number them too so that you get them back on the same journal.

[Spraynlog]

I noticed a couple things reading through here. On my '86 T1 motor, which has the lightweight rods, the oil squirt hole on the big end points to the rear, not the front. The pistons are marked with a letter 'B' on top, on the Back side. It is a good idea to punch mark the rods and caps to keep same ones together. Looking at the bearing tab slots on the rod and cap will tell you which way they go together.

[85_600]

The more I think about this the more I like my idea of engraving marks pointing which way the rods are supposed to face.

I think with my $$ situation I'm just replacing the one piston, but replacing all the rod bearings. The other two cylinders, only being 120 and 125 psi - that appears to be HG related. The only thing that bothers me is the 1st cylinder being 150. Maybe just a good cleaning when the head is off.

BTW: IF the other two cylinders were 150 or so, would a bad HG make them drop that much - from 150 psi to the 120 and 125psi??

Thanks,
Paul

[Spraynlog]

The more I think about this the more I like my idea of engraving marks pointing which way the rods are supposed to face.

I think with my $$ situation I'm just replacing the one piston, but replacing all the rod bearings. The other two cylinders, only being 120 and 125 psi - that appears to be HG related. The only thing that bothers me is the 1st cylinder being 150. Maybe just a good cleaning when the head is off.

BTW: IF the other two cylinders were 150 or so, would a bad HG make them drop that much - from 150 psi to the 120 and 125psi??

Thanks,
PaulYou could have a carbon build up in #1 that gives you the higher reading. Two adjacent cylinders being low but equal usually is caused by a HG blowout between those two.

[85_600]

You could have a carbon build up in #1 that gives you the higher reading. Two adjacent cylinders being low but equal usually is caused by a HG blowout between those two.

I'm hoping it's just carbon - But then again, if the other two "were" 150 as well, then my compression is really good:D

If not it shouldn't be a problem to clean things up a bit with the head off.

[GLHSKEN]

Make sure the tabs on the con rod bearings are on the same side when you install the caps. This prevents the bearings from flattening the tabs and spinning.

Mike


Those are installed on the valve relief side of the piston.... Ie firewall side.

[turbovanman²]

You can't mess up the bearing install, if you do, the engine won't turn over. Easiest way to remember is the tangs on the bearings, that keep it from spinning, go opposite each other, :D

I doubt you have a head gasket issue, the compression would be alot lower for the 2 cylinders and you would get pressure blowing out of the opposite cylinder when testing.