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tehdrizzle
01-31-2011, 04:20 PM
My car currently has a fuel pressure gauge tapped into the fuel return line. Is this fine or would I be better to have one tapped into the schrader valve on the rail itself?

cordes
01-31-2011, 04:26 PM
My car currently has a fuel pressure gauge tapped into the fuel return line. Is this fine or would I be better to have one tapped into the schrader valve on the rail itself?

If it's tapped into the return line you aren't seeing what pressure is really there. I wouldn't put a FP gauge on the rail as it will cause the schrader valve to break off from what I have read. You can put it in the fuel line which feeds the rail though. That works well.

tehdrizzle
01-31-2011, 04:34 PM
If it's tapped into the return line you aren't seeing what pressure is really there. I wouldn't put a FP gauge on the rail as it will cause the schrader valve to break off from what I have read. You can put it in the fuel line which feeds the rail though. That works well.

If I put it in the line that feeds the rail how would my pressure on the gauge change if it was in the line before the AFPR on the feed line? Wouldn't it always show the same pressure?

tehdrizzle
01-31-2011, 04:54 PM
Okay after thinking about it, since the FPR makes it harder for fuel to return to the tank I would see the pressure difference on the feed line. Just wasn't thinking lol. I'll get it switched around tonight :).

cordes
01-31-2011, 05:35 PM
Okay after thinking about it, since the FPR makes it harder for fuel to return to the tank I would see the pressure difference on the feed line. Just wasn't thinking lol. I'll get it switched around tonight :).

Sounds good.

turbovanmanČ
01-31-2011, 05:55 PM
Use the feed line and you can do what alot of us do, just put a brass tee at the rubber lines going to the fuel rail, then you can add whatever gauge you want.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Canoncamerapics145.jpg

tehdrizzle
01-31-2011, 06:35 PM
Use the feed line and you can do what alot of us do, just put a brass tee at the rubber lines going to the fuel rail, then you can add whatever gauge you want.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Canoncamerapics145.jpg

Just got the brass "T" switched from the return line to the feed line. Now I can see my fuel pressure :). Now all I have to do is get this damn crankshaft seal to stop leaking.

turbovanmanČ
01-31-2011, 07:09 PM
Just got the brass "T" switched from the return line to the feed line. Now I can see my fuel pressure :). Now all I have to do is get this damn crankshaft seal to stop leaking.

Awesome. If you have a CB, use a Gates or OEM seal, I found they don't leak whereas the other brands are a single lip and won't tolerate any pressure or slight crankshaft seal imperfections.

cordes
01-31-2011, 08:05 PM
Simon, do you ream the fitting at all or use a special type? I've always been concerned that the ID of the fitting could create a bottle neck limiting flow too much. I'm sure you have a lot of experience with different HP setups and that fitting combination.

tehdrizzle
01-31-2011, 09:14 PM
Awesome. If you have a CB, use a Gates or OEM seal, I found they don't leak whereas the other brands are a single lip and won't tolerate any pressure or slight crankshaft seal imperfections.

Unfortunately it's not a common block it's an 87 block :(.

4 l-bodies
02-01-2011, 01:10 AM
Unfortunately it's not a common block it's an 87 block :(.
I wouldn't be concerned at all with a early block until close to 400 HP. Not many people make it there with 2V per cylinder. That block will be just fine providing it's got TII rods in it. Esp. if you have a steel crank in it. A Shelby Z right?

BadAssPerformance
02-01-2011, 01:15 AM
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Canoncamerapics145.jpg

Tech tip of the day!

Worm gear hose clamps are NOT Fuel Injection rated hose clamps... Make sure you use FI rated hose too.

turbovanmanČ
02-01-2011, 01:38 AM
Simon, do you ream the fitting at all or use a special type? I've always been concerned that the ID of the fitting could create a bottle neck limiting flow too much. I'm sure you have a lot of experience with different HP setups and that fitting combination.

Nope, just install, nothing special and never seem to run out of fuel.


I wouldn't be concerned at all with a early block until close to 400 HP. Not many people make it there with 2V per cylinder. That block will be just fine providing it's got TII rods in it. Esp. if you have a steel crank in it. A Shelby Z right?

Ditto, I don't recall if the aftermarket replacement for that engine is a double lip.


Tech tip of the day!

Worm gear hose clamps are NOT Fuel Injection rated hose clamps... Make sure you use FI rated hose too.

Cough, whatever, cough, blah blah blah your supposed to use special clamps, NEVER EVER had an issue using worm clamps and interestly enough, that setup has been on there for at least 5 years. Things that make you go hmmmmmmmmm. :nod:

I do agree on using the proper high pressure fuel line, which is much thicker and stronger than the regular stuff.

BadAssPerformance
02-01-2011, 02:10 AM
Cough, whatever, cough, blah blah blah your supposed to use special clamps, NEVER EVER had an issue using worm clamps and interestly enough, that setup has been on there for at least 5 years. Things that make you go hmmmmmmmmm. :nod:

I do agree on using the proper high pressure fuel line, which is much thicker and stronger than the regular stuff.

You're lucky. I have seen cars burnt up from having the correct clamps. They dont cost much more, cheap insurance to do it right.

turbovanmanČ
02-01-2011, 03:24 AM
You're lucky. I have seen cars burnt up from having the correct clamps. They dont cost much more, cheap insurance to do it right.

IF you over tighten them or use the wrong hose, yeah, but use the correct hose and common sense, all good.
Just to put you over the top, :p

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/IMAG0020.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Sonywork131.jpg

tehdrizzle
02-01-2011, 08:34 AM
I wouldn't be concerned at all with a early block until close to 400 HP. Not many people make it there with 2V per cylinder. That block will be just fine providing it's got TII rods in it. Esp. if you have a steel crank in it. A Shelby Z right?

Yeah, it's an 87 Shelby-Z. It's got reconditioned TII rods and the TII crank has been reconditioned as well when the motor was rebuilt.

cordes
02-01-2011, 12:34 PM
Tech tip of the day!

Worm gear hose clamps are NOT Fuel Injection rated hose clamps... Make sure you use FI rated hose too.

I didn't say anything this time because people came out of the woodwork last time telling me that it's not a big deal. I appreciate you doing the right thing and stating the facts as they are. I should have done the same.

BadAssPerformance
02-01-2011, 02:17 PM
IF you over tighten them or use the wrong hose, yeah, but use the correct hose and common sense, all good.
Just to put you over the top, :p


So you use a torque wrench on your worm gear hose clamps? :confused2: What's the torque spec on that? I know its not in the FSM because that FSM specifies FI hose clamps.

Common sense would say to use the correct clamp for the application.

cordes
02-01-2011, 03:19 PM
So you use a torque wrench on your worm gear hose clamps? :confused2: What's the torque spec on that? I know its not in the FSM because that FSM specifies FI hose clamps.

Common sense would say to use the correct clamp for the application.

As I always tell the kids, common sense is none too common. Don't bank on others using it. I'm just surprised that we haven't seen a flock of people defending the practice of using regular worm clamps yet.

turbovanmanČ
02-01-2011, 03:39 PM
So you use a torque wrench on your worm gear hose clamps? :confused2: What's the torque spec on that? I know its not in the FSM because that FSM specifies FI hose clamps.

Common sense would say to use the correct clamp for the application.

100 ft/lbs.

So your telling me you follow every single rule and recommendation when building a car. Do you have a torque angle meter or do you just guess? There are times to be anal and times to just build it, this is one of those times.

cordes
02-01-2011, 04:08 PM
100 ft/lbs.

So your telling me you follow every single rule and recommendation when building a car. Do you have a torque angle meter or do you just guess? There are times to be anal and times to just build it, this is one of those times.

You don't have a torque angle meter?

BadAssPerformance
02-01-2011, 07:15 PM
100 ft/lbs.

So your telling me you follow every single rule and recommendation when building a car. Do you have a torque angle meter or do you just guess? There are times to be anal and times to just build it, this is one of those times.

I use a torque wrench on everthing that matters to hold the motor and trans together... its not about being anal, its about doing it right.

Regarding clamps... I use the correct hose clamps that do not require a torque wrench. Sure, I have used worm gear clamps in a pinch if thats al that was there, but replace them later with FI clamps.

I guess you can use whatever clamps you want on your own cars.... I hope for safety's sake you use the correct parts on custoemr cars.

Regardless, shouldn't we promote safety to fellow members here?