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ScottD
01-15-2011, 12:41 PM
In 2004 my aunt and uncle moved to a new condo in Perry Hall, MD. My parents and aunt/uncle alternate Thanksgiving & Christmas every year and that year it was my aunt/uncle's turn to host Thanksgiving. This particular year I rode with my parents, which allowed me more time to mindlessly gaze out the back seat.

As I'm doing this, about 2/10s of a mile from my aunt's which I've never been to before, I see what appears to be a GLH Turbo in a backyard. I ask my Dad to turn around for another look and he obliges despite loud protests from my Mom. We get a second look and .... what is that, are those Centurions on there?? Is that a GLHS??? It certainly was an 86 GLHS.

On the way home I write down the address of the house. I get home, do a reverse phone number look up using 411.com and sure enough the number comes up! It took several calls to finally catch the owner, but when I do I find he is thinking about buying a house and may want to sell. He knows what the car is, knows Cliff Sebring, and was involved in SDAC years back.

My dad and I go back out there, check the car out. It's solid, a little spot of rust on the driver's side frame rail, needs interior work/paint, but seems to run well. I want it but the owner isn't sure what it is worth, so he wants a week to figure out what a fair price is. He gets back in touch with me and we agree to a price. A friend with a rollback picks the car up for me right after Christmas and brings it to my house. I post my purchase on TD and someone posts this:

"Was this Rob's car?

<answering own question> It had to be. I stopped by Saturday around Noon and his Aunt said someone just left with it.<end of answering own question>

I stopped by and bugged him to buy it over the past 3-5 years but haven't stopped by over there in about 1.5 years. I guess I should have stopped by sooner. Nice find. It had rust last time I saw it, and that was the one thing I really did not like about it...but sometimes rust free cars are hard to find around these parts.

Good thing I did not stop by a few hours sooner!"

Whew that was close! With the car home I parked in my back garage until I could get to it as I was working on other projects at that time. In July 2006 I pulled it out and started messing with it. The first project was to restore the wheels and give it a good bath. Here are some pics from July 2006.

2826928270

ScottD
01-15-2011, 12:51 PM
Stripping and polishing the wheels are a lot of work. I've done this several times and find the following process to work fairly well.

1) Strip clear coat using Aircraft Stripper in a spray can or TalStrip which comes in a big jug. This is NASTY stuff, wear gloves and a mask when using. You want to have the tires off the wheels if possible and the wheel weights removed. Coat the wheels in the stripper and it will start to peel up the clear coat. You may have to do several coats, it is tedious.
2) Use a power washer to wash the stripper off. Make sure you protect your eyes. If spots are left re-treat them with stripper and repeat. Get all the clear off. The power washer is also good at getting brake dust grime off the wheel inserts.
3) Start wet sanding. I go from 180-320-400-600-800-1000-1500-2000. Yeah, it's tedious, but it works. Others may have a more expedient method using drill attachments, I've just had good luck over the years with this method.
4) Once the wet sanding is done, polish the wheel using Mother's aluminum wheel polish. I use a buffing wheel on a drill. This brings the shine out.

Some pics of the finished product.

shadow88
01-15-2011, 01:05 PM
Thoso look great! I bet you have some impressive blisters!

ScottD
01-15-2011, 01:21 PM
Thoso look great! I bet you have some impressive blisters!

Yeah, that usually results in some nice blisters but there are certain parts of the wheel you can really only do by hand. The other thing that has resulted in blisters is the side moldings, which I'll be covering in an upcoming post.

ScottD
01-15-2011, 07:18 PM
After getting the wheels done and new tires on, the next steps were to get the car roadworthy. The previous owner told me that the car had two problems, that it would randomly stop running and the headlights would randomly go out.

I worked on the headlights and found that the high beam switch had some issues. To be safe I replaced the high beam switch and the headlight switch. Problem solved.

The cutting out problem I assumed to be the hall effect pickup. But since I didn't know how old the fuel pump was, I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump. That problem was solved. So I got historic tags (at that time, MD law said the car must be 25 years old or could be 20 yrs old and would qualify if less than 1000 were built, it took some frustration but MVA finally granted me the historic tags) and took the car for an inaugural spin.

The first spin didn't go so well. It was making some horrific noises when I got into the throttle. It sounded like bearing noise. The power steering didn't work either. I decided to put a new alternator and water pump on because the car had 86k on it and it sounded like one of the two had failed. I also put on a new ps pump. I was a little irritated when the noise was not gone and the power steering still did not work after changing these parts. I next felt the shaft play on the turbo and it was terrible. The wheel was grinding against the inside of the housing. So off came the head, and a used Garrett I had went, as did a new head gasket, bolts, and timing belt.

I finally got a successful drive out of the car after replacing the turbo. It ran well, but other issues cropped up. In addition to the power steering not working, the suspension was in sorry shape. It felt like two of the four Koni's were blown, the car felt horrible. I drove the car this way for a few months though because I was so excited just to have it on the road. The next step was the suspension and steering rack.

ScottD
01-18-2011, 11:42 PM
I thought doing the steering rack would be pretty straight forward. As usual WRONG :eyebrows:

I got the k-frame lowered and inside the driver's side frame rail there was some rust. I started working at it and .... the hole got bigger and bigger. Before I knew it I had two fairly sizeable holes where I'd cut all the cancer out of it.

ScottD
01-18-2011, 11:46 PM
I set about making some patch panels out of black steel that I got from a local welding shop. I used 1/4 on the lower hole and 1/8 on the inside hole. Fabricating the panels was time consuming and took a lot of trial and error.

ScottD
01-18-2011, 11:50 PM
The next step was to con Troy (turbojerk) into coming down and welding the patch panels in. Big props again to T-sizzle for coming down and bringing his welder and patching this up for me. I used some JB waterweld in the one spot to level out where the patch was a little lower than the rail, painted it, and hit it with undercoat (the car was factory undercoated) and it looks good as new.

While the k-frame was down, I also put in new ball joints and polybushings, and pulled the Konis for new KYBs so the car could be driven until I got the Konis restored.

The original steering rack I took to Napa. It was sent away to be rebuilt and came back in a couple of weeks.

While I was at it I also put MP motor mounts in.

rib256
01-24-2011, 01:59 AM
Nice save. I didn't know NAPA would rebuild a rack. Good to know.

ScottD
01-24-2011, 02:13 PM
After getting the car back together from the rust and suspension repairs, I drove it that way for about another 12 months. At that point a couple of other problems developed. First, putting the Stage II LM in caused the clutch to slip at 14psi. Second, the car started to become darty when stopping. The last thing was one of the injectors started leaking and leaving fuel puddled on top of the intake.

This became a classic "one thing leads to another" instance. First, the drivetrain came out. Then instead of reinstalling the original #s matching engine, the built 89 2.2 T2 I had for another now departed project car went in along with a new clutch, moly plate, and girdle for the 525. I decided to keep the 525 because I neglected to mention in an earlier post that one of the other initial things I did to the car to get it on the road was convert the linkage to heim joints.

With the engine out of the car, I was able to detail the engine bay. I wanted to keep the original paint, but it was covered by that Rusty Jones undercoating. A lot of patience, a rag, and brake cleaner got it all off.

With the engine out, I could also get to that one pesky brake line that goes across the firewall, so in addition to upgrading the front brakes to SLH 1 I also replaced all the rubber and metal brake lines. The metal lines were time consuming as I had to make them all, but it was worth it.

Here are some pictures - note that I subsequently replaced the black Turbo valve cover with a Shelby valve cover.

http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/scottdrega/GLHS/HPIM0713.jpg

http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/scottdrega/GLHS/HPIM0706.jpg

http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/scottdrega/GLHS/HPIM0710.jpg

http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/scottdrega/GLHS/HPIM0708.jpg

http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/scottdrega/GLHS/HPIM0711.jpg

ScottD
01-26-2011, 10:23 AM
Once the drivetrain was in I thought I was done for a while. Wrong.

The first problem I discovered was one of the freeze plugs was leaking. Thankfully it was the one on the front of the block by the distributor. It was a real pain to get out, but I was able to get that resolved.

Next I had an oil leak. It looked like the oil pan was leaking. After replacing the oil pan gasket twice, it turned out that what was leaking was the intermediate shaft seal. It got pinched on re-installation and oil was running down the pan, making it appear the pan was leaking.

After that the car wouldn't idle, it kept idling at 2000rpm. I was beginning to think the car was cursed or just liked the garage so much it didn't want to leave. The idle problem drove me crazy for a bit. I found a frayed wire at the speed sensor, and fixed the wiring and installed a new speed sensor. I tried a different TPS and AIS. I tried a different LM. Nothing seemed to work. I had gone over the vacuum harness before, but it was original. So I installed a vacuum block. I made a mount out of aluminum bar stock and mounted it using pre-existing holes in the passenger side fender. Still it wouldn't idle.

My friend Pat suggested I run the car and stuff a rag in the throttle body and if it kept running it was getting air from somewhere else. I tried this and sure enough it kept running. The problem turned out to be either a bad intake/exhaust manifold gasket or a bad EGR gasket. I had removed the EGR valve and made a plate to cover it using aluminum bar stock but it turned out that in testing the manifold that was an issue.

I finally got all these gremlins worked out and was ready to do some driving and start attacking the interior next.

turbojerk
01-26-2011, 01:37 PM
Looks good so far,... I'll give you $500 for it!

168glhs1986
01-26-2011, 06:17 PM
Looks good so far,... I'll give you $500 for it!

For a front wheel drive Dodge from the 80's that looks like a velvetta box? That's above market value for these things Scott, I'd take it.

ScottD
01-26-2011, 11:24 PM
Looks good so far,... I'll give you my 89 CSX and $500 for it!

Fixed it for ya!

ScottD
01-31-2011, 08:58 PM
The next step was to get the inside of the car looking respectable.

The dash and carpet were thankfully in very good shape. The dash just required some Armor All. The carpet I soaked with Blue Coral, got a bucket of hot water and a scrub brush, and scrubbed it. Then I vacuumed it out, let it air out with the windows down for a day or two, and it turned out great.

The next steps I did separately but would advise doing at the same time. I actually did the headliner when I put the car on the road, but it makes more sense to do these two together. I would also advise doing this during WARM weather. The plastic is old and brittle and much easier to remove and work with on a nice hot summer day.

To get the headliner down, you need to remove all the trim. The easiest way is to just take everything out, the Apillar trim, the trim at the top of the windshield and hatch, the Bpillar trim, and the rear sail panels. Once you get this all out you can take out the sunvisors. Then take out the dome light, which will be the last piece holding it up at that point. Then you can take the headliner out of the rear of the hatch.

For material, in a lot of cases you can go to JoAnn Fabrics and get headliner material. However, JoAnn does not carry light gray, so I went to an upholstery shop to get a color that was almost a perfect match to the factory material.

Get the old headliner material off and as much of the old glue off as possible off the headliner board. You can use a soft bristle scrub brush to do this. Just keep scrubbing at it and the loose stuff will come off. Don't use anything more aggressive than a brush because you'll risk tearing up the board material.

Cut the material so you have a couple of inches hanging over the edges of the headliner board all the way around, front, rear and sides. The board isn't flat, so when you push down on the material to glue it down it will shorten up, and at that point you'll be glad you left that extra material there.

Once you have the material ready to go the next thing you'll need is a big can of 3M headliner adhesive. You'll want to spray ALOT of glue on the headliner board AND the back of the headliner material (the foam backing). Let it set up for about 10 minutes and then carefully apply the material to the board, being careful not get any wrinkles in the material. Once attached to the board I like to just let it set up for a day before reinstalling.

ScottD
01-31-2011, 09:06 PM
Before you put the headliner back in you might as well make the rest of the interior look nice.

The plastic panels in these cars tend to yellow and look terrible over the years if the car was kept in the sunlight for any length of time. The rear sail panels can get especially faded and nasty looking.

The miracle cure for this is SEM Warm Gray paint (15183).

I cleaned up the panels in my car using a little soap in warm water and a soft bristle brush. Then I let them dry overnight. The next day I painted with the paint. I put 2-3 light coats on followed by 2 light coats of Krylon clear coat to protect them.

This is an especially good thing to do with an 86 four door L body as 86s had one year only 2 piece door panels. The bottoms are vinyl which usually hold up, the top pieces are plastic which don't. Some SEM paint makes them look like brand new though. The door panel pieces were the only pieces of the interior that required masking, masking off the chrome strip by the window scraper and popping off the chrome piece that surrounds the door lock.

Here are some pictures of a finished door handle and upper door panel.

Once you're done painting you're ready to reinstall the headliner followed by the interior trim and you'll have an interior that looks new ... well if your seats are in good shape, which of course mine weren't.

ScottD
01-31-2011, 09:14 PM
The next thing that happened was I purchased my 85 Turismo 2.2. I wanted to use the KYB shocks and struts on the GLHS on the Turismo, so I sent the original Konis out to Koni to be rebuilt. It was well worth it. Here a couple pics of the Konis after getting them back and on the car. I think when all was said and done it was about 6 weeks time between sending them out and getting them back.

ScottD
01-31-2011, 09:18 PM
Here are some pics I forgot to put in an earlier post, a before pic of the engine compartment and some pics of the rebuilt 2.2 on the stand and the trans after girdle and moly plate installation.

ScottD
01-31-2011, 09:30 PM
I thought I had some pictures of the completed seats but that will have to wait for a bit as the car is at the body shop right now. I'll take those later.

But in terms of the seats, the vinyl on the seats was able to be re-used. It was in excellent condition after cleaning it up with warm water and again a soft bristle brush.

The seat cloth material was in sorry shape as they usually are. However, my local upholstery shop (Main Street Upholstery in Thurmont, MD) was able to source NOS material. He had the seats for about a week and they turned out GREAT. Again, I'll post pics of these later.

ScottD
02-14-2011, 09:16 PM
In December 2010 I decided finally to take the plunge and send the car off for paint.

Here it is in all its stripped glory before being loaded on the dolly for transport.

ScottD
02-14-2011, 09:18 PM
With the car gone I could start doing some of the things I was handling myself to save my body man time and to save me $.

The first thing I started with was the fog light covers.

A little bumper black and new decals from Positive Impressions and they look good as new.

ScottD
02-14-2011, 09:20 PM
The next thing I attacked was the tail lights.

The tail lights in the car were done. The reverse lights were all cracked and weathered.

I managed to find a mint set of taillights in the junkyard.

Stealing a cue from Greg Sultner's blue GLHT, I took a little brake clean on a rag and rubbed off the chrome highlights on the lenses. This did two things, it provided for a cleaner look and eliminated me worrying about how to make the chrome strips look new, as they had a couple little spots where they weren't perfect.

ScottD
02-14-2011, 09:27 PM
The next step was the side moldings.

Trim Gard makes an aftermarket molding that is VERY close to original. However, it wasn't exactly the same, so before going that route I decided to try and restore a set of moldings.

I had a set of moldings that were decent that came off a parts car. The best time to get these moldings off a car is in 90 degree plus heat as you can pull them off pretty easily.

I next removed the double sided tape off the back. This was a painfully slow process. I used a heat gun and slowly rubbed off the tape with my thumb. Then I used a fine sanding drum on a dremel and lightly sanded the remaining adhesive off.

Next I attacked the outer side. I cleaned it with warm water, let it dry, and painted it. It turned out like crap. I sanded it some and painted again. Still looked like crap.

At this point I switched from 800 grit paper to 220 grit. After doing the pieces in 220 grit I then sanded them in 400 grit. Then I switched paint from bumper black to SEM Trim Paint based on another thread I found on TM.

They turned out like this and look like new.

ScottD
02-14-2011, 09:32 PM
The next step was to go at the bumpers.

I tried stripping them first with Tal Strip. However, I learned that Tal Strip works best between 70-90 degrees. It really didn't do anything to the paint in the 30 degree weather I was working in.

So I started with a wire wheel on a drill and went at the bumper in a spot. For all the chips in this factory paint, the stuff didn't want to come off easily.

I decided to investigate having the bumpers powdercoated at this point. I thought this would prevent stone chips better as I do intend to drive this car, and I thought the powdercoating would turn out better than my efforts. In talking to the powdercoater they told me they would blast the bumpers anyway so don't waste my time trying to strip the bumpers. That was music to my ears. Here is how the bumpers turned out.

Turbo224
02-15-2011, 12:01 PM
Dang, this car is going to look GOOD! Is the powdercoat on the bumpers gloss, or satin? One thing I might add is that if you want to keep the "chrome" strip on the tail lights, you'd be surprised what a silver sharpie will do. I did this on my old GLH and it actually turns out pretty decent all things considered.

ScottD
02-15-2011, 05:25 PM
Dang, this car is going to look GOOD! Is the powdercoat on the bumpers gloss, or satin? One thing I might add is that if you want to keep the "chrome" strip on the tail lights, you'd be surprised what a silver sharpie will do. I did this on my old GLH and it actually turns out pretty decent all things considered.

I had the bumpers done in gloss black because I thought it would look better with the gloss black paint the car will be done in.

However, I'm going to have the ground effects done in satin for the sake of originality.

turbojerk
02-15-2011, 09:10 PM
Two words... BUMPER TUCK!

rx2mazda
02-15-2011, 10:02 PM
I love these kind of builds! This car is gonna be sweet!

ScottD
02-15-2011, 11:42 PM
Two words... BUMPER TUCK!

Two words ... heck no!

---------- Post added at 10:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 PM ----------


I love these kind of builds! This car is gonna be sweet!

I hope so ... it's been a long road to get it to this point, but well worth it!

turbojerk
02-16-2011, 04:57 AM
Two words ... heck no!

Two more,.. Why not?

rx2mazda
02-16-2011, 10:18 AM
Two more,.. Why not?

two words.......pure ist. lol

turbojerk
02-16-2011, 10:22 AM
Bah,...

Go to bed and wake up in the morning it'll still be an Omni... I'm not saying to cut a hole in the roof... It's a change that could be made and reverted easily if someone would offer him $20k+ for it,...as if... Not my car thought, just a though...

ScottD
02-16-2011, 11:48 AM
two words.......pure ist. lol

Carroll's on the right track :-)

If it was a GLH-T or say a famous TBI purple Omni, a bumper tuck would be more of a possibility.

Reeves
02-16-2011, 03:24 PM
If not a bumper tuck, then why no chrome on the tail lights? Where's the love?

Subscribed! Great build!

turbojerk
02-16-2011, 03:27 PM
Snap!

ScottD
02-16-2011, 07:16 PM
If not a bumper tuck, then why no chrome on the tail lights? Where's the love?

Subscribed! Great build!

Jeez Reeves you're stirring the pot for t-sizzle haha!

I like the look of no chrome on the taillights AND as a practical matter, taking the chrome off was easier than trying to restore it or spending $ on NOS taillights (if they're still available, I haven't checked).

While the bumper tuck would be reversible, I just prefer to leave that stock.

turbojerk
02-16-2011, 09:27 PM
I just took the chrome off the Whore's taillights. Much nicer!

ScottD
02-16-2011, 09:40 PM
I just took the chrome off the Whore's taillights. Much nicer!

Yeah, I stole this idea from HP.

I was thinking about doing the door handles in black with flat black stickers to hide them but that damn chrome is a pain to paint.

rx2mazda
02-16-2011, 09:47 PM
Yeah, I stole this idea from HP.

I was thinking about doing the door handles in black with flat black stickers to hide them but that damn chrome is a pain to paint.

send them to Rob(92Spiritrt)and let him blast and powdercoat flat black.

ScottD
02-16-2011, 09:55 PM
send them to Rob(92Spiritrt)and let him blast and powdercoat flat black.

Can't do that - they've got that stupid plastic piece on the inside of the handle that unless Rob has some sort of infrared curing light will melt in a regular powder coating oven.

I painted a set, sanded them down, painted w/ self etching primer, then filler primer, then top coat with this POR-15 black cote stuff that supposedly has a nice hard finish but they just turned out so so. I probably should have used gloss black instead, but after doing all that work I didn't feel like doing them over.

NOS handles are still available and the route I'm most likely going to go.

Reeves
02-17-2011, 12:08 AM
Jeez Reeves you're stirring the pot for t-sizzle haha!

I like the look of no chrome on the taillights AND as a practical matter, taking the chrome off was easier than trying to restore it or spending $ on NOS taillights (if they're still available, I haven't checked).

While the bumper tuck would be reversible, I just prefer to leave that stock.

Bumper tuck looks much better IMO.

I'll give you the head up on the NOS Mopar door handles though......they are IDENTICAL to the Help section door handles, minus the stickers, and twice the price. David Salamone at Positive Impressions sells the stickers. I'd go the help route again if I had it to do all over (which I'm sure I will in another few years).


Edit:
Forgot to mention that I also had to weld the studs to the NOS door handles to keep them from spinning when tightening the nuts. I dont' think I've had to do that to too many HELP door handles.

ScottD
02-17-2011, 09:15 AM
Hmm. I have the stickers already from Salamone.

I actually had a set of NOS handles come in last week and 3 out of four of them were damaged.

We sent them back.

Reeves
02-17-2011, 09:35 AM
I think they are re-boxing or getting the door handles from the same supplier. Kind of like you order a Mopar oil pump and end up with a Melling.

ScottD
02-17-2011, 01:12 PM
Interesting. I looked up the Dorman handles on ebay and they're typically $12 each compared with $32 each from the dealer.

turbojerk
02-17-2011, 02:16 PM
Interesting. I looked up the Dorman handles on ebay and they're typically $12 each compared with $32 each from the dealer.

Can I have your old ones??

ScottD
02-17-2011, 07:35 PM
Can I have your old ones??

I have a whole box of handles if you need handles.

omni_840
02-17-2011, 08:38 PM
Very nice looking build!

ScottD
02-17-2011, 10:58 PM
Very nice looking build!

Thanks!

ScottD
02-21-2011, 07:00 PM
Pic of the finished re-upholstered front seat as promised previously.

ScottD
02-21-2011, 07:24 PM
Stopped by the body shop today. Progress!

turbojerk
02-23-2011, 05:05 AM
Stopped by the body shop today. Progress!

What a P.O.S! :)

moparman76_69
02-23-2011, 11:36 AM
I have a pair of new handles that just need the stickers applied, chrome is brand new.

ScottD
02-23-2011, 02:38 PM
What a P.O.S! :)

Kiss my S, just kiss it! LOL

ajakeski
03-08-2011, 11:34 PM
Impressive...most impressive.

ScottD
11-11-2011, 08:53 PM
Stopped by the body shop today. Car is in full primer and will be sprayed very soon. Will post pics when I get the chance.

Marcus86GLHS
11-13-2011, 05:39 AM
Scott like others I am also enjoying your write-up, this will be a very nice 86S for sure. I like the gloss black bumpers, I agree that the bumper-tuck is a no-no for this car. I have a set of NOS tail lite lenses (just the lenses), if you want to go full stock on those let me know (email markglhs@aol.com), for a car this nice I would be willing to sell them for what I paid.

What are the plans for the engine/driveline? (maybe i missed that post)

ScottD
11-13-2011, 01:23 PM
I have a set of used lenses that were going back on the car. The originals, the reverse lights were all cracked up looking. The used ones look perfect EXCEPT that the chrome on them was not perfect. I took the chrome off using brakleen. I think adds a subtle touch. I may consider those NOS pieces you have though.

The engine is a rebuilt 89 T2 common block. The original engine is on a stand in my garage. The trans is a 525 with heim joint linkage, moly plate, and girdle. This is the trans the car came with but it was not the original trans to the car, that is long gone. If the 525 goes I have a 555 to go back in and would put the 555 in using Omnipotents rod shift kit.

The engine has a mildly ported head, ported exhaust manifold, plus 20 injectors, AFPR, MP Stage 2 LM, cut out raiser and runs about 17-18lbs of boost.

Marcus86GLHS
11-13-2011, 05:45 PM
^excellent set-up. looking forward to more progress pix.

ScottD
11-13-2011, 10:53 PM
Latest pics from the body shop. The "new" passenger side doors have been hung and prepped. The original doors were rusted on the bottom and it was easier to just put other doors on. The driver's side doors, the rear was perfect, the front had a little rust that was fixed so the Shelby sticker could stay on the car.

The box on the hood of the car has the new decals and Omnipotent fasteners in it.

168glhs1986
11-13-2011, 11:04 PM
Now this is getting good. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

vntned
11-14-2011, 12:18 PM
I hate you scott! And I mean that from the bottom of my jealous little heart!

ScottD
11-14-2011, 12:43 PM
Thanks Ned!

I'm off to the body shop again today. The studs on the 3rd brake light broke off when they took it off. I fixed them with 1/4-20 speed nuts and 1/4-20 1 inch long stainless steel bolts. Should be good to go. Gotta return it and a new battery for the car, the body shop said they are tired of pushing it around LOL.

turbojerk
11-14-2011, 12:49 PM
I hate you scott! And I mean that from the bottom of my jealous little heart!

I hate that M-F'er too!

omni_840
11-14-2011, 02:02 PM
Looking good! So when is the color being sprayed?

ScottD
11-14-2011, 02:05 PM
I hate that M-F'er too!

I hate you too you CSX driving d-bag!


Looking good! So when is the color being sprayed?

Hopefully this week!

168glhs1986
12-05-2011, 09:58 PM
No updates from the paint shop?

ScottD
12-05-2011, 11:56 PM
Hopefully I will have an update to report soon.

turbojerk
12-09-2011, 02:31 PM
Top secret spy photo just released from the KGB, via the ATF, with approval from the FBI...

36029

168glhs1986
12-09-2011, 04:41 PM
Are you sure that's black - it looks blue on my screen. Kinda like a chicago bears deep blue

ScottD
12-09-2011, 05:23 PM
Top secret spy photo just released from the KGB, via the ATF, with approval from the FBI...

36029

It's black again woot!!!! Did you pay for the paint job for me while you were there???

ScottD
12-09-2011, 05:33 PM
Another spy photo from secret agent turbojerk.

36030

turbojerk
12-09-2011, 05:57 PM
I physically stepped into, and then back out of this paint job. REAL DEEP!

ScottD
12-09-2011, 06:28 PM
I physically stepped into, and then back out of this paint job. REAL DEEP!

Awesome! I told you he does good work. All I told him was make it looks as good as you made my Spirit R/T look, sounds like he listened :o

turbojerk
12-09-2011, 07:39 PM
I have my CSX hood outt there to be done. You can see it in the reflection of the 1st pic

ScottD
12-09-2011, 07:49 PM
I have my CSX hood outt there to be done. You can see it in the reflection of the 1st pic

Did you figure out the paint code? I think it is PR1 - Exotic Red.

turbojerk
12-10-2011, 08:36 AM
Yeah I did. And yes PR1 is it.

They didn't have it in their books and whats weird is that the color year was listed as 89 to 91... What else got Exotic Red other than the 89 CSX up till 91??

ScottD
01-26-2012, 08:59 AM
Dropped off the last parts today to put it back together. Getting close!

370403704137042

Turbo224
01-26-2012, 05:27 PM
Paint looks great!

omni_840
01-26-2012, 07:10 PM
Paint looks great!

Agreed! looking forward to more pics:nods:

168glhs1986
01-26-2012, 11:55 PM
That's gonna be nice Scott. Paint and body work for under 5G? You can PM me if you'd like:)

ScottD
01-27-2012, 10:39 AM
I don't have the final tally yet.

Some of the work I did myself, like disassembly, restoring the side moldings. I also did all the parts gathering. I'm letting the body shop do re-assembly because they always have two people or more working. For me to do it, I have to load freshly painted parts back in my truck, transport them, and then find someone to help me. I'd rather have them do it.

Once it is back from paint the next steps are to re-charge the AC, install a new head unit and sub with rear speakers (which I need to figure out where to mount) and install a rare factory DC part I've been saving for the car.

docNUCCA
02-05-2012, 12:18 AM
anxiously subscribed as my first post on turbo-mopar.com

I always lusted over one of these I frequently saw in my area as I drove my 86 GLH at age 18.

Can't wait to see the final product.

cordes
02-05-2012, 01:42 AM
I don't have the final tally yet.

Some of the work I did myself, like disassembly, restoring the side moldings. I also did all the parts gathering. I'm letting the body shop do re-assembly because they always have two people or more working. For me to do it, I have to load freshly painted parts back in my truck, transport them, and then find someone to help me. I'd rather have them do it.

Once it is back from paint the next steps are to re-charge the AC, install a new head unit and sub with rear speakers (which I need to figure out where to mount) and install a rare factory DC part I've been saving for the car.

Spill the beans on the DC piece you've been saving!

ScottD
02-05-2012, 09:35 AM
Spill the beans on the DC piece you've been saving!

The DC piece is a DC performance timer. It's like an early version of a G-tech.

ScottD
02-05-2012, 09:39 AM
Picked up the car yesterday. This is the lone picture I was able to get before it started snowing. More pics to follow once the weather cooperates.

37250

168glhs1986
02-05-2012, 10:56 AM
Congrats Scott - can't wait to see it. How did side molding turn out?

ScottD
02-05-2012, 11:27 AM
Side molding looks good!

cordes
02-05-2012, 09:49 PM
The DC piece is a DC performance timer. It's like an early version of a G-tech.

Excellent. Please keep detailed notes on how it works out for you. I've passed up a couple of them now, but it's been very difficult.

ScottD
02-10-2012, 12:23 PM
Excellent. Please keep detailed notes on how it works out for you. I've passed up a couple of them now, but it's been very difficult.

I may not get to this for a little bit. Right now I'm trying to get the car detailed because it came back a mess, especially underhood. Once it is detailed I'll pull it outside in the sunlight and take more pictures.

phoebegoesvroom
02-10-2012, 01:37 PM
Subscribed! I hope to tidy up my 87 GLHS in a similar manner. Very nice work on yours so far!

ScottD
02-23-2012, 10:23 PM
Found new rear side marker lights. $3.90 each. Woot!

http://http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?64069-4-door-L-body-side-marker-lens-for-rear&highlight=

Also just got done installing Omnipotent's (Greg Thewes) 4 door L-body window channel kit. This is a MUST DO. I didn't realize how crappy the original window channels were until I did this. These are nice and tight!

With the window channels in and the engine bay now detailed again, hopefully I can now pull the car out, wash it, and get some good pictures.

cordes
02-23-2012, 11:16 PM
That link was no good. Glad to hear that you found them though.

ScottD
03-03-2012, 08:40 PM
37915379163791737918379193791737921

Pat
03-03-2012, 11:23 PM
Looks great!

ScottD
03-03-2012, 11:41 PM
Thanks! Drove it for the first time today in about 14 months woo hoo. Next step is to get the AC working. Could not hold vacuum, gotta figure out where it is leaking. I had charged the AC before it went to paint and it worked well but quickly lost the charge. I have new lines, seals and a different condensor on it now, still leaks somewhere, hmm.

phoebegoesvroom
03-04-2012, 11:22 AM
Looks awesome!

ScottD
01-09-2013, 08:19 PM
Since it snowed here in MD and they salted the roads, and I had a week off for the holidays, I decided to tackle some issues that had been annoying me.

First, I pulled the 525. There was nothing wrong with it, but the stock clutch I was using started slipping at higher boost when I upped the boost to 17psi. I installed a new T22/T3 hybrid clutch, a rebuilt 555 and used the Omnipotent shifter bracket adapter.

http://www.omnipotentparts.com/product_detail.htm#Transmission Shifter

The Omnipotent kit kept me from cutting holes in the floor. It also allowed me to use the heim joint set up I'd already made for the 525. This kit is EXCELLENT and well worth the money.

I also pulled the dash and installed a new evaporator. I installed a new heater core while I was in there just to be safe. Now hopefully when I go to pull vacuum on the AC system it will hold vacuum and I can charge with R134.

Also, two other things I did in the preceding months were install 6x9 rear speakers and LED dash lights. For the speakers, I used aluminum bar stock and 6x9 boxes. I set it up so there was NO drilling in the package shelf where they sit and I can remove them in 2 minutes. For the LEDs, I used blue and a removed the blue light "condoms" in the cluster. Makes a huge difference.

omni_840
01-09-2013, 08:38 PM
Nice update! So was the install of the omnipotent shifter adapter easy to install? I remember someone havin issues with the one they had

ScottD
01-09-2013, 10:08 PM
I had one minor issue with the shifter adapter install.

Upon initial installation, the one shift rod (the one by the trans and closest to the radiator) was hitting the trans and not allowing the trans to go into 1st and reverse.

I bought a longer bolt and used 5 washers underneath the cone washer to give me the additional travel I needed. I don't know if this was because I had already converted my stet up to heim and therefore my shift rod maybe was sitting a little closer to the trans than stock or what, but it worked fine with a few washers.

turbojerk
01-17-2013, 03:35 PM
What a POS!

I'll give you a wooden nickle for it!

Pat
01-17-2013, 04:44 PM
What a POS!

I'll give you a wood tickle for it!

Ugh, what?

turbojerk
01-17-2013, 04:47 PM
Nice try Pat!

I know I'm sexy as all hell, but I don't swing like that!

Pat
01-17-2013, 06:02 PM
Nice try Pat!

I know I'm sexy as all hell, but I don't swing like that!

Ha ha!

ScottD
01-17-2013, 06:21 PM
What a POS!

I'll give you a wood tickle for it!

Oh HELL no!

168glhs1986
01-17-2013, 07:28 PM
Troy's back! Dust that Whore off and drive to Indy.

ScottD
01-17-2013, 10:55 PM
Troy's back! Dust that Whore off

Mike I appreciate your enthusiasm but I can assure you I'm not interested in trading my GLHS for sexual favors with that whore Troy!

ScottD
02-09-2013, 01:16 PM
New shift knob insert. Much better than the worn original Momo knob.

cordes
02-09-2013, 02:42 PM
That looks great. Is that an L body knob, or are you using a later style shifter?

ScottD
02-09-2013, 05:18 PM
L-body knob!

ScottD
02-09-2013, 05:21 PM
I have this badge also. Right now I'm leaning towards putting it on the oil cap.

cordes
02-09-2013, 05:32 PM
It looks awesome on the oil cap. I would definitely put it on there.

ScottD
02-09-2013, 05:43 PM
I agree. The question is how. There isn't alot of meat to epoxy it to on the cap. I can get a later plastic cap through Rock Auto that's flat and has more surface area to adhere to. Also wondering what epoxy would work best in that kind of environment.

cordes
02-09-2013, 05:50 PM
I agree. The question is how. There isn't alot of meat to epoxy it to on the cap. I can get a later plastic cap through Rock Auto that's flat and has more surface area to adhere to. Also wondering what epoxy would work best in that kind of environment.

It shouldn't be too hard to track some down. IIRC Steve M. has posted up what brand he uses for port work. I would think that if it can hold up in the runners of the head it should do well on an oil cap.

---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:45 PM ----------

Here you go.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?16882-cylinder-head-expoxy&p=194455&viewfull=1#post194455

ScottD
02-09-2013, 07:52 PM
Thanks! Looks like that is only available in larger quantities though. I wonder how hot the oil cap actually gets, it probably doesn't rise to 200degrees.

cordes
02-09-2013, 08:04 PM
Thanks! Looks like that is only available in larger quantities though. I wonder how hot the oil cap actually gets, it probably doesn't rise to 200degrees.

I wouldn't think so. You can usually put your hand on the oil caps even when the VC is too hot to do so. I would think around 150-160*?

ScottD
02-10-2013, 12:17 PM
I'm thinking I can make something work in a small quantity. I will have to do some further investigation.

blk86trbo
02-10-2013, 07:13 PM
Not sure how I missed your thread Scott, but hats off to you and all the hard work you've put into this beauty! :hail:

jckrieger
02-10-2013, 07:29 PM
used the Omnipotent shifter bracket adapter.

http://www.omnipotentparts.com/product_detail.htm#Transmission Shifter

The Omnipotent kit kept me from cutting holes in the floor. It also allowed me to use the heim joint set up I'd already made for the 525. This kit is EXCELLENT and well worth the money.

When you installed the A555, what did you do for the dogbone? Did you use the one that came in the kit? If so, did you notice an increase in vibration from the engine? I installed this setup along with poly motor mounts at the same time in my GLHS and now my car rattles like crazy.

Oh, and nice job on the restoration! I wish I had sent mine to a body shop from the beginning!

ScottD
02-10-2013, 09:14 PM
Not sure how I missed your thread Scott, but hats off to you and all the hard work you've put into this beauty! :hail:

Thanks Paul. It's been a ton of work but worth it.


When you installed the A555, what did you do for the dogbone? Did you use the one that came in the kit? If so, did you notice an increase in vibration from the engine? I installed this setup along with poly motor mounts at the same time in my GLHS and now my car rattles like crazy.

Oh, and nice job on the restoration! I wish I had sent mine to a body shop from the beginning!

Do you have the dog bone in correctly? It could be -----eyed in there, it needs to be rotated in a certain direction so it is straight up and down. I am using the one in the kit, though I have rubber mounts in my car. I haven't driven it yet due to salt being on the roads, but moving it around the driveway/garage I didn't notice any significant vibration.

I do not have the patience for body work and paint. That's the two things I farmed out, paint/body and having an upholsterer do the seats.

turbojerk
02-11-2013, 09:25 AM
I agree. The question is how. There isn't alot of meat to epoxy it to on the cap. I can get a later plastic cap through Rock Auto that's flat and has more surface area to adhere to. Also wondering what epoxy would work best in that kind of environment.

Bring it to me... We've got this schitt at work that is off the hook...

ScottD
02-11-2013, 09:27 AM
Bring it to me... We've got this schitt at work that is off the hook...

Schweet!

ScottD
02-24-2013, 08:56 PM
Oil cap is done. Right now it is bare metal, I may paint that part silver. I like the contrast of the bare metal against the black of the cap emblem.

cordes
03-02-2013, 06:02 PM
That looks awesome. Nice work Scott.

black86glhs
03-02-2013, 09:32 PM
I agree, looks nice.

ScottD
03-03-2013, 11:01 AM
Thanks! Next step on the car is to charge the AC. Then it might be .... (gasp) done ... at least for now :-)

seahonk
06-22-2013, 07:02 AM
hello all I don't mean to jack this thread but I found this website by accident , long story short I have a few items for sale that I think you all would like from reading this post , a little about me I worked for Shelby industries in Whittier, calif from the start until it closed , I have met Mr carol Shelby many times , I was a line mechanic for Shelby industries from start until they closed , I r & r the heads on two cars a day , started with the Omni , fun times lol ok now for my thread jack offer , I found a few things I gathered from the days of working there and thought I would offer them to you guys the real fans of the Shelby cars , before I list them on eBay , nothing great just a hood badge a all metal key fob a hat or shirt pin , and a label that went on the dash , all these things were on my tool box and are in some what good shape , I am going to try and put some pics in here but if it don't work email me or send me a message ,http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/neils-pics/DSC02392-1.jpghttp://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/neils-pics/DSC02399.jpghttp://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/neils-pics/DSC02409.jpghttp://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/neils-pics/DSC02408.jpghttp://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/neils-pics/DSC02414.jpghttp://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/neils-pics/DSC02410.jpg

Saturn Five
12-06-2013, 11:41 PM
Before you put the headliner back in you might as well make the rest of the interior look nice.

The plastic panels in these cars tend to yellow and look terrible over the years if the car was kept in the sunlight for any length of time. The rear sail panels can get especially faded and nasty looking.

The miracle cure for this is SEM Warm Gray paint (15183).

I cleaned up the panels in my car using a little soap in warm water and a soft bristle brush. Then I let them dry overnight. The next day I painted with the paint. I put 2-3 light coats on followed by 2 light coats of Krylon clear coat to protect them.

This is an especially good thing to do with an 86 four door L body as 86s had one year only 2 piece door panels. The bottoms are vinyl which usually hold up, the top pieces are plastic which don't. Some SEM paint makes them look like brand new though. The door panel pieces were the only pieces of the interior that required masking, masking off the chrome strip by the window scraper and popping off the chrome piece that surrounds the door lock.

Here are some pictures of a finished door handle and upper door panel.

Once you're done painting you're ready to reinstall the headliner followed by the interior trim and you'll have an interior that looks new ... well if your seats are in good shape, which of course mine weren't.

I need to do the same thing.

Mikeywk
04-08-2015, 05:23 PM
Where can I find the material for the upholstery for the seats for my 86 GLHS and my silver interior GLH-T? Thanks!!!

Pat
04-08-2015, 05:51 PM
He had it done at a local upholstery shop. I believe they ordered the material for him.

Saturn Five
04-08-2015, 09:19 PM
Good Thread