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roachjuice
12-11-2010, 10:56 PM
well last April i thought i toasted the stock 196,xxx mile 2.2 in the the car but while i was taking the engine out the car all that happened was i popped the headgasket. i guess 24psi for a year and a half on a felpro was a bit too much lol. so friend of mine had a 2.5 bare block laying around that he donated along with a crank and t2 rods. all it needed was some pistons. remember i want cheap. so i call up cindy at fwd and ask if she still has some .040 over mahles. yep 3 sets. so i grab a set along with a ring set. so i have a little over 200 in the bottom end. i even reused the rod bearings. :D

so here are the specs on the car
8-8-88 2.5 common block .040 over w/cast mahle pistons
slightly ported 782 head with backcut valves
52mm tb ported intake
555 trans
t2/t3 clutch setup
turbonetics turbo .63 exhaust a/r stg 2 turbine with a 50 trim compressor
big fmic
87 lm with custom tune 3 bap map blah blah blah
other little stuff im sure im forgetting.

ive been collecting parts since april and it finally started tonight and moved under its own power. my first engine build ever and i was expecting something shittty to go wrong.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1qqBKku4Jw

more videos to come. its --- whipping season. :thumb:

roachjuice
12-18-2010, 01:23 AM
Well ----ing awesome. Maiden voyage went down the street to gas station to get air in a tire on the way back decided to boost it a bit like 10 lbs. Smoking the tires through second and it just died. Motor won't turn over. Not even by hand. Anybody wanting a glht cheap let me know. I'm done.

Spycker
12-18-2010, 01:44 AM
ill take the turbo

Juggy
12-20-2010, 10:57 AM
bummer.
i wonder what happened to lock up the motor

roachjuice
12-31-2010, 12:14 AM
i think maybe one of the main bearings went. dunno.

zkeifer
01-02-2011, 07:47 PM
im interested in the head if you are truely done but just remember its not a turbo dodge unless it breaks from time to time its the cost of making power

cordes
01-03-2011, 04:09 PM
You can't give up on a cheap as possible build. You just laugh and head off to the JY again. Those are the rules.

roachjuice
01-07-2011, 07:31 PM
ok well me and a friend went to kansas and picked up a supposed to be 2.2 turbo out of a 91 lebaron. lol yea right. it was an 89 t1 2.5. still has cross etching on the cylinder walls. i think im just gonna run it as it. my friend is getting the head. we picked the entire thing up for 150 bux. turns free and i took the oil pan off and everything looks normal. im taking the balance shafts out and just gonna run it with my top end. i think i was posting in anger when i said i was done. but hey i think we all do that sometimes. i just took a week off or so from and and thought about it. i dont have much money in it. i really love the car when its running. every other car ive had has been slower for more money. so screw it. ill keep it. im gonna finish taking the engine out tomorrow. i took the head off of the engine i built and the cylinder walls look fine and pistons look fine. i think i spun a main bearing. it sounded weird when i tried to start it before it let loose. like it sounded like normal then come to a hard to crank over spot then got past that point and turned normal then got to that spot again. lol. kinda hard to explain. oh well. as forrest gump says shyt happens. ill keep it posted and get some pics. i dont know why i dont post pics my wife is a professional photographer lol.

forcedfedmopar
01-07-2011, 10:34 PM
Glad to hear your gonna keep at it. I think most of us have been there, myself included! But trust me, one omni owner to the next, it is worth the fight to see the look on the vett owners face!

roachjuice
01-09-2011, 09:43 PM
Update: swapped the engine yesterday. Just need to button stuff up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/0bfa2b2e.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/b32888d7.jpg
Still has cross hatching on the cylinder walls.

thedon809
01-09-2011, 09:48 PM
Gonna tear down the other engine to see what happened?

roachjuice
01-10-2011, 12:27 AM
Yea this week sometime.

roachjuice
01-21-2011, 11:36 AM
got it going!!!!! drove it 30 miles today!!!! something isnt right with it. piggggg rich at idle and idling at like 1500rpm. maybe vac leak? dunno. runs good. 10psi of boost. nothing insane.

cordes
01-21-2011, 12:50 PM
Check the codes and vac lines first thing. Then double check the FP vs. injector size and both ign. and cam timing.

Spr-T-23
01-21-2011, 01:52 PM
i love builds like this. i got my t1 shadow for 450, then blew it up. got my vert shadow for 400, bought a motor for 100 bucks tb to oil pan. 950 into 2 dodges that dont run....sounds about right...

roachjuice
01-21-2011, 02:11 PM
Check the codes and vac lines first thing. Then double check the FP vs. injector size and both ign. and cam timing.
man the check engine light is on but not savingh ANY codes. 12 and 55. both normal. no clue. one thing in dont under stand in the tuning software is the "mask codes" thing. some are checked off. like do i need to uncheck them? never had this problem. but you can start it when its cold and it runs like dog ----. warms up a bit idles at 1500 and between 11.9 and 13.0 af
:confused2:

---------- Post added at 12:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 PM ----------

i think im gonna check timing when i get home. im at my parents still which is about 30 miles away

cordes
01-21-2011, 08:31 PM
man the check engine light is on but not savingh ANY codes. 12 and 55. both normal. no clue. one thing in dont under stand in the tuning software is the "mask codes" thing. some are checked off. like do i need to uncheck them? never had this problem. but you can start it when its cold and it runs like dog ----. warms up a bit idles at 1500 and between 11.9 and 13.0 af
:confused2:

---------- Post added at 12:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 PM ----------

i think im gonna check timing when i get home. im at my parents still which is about 30 miles away

What size injectors are you running? What cal?

roachjuice
01-21-2011, 08:44 PM
+40 which I think is 52pph. And turbonator v10. All I did was scale for injectors and 3 bar. That's it. I used the auto scale in the options. Only difference is this time I used the new mp tuner.

cordes
01-21-2011, 08:48 PM
I wonder if you have the 52s which flow closer to 60? Have you tried scaling the fuel down some more? Is it rich across the board like that or just when running at idle?

roachjuice
01-21-2011, 09:53 PM
I haven't really gotten on it. It's the same injectors from last time I ran it. It ran lean on idle with my 2.2. It may be my o2. I can't tell because it wont save codes. But I can try to scale down when I get home.

forcedfedmopar
01-21-2011, 11:59 PM
Glad to see you got her up and going! Did you have a chance to see what happened with the other engine?

roachjuice
01-22-2011, 12:01 AM
Holy ----. Ok I beat a 05+ gt 5 speed. On 10psi. 40-100. Yea yea I know I shouldn't be racing. But I had to beat his ---. Anyway so I decided i wanted to hear blow off valve. Well all of a sudden There was like 2psi of boost. The wastegate arm got caught on the coolant line for the turbo. So I took the vac line off the wastegate and holy ----. Does it ever move!! I haven't given it all it has. But I'll tell you it's a whole other car!! 15psi it likes. Spiked 20 and 3rd gear is useless!!! Ok so af is rich at full boost. And idle is way up. I don't think timing. Tune or o2 is my guess.

---------- Post added at 10:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 PM ----------

I'm thinking something to do with the rings. K just put them in there without touching them. Bearings look fine.

roachjuice
01-22-2011, 07:20 PM
Ok so woke up this morning to try and fix the rich problem. First thing I did was get v12 of turbonator and use mp tune to cal it. Well I flash a new chip, put it in and turn the key on and the fuel pump is going ape shyt turning on and off. I try this 5 times. So lucky I still have v8 of turbonator and I used dcal instead of mopar tune. Guess what it worked beautifully! Idle is decent and af is 16:1. No check engine light and it actually saved the cel! Still have to mess with wot tables. But mopartune seems not to be working out for me. I'm gonna keep it old school and run it that way. It's never failed me.

Directconnection
01-22-2011, 08:02 PM
i love builds like this. i got my t1 shadow for 450, then blew it up. got my vert shadow for 400, bought a motor for 100 bucks tb to oil pan. 950 into 2 dodges that dont run....sounds about right...

I certainly don't want to laugh and tell you both so.... because I truly like these cars soooo much. But when people cheap out on the MOST important parts of an engine, and wonder why they crap the bed soon afterwards, well.... lesson learned. You get what you paid for, right?

Taking a 22+ year old engine with 190,000 miles on it and re-using the original bearings combined with a different crank and rods that were never checked (roundness, size, taper, etc...) is almost always going to bite ya in the azz.
Not raggin' on ya... just wanting to see some people do the right thing so they won't have major frsutration down the road (and blame the "It's a crappy Dodge thing")

Spr-T-23
01-23-2011, 01:39 PM
oh no i know exactly what i did, it was a plan that fell apart. the t1 car wasnt sopposed to die untill i got the other motor in the vert. i blew up the turbo car and the vert. was far from running so i had to dig my jeep out and have 2 non running shadows in my driveway, i have a sense of humor about it, its funny.

roachjuice
03-02-2011, 10:58 PM
still running good. i have an oil pressure issue now. gonna check it out tonight or tomorrow.

roachjuice
03-03-2011, 02:18 PM
just swapped out the original stock 86 fuel pump and btw that sock was nasty. just installed the 255 and at the same boost level it went from 10:9 a/f to 10:0 lol yea we be moving some fuel now!!
stock pump just pulled out
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/8d8b9329.jpg
the sock
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/362624a4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/b2ac14e3.jpg
255 installed
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/cbf4b4c9.jpg
i didnt use this piece. didnt find it necessary
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/e664b17b.jpg
turned up the boost to 24psi and this thing SCREAMS!!! even at 10:7 af!!

forcedfedmopar
03-03-2011, 07:14 PM
so whats going on with the oil pressure? or are you not converned about it since your still out beatn the piss outta it? lol

roachjuice
03-03-2011, 07:41 PM
Lol not really. I don't hear knocking lol. I'm gonna hook a gauge to it and see whats going on.

roachjuice
03-06-2011, 12:18 AM
Replaced a front wheel bearing,cv axle and tie rod end today. Also I hooked up my power steering god I love it. I lost the o ring that went to the pressure line so I made my own. I got an injector o ring from an injector I had laying around and trimmed the edges all the way around it. No leaks!! I didn't think it would work but it's holding! Guys at the part store said that that type of o ring wouldn't hold up against that pressure? I'm like WTF? Apparently its holding. Changed the oil too after 1500 miles. Looked like crap. Threw some mobil clean 5000 non synthetic with a wix filter. That didn't solve my oil pressure issue I have under loads and highway. I think I'm just gonna have to pull the stupid pan and stick something in the bs hole. Sux.

cordes
03-06-2011, 12:44 AM
You tested the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge?

roachjuice
03-06-2011, 07:52 AM
No. I think all is good. There are 2 sensors on the oil feed thing on front of the motor. I popped the hood last night to find the little one unplugged? I don't know what that one is.

roachjuice
03-06-2011, 08:27 AM
I'll stop by the auto store on the way home from work and grab a cheap gauge

roachjuice
03-06-2011, 11:28 PM
Welli attempted to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge that my wifes father gave
Me. It's some old 80's gauge matches the car good. Brand new in the box. All went well and I forgot the fereal (sp?) nut on the gauge side of the plastic tubing. Oil in my car. Yey. So I took it out lol. It worked. But leaked oil. So tomorrow I have to go get another kit for it.

---------- Post added at 09:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:24 PM ----------

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/6e44c88c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/5bda63a0.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/e6b7ee36.jpg
On a brighter note I have 2 glht cars in my garage :D I decided to give the blue car to a close friend of mine. I got the car for nothing so I gave it to him. Im just storing it at my house for now till we get it going.

forcedfedmopar
03-07-2011, 02:50 PM
that was nice of you. and youll love having someone to run around terrorizing the streets with!

Reeves
03-07-2011, 03:21 PM
Changed the oil too after 1500 miles. Looked like crap. Threw some mobil clean 5000 non synthetic with a wix filter. That didn't solve my oil pressure issue I have under loads and highway. I think I'm just gonna have to pull the stupid pan and stick something in the bs hole. Sux.

Did you block the balance shaft oil feed hole when you removed the balance shafts?


No. I think all is good. There are 2 sensors on the oil feed thing on front of the motor. I popped the hood last night to find the little one unplugged? I don't know what that one is.

The little one is the idiot light in the dash. The big one is the gauge reading.

roachjuice
03-07-2011, 05:20 PM
that was nice of you. and youll love having someone to run around terrorizing the streets with!
Yea only thing I was gonna do to it was turn around and sell it or auto x setup.


Did you block the balance shaft oil feed hole when you removed the balance shafts?



The little one is the idiot light in the dash. The big one is the gauge reading. yea I jut did what Johnny at pb said to do. Oversize washer with some silicone and a bolt in a bolt hole. It seemed to block it. It's fine when it's cold. Seems once it warms up a bit then it drops. Im thinking this is what my random knock is under boost. Im running a 10:3 af at 20psi ad I get knock. While in boost the oil pressure will drop and also on the highway. 6.5qts of 5w30 wix oil filter. The only thing I can think of besides an oil pump problem is the bs hole. Which I took an extra dowl pin out of a block I have and I'm gonna stick that in there. I honestly wanna say that pressure is getting past the washer. Simon said if it was leaking then I wouldnt have pressure.

---------- Post added at 03:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:11 PM ----------

Maybe I have something in the pick up tube for the oil pump?

---------- Post added at 03:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:14 PM ----------

This morning on the way to work it was fine. The gauge stayed in the middle which I have no clue what psi it is because it's just lines lol. When it gets low im talking 3000 rpm on the highway and it's 2 bars up from the first big bar.

Reeves
03-07-2011, 05:21 PM
Im running a 10:3 af at 20psi ad I get knock. I honestly wanna say that pressure is getting past the washer. Simon said if it was leaking then I wouldnt have pressure.

---------- Post added at 03:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:11 PM ----------

Maybe I have something in the pick up tube for the oil pump?

What's your timing advance at 20psi? What is your initial timing?

Don't listen to Simon. LOL

If you end up needing a pump, this guy has some NOS Mopar units for sale :thumb:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?56576-Mopar-Oil-Pump-NIB-NOS&highlight=

cordes
03-07-2011, 05:21 PM
Yea only thing I was gonna do to it was turn around and sell it or auto x setup.

yea I jut did what Johnny at pb said to do. Oversize washer with some silicone and a bolt in a bolt hole. It seemed to block it. It's fine when it's cold. Seems once it warms up a bit then it drops. Im thinking this is what my random knock is under boost. Im running a 10:3 af at 20psi ad I get knock. While in boost the oil pressure will drop and also on the highway. 6.5qts of 5w30 wix oil filter. The only thing I can think of besides an oil pump problem is the bs hole. Which I took an extra dowl pin out of a block I have and I'm gonna stick that in there. I honestly wanna say that pressure is getting past the washer. Simon said if it was leaking then I wouldnt have pressure.

---------- Post added at 03:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:11 PM ----------

Maybe I have something in the pick up tube for the oil pump?

---------- Post added at 03:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:14 PM ----------

This morning on the way to work it was fine. The gauge stayed in the middle which I have no clue what psi it is because it's just lines lol. When it gets low im talking 3000 rpm on the highway and it's 2 bars up from the first big bar.

I wouldn't rule out a restriction. It allows for enough flow at lower RPMs, but becomes too much for the pump to overcome at higher engine speeds?

roachjuice
03-07-2011, 05:27 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evZWc0ajan8&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Video of it being normal to me.

Reeves
03-07-2011, 05:31 PM
That looks about right.

roachjuice
03-07-2011, 07:54 PM
Ok buddy of mine went to the salvage for me and got a 2.2 common oil pan and pick up for me. What dipstick do I use?

cordes
03-07-2011, 08:27 PM
Ok buddy of mine went to the salvage for me and got a 2.2 common oil pan and pick up for me. What dipstick do I use?

The 2.2 one. I don't recall if the pickup tube is different though.

roachjuice
03-07-2011, 08:59 PM
Yea he got the tube.

cordes
03-07-2011, 09:00 PM
Yea he got the tube.

You guys should be all set then.

roachjuice
03-07-2011, 11:31 PM
Ok so I took the pan down and I took my bolt and washer I had on the bs hole. Oil came out when I loosened it. So it was sealed. I stuck a dowl with silicone in there and put my washer bolt combo back on it. Tightened the piss out of it. Decided to look at the old pick up tube yea. It was blocked full of old dry oil. I clean it all out and put it back in. I didn't install the 2.2 common block pan. Because I didn't have anything to cut the notch out where that small bolt is because I'm running the old style waterpump. So took it for a spin no mechanical aftermarket gauge yet. Oh and I opened up the pickup hole. Immediately better oil pressure. Cruising and everything but under wot it drops. And it will drop so bad it causes knock. Let off and oil pressure comes back up. WTF.

cordes
03-07-2011, 11:35 PM
Ok so I took the pan down and I took my bolt and washer I had on the bs hole. Oil came out when I loosened it. So it was sealed. I stuck a dowl with silicone in there and put my washer bolt combo back on it. Tightened the piss out of it. Decided to look at the old pick up tube yea. It was blocked full of old dry oil. I clean it all out and put it back in. I didn't install the 2.2 common block pan. Because I didn't have anything to cut the notch out where that small bolt is because I'm running the old style waterpump. So took it for a spin no mechanical aftermarket gauge yet. Oh and I opened up the pickup hole. Immediately better oil pressure. Cruising and everything but under wot it drops. And it will drop so bad it causes knock. Let off and oil pressure comes back up. WTF.

I would pull the oil pump and inspect it. At this point that's almost certainly the problem IMO.

roachjuice
03-08-2011, 12:13 AM
Alright. It seems fine while cruising and high rpm. I'm gonna test one more thing tomorrow. I think it may be sloshing away from the pickup. So I'm gonna wot it in 4th from 60 and see if it's better or worse. I can sit in the garage and rev it and it goes up and down normal. I can now cruise on the highway and it stays normal. My wot runs were 2nd and 3rd. They squat pretty bad lol.

roachjuice
03-08-2011, 12:10 PM
What's your timing advance at 20psi? What is your initial timing?

Don't listen to Simon. LOL

If you end up needing a pump, this guy has some NOS Mopar units for sale :thumb:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?56576-Mopar-Oil-Pump-NIB-NOS&highlight= lol I just clicked on the link. Nice. My timing I what ever turbonator v8 is. I haven't touched it. Base is 12.

roachjuice
03-08-2011, 08:48 PM
What are some signs of failing oil pump?

Reeves
03-09-2011, 10:59 AM
What are some signs of failing oil pump?

No oil pressure.

roachjuice
03-09-2011, 12:07 PM
So it wouldn't go up when cold and down when warm? When it's warm it depends. It can be up or down. This morning it was mostly down. But came up sometimes. It's weird. I'm running out of ideas.

---------- Post added at 10:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:05 AM ----------

I have an extra known good oil pump. I may try that. I know diddly shyt about oil pumps. What do they look like when bad? What am I looking for when I take it out?

Reeves
03-09-2011, 12:24 PM
So it wouldn't go up when cold and down when warm? When it's warm it depends. It can be up or down. This morning it was mostly down. But came up sometimes. It's weird. I'm running out of ideas.

---------- Post added at 10:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:05 AM ----------

I have an extra known good oil pump. I may try that. I know diddly shyt about oil pumps. What do they look like when bad? What am I looking for when I take it out?

I was being a smartazz in the above comment. LOL.

Take the pump out and then take it apart. There should be 4 bolts that hold it together. The rotor should now slide out. MAKE SURE YOU NOTE WHICH WAY IT COMES OUT! You don't want to put it back in upside down. There should be a taper on the outer edge of one side of the rotor that you can use to remember which way it came out. Or just mark it before you take it out.

Now, inspect the I.D. and the O.D. of the rotor very carefully. How gouged up is it? IF gouged up, replace the pump. If not gouged up, then check the vane in the other pump half. Are they gouged up?

Now clean everything real good and put the rotor back in DRY (no oil). How much slop does it have when you shake it around?

The other thing that can be boogered up is the relief valve. To check it, you have to pull the cotter pin, then pull the freeze plug, then the spring will come flying out at you. On the other side of the spring is the relief valve. The only problem is when you check the relief valve, you need a new freeze plug generally. you can get a new spring and cap here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4286571/

Also, while you have the pump out, inspect the drive teeth very carefully to see if they are getting "razor'd" If so, replace pump and then check the intermediate shaft teeth as well.

roachjuice
03-09-2011, 06:19 PM
Lol i figured that. Alright. I took the one out of my old 2.2 block because I know it had good oil pressure. I can see the rotor from the pick up side an it seems good. No slop when I try to turn it. Drive looks good. Tackle it in about and hour. See what's up.

roachjuice
03-09-2011, 08:24 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/126df745.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/ef6e2d31.jpg
What cha think?

Reeves
03-10-2011, 01:18 PM
Kinda hard to tell from the pics. Did you slide the rotor out and have a real good look at it?

roachjuice
03-10-2011, 04:35 PM
No I couldn't slide it out. I'm running out of ideas. I'm gonna hook up a mechanical gauge and see what's up. The only other thing I can think of is slosh. Or too much vtec.

Reeves
03-10-2011, 04:56 PM
No I couldn't slide it out. I'm running out of ideas. I'm gonna hook up a mechanical gauge and see what's up. The only other thing I can think of is slosh. Or too much vtec.

It should have slid right out. IF you turned it upside down, it should have fell out.

So did you change the pump?

roachjuice
03-10-2011, 05:18 PM
Yea I changed the pump. Not as bad but it still did it. Someone suggested the block orifice could be missing? I changed the sending unit too.

Reeves
03-10-2011, 05:51 PM
Yea I changed the pump. Not as bad but it still did it. Someone suggested the block orifice could be missing? I changed the sending unit too.

Is the block an orginal roller cam block? If so, it should have the orfice. Unless it's been rebuilt and the machine shop forgot to put it back in.

Did you replace the BIG sending unit? The little one is just for the idiot light.

roachjuice
03-10-2011, 06:00 PM
Yes I replaced the big one. I dont think it's been rebuilt. Not to my knowledge. It's an 89 block. Yea it's roller.

roachjuice
03-10-2011, 06:47 PM
Ok ----ing weird. Now its normal. I hooked the gauge up. 60psi cold. Warm it idles around 10-12psi Matches rpm. Gonna go on the highway in a bit. No low pressure yet. Maybe the car just wanted a gauge. I'll post up in a bit.

roachjuice
03-10-2011, 08:42 PM
Still good.

cordes
03-10-2011, 08:45 PM
Glad to hear you got it fixed or that it was never a problem. I guess you'll find out if the knocking noise goes away.

roachjuice
03-10-2011, 09:15 PM
Glad to hear you got it fixed or that it was never a problem. I guess you'll find out if the knocking noise goes away.
never a knocking noise to my ear. but my cel would flash as i have it set up to flash when it sees knock.

cordes
03-10-2011, 09:17 PM
never a knocking noise to my ear. but my cel would flash as i have it set up to flash when it sees knock.

I see now. I thought you were saying that the motor was knocking. I was pretty impressed it kept together.

roachjuice
03-10-2011, 09:30 PM
lol yea. this car has givin 100 percent back.

cordes
03-10-2011, 09:36 PM
It's like Charlie Sheen.

"My success rate is 100%. Do the math."

roachjuice
03-10-2011, 11:19 PM
lol thats sig worthy.

roachjuice
03-12-2011, 12:19 PM
took some pix today.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/pinkbling.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/pinkbackground2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/pinkbackground.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/grill2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/grill.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/front.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/engine3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/engine.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/character.jpg

cordes
03-12-2011, 12:24 PM
Looking good. Not bad at all for a super cheap build.

roachjuice
03-12-2011, 12:32 PM
yes that oil jug is my catch can :D

---------- Post added at 10:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:31 AM ----------


Looking good. Not bad at all for a super cheap build.
thanks man. im uploading more. hang tight.

roachjuice
03-12-2011, 12:58 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/valvecover.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/side.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/pinkpanther.jpg

roachjuice
03-12-2011, 01:09 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/valvecover2.jpg

roachjuice
03-17-2011, 05:56 PM
Shimmed the wastegate today. Two headbolt washers under each side wheret the bolts go. Spikes 20 holds 19. Small can wastegate too.

roachjuice
05-28-2011, 05:27 PM
Figured I'd update this. It's Been hectic the last 2 months. Started a new job with different hours working 60hrs a week. Anyway I painted the Omni finally. I think it looks decent for being sprayed with a harbor freight gun and in a dirty garage.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/2b857602.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/584f8167.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/dc28044d.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/7f722ac4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/177cf1fd.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/7d3dfc26.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/a8eb6b89.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/fedaad62.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/5d3686e0.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/d23c23df.jpg

I have to respray the hood. It didn't turn out well. Dunno why. Now I can really see all the dents lol.

cordes
05-28-2011, 09:59 PM
That's awesome! How much do you have into the paint if you don't mind my asking?

roachjuice
05-28-2011, 11:20 PM
I got the paint for free through my old job. The paint rep gave me a sample. Which so happen to be one gallon lol. And. Some primer also. I made the paint booth with plastic you cover furniture with when painting interior of a house and lined my garage with it. Paint gun was from harbor freight. 14 dollars. Honestly it's one of the best guns Ive sprayed. I'm a painter by profession. I paint aircraft parts now. I have a 400 dollar sata 3000 gravity feed at work and the harbor freight gun sprays just as well I was kinda shocked. I actually use it ay work!! But the harbor freight gun looks like an older model sata lol. About 75 in materials honestly. Took me all day to prep and paint it.

---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:19 PM ----------

You can get a gallon of black for around 125 I think. It took a half gallon of paint to do the entire car with 3 coats of single stage paint.

cordes
05-29-2011, 12:25 AM
I got the paint for free through my old job. The paint rep gave me a sample. Which so happen to be one gallon lol. And. Some primer also. I made the paint booth with plastic you cover furniture with when painting interior of a house and lined my garage with it. Paint gun was from harbor freight. 14 dollars. Honestly it's one of the best guns Ive sprayed. I'm a painter by profession. I paint aircraft parts now. I have a 400 dollar sata 3000 gravity feed at work and the harbor freight gun sprays just as well I was kinda shocked. I actually use it ay work!! But the harbor freight gun looks like an older model sata lol. About 75 in materials honestly. Took me all day to prep and paint it.

---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:19 PM ----------

You can get a gallon of black for around 125 I think. It took a half gallon of paint to do the entire car with 3 coats of single stage paint.

Thanks for the info. Glad to hear you got most everything for free. That always helps out for sure.

You're not the first person I've heard say that the HF spray guns are darn good. That's the route I planed on going when I eventually do a car.

roachjuice
05-29-2011, 01:24 AM
Yea I even went to the local recycle center to get newspaper for masking paper lol. Yea I highly recommend the hf gun. Def worth every penny.

roachjuice
10-17-2011, 10:32 PM
Figured I'd update this. Some people know I broke a ring land on #4 piston about a month ago. Sold the 50 trim and went back to a stock Garrett with a ported exhaust manifold. Got some used 2.5 pistons from forced fed mopar and slapped one in. I fired it up today for the first time in about a month. Sounded great. No miss anymore! Its amazing the sound difference between a stock turbo and a 50 trim with a stage 2 wheel and .63 housing! The stocker seems to just spool like crazy with the 2.5 and ported exhaust manifold. I'll find out soon enough. It's idling weird now. Like real low. 600rpm. I thought it was the 52mm tb I installed so I switched back to the 48 I've been running for 4 years and it still does it. Maybe ill try the ais relearn. Timing is dead on. Haven't driven it yet. Gotta fix a pinched oil pan gasket (grrrrr). Plus it's gonna storm tomorrow. On a side note a friend from Joplin stopped by to show me his new toy his old one got totaled in the Joplin tornado. Galant vr-4 :(. He bought a 88 rx-7 with a cammed ls1 and 6 speed installed. It just looked so right sitting in there. Amazing sound. Anyway he gave me some 205/50/15 autocross slicks that have 2 sessions on them for free. So hopefully I'll go get a pass in before the track shuts Down for good.

forcedfedmopar
10-18-2011, 01:19 PM
why did you go to a smaller turbo?>

roachjuice
10-18-2011, 03:43 PM
that 50 trim was a tad too big for my taste. i went 14.0@104 with a 50 trim. i went 14.2@102 with the stock garrett. not worth it. i think a super 60 would have been better.

roachjuice
10-18-2011, 07:53 PM
I think I can go faster or just as fast with a stock turbo. Guess I wont know. Track closes for good this weekend. :( hey atleast the car is running and driving now!! Haven't boosted it yet. I did hit the two step for a split second. Builds good boost!! I'll have to start a project log for my blue glht. Should have it going by the end of this year or beginning of next. I have a complete engine and head and manifolds. Just need head gasket set and some bolts. Oh and to rebuild the turbo. Oh and a computer.

turbovanmanČ
10-18-2011, 07:57 PM
that 50 trim was a tad too big for my taste. i went 14.0@104 with a 50 trim. i went 14.2@102 with the stock garrett. not worth it. i think a super 60 would have been better.

What boost?

The 50 trim will go faster, hands down. Look at Warrens car, almost running 9's with a 50 trim, that won't happen with a stock garrett, :eyebrows:

roachjuice
10-18-2011, 09:23 PM
Lol I don't wanna go 9's. I'm running a stock head. It just seemed a little too big for a stock engine. It hauled --- on the top end. Lost bottom end. I think my next turbo will be a super 60. People have run 12's on a stock Garrett. I'd be happy with a low 13. 14.0@104 is on 20-23psi on the 50 trim and a 2 1/2 swing valve and the 2.5. The 14.2@102 was like 22-24psi on a stock Garrett with a 2 1/4 swing valve and a 2.2. I have a 2 1/2 swing valve on it now. Along with a hogged out exhaust manifold. it should be just as fast or faster now. I figure id tap the Garrett out at 106-108mph in the 1/4. I know the 50 had more potential. I think the Garrett is a better choice at this point. I don't know if it was the stage 2 turbine wheel that really killed the bottom end punch or what.

forcedfedmopar
10-18-2011, 10:10 PM
I took my stock garrett into the 12s on my 2.5 glht. the super 60 into the 11s. this winter i will go even bigger (possibly 50 trim) and try for low 11s or 10s.

roachjuice
10-18-2011, 10:22 PM
What boost were you running with the stocker?

forcedfedmopar
10-19-2011, 12:24 AM
ive never run over 24 psi at the track

turbovanmanČ
10-19-2011, 01:54 AM
Lol I don't wanna go 9's. I'm running a stock head. It just seemed a little too big for a stock engine. It hauled --- on the top end. Lost bottom end. I think my next turbo will be a super 60. People have run 12's on a stock Garrett. I'd be happy with a low 13. 14.0@104 is on 20-23psi on the 50 trim and a 2 1/2 swing valve and the 2.5. The 14.2@102 was like 22-24psi on a stock Garrett with a 2 1/4 swing valve and a 2.2. I have a 2 1/2 swing valve on it now. Along with a hogged out exhaust manifold. it should be just as fast or faster now. I figure id tap the Garrett out at 106-108mph in the 1/4. I know the 50 had more potential. I think the Garrett is a better choice at this point. I don't know if it was the stage 2 turbine wheel that really killed the bottom end punch or what.

Stage II does move the powerband up a bit but shouldn't be that noticeable per say, unless you like instant boost. What were you using for boost control?

Super60 or a 46 trim T3/T4 will keep your instant boost and get you easily into the 12's, :nod:

roachjuice
10-19-2011, 05:25 AM
ive never run over 24 psi at the track

I remember my old setup never really saw a gain over 24-25 psi on a stock Garrett.

Simon.
I'm using a manual boost controller with a shimmed small can. I honestly think that it was slow at the track because it lagged till I hit 3rd. I got like 6psi in 1st then 13-15psi in second then full boost in 3rd. Gearing too short to get boost up. I think it had a 106-108 trap in it because I've ran my buddies cars. 06 gto 6 speed with bolt ons and a 10 camaro SS 6 speed both from a roll and was dead even with them from 50-120. Both those cars trap 108. The car had awesome top end for an 8 valve. Just killed the bottom. I think the stage 1 wheel 50 trim I just sold would have been a better choice. I'll see how the stock Garrett does on a 2.5.

cordes
10-19-2011, 03:51 PM
The autocross slicks probably won't be that great for the straight line stuff. They have a really hard sidewall which is great for turning, but horrible for absorbing the shock of a launch. My DOT legal autocross slicks can get the car up on two wheels in a turn with no problem, but can't hook at the track for anything.

roachjuice
10-19-2011, 06:28 PM
Hmmm. I would figure they would act like dr's kinda. I can always use them on the blue car for auto x

cordes
10-20-2011, 05:13 PM
Hmmm. I would figure they would act like dr's kinda. I can always use them on the blue car for auto x

The sidewalls on the autocross tires are rock hard. The DRs are very soft.

roachjuice
11-30-2011, 12:41 AM
Dropped off my injectors today to get them cleaned and flow matched (if they are real off from each other) local guy doing it pretty cheap. Hopefully I'll get them back by Friday. See if it helped any.

roachjuice
11-30-2011, 01:51 PM
just got off the phone with evenflow solutions. my injectors are within 1% of each other the way i brought them in. they didnt need cleaning. they all flowed 52.5 lbs. guess that is a good sign. he put new basket filters in them and a new o ring set and i should go pick them up asap. im getting a flow chart with them also. 25 bux for all 4. not to shabby. guess the missing when its cold is its running way rich and has something to do with the tune.

forcedfedmopar
11-30-2011, 02:16 PM
make sure you check your coolant temp sensor.

roachjuice
11-30-2011, 02:49 PM
Will do.

roachjuice
11-30-2011, 06:54 PM
He quoted me wrong. They are 54.2lb injectors :). 25 bux to flow them and new o rings. Great guy to deal with.

roachjuice
12-01-2011, 12:46 AM
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Evenflow-Solutions/229085240490804

cordes
12-01-2011, 01:40 AM
He quoted me wrong. They are 54.2lb injectors :). 25 bux to flow them and new o rings. Great guy to deal with.

That's a great deal. Really nice to know the exact flow rate too. That can only help with tuning.

roachjuice
12-01-2011, 08:22 AM
Yea I'm glad they are all the same or pretty close. He said he would have never thought that those injectors would spray that nice lol. He o ringed them, flowed them and sonic cleaned the outside. He said they didn't need to be cleaned so there was no point.

Dony409
12-01-2011, 01:40 PM
I really like to see that I'm not the only person who doesn't have much money but tries their best to put together something awesome. I bought a 86 Daytona CS that was absolutely mint exept for the guy who owned it before me managed to smash the back window and knock the bondo off one of the fenders (that's right my one fenders a bit bondoey :P) but it also had a rod knock but we still drove it 50km home and then another 30km very close to home :P it now has a stock 85 engine in it and tII manifolds on it along with turbo ect in total for the motor car electronics and the back window I have $380 into the car! I am very thankful people like katlaw helped out so much (he gave me the motor 107xxx km on it) and scotts who is going to help me burn the proper cal ect for it
This is the link to my album of mopars
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1276618239713.2037109.1357694077&l=3960f77a62&type=1

roachjuice
12-01-2011, 01:48 PM
I really like to see that I'm not the only person who doesn't have much money but tries their best to put together something awesome. I bought a 86 Daytona CS that was absolutely mint exept for the guy who owned it before me managed to smash the back window and knock the bondo off one of the fenders (that's right my one fenders a bit bondoey :P) but it also had a rod knock but we still drove it 50km home and then another 30km very close to home :P it now has a stock 85 engine in it and tII manifolds on it along with turbo ect in total for the motor car electronics and the back window I have $380 into the car! I am very thankful people like katlaw helped out so much (he gave me the motor 107xxx km on it) and scotts who is going to help me burn the proper cal ect for it thats what this community is all about. one of the main reasons i love these cars is because the people on here are awesome. try to get the same from a mustang or camaro forum. you wont.

roachjuice
01-28-2012, 07:27 PM
Update. Ive been driving the car for a little while now. Car runs excellent!! It seems like it's faster now than with the 50 trim I had on there. I'm running a stock Garrett with a shimmed small can waste gate, 2.5in swing valve and a ported exhaust manifold. I was running 20psi to see what it liked. Cranked it to 25psi today. It spins halfway through third from a 40 roll. 10.5 degrees total timing so far. 10.3 afr on the upper rpm (4600+). Can't wait to get it to the track!! Still running a used piston and ring set I got from rob m on here and reused my rod bearings. Gonna swap those out this spring.

cordes
01-29-2012, 02:24 PM
Thanks for the update. I bet that thing screams at 25PSI. The boost must be nearly instantaneous with the stock turbo hanging on a 2.5. What IC are you running? What are temps in your hood right now? That's a ton of boost for pump gas out of a stock turbo.

roachjuice
01-29-2012, 05:01 PM
Thanks for the update. I bet that thing screams at 25PSI. The boost must be nearly instantaneous with the stock turbo hanging on a 2.5. What IC are you running? What are temps in your hood right now? That's a ton of boost for pump gas out of a stock turbo.

Yea its lots funner with a stocker. I'm still running that eBay same side in and out intercooler. I'm not getting any knock so I assume it's ok lol. Temps dunno. Coolant temps are normal. Dunno about intake temps. I've ran that amount of boost on a stock turbo before without an issue on the old 2.2 setup.

forcedfedmopar
01-29-2012, 10:04 PM
Thanks for the update. I bet that thing screams at 25PSI. The boost must be nearly instantaneous with the stock turbo hanging on a 2.5. What IC are you running? What are temps in your hood right now? That's a ton of boost for pump gas out of a stock turbo.

on my 2.5 t2 turbo in my omni i was hitting 29psi on pump gas with no knock....stage 5 cal from FWD.

cordes
01-29-2012, 10:10 PM
on my 2.5 t2 turbo in my omni i was hitting 29psi on pump gas with no knock....stage 5 cal from FWD.

That's impressive. My Shadow routinely ran 22PSI on a FWD cal, but it was pulling a ton of timing due to the crazy amount of ignition timing in the cal.

roachjuice
01-29-2012, 10:31 PM
Yea I've got 4 cals on a chip right now. All the same except total timing. I've got one more degree I'm gonna try. 11.5. It's at 10.5 total right now.

cordes
01-29-2012, 10:46 PM
That's great. It looks like you're doing some very prudent tuning. Are you using one of Rob's four plays?

roachjuice
01-30-2012, 12:56 AM
Yep. One of robs fourplays. Gonna lean it up a little and stick with the 10.5 total timing for now. It ramps up a little bit past 4500rpm. I have a little tapping that it sounds like it's coming from the top end that i noticed when I pulled in my driveway. But the knock light isn't picking it up. Maybe a lifter? I'll check it out this week sometime.

cordes
01-31-2012, 06:23 PM
Yep. One of robs fourplays. Gonna lean it up a little and stick with the 10.5 total timing for now. It ramps up a little bit past 4500rpm. I have a little tapping that it sounds like it's coming from the top end that i noticed when I pulled in my driveway. But the knock light isn't picking it up. Maybe a lifter? I'll check it out this week sometime.

It certainly could be lifters. It wouldn't be the first time I've heard them do that, especially after a hard run.

roachjuice
01-31-2012, 07:41 PM
Well I popped the valve cover off. I can wiggle some rocker arms. I checked some lifters and they all seem solid. Maybe the rockers making noise?

roachjuice
02-18-2012, 08:40 PM
Well I messed something up. Again. Kinda tired of dealing with the 2.5 I'm thinking about 2.4 swapping it. Stratus engine with some srt rods and pistons. Srt head. Stock srt turbo. Anyone know if I can run a socketed lm on one? Maybe mount the dizzy to the head? Or am I just dreaming?

forcedfedmopar
02-18-2012, 09:22 PM
what happened? i know the 2.5 is a strong motor. look at my car. Still chugging along. tune screwed up?

roachjuice
02-18-2012, 11:37 PM
I dunno. The tune is dead nuts on. No knock. 11:1 afr. It's idling rough and smoke coming from under the hood.

forcedfedmopar
02-18-2012, 11:51 PM
lol, did you look? maybe you blew your vac line to the pcv system and got oil everywhere? Hows vacuum at idle and other drivability?

roachjuice
02-19-2012, 12:16 AM
It's low on power. Vac is 20 at idle. No vac line is blown. It's got more blow by than usual.

moparman76_69
02-19-2012, 02:13 PM
Anyone know if I can run a socketed lm on one? Maybe mount the dizzy to the head? Or am I just dreaming?

Yes. Yes. Maybe?

roachjuice
02-19-2012, 03:09 PM
I bought a hybrid 2.5... Forged pisons. Ported head. So regardless I'm taking the motor out.

roachjuice
02-20-2012, 07:54 AM
What would be a good turbo for a dohc 2.5 hybrid? I was thinking something along the lines of a holset. Maybe a 50 trim. It's dbbmini's old engine. Just needs one venolia (has a chip in a piston) and some honing on that cylinder. Honestly the only reason I'm buying this is because it's cheap and has forged pistons and I'm tired of messing with old used engines with unknown mileage lol. This one has maybe 3000 miles on it.

Force Fed Mopar
02-20-2012, 08:37 AM
I'd run the 50 on it. Holset is too laggy for a street car.

moparman76_69
02-20-2012, 08:54 AM
I'd run the 50 on it. The wrong Holset is too laggy for a street car.

Find the right holset and it won't be so bad. Look at either a HY35 or HX30. If it is more strip than street supposedly the DOHC likes the HX35.

roachjuice
02-20-2012, 10:32 AM
Mainly a street car. Occasionally strip. You know how it goes lol. I may find a holset. If I could get a good deal on a stock srt turbofold then id run one of those. Dunno if that would be way too small or not. I know the srt can do somewhere around 300whp with the stock turbo still attached. Now I honestly dont know how the hybrid compares to it horse power wise.

Keito
02-20-2012, 12:06 PM
I got an HY35 with the 9cm turbine housing, it's just a smidge larger than a .63, so
it shouldn't be too bad. This is on a heavily ported 8 valve with larger valves.

roachjuice
02-20-2012, 12:42 PM
I had one before but I never installed it on my car. I sold it to go to a 50 trim. It looked a hair bigger than that 50 trim. Whats it like on that 8v?

roachjuice
02-29-2012, 06:23 AM
Pulled the head today. Coolant was a red mud color. Wtf? Turbo has in and out shaft play now. Didn't smack the housings yet I got lucky on that. Getting it ready for the 16v setup.

Force Fed Mopar
02-29-2012, 09:55 AM
You didn't mix orange and green coolant did you? :p

roachjuice
02-29-2012, 10:33 AM
You didn't mix orange and green coolant did you? :p lol no. it looks like rust or something. first time i had the head off it looked fine. dunno. im gonna flush the radiator real good before i run the new motor.

Keito
02-29-2012, 11:34 AM
Someone use some well water?

moparman76_69
02-29-2012, 12:51 PM
Was the turbo fresh when you last checked it? After the thrust bearing breaks in you'll get some side to side, but you have to remember that it rides on a layer of oil and won't be as sloppy with oil pressure.

roachjuice
02-29-2012, 01:42 PM
Was the turbo fresh when you last checked it? After the thrust bearing breaks in you'll get some side to side, but you have to remember that it rides on a layer of oil and won't be as sloppy with oil pressure. no it wasnt fresh. i was a 30 dollar t1 pull off from the salvage. it does have a rebuild tag from air research on it. all i did was put my t2 compressor housing and 2.5in swingvalve on it and run it. ill pull the swingvalve tonight and see if it has oil in the turbine housing. it still spins freely. it boosted fine and never made any weird howling noises or anything lol. boosted 25psi just fine. its sold to a local guy now who has my old blue omni. i told him i would rebuild it if i were him. see i dont know if that smoke was from the engine or from the turbo. but when i went into decel from giving it a little boost it would blow out blue smoke. all the pistons look great. from the top. no i didnt use well water lol. it sure looks like it though! ill have to take a picture. the head gasket was fine also. i think that one piston was hurt already and it just finished off while in boost. oh well. the 16v project starts this weekend. im picking up the engine and all the accessories friday or saturday. he has a turbo also. but i dont wanna fork over 800+ dollars for a a GT28r turbo. ill stick with a holset. im in the process of looking now for a deal on a hx35,hy35,he351 or he341. what ever comes to the plate that is a good deal ill just run that. i was leaning toward the hy35 because i truly believe you can always go faster on too small of a turbo than too big of a turbo. im sure the hx53 will be fine. dsm guys are getting full boost by 3300rpm with them.

speedfreek500
02-29-2012, 06:07 PM
Wow there's 3 of us now doing a holset swaps in omni's! I wonder who will be the quickest?

forcedfedmopar
02-29-2012, 11:07 PM
Wow there's 3 of us now doing a holset swaps in omni's! I wonder who will be the quickest?

you will

speedfreek500
03-01-2012, 12:33 AM
you will

Lol not sure about that, Rj seams to be pretty good with the D-cal and tuning stuff....... If he does get this new build up and running it will be a monster for sure.

roachjuice
03-03-2012, 06:53 PM
Picked this up today.

tryingbe
03-03-2012, 07:28 PM
So, cheap as cheap build turned out to be not so cheap after all.

roachjuice
03-03-2012, 08:03 PM
Oh no it's still cheap. I sold my 8v head,manifolds,injectors and turbo for 300. That covered the cost of this setup. :) needs the head assembled because he ported it a little more. Needs one venolia and one ring. Head gasket and I'm good to go. Oh and a turbo. In the end it should be awesome.

omni_840
03-03-2012, 08:24 PM
Nice score! So will that header fit under the hood/firewall?

roachjuice
03-03-2012, 08:37 PM
Nice score! So will that header fit under the hood/firewall?

I have a 2.5 still in the car. I'm gonna lay the head on it to check clearance. I think it will clear the fire wall. Dunno about the hood lol. The manifold doesn't go any further than the power steering goes as far as firewall clearance. But I'll check.

Force Fed Mopar
03-03-2012, 10:38 PM
If not, sell it to me :D

roachjuice
03-04-2012, 12:46 AM
If not, sell it to me :D

What u gonna use it for? :D

Force Fed Mopar
03-04-2012, 09:23 AM
What u gonna use it for? :D

The Daytona, it's getting a 2.4 swap :eyebrows:

roachjuice
03-04-2012, 12:20 PM
The Daytona, it's getting a 2.4 swap :eyebrows:

Oooooooooh

roachjuice
03-04-2012, 01:38 PM
Looks like the header will clear. I dunno about the intake manifold yet.

roachjuice
03-05-2012, 12:49 AM
You guys think the 85# injectors are too big? Shooting for around 325-350whp.

cordes
03-05-2012, 12:57 AM
You guys think the 85# injectors are too big? Shooting for around 325-350whp.

I don't think so at all. It should give you some nice head room on the injector duty cycle and plenty of people have run 72s with a great idle. I doubt that 85s will be that much different.

roachjuice
03-05-2012, 03:04 PM
Sweet. Good to know.

Pat
03-05-2012, 04:03 PM
You guys think the 85# injectors are too big? Shooting for around 325-350whp.

Define too big...you don't need 85's for the whp you're looking for. For that power level, you could use 52's and be just fine

roachjuice
03-05-2012, 04:05 PM
Define too big...you don't need 85's for the whp you're looking for. For that power level, you could use 52's and be just fine i figured that. i was wanting to know because i may sell the big injectors and get some +40's or something. since i sold my last set. i think those 85's are good for like 500whp or something.

Reeves
03-05-2012, 04:20 PM
I'd most likely stick with the big one's. You can tune them for what you want/need and you'll have PLENTY of head room even with your pressure lower (like 40 or 45 psi).

OmniLuvr
03-05-2012, 04:33 PM
or run e85 ;)

cordes
03-05-2012, 05:05 PM
I'd most likely stick with the big one's. You can tune them for what you want/need and you'll have PLENTY of head room even with your pressure lower (like 40 or 45 psi).

The headroom at the lower pressures is the key reason I like the larger injectors.

roachjuice
03-05-2012, 06:28 PM
I'd most likely stick with the big one's. You can tune them for what you want/need and you'll have PLENTY of head room even with your pressure lower (like 40 or 45 psi). yea i never though about lowering the fp. that hybrid setup came with an afpr. so i would scale for injectors say 55lbs injectors in the cal and i would lower the fp to compensate for it is the way im understanding it. in turn it would allow me to take some strain off the fuel system. im just using 55lbs as an example.


or run e85 ;) corn fed!!

cordes
03-05-2012, 06:38 PM
yea i never though about lowering the fp. that hybrid setup came with an afpr. so i would scale for injectors say 55lbs injectors in the cal and i would lower the fp to compensate for it is the way im understanding it. in turn it would allow me to take some strain off the fuel system. im just using 55lbs as an example.

corn fed!!

Just set the FP to whatever the injectors are rated at and scale the injectors in the cal for what rating the injectors are.

roachjuice
03-05-2012, 06:55 PM
Oh ok. Yea I think they are the 85# injectors from DIY. I think it's 43psi

Force Fed Mopar
03-07-2012, 10:10 AM
MPTune has an injector calculator built in that allows you to figure out what pph your injector flows at different pressures. It is under the Setup tab at the top.

roachjuice
03-24-2012, 10:46 AM
So this arrived today.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/f57e7643.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/e9de17f9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/60809f8c.jpg
I got it cheap. No shaft play. Looks great. Figured I could sell that wastegate actuator and make most my money back.

roachjuice
03-24-2012, 07:14 PM
You think my hood will shut? Lol. I need to relocate the wastegate actuator. Any ideas?


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/09b9bfe2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/8eb16959.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/b9b4d5ac.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/f9ddffef.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/a5fd4f78.jpg

roachjuice
03-26-2012, 10:27 PM
Had to rotate the turbo. Center section and compressor side. I rotated the compressor side down like an srt. Otherwise it wasn't gonna clear the hood. Now to get that dam snap ring back in on the compressor. Holy shyt it's tough.

speedfreek500
03-27-2012, 12:15 AM
Ya it sure is! i had to reclock my turbo also..... Three times and everytime i had to get the wife to help hold the snap ring with a screw driver as i reinstalled it. My snap ring tool broke as i was taking it out the first time.

roachjuice
03-29-2012, 11:35 AM
So what kind of Wastegate setup is everyone running on the hx35?

roachjuice
04-04-2012, 06:04 PM
Pulled the old motor today. Found this. Front motor mount. Looks like I got a little welding to do.

Force Fed Mopar
04-04-2012, 06:23 PM
Been there, done that.

OmniLuvr
04-04-2012, 06:50 PM
at least 4 times for me... ive used bigger washers on my bolts with a little bit more sucess. make sure that before you weld it that you grind a v groove in the crack where the 2 pieces you are welding together meet. if you just weld on "top" of the crack, then grind smooth so the bolt will seat right, then it WILL crack again...

Force Fed Mopar
04-04-2012, 06:54 PM
I loctited the bolts when I fixed mine. Worked good.

roachjuice
04-04-2012, 08:34 PM
Will do. :D

roachjuice
04-05-2012, 06:47 PM
stabbed the new motor in today. went pretty smooth. ill upload some pix later. still have to put the head together, install new piston and some other fabrication.

roachjuice
04-05-2012, 07:46 PM
Some pix

forcedfedmopar
04-05-2012, 11:39 PM
nice, its gonna be a monster!

roachjuice
04-06-2012, 01:24 AM
Hopefully!! Lol

roachjuice
04-15-2012, 01:06 AM
Ok so I pulled the messed up piston from the engine. This is the piston. Yea.... Coy ran 13.5@102 in a minivan with 3 cylinders lol.

RoadWarrior222
04-15-2012, 01:04 PM
Hammer the bulge back and keep it for a spare.

roachjuice
04-15-2012, 02:10 PM
Hammer the bulge back and keep it for a spare.

I hate to ask this but you think that will work? Lol

RoadWarrior222
04-15-2012, 02:54 PM
For small values of work, yes, like in a TBI for a couple of years, or to get your rusted out and cobbled together with the takesoffs, parts car down the road to be weighed in for scrap.

shackwrrr
04-17-2012, 10:28 AM
Looks like possible piston speed damage. Revving that 2.5 too much

roachjuice
04-17-2012, 02:14 PM
He said the head lifted and a little oil got in there and it got hot and detonated. He said he was shifting it at 6800rpm though. Dunno what caused it. Everything else looks fine.

pauly_no_van
04-17-2012, 03:05 PM
16v . . .
sellin out man :-/

roachjuice
04-17-2012, 05:08 PM
16v . . .
sellin out man :-/

Lol man I got a good deal on it and couldnt pass it up.

pauly_no_van
04-18-2012, 08:02 PM
hahaha I really hope it makes ya smile!
finished pics already!?

roachjuice
04-18-2012, 09:07 PM
hahaha I really hope it makes ya smile!
finished pics already!?

Im still working on it. Mostly fab work left. I just need to find time to mess with it. But yea I can't wait!!!

roachjuice
04-24-2012, 10:39 AM
Ok so first I have to put the head together. You know valves,retainers,springs etc. I have no clue wtf I'm doing on that aspect. Any advise? I don't want to fuk this up.
Second: I have a fuel rail issue. It's all AN fittings. I wanna retain my stock fuel lines going to the tank. Is there an Adaptor I can buy that goes from AN to a nipple so I can run the soft fuel hose?
Third: would I benefit by selling that header I have and going with something like a log style manifold? Would it hurt performance much? Reason I'm asking is I really don't know it that compressor housing will clear with it sitting that high.
Forth and last question: wtf do I do with the compressor outlet on an hx35? It has this vband on it. I saw some stock vband outlet pipes from a Cummins on eBay for 60 dollars. But I'm just wanting to see what others do.

RoadWarrior222
04-24-2012, 02:34 PM
Valves are easy, the fat end goes inside, the stick end goes up, the spring goes over it, and the retainer goes on the end.

turbovanmanČ
04-24-2012, 03:09 PM
I'd cut off the v-band and just weld a bead around it to retain the hose.

Keep the header, :nod:




Looks like possible piston speed damage. Revving that 2.5 too much

Blasphemy, no such thing.


He said the head lifted and a little oil got in there and it got hot and detonated. He said he was shifting it at 6800rpm though. Dunno what caused it. Everything else looks fine.

Yep, looks melted.

OmniLuvr
04-24-2012, 03:18 PM
Ok so first I have to put the head together
advise?

well, tell you the truth, if the head had been dissasembled, and the valves havent been marked to there original location, then there is a good chance they might not seal properly. i would take the whole thing into the machine shop, have them at least lap the valves, and put it back together, its a lot easier with the proper tool (spring compressor).


would I benefit by selling that header I have and going with something like a log style manifold? Would it hurt performance much? Reason I'm asking is I really don't know it that compressor housing will clear with it sitting that high.

i cant say it would hurt performance that much? but it maight be the better route, im seeing a log header being lower (better for comp housing clearance) and it might have a location for an external wastegate, then you can weld your flapper shut and not have to worry bout how to mount the accuator. then you would have to purchase an external gate, but you could gain a screamer pipe :)


wtf do I do with the compressor outlet on an hx35

i would grind down the vband until its more like a lip, then slide the hose over and clamp it.

RoadWarrior222
04-24-2012, 04:02 PM
DIY valve spring compressor, get one of those cheapy flat prybars that's about two fingers wide, on the crooked end, grind out the vee notch into a half by an inch or so slot.... tweak bend as necessary, may require a strategic block of wood on some motors.... as a firm place for the pivot, which is the outside of the crooked curve, you kinda use it backwards to a prybar, rock it on that and push down.

But yah, if valves are mixed up, just have to sit down, swap 'em around until you seem to get the best matches, then lap them in...

cheapy lapping tool...
Get a 1/4" hex drive 7/16 or 1/2 socket, usually see them in bit sets, get a fatter than your thumb lump of heater hose or other thick hose that fits close to whatever socket, cut about an inch and a half off the hose, force it over the socket, secure with hose clamp... now, using a low speed reversible drill or screwdriver, work it back and forward a few turns each way with the lapping compound, moderate pressure, modern lapping compound break down into smaller grits in use, so they're one stage, usually, so inspect, but try and keep the same compound in it if it looks close (rather than starting with fresh harsher stuff again) You can use any screwdriver handle you like and roll it back and forth in your palms too... but you might find it tiring to keep pressure on like that... if your tool seems to slip too much, give it a fresh end with a hacksaw, raggedy will grip better than a smooth cut.

roachjuice
04-24-2012, 04:24 PM
Good advise guys thanks. I have a valve spring compressor he let me borrow so I'll give it a shot. I never thought about grinding that vband down to act as a bead.

turbovanmanČ
04-24-2012, 04:29 PM
cheapy lapping tool...
Get a 1/4" hex drive 7/16 or 1/2 socket, usually see them in bit sets, get a fatter than your thumb lump of heater hose or other thick hose that fits close to whatever socket, cut about an inch and a half off the hose, force it over the socket, secure with hose clamp... now, using a low speed reversible drill or screwdriver, work it back and forward a few turns each way with the lapping compound, moderate pressure, modern lapping compound break down into smaller grits in use, so they're one stage, usually, so inspect, but try and keep the same compound in it if it looks close (rather than starting with fresh harsher stuff again) You can use any screwdriver handle you like and roll it back and forth in your palms too... but you might find it tiring to keep pressure on like that... if your tool seems to slip too much, give it a fresh end with a hacksaw, raggedy will grip better than a smooth cut.

Even cheaper and easier, take some rubber hose, 1-2" long, you need some that's a tight fit over the valve stem, now find a drill bit the same size, put the bit into the cordless drill, add lapping compound and spin the valve, lift up and down and voila, lapped valves-inspect and repeat as necessary. :nod:

RoadWarrior222
04-24-2012, 04:33 PM
yeah, but you risk the hose popping off and dropping valves on the floor and bending them, so add two hose clamps for security and you're one hose clamp more expensive than mine :p

turbovanmanČ
04-24-2012, 05:44 PM
yeah, but you risk the hose popping off and dropping valves on the floor and bending them, so add two hose clamps for security and you're one hose clamp more expensive than mine :p

If the hose isn't tight enough and only gimboids do silly stuff like that. ;)

roachjuice
04-24-2012, 06:24 PM
Ok so mocking up the intake manifold and I've ran into a snag.
Yea this isn't gonna clear. Rob m suggested a first gen neon dohc intake manifold. Will that clear the dizzy?

OmniLuvr
04-24-2012, 07:47 PM
whats wrong with that intake? is it because of the radiator? im planning on running a shorter rad and putting it where the condensor used to be...

and what head are you using? i like the tsat on the end, where did that adapter come from? and are you running the dizzy in the stock location?

il be going through the same stuff you are very soon, but at least i have a friend that will tig weld the pieces i fabricate... header, intake...

Force Fed Mopar
04-24-2012, 08:28 PM
Neon radiator fits where the condenser goes pretty good.

RoadWarrior222
04-24-2012, 08:34 PM
If the hose isn't tight enough and only gimboids do silly stuff like that. ;)Gimboid? Is that you Rimmer, you smeghead? ;-)

roachjuice
04-24-2012, 10:10 PM
whats wrong with that intake? is it because of the radiator? im planning on running a shorter rad and putting it where the condensor used to be...

and what head are you using? i like the tsat on the end, where did that adapter come from? and are you running the dizzy in the stock location?

il be going through the same stuff you are very soon, but at least i have a friend that will tig weld the pieces i fabricate... header, intake...

I'll try a neon rad. Yea it was because of the radiator. Coy Johnson (DBBmini) made everything on this setup including the adaptor. It's a 99 stratus head. Dizzy is In stock location.

Force Fed Mopar
04-24-2012, 10:18 PM
Not looking good for the 1st Gen intake idea...

roachjuice
04-24-2012, 10:23 PM
Just got done installing the valves,springs and retainers. Time consuming. Not really hard.

roachjuice
04-24-2012, 10:40 PM
Looking like it's getting closer.

roachjuice
04-24-2012, 10:56 PM
Ha ok so If I do the neon radiator what am I gonna do about a radiator cap? The one on the intake manifold is cut and welded with a brass nipple coming off it for the heater.

speedfreek500
04-25-2012, 01:13 AM
You can use a jeep liberty uper rad hose that has the cap in the upper hose.

wallace
04-25-2012, 03:13 AM
you can look in summit or jegs they will have a tubing section with a cap made into it.

roachjuice
04-25-2012, 07:54 AM
I may look into that. What year neon? Like a 96 dohc neon? Friend of mine suggested making the runners a little shorter. I still don't think that will be enough.

Force Fed Mopar
04-25-2012, 09:27 AM
Yeah 1st Gen is what I test fitted.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/53098/10002/-1?CT=999

Reeves
04-25-2012, 10:08 AM
Here's what I did for a T-stat housing just recently. This is a mockup pic, it looks better now....lol

roachjuice
04-25-2012, 10:09 AM
Yeah 1st Gen is what I test fitted.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/53098/10002/-1?CT=999

Sweet. Thanks for the link.

roachjuice
04-25-2012, 10:18 AM
Here's what I did for a T-stat housing just recently. This is a mockup pic, it looks better now....lol

Looks like it will work!! Ok I'm back in business. Now on the to do list.
Neon radiator
Custom hoses
Jegs cap thing a ma jig
Mod the hx35 housing (I can do that)
Mount a wastegate (still havent figured that out yet) wanna stay internal anyone know of the stock hx35 wastegate that goes horizontal instead of vertical will fit on my turbo that came with the vertical setup?
Finish the downpipe. (using the stock hx35 doughnut flange and the piece of pipe that goes to it. Looks like it will work)
Head gasket (may just use 1 instead of modding 2 to make 1)
One piston (gotta figure out what cc it is. Wrist pin is a .912 and it's .020 over.)
Other odds and ends I can't think of now. Getting close.

moparman76_69
04-25-2012, 02:16 PM
If you swing by a junkyard see if you can make the 420a thermostat housing thingy work on the neon head. It has the cap as part of the housing.

roachjuice
04-25-2012, 02:23 PM
If you swing by a junkyard see if you can make the 420a thermostat housing thingy work on the neon head. It has the cap as part of the housing.

Yea there are plenty of those in the yards around here.

Force Fed Mopar
04-25-2012, 09:11 PM
If you swing by a junkyard see if you can make the 420a thermostat housing thingy work on the neon head. It has the cap as part of the housing.


Yea there are plenty of those in the yards around here.

Won't work with your intake.

roachjuice
04-25-2012, 09:13 PM
Won't work with your intake.

Oh yea I forgot lol

roachjuice
04-26-2012, 02:34 PM
You guys think a regular fel pro head gasket will be alright? Or should i buy 2 and make a 5 layer?

roachjuice
05-16-2012, 12:54 PM
This is getting overwhelming. :( really thinking about selling all this stuff and going back 8v.

speedfreek500
05-16-2012, 01:27 PM
Dont give up man, i was really looking foward to seeing this done. :thumb:

turbovanmanČ
05-16-2012, 01:29 PM
This is getting overwhelming. :( really thinking about selling all this stuff and going back 8v.

Step back and take a breath, it seems so at first but the results are worth it, :nod:

Force Fed Mopar
05-16-2012, 01:32 PM
Honestly, I'd sell the hybrid stuff and go full 2.4 or back to 8v for simplicity.

forcedfedmopar
05-16-2012, 01:34 PM
Honestly, I'd sell the hybrid stuff and go full 2.4 or back to 8v for simplicity.

this. Im not sure of your goals but an lbody with a healthy 8v seems to get guys going fairly quick these days. Why over complicate things............

cordes
05-16-2012, 06:24 PM
This is getting overwhelming. :( really thinking about selling all this stuff and going back 8v.


Honestly, I'd sell the hybrid stuff and go full 2.4 or back to 8v for simplicity.


this. Im not sure of your goals but an lbody with a healthy 8v seems to get guys going fairly quick these days. Why over complicate things............

I suggested this from the beginning!

OmniLuvr
05-17-2012, 01:27 AM
but the "hybrid" block is already installed, i think that is the hardest part, whats left thats getting overwhelming? or do you still have to get a piston for the block? was the block thats installed only mock up for the dual cam head and turbo? really, i wish i was as close as you, I've just got a pile of parts collected :( i built a block with t3 pistons for cheap, but the t3 head part wont be...

roachjuice
05-17-2012, 07:26 AM
Yea it's already installed. If it weren't already prepped for hybrid stuff I wouldn't have done the hybrid thing. What's overwhelming is this is all new to me lol. There is so much I still need to do. If I went full 2.4 from here I'm still in the same boat but I would have to completely rebuild the engine with srt components or better. This one is already built minus one piston. I'm gonna keep at it I think. For the time being. If I feel I've hit a snag, expect a for sale ad with a bunch of hybrid stuff.

RoadWarrior222
05-17-2012, 09:29 AM
Be strong, just cobble it together somehow, speed isn't a beauty contest after all :p

roachjuice
05-17-2012, 09:59 AM
Be strong, just cobble it together somehow, speed isn't a beauty contest after all :p

Oh trust me, it will be cobbled together lol. Gonna order a head gasket today and the manifold gaskets maybe. I thought about buying 2 to make a custom 5 layer but I think a regular 3 layer will work just fine. Sometime next week hopefully I can order a piston and bolt it together. There are so many AN fittings and lines. Ridiculous. I have some arp head studs also, do I need to put the arp lube on them? Or does something else work?

RoadWarrior222
05-17-2012, 10:20 AM
Lube or use fresh engine oil BUT TAKE NOTE OF TORQUE SPECS which may be different for different lubes.

turbovanmanČ
05-17-2012, 03:41 PM
I have some arp head studs also, do I need to put the arp lube on them? Or does something else work?

Use the proper lube.

roachjuice
05-17-2012, 07:17 PM
Use the proper lube.

I always use the proper lube ;)

OmniLuvr
05-18-2012, 03:52 PM
really though, kind of a big deal for arps, use the arp lube... and just incase you want to sell some hybrid stuff, let me know... but id much rather see it running in your omni...

roachjuice
05-18-2012, 04:22 PM
I ordered a piston from Cindy today. Getting a head gasket sometime this week. That should keep me busy for a few hours lol. Yea if I do get in over my head I'll let ya know. Rob m has Dibs on the header.

roachjuice
05-18-2012, 04:23 PM
Can I order the arp lube by itself?

Reeves
05-18-2012, 04:31 PM
Can I order the arp lube by itself?

Yeah, get a tube of ARP Moly Lube. Then use the ARP regular specs for torque. ARP also has standard oil specs that are higher....don't use those.

---------- Post added at 04:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:30 PM ----------

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-9909/?rtype=10

roachjuice
05-18-2012, 04:56 PM
Sweet. Thanks

turbovanmanČ
05-18-2012, 09:36 PM
Yeah, get a tube of ARP Moly Lube. Then use the ARP regular specs for torque. ARP also has standard oil specs that are higher....don't use those.

---------- Post added at 04:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:30 PM ----------

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-9909/?rtype=10

I use it on every fastener instead of regular anti-seize, works much better, :nod:

speedfreek500
05-18-2012, 11:11 PM
I use it on every fastener instead of regular anti-seize, works much better, :nod:

I dont know why you would do that when you have it apart every other month :) lol sorry had to Simon.

The moly lube is dam cheap to buy i wouldnt use anything else.

Force Fed Mopar
05-19-2012, 01:14 AM
Rob m has Dibs on the header.

:eyebrows:

roachjuice
05-25-2012, 12:14 PM
39822
Got something in the mail today. :)

omni_840
05-25-2012, 01:12 PM
Nice! Def need to change your thread title:)

roachjuice
05-25-2012, 01:18 PM
Lol yea I lost track on how much this has cost me. I'm still fairly cheap though lol.

RoadWarrior222
05-25-2012, 01:27 PM
39822
Got something in the mail today. :)That will look good sitting on the desk, just remember to run lean enough to melt a good sized divot in the side there to stop the cigars rolling out. :thumb:

roachjuice
05-25-2012, 01:31 PM
That will look good sitting on the desk, just remember to run lean enough to melt a good sized divot in the side there to stop the cigars rolling out. :thumb:

Lol I've got a messed up one already. I'm gonna be pretty Safe with this build

pauly_no_van
07-10-2012, 01:01 PM
6 weeks any progress?
pics?
I use axle grease on my arp's works well 90'lb in 10-15'lb increments...

Force Fed Mopar
07-10-2012, 10:58 PM
He has the pistons back in :)

roachjuice
07-12-2012, 07:47 AM
Ha yea sorry. Just been busy. Got some arp lube in the mail yesterday. Should slap the head on this weekend sometime. Still need some manifold gaskets. I'm just gonna go to oreilly for those. Still need to make one oil feed line because I lost it. Make some fuel line adapters or something. Slowly but surely it's coming along.

roachjuice
07-16-2012, 08:41 PM
Ok I did some wrenching on it today. Installed the dizzy. Bolted the rod to the crank so the piston install is complete. Put the starter in. Bolted the oil pan up. Done for the day.

turbovanmanČ
07-16-2012, 08:49 PM
What direction are you taking now? 8 or 16 valve?

roachjuice
07-16-2012, 09:07 PM
Lol still on the 16v route. Gonna try to work on it more this week. Wife asked why I'm not working on the Omni anymore. Guess that means I need to get my --- in gear.

turbovanmanČ
07-16-2012, 09:08 PM
Nice, and gotta love it when the wife/gf wants it running, :nod:

135sohc
07-16-2012, 10:16 PM
They want it running so its not sitting as yard art... ;)

roachjuice
07-17-2012, 05:13 AM
Its garage art right now. :.)

roachjuice
08-16-2012, 08:31 AM
Life gets in the way. Heat waves. Kids. Blah blah blah. It's cooling down here lately. I got a few questions.
First, when I spray this head gasket down with that mopar sealant stuff do I wait till it's dry to put it on or slap it on wet? Second, do I put arp lube on both sides of the head studs (part that goes in the block and part that sticks up through the head). Third, how tight to I put the studs in before I put the nuts on? Just bottom them out? And lastly anyone know the thread pitch of the oil feed line for a holset hx35?

I came across another snag too. I'm gonna move the battery to the back now. Just to clean it up a bit and the positive wire is fuked. So that's another set back.

wallace
08-16-2012, 08:38 AM
The studs go in the block finger tight. I use the lube on both ends but I don't think you really need to on the end that screws into the block. The inlet fitting on the holset is a bugger. I bought the Earl's fitting I believe its 12mm x 1.5 to #4. Earls part # 9919BFGERL. The fitting doesn't come with a replacement o-ring so you'll have to reuse the old one or go to a hydraulic shop and get one from them. I'd let the hylomar setup before installing the gasket.

roachjuice
08-16-2012, 09:38 AM
The studs go in the block finger tight. I use the lube on both ends but I don't think you really need to on the end that screws into the block. The inlet fitting on the holset is a bugger. I bought the Earl's fitting I believe its 12mm x 1.5 to #4. Earls part # 9919BFGERL. The fitting doesn't come with a replacement o-ring so you'll have to reuse the old one or go to a hydraulic shop and get one from them. I'd let the hylomar setup before installing the gasket.

sweet. thanks.