FWD-P Nearly-Stainless Down Pipe

[MiniMopar]

The Daytona has FWD-P 3" SS exhaust along with the DP. The flange on the DP is not stainless and after about 4 years is completely rusted through and about to let go. The donut is also rusting like crazy. Anyone else have this problem?

I can replace the donut, but no one seems to sell just the flange. The flange looked to be a 2.5" one with the hole hogged-out. Somehow my stock OEM flange and donut still look fine after two decades. Any suggestions on where I can get an actual SS flange?

What really ticks me off is that the DP is wrapped and has an O2 bung on it, so that means I'll either need to cut the pipe and re-weld it to slip the new flange on or I'll have to cut and re-weld the new flange. Annoying!

[Ondonti]

Is it wrapped around the flange area? Those wraps not only hold moisture but the extreme temps they trap into the metal makes deteriorate much faster. I would look into ceramic coating it if you want a temperature barrier. My mild steel stuff that is coated still has no rust in 4 years.

[glhs727]

:thumb: +1
Do not wrap the downpipe. If this was a race only car that didn't see rain, or wet weather than a wrap would be OK, but on a street car, especially in a winter salt area you probably shorted the life span of your exhaust products by quite a bit.
The wrap will hold moisture and accelerate rust. If the DP was coated before you applied the wrap, it should probably be OK.

BUT I'm glad you posted. In the 11+ years we have been selling exhaust, I haven't heard any real major complaints about the longevity of our exhaust products. I am lucky to live in a southern state, so from my personal experience, even the aluminized steel exhausts on my cars have done great. I'm hoping that yours is an isolated case and related to the wrapping of the pipe, not necessarily the pipe quality itself. I hope others chime in with their own personal experience. I am always open to feedback, and if it helps us make a better product, I'm all for it.
Thanks,
Cindy

[GLHNSLHT2]

:needpics1:

[MiniMopar]

Cindy, the DP is fine...it is stainless. The wrap ends about 6 inches from the flange. It's the flange itself...the loose part that the bolts go through, that is rusted to oblivion. It is most definitely NOT stainless. I'll snap some pics the next time it is up.

I wrapped the pipe because it is an 86 and doesn't have a forward heat shield to protect the shift cables. it was the only thing that I had on hand that would fit around a 3" pipe.

[puppet]

Cindy .. the 3" donut I got along with my DP had plain steel mesh core. Didn't last at all. I mean it was obliterated.

Russ, Cadillac used a 3" donut (felpro) that has a copper core. Needs a small amount of contour modification outside to fit a little deeper in the SV flange. Easy to do with a belt sander.

[glhs727]

I can replace the flange and donut. I'll look into SS flanges too.
The donuts have been several variations over the years. I will check and see what we are currently selling, and see if it is the better one...
Thanks for the comments! But what about the actual exhaust pipes? anyone having issues with those rusting out?
Thanks,
Cindy

[GLHNSLHT2]

If you have to change the flange just grind off the bung and weld a new one back on after putting a new flange on.

[MiniMopar]

Thanks Cindy. I actually got two of your DP kits along with the two 3" SS exhaust systems, the other being for the CSX. I haven't installed the DP in the CSX yet, because it still had the stock turbo. Failure of the old one flange is imminent, but the rest of the system looks great. No signs of corrosion.

I'll probably just swap the whole DP assembly over to the new one and leave off the WBO2 for now. I'll take side-by-side pics when they are out.

[Vigo]

Just throwing this out there. Might need slight mods but it would never rust.

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/flanges-v-bands-36/universal-exhaust-flanges-52/3-00-stainless-2-bolt-universal-exhaust-flange-262.html

[shackwrrr]

Ill admit that when I welded the bung and evac tube into my downpipe that I forgot to put the flange on. I just notched the flange wide enough for the bung and then welded it back together once I got it on there. Not as pretty but works and you dont see it anyway.

[MiniMopar]

Thanks for the link!

[turbovanman²]

Ill admit that when I welded the bung and evac tube into my downpipe that I forgot to put the flange on. I just notched the flange wide enough for the bung and then welded it back together once I got it on there. Not as pretty but works and you dont see it anyway.

LOL, good to know I am not the only one, :eyebrows:

[shackwrrr]

Damn, Nice link

I should have just bought this for my exhaust

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/builder-kits-33/ultimate-builder-kit-111/3-00-od-4-00-radius-14-gauge-409-stainless-ultimate-bk-1013.html

[raccoon]

Just throwing this out there. Might need slight mods but it would never rust.

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/flanges-v-bands-36/universal-exhaust-flanges-52/3-00-stainless-2-bolt-universal-exhaust-flange-262.html

wow 30 bucks? they didnt even deburr it after the laser!

[BadAssPerformance]

Russ, you can swap a flange by cutting the old one off and then slice the new one and weld it back together. Heck I did one only cut on one side and twisted it to get it off then twisted it back and never welded it, LOL... was on a 2.5" flange tho, 3" would be harder to do that way. If you get a SS flange I'll offer to weld it back together with the TIG, I got SS filler rod too...

[Ondonti]

Thats amazing that it rusted out so fast with no wrap. Daily driver?

[MiniMopar]

Yeah, it's a daily driver. Like I said, the pipe itself is fine. It's the flange that bolts the pipe to the turbo that rusted out. It's not stainless. It probably doesn't see much moisture either, so the accelerated corrosion is probably from the heat.

[BadAssPerformance]

Yeah, aluminized just burns off when you heat it that much... then it rusts :(

[Vigo]

Did i mention hooray Texas? :p

[MiniMopar]

These were both bought around the same time, about 4 years ago. The one on the right has been in the Daytona for all that time. The only reason it was still holding was because I had welded a small stainless ring on the top side to act as a spacer. I forgot about this. Because these are hogged-out 2.5" flanges, they are missing the lip in the center that creates some distance between the flange and the turbo. Without it, there wasn't enough tension on the bolt springs and the articulation was limited.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=27331&stc=1&d=1292048059

[GLHNSLHT2]

Omg!!!!

[BadAssPerformance]

Ouch...

[135sohc]

20 year old factory parts from the rust belt look better.

[glhs727]

Yea, but i think the factory exhaust was SS.
Russ,
Give me a call, I'll replace those pieces with something better. thanks for all the info that pthers and you have posted. We will be looking into a different type flange on the next go around. Hopefully this is a isolated case, but anyone else has issues, please contact us.
Thanks
Cindy

[BadAssPerformance]

Yea, but i think the factory exhaust was SS.

Correctamundo. They were 409 SS which gets a rust color to it but wont rust through... less expensive than the 304 SS that stays shiney

[MiniMopar]

Thanks Cindy. I'll give you a call this week. I put the shiny one in as a replacement for now. Should last a couple of years.