View Full Version : The smurf

11-18-2010, 08:01 PM
Figured I would start a p log of my 85 omni glht.
I bought it from clocktowersniper a couple months or so ago.
The first thing I did was find out why it wasn't getting fuel. The damn tank had so much crap in it, it was unbelievable.
I bought a new tank, sending unit, and walbro pump. After all that 2 of the injectors weren't firing. I put in a spare power module I had laying around and that did the trick. The injectors were clogged so I bought some from someone here and popped them in. I got it running for a few seconds but it was only running on 3 cylinders. I pulled the valvecover to discover the exhaust valve on #1 cylinder was stuck all the way open. I pulled the head to find this
I dropped the pan and the oil was like pudding. I took out the pistons and rods and was relieved when the rod bearings looked great. The cylinder walls also looked good enough to hone and rering.

11-18-2010, 08:06 PM
I basically redid all the brakes. New drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, SS braided brake hose, calipers, pads, rotors. Since I was pulling the head I figured it was a good time to convert to t2 as I have most of what I need. Mounted the civic radiator along with t3 IC. Still need to fab up some brackets.

11-18-2010, 08:09 PM
I bought a reman 287 head and Pats t2 turbo. Tomorrow it's getting honed and the pistons installed. I also put in a new headlight switch along with relays for the hi and low beams.

11-18-2010, 08:14 PM
More random pictures.
Boost gauge installed.
Cool stuff I found in the glove box. I'm technically the second owner of the car.

11-20-2010, 06:00 PM
Pistons are in.

11-23-2010, 08:38 PM
Flexible lower radiator hose fits perfect with the civic radiator.

11-23-2010, 09:10 PM
Wow that was crazy (the sending unit I mean)

Looks like you got a nice start to what seems a really nice straight L body. :nod:

12-04-2010, 12:15 AM
It had a huge dent in the quarter panel from getting kicked by a horse. I got most of it out with a prybar.

12-04-2010, 12:50 AM
Kicked by a horse?!? Gotta be a story there! That gas take was unreal!

12-08-2010, 07:40 PM
Getting there.

12-09-2010, 07:32 PM
Heads on.

12-09-2010, 07:48 PM
Looks good :thumb: is the radiator from ebay?

12-09-2010, 09:43 PM
Looks good :thumb: is the radiator from ebay?Yeah. I think I paid around 80 shipped for rad and the slim fan.

12-10-2010, 11:35 PM
Almost done now. I had to solder in the injector connector from my 86 daytona because the omni's connector was different.

12-11-2010, 05:07 PM
The smurf lives!!!!!!!!! Sorta. It starts with brake clean so I think it's just out of gas. Fuel pump turns on. Now I just have to install the alternator, pulleys, u-joint, cv boots, IC hoses and SS braided brake hose.

12-11-2010, 05:46 PM
You've done a great job so far, keep it up :thumb:

12-13-2010, 01:16 PM
It finally moved under its own power. Even if I only backed it out of the shop. The drivers side cam seal was leaking so I have to fix that.

12-16-2010, 08:18 PM
Fwdp SS brake hose installed on rear. Still have to do the front ones.

12-17-2010, 08:45 PM
Front ones are done.

12-17-2010, 11:29 PM
Looking good.

12-17-2010, 11:43 PM
Your turbo spools up nice. Even though it's not connected to the intake.

12-18-2010, 08:17 PM
I tried to bleed the brakes but that didn't work. Fluid came out all four corners but the pedal never got hard. I kinda had a feeling this was going to happen, so I ordered a new master cylinder a few days ago.

12-22-2010, 11:24 PM
Intercooler (radiator) hoses all hooked up. It's all 2 1/4 hoses. And that is my blood on the lower hose:lol:.

12-23-2010, 07:05 PM
Bleeding brakes works better when the calipers are on the right side.

12-27-2010, 08:13 PM
I took the ole smurf out for a test run even though it doesn't seem to be making the oil pressure it should. It hauls --- at 14psi. Much faster than my t2 daytona was, even with the stock exhaust system.

12-27-2010, 08:43 PM
Put a mechanical gauge on it before you condemn it, just to be sure.

rich tideswell
12-27-2010, 09:12 PM
Auto zone Oil Pressure switch w/ gauge PS148 $15

12-27-2010, 09:54 PM
Here is the thread about the oil pressure with video.

12-31-2010, 10:41 AM
I dont really feel like messing with the engine so i fixed some little stuff. Both rear doors wouldnt open so i put new clips in and hooked the rods back up. I lubed the hell out of all 4 windows so now they roll up and down without falling forward. I also got a new lock cylinder for the trunk. Now i need to match the front door lock cylinders to the key i have.

01-04-2011, 07:57 PM
I installed the new rear springs and shocks. Sits much better even though it has smaller wheels on the back.

01-09-2011, 09:52 PM
I'm pretty sure this is the reason to my oil pressure problem. Gonna throw in a new pump and rod bearings.
I think I'm going to swap in door panels from my 87 omni because the ones on the smurf are cracked on the top part and the pass front one is water logged and messed up. The 87 has 1 piece panels and I think they look a lot nicer. I might also delete the pass side mirror because it's broken.

01-13-2011, 01:14 PM
Did some minor stuff. Put new wiper bushings in and replaced every blown light bulb.
Looks like an rc car compared to these trucks.

01-13-2011, 02:34 PM
Hey man I want to compliment you on your steady progress, good job!

01-13-2011, 03:42 PM
^^^ I agree, it's looking really good:)

01-13-2011, 07:49 PM
Thanks. Today I took off the front bumper brackets and cut them down about 2 inches. It sits a lot closer and looks a million times better. I still have to do the rear bumper too. I don't really like the look when people take it off. To me, it looks weird. I got a melling oil pump to replace my worn stocker, but the pick up tube wont fit it.

01-14-2011, 08:29 PM
Pictures of tucked bumper. Doing the rear tomorrow.

01-17-2011, 11:18 AM
Nice. They look much better that way!

01-17-2011, 03:59 PM
Very nice, I'm going to do mine like that eventually:)

01-17-2011, 06:31 PM
Here is the rear being mocked up. It looks a lot less like a go kart this way.

01-18-2011, 09:24 PM
Rear bumper is all done.

01-18-2011, 11:26 PM
Looks good, how much did you take out of the back?

01-18-2011, 11:37 PM
I think it was right around 2 inches. My plans for the rest of the exterior is to repaint the car santa fe blue, but also paint the ground effects to match. Drop it down with some koni's. And then get these rota slipstreams in 15x7.

01-18-2011, 11:55 PM
Nice work all the way round! Keep chipping away at it.
Where did you get the in tank sending unit?

01-19-2011, 12:06 AM
I got mine from my dealership. You can get them at rockauto or other parts stores but they are for TBI cars. Just throw away the TBI pump and put a walbro in there.

02-18-2011, 01:58 PM
Im done with the omni for now. Cant figure out why its loosing oil pressure and don't feel like wasting money on this engine. Im going to build a 2.2 cb when i get the money, and ditch the 525 while im at it.

04-12-2011, 05:55 PM
I haven't really done anything to the smurf. Im going to be pulling the engine soon to see if I or the machine shop can figure out why it wont hold oil pressure. I did get a nice grill from a buddy though.

04-23-2011, 02:10 PM
Motor and tranny are out.

04-23-2011, 03:32 PM
That sucks to hear about your oil pressure issues. I would have also tried mounting the pressure gauge directly to the port on the front of the block to rule out oil line routing as an issue. Hopefully you'll have better luck with the next motor!

04-30-2011, 07:55 PM
That sucks to hear about your oil pressure issues. I would have also tried mounting the pressure gauge directly to the port on the front of the block to rule out oil line routing as an issue. Hopefully you'll have better luck with the next motor!I hope so too because I really, really want to just drive this car. It was so much fun for the little amount of time I drove it. You couldn't take the smile off my face.

09-03-2011, 10:17 AM
Sent the crank out friday to get polished up. Just need to save up to get a new clutch and I will be good to go.

09-15-2011, 05:58 PM
Bottom end is pretty much together.

09-15-2011, 10:19 PM
Glad to see you making progress:nod:

09-27-2011, 06:30 PM
Should be going in saturday hopefully.

10-01-2011, 09:24 PM
Almost ready to fire.

10-05-2011, 06:36 PM
IT LIVES AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!. And it has oil pressure at hot idle:amen:. It does burn oil though. I knew it would because the cylinder walls weren't all that great looking (this setup is only temporary). It has a weird issue. Once I drive it for awhile the lifters start clickity clacking. If I let it sit and idle they will quiet down again. Also, I put a new clutch in it but it doesn't engage until the very top? After I get these minor issues figured out. It needs an axle seal, wheels and tires,and front struts. Should be good to go after that.

10-05-2011, 06:54 PM
adjust your clutch pedal. There is a white plastic adjuster piece in the pedal assembly. It self adjusts when you press the pedal. As for the lifters I'd guess they are losing their hydraulic pressure under rpm and start clacking. Probably need a new set.

10-05-2011, 07:25 PM
The head is a reman but I don't know if they even put new lifters in it. I think I will stick some pt lifters in there. I should probably ditch the slider cam too.

10-08-2011, 09:00 AM
Does your head have oil squirters for the slider cam?

And just grab the clutch pedal and pull up on it to adjust it.

10-13-2011, 07:24 PM
I imagine it does have squirters for the cam. I pulled on the clutch pedal and it didn't make a difference. Maybe the ratcheting assembly is bad?. I put on my pt cruiser trunk kit wheels to see what it would look like.

10-14-2011, 07:57 AM
Sometimes you need to reach under and move the white plastic piece by hand, make sure the adjustment part hasn't popped out of the pedal. The wheels look good, I'd run them if it was me.

11-01-2011, 05:49 PM
I found out why the damn thing is running a little too warm. I pressure washed the water jackets because they were full of crud. Apparently I didn't get enough of it out. Clogged my radiator and probably heater core too. I think I'm going to bypass the heater core for the time being and try to get most if it out. Also, I wonder if the oil restrictor I put in is too small causing the lifters to not get adequate oil pressure? Although I ran the same in my 86 daytona and it didn't have this issue.

11-25-2011, 07:01 PM
I've run into a few weird issues. One is that the passenger side of the engine seems jacked up higher than the drivers side.
Second, I put new struts, springs, and spring mounts on, and the passenger side seems like it's binding. It doesn't really bounce. It also looks like it's ready to hit the rock trails it's so high.


11-25-2011, 08:46 PM
Is the mount on the driver's side new or used?

11-26-2011, 12:51 AM
They are all new and filled with a semi soft polyeurathane.

11-26-2011, 03:11 AM
Have any spacer under the driver's side one?

11-26-2011, 10:12 AM
You mean passenger side Brian?
How would there be spacers under the drivers?
I think that about how my GLHT's engine looked.

What's the application for the radiator?
I'm guessing Civic, but do you know what years?

11-26-2011, 03:19 PM
You mean passenger side Brian?
How would there be spacers under the drivers?
I think that about how my GLHT's engine looked.

What's the application for the radiator?
I'm guessing Civic, but do you know what years?Yeah, that's what is meant. Too much drinky last night.

11-26-2011, 06:31 PM
I was just worried because I didn't want to break an axle or something if the engine isn't sitting right.
The radiator is for mid 90's civics and del sols. Here is one.


11-27-2011, 07:19 PM
You might have the passenger side mount in upside down. I think there is some debate on which way the mount should go but I went with the full rubber section up.

11-28-2011, 06:15 PM
I'm pretty sure I have it in the right way. I think it's like this because it's an aftermarket mount. I took the spacers out and it leveled it out pretty good. I also figured out that if you tighten the sway bar up in the air, it will make the control arm bind. It will be going on the road on monday. Can't wait :clap:. If everything goes well and it proves reliable, I will upgrade to a 2.5" swingvalve and 3" exhaust next. Then possibly a 3 bar setup with more boost. The 525 will probably be crying by that point:lol:.

11-28-2011, 11:34 PM
Good to hear:nod:

11-29-2011, 07:51 PM
I've decided i will just do the exhaust now, and wait until i build another engine before i go any further. I grabbed a dealer plate and took it out for lunch. It ran great, stayed cool, and most importantly, had oil pressure.

12-03-2011, 09:50 PM
I am having a problem with it cutting out. It only does it under boost. It's not really specific to a certain psi IE sometimes it does it at 14psi or sometimes 3psi. Sometimes the power loss light will blink when it cuts out. I pulled the codes and the only one I get is 53 internal logic module failure. It's a fwdp stage 3 cal.

12-28-2011, 09:00 AM
I just ordered a 120a nippo alt and an external voltage regulator. That should fix my charging issues. I also bought a new clutch cable and timing belt tensioner. Hopefully the new cable fixes my really high clutch pedal.

12-28-2011, 09:41 AM
I just ordered a 120a nippo alt and an external voltage regulator. That should fix my charging issues. I also bought a new clutch cable and timing belt tensioner. Hopefully the new cable fixes my really high clutch pedal.

Male sure to make a thick cable from the alternator lug to the battery. The stock wire is 8-10 gauge and uses a 14g disable link. Once the link. Burns the power backfeeds and starts burning ----.

12-28-2011, 06:37 PM
I was surprised to see the 120a nippo alt was brand new and not reman. Not bad for 100 dollars.

12-31-2011, 03:03 PM
So I installed my new alternator, timing belt tensionor, clutch cable and antenna. I took it out for a nice 40 mile test drive. Where to start?
1. It blew an IC hose off so I tightened it down.
2. It still cuts out and I'm not sure why.
3. I hit a bump and the horn stayed on.
4. I have to put a new boot on the D/S axle (did P/S already).
5. When I got on the highway, the headliner tried to kill me. It's falling down and the wind blew crap in my eyes.
6. I think the new radiator is already plugged up again.
7. This thing attracts the most hilarious WTF was that looks.
8. It rides surprisingly good and the seat is pretty comfortable.
9. New clutch cable didn't fix the high clutch.

01-15-2012, 11:44 PM
Been driving it pretty much everyday. I managed to average about 20mpg last tank which is pretty good considering I beat on it damn hard.

01-16-2012, 08:41 AM
Did you figure out any of the issues you were having?

01-16-2012, 12:06 PM
Nope. It hasnt cut out on me at all recently. The clutch is still really high but it isnt slipping so im not too worried about it. I think once i get my taxes i will find a common block and start aquiring parts. Im not sure on which trans i want to go with. My goal is to see how far i can take a stock garrett turbo.

03-16-2012, 09:08 PM
I love this little blue bastard. Still running strong pretty much daily driving it. It doesn't seem to be burning much oil. Maybe the rings needed a little time to seat. Saving up money now for new powertrain.

06-15-2012, 12:36 AM
Thanks for the ride today Alex! I enjoyed chatting with you and your GLH pulls pretty darn good:nod:

07-18-2012, 09:40 PM
It's been awhile since I have updated because I haven't done anything except drive it. In the last week I started hearing a squeaking noise. The LF wheel bearing is toast. So i'm just going to replace both front bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, and install poly control arm bushing while i'm at it. I'm also going to get the front control arms and knuckles sand blasted and powdercoated black. Had the guys in parts find me some mopar wheel bearings.

07-20-2012, 08:15 PM
Removed the knuckles and control arms. I found that the ball joints are tack welded in on the bottom of the control arms :confused:.

07-21-2012, 03:40 AM
Not unusual. Mine were too before I changed mine.

07-21-2012, 01:35 PM
Not unusual. Mine were too before I changed mine.

The ones on my blue car are too.

07-21-2012, 05:12 PM
I removed them and they are brazed not welded. The one bushing is brazed to the control arm also. I ran into a problem with the wheel bearings though. The one hub is messed up pretty bad. I had them order me new moog hubs. I guess I will sell my NOS wheel bearings since the moog hubs come with bearings already installed.
Also, opinions on boxing in the lower control arms? Anyone think it would be beneficial?

07-21-2012, 05:24 PM
Do it. It will make them flex less. Look at early caravan arms. They interchange with the l-body arms and are reinforced.

07-21-2012, 05:28 PM
How thick of steel should I use?

07-21-2012, 05:32 PM
3/16" should work well. It won't add too much weight, but will hold up under the strain of flexing. Others have done it, so they might know what would be better to use.

07-21-2012, 06:21 PM
I've read from many guys on here that boxing the arms is a positive improvement.

08-03-2012, 11:45 AM
It ain't pretty. But I'm happy with it.

08-04-2012, 12:43 AM
Not bad. I bet that will help to stiffen things up a bit. Needs more triangles though.

08-04-2012, 01:10 AM
Been thinking of doing the same. :thumb:

08-04-2012, 01:50 PM
If I did it again, I would go with 1/8 steel instead of 3/16.

08-13-2012, 08:52 PM
Crappy picture but here are the parts powdercoated with everything installed. I put a few marks on them but they still look good.

08-20-2012, 12:34 PM
So everything is working fine. Except I noticed a little bit of grease on my LF wheel. I must have nicked the CV boot and now its slinging grease everywhere. I just put that boot on a couple of months ago too.

08-20-2012, 09:43 PM
I really hate it when your working on the front end and you do stuff like that.:mad:

08-20-2012, 11:08 PM
Indeed. Changing boots is a PITA and very messy. I don't want to put a crappy aftermarket cv in it either.

09-26-2012, 06:59 PM
So I am going to start collecting parts to build an engine. The goal is to reliably make 300-350whp but have the engine capable of handling a lot more than that if I ever want to get crazy. I am going to the pullapart to grab a common block engine.

10-19-2012, 07:19 PM
Ok so here is the plan. Right now its basically a stock t2 setup running about 13ish psi. I've got a turboback 3" exhaust waiting to go on and Shadow is making me a 3" SV. Once I get the SV, i'm going to swap it over to 87 electronics. I will then put on bigger injectors along with a 3 bar map sensor and up the boost. I'm going to relocate the battery somewhere else and fab up a nice cold air intake. After I promptly melt a piston and/or the 525 explodes, I'm going to build an engine. Might as well get my use out of this drivetrain :lol:.

10-20-2012, 02:04 PM
Damn, I better get off my arse and get that S/V shipped out! :nod:

10-21-2012, 06:55 PM
How is that Civic radiator working out? I'm thinking about going that route myself. It'll free up some space to do the intercooler setup I want to do.

10-21-2012, 10:52 PM
It works great for me. Even while being half clogged, it still keeps the car pretty cool. Only sitting and idling for 10 minutes will it creep up. I attribute that to being half plugged up and having no shroud around the radiator or the fan. The water jackets were so rusted up from being exposed to the elements for years. Make a good shroud and buy a quality slim fan and you will have no problems :thumb:.

10-22-2012, 03:32 PM
Well, I decided to drive the omni to work today. As I was pulling into work, It started missing and sounded like it was spark knocking when I hit the gas. I pull the plugs and did a compression test. 4-125, 3-125, 2-50, 1-50. When I did the test on #1, it sounded like all the air was coming out of #2. Sure enough, the gasket is blown between 1 and 2. Debating whether I want a to do a quick lift and slip hg or park it till I build a motor.

10-22-2012, 03:48 PM
quick hg change. hell reuse the head bolts. :thumb:

10-22-2012, 04:29 PM
I'd do a HG change to at least keep it mobile. Nothing worse than a car in the driveway that you have to push around.

I'm going to look more into the Civic radiator, there are some 3-cores on ebay, and there are some shroud/fan combo's. I may do some measuring and see what I can make fit cleanly.

12-10-2012, 12:27 AM
Got one of these along with a 3" fwdp exhaust to go on with a new HG and swapping to a roller cam while i'm at it. I pulled the CB 2.5 out of my 90 daytona and am going to be collecting parts for that in the meantime.

12-22-2012, 06:50 PM
Here is the headgasket.

12-24-2012, 02:25 PM
It lives again!. It has a roller cam and Shadow's 3 inch swingvalve. Right now it only has the 3 inch downpipe hooked up. Gotta bring it to work to hook the rest of the exhaust up and weld on some hangers.

12-29-2012, 03:29 PM
Awwww yeah.

12-29-2012, 03:41 PM
I bet this really woke up your GLHT, looks awesome!

12-29-2012, 03:43 PM
Yeah. I haven't gotten on it too hard yet though. Gotta borrow my friends timing light and set timing.

12-29-2012, 03:48 PM
Looking good.

12-29-2012, 08:14 PM
I think I might get one of these but paint or powdercoat it black. With the angle it should be pretty much parallel to the body of the car. I would probably have to chop an inch or 2 off the pipe so it's not sticking out so far. I will also shoot a quick video of what it sounds like. It's actually pretty quiet. If it were out the back, I probably wouldn't hear it that much.

12-30-2012, 12:16 AM
I don't know if its the roller cam, but it now pulls a steady 19 inches of vacuum instead of the 17 it used to before. It idles better and quieter as well.

01-10-2013, 07:25 PM
My goal from here on out is to see how fast I can go on a stock turbo. After I get bored with that I will go with something bigger. I figure I should make a list of stuff I want to do and get some opinions on my choices.

Bottom end.

90 2.5 CB
venolia pistons
2.2 crank (forged or cast)
t2 rods with arp bolts
crank scraper
baffled oil pan maybe
mopar oil pump and ported pump hole
arp main studs

Top end:

Ported big valve G head
conical springs
Ti retainers
pt lifters
adjustable cam gear
Not sure on what cam to go with. Any suggestions?
Modified 1 piece from simon with 58mm throttle body
Spearco IC with 2.5" IC pipes
Log exhaust manifold from simon
Shadow 3" mandrel SV and 3" exhaust

Supporting fuel mods. 255 pump, +40's, adj fpr, 3 bar map.
Going to stick with the civic half radiator but get a good quality one and make a shroud for it and the intercooler from aluminum.

I'm also considering swapping to a newer wiring harness and pcm setup. I have to do research on this.

As far as the transmission and clutch, I'm not sure what to go with. One thing I know for sure, this 525 has got to go.

Brakes, steering, suspension

I would love to get the tubular k frame and control arms.
BC coilovers with 91+ spindles.
11" front brakes and 10" rear.


srt4 viper style seats redone in OE colors. Suede in the center, leather on the bolsters. I want the same thing done to the rear seats with leather and suede. Suede headliner. The interior in mine is pretty decent. It has later year door panels with carpeting on the bottom. The only bad thing are the seat fabrics, headliner, and b pillar panels.

For the exterior I am going to paint it blue steak pearl (found on newer mopars). I'm going to paint the ground effects body color. All new window and door seals. I'm sticking with my pt cruiser trunk kit wheels. I'm ditching the lower side mouldings. Keeping the bumperettes though. They are goofy but I kind of like them.

01-10-2013, 08:15 PM
I just put a deposit down on some tubular control arms! Now I need to save for the k frame.

01-12-2013, 04:33 PM
I just put a deposit down on some tubular control arms! Now I need to save for the k frame.

Nice! Everything got better for the Charger when I made that upgrade! (drivability/ traction/ maintenance)

01-12-2013, 06:59 PM
Nice! Everything got better for the Charger when I made that upgrade! (drivability/ traction/ maintenance)What spring rate do you think would be the best to run? 336 front and 224 rear or 392 front 280 rear?

01-14-2013, 03:51 PM
I was 250 front 185 rear before the swap. Now I'm 350 front and 185 rear on the street and I find it very well balance with the rear sway bar. Although, the Charger is pretty light in the rear an a two-seater, so prob why such a light spring works so well. A little more in the rear like your 224's might be nice for your application.

I run 900's in the rear at the track.

01-20-2013, 04:30 PM
I have now decided I am going to get these rota slipstreams in 15x8 20mm offset and wrap them in either hankook r-s3 or toyo r1r in 225/45.

01-22-2013, 03:26 AM
Those look sweet!

02-01-2013, 08:02 PM
Mother of god. I just did the single most amazing thing to this car. It has literally made it 300% better. When I originally put the engine/trans back in I bought all new oem shift rods and welded the pin the linkage pivots on. Apparently as soon as I installed it the weld was crappy and it broke. I have been driving it this entire time shifting like horse crap. I've never driven a manual TD before this so didn't really think anything of it at the time. I finally looked at it and rewelded the pin back on. It is like driving a new car. I am giddy like a fat kid about to get some ice cream for when I build a new engine/trans and redo the whole car.

02-03-2013, 09:32 PM
Viper aint got sh!t on the smurf.

02-03-2013, 10:29 PM
That's a great pic.

02-03-2013, 10:36 PM
Viper aint got sh!t on the smurf.

Lol. Nice!

02-21-2013, 08:11 AM
Will daytona seats bolt right into an l body?

02-21-2013, 10:12 AM
Not without modification.

02-21-2013, 10:48 AM
Damn, im too lazy to modify them to fit right now.

02-26-2013, 07:34 PM
Picked up a pair of these from LKQ for $340. I ripped the foam out of the driver side to get repaired at the local upholstery place. Overall pretty good condition.

02-26-2013, 09:13 PM
Oh hell yea!

03-01-2013, 09:04 PM
Test fitting the srt seat. The seat sits at the same height as the stock seat, but the back is quite a bit taller. I basically cut off the omni mounts and the srt mounts, and then welded the omni mounts to the srt tracks.
Also, since srt4 seat bolsters are always chewed up on the driver side, you can swap the passenger seat to the driver side. All you have to do is swap the hinge/bracket that has the reclining handle from one seat to the other. If you swap them, you get a good seat on the drivers side and the chewed up bolsters will be inboard on the passenger side. Passengers are not important anyways.

03-20-2013, 09:59 AM
Yeah buddy.

03-23-2013, 09:02 AM
Man, that looks purrrty!!

03-27-2013, 06:08 PM
finally got my foam back from the upholstery place and installed the passenger seat.

03-30-2013, 06:52 PM
Scored this for $100.

03-30-2013, 07:05 PM
Kenwood touch screen. Playa status.

04-01-2013, 07:28 PM
Does anyone know the size and thread of the trans to block bolts? Just picked up an engine stand for the 2.5 CB i got laying on the floor.

04-01-2013, 09:48 PM
I can tell you in the morning. Got a spare bolt from taking out the trans.

04-08-2013, 06:31 PM
Tore apart the 2.5cb that will be going in the smurf. It was the knocking 2.5 tbi that came out of my 90 daytona.

And this is why it knocked.

04-10-2013, 06:32 PM
Slowly but surely gathering the parts.
2 piece with accufab fpr, +40's and 3 bar map.

04-10-2013, 09:14 PM
That is looking good.

04-11-2013, 02:02 PM
Tore apart the 2.5cb that will be going in the smurf. It was the knocking 2.5 tbi that came out of my 90 daytona.

And this is why it knocked.

EWWWW!!!! No bueno!!! The crank is probably going to need some work, and the rods might need to be resized. Is the oil pump ok? How about the intermiediate shaft and its bearings? That engine needs to be flushed out REALLY well!!! YUCK!

I bet is smelled AWESOME when you took it apart! LOL

04-11-2013, 02:55 PM
I'm going 2.2 with a forged crank. The mains and I shaft looked good still.

04-11-2013, 05:05 PM
That's incredible that those still looked good!

04-11-2013, 05:35 PM
It's smooth. I have a melling pump that is currently in my running 2.2 that I will put in the CB engine. It's going to be a 2.2 forged CB with fwdp t2 rods and venolia pistons for the bottom end.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20130411_172741_zpsb497bca3.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20130411_172741_zpsb497bca3.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20130411_172818_zps820ae6c8.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20130411_172818_zps820ae6c8.jpg.html)
The mains would maybe need a light polish.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20130411_172852_zps90d97bff.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20130411_172852_zps90d97bff.jpg.html)

04-11-2013, 07:00 PM
Those I-shaft bearing surfaces look a little discolored in the pictures. Maybe it's just an optical illusion. Yes, those mains would certainly need polishing.

08-20-2013, 05:48 PM
Got some proper rubber for the ole smurf. Dunlop direzza z2 in 205/50-16.http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20130820_151352_zps3d5811d3.jpg
Also got an 89 mini smec harness that I will install along with a 3 bar map and +40's. Maybe if I blow this engine up that will give me more incentive to build another one.http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20130819_100047_zpsfb226ce1.jpg

08-07-2014, 10:01 PM
Its been quite awhile since I have updated this thread. The plan as of right now is to swap in the 89 smec harness, relocate battery to passenger side to make room for a proper cold air intake, install 2 piece, +40's, 3 bar, run more boost and then blow it up lol. I removed the stock harness, LM and pm. I then pulled the head so I can install the 2 piece intake,+40's, and afpr. I think I'm going to upgrade to a nippondenso starter while I'm there.
Having no power steering makes pulling the head stupid easy.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140807_183723_zpsdrropjcv.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140807_183723_zpsdrropjcv.jpg.html)
Everything laid out.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140807_203003_zpspbny3wwv.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140807_203003_zpspbny3wwv.jpg.html)

08-11-2014, 09:58 PM
Been working on it a little bit. Current project is to build a battery tray for a lawn tractor battery and run it where the charcoal canister used to be. Need to do this and get the power wire for the starter made before I can put the head back on. I am going to run all new power and ground wire. All of it is 2 gauge.
Some comparison shots of the lawn tractor battery vs a group 25 size battery that I was previously running. The mopar battery is about 15lbs heavier than the lawn tractor battery. I ran a 300cca lawn tractor battery in my 98 5 speed neon for 2 years no problems even with an 800w amp and 10 inch sub.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140811_192242_zps0d6kq7wm.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140811_192242_zps0d6kq7wm.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140811_192248_zpsju01qojg.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140811_192248_zpsju01qojg.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140811_192258_zpso82mklhb.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140811_192258_zpso82mklhb.jpg.html)

Gonna build a tray out of sheet metal and put it here.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140811_192331_zpsjspxtj33.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140811_192331_zpsjspxtj33.jpg.html)

08-12-2014, 04:31 PM
I'm no fabricator so this is the best I could come up with. Not the prettiest but its functional. Our welder at work is terrible.http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140812_090054_zpsasye3r8p.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140812_090054_zpsasye3r8p.jpg.html)http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140812_161520_zpsdl4knxc8.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140812_161520_zpsdl4knxc8.jpg.html)http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140812_162926_zps0iokfqgh.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140812_162926_zps0iokfqgh.jpg.html)

08-12-2014, 04:51 PM
Nice! SMEC electronics ROCK! :nod:

08-14-2014, 07:13 PM
Pretty much finished up my ghetto homemade battery tray.
It's going to use one of the charcoal canister bolt holes.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140814_181813_zpsbhaxo3yk.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140814_181813_zpsbhaxo3yk.jpg.html)
Drilled a hole here and will put the bolt in from the fender up.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140814_181818_zpsylcbhquj.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140814_181818_zpsylcbhquj.jpg.html)
Plenty of clearance. I shut the hood and reached my hand up from the bottom to make sure.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140814_182050_zpspqfhw5yd.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140814_182050_zpspqfhw5yd.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140814_182103_zps06xs9pnr.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140814_182103_zps06xs9pnr.jpg.html)

08-14-2014, 07:40 PM
This is going to be the next project. Not looking forward to it.http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20140814_193743_zpsjnljtrzw.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20140814_193743_zpsjnljtrzw.jpg.html)

12-02-2014, 08:06 PM
It was a tough decision but I sold my slowe k frame and DJ's a arms. At this point I just want to get the bottom end built and be able to drive my car again. I don't have enough extra income to build an engine and have the kframe and arms.

12-02-2014, 08:16 PM
Build info.
2.2 cast crank common block
Venolia pistons
T2 rods with ARP bolts
Stock g head with pt lifters
Unknown stock roller cam
2 piece intake with ported throttle body
Stock t2 turbo with shadow 3" mandrel swingvalve and 3" side exit exhaust
3.5" cold air intake with massive cone filter
Stock intercooler until tax time probably
I picked up the cast crank from orielleys for $140. Haven't got it yet. Are ARP main studs really necessary? I think if all my mains check out good I might just skip the ARP mains, but if they need to be line honed I might as well pick them up. Also, what are everyone's thoughts on using a torque plate? I plan on installing a pressure tap in the exhaust manny to keep an eye on drive pressures as I do different mods.
Here is the 2.5 TBI block.http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20141202_185044_zpsyuqhxjy2.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20141202_185044_zpsyuqhxjy2.jpg.html)
Head and such.http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20141202_185100_zpsq6psikdz.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20141202_185100_zpsq6psikdz.jpg.html)

12-02-2014, 09:04 PM
Remember to plug the oil feed to the balance shafts.

12-03-2014, 02:59 PM
Remember to plug the oil feed to the balance shafts.Indeed. Would be no bueno if I didn't.
Got my crank from orielleys. Looks like rods and mains were turned .050. Run the sealed powers bearings or should I go with clevites?http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20141203_131329_zpsrgyvasny.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20141203_131329_zpsrgyvasny.jpg.html)

01-09-2015, 09:26 PM
My wiseco pistons are on the way along with arp rod bolts. I picked up a set of t2 rods off someone on here. Hopefully I can get the bottom end built in the next month or so and have it running by spring.
Did a little work to the oil pan. Building some simple baffles. I pretty much copied Pats.
This pan had extra metal in it with some kinda dampening material behind it. Was real nasty.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150109_094351_zps8pg5zjph.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150109_094351_zps8pg5zjph.jpg.html)
Have to cut out the metal and weld it in. hopefully there is enough clearance.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150109_102603_zps5wnyfjdi.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150109_102603_zps5wnyfjdi.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150109_102607_zpsrg4hugni.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150109_102607_zpsrg4hugni.jpg.html)

01-10-2015, 01:02 PM
Got my crank from orielleys. Looks like rods and mains were turned .050. Run the sealed powers bearings or should I go with clevites?http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20141203_131329_zpsrgyvasny.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20141203_131329_zpsrgyvasny.jpg.html)

.050"? Are you sure? I've never heard of a crank being turned .050" before?

I've never had to go more than .020" (extreme) usually .010", but I thought .030" was about the Most you'd want to go or just use another crank?

I've run Clevites and Mopar factory bearing with zero issues. Never tried the sealed power, but if everything is in spec. I don't see it being a problem. (unless there are any who can attest to SP bearing being Poo?)

01-10-2015, 01:15 PM
.50mm ?

01-10-2015, 02:09 PM
Yeah lol my bad. .50mm not .050.

01-10-2015, 06:54 PM
Nice, that's what I was thinking, but you never know, so figured I would ask for clarification lol :thumb:

.050" would have been :eek: in my books ;)

01-10-2015, 09:52 PM
I hope to have it running by spring. I have to pull the old shortblock out of it now and see if anyone wants a 6 bolt fidanza flywheel. I will run a stock style flywheel when it goes back together. I like the aluminum flywheel but dont feel like spending the money on a new one.

01-13-2015, 09:50 PM
Oil pan baffles are done. Trying to clean out the welding splatter from our piece of crap welder is a PITA.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150113_175339_zpszxw5sxwn.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150113_175339_zpszxw5sxwn.jpg.html)

01-13-2015, 09:56 PM
Looks good!

01-13-2015, 10:00 PM
I was unsure about clearance but I said F it and welded it in anyways (welders at work, engine's at home). It clears the crank easily.

01-14-2015, 02:21 PM
Wow...I'm such a slacker! I've been putting off actually fabricating my baffles for over a year! DOH!

01-14-2015, 03:22 PM
They didn't take very long at all. I used some tin snips to cut the metal.

01-17-2015, 01:54 PM
The crown jewels. Now I just have to rent a torqueplate from Cindy and get some odds and ends and machine the block.http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150117_124249_zpsnup0zg1j.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150117_124249_zpsnup0zg1j.jpg.html)

01-24-2015, 06:48 PM
So I think I'm going to go with this intercooler http://www.siliconeintakes.com/front-mount-intercooler/top-to-bottom-intercooler-p-208.html My only concern is mounting it up. It seems like I would have to cut the center radiator support but it's already super flimsy as it is. Thoughts? Also, I can't figure out for the life of me why the drivers side headlamp bezel sits so far in. Hence the washers. it would seem like the rad support was pushed in on the drivers side but cant see damage anywhere lol. http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150124_162511_zpskvgonp8i.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150124_162511_zpskvgonp8i.jpg.html)

01-24-2015, 08:40 PM
So I think I'm going to go with this intercooler http://www.siliconeintakes.com/front-mount-intercooler/top-to-bottom-intercooler-p-208.html My only concern is mounting it up. It seems like I would have to cut the center radiator support but it's already super flimsy as it is. Thoughts? Also, I can't figure out for the life of me why the drivers side headlamp bezel sits so far in. Hence the washers. it would seem like the rad support was pushed in on the drivers side but cant see damage anywhere lol. http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150124_162511_zpskvgonp8i.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150124_162511_zpskvgonp8i.jpg.html)

hmm maybe something used to mount between there? have you checked the microfiche?

01-24-2015, 10:25 PM
What's a microfiche?

01-24-2015, 10:38 PM
What's a microfiche?

in olden times what the dealer would use to look up exploded views and part numbers..now its all digital

01-24-2015, 10:50 PM
in olden times what the dealer would use to look up exploded views and part numbers..now its all digitalLol. Yeah everything is online now. Too bad chrysler service info doesn't go back far enough for our cars. 1995 is pretty much as far back as dealerconnect will go. I think I will end up cutting that center support and find another way to reinforce the radiator support. I'm also going to properly shroud everything. Radiator, IC, and fan.

01-24-2015, 10:53 PM
Lol. Yeah everything is online now. Too bad chrysler service info doesn't go back far enough for our cars. 1995 is pretty much as far back as dealerconnect will go. I think I will end up cutting that center support and find another way to reinforce the radiator support. I'm also going to properly shroud everything. Radiator, IC, and fan.

I found all the fiches in PDF form a couple years ago online going back to something crazy like 1982 or whatever. I think they are still available:


Read the whole thread to figure out who has them backed up.

01-24-2015, 10:58 PM
Chrysler digitized everything from 81/82 and newer. Anything older is microfiche or paper.

01-31-2015, 03:21 PM
Pulled the engine out.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150131_133012_zpsvxb6gohc.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150131_133012_zpsvxb6gohc.jpg.html)
I think I figured out why my driver side headlight bucket sits so far back. Looks like the core support is tweaked a little on the drivers side. Damn those mud wasps too.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150131_133024_zpsl08vexmd.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150131_133024_zpsl08vexmd.jpg.html)
My clutch was starting to slip at one point..... This flywheel is for sale as well.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150131_134330_zpswwo7jysn.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150131_134330_zpswwo7jysn.jpg.html)

- - - Updated - - -

The next step is to take my t2 rods and pistons to the machine shop to see if I need to replace the bushings or not. After that, I will get the torque plate from cindy and have the block bored and honed.

02-03-2015, 08:09 PM
2.5" intercooler pipe kit. Not too shabby for $100.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150203_171812_zpsz3vnbows.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150203_171812_zpsz3vnbows.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150203_171838_zpslzmftydo.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150203_171838_zpslzmftydo.jpg.html)

02-04-2015, 07:53 PM
New intercooler from siliconeintakes.com. First impressions, not the highest quality piece but for the price it's acceptable. It doesn't look like it will leak or anything.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150204_182315_zps7xvafgtw.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150204_182315_zps7xvafgtw.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150204_182212_zpszem8jivr.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150204_182212_zpszem8jivr.jpg.html)

Compared to a stock I/C. The new one is 3.5" thick compared to 3" of the stock one.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150204_182336_zpsqvjhraz2.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150204_182336_zpsqvjhraz2.jpg.html)

02-07-2015, 02:35 PM
I'm basically going to use the intercooler to tie the top support and core support together. Then I am going to get some sheet metal and block all the areas that air can flow around the I/C and radiator. Preliminary mockup.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150207_131244_zps9nagptr1.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150207_131244_zps9nagptr1.jpg.html)

02-20-2015, 05:54 PM
Smoothed out the oil feed hole a little bit. Didn't go crazy with it. Once I get the torque plate from cindy it's off to the machine shop.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150220_150359_zpswvtcxoj2.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150220_150359_zpswvtcxoj2.jpg.html)

- - - Updated - - -

Blocked the BS feed hole.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150220_150406_zpsb3tlarnu.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150220_150406_zpsb3tlarnu.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150220_150948_zpscfpixeyp.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150220_150948_zpscfpixeyp.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150220_164752_zpsaflstjjd.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150220_164752_zpsaflstjjd.jpg.html)

02-25-2015, 09:49 PM
I had a hell of a time getting this last bit of dipstick tube out of the block.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150223_165550_zps9hiezxea.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150223_165550_zps9hiezxea.jpg.html)
I may or may not put this to use.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150223_164119_zpsdnxkhjlb.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150223_164119_zpsdnxkhjlb.jpg.html)

02-26-2015, 03:46 PM
Oil coolers are something I believe should be mandatory on any turbo engine. The only thing that worries me about these sandwich water/oil ones is if it leaks between the systems. It doesn't matter which way it leaks...either would be BAD! Having said that...I don't think that's too big of an issue. I have only seen a few rotted through heat exchangers in properly maintained systems.

02-26-2015, 06:22 PM
I have only seen 1 oil-water cooler fail. That was in a Cummins. I like them for the fact that they warm the oil to operating temp much faster. This one was removed from a 3.8l minivan. There must be a reason that most OEM oil coolers are oil-water. I'm not sure if cost plays a role. My old neon leaked oil in the coolant and ( but coolant never went into the oil) it never had any issues. My theory is that oil runs at a much higher pressure so it will go into coolant and not vice versa.

02-28-2015, 03:32 PM
Right, the oil system does operate at a higher pressure, but when the engine isn't running the coolant system is at a higher pressure. So when the engine isn't running the coolant has the opportunity to leak into the oil. Because of liquid surface tension and such this may or may not actually happen (pending the size of the hole, too).

I would think that the cost of engineering a whole separate system to deal with oil cooling is much more costly to develop than increasing the already present cooling system capacity and the making the heat exchanger.

02-28-2015, 09:38 PM
I thought that too. When you turn the engine off the cooling system still has pressure so it should go in the oil but it never did in my neon. The cap was fine so it did hold pressure.

03-12-2015, 11:42 PM
Intercooler mounted up for good. Fits perfectly with the grille. The center grille tab just barely touches the IC. The top rad support is solid as a rock now too.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150312_185030_zpsea7wh3vn.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150312_185030_zpsea7wh3vn.jpg.html)

03-13-2015, 12:57 AM
That looks good!

03-21-2015, 07:30 PM
Got my block and rods back from the machine shop. I fitted the rings but put some small marks on a cylinder wall. I wonder if I should do a quick hone.

04-02-2015, 06:42 PM
Bottom end is assembled.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150402_143530_zpsvtlmtxt2.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150402_143530_zpsvtlmtxt2.jpg.html)
Did the later common block turbo engines come with a oil distribution block like the old ones? Mine won't fit because it's smaller.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150402_180457_zpsqoh8frqx.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150402_180457_zpsqoh8frqx.jpg.html)

04-02-2015, 08:09 PM
Like the build! I too am using the honda radiator, and my intercooler is similar, only "xs power". That little car should be a blast. If you wind up needing a distribution block, I have one from an 89 2.5t I could let go for shipping. Keep up the good work

04-02-2015, 08:41 PM
Here is a pic of mine, I know my sensor on the right is 1/8NPT, dwarfed by the block's inlet. Having a hard time with pics- does this pic help? http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/image.php?u=12067&dateline=1428021398&type=profile

04-13-2015, 08:07 PM
It's starting to look like an engine.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150413_184325_zps1zczkkqp.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150413_184325_zps1zczkkqp.jpg.html)
My oil feed fitting is too small for the oil block I found in my shed. Is there an adapter or something I can run? I tried unscrewing that but I'm pretty sure it's part of the block. Or will the feed line reach another hole maybe? I haven't tried that.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150413_183110_zpsb6ybq9rd.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150413_183110_zpsb6ybq9rd.jpg.html)

04-14-2015, 06:55 PM
I think this will work fine.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150414_181816_zpsjs4nfhv6.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150414_181816_zpsjs4nfhv6.jpg.html)

04-15-2015, 08:13 PM
More or less how the turbo drain is going to sit.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150415_183811_zpsj4vkg8dm.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150415_183811_zpsj4vkg8dm.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150415_183802_zps2dj3zbvj.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150415_183802_zps2dj3zbvj.jpg.html)

05-15-2015, 07:26 PM
So I finally after months of being lazy grabbed the engine crane from work so I can install my flywheel and clutch and drop the engine in the car. I get the engine in the air and I was about to put the flywheel on when I noticed how very little amount of threads there were. I then searched on here and found out mtx cars have longer damn flywheel bolts than the auto cars (this engine was in an auto daytona). Needless to say I'm not very happy right now lol. Going to go to my work tomorrow and see what the ETA is on some flywheel bolts if they are even available.

05-21-2015, 09:39 PM
Had to remove the swinvalve to get the engine in the car but one of the bolts snapped .http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150519_194650_zpsizopn3eb.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150519_194650_zpsizopn3eb.jpg.html)

06-07-2015, 07:10 PM
Getting somewhere.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150607_161945_zpsvoder1nk.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150607_161945_zpsvoder1nk.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150607_162004_zpsek0ti7uk.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150607_162004_zpsek0ti7uk.jpg.html)

06-08-2015, 11:02 PM
Intercooler pipes are easier than I thought they would be.http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150608_174751_zpstsebeluc.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150608_174751_zpstsebeluc.jpg.html)

06-10-2015, 09:42 PM
Tubes used: 1 u-bend for the upper and 2 45* bends for the lower. I have a ton of pipes, clamps and couplers left over.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150610_185855_zpstywghn2p.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150610_185855_zpstywghn2p.jpg.html)

06-13-2015, 03:12 PM
This silicone t hose worked out pretty good.http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150613_150415_zpsvewqliad.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150613_150415_zpsvewqliad.jpg.html)

06-17-2015, 09:09 PM
Kind of ghetto but it should work. I like the fact that it's hard to tell that it's a fmic.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150617_202752_zpshrp78joa.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150617_202752_zpshrp78joa.jpg.html)

06-19-2015, 09:36 PM
Re did the BOV flange. This is much nicer.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150619_203145_zpsfe1whpqt.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150619_203145_zpsfe1whpqt.jpg.html)

07-03-2015, 08:47 PM
I think I will have to go to a custom overflow bottle. http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150703_202857_zpswpzyzeeh.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150703_202857_zpswpzyzeeh.jpg.html)http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150703_202904_zpssko0dsip.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150703_202904_zpssko0dsip.jpg.html)

07-04-2015, 06:31 AM
Haven't checked this thread in a while. Car is looking good! Nice work.

07-06-2015, 10:40 PM
Thank you sir. I built an overflow bottle since the oe bottle is in the way of the air filter. It's a 32oz nalogene bottle. I filled the oe bottle to the max line and measured it at about 20oz. The big fitting has a hose inside that goes to the bottom. The little fitting is the vent.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150706_190914_zpsuflpuvts.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150706_190914_zpsuflpuvts.jpg.html)http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150706_190932_zpsy1togbfv.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150706_190932_zpsy1togbfv.jpg.html)http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150706_191047_zpsiimqsvrh.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150706_191047_zpsiimqsvrh.jpg.html)

07-09-2015, 07:05 PM
Installed my freshly painted grille and headlight buckets. I love how the intercooler is pretty stealth.http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150709_182619_zpsdbmitily.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150709_182619_zpsdbmitily.jpg.html)http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150709_182824_zpsascia2jx.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150709_182824_zpsascia2jx.jpg.html)
The 3 core civic radiator is pretty tight. I need to get the lower outlet cut off and welded in a different position. I hope my shroud that's on the way clears the oil filter.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150709_182557_zpszgtvdqzi.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150709_182557_zpszgtvdqzi.jpg.html)http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150709_182550_zps88slfk9m.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150709_182550_zps88slfk9m.jpg.html)

07-09-2015, 07:20 PM
Grill looks great. What paint did you use?

07-09-2015, 08:17 PM
Krylon dual superbond satin black. My buddy tested a bunch of different spray paints and this one most closely matches the OEM color. My grille was a NOS silver non GLH grille.

07-09-2015, 08:23 PM
Nice! Second time I've heard props for the krylon brand.

07-09-2015, 08:24 PM
When i get a new hood vent (mine is cracked), i will paint it too. I'm even thinking of doing the bumpers as well. Can't look any worse than they do now.

07-10-2015, 01:16 PM
I've been thinking about my bumpers as they look very similar to yours. I have had excellent luck with VHT satin black epoxy paint. Lays down smooth, very durable and not very run prone. That is my current plan for my bumpers as I had originally thought of powder coating but at this point I just need my car to run and look half decent.

07-15-2015, 03:09 PM
Got my radiator outlet moved.http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150715_145947_zpsxlogybhf.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150715_145947_zpsxlogybhf.jpg.html)

07-15-2015, 09:00 PM
Car is pretty much done. All I have left to do is add coolant and I'm waiting on my SMEC. Eventually I'm going to rethink the upper rad mount but this will do for now. I still have to add one lower rad mount but I need to get it running and do it at work because I don't have a welder.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150715_200436_zpszyvtwy0t.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150715_200436_zpszyvtwy0t.jpg.html)

I think I will have to undo the upper rad mount to change the oil filter LOL.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150715_191302_zpsk2h1jf52.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150715_191302_zpsk2h1jf52.jpg.html)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20150715_201320_zpsm0o96xm6.jpg (http://s272.photobucket.com/user/thedon809/media/IMG_20150715_201320_zpsm0o96xm6.jpg.html)

07-16-2015, 07:30 AM
If changing the oil filter is an issue, you could use a GLHS oil filter
My car's build is nearly identical to yours and that's what I'm using

07-16-2015, 08:21 AM
If its too much of a pain to change it that's probably the route I will go. I just hate to loose the extra capacity.

07-16-2015, 09:18 AM
Any concern that with the upper radiator hose being completely straight, there will not be enough flex for engine movement?

07-16-2015, 09:38 AM
Any concern that with the upper radiator hose being completely straight, there will not be enough flex for engine movement?

That would be a concern of mine also.

07-16-2015, 06:30 PM
It looks like its straight in the picture but its curved. It's a cut up stock upper hose. I filled it up and it took right at 2 gallons total. Specs are hard to find but it seems OEM capacity for most our cars is around 9-9.5 quarts including the overflow bottle. So its pretty close in capacity to the OE setup.

07-20-2015, 06:52 PM
The smurf LIVES AGAIN!!! I got my boostbutton cal today (thanks rob) and fired it up. It started up and runs pretty good considering it has year old gas in it. I let it idle but to my dismay the oil pressure light kept flickering when it got kind of warmed up. I used the combination warning light and gauge oil pressure unit from the TBI engine. Suffice to say I was pretty sad. So just to eliminate the sensor as a possibility I swapped in the old single oil pressure switch from the old engine. I ghetto rigged a wire to it from the 2 way connector and the oil light no longer flickers. I know this switch works because I ran it in the old engine for well over a year. After fixing that I noticed the coolant temp creep up and fan was not coming on. Apparently I forgot to plug in the single wire connector going to the relay. Fan works now. I went for a little drive down the street. All went well except it's still a little hot. I gave it maybe 1/3 throttle and hit maybe 3 psi in this 120* heat index weather and it already feels like a monster. Only weird thing that happened is the power loss light came on for a second or 2 when I let off the throttle after boosting it. I parked it and am going to see if I still have air in the coolant system. Once I work out the bugs and break it in I can't wait until I'm running 18+ psi.

07-21-2015, 02:25 PM
If you have oil pressure problems, PUT A MECHANICAL GAUGE ON IT. Hot idle when the fan kicked on in 110 weather using 10w30 was 15psi. Blip the throttle and it hits 55psi. The low oil light was coming on at 16psi.