Right cam seal gloop?

[RoadWarrior222]

Hey folks,

What do I need to get a cam seal to stay in? It's in a Ford, got the felpro one in a kit when I redid the head, but it's been seeping oil ever since it went back together. FSM says install dry, haynes says install dry, etc etc... so I did, despite the old one having some red stuff around it...

So I'm looking at Permatex Anaerobic Sealant, and it's saying it's for use between hard parts only???

So what is the right gloop to use on these? I've ordered the Ford part for this try.

I'm losing about a quart per 1-2000 miles, which doesn't sound like a lot until your belts spray it all round the engine bay and it drips off in your driveway. I was wondering if I had pressure issues under the valve cover, but the PCV system seems to be working right, but it pulls from the bottom end on this. The vent is ahead of the air filter and hooked to the valvecover, doesn't seem to be getting messy or anything.

So what kind of sealant am I looking for if that permatex stuff isn't right, or will it do?

thanks,

RW222

[Orangetona]

I would say the ultra black rtv would be good. Not using a lot obviously, that stuff seems to work pretty nice.

(Not sure if its 'correct' for the vehicle but the stuff works good)

[86Shelby]

I have had excellent results using anerobic sealant on seals which have a rubber surround like the 2.2 cam seals. Denitely use anerobic on seals where there is a parting line similar to our cam seals. On a metal seals I do not use any sealant since the green/blue film on the outside is a sealant.

[Orangetona]

I have had excellent results using anerobic sealant on seals which have a rubber surround like the 2.2 cam seals. Denitely use anerobic on seals where there is a parting line similar to our cam seals. On a metal seals I do not use any sealant since the green/blue film on the outside is a sealant.

I do agree with you there, I forgot about the anerobic stuff. It seems as if it wouldnt need anything, but the ultra black rtv should do the trick too, I bet.

[Johnny]

YES, anerobic sealant is the correct stuff.

[zin]

Looked for this stuff at O-Riley's this weekend... Dude didn't even know what I was talking about...

Mike

[turbovanman²]

I would say the ultra black rtv would be good. Not using a lot obviously, that stuff seems to work pretty nice.

(Not sure if its 'correct' for the vehicle but the stuff works good)

Don't use that, its push's the seal out while drying.

Anerobic is the goop to use.

[Orangetona]

Don't use that, its push's the seal out while drying.

Anerobic is the goop to use.

Gotcha.

[black86glhs]

Anerobic is the proper stuff, however I have used the rear axle sealant for things like this. You can put a thin layer over the edges of the cam cap and the seal to help it from popping out too.

[RoadWarrior222]

Well it's in... snapped the timing belt cover :( hearing more whine, not sure if it's just the cover being off, whether the seal is bedding in, or whether that stupidass tensioner bearing is going out AGAIN.

Managed to use some real unquality parts on this car, felpro valvecover gasket was wayyyy too rigid, the 3 little bolts with 6ftlb toque spec couldn't compress it any, leaked like hell. Got the ford part, almost felt sticky, a LOT different than the felpro part.

The wires are blowing holes everywhere :( Bosch "premium quality" for ya... :banghead:

By the way control arm stub strut washers are great for making seal pushers, with appropriate section of fence post.

[turbovanman²]

Get Aurora wires, NUFF said.

[RoadWarrior222]

Get Aurora wires, NUFF said.

So, you got 'em for a '95 Escort 1.9? These look like twiglets now with blobs of liquid tape all over them. Ran smoother though.

[RoadWarrior222]

CARNAGE!!!!1111oneone....

Provocative maintenance strikes again....

So I went on a 120 mile each way jaunt overnight, all seemed great the way up, and a check before driving back showed nothing amiss.... there was still that funny little whine I didn't like... got back into town, had to go to the grocery store, straight there off the highway.... got in, drove out the parking lot, and I hear screee cack-cacackcack-cack screeeeeee... and the noise stops again... drive cautiously towards home about a mile away, starts screeching again, smell burning rubber... on and off a bit over the couple of minutes it takes to get home, pull in the driveway it's like there's a fog machine under the hood, damn that crap stinks....

What appears to have happened is that the cambelt tensioner pulley bearing has crapped out. It was getting a nice bath of oil while I had it dripping down the side of the block all the time.... 240 miles without any seems to have killed it. Also, since the cambelt was used when I retensioned it after pulling the cam gear... it probably got more pressure on it, than it was seeing after last being tensioned on a new belt (which goes a touch slacker) So the back of the belt is nice and melted, and it threw it off sideways into what was left of the timing cover...

Well I'm very happy that that happened real close to home, but severely annoyed at the tensioner dying. Think I'm going to look at putting a good bearing in it.

[black86glhs]

CARNAGE!!!!1111oneone....

Provocative maintenance strikes again....

So I went on a 120 mile each way jaunt overnight, all seemed great the way up, and a check before driving back showed nothing amiss.... there was still that funny little whine I didn't like... got back into town, had to go to the grocery store, straight there off the highway.... got in, drove out the parking lot, and I hear screee cack-cacackcack-cack screeeeeee... and the noise stops again... drive cautiously towards home about a mile away, starts screeching again, smell burning rubber... on and off a bit over the couple of minutes it takes to get home, pull in the driveway it's like there's a fog machine under the hood, damn that crap stinks....

What appears to have happened is that the cambelt tensioner pulley bearing has crapped out. It was getting a nice bath of oil while I had it dripping down the side of the block all the time.... 240 miles without any seems to have killed it. Also, since the cambelt was used when I retensioned it after pulling the cam gear... it probably got more pressure on it, than it was seeing after last being tensioned on a new belt (which goes a touch slacker) So the back of the belt is nice and melted, and it threw it off sideways into what was left of the timing cover...

Well I'm very happy that that happened real close to home, but severely annoyed at the tensioner dying. Think I'm going to look at putting a good bearing in it.

You learn quick.:clap:

:lol::lol:

[RoadWarrior222]

Forking typical....

There's a cam kit with a new tensioner, but nowhere around me has them in stock, which means I can't see if it's one of the craptastic ones that caused the issue in the first place. I never liked the looks of the ones I was seeing when shopping for the complete waterpump assembly and ended up with what I did to get it done. Ford stealer will sell me just a tensioner for arm+leg+leftnut+firstborn+grandmother. Not getting within reasonable range of RockAuto prices either, which is annoying...

[RoadWarrior222]

So I have the old waterpump + tensioner that I changed out a couple of years back because the tensioner was a little noisy, I didn't know then that the tensioners were available separately, in fact the parts guys probably told me they weren't. Also it was a high mileage motor and I had no clue when anything was last "done" so while I was in there I just swapped everything out...

Anyhoo, had the old parts, waterpump seemed useable still after I got it off. Just pulled apart the tensioner off that. It was a little grumbly in use which was why it came out. However, that one was the high quality bearing. I'm inspecting it, and it has no side/side play, the plastic cover on one end was crumbly and it might have been some of that which got in it and made it rumble, the balls don't look pitted up, the grease was hard and nearly gone though. I'm thinking I'm gonna clean this out, pack it with moly grease and slap a disk of soda can over the end for protection and try it to see how it runs....

Found a used timing belt I had, not sure which it is, think I've bought two, one when I did the pump and one when I did the head, this hasn't got the print worn off the back of it, so probably not a high mile one....

Half of this is trying to be as cheap as possible since I seem to be chronically short of cash all the time, and half of it is thinking that I may as well because I'm gonna get crap at the parts stores round here anyway, so will see how this runs, and when I next go yarding I'll collect a few or something, or order a Ford one from somewhere less expensive than the local dealer.

[RoadWarrior222]

More crap parts! Goodyear gatorback serpentine belt practically fell apart when I took it off, that's been on only around a year.... had to stick a used spare on it...

So it's running again with the cleaned out and relubed ford tensioner, bit of noise, not sure whether it's that tin cover I made rattling. Its got all used belts on too, which doesn't help diagnosis, they looked serviceable and I can't remember whether they were noisy when I took them off, or whether it was purely "While I'm doing X I'll put a new belt on too"

I had goodyear down as a possible for the tensioner kit with timing belt, being able to get one locally, but scratched 'em now, don't want a timing belt flying apart in another year.

Soooo, tensioner that came out had it's ballrace assplode, 3 balls missing, cage bent up... I had to "brush the car's teeth" to get all the molten rubber out.

Not sure how long any of this is good for, I'm hoping long enough that I can source quality loose bearing units locally so I can press a new one into one of the tensioners. I think I need something rated to about 10,000 rpm since it's a tad smaller than the crank gear and I can get that motor up to 7,500.

[RoadWarrior222]

Think I'm gonna go for the Gates parts, limited lifetime warranty, and they engineer for OEMs so their tensioner can't be too crappy.

[RoadWarrior222]

Got the kit, belt made in USA, tensioner made in Korea. Glad it wasn't China, and Korean stuff in general has been pretty good over the last 10 years, but slightly disappointing..