what clutch to get?

[JohnnyIroc]

Its my DD, 2.2 T4 with small spline 568
all im going to have done to the car is green top injectors, AFPR and a BB cal
i don't want a stocker,
i want something that will last
but also not kill my left leg in traffic
here is what im looking at

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=97_164&products_id=180&osCsid=a6f8e0917a733b2206fd25478986a909 (http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=97_164&products_id=180&osCsid=a6f8e0917a733b2206fd25478986a909)

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=333
(http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=333)
give me your thoughts and opinions!

[shadow88]

Any idea how much torque the engine makes? Also, when reading the description in those links, TU suggests you call them first before placing an order.

What's wrong with a stock clutch?

[Lotashelbys]

This is about all you would need for a clutch for that thing.
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=350&osCsid=a6f8e0917a733b2206fd25478986a909

I have a 6 puck yellow in one of my cars and its not that different than stock feel.

[JohnnyIroc]

This is about all you would need for a clutch for that thing.
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=350&osCsid=a6f8e0917a733b2206fd25478986a909

I have a 6 puck yellow in one of my cars and its not that different than stock feel.

i was thinking stage 2 is all i need but didnt really think of getting a 6 puck

[Juggy]

iif u ever plan to bolt up a set of slicks on that car, do not get the organic or kevlar clutch!

[JohnnyIroc]

iif u ever plan to bolt up a set of slicks on that car, do not get the organic or kevlar clutch!

thank you for letting me know, why is that?
i was planning on running some DRs when i took it to the track

[MiniMopar]

The Kevlar clutches can "glaze" over when super-heated like an organic will. However an organic can recover after some time of normal use while Kevlars don't seem to. At least, this is what I have heard.

I have the TU street/strip Kevlar clutch in my Daytona. I bought it as a compromise to the ceramic because I wanted something that would last and would have smoother engagement. Overall, the clutch has been OK but I won't be getting another. The engagement is smoother than a ceramic when engaged at higher RPM, but it is very chattery in heavy trafic and especially while backing-up. I also had problems with warping in very heavy traffic...to the point where it would not disengage until it cooled down for a while. A few other people had this same problem. The last holdout for it would have been durability, but I think it is about done at 30k miles or so...same as my last ceramic.

Next clutch will be a 6-puck.

[JohnnyIroc]

The Kevlar clutches can "glaze" over when super-heated like an organic will. However an organic can recover after some time of normal use while Kevlars don't seem to. At least, this is what I have heard.

I have the TU street/strip Kevlar clutch in my Daytona. I bought it as a compromise to the ceramic because I wanted something that would last and would have smoother engagement. Overall, the clutch has been OK but I won't be getting another. The engagement is smoother than a ceramic when engaged at higher RPM, but it is very chattery in heavy trafic and especially while backing-up. I also had problems with warping in very heavy traffic...to the point where it would not disengage until it cooled down for a while. A few other people had this same problem. The last holdout for it would have been durability, but I think it is about done at 30k miles or so...same as my last ceramic.

Next clutch will be a 6-puck.

Awesome thanks for the info!
are you going to go with the street N Strip 6 puck?

[Juggy]

Kevlar material is good for long life...but its not a performance material, when it gets hot it Will slip and does not recover well from heat. so once you get it glazed up you might as well shop for another clutch ;)

ive run 4 puck ceramic discs, centerforce, T2/T3 combo....and my current favorite the mcleod rev-lok 6 puck. its currently being run with a custom PP i had made up for the car which is a beefed up T3 PP with extra straps and clamping force.

the rev lok is also nice because when you want to give it a cleaning, just slap it in the media blaster, and you have a clutch that is brand new again :D

[MiniMopar]

Awesome thanks for the info!
are you going to go with the street N Strip 6 puck?

Probably something like that. Oh, and I have the blue PP on the Kevlar. Ever since it got chilly here it's been slipping in high gear, mid RPM situations and seems to be getting worse. I don't know if I overpowered that once and now it is glazed or if the PP is reaching its maximum extension. I thought it might be a problem with the questionable cable, but it hasn't improved.

I also have TU's older "dual friction" clutch that was made by McLeod and was organic on one side and ceramic on the other. It's a small spline, though, so it's going into the CSX. I never really got any feedback on that one, so we'll see how it goes.

[BadAssPerformance]

For durability and longevity a full disk organic is better than pucks... the pucks chew up the flywheel and plate pretty hard

[MiniMopar]

Yeah, but they don't hold...so what choice is there?

[BadAssPerformance]

Yeah, but they don't hold...so what choice is there?

Not even with a heavy plate?

[Juggy]

For durability and longevity a full disk organic is better than pucks... the pucks chew up the flywheel and plate pretty hard

ive logged 20-30k on my cars with the fidanza flywheel and ceramic clutch....it doesnt eat as muff as you'd think it would :eyebrows:




:p

[BadAssPerformance]

Which puck clutch was it? The bronze looking pucks (4-puck) took .010" off each the flywheel and plate in less than 10k miles in my Shadow.

[Juggy]

Which puck clutch was it? The bronze looking pucks (4-puck) took .010" off each the flywheel and plate in less than 10k miles in my Shadow.

yeah it was a ceramic bronze looking one. came from eurodrive.

i will have to measure the step in my flywheel next time the trans is seperated....last time i had my revlok out was just over a year ago as i smashed the PP up and just slapped in a centerforce PP right at the track so i could race the next morning again.

i took the centerforc eout and went to a eurodrive PP at the beginning of the year....but only got a hundred or so miles on it...

[jory]

If all he is doing is +20 injectors and a tune, wouldnt the T2/T3 clutch suffice? A DD doesnt really need a racing clutch.

[MiniMopar]

If all he is doing is +20 injectors and a tune, wouldnt the T2/T3 clutch suffice? A DD doesnt really need a racing clutch.

I dunno...they aren't what they used to be. I think pressure plates have gone the way of many parts for our cars. In the end there can only be one. :) The T3 clutch I put in my CSX back in '99 or so was awesome (made from dealer parts). I eventually had to replace it because the springs in the disc were squished all to heck. I replaced with a T2/T3 hybrid (from Relentless Performance) and it did not hold. It was "OK" on the street as long as I didn't launch it too hard. At the track it was useless, even with street tires. I did switch trannies, so maybe that played a part. The motor and cal did not change.

Maybe with a purple PP it would be better, but I really don't think organic materials can take the heat. Has anyone ever tried an organic disc with one of these highly-modifed PPs?

[4 l-bodies]

........Maybe with a purple PP it would be better, but I really don't think organic materials can take the heat. Has anyone ever tried an organic disc with one of these highly-modified PPs?
Russ, according to Chris @ TU he does not recommend mixing and matching disks from other companies with his PP's because of the altered fulcrum points on his PP's.
The SPEC clutches also use the altered fulcrum so I would think the same could be said for them. When they alter the fulcrum they get less lift, so if you were to try that, I would shoot for a disk with approx the same thickness as a TU or SPEC disk. With the less lift also comes another issue, that being the runout or wobble of the disk. The aftermarket seems to be flooded currently with hubs that have way too much runout. At least in the large spline variety. I've had an auto to clutch transplant that has been put on hold for the last several months because of this very issue.
Todd

[BadAssPerformance]

Russ, according to Chris @ TU he does not recommend mixing and matching disks from other companies with his PP's because of the altered fulcrum points on his PP's.
The SPEC clutches also use the altered fulcrum so I would think the same could be said for them. When they alter the fulcrum they get less lift, so if you were to try that, I would shoot for a disk with approx the same thickness as a TU or SPEC disk. With the less lift also comes another issue, that being the runout or wobble of the disk. The aftermarket seems to be flooded currently with hubs that have way too much runout. At least in the large spline variety. I've had an auto to clutch transplant that has been put on hold for the last several months because of this very issue.
Todd

+1 for matching thicknesses. I had a custom plate made years ago that didnt work well with the disk it came with so I had a custom thickness one made.

[MiniMopar]

Yes the reduced lift is a problem, even for the clutch I have right now. I can "feel" the run out through the horrible chattering when slowly engaging it from a dead stop. My thoughts at this point are...if I'm going to deal with chattery engagement and a short life span anyway, why mess around with Kevlar? The only advantage might be flywheel wear.

JT, you mentioned PP wear. Does anyone here ever actually reuse pressure plates (having them reground, obviously)? I have always replaced them assuming that the springs are probably tired and increasing the clearance will reduce the life of the new disc anyway.

[DodgeZ]

For durability and longevity a full disk organic is better than pucks... the pucks chew up the flywheel and plate pretty hard

I recommend puck clutches to people I don't like.


Yes the reduced lift is a problem, even for the clutch I have right now. I can "feel" the run out through the horrible chattering when slowly engaging it from a dead stop. My thoughts at this point are...if I'm going to deal with chattery engagement and a short life span anyway, why mess around with Kevlar? The only advantage might be flywheel wear.

JT, you mentioned PP wear. Does anyone here ever actually reuse pressure plates (having them reground, obviously)? I have always replaced them assuming that the springs are probably tired and increasing the clearance will reduce the life of the new disc anyway.

Why mess around with Kevlar? They seem to hold up pretty good. In my SRT I run a clutch master FX300
http://www.clutchmasters.com/index.php?module=site&action=GetPage&id=17
and I cut 1.7's and have trapped 97mph in the 1/8 mile with it. The puck clutches I have had didn't seem to last 20k miles before the chew up the PP and flywheel past being usable. They hold better but who wants to do a clutch job every year? Not me.

I have a "TU Ultimate Kevlar Street n' Strip Clutch Kit (Stage IV)" clutch in my CSX right now. Not pushing much power right now but it sucks for a DD. I just started DD'ing the car a couple weeks ago. It seems to be getting better but my left leg is now twice the size of my right leg. Chris told me if the clutch doesn't hold he would swap the disk for a 6 puck. I would rather turn the power down then run a puck clutch.

[MiniMopar]

I recommend puck clutches to people I don't like.

Why mess around with Kevlar? They seem to hold up pretty good. In my SRT I run a clutch master FX300
http://www.clutchmasters.com/index.php?module=site&action=GetPage&id=17
and I cut 1.7's and have trapped 97mph in the 1/8 mile with it. The puck clutches I have had didn't seem to last 20k miles before the chew up the PP and flywheel past being usable. They hold better but who wants to do a clutch job every year? Not me.

I have a "TU Ultimate Kevlar Street n' Strip Clutch Kit (Stage IV)" clutch in my CSX right now. Not pushing much power right now but it sucks for a DD. I just started DD'ing the car a couple weeks ago. It seems to be getting better but my left leg is now twice the size of my right leg. Chris told me if the clutch doesn't hold he would swap the disk for a 6 puck. I would rather turn the power down then run a puck clutch.

Ummm...I'm confused by this argument. You say the Kevlar is great in your SRT, but that is a different platform and a different clutch design. Then you say you have a TU one in your CSX and that you don't like it. I guess because of the PP?

What I have right now is probably equivalent to the "TU Ultimate Kevlar Street n' Strip Clutch Kit (Stage II)". He didn't have the yellow or purple pressure plates back in '06/'07 when I got it. I just looked at my notes and I have at least 30k on it (maybe a bit more). It is done...I can barely get more than 5psi of boost before it slips now. It is either glazed really badly or worn out. I'm thinking the latter given that the clutch adjuster has payed out nearly all of its slack.

So what was that about longevity? I even had the flywheel done at a shop and told them that it had to be a smooth, stone-ground finish per Chris' instructions. The finish was about the same as the PP surface...nice and smooth.

I had a 6-puck in the CSX and got about 35k out of it. It was grabby and could be chattery, but it did not slip no matter how much I tortured it...even after it was already chewing on the rivets. Yeah it did trash the flywheel tho.

I'm just not seeing the advantages, sorry.

[BadAssPerformance]

JT, you mentioned PP wear. Does anyone here ever actually reuse pressure plates (having them reground, obviously)? I have always replaced them assuming that the springs are probably tired and increasing the clearance will reduce the life of the new disc anyway.

My point wasnt "re-use" as much as "reduced life span".

...but yes, I have reused plates in the past. I have an old RPM turbo clutch plate that would probably still work great with a new disk!

[4 l-bodies]

I have not had good luck with kevlar or carbon fiber. They just don't seem to hold in our application for HP/torque motors. These where with strong RPS blue PP's on 11 second car.
I've driven some 4 and 6 puck spring hubs that have surprisingly good manners. Friend of mine just installed a SPEC3+ ($500+) which is a full faced ceramic-metallic (some people call that feramic) that was supposed to be the best of both worlds. Pedal pressure was very soft. Honda civic soft (lol). So far so good, but it too, was a little chattery pulling away from stoplights. I'm guessing probably from excessive runout. It was not checked. I think the runout contributes tremendously to the chatter and bad street manners that some people are experiencing with agressive disks.
I have a Revlock in one of my cars and it stands up to whatever abuse I will give it, BUT it has very poor street manners. Reverse is almost a on-off switch. It really takes the fun out of driving the car for me. Looking to change that out if I can find something better. SPEC 3+ is showing promise, but too early to tell yet. Unfortunately at $500+ it is out of lots of peoples budget.
Todd

[DodgeZ]

Ummm...I'm confused by this argument. You say the Kevlar is great in your SRT, but that is a different platform and a different clutch design. Then you say you have a TU one in your CSX and that you don't like it. I guess because of the PP?
Ah yes, the kevlar clutch in my srt is totally different then the kevlar clutch in the CSX. I got the SRT's clutch from the moon. LOL. The TOB is the main difference from the SRT and the CSX. The hydraulic TOB makes it easy to push in the heavy PP where as cable clutch doesn't.



What I have right now is probably equivalent to the "TU Ultimate Kevlar Street n' Strip Clutch Kit (Stage II)". He didn't have the yellow or purple pressure plates back in '06/'07 when I got it. I just looked at my notes and I have at least 30k on it (maybe a bit more). It is done...I can barely get more than 5psi of boost before it slips now. It is either glazed really badly or worn out. I'm thinking the latter given that the clutch adjuster has payed out nearly all of its slack.

I can't speak for your clutch or how it has been driven. My understanding is that kevlar is that suppose to last twice as long normal clutch? I got right at 10k miles with my t3 PP and 4 puck clutch and a hair over 20k with a clutchmaster 6 puck in the SRT. I forget if it was a TU or FWD 4 puck clutch. The clutch would just free rev in 5th. This was in a L body with 370wtq.

I think you could get 100k miles on a puck clutch. If you only drive it on the highway. The engaging is what chews it up. Slipping it to get the car rolling does them in. It is like a grinding stone on your PP/flywheel. If you are in lots of heavy traffic it is really going to tax the puck. If you hit two lights and have a 30 miles highway driving with no stops from traffic on your drive to work you'll get a lot of miles out of it. If your drive to work is like mine and it takes 20 minutes to go 5 miles and have to engage the clutch 50 times to make it to work and back... The puck is going to die before the year is over.



So what was that about longevity? I even had the flywheel done at a shop and told them that it had to be a smooth, stone-ground finish per Chris' instructions. The finish was about the same as the PP surface...nice and smooth.

Maybe you just got a junky kevlar clutch? I know some of the first runs of the TU products need to be refined. Maybe the specs weren't right? Don't know.


I had a 6-puck in the CSX and got about 35k out of it. It was grabby and could be chattery, but it did not slip no matter how much I tortured it...even after it was already chewing on the rivets. Yeah it did trash the flywheel tho.

I'm just not seeing the advantages, sorry.

your mileage may vary (your mileage may vary LOL :D )

[MiniMopar]

Ah yes, the kevlar clutch in my srt is totally different then the kevlar clutch in the CSX. I got the SRT's clutch from the moon. LOL. The TOB is the main difference from the SRT and the CSX. The hydraulic TOB makes it easy to push in the heavy PP where as cable clutch doesn't.

The pad design on the TU Kevlar disc looks bizarre to me. Does the SRT one look like that?


I can't speak for your clutch or how it has been driven. My understanding is that kevlar is that suppose to last twice as long normal clutch? ...The engaging is what chews it up. Slipping it to get the car rolling does them in.

Yes, of course. The trip to work and back is 20 miles each way and is a mix of highway and surface streets. I've been working in this location for 7 years and the 6-puck and Kevlar clutches were used during that time. It's a pretty close comparison and the longevity difference is not impressive. The Daytona is a bit heavier, but not by a huge amount. They are both 2.2L and have 3.50:1 FDs. The Daytona has a bigger turbo S70, which should work in the clutch's favor (more lag).

I do thrash on my cars quite a bit, but I abuse them pretty equally. :)

[DodgeZ]

The pad design on the TU Kevlar disc looks bizarre to me. Does the SRT one look like that?



http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/images/Puple%20Kevlar.jpg

http://www.clutchmasters.com/static/content/kit3.jpg

[Mudman]

So what clutch would you guys recommend for a fairly stock DD? Say FWD Stage 3 cal, 15psi, free flowing exhaust? Next time I do a clutch I want it to last 100K miles or so, I'm not taking my car to the strip I just need a good DD city driving clutch.

[BadAssPerformance]

So what clutch would you guys recommend for a fairly stock DD? Say FWD Stage 3 cal, 15psi, free flowing exhaust? Next time I do a clutch I want it to last 100K miles or so, I'm not taking my car to the strip I just need a good DD city driving clutch.

What kind / How heavy of a car? What turbo? What clutch is in it now and how is it working?

[Mudman]

'89 Lancer Shelby, Stock turbo. I just put a clutch disc in that I bought from somebody, barely used. My funds were tight from rebuilding the motor so I had to go this route for now, I believe it's a Sachs unit. Reused the original PP for now. I'm still breaking in the motor and the clutch holds great so far (only at 7psi right now). But when I need a new clutch I'm gonna be getting a bran new PP/Clutch combo. Any suggestions?

[Shadow]

I have a "TU Ultimate Kevlar Street n' Strip Clutch Kit (Stage IV)" clutch in my CSX right now. Not pushing much power right now but it sucks for a DD. I just started DD'ing the car a couple weeks ago. It seems to be getting better but my left leg is now twice the size of my right leg. Chris told me if the clutch doesn't hold he would swap the disk for a 6 puck. I would rather turn the power down then run a puck clutch.

I thought the TU PP's were supposed to be light peddel, no?


SPEC 3+ is showing promise, but too early to tell yet. Unfortunately at $500+ it is out of lots of peoples budget.
Todd

My Spec 4+ (solid hub) engages smoother than a 6 puc. Most other vehicle owners can't buy a clutch set-up for 500.00! lol If we're going to move forward as a community we're going to have to get past the "do it 2 or three times for 250-300.00" sindrome and go strait to the " do it right the first time for 5-900.00 and call it a day!"

Now I know that up until now, there really hasn't been that much offered to give ppl confidence in what their money is buying them. That is all changing!

The ACT set-up I'm running in the Charger, with a custom full faced ORGANIC disc will drive like stock and hold over 450WTQ! With the disc I'm running it's in the 680+WTQ range.

This is only the beginning of some of the options that will soon be availible to us, but it will ultimitly be up to the end user wether they'll fork out for something Great, or spend the same money or more, buying 2-3 different set-ups trying to find one that suits them.

[MiniMopar]

So what clutch would you guys recommend for a fairly stock DD? Say FWD Stage 3 cal, 15psi, free flowing exhaust? Next time I do a clutch I want it to last 100K miles or so, I'm not taking my car to the strip I just need a good DD city driving clutch.

You should be happy with an organic type T3 clutch. I ran one in my Shadow and it worked great (2.2L, 15psi).

[MiniMopar]

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/images/Puple%20Kevlar.jpg

http://www.clutchmasters.com/static/content/kit3.jpg

Looks similar except the SRT design might be more forgiving about run out. I really wanted the Kevlar to be the right clutch for me, but it did not deliver on any front except maybe engagement at higher RPM. It's not as grabby as a ceramic, but still chatters at low RPM. Bugs me.

Anyway...I did not mean to hijack this thread.

[BadAssPerformance]

You should be happy with an organic type T3 clutch. I ran one in my Shadow and it worked great (2.2L, 15psi).

Agreed. T2 disk and T3 plate...


Now I know that up until now, there really hasn't been that much offered to give ppl confidence in what their money is buying them. That is all changing!

Not sure what you mean by your comment, but our vendors here do offer good clutches.

A clutch is a difficult component to spec out to an application because things like vehicle weight, etc. come into play more often than not.


The ACT set-up I'm running in the Charger, with a custom full faced ORGANIC disc will drive like stock and hold over 450WTQ! With the disc I'm running it's in the 680+WTQ range.

Thanks Rob, this confirms my comment that you can run a full disk with a heavy plate.

Where did you get these numbers? And which disk are you running. If you are running the HD plate and 6 puck like I have been its only rated to like 614?


This is only the beginning of some of the options that will soon be availible to us, but it will ultimitly be up to the end user wether they'll fork out for something Great, or spend the same money or more, buying 2-3 different set-ups trying to find one that suits them.

"Soon be available" ... are you becoming a vendor for ACT or something?

The SRT-4 ACT clutches have been an option for a while for those that want to do the extra work to make them fit and shell out too much money. In reality only a very few actually need this much clutch, which is why I could never ghet ACT to jump on it 7 years ago when they made me a prototype specifically for the 2.2L...

The "fork out for something great" comment sounds like something I read on SRT-Forums... I've seen folks there telling other folks with mild builds they need a super clutch when they dont. And when they get the ACT extreme plate or twin disk or whatever, all it does for them is makes them dislike driving their car anymore...

[Shadow]

Not sure what you mean by your comment, but our vendors here do offer good clutches.

A clutch is a difficult component to spec out to an application because things like vehicle weight, etc. come into play more often than not.

I was refering to ppl who have forked out $'s in the past for an unproven combo (usually of their own making) that they were hoping would be "the next step" or better than what is already being offered, and have come up short of what they were hoping.

Comment had nothing to do with the clutches currently available for the drivability and TQ that they are advertised for.


Thanks Rob, this confirms my comment that you can run a full disk with a heavy plate.

We ran a full bodied SRT-4 (I mean FULL bodied, no CF nothing removed) into the mid 11's with a sprung organic ACT street disc and Only ran into slippage when we started doing 2nd gear burn outs on 26" slicks! YES With the right PP Organic full faced disc can give you the best of both worlds!


Where did you get these numbers? And which disk are you running. If you are running the HD plate and 6 puck like I have been its only rated to like 614?

I'm running a custom Spec full faced solid hub Carbon/metalic (some say Feramic) Disc. Higher COF than the 6 puc your running, adds about 70Ft/lb to the set-up from the friction material.


"Soon be available" ... are you becoming a vendor for ACT or something?

LOL! Negative, Vendor just doesn't seem to be in my blood, but there have been a # of companies that have been in contact with me since last fall and there are going to be some really nice high end clutches available for those that want them.




The "fork out for something great" comment sounds like something I read on SRT-Forums... I've seen folks there telling other folks with mild builds they need a super clutch when they dont. And when they get the ACT extreme plate or twin disk or whatever, all it does for them is makes them dislike driving their car anymore...

This was simply a response to all of the ppl who have complained about buying 2-3 (or more) cheaper set-ups in the hopes of getting something that will work for them and NOT make their car "NO FUN" to drive!

The set-up in the Charger with the right custom organic disc meets or exceeds any other offering currently available from our vendors
(exept the rev-lock + DD PP possibly) and IS the most street friendly set-up you can drive....no? How can it not be, it's a full faced sprung organic disk! You wouldn't call that "something Great"?

Say whatever you want about ACT pricing, I've found their product to be top notch and have yet to run into any problems.

Add to that their TQ ratings are very accurate IMO and it becomes a confident investment.

As I recall, about a year ago, ppl on here were telling me I Couldn't have what I wanted, a street friendly clutch that could hold over 600WTQ. Guess what, they were wrong!

If you haven't figured it out yet, I'm not about wallowing in the past. PPl that want to keep revisiting what hasn't worked for them before are free to do the same. Just as ppl who are happy with what they have now are also free to continue being happy.

I wasn't happy with the choises I had, now I am, and there's more to come, and I know there are more ppl out there that want what I want, Or should I say, wanted.......:D

[Chris W]

Looks similar except the SRT design might be more forgiving about run out. I really wanted the Kevlar to be the right clutch for me, but it did not deliver on any front except maybe engagement at higher RPM. It's not as grabby as a ceramic, but still chatters at low RPM. Bugs me.

Anyway...I did not mean to hijack this thread.

Hey Russ,

It's been quite a while since you purchased your Kevlar clutch from us. Our latest design has several improvements over the one you have. Give us a call and we will take care of you. :thumb:

Chris-TU

[MiniMopar]

Hey Russ,

It's been quite a while since you purchased your Kevlar clutch from us. Our latest design has several improvements over the one you have. Give us a call and we will take care of you. :thumb:

Chris-TU

Thanks Chris! I was going to call you about this subject anyway since a new clutch is clearly in my future. :)

[BadAssPerformance]

I was refering to ppl who have forked out $'s in the past for an unproven combo (usually of their own making) that they were hoping would be "the next step" or better than what is already being offered, and have come up short of what they were hoping.

Comment had nothing to do with the clutches currently available for the drivability and TQ that they are advertised for.


You contradict yourself above, but from reading the rest of your post, you obviously have some sort of vendor beef. No need to reply to this.


I'm running a custom Spec full faced solid hub Carbon/metalic (some say Feramic) Disc. Higher COF than the 6 puc your running, adds about 70Ft/lb to the set-up from the friction material.

cool.


LOL! Negative, Vendor just doesn't seem to be in my blood, but there have been a # of companies that have been in contact with me since last fall and there are going to be some really nice high end clutches available for those that want them.

This was simply a response to all of the ppl who have complained about buying 2-3 (or more) cheaper set-ups in the hopes of getting something that will work for them and NOT make their car "NO FUN" to drive!

Well, that last post kinda sorta sounds like a vendor... but since you're not, thats great, share the knowledge man!

A number of companies? Like who, which ones?


The set-up in the Charger with the right custom organic disc meets or exceeds any other offering currently available from our vendors
(exept the rev-lock + DD PP possibly) and IS the most street friendly set-up you can drive....no? How can it not be, it's a full faced sprung organic disk! You wouldn't call that "something Great"?

I knew it was great when i told you the ACT clutches would bolt to the 2.2L's... I have nothing but good things to say about the ACT clutches I have used.


Say whatever you want about ACT pricing, I've found their product to be top notch and have yet to run into any problems.

I shell out cash for parts I need and really dont have any issues with ACT pricing. My point is that the $500 ACT clutch I have in my car exceeds the HP made by all but a handfull of us TM 5-speed racers... most people could get away with a cheaper combo.

Your post just sounded like a salesman in a "You gotta have it or you're doing it wrong" kida way... which is why i made the SRTForums comment.


As I recall, about a year ago, ppl on here were telling me I Couldn't have what I wanted, a street friendly clutch that could hold over 600WTQ. Guess what, they were wrong!

Who? Was that when I told you what I am rinning?


If you haven't figured it out yet, I'm not about wallowing in the past. PPl that want to keep revisiting what hasn't worked for them before are free to do the same. Just as ppl who are happy with what they have now are also free to continue being happy.

I wasn't happy with the choises I had, now I am, and there's more to come, and I know there are more ppl out there that want what I want, Or should I say, wanted.......:D

So, if you're not a vendor, you have noting to lose... enlighten us man!

Really, this is quite a DIY forum and I have all the measurements to explain the differences between a 2.2L clutch and a 2.4L clutch and am planning to write a KC article on how to do it... maybe we could write this article together?

[Shadow]

You contradict yourself above, but from reading the rest of your post, you obviously have some sort of vendor beef. No need to reply to this.

WTF? Sometimes I wonder why I even bother. Contradict myself, ppl mixing and matching stuff to try and make something work for them has 0 to do with pkgs that vendors sell.

Me thinks you need to read more carefully before jumping next time!



I knew it was great when i told you the ACT clutches would bolt to the 2.2L's... I have nothing but good things to say about the ACT clutches I have used.

I was well aware of the set-up bolting up to a 2.2/2.5 way before I ever spoke to you about it. My only interest in your set-up was because it was in and working and I was interested in what you had to do to make that happen.

Actually sorry I even brought this up, your a mod, please delete this conversation before you attempt to get me on the wrong side of vendor, manufacturer, or anyone else for that matter by ASSuming things you don't know.........

[MiniMopar]

Robert,

I and many others are not afraid to spend more to get a setup that works. Just look at my Daytona...I really didn't make many compromises when it came to cost. In '06/'07 ACT was not really in the picture as far as I knew. I had done the 6 puck thing and the Kevlar disc was a new kid on the block and had promise. Obviously it came up a bit short...at least for me.

Perhaps you are speaking from other personal experience, but the assumptions about what all TD owners are willing to spend don't really merit those kinds of comments. If someone has a better setup available, I am all ears as long as it really works! I have sunk plenty of coin into this thing and it's a DD.

[JohnnyIroc]

Anyway...I did not mean to hijack this thread.

hey no problem at all i already made up my mind on what im getting
you guys can go on...

[MiniMopar]

hey no problem at all i already made up my mind on what im getting
you guys can go on...

So what are you getting? :)

[BadAssPerformance]

WTF? Sometimes I wonder why I even bother. Contradict myself, ppl mixing and matching stuff to try and make something work for them has 0 to do with pkgs that vendors sell.

Me thinks you need to read more carefully before jumping next time!

Sorry, you reffered to what is already offered, my bad.


I was well aware of the set-up bolting up to a 2.2/2.5 way before I ever spoke to you about it. My only interest in your set-up was because it was in and working and I was interested in what you had to do to make that happen.

And thats cool man, I'm not saying I invented it or anything, just that its not magical or anything. I still think a nice DIY article for those "how to" types would be great to have in our KC :nod:


Actually sorry I even brought this up, your a mod, please delete this conversation before you attempt to get me on the wrong side of vendor, manufacturer, or anyone else for that matter by ASSuming things you don't know.........

I'm not attempting anything man. You havn't said anything against any vendors, I ASSumed wrong, you said so yourself, therefore, I do not see any need to delete anything...


I am, however curious about the new clutch you mentioned tho... enquiring minds want to know. :eyebrows:

[DodgeZ]

Shadow. Please forgive JT. He has been hanging around me too long.

[Shadow]

I'm not attempting anything man. You havn't said anything against any vendors, I ASSumed wrong, you said so yourself, therefore, I do not see any need to delete anything...

OK cool, and maybe looking back I read that wrong, thought you were making an accusation when you were actually posing a Q? I just didn't want to see this turn into another one of last years fiascos and I couldn't understand why you of all ppl would head it in that direction!


I am, however curious about the new clutch you mentioned tho... enquiring minds want to know. :eyebrows:

I've pretty much told you everything there is to know about the combo I'm running right now, so not sure if that's what your talking about?

I wasn't happy with the weight of the Spec stage 4+ disc, so it had to be moddified to my liking (-1lb 3oz :eyebrows:) so one of the hold ups is getting with Spec to mod their discs to my Specs in order to keep things easy on the trans! Which they seem quite willing to do, but it all takes time!

[Shadow]

Robert,

I and many others are not afraid to spend more to get a setup that works. Just look at my Daytona...I really didn't make many compromises when it came to cost. In '06/'07 ACT was not really in the picture as far as I knew. I had done the 6 puck thing and the Kevlar disc was a new kid on the block and had promise. Obviously it came up a bit short...at least for me.

Perhaps you are speaking from other personal experience, but the assumptions about what all TD owners are willing to spend don't really merit those kinds of comments. If someone has a better setup available, I am all ears as long as it really works! I have sunk plenty of coin into this thing and it's a DD.

This is exactly what I was talking about, and a perfect example of what I was trying to describe to JT. I'm not trying to badmouth TD'er at all. I'm trying to work things out for those who have spent money's in the past and didn't get "all that they were hoping".

And what better platform to work it out on. The Charger is a high powered fully street legal, street driven car that goes to the local track and bewilders ppl!

If there's ANYTHING ppl on the net know me for it's how Anal I am about wanting to keep things as street friendly and driver friendly as possible!

My criterium for a street driven car is that anyone who can drive a manual tranny should be able to get behind the wheel and drive....no problem.

Bottom line, if my wife can't drive the car, it's the first indication it's turning into a race car!

So, don't get me wrong, it's because I know there are ppl like you out there that I'm going to the lengths I am to work this stuff out, NOT just for 500+ hp car of ours, but all the way down the line. (athough I personally think that 400whp and below is pretty well covered by our vendors already)

Having said that, (and like I mentioned to JT) having a 450+WHP organic almost stock driving set-up (for those that want it) isn't a bad thing IMO.

[Vigo]

the rev lok is also nice because when you want to give it a cleaning, just slap it in the media blaster, and you have a clutch that is brand new again

For the record, you can do the same thing with ceramic. I 'saved' my uber-glazed 4puck with a roloc disc.


Has anyone ever tried an organic disc with one of these highly-modifed PPs?

Gaboon here ran a Charger to the low 11s with a dual diaphragm plate on a STOCK full face organic disc (if i have my facts straight). With enough clamping force, ANY disc will hold. It is just one more compromise to decide how much plate your leg will be happy with. Ondonti runs a looney-tunes #3300 plate and said that extending the clutch arm out a bit and moving the cable over helped it a lot. Im going to try a softer DD (dual tbi plate) and that method in my van once i get the PP back.


Russ, according to Chris @ TU he does not recommend mixing and matching disks from other companies with his PP's because of the altered fulcrum points on his PP's.

As far as i know the thicker discs he offers are the reason for the concern and not the decreased lift, because a thinner disc would not have much or any pressure on it at full release with a PP set up for a thicker disc. However, it's been theorized, and stands to reason, that if one happened to come across just the PP you could put your flywheel on a brake lathe and just turn down the outside portion to lower the surface that the PP bolts to by an equivalent amount so that a stock disc would still get the full clamps.

Give em the clamps!
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRHdqQ_QKPtIRx2EJc9-HZ2HbLyNvgdA3Pj9RipLQPUaJ4rcjo&t=1&usg=__0d8FZUQrroGt1FjoRPirhaCRses=


Does anyone here ever actually reuse pressure plates (having them reground, obviously)

As far as i know it is hard to regrind pressure plates, or people who can simply refuse to do it. I do reuse every pressure plate that doesnt have bad wear on the plate surface, bad wear on the fingers, or some kinda symptom before it comes out of the car. I just clean off and texture the surface with a 36 or 60grit roloc disc and put it back together. :) HOWEVER if anyone is determined to get rid of a used, uprated pressure plate for cheap, please PM me.

[JohnnyIroc]

So what are you getting? :)

TU stage 2 6 puck :D