Boost & Fuling issuse

[Boost_Virgin]

Okay my beast is finally up and running. I have 300 miles on the rebuilt engin. With the rebuild I also went with a FWD Performance TIII cal stage 1 with +%20 injectors for a little added kick. The car has been running really rich, and dose not seem to be able to control boost. When the engin was out I did put all new vac. lines on. There maybe a problem there, but I don't think so.

Here is what happens. When I'm in the range of 5 - 10 psi light load it puffs a little black smoke, and only has okay power. If it has a heavy load (up hill) it puffs black smoke like an old diesel, and has no power. On both items my Air/Fule guage is showing pig rich. If I open it up the boost bounces between 10 - 15 psi. Basicly when it hits 15psi it cuts out and puffs black smoke. As it heads down to 10psi it takes off again.

I the codes it shows it 12, 53, and 55. I have installed a new o2 sensor, but nothing eles. When the car is idleing I have 18 in./hg. of vac. The only major change in the vac. line routing is the Wastegate sol. gets it' boost single from a tee that is also going to the map insted of the turbo. Is this my problem with controling the boost? What about running rich?

I don't have a AFPR, and don't plan on getting one. I thought the cal should take care of that. I'm also using a .030 mig welding tip for my restrictor. Below I posted the vac. info., and a pick of a new part in line with the wastegate vac line. Dose in need to be put in going the correct direction?

Thanks for all the help. I look forward to your advice! :thumb:

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[puppet]

Too rich = no power. ... get an AFPR or try this shot in the dark:

Go to your local JY and find a Bosch 237 FPR off an '88 Buick LeSabre with a 3800 engine. That part will get you 47psi static FP at the rail.
A Bosch 233 FPR will take you down to 37psi at the rail. Same make/model ... probably others '87-'88 with the smaller V6 engine. Both are a direct swap.

I've got a Bosch 237 on my 2.2 T2 using Cindy's Stage 5 cal, +40's. The A/F and EGT's look good at 25psi ... FWIW.

[GLHNSLHT2]

The cal should take care of the fueling, you are correct on that. If it doesn't it should be reprogrammed. I'd run 1st run the WG off it's own line as well as the map. The map is getting an interupted signal running the WG off it. Then is the cal calibrated for stock injectors or +20's? I'd drop the stockers back in and see. Cindy's cal's are known to run rich.

[Boost_Virgin]

I'm going to try running the wate gate line to the compressor 1st. She also asked me to check my fule pressure, and check my injector circuit. I e-mailed her last night and she got back to me in about 3-4 hrs. FWD Performance rocks.

[Boost_Virgin]

The cal should take care of the fueling, you are correct on that. If it doesn't it should be reprogrammed. I'd run 1st run the WG off it's own line as well as the map. The map is getting an interupted signal running the WG off it. Then is the cal calibrated for stock injectors or +20's? I'd drop the stockers back in and see. Cindy's cal's are known to run rich.

The stage 1 cal is for 15 psi of boost (2-bar) and the +20% injectors. I think you are right with the vac. line. I will be moving it to one of the fittings on the compressor, or an open port some where eles. Thanks for the help. I will report my findings.

[Dave]

Your boost problem is in the lines. Don't ever tee vaccum lines together for something important like that. BOV's, MBC's, and PCV's should all have ONE solid source.

It may also be the length of the line but I doubt that. Do you have two different size lines on the controller?

It sounds like you're pig rich too. Get an AFPR.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Why is it that everytime someone is rich with an aftermarket cal someone suggests an AFPR?!??!?! GET THE CAL RIGHT AND IT WON'T NEED AN AFPR! Somebody could be pig rich at idle/part throttle and lean or just right in boost and someone would suggest an AFPR. Well guess what. Then they'd be ok at idle and super lean in boost. The advantage to an aftermarket custom calibration is not to have to resort to these caveman techniques. I could go down to Cali right now and if I got pulled over they wouldn't know the electronics aren't stock under the hood. Sure they wouldn't like the custom i/c piping and cold air intake but as far as the fueling and electronics go I'd be fine. Then there's the cost issue. You've spent good money on a calibration. Why put bandaids on it to fix what should be right in the calibration. I'm not bashing the calibration. I'm just saying that if it's not right it should be fixed. You should not have to buy another $100+ item to get it to run right. In the calibration you can add more fuel or less fuel or more or less spark as well as mutliple other things anywhere you want. So if you're just right at idle and part throttle but a little lean in boost you can adjust just the boost aspect. You're pinging at WOT at 3500-4000 rpms. You can fix that in the calibration. Or would you rather just turn the distributor so you only have 8 degrees of base timing. I wouldn't. I'd rather drop the timing a bit at 3500-4k in the WOT table and be done with it. Sorry this just hit a nerve. I can't see good money being wasted by bandaid'ing something. Get it fixed the right way. Cindy seems on top of the ball in this situation. No need for him to slap more parts on his car.

[Anonymous_User]

I agree that an AFPR should not be needed with a calibrated computer. However, the OP has not stated what the static fuel pressure is. If there is a problem with the fuel pressure, fix that first.

Make sure all the vac. lines are correct.

Only after you know for sure that you haven't got a problem elsewhere, then look at tweaking the cal.

[Boost_Virgin]

Well I think I got it solved. The Fuling and boost issuse was two things. 1st problem was the "T" in the map vac line. After doing that my fulein issue went way. It still would not hold steady boost. I'm pretty sure the WG sol. was going out. Then it went out completely. I pull the boost scouce vac line off. The turbo spooled to 20+ psi quick (too quick) with no spitting or sputtering. I don't know anything about that boost leve, because as soon as it wen there I pulled my foot out! Plug the vac lines into the sol. and only get 5psi. Unplugg the electrical connection, and still 5psi. So I got a MBC coming and it should take care of everything.

Thanks for everybody's help :)