Reliable running tm,

[135sohc]

Looking for a inexpensive running car. Would prefer a P body manual transmission but open to almost anything tm related, first gen cloud car or maybe even a neon. Located south of DC (20659).

[ChargedDust]

I still have this for sale

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51163

email me direct QFRB97@optonline.net

[135sohc]

I should have better specified.

No t-tops or convertibles ($$ weatherstripping $$), Daytonas are not my thing at all and honestly I dont want a turbo car unless its a 91-92 4dr P body mtx.

[RoadWarrior222]

So you don't want a TM :confused:

[moparman76_69]

So you don't want a TM :confused:

Sounds like he'd be better off looking for a unicorn or maybe a leprechaun.

[RoadWarrior222]

Nah, that's played out, would have to go for a Cinderella coach hand wrought from unobtanium pulled by a team of six unicorns with leprechaun driver and footmen.

Har-de-har...

really they're not bad if maintained and not over modded...

But, was really just commenting that it's a bad thread title if a fairly specific P-body, OR a non turbo car is wanted.

[135sohc]

I guess I should have posted this like so: so I'm looking for a cheapass winter beater, must be in perfect condition with less than 50k on it, no rust, within 5 miles of 20659, must have a pile of records and just be in perfect condition but still DIRT CHEAP since thats a requirement here :lol:. wonder how many responces that would get ? probably none

This site tends to use the term "TM" very loosely, hence why I put it in the title to indicate a preferance to a 2.2/2.5 car more so than another.

Anyways to the topic at hand. All I'm looking for is a winter beater... T-tops and turbo's dont make for a winter car around here. A solid roof, tbi or even 3.0 car is a winter beater.

[RoadWarrior222]

If you see a local '91 up 3.0 that's absolutely belching smoke... take a look at the PCV valve, see if it ever looks changed... inspect the hose, see if it could be flattened... and look inside the front valvecover and see if it looks sludgy... say nothing, suck teeth a lot about how nasty it's smoking... offer top-dollar scrap price, about $250... then when you get it home...change out the PCV and hose, on the old oil, backflush the PCV hole into the valve cover with brake cleaner, really hose it through, give it about 10 mins of running, while you're doing this too, then shut off, change oil for pennzoil or castrol "High Mileage" 10W30... annnd it should stop smoking completely in a couple of days of running round, any leaks will seal up, the sludge will all clear in the first fill of HM oil but you might need to change it early-ish depending how black it gets how quickly... but after that you'll have a sweet and clean running 3.0 that's barely using any oil.

[ShadowFromHell]

Yup, my old boss had a 3.0 can that smoked like crazy. I pulled the valve covers to re-seal them and found the PCV baffles were completly clogged. Cleaned them, and the smoke went away!

[RoadWarrior222]

You can get lucky with the '87 to '90 ones too, but it's a gamble that it's actually the guide drop problem. I think most of them went in the first 10 years and many that people actually kept running to now, had it early and got the dealer fix on it. The seals do wear over time, even the "good" ones used for the dealer fix and later on, but the HM oil seems to keep them plumped up good, or clean, which may also be an issue. So if it's an original or long time owner car and the seller says he guess it's the guides gone AGAIN... then they probably haven't and it's probably mostly a PCV system issue... unless the thing has been completely beat to crap and run out of oil a lot, then it could be worn pistons/rings/bores... but if it spits out huge clouds just off idle and thins out as you take the revs up, to next to nothing... then it's PCV or guide drop, if it starts thin and gets worse it's shagged.