LC-1 reading issue

[Reaper1]

As I was making a post to another thread I remembered this issue I'm having, and have been having since I got my LC-1.

My LC-1 displays through a Dyno-Tuned LCD display in my dash. I have it wired as correctly as I know how, the grounds are seperated, but go to a common ground block under the hood that is grounded directly to the battery. The sensor is right about 18" from the turbo...right where the shift cables come through the body of the car.

What happens is that when I'm doing a hard pull sometimes the LC-1 will quit reading. It almost acts as if the sensor is too cold and it has to go back through its warm-up mode. Most of the time when I have this issue I am spraying a little water or water/alky mix, but it will happen with just pump gas as well. I've had the issue for a long time, and I always thought it was the alky doing it, but then I remembered that they are designed to work with that fuel as well.

I changed the way the grounds were set-up because of the issue, but it didn't really help. I've also recalibrated the sensor around every 3-6 months (it's due now actually), but I still have the issue.

Part of me thinks the sensor sh*t the bed, but the other part of me doesn't think that is it at all.

Any suggestions? Oh, and I'd LOVE to data log with this thing at some point, but I'm unsure that using a USB/serial adapter will work well.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I'd say plug it into a laptop and see if you're getting the same thing. The virtual gauge on the laptop will tell you if it's warming up or not.

[Reaper1]

I figured, but I'm kinda computer inept and even though I've read teh directions about 100 times, I'm STILL unsure how to do it. LOL I wish I could find a person locally that has one so they could show me! I do better with physical interaction (get your mind out of the gutter!!).

[GLHNSLHT2]

Just fire up logworks and hit connect. Not hard at all.

[bakes]

Sort a sounds like the heater has failed on the o2 sensor.

But under boost the EGT's should be climbing.:confused:

[Reaper1]

Sort a sounds like the heater has failed on the o2 sensor.

But under boost the EGT's should be climbing.:confused:

Yeah I think you might be right.

As for the EGT's, I agree. However when introducing water/meth into the mix will lower tem, but I'm not spraying THAT much!

[turbovanman²]

Could be the LC-1 is bad, seems they are hit and miss these days, :(

[Reaper1]

I agree...I hope it's not that, but if it is, then I'll have to address it accordingly when I have th $$$ and time.

[shelbymonster]

i have one sensor for lc-1 right here , bought it for a replacement and finaly its was my lc-1 not working , 30 shipped , lmk

[Juggy]

do u have the push button and LED light installed along with the sensor???
as long as the LED is lit up then there is no problems with the sensor.

it also blinks upon warm up then lits up steadily (telling u its warm) after the heat cycle

you can also program the sensor @ 5v settting and if there is problems your afrs will read full lean this will tell you things are wrong and its time 2 replace the sensor

[Reaper1]

Yeah, I have the light and such, but I've honestly never tried to look at it while hauling @ss because it's mounted down by my fuse block. I suppose I'll give that a go as well.

$30 shipped from Canada to Florida is one heck of a deal...just wish I had $30! :( If I can turn over some rocks I'll let you know for sure! :thumb:

[Juggy]

so whats the point of installing a wideband if u never look at it when your on the throttle? lol

[shelbymonster]

Yeah, I have the light and such, but I've honestly never tried to look at it while hauling @ss because it's mounted down by my fuse block. I suppose I'll give that a go as well.

$30 shipped from Canada to Florida is one heck of a deal...just wish I had $30! :( If I can turn over some rocks I'll let you know for sure! :thumb:

someone else saw my sensor on your tread and its sold lol

[Reaper1]

so whats the point of installing a wideband if u never look at it when your on the throttle? lol

You missunderstood me. I have the LED and such mounted where the fuseblock is. I have the display mounted in my gage cluster right above the voltmeter. It's a pretty slick install and VERY visible when doing a pull! THAT goes to "0.00" sometimes, like the sensor got too cold and can't read. I find that hard to beleive since the EGT's have to be pretty high (unless my engine is just that efficient! LOL :eyebrows: ). So, I think there is either a problem with the sensor, or the LC-1. I've never looked at the LED while making a pull because #1, I never thought to, and #2 it's not in a very good place to try!


someone else saw my sensor on your tread and its sold lol

LOL...it's all good. I wouldn't have had the money for some time anyways...I just got raped by the state of Florida due to some stupid BS that I don't want to get into. Suffice it to say that I was ridin' durty for a few hours today while I got that sorted out. :yuck:

[Speedeuphoria]

I would try to recal the sensor out of the exhaust pipe. Just unplug the sensor and key on for 5sec. Then plug the sensor back in, it will aromatically do a heater calibration. Then you need to do a free air cal which you wait for it to warm up then push the button for 3 sec

I use a usb-serial adapter and it works good, certain ones are better than others

[Reaper1]

I've always cal-ed it out of the pipe. The times I've tried it in the pipe (even when the car hasn't run for days) it never reads correctly.

I thought by unplugging it, then key on for 30 seconds, turn it off, then plugging it back in then key on WAS recaling it? I haven't done it in a while (it's due), but every time I do it I break out the instructions.

[Speedeuphoria]

I thought so also but it seems that it only does the heater calibration

You have to manually do the free air cal. i think you can do 1 or both while hooked up to a computer also

[GLHNSLHT2]

you can do it all hooked up to the laptop. I start up every sensor either hooked up to the laptop or an XD-16 for the 1st time. Then I can see exactly what's going on.

[Reaper1]

OK. I think I'll find my software and try to hook the computer to it. It seems that may be the better option. Thanks!

[R/Tony]

Usually when the sensor is already smoked you get an error in the calibration led and it doesnt read anything at all... in that case a new sensor is required.

But if the display or the gauge doesnt seems to be reading good then most likely is the gauge only, because the LC1 is very realiable, sometimes I have this problem with my gauge but the signal in the PC (com1) is very strong and accurate.

Tony.