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85glhtii
12-30-2005, 02:58 PM
There was a thread on the "other" board about people using computer cases to make floors for their cars. I didn't have an spare cases, so I used the next best thing...the side of a Compaq server rack. :-D Not quite done yet, but thought maybe someone might be interested to see some pics!

Started with:
http://www.extremepsi.org/gallery/albums/OmniFloor/DSCF0123.sized.jpg

Now have:
http://www.extremepsi.org/gallery/albums/OmniFloor/DSCF0147.sized.jpg

It's taken longer than I'd hoped it would, but it is relatively easy. I highly recommend a air powered body saw and some decent body hammers for a job like this.

More pics, larger pics here: http://www.extremepsi.org/gallery/OmniFloor

Chad-
htpp://www.extremepsi.org

85shelbycharger
12-30-2005, 04:16 PM
Nice! I used thick pieces of sheet metal when I patched the holes on my 86. Computer casing doesn't seem like a bad idea :thumb:

GLHSKEN
12-30-2005, 04:43 PM
Thanks to Kevin I... I have a floor Pan to use... I'll be dropping the car at the welders within a couple months along with the pan and 2 rear 1/4's to start the makeover...

BTB
12-30-2005, 06:49 PM
I need to fix my drivers side. Its time for me to learn how to weld.

85glhtii
12-30-2005, 07:32 PM
I need to fix my drivers side. Its time for me to learn how to weld.

I highly recommend the Harbor Freight $199 welder (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=6271). The price is impossible to beat, and the thing works great. This is what I taught myself to weld with and I was welding about 5 mins after it was out of the box with no prior experience. Still a lot to learn, but it's not the black-art I once thought it was.

Chad-
http://www.extremepsi.org

BTB
12-31-2005, 01:32 AM
I highly recommend the Harbor Freight $199 welder (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=6271). The price is impossible to beat, and the thing works great. This is what I taught myself to weld with and I was welding about 5 mins after it was out of the box with no prior experience. Still a lot to learn, but it's not the black-art I once thought it was.

Chad-
http://www.extremepsi.org


Thanks for the hook up. I'll have to keep that one in mind. Harbor Freight has alot of cool stuff.:thumb:

cordes
12-31-2005, 10:36 AM
Good tip. There is just a tad bit of welding that I could do in the drivers side of the car. That seems like it will be just the ticket. Thanks for the info and especially the pics.

TeddyZ
01-06-2006, 10:24 AM
i just have a small rust hole in the drivers wheelwell where thefirewall and floor meet where that big glob of body filler is sitting all l bodies have it. be sure to check it out. if it was on the passengers side it would have rusted out the logic modual from the bottom. sorry i couldnt post a pic. still trying to find out how to drop the size of file for the pic. eg. 1129 kb

Una
01-06-2006, 11:24 PM
On a side note,I just fixed a big patch of rust holes in the drivers rear floor of my '83 SC.. I dried the car out indoors for a couple days, then POR-15'd over all the rust to kill it. Then I put down several layers of fiberglass to reinforce the weakend area as well as keep the water out.

85glhtii
01-09-2006, 11:02 PM
Well, I finally finished up the passenger side. Everything was Por15-d before before being top coated with undercoating. I'm pretty happy with it!:thumb:

http://www.extremepsi.org/gallery/albums/OmniFloor/DSCF0152.sized.jpg

Chad-
http://www.extremepsi.org

cordes
01-10-2006, 12:50 AM
Wow, that is about a night and day difference.

WVRampage
01-10-2006, 04:22 AM
I just got my rampage floor put back in i used 22 guage sheet from ace hardware it was fairly cheap for 2x2 peices, Mine I cut all the rust out and wire prushed it with a 4 inch grinder the i cut small peices of the steel and spot welded it in and kept this up till all of the floor was back in the truck. I painted it all with rustoleum and then used bondo glass to seal the seams,one more good coat of rustoleum and undercoating for sound deadening. I found new carpet online from a place in north carolina. The floor looks great.

Tony Hanna
01-10-2006, 06:39 AM
Are you guys cutting the rust out and laying the patches in flush or overlaping them? If you're overlaping them, I'd be sure to seal the seams good underneath to keep mud or moisture in general from getting trapped between the existing metal and the patches. The heat from welding is pretty good for burning off paint and undercoat. Add to that a seam where mud and water can accumulate and you've got a situation which gives rust a good place to start attacking the new metal you just put in.:eek:
They say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure and with some of the things I've seen on jobs (I patch/replace rotton metal for a living), I believe it! Granted, most of the damage I deal with at work is due to the sulfuric acid produced from burning coal but it still never fails to amaze me how fast a new sheet of 1/4" plate can rot to nothing under the right conditions.
BTW, good looking job Chad.:thumb:

85glhtii
01-10-2006, 09:26 AM
Are you guys cutting the rust out and laying the patches in flush or overlaping them? If you're overlaping them, I'd be sure to seal the seams good underneath to keep mud or moisture in general from getting trapped between the existing metal and the patches.... BTW, good looking job Chad.:thumb:

Thanks for the thumbs up!

More that 1/2 of my floor was butt welded so there is no seems to seal up. Around the edges and the piece on the tunnel is over-lapped by about 1/8 inch. What is the recommended seal-sealer to use on the bottom side? Where can you buy it?

Thanks,
Chad-

Clay
01-10-2006, 10:29 AM
any good automotive paint store will have seam sealer. I used 3M 08300 Ultrapro sealant on my GLHT (and my road runner at one point) when I replaced the floors and it turned out great. Spreads easily, and its paintable.

Here is my floor with the sealant on it, AFTER Eastwood rust encapsulator:

http://www.joink.com/homes/users/cooke/86GLHT/86GLHT-PSfloor-8.jpg

Clay

Tony Hanna
01-10-2006, 05:27 PM
I'm with Clay on the 3M products. Good stuff.:nod:
Another option would be to weld the seams under the car and give 'em a good coat of POR 15 followed by some undercoating. I hate laying on my back and welding overhead though (I do enough of that at work for 2 lifetimes) so I'd probably just go with the sealer.

jeffhambone
01-14-2006, 11:19 AM
Nice! I used thick pieces of sheet metal when I patched the holes on my 86. Computer casing doesn't seem like a bad idea :thumb:

Has anyone tried to use pieces of an old fender? I've got a somewhat banged-up spare Daytona fender and a floor pan that needs repair. Assuming I could cut a decent section out of the fender and bend to fit correctly, is there any reason not to do that?

GLHS592
01-14-2006, 12:19 PM
Usually, sheetmetal is sheetmetal. I'd go with something that is the same thickness.

Tony Hanna
01-15-2006, 06:09 PM
alot of people around here also use appliance cases (washer, dryer, etc) to cut patch metal out of. I haven't ever done it myself, but I've seen some nice looking results.

cordes
01-15-2006, 08:54 PM
alot of people around here also use appliance cases (washer, dryer, etc) to cut patch metal out of. I haven't ever done it myself, but I've seen some nice looking results.

A friend of mine cut out the floor of his GN with a plasma torch and replaced the back seat area with it. It worked out pretty well.

Tony Hanna
01-16-2006, 03:12 AM
What I want to know is what's up with the area where the e-brake cable goes through the floor on G and P bodies? I'm going to have to repair that on the Sundance. The rest of the floor looks mint though.:confused:
I'm guessing the rust must start in the seam between the floor and the reenforcement piece, but I'm not sure.