Options for tightening up convertibles (and T-Tops)

[Whorse]

I'm going to look into redoing my suspension. I know the obvious should be done (and in some cases needs to be do to squat on launch issues). Shocks, springs, bushings/mounts most likely. Strut tower bar if I can find something affordable for my car.

Beyond this, I don't know a lot about suspensions. Convertibles have a heck of a lot of flex, and it's really bad on mine when I go up my driveway (steep and around a corner at the same time).

This is where it gets complicated. Driving a soft top, it takes up a lot of room in the back, so it's hard to tighten up the back. I still want to be able to put the top up and down easily, so a rear strut tower brace would have to be pretty custom, and without a full custom top, a roll bar is out of the question as well.

What can I do to make this car handle nicely (and take bumps nicely as I do drive it on the street 95% of the time), and most of all reduce flex and roll?

My thoughts are possibly some kind of brace directly behind the rear seat that won't interfere with the top, and some kind of rear strut support that would probably have to attach to the back of the trunk. Am I on the right track?

[TurboJerry]

I would do sub-frame connectors. And if done properly, They tie into the floor, and stiffen up the rear as well. (I use 2"X3" .125" wall box tubing) This even works for "coupes, and sedans" as well. It's a very noticable difference.....

[LynX853]

i have a lebaron convert also, I made a rear panhard bar, similar to CSracers with large diameter tubing, (i think 1.75 but dont quote me on that) and it made more of a differance then my strut tower bar, which if you think about it is a hellofalot! this summer im definetly doing subframe connectors and a custom rear brace. the rare brace shouldnt be that hard to do even if you dont have a welder.. im thinking a circular saw some tubing, bolts and a drill should be able to do the job.

good luck!

[Whorse]

D'you have any pictures you can post or email me?

[LynX853]

of the strut tower bar yes.. of the panhard bar no.. cause my car is in VA and im in FL right now (ill be home in 3 weeks, dont worry!) but http://www.csracer.com/panhard_andy.jpg
is a similar pic to what mine looks like. the stock one was a U-shaped bar that bent on its own over time and was really horrible.

http://thumb7.webshots.com/t/54/54/3/31/89/2463331890076281847esJOBB_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2463331890076281847esJOBB)

[LynX853]

http://www.csracer.com/panhard_andy.jpg

[Whorse]

I was looking on CSracing last week and wondering if the G body stuff will fit the lebaron. Seems like it should. Anyone have insight?

[fleckster]

Yes, ALL K-car based vehicles have suspensions that are interchangable. The thing is that you usually have to use all of it. By this I mean, if you swap in the newer K-member, then you have to use the same year-specific lower control arms, sway bar, etc. All or nothing. For example, I will be swapping the front and rear suspension out of my scorched Earth IROC R/T parts car under my Shelby Lancer. (eventually)

There was a post about the stiffening of a convertible a while back. (I know because I posted in it as I was looking for some ideas for my '89 LeBaron GT Turbo 'vert.) I do think that subframe connectors would probably do the most good but no one makes ones specific for our cars, not that it would take much to fab some up. You could probably make a huge difference by gusseting up the welds on the k-member and frame that are already on the car, making them stronger and therefore having less flex. When I cracked the front radiator support by the front motor mount on my Shelby Lancer, I had a friend weld 1/8" steel strips to completely box in the lower radiator support on my Shelby Lancer. Not only did it fix the problem, it felt MUCH stiffer than it ever did. For simple bolt on improvements, I would have to give the nod to the rear pan hard bar and front strut tower bar. I haven't done anything to mine yet other than swapping on Shelby Z springs and a set of no-longer-in-production Mopar Performance struts and KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. (Hey, it takes time and money and I have a rather nice-sized fleet to cover and provide for! I'll get there eventually!)

[BIGBRUDDA]

GOSH FLECK: If you oversee a"fleet" does that make you the "ADMIRAL".:lol:

[GLHNSLHT2]

Yes, ALL K-car based vehicles have suspensions that are interchangable. The thing is that you usually have to use all of it. By this I mean, if you swap in the newer K-member, then you have to use the same year-specific lower control arms, sway bar, etc. All or nothing. For example, I will be swapping the front and rear suspension out of my scorched Earth IROC R/T parts car under my Shelby Lancer. (eventually)

Careful there. All suspensions are not equal. The AA bodies rear axle is different, it's longer and on the non-r/t cars is narrower. The bushing brackets are different on later years of all the cars vs. early years wich can be made to work but usually not worth trying to drill the brackets out to fit your early years and then you have big soft bushings. Not great for handling. Some axles are wider than others which the wider ones are better and fit if you don't have a bracket issue. That covers the rears.

The front's all bolt on but the early daytona's don't like the cast 91+ control arms as the tires like to rub on the ground f/x since the control arm moves the front wheel fwd. You can't use a sway bar from an 84-90 on a 91+. They're different. Just be careful and try to use the good stuff from the same year or a year close to it.


There was a post about the stiffening of a convertible a while back. (I know because I posted in it as I was looking for some ideas for my '89 LeBaron GT Turbo 'vert.) I do think that subframe connectors would probably do the most good but no one makes ones specific for our cars, not that it would take much to fab some up. You could probably make a huge difference by gusseting up the welds on the k-member and frame that are already on the car, making them stronger and therefore having less flex. When I cracked the front radiator support by the front motor mount on my Shelby Lancer, I had a friend weld 1/8" steel strips to completely box in the lower radiator support on my Shelby Lancer. Not only did it fix the problem, it felt MUCH stiffer than it ever did. For simple bolt on improvements, I would have to give the nod to the rear pan hard bar and front strut tower bar. I haven't done anything to mine yet other than swapping on Shelby Z springs and a set of no-longer-in-production Mopar Performance struts and KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. (Hey, it takes time and money and I have a rather nice-sized fleet to cover and provide for! I'll get there eventually!)

[looneytuner]

GOSH FLECK: If you oversee a"fleet" does that make you the "ADMIRAL".:lol:
hey I like that. Used to be in the navy and have 6 tds

[Reaper1]

CSRacer is the expert on the swapping of the newer front suspension parts. Mix&matching does NOT work! I have a '91 K-frame w/cast a-arms and 1990 11" spindles. It moved the front left wheel forward 3/4" due to the different ball joint geometry. In order to use the cast a-arms you must use the spindles that match them. You can use the later spindles on the stamped arms however IIRC. Slotting the K-frame is NOT the way to fix this as it will throw your thrust angle out of whack.

BTW, why would you have to have a cutom top made to use a rollbar in a LeBaron? I've seen it done in Mustangs, Camaro's, and other types of convertible cars with little issue. I've had my LeBaron mostly apart(not mostly back together) and there seems to be PLENTY of room for a roll bar....(you may have to move the pump assembly)