Installed a LU in the A413, definately worth it!

[turbovanman²]

I converted over to a LU a few weeks ago but haven't had time to hook it up, so today, spent 10 mins and just hooked it up to a toggle switch. I am running a 3.05 FD with 225/55R16 tires.

Before, 60 mph was aprox 3200, 75mph was almost 4000 rpm, :wow1: Online calculators put my rpm at 2700 and 3000 respectively, so either they are wrong or I've got massive slip.

I barely played as stupid traffic got in the way but what I noticed was, if you leave it turned on, it will unlock when it downshifts to 2nd gear, pretty cool, BUT if your not traveling fast enough, it really lugs the engine when it hits 3rd, :o

So now, 60 mph is 2900, and I barely managed to get to 75 a few times and its around 3600, so a drop of roughly 400ish rpm, and if I use it in 3rd, its like driving a stick, no TC slip, :thumb:

[86Shelby]

Lockup in 3rd is a beautiful thing until you forget to turn it off and the engine spits & sputters when coming to a stop.

Holy crap your cruise RPM is high! 75 is about 3100 for me, which I thought was nuts.

[looneytuner]

some info I saved. I can't credit the sources.

I'll let you guys in on a little secret. I ran a Neon 2.0 31th LU converter with my '91 TBI 2.5 413. It had 2500 stall and ran better even with broken rings. (1800 with og conv.) The Neon conv. works perfect with the Turbo engine. It has the same stall (within 200 rpm) as the non LU turbo conv. As long as you don't *engage* the LU under high boost, it should be fine for a long time. You can run "good boost" *after* it locks up only. I made a template to put the timing marks on the Neon conv. It doesn't have any in the og application. The coolest part is the Neon conv's have torrington bearings already in them. I guess Mopar had enough problems to make this upgrade. It's also easy to convert a LU to non LU VB. It's just swaping the plate with the solenoid on it to one without the solenoid. It has to a '87 and newer though. I hope this helps........
Reply With Quote

[looneytuner]

someone else had a reference to using a GM pressure switch in the solenoid hole activated by boost to keep it out of lockup when boosting?

[A.J.]

some info I saved. I can't credit the sources.

I'll let you guys in on a little secret. I ran a Neon 2.0 31th LU converter with my '91 TBI 2.5 413. It had 2500 stall and ran better even with broken rings. (1800 with og conv.) The Neon conv. works perfect with the Turbo engine. It has the same stall (within 200 rpm) as the non LU turbo conv. As long as you don't *engage* the LU under high boost, it should be fine for a long time. You can run "good boost" *after* it locks up only. I made a template to put the timing marks on the Neon conv. It doesn't have any in the og application. The coolest part is the Neon conv's have torrington bearings already in them. I guess Mopar had enough problems to make this upgrade. It's also easy to convert a LU to non LU VB. It's just swaping the plate with the solenoid on it to one without the solenoid. It has to a '87 and newer though. I hope this helps........
Reply With Quote

Wow this gives me an idea. I have to swap my tranny because I broke it. I don't have a LU valve body but my girlfriends Mom's '90 TBI van does. I converted it to auto from manual and her computer doesn't turn the lock up on. So I could steal her valve body, replace it with a non-LU V.B. then I just have to get a LU torque converter. Hmmmmmm.

I have a couple of questions though. 1) I should be able to leave her LU torque converter alone, right? Like I said the computer can't turn it on anyways. 2) Am I going to have to make any modifications to her valve body coming from a TBI (originally the trans came out of a '93 TBI 2.2 Shadow) as far as shift points or anything else to make it feel like it came from a turbo car? I'm drilling a hole in the case to be able to adjust line pressure. I'm also replacing the rear band strut with a HD one.

A.J.

[86Shelby]

I don't see how you can make a LU tranny out of a non LU tranny by simply changing the converter and valvebody. At the very least the input shaft is different and I would image the case and possibly the pump body is different as well.

[A.J.]

I don't see how you can make a LU tranny out of a non LU tranny by simply changing the converter and valvebody. At the very least the input shaft is different and I would image the case and possibly the pump body is different as well.

Ya, i just remembered I'd have to do the input shaft. I think I'll just wait on the LU for my SRT-4 build. I'm using a '98 2.4 N/A Caravan LU tranny.

A.J.

[turbovanman²]

Lockup in 3rd is a beautiful thing until you forget to turn it off and the engine spits & sputters when coming to a stop.

Holy crap your cruise RPM is high! 75 is about 3100 for me, which I thought was nuts.

It comes out of LU when it shifts to 2nd, I wrote that above, :eyebrows:



some info I saved. I can't credit the sources.

I'll let you guys in on a little secret. I ran a Neon 2.0 31th LU converter with my '91 TBI 2.5 413. It had 2500 stall and ran better even with broken rings. (1800 with og conv.) The Neon conv. works perfect with the Turbo engine. It has the same stall (within 200 rpm) as the non LU turbo conv. As long as you don't *engage* the LU under high boost, it should be fine for a long time. You can run "good boost" *after* it locks up only. I made a template to put the timing marks on the Neon conv. It doesn't have any in the og application. The coolest part is the Neon conv's have torrington bearings already in them. I guess Mopar had enough problems to make this upgrade. It's also easy to convert a LU to non LU VB. It's just swaping the plate with the solenoid on it to one without the solenoid. It has to a '87 and newer though. I hope this helps........
Reply With Quote

I know who wrote that, he told me to use the Neon converter but he is wrong on the stall, the Neon is 2500, the turbo LU is 4000, I can't stall the Neon converter in my van, the cams are killing me so I have to change it out and put a turbo LU with the proper stall in. As for the timing marks, that's easy, I just measured and cut a groove with a hacksaw then painted it with a yellow marker. He told me he gets 4000 rpm with his 2.2 8 valve engine.


Wow this gives me an idea. I have to swap my tranny because I broke it. I don't have a LU valve body but my girlfriends Mom's '90 TBI van does. I converted it to auto from manual and her computer doesn't turn the lock up on. So I could steal her valve body, replace it with a non-LU V.B. then I just have to get a LU torque converter. Hmmmmmm.

I have a couple of questions though. 1) I should be able to leave her LU torque converter alone, right? Like I said the computer can't turn it on anyways. 2) Am I going to have to make any modifications to her valve body coming from a TBI (originally the trans came out of a '93 TBI 2.2 Shadow) as far as shift points or anything else to make it feel like it came from a turbo car? I'm drilling a hole in the case to be able to adjust line pressure. I'm also replacing the rear band strut with a HD one.

A.J.


Cake, drill the case, 3/4" drill bit, half the hole is already there if you look from the inside. As the necessary LU soleniod and a couple valves, no other mods needed, add the LU input shaft. The wiring I am stuck on, can't find any really good diagrams but the van has the factory connector already in front of the computer, then apparantly, I need to find and the part throttle unlock solenoid and a modified trans wiring connector at the reverse and starter switch.

As for the TBI trans, you just need to swap the turbo gov and you need the turbo front and rear clutch housings, and of course, tighten up the clearances, drill the valve body line pressure hole too.

[contraption22]

It comes out of LU when it shifts to 2nd, I wrote that above, :eyebrows:




I know who wrote that, he told me to use the Neon converter but he is wrong on the stall, the Neon is 2500, the turbo LU is 4000, I can't stall the Neon converter in my van, the cams are killing me so I have to change it out and put a turbo LU with the proper stall in. As for the timing marks, that's easy, I just measured and cut a groove with a hacksaw then painted it with a yellow marker. He told me he gets 4000 rpm with his 2.2 8 valve engine.






Factory spec fpr a turbo converter is 3100-3200. 4000? No. It's no wonder you were slipping so much on the highway.

[turbovanman²]

Factory spec fpr a turbo converter is 3100-3200. 4000? No. It's no wonder you were slipping so much on the highway.

3500 is factory spec for a turbo from what I understand and don't forget, a TC's rating can be altered by more power, so if you have a stock engine that stalls at say 3500, then you make more power, you'll raise the stall speed.

Slip is not my issue, even with the LU, I seem to be way above norm? :confused:

[black86glhs]

You phuckers can't read. A.J. was saying take the valve body out of the TBI van(with the LU) and put it in his van(without LU). Not take the whole trans out and switch them.:rolleyes:
The part about changing the input shaft for a LU one is correct.:thumb:

[glhs0426]

The original LU converter in my 92 T1 was 3500 after the engine rebuild, 3200 with the 200,000mi worn out engine. Still going strong after 300,000. I can't believe it.

John

[A.J.]

You phuckers can't read. A.J. was saying take the valve body out of the TBI van(with the LU) and put it in his van(without LU). Not take the whole trans out and switch them.:rolleyes:
The part about changing the input shaft for a LU one is correct.:thumb:

Ya I wanted a quick way to a LU trans but I'm not pulling the the one out of my g/f Mom's van for the input shaft. I'm just gonna wait for the SRT-4 with the LU.

A.J.

[turbovanman²]

You phuckers can't read. A.J. was saying take the valve body out of the TBI van(with the LU) and put it in his van(without LU). Not take the whole trans out and switch them.:rolleyes:
The part about changing the input shaft for a LU one is correct.:thumb:

Fine, but he still has to take the turbo one apart, :p



Ya I wanted a quick way to a LU trans but I'm not pulling the the one out of my g/f Mom's van for the input shaft. I'm just gonna wait for the SRT-4 with the LU.

A.J.

I have one if you need it.

[A.J.]

Fine, but he still has to take the turbo one apart, :p


The turbo one is apart. I did this today.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0616-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0620.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0622.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0623.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0628-1.jpg



I have one if you need it.

I appreciate the offer but I need to get this together as soon as possible. I 2nd day aired the rear band strut. The paper front pump to case gasket will be here Tuesday. Nobody in the Phoenix area that I deal with had one, even the dealer. :confused: Besides, this trans is only going to be in my van for a few months. No need to be taking money away from my SRT-4 project.

A.J.

[bakes]

Get some rare earth magnets from old hard drives and put them in the pan they make the stock ones look real weak.

[86Shelby]

Slip is not my issue, even with the LU, I seem to be way above norm? :confused:

I went and looked at the gearing chart on Gary's site and realized that I have the tallest gearing available in a 413. 3rd gear in my trans is practically the same ratio as a 555 in 5th; 2.74 vs 2.73. I bet your cruise rpm is due to having a higher ratio final drive.

I do have a tip from experience, do not throw a N/A lu converter on a turbo engine(mine was misboxed with a turbo PN). 2200 rpm is just not enough to get the car rolling quickly, nor will it spool in a reasonable amount of time. I really need to get a turbo conveter to make the car fun again...

[Mr overkill]

glad you finally did it simon told you it was a world of a diff i run on the highway locked up with my lower transfers at 75mph around 2500rpm

[turbovanman²]

I went and looked at the gearing chart on Gary's site and realized that I have the tallest gearing available in a 413. 3rd gear in my trans is practically the same ratio as a 555 in 5th; 2.74 vs 2.73. I bet your cruise rpm is due to having a higher ratio final drive.

I do have a tip from experience, do not throw a N/A lu converter on a turbo engine(mine was misboxed with a turbo PN). 2200 rpm is just not enough to get the car rolling quickly, nor will it spool in a reasonable amount of time. I really need to get a turbo conveter to make the car fun again...

Yeah, my old setup had the 2.6 FD overall but still screamed, but wanted a bit more pep around town, the 3.05 seems to be the best of both worlds.

Yeah, I can't spool the turbo at the track, its fine though around town etc, no complaints.


glad you finally did it simon told you it was a world of a diff i run on the highway locked up with my lower transfers at 75mph around 2500rpm


Wish mine would be that low!

[black86glhs]

Fine, but he still has to take the turbo one apart, :p




I have one if you need it.Your correct, but why do double the work if not needed, that was all I was saying.:D
A 2.5T with a mitsu would love the neon converter/413 combo, IMO. Quick spool of the mitsu and the converter would seem to go well on paper.
I don't see a "true" S60 liking it(sorry, had to Simon). :evil:

[turbovanman²]

A 2.5T with a mitsu would love the neon converter/413 combo, IMO. Quick spool of the mitsu and the converter would seem to go well on paper.
I don't see a "true" S60 liking it(sorry, had to Simon). :evil:

Even my setup is great with the Neon converter, just that pesky issue at the track, :(

[contraption22]

Simon, have you thought about a way of disengaging the clutch automatically when going into boost? Like maybe putting in a pressure switch to open the circuit at 5psi or so, so you don't have to constantly hit the switch when you want to pass or climb a grade or something.

[gasketmaster]

Factory spec fpr a turbo converter is 3100-3200. 4000? No. It's no wonder you were slipping so much on the highway.

At 15psi boost on the brake my stock turbo minivan converter would see 4000 as well :)

[turbovanman²]

Simon, have you thought about a way of disengaging the clutch automatically when going into boost? Like maybe putting in a pressure switch to open the circuit at 5psi or so, so you don't have to constantly hit the switch when you want to pass or climb a grade or something.

Well the toggle is temporary, as soon as I find the other bits, I"ll be using the SMEC. I can control thru there, LU speed, and a ton of parameters so I can taylor it to exactly how i want, Rob said he can help if I need something custom done, :hail: :thumb:

[zin]

Interesting read... Any fears of the LU version being any weaker, etc?

Mike

[A.J.]

Interesting read... Any fears of the LU version being any weaker, etc?

Mike

If it is weaker, Simon will find it. :eyebrows:

A.J.

[Vigo]

the 3.05 seems to be the best of both worlds.

Hehe, imagine that, the stockish ratio being the best of both worlds? It's like a whole company bet their paychecks on making it right or something. :p

[turbovanman²]

Interesting read... Any fears of the LU version being any weaker, etc?

Mike

Well the input shaft is supposed to be weaker, and I am not sure if the clutch can take 20+ psi in 3rd at WOT. Guess we'll find out. :eyebrows:



If it is weaker, Simon will find it. :eyebrows:

A.J.

Thanks, :D


Hehe, imagine that, the stockish ratio being the best of both worlds? It's like a whole company bet their paychecks on making it right or something. :p

Hmmmmmmmm, so we've never improved anything OE then? :p

I might put the .91's after I get my setup done, just to see the difference.

[Vigo]

I am not sure if the clutch can take 20+ psi in 3rd at WOT. Guess we'll find out.


You'll be covering new territory for T-M in that regard, i think.. i cant remember reading about anyone here who has tried it!



Hmmmmmmmm, so we've never improved anything OE then?

Im just messing with ya. :p

[86Shelby]

You'll be covering new territory for T-M in that regard, i think.. i cant remember reading about anyone here who has tried it!

If Chad was on this board he would chime in. I can't remember exactly how many LU input shafts he has gone through, 6 or more is likely. The stock LU clutch is fairly durable, it withstood a handfull of 400+hp dyno runs before the converter was taken out with the latest input shaft failure. The car is a CSXT with a 2.5 hybrid.

I'll see if I can get ahold of him for some more details.

[Vigo]

Please do. Thanks for the info.

[turbovanman²]

Went thru a speed trap today, the reader board type, my speedo seems to be accurate.



You'll be covering new territory for T-M in that regard, i think.. i cant remember reading about anyone here who has tried it!

Im just messing with ya. :p

I thought the Steve guy on the Neon forums used to use the LU on his runs, then he switched to the 4 speed?

I know, hence my :p, :D


If Chad was on this board he would chime in. I can't remember exactly how many LU input shafts he has gone through, 6 or more is likely. The stock LU clutch is fairly durable, it withstood a handfull of 400+hp dyno runs before the converter was taken out with the latest input shaft failure. The car is a CSXT with a 2.5 hybrid.

I'll see if I can get ahold of him for some more details.

I know about the shafts, I can get one made locally if need be.

I would love the info on the converter though, I might use it at the track, :thumb:

[Vigo]

It would be helpful for more accurate dyno runs as well, IF it could handle the power.


I thought the Steve guy on the Neon forums used to use the LU on his runs, then he switched to the 4 speed?

Well i know he switched to the 4spd cuz ive read all about that but i dunno anything about his previous trannies. Although, i guess there is something to be said for holding 400 lb ft in a 2000 lb vs 4000 lb vehicle. Even if his held that is no guarantee that yours would if you tried to put full power through it.

[86Shelby]

The converter wasn't anything special, just a stock piece. It didn't allow the engine to spool the turbo witht he stock stall speed. He has a nice high stall unit but hasn't had the opportunity to install it and to inspect the trans to make sure crap didn't get inside.

[turbovanman²]

It would be helpful for more accurate dyno runs as well, IF it could handle the power.



Well i know he switched to the 4spd cuz ive read all about that but i dunno anything about his previous trannies. Although, i guess there is something to be said for holding 400 lb ft in a 2000 lb vs 4000 lb vehicle. Even if his held that is no guarantee that yours would if you tried to put full power through it.

Yeah, dyno would be nice.

Well I'll know if it holds, I'll report back next Friday if it doesn't rain.


The converter wasn't anything special, just a stock piece. It didn't allow the engine to spool the turbo witht he stock stall speed. He has a nice high stall unit but hasn't had the opportunity to install it and to inspect the trans to make sure crap didn't get inside.

I get my stock turbo stall LU converter next week, now to find the time to install it, :banghead:

[thedon809]

Racersteve's neon made 600whp I believe. He used lock up. If I remember right, he shoehorned 8 clutches in the front clutch pack. He switched to a 4 speed but parted his car out.

[turbovanman²]

Racersteve's neon made 600whp I believe. He used lock up. If I remember right, he shoehorned 8 clutches in the front clutch pack. He switched to a 4 speed but parted his car out.

8 clutch's? :wow1:

Not sure how you can do that, but I've never had a problem with it holding the power, using and 5 clutch's respectively.

So he's parted out his 4 speed Neon? Bummer, :(

[thedon809]

8 clutch's? :wow1:

Not sure how you can do that, but I've never had a problem with it holding the power, using and 5 clutch's respectively.

So he's parted out his 4 speed Neon? Bummer, :(I asked him how, he said "creative machining" :lol:. He still goes on neons.org sometimes. He was selling a badass 3 speed though. Said it could handle over 700whp or something like that.

[turbovanman²]

I asked him how, he said "creative machining" :lol:. He still goes on neons.org sometimes. He was selling a badass 3 speed though. Said it could handle over 700whp or something like that.

No doubt, lol.

So he's out of drag racing or did he put the powertrain in another body?

Would you mind asking him if he'd share his secret?

[thedon809]

No doubt, lol.

So he's out of drag racing or did he put the powertrain in another body?

Would you mind asking him if he'd share his secret?I think he moved on to modding different cars. I will see what he says.

[turbovanman²]

I think he moved on to modding different cars. I will see what he says.

Thank you sir, :thumb:

[Vigo]

I remember hearing that 600whp number too, but 600whp on a 2.0 might still be less peak torque than a 400whp 2.5..

IIRC DblTrbl also had a 9 or 10 sec neon with a 604. He might also have info on lockup converters.. since the small 604 converter and the 413 LU converter are the same thing.

[Speedeuphoria]

I have the info on what Steve did to the LU shaft to make it survive, he said raising the line pressure past 130 or so would snap the shaft time and time again.

He polished and heat treated the stocker to get it to hold a 2.4 and 610whp and 475ft/lbs.

He used a billet kevlar LU converter sold by pats performance converters for $750-900

[bakes]

The more i read about it the more i want a 904 LU shaft and LU torque converter with 904 slines installed put into a a413

[turbovanman²]

I have the info on what Steve did to the LU shaft to make it survive, he said raising the line pressure past 130 or so would snap the shaft time and time again.

He polished and heat treated the stocker to get it to hold a 2.4 and 610whp and 475ft/lbs.

He used a billet kevlar LU converter sold by pats performance converters for $750-900

Ouch, that's a bit too much for me.


The more i read about it the more i want a 904 LU shaft and LU torque converter with 904 slines installed put into a a413

Nah, no reason why an aftermarket stock type A413 shaft properly built shouldn't work.

[Speedeuphoria]

Nah, no reason why an aftermarket stock type A413 shaft properly built shouldn't work.

Last I knew Stephane made those in 300m 1st and were good to 600 or 800 whp, then switched to the 904 splines

[turbovanman²]

Last I knew Stephane made those in 300m 1st and were good to 600 or 800 whp, then switched to the 904 splines

Good enough for me, :thumb:

[turbovanman²]

Interesting, I thought the connector at the front of the SMEC was for the LU as it matched the LU pigtail I took from another van? Seems either it was a fluke or ? as I found an 89 Van with LU at the PAP today, ended up cutting out the wiring harness from the 60 way to the SMEC as I didn't feel like tracing the wiring at the yard, but it goes thru the white starter connector, into the main wiring harness, then to the SMEC and to a relay!

[RoadWarrior222]

IIRC it's bundled up with the fan wiring , starter wiring and reverse/neutral switch wiring usually, and it goes to the front plug somewhere on my SMEC.

[turbovanman²]

IIRC it's bundled up with the fan wiring , starter wiring and reverse/neutral switch wiring usually, and it goes to the front plug somewhere on my SMEC.

It is, hence what I wrote earlier, ;)

[RoadWarrior222]

Ya, it sounded like you thought it was odd and needed confirmation :p

[mr glenn]

any new updates on the wiring for the LU Trans hookup, adding my toggle switch this weekend to my 90 spirit T1 it has to go thru the speed sensor somehow because it comes in at 45 mph I have been checking it out on my 92 shadow very close. driving 70 miles mostly highway daily every little bit helps

[86Shelby]

The SMEC turns the LU clutch on & off using engine load, RPM and speed to determine when. Your toggle switch does not have anything to do with the speed sensor. You will simply have to be diligent and flip the switch when you need to. I've been doing that for 2 years now in my GLHT.

[turbovanman²]

any new updates on the wiring for the LU Trans hookup, adding my toggle switch this weekend to my 90 spirit T1 it has to go thru the speed sensor somehow because it comes in at 45 mph I have been checking it out on my 92 shadow very close. driving 70 miles mostly highway daily every little bit helps

If you wire it into the SBEC, then you can alter its change point but if you using a toggle switch like i am for now, you simply put one side to power, one to ground.

Shelgame has given me the updated ASM file for the SMEC with the LU routine enabled, just haven't had time to load it up.

[contraption22]

Side note: Just happened to notice last weekend that the lockup was unplugged on my '93 Clam. Plugged it back in... wow what a difference.

[turbovanman²]

Side note: Just happened to notice last weekend that the lockup was unplugged on my '93 Clam. Plugged it back in... wow what a difference.

Does it have a tach?

[zin]

any new updates on the wiring for the LU Trans hookup, adding my toggle switch this weekend to my 90 spirit T1 it has to go thru the speed sensor somehow because it comes in at 45 mph I have been checking it out on my 92 shadow very close. driving 70 miles mostly highway daily every little bit helps

As an alternative to manually activating the LU, or having the ECU do it, you can use a vacuum switch from a 70s GM car, then just hook one side to an ignition switched power, and the other side to the solenoid, this is in addition to the toggle, only because it would still be on when you came to a stop. BUT, you won't have to remember to hit it thereby saving more gas since it would be automatic...

Mike

[RoadWarrior222]

Well set the brake to cut it out, the vacuum to cut it in. That should work pretty good I would have thought... but would still take a little adaption, unless you're gently riding the brake at low speeds it could stall.

[contraption22]

Does it have a tach?

No, not yet. Was thinking about checking the difference with my scanner tho.

[contraption22]

I wonder if there would be a way to tie a pressure switch into the trans to have it only come on in 3rd gear and tie that into the circuit?

[turbovanman²]

I wonder if there would be a way to tie a pressure switch into the trans to have it only come on in 3rd gear and tie that into the circuit?

It only comes on in 3rd anyways.

[zin]

I wonder if there would be a way to tie a pressure switch into the trans to have it only come on in 3rd gear and tie that into the circuit?

There you go! Pressure switch in the 3rd gear test port, and a vacuum switch, now it only comes on in 3rd, and will kick off if vacuum drops/under a load...

Mike

[Vigo]

Ive always thought that would be the easiest way but then i can never find my .pdfs to look at which port is which, and then i forget. :p

[86Shelby]

The oil that supplies the clutch is only available in 3rd gear. There is no reason to put a pressure switch on the test port.

[zin]

The oil that supplies the clutch is only available in 3rd gear. There is no reason to put a pressure switch on the test port.

I was assuming we were using that pressure to signal the LU solenoid in the valve body, which is an electric valve... What were you thinking?

Mike

[mr glenn]

Shelgame help us out we know you have the answer

[A.J.]

Rich (rbryant) sent me a couple of links to a frequency switch. I'm going to try that to turn my L.U. on and off with my SRT-4/automatic trans swap I'm going to do.

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2810/article.html

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2814/article.html

A.J.

[RoadWarrior222]

OOOOooooo, handy... might figure out how to use that for a rev limiter...

[turbovanman²]

Shelgame help us out we know you have the answer

For what?



Rich (rbryant) sent me a couple of links to a frequency switch. I'm going to try that to turn my L.U. on and off with my SRT-4/automatic trans swap I'm going to do.

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2810/article.html

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2814/article.html

A.J.


Oh, friggin cool, I can make myself a shift light, would be nice to see how high I am revving this at the track, I barely have time to glance at the tach, :confused: :nod:

[86Shelby]

I was assuming we were using that pressure to signal the LU solenoid in the valve body, which is an electric valve... What were you thinking?

Mike

I may have misinterpreted that the pressure switch would be the only thing turning on the solenoid. That would be worse than a pooch to drive once it went into 3rd.

[Vigo]

Well that switch would be in series with something else like a vacuum reading, a tps reading, etc so that it did not come on at too low a speed or during hard accel etc. The vacuum switch would also keep it turned off during boost, which might be piece of mind for some cars with monster torque.

[A.J.]

Well that switch would be in series with something else like a vacuum reading, a tps reading, etc so that it did not come on at too low a speed or during hard accel etc. The vacuum switch would also keep it turned off during boost, which might be piece of mind for some cars with monster torque.

I have a Hobbs switch that turns on my electric evac pump. I was thinking of using one of those to keep the LU from engaging under boost, and LU can only come on while in third. I was also going to have master switch to completely shut off the system if need be. I think you're over thinking and making it more complicated than it needs to be. If you have the frequency switch tied into the speed sensor and set it to 55 mph, I think that's all you really need.

A.J.

[Vigo]

Sure, as long as you're not making 400+ lb ft of torque (i.e. stock 2.5 with enough boost)and dont forget to turn off your master switch. Consider though that if you run it only off a frequency switch and dont account for load that your 3-2 downshift and 2-3 upshift might have partial lockup engagement during them, depending on how fast each element applies or releases etc. If it were me, id put a vacuum switch in there.

[turbovanman²]

Sure, as long as you're not making 400+ lb ft of torque (i.e. stock 2.5 with enough boost)and dont forget to turn off your master switch. Consider though that if you run it only off a frequency switch and dont account for load that your 3-2 downshift and 2-3 upshift might have partial lockup engagement during them, depending on how fast each element applies or releases etc. If it were me, id put a vacuum switch in there.

If I forget to turn it off, its not bad on the downshift, kinda of a thunk, but the upshift is a pain, because as soon as 3rd is applied, it comes on, and if your not going fast enough, it lugs badly. :(

[RoadWarrior222]

Always seemed to me that 2nd and 3rd were a tad far apart anyway, 3rd would be 5th on a lot of standards*. So without the slip at low speeds, yup it's luggy.


(*I figure they're about like having 2nd, 3rd and 5th as 1, 2, 3.)

[turbovanman²]

Always seemed to me that 2nd and 3rd were a tad far apart anyway, 3rd would be 5th on a lot of standards*. So without the slip at low speeds, yup it's luggy.


(*I figure they're about like having 2nd, 3rd and 5th as 1, 2, 3.)

I honestly never thought that but I thought the other way, they need to be more spaced apart.