kevlar clutch

[shelbymonster]

anyone use it ? im looking for a new clutch right now and kevlar seems a good choise for street , feel free to help me :eyebrows:

[Shadow]

I've never run Kevlar. Thought about it, but when I read that IF you glaze Kevlar, it's done and won't come back. Well that kind of turned me off.

Now I don't know how easy it is to glaze or how true it is that it can't come back from glazing, but it sounded too risky to try at my power level.

[shelbymonster]

thx shadow ! good to know , im maybe in the 250 hp level , maxing out my t2 turbo :), but the thing is that my 87 daytona w t-top is heavy

[shelbydave]

I'm using one. So far, so good. I'm not putting out any huge power though as I'm still tweaking. It has seen 15 pounds at one point, but I turned it down to 10-12 for now.
I got mine from Turbos Unleashed. The only thing I had trouble getting used to is where it catches, but it feels pretty good.

[shelbymonster]

thx , yeah im looking for the kevlar from TU

[OmniLuvr]

ive had a little expierience, and yes, you burn/glaze it once, its TOAST! the first clutch gripped and felt good, but the cage (or lack there of) for the hub springs failed and there were spring pieces floating around inside the bell housing. the second one wasnt bad either at first, but the cable wasnt adjusted right on the first real boost session (18 psi stock everything) and it slipped. we got back, adjusted cable, but the damage was done, it wouldnt hold over 14 psi after that. i think he was running a blue plate? im not sure, thats just what i remember, like a dark blue?

and i havent checked to see if he has improved the spring cage design yet?

[Murphy]

I put one in my 3.0 car summer 09 and lost the springs in spring 10. I loved the way it felt, I'm still undecided on getting another one since the stock clutch holds a 50 shot

[Juggy]

im a big fan of the revlok disc

been running one for 3 years now and beat the snot out of it for 2 years, after I got it used...
then when I found out you can blast them clean I happened to take care of that when I swapped in the new PP earlier this year.

so ya it grips like a mofo and you can blast em clean after they start to get glazed up....and even my somewhat glazed revlok still had enough grab to try and shear the PP disc from the diaphragm :eyebrows:

[shelbymonster]

thx guys ! ill give chris a call to see !

[mcsvt]

I used the kevlar disc from TU for about 2 years in an 89 Daytona with a 2.5L, +40's and ~20psi. No slip. Not a ton of power, but probably similar to yours.

[shelbymonster]

one of my friend is telling me that i should use a centerforce twin disc ... anyone here had tried it ? i need something that is smoth and can handle 28 psi in a heavy car ...

[GLHS069]

ive had a little expierience, and yes, you burn/glaze it once, its TOAST! the first clutch gripped and felt good, but the cage (or lack there of) for the hub springs failed and there were spring pieces floating around inside the bell housing. the second one wasnt bad either at first, but the cable wasnt adjusted right on the first real boost session (18 psi stock everything) and it slipped. we got back, adjusted cable, but the damage was done, it wouldnt hold over 14 psi after that. i think he was running a blue plate? im not sure, thats just what i remember, like a dark blue?

and i havent checked to see if he has improved the spring cage design yet?

He has. I just replaced my kevlar clutch with the blue plate and the center hub of the clutch is way beefier looking. I had the same issue with the springs. I'm running around 18-20 psi and somewhere near 300 hp in an Omni.

[OmniLuvr]

thats good to know, this was over a year ago. even the replacement we got from him that smoked, started to lose the springs, so we just trashed it, other then that, it was a good clutch...

[MR. X]

anyone use it ? im looking for a new clutch right now and kevlar seems a good choise for street , feel free to help me :eyebrows:

I love the Kevlar clutches. Engagement is similar to organic, but they stick like ceramic. They also do not score the flywheel like the ceramic.

http://www.mrxmotors.com/index_files/kevlar_clutch.htm

[MR. X]

I've never run Kevlar. Thought about it, but when I read that IF you glaze Kevlar, it's done and won't come back. Well that kind of turned me off.

Now I don't know how easy it is to glaze or how true it is that it can't come back from glazing, but it sounded too risky to try at my power level.

Glazing is caused by heat. Kevlar dissipates heat way more efficiently that organic or ceramic. Therefore its really hard to glaze them up. I have been running them exclusively on my clients cars and my personal fleet for the last 3 years or so. I have used them up to 400HP on the turbo Dodges and I have a Kevlar disk we made in my 600HP SRT4 that is holding up well.

[Shadow]

Glazing is caused by heat. Kevlar dissipates heat way more efficiently that organic or ceramic. Therefore its really hard to glaze them up. I have been running them exclusively on my clients cars and my personal fleet for the last 3 years or so. I have used them up to 400HP on the turbo Dodges and I have a Kevlar disk we made in my 600HP SRT4 that is holding up well.


How much does the disc in your SRT-4 weigh?

[MR. X]

How much does the disc in your SRT-4 weigh?

I didn't weigh it. We used a stock modular clutch off of an SRT4. I replaced the springs in the disk and installed Kevlar linings. I want to see what the limits of it are so I can rate it. I wont know until I get a few more miles on it.

[Shadow]

I didn't weigh it. We used a stock modular clutch off of an SRT4. I replaced the springs in the disk and installed Kevlar linings. I want to see what the limits of it are so I can rate it. I wont know until I get a few more miles on it.

Well let us know how it goes. Dyno #'s don't mean alot around here, specially when it comes to what a clutch can really hold! Gonna need some real track #'s on slicks to see what that disc can do and 7000+ RPM shifting with no issues. :thumb:

[Reeves]

Well let us know how it goes. Dyno #'s don't mean alot around here, specially when it comes to what a clutch can really hold! Gonna need some real track #'s on slicks to see what that disc can do and 7000+ RPM shifting with no issues. :thumb:

x2 :thumb:

[MR. X]

Well let us know how it goes. Dyno #'s don't mean alot around here, specially when it comes to what a clutch can really hold! Gonna need some real track #'s on slicks to see what that disc can do and 7000+ RPM shifting with no issues. :thumb:

I agree. I have had some pretty iffy designs hold mad power and some real nice designs fall flat on their face, lol.

I run my cars on a Mustang Dyno and it has an option for drag racing that is surprisingly accurate. Its fun to drag race in the winter, albeit not really moving anywhere. I have to tune the car again and get it to the track in the next couple of weeks.

I am marketing the modular units as an upgrade from stock in terms of increased life and a slight increase in power handling.

I am working on a SRT4 unit that will handle 400hp and 600hp and compete directly with the very expensive ACT units.

[shelbymonster]

i guess that some vendors starting to get a lot of competition ! i didnt make my mind yet on the clutch , i dont need an overkill one , 300 tq capable and streetable and kind of same engagement than a stock clutch

[jeff1234]

I have one from T/U I believe the pressure plate was blue. I have found it hard to use like a stock clutch, it chatters. If you apply more rev's and then slip the clutch a little it is then very smooth. I did the resurfacing of the flywheel at the machine shop I took it to (they allowe me to run the surfacer) and got it as smooth as possible. The new flywheel I have for my 2.5 was resurfaced by the machine shop that did my engine work. It's rougher. I was thinking of polishing it with a D/A and 380 grit. Any thoughts on that brilliant idea? :confused2: