03 PT GT: timing belt and trans fluid

[Clay]

Ok, Ive got some maintenance items that I need to take care of on my 03 PTGT.

Im not to concerned about the trans fluid. Is this as straight forward as any other trans Ive done? Drop pan, change fluid, change filter, put back together?

The thing Im more worried about is the timing belt. Any tips, tricks, or hints? Any speciality tools required? Any good write ups on how to do it? Ive looked up a bit on it, but nothing that I consider really top notch.

Thanks!
Clay

[Big_P]

You are going to hate life when you do the t-belt.

Replace the idler, tensioner and water pump while you're in there because you're never going to want to do it again.

Anywho, mine was a 5 speed and I hear they have one more motor mount than the automatic, which is good for you.

You will bruise knuckles. You have to take the cam gears off to remove the plastic backing plate that hides the water pump.

T-belt and W-P took me almost 9 hours.

[Turbozcs2003]

I would also do the cam and crank seals. The cam seals walk, so locitite the bastards in when you put the new ones on.

[contraption22]

My only experiences with PT cruisers is looking around under the hood. If I had to do a belt on it... I'd drop the whole motor! lol

[turbovanman²]

My only experiences with PT cruisers is looking around under the hood. If I had to do a belt on it... I'd drop the whole motor! lol

I have to agree, lol. I've never done one but plenty of Neon's, so Pete's advice on replacing all that stuff is bang on.

[DOHCRT]

Send that biotch to the dealer...I do all of teh maintenance on my 9 cars as well as most of my friends stuff, but I refused to do the H2O pump and timing belt on my mom's PT. Have to de-pressurize the A/C lines to get to the motormount (Really?!?).

Vic in Phoenix

92 Spirit R/T
89 CSX
88 CSX-TIII
87 CSX
87 Shelby Lancer (Parts for Sale)
84 Rampage TII
97 Ram (Buzzin Half Dozen)
69 Dart GT 'Vert
73 Dart Sport (For Sale)

[Mopar318]

The timing belt was a PITA to remove even on the engine stand. The pulley go on AFTER the covers so EVERYTHING has to come off.

One good thing is everything is marked with timing marks so its easy to time.

Good luck!

[Big_P]

Send that biotch to the dealer...I do all of teh maintenance on my 9 cars as well as most of my friends stuff, but I refused to do the H2O pump and timing belt on my mom's PT. Have to de-pressurize the A/C lines to get to the motormount (Really?!?).


I did it without discharging the A/C but it would certainly be easier to do that and remove the line that's in the way.

[Sgt Craig]

Send that biotch to the dealer...I do all of teh maintenance on my 9 cars as well as most of my friends stuff, but I refused to do the H2O pump and timing belt on my mom's PT. Have to de-pressurize the A/C lines to get to the motormount (Really?!?).

Vic in Phoenix

92 Spirit R/T
89 CSX
88 CSX-TIII
87 CSX
87 Shelby Lancer (Parts for Sale)
84 Rampage TII
97 Ram (Buzzin Half Dozen)
69 Dart GT 'Vert
73 Dart Sport (For Sale)

I agree,take it to somebody to do.If i owned one it would go to the dealer or another shop.Ive done two already this month and hated ever freakin hour of it.2nd one had been wrecked before in the front so it was more of a pia to do.Ive never removed the the a/c lines, i do take the front corre support out to gain easier access to the power steeering pump bolts.

[Clay]

Im not much on having someone else do a job I can certainly do myself. Especially when they charge $60 or $70 per hour book time, plus parts. I bet this is a $700 or $800 job...... and only $200 in parts.

I can park it, and drive something else for a few days if I need to.... :)

thanks for all the replys so far guys. I appreciate it.

[glhs0426]

Book time is 7.9hr. It is MUCH easier to discharge the a/c and fold the lines forward. Ditto on the core support. There is a lot of raising lowering of the engine to access things and remove/install things. Make sure you have one of those short jawed pullers with the magnetic fingers that hold the jaws in place!

My .02 for removal:

SBEC cars unplug the PCM connector that is closest to the throttle body and the two wire IAC connector for clearance--remove the PCV fresh air hose off the end of the valve cover for clearance--remove grille--remove upper core support--remove three bolts on power steering pump (13mm)--remove two bolts on power steering bracket (15mm)--unplug ECT and a/c high pressure cutout on the back of the compressor (less likely to break them)--discharge a/c--unbolt a/c lines and tie forward for clearance (13mm)--remove upper mount (one 18mm and two 15mm)--remove two bolts on power steering resevoir to give clearance for moving return line out of the way (13mm)--remove RF tire--remove vertical brace (15mm)--remove splash shield--remove lower mount (18mm)--remove serpentine belt (15mm)--remove balancer (19mm)--loosen the lower bolt on the engine mount--remove the four screws on the lower timing cover (8mm)--support engine--remove circular plug in frame--remove center mount bolt (T55)--raise engine--remove two upper bolts on engine mount bracket--remove engine mount bracket with the lower bolt--remove the upper timing cover (8mm)--lower engine--install the balancer bolt tightly--center engine--time the engine--MAKE NOTE OF EXACTLY HOW IT TIMES OR YOU WILL PULL YOUR HAIR OUT--raise engine--loosen the cam bolts (18mm)--remove tension from the timing belt--remove belt (intake cam will snap one tooth forward)--remove cam gears--remove idler (17mm)--remove rear timing cover (?four? 8mm and two 13mm)--remove water pump (?four? 10mm).

When tensioning the late style tensioner rotate the cam in the direction of the arrow until the window goes just past center of the spring finger (this will not work unless there is tension on the pulley). After you rotate the crankshaft two revolutions to verify timing the window on the tensioner should be centered on the spring finger.

John

[Big_P]

A job like that that's 8 hours book time, shop would probably sell the t-belt "kit" with water pump, idler pulley, tensioner, etc, which is probably 300 bones, I'd bet more like a $1000 job.

[glhs0426]

Yep, about $1k if it gets everything.

I can't stress enough the fact that the timing marks are not perfect on a 2.4L. If you line up the cam gears perfect, the crank is off a half tooth. If you line up the crank perfect the cam gears don't line up quite right. After you fight the thing to get everything apart you are just a little put out and gear alignment can be really frustrating, so, if the belt isn't broken line everything up before you take the tension off the belt.

John

[Big_P]

Yep, it took me a few tries to get it right. And to re-set the timing after you get it wrong the first time is a pain in the --- too!

[Mopar318]

Well damn, I didnt mark anything taking my timing belt off, But I get to time it on an engine stand.:thumb:

[MR. X]

It is a time consuming job. It still takes us about 8 hours to do it.

[onerippinturbo2]

It is a time consuming job. It still takes us about 8 hours to do it.

as it does me as well, i have done a few of these so far, i have always discharged the a/c just to gain some much needed room. i agree about the timing marks, they leave a pretty sour taste in ur mouth seeing the way they line up is kinda lack lusture to say the least and leave alot to be desired. not an impossible job, just not as easy as a good ol 2.2l!

[MR. X]

That's why I love the 2.2's

[glhs0426]

The older these cars get the fewer warranty timing belts/water pumps I have to replace @ 5.3hr. I'm going to really dislike the lifetime powertrain warranty PT's because those items are covered. If you do enough of these it's just work and not a pain anymore.

John

[MR. X]

Im still trying to get used to the SRT4 Neon timing belts, LOL

[onerippinturbo2]

The older these cars get the fewer warranty timing belts/water pumps I have to replace @ 5.3hr. I'm going to really dislike the lifetime powertrain warranty PT's because those items are covered. If you do enough of these it's just work and not a pain anymore.

John

wow, mopar is covering the belt shoud it break and take out valves?? well the customer no longer has to worry about a tbelt job any more on these cars then, which sucks to be honest.

[glhs0426]

wow, mopar is covering the belt shoud it break and take out valves?? well the customer no longer has to worry about a tbelt job any more on these cars then, which sucks to be honest.

Maintenance is 105,000miles on the belt. There are quite a few cars out there with the lifetime powertrain. If the maintenance has not been done or can't be proven after the required mileage, no coverage. If it breaks during a warrantiable period, it's covered along with resulting damage.

John

[Big_P]

I thought it was 90k? In that case I did my t-belt/wp 15k to early :o

[Clay]

it says 90K in my owner's manual.

[glhs0426]

2.0/2.4/3.5/4.0 they all run together. Different years different schedules. One of 'em is 105k.


I did a water pump/timing belt on a 2004 Stratus today. Yuck! I'll take the PT 10:1.

[turbovanman²]

I did a water pump/timing belt on a 2004 Stratus today. Yuck! I'll take the PT 10:1.

I love doing those, money makers, :amen:

[glhs0426]

Two PT's a day or 1.25 Stratus'. I'll take the PT's.

[turbovanman²]

Two PT's a day or 1.25 Stratus'. I'll take the PT's.

Haven't done a PT but done a few Status's, so right now, I'll take 2 Status's, :amen:

[Big_P]

Huh? I thought the PT was harder than the Stratus... Done both. None are fun!

[glhs0426]

I guess I'm just used to the PT. The strut tower really gets in my way on the Stratus. Maybe it's just a left handed thing?

[Big_P]

I'm a lefty too!

iirc the A/C pressure line was not in the way of the stratus where it was on the PT.

[tryingbe]

I thought it was 90k? In that case I did my t-belt/wp 15k to early :o

N/A is 90k, Turbo is 105k

2004 owner manual.

http://www.chrysler.com/download/pdf/manuals/2004_PT_Cruiser.pdf?myyear=10&myvehicle=4&o-download-button.x=28&o-download-button.y=6