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View Full Version : I need help with a list on what to do



Mustanghater
06-19-2006, 07:29 PM
I need help with making a list on what I need to buy first for my car. I want to run low 13's high 12's with your guys help cause I have no clue on what I'm doing. What should I buy power to get my project started?

The S is Silent
06-19-2006, 09:17 PM
Jack it up and grab the front wheels and see if you can wiggle them. They shouldn't move at all. If they do, put new front hubs and bearings on the list. Next take the wheel off and check your brake pads. See if you need to replace those. Also check the boots on your ball joints and tie rod ends. If the boots are torn, you'll need to replace those the boots, or replace the tie rod ends and ball joints completely. Also check the control arm bushings...if they are cracked to hell and worn, change those too with some polyurethane bushings. Do whatever you need to do to check your shocks and struts.

That should do it for your suspension and brakes, and should improve the feel of the car.

Is the car 2.2 TII I'm guessing? Once we know exactly what you're starting with, we can work on the engine :)

Whorse
06-19-2006, 09:21 PM
Brilliant Response. Check you CV joints as well. Replace any torn boots, make sure there is absolutely no clicking around right corners if you get on it. If your rear shocks and springs are at all soft, upgrade them. If your car squats like mine you'll be kicking yourself everytime you shift gears.

GLHNSLHT2
06-19-2006, 11:11 PM
remember guys he's a youngin if I remember. Needs to get out and drive the car a bit before making it faster. Don't need a kid running around in a 300hp car when he has no experience driving it. You can go plenty fast with 200hp. Even a big heavy tona will run 13's on 200hp.

Whorse
06-19-2006, 11:14 PM
:P I'm young too. Learning to drive is important (I took a driving school), but if you want to go fast, making your car capable of handling it is very important, hence the comments on brakes, axles, suspension, etc...

GLHNSLHT2
06-19-2006, 11:21 PM
yeah agreed. make sure it's in good mechanical shape 1st. Just letting future posters know he needs to be able to hold onto the reins before he can fly.

turbovanman²
06-20-2006, 03:55 AM
Make sure all the tune-up stuff is good, has good compression, rad doesn't leak, hoses good etc.

Then go to www.thedodgegarage.com scroll to the turbo database section and spend a few days reading, and rereading. That will give you some killer insight on what works and what doesn't. Then you can come back and ask more questions, :nod:

GLHSKEN
06-20-2006, 06:39 AM
remember guys he's a youngin if I remember. Needs to get out and drive the car a bit before making it faster. Don't need a kid running around in a 300hp car when he has no experience driving it. You can go plenty fast with 200hp. Even a big heavy tona will run 13's on 200hp.


^^^^^ AMEN :amen: All you are going to do is pop pistons trying for too much too soon. No folks are not telling you this due to your age. It's because even us old timers have done the SAME thing. Getting to 12's with my GLHS cost a few pistons, trannies and lots of hard work (very few Hi po parts though)

MopàrBCN
06-20-2006, 08:52 AM
Hi, Forget the 13s and 12s for a while. You got some work to do first. 100% Agree on the first tune up. Besides the obvious (breaks, suspension etc.) check on fluids and filters. Read your Spark Plugs to get a clue if fuel admission and mixture is correct or if they tell you other things. Besides the obvious literature (Chilton, Haynes or Factory Manuals) make use of sites like the already mentioned Dodge Garage (www.thedodgegarage.com) and http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/
Check if all your Sensors a working properly, if ignition timing is Ok, and check the state of Distributor Cap and Rotor (not to mention cables and plugs).

If you have an automatic tranny installed (I cant remember having seen it in your car spec) one of the most important fluids to check is the tranny fluid - not only its quantity but especially its quality. If it looks bad don't even think about modding anything but the tranny in the first place.

Before even touching the engine and turbo there are a few things you can do on a budget which already give you some noticable performance gains.

Get a Stage 0/1 Performance calibration (Forwardmotion was the place I ordered my from) and mod your exhaust.

Once you are there you will have an already good running car. Its up from that point that you could start putting targets. Well thats only my advice and opinion.

Whorse
06-20-2006, 10:09 AM
I think we will all agree that getting the car in good running order is a key. For the engine, a tune-up should be done before stomping on it. Oil, Plugs, Wires, Cap and Rotor, maybe clean the TB and blast the intake with some carb cleaner while it's off. Check your O2 sensor before driving it much, because a faulty O2 will make your car run rich and you'll end up with a black engine.

Not sure if anyone's mentioned this with the brakes, but probably change your brake fluid as well, and check your master cylinder level.

Do a coolant flush and replace the thermostat (make sure to use a replacement gasket, not just RTV). Look for signs of corrosion or oil in the coolant, and check the pressure of the coolant system.

Double check your electrical connections, or at least the big easy ones - Battery terminals, alternator, **GROUNDS**, TPS, AIS, anything visible.

Check all vacuum lines for leaks, and replace them if necessary. If you want to do some customizing, then get a vacuum block and make it look pretty. This is a good upgrade that isn't expensive, and while it won't gain you gobs of power, it will save you from losing it in the end (those nylon vacuum lines get hairline cracks that are HARD to find. You have to roll the lines in your fingers to find them).

I did all these things when I bought my car, even though I didn't really know why, but now in retrospect I'm thankful I did, as my car still runs great.

BIGBRUDDA
06-20-2006, 02:08 PM
How many miles, and what "shape" is this car in? :D Take some pics if you can. Have you checked for "floor board rot"? Does it make any weird sounds?
We ask these questions, make these suggestions for good reason. Chrysler turbo cars are "mucho fun", but many need significant help, due to age and milage.:blah:
Hot motors and "go fast" parts are easy enough. Ya need a good "foundation" to build on:thumb:
Notice my car names, they've earned them!

Whorse
06-20-2006, 04:00 PM
I couldn't agree more. A ratty looking TD with no rust, and a well built, smooth engine and good suspension, is a much much nicer car than one with good paint, but softening springs and shocks, greasy engine bay, but 22psi on the stock Garrett.

Murphy
06-24-2006, 03:31 PM
on to more power giving things after you have gone thru the basic tuneup and all i would go for

1) gauges - 30boost/30vac(or 25/30) and a air/fuel gauge, i would recomend the dawes device from 3barracing.com. An EGT gauge would be great, but you need to remove the exhaust manifold to install the probe. you need to know whats going on in your engine or you will pop a piston.

2) exhaust - open cutout after downpipe, or 3" turbo back mendrel bent exhaust with a high flow cat(or no cat if you dont need one) and strait thru muffler. The added flow will help your turbo spool faster and push more boost.

3) 'bolt on' prepare to raise the boost - this is where tuning comes into play. With a stock calibration, you computer is limited to 14.7psi(2bar). I believe the stock boost is 12 PSI. There are several ways to defeat the overboost shutdown listed here: http://thedodgegarage.com/turbo_map.html. I would just go with the zener diode. Next, you need a manual boost controoler. The G-valve from FWDPerformance works great. Once you start raising the boost, you will need more fuel to supprt the boost. You can do this by installing larger injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, or intall a cold start injector or 2 in the upper intercooler hose, activated by a pressure switch. You are also going to want a blow off valve to reduce compressor surge. Later on, you will want a better flowing intercooler.

4) raising the boost - slowly raise the boost and keep an eye on you air/fuel gauge to make sure your engine is getting enough fuel. If you engine does not get enough fuel, you will melt a piston. You want the be a 9/10 lights on a normal A/F gauge or green on a DD to be safe. when your DD goes yellow, you are still OK but i would suggest you add more fuel to be on the safe side.

you should be able to get to about 250hp this way before your fuel pump, and turbo run out of steam

read the dodge garage over and over to fimilarize youself with different parts and comcepts to learn how things work and good and bad ideas....it will explain things better than i can

Thos are basically my plans for my shelby Z once i get rid of the rod knock. I already have a 2-1/2 exhaust and a boost gauge(came with the car), I added a DD from my other car and a g-valve. I plan to zener diose the the map soon, and add a BOV, then i can swap in the +40's and APR from my project engine till it gets completed.........

turbo xtc
06-25-2006, 07:38 AM
welcome to the addiction of force-feed mopars we need more of them i reccommend pulling the oil pan clean it out real good theses are not like a chevy you should'nt need to update the oil pump fore a highflow oil pump but what i did is open the hole on the pump pick up and i removed the balenceshafts i noticed a differance in power right there but make sure you plug the oil hole going to the balance shaft housing this is a free power upgrade oil is the most important thing on any engine if you have a a uto tranny add a oil cooler i used one off a lincoln town car with the 4.6 it is big and holds a lot of fluid (more cooling capacity)then i found a starting injector off of a bmw these are not specific on what type to use find any kind of german built cars vw audi bmw mercedes ect.then plumb your line off of the fuel feed going in after the fuel regulator use a pressure switch or i used a micro switch of a vw rabbit they have a switch on the throttle body to tell their fuel distributor that it is at wide open throttle but before making this upgrade make sure you have a a/f gauge or a egt gauge very important and a boost gauge i never used a way to regulate the fuel for the 5th injector and i flood out a little on fuel i just got used to it so when it floods a little i let off the throttle a little then give more again. I'm running 13's right now and i have'nt had to spend a lot of money to get there but i have spent many hours tweaking and trying good luck and welcome