View Full Version : Lee's 86 Turbo Z C/S restoration

08-31-2010, 07:09 PM
As some of you know, I just recently brought home this 1986 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z with T-tops and the C/S package. I am keeping this car as a project, and it will be registered as an Historic when it turns 25 in January. I towed this car home from New York, and I plan to restore it to as close to stock as I can. Under the hood has been hacked up pretty well, with a modified log intake, A/C removed, intercooler installed, and generally a disaster under the hood, though I believe the engine will run very strong once I fix the vacuum lines. The interior was half gutted and someone began a partial roll cage. Mice have lived in this car at one time, so ultimately, the carpet will be replaced. I plan to install my burgundy leather interior from my old 87 Daytona. Here it is as it was brought home:

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/th_DSC00289.jpg (http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/?action=view&current=DSC00289.jpg)
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/th_DSC00288.jpg (http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/?action=view&current=DSC00288.jpg)
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/th_DSC00287.jpg (http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/?action=view&current=DSC00287.jpg)
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/th_DSC00286.jpg (http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/?action=view&current=DSC00286.jpg)
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/th_DSC00285.jpg (http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/?action=view&current=DSC00285.jpg)
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/th_DSC00284.jpg (http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/?action=view&current=DSC00284.jpg)
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/th_DSC00283.jpg (http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/?action=view&current=DSC00283.jpg)
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/th_DSC00282.jpg (http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/?action=view&current=DSC00282.jpg)
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/th_DSC00281.jpg (http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z19/Leesdaytona/?action=view&current=DSC00281.jpg)

09-05-2010, 02:48 PM
Well, I went over to work on the car today. I was able to hook up the MAP sensor and boost gauge again. Also hooked up the brake booster, and the PCV valve again. I thought this would help calm down the idle. Started it up, and while the boost gauge works nicely now (reads 15 PSI at idle), and the Power Loss Light is out now (assuming because the MAP is hooked up again).
I suppose cam timing could be off, and/or ignition timing. What I don't get: Why is it, when the car is idling (2,000 RPM) the vacuum gauge reads 15 PSI? As if I were pressing the gas pedal, shouldn't it move up to around 10 or 5PSI at that high RPM idle?
Tips appreciated!

10-11-2010, 07:01 PM
I went back today, and pulled the AIS motor. It has the motor, and a plastic housing, but seems to be missing something. The motor has a small gear on it, which looks like it should turn some sort of vent opening. The gear engages with nothing. Is something missing from my AIS motor? Auto parts stores can't order it, so I guess I'll have to go used, or dealer.
I also started replacing fuel lines. Anyone know the correct line size for the fuel filter? 3/8" is too big, and 1/4 is too small, so is there a 5/16" line?

10-11-2010, 07:04 PM
Oh yeah, and PS, the pizza wheels which were sitting in front of my car were stolen. No surprise there. I really didn't want them anyway, the tires were shot too. In this area, I wasn't surprised at all. Just hope my car stays safe. The hood pins make me nervous. I don't have a way to lock the hood down just yet.

10-20-2010, 01:04 AM
Are you putting crab wheels on it all around? I think the C/S looks best with the crabs out of all the oem styles.

06-11-2011, 01:48 PM
Well, I made a big step today. I got to drive my car for the first time! It was a bit of a scary ride though! I drove it straight to the tire shop to get new tires. I had no power steering! All the fluid was gone, and I never realized it. The blinkers don't blink, the horn doesn't honk, and the brakes, which was the main reason this was off the road, worked quite well, until the double flared union on a line for the rear passenger brakes started leaking! Good thing I was only a block from home, and I did have half of the brake pedal left. Looks like I need help doing flares on lines better.
The bad news for me is, I'm missing 5th gear (525, shocking). Anyone have advice for this problem? I'd like to stick with the 525 because I am only going to use this car for pleasure driving, and not racing. I'd like to keep the car as original as possible. I think the trans was run without oil for some time (cover was leaking), and I believe 5th is the first to go? The shifter will go into gear, but when you engage the clutch, it just feels like it is in Neutral.
The speedometer does not work. Usually the cable ones don't go bad, so could this mean the intermediate shaft is not spinning, or maybe the plastic speedo gear is broken?
Thanks in advance for any advice.

5sp. mini
06-11-2011, 06:06 PM
is speedo hooked up to he cruse under the battery box. as idle goes i got 2 log intake sitting out back. they are both off 85 motors could try one of them? yes my 85 has all new brake lines and 5/16 is the main fuel line and i think 1/4 is the return there is also a vapor line too.good luck

06-11-2011, 10:55 PM
Oh yeah, the idle issue I think is fixed. It idles much lower now, but I still need to tune it up, set timing properly, and reset the idle. Then it should run much much better. I've already got some leads on replacement 525s, and I think I could swap the trans in a day, maybe two.

06-28-2011, 08:54 PM
I've been working on the brakes again, because the next time I went to drive it, the pedal went to the floor. The MC is New, not remanufactured. I think there was just air in the lines. Meanwhile I bought new front calipers, because the ones that came new with the car were one pins, and the ones on the car are 2 pins.
The speedo cable was unhooked from behind the dashboard, for some reason. Certainly would explain it not working. I also have new E-brake cables on order, to fix that. I broke the adjuster threaded rod thing while trying to loosen everything up. Oh well.
The floor pan has a 2"x10" hole near the e-brake cable. Hopefully a good body shop around here can patch that up.
Then I have all the parts for a tune-up, and I'll gas it up, drive around a bit more and run it through inspection again, and cross my fingers! Wish me luck!

10-29-2011, 04:01 PM
UPDATE: Over the summer, I finally got the brakes working properly, and drove it through inspection. It failed miserably in June. I tuned it up, set the timing, new water pump, thermostat, heater core, rad cap, hoses and clamps. It finally passed inspection today! While on the dyno, a heater hose blew off. Of course, the one and only hose I didn't replace--the short crimped on hose from the thermostat to the heater control valve blew. So for $88, I got a new sticker and heater hose.

11-01-2011, 07:31 PM
Nice car man! Always been a fan of the 1st gen daytonas. The Aries is coming along, got my head back from the machine shop, can't wait to have frankenstein back together. Keep me updated when you get it running. Nick

11-01-2011, 08:57 PM
Hey Nick,
I am going to attempt to drive it to school tomorrow (Wednesday) So, if you have time, stop in the faculty lot behind the wood shop and you'll see it parked there, with any luck :)
Today, I installed a new radiator, because even though I was told if I flush out a 20 + year old rad, it would leak, I didn't listen. So the original rad developed a slight pinhole leak. New rad went in tonight, and I plan to take it to school for the first time.

11-03-2011, 07:19 PM
I'll have to drive by and see if its there!

11-03-2011, 09:28 PM
Nick, did you get a chance to check it out?
It made it without issue to SHS, save for the missing 5th gear, that I knew about, and have another trans waiting to go in. On the way home, near the UPS warehouse/Grounds for Sculpture on Nottingham way, I was taking off at a light, and when to shift to second, and heard CRUNCH, and GRIND, and I lost my second gear. Pulled over, and checked the cables under the hood.
I remember when this happened in my first Daytona in high school, the shifter turned to jello. Back then, Dad limped the car home somehow, and I had it towed to a trans shop so they could charge me to pull the trans, and replace all the bearings.

Well, this time, I found 3rd gear, and figured I'd stick to that. That took me another couple of miles, then at another light, it got stuck in 1st gear. I tried to drive it as fast as I could in 1st, but it then started to overheat. I got to a parking lot and let it cool. While I was waiting, I'm thinking, I remember in years past, people said when the shifter goes to jello, it is usually a cable issue. So, I pulled the console that I never bolted down, and sure enough the right side cable came unclipped. Hooked it back up, and I was back in business. Apparently, either the fan relay is bad, or the fan itself has issues.

The fan is an aftermarket motor. I pulled the coolent temp sensor, to force the fan to come on. It didn't at first. Then I manually gave the fan blade a spin, and it fired right up. So I"m thinking there might be an issue with the fan itself.
Anyway, got it back home safely, and I'll be working some more bugs out of the system :/

11-04-2011, 04:33 AM
sounds like a typical TM outing :nod: when it rains it pours. be glad you could make it back, let alone fix it.

is the fan wired into the original harness? check the fusible link (orange, if I remember). those things are worthless.

11-04-2011, 08:14 PM
All I can say is the small bay of relays are all hooked up to the wiring harness that is totally wrapped in electrical tape, so who knows whats under there. I took it to school again today, and it ran fine.

A few questions:

1: When I got it, the PS pump leaked, so no PS. I replaced the pump and no more leaks. It works mostly fine, but sometimes on turns, the wheel will get tough to turn and then become easy to turn again. I'm guessing there is air in the system. I thought the way to remove the air, is to sit at a stand still and turn the wheel lock to lock. I have done this a few times, but still the same issue. Any advice?

2: I've got to get this wiring issue fixed with the radio cutting out when other loads are introduced. For example, when the dome light comes on, or the glovebox light, the radio stops working. The clock blinks with the turn signal. The power windows work only when the door is closed (Dome light out). So could all this be caused by a bad ground, or is something else going on here?

3: I have realized there is nothing wrong with my temp gage I thought was in-op. It works fine, as the overheating demonstrated. I've got a stock thermostat with the 1/16" hole in the top, and the gage just is always on cold, unless I stop in traffic or at a light. New heater core, and basically new entire cooling system. The heat is weak too, unless when at lights and the gage moves up to about 1/4 of the way. Both my turbo mini and the daytona seem to run cold. I remember my Pacifica in high school the temp gage was always about in the middle. Anyone have anything similar?

4: How difficult is it to remove the headliner in a T-Top? Is it difficult to remove the trim around the T-top glass without damage to remove the headliner board?

11-15-2011, 08:56 PM
Hey, sorry I haven't had internet. I haven't had a chance to stop by and check it out yet, I started a new job at Lawrence Toyota and I've been pretty busy, but I definitely want to see it. Hope you can get your car at least partially shaken down before the snow hits. Got my k car fired up this weekend, car runs awesome! At first when I started it and had it running it made the most horrible metallic nails on a chalkboard rotating kinda sound, and it had me freaking out. I thought I screwed something up big time, so the next day I pulled off the lower flexplate cover on the trans, and sure enough the edge of the cover got bent up just enough to scrape against the flexplate when running. Pulled it out and it went away, and all was well. I drove the car to work the next day, I had EVERY head turned in the shop, especially all the Honda kids. They got a kick out of it :P Anyway, later that night my brake pedal went to the floor at the light by Whitehorse Mercerville and Rt 33, pulled into the gas station and sure enough had a big puddle under the driver side rear! Well there goes my original brake lines, for the second time. Time to tear them out. So for now its parked at my gf's house, waiting to swap in a 4 wheel disc setup from a vnt lebaron with all new lines. I hope to be running a solid 18 psi by spring.

11-15-2011, 09:24 PM
Wow, thats so cool you got it running again! Sorry to hear about the brake issue, but at least you and the car are safe! My car is down for the count at the moment. I've got a fuel issue, the injectors are not getting enough current, so says the code. Either a bad harness, or maybe a leaky injector, and I know I need to replace the FPR. Steinert is keeping me busy these days, so the car will sit for a little while. The turbo mini is still getting me around everyday :)

11-16-2011, 10:38 PM
Hey it gives me a reason to finally convert it to 4 wheel disc.. as long as I'm driving it come spring I'll be happy. You have a log intake right? Ever thought of converting to a 1pc intake with intercooler? Its probably much easier to work with, not to mention you can run over 10 psi without boost stacking. Just my $.02.

11-16-2011, 10:55 PM
Yes, currently I have a modified log done by the P/O for a front mounted intercooler. My first Daytona (87 pacifica) I did convert to TII, and while I do like that setup much better, I am looking to restore this 86 Turbo Z to totally stock. I am happy with a good running TI 7 PSI boost, with a totally stock Log intake.

11-18-2011, 09:15 PM
I got you, yea that should be pretty cool.. although I think the dc top mount intercooler is really cool. Hard to find too. Well as long as you can work out all the bugs it should be nice when its done.

03-18-2012, 09:08 PM
Pulled the old 525 last week. I am preparing to install a built 525. Is there a source for the bushings under the shifter cables at the transmission side? Is it worth the effort to replace them or will it not make any difference?

During this time, I will swap in the original log setup, with factory air box, and replace all the engine/trans mounts with poly bushings from Johnny. Also it is getting a new power steering rack which was leaking like crazy! New driver's axle, pass looks newer. New tie rod ends as well. This thing should be in good shape when I get through with it!

03-18-2012, 11:47 PM

04-21-2012, 05:16 PM
Yes i need to get pictures...
Well anyway, the new transmission is ready to be bolted up. New poly bushings and mounts are going in along with a new PS rack.
I am in need of replacement seatbelts for the driver and passenger. The webbing got torn up by the roll cage. I am having little luck finding good used or NOS black seatbelts. The bigger issue, perhaps, is I can't remove them! Due to the T-top, the body was reinforced, and I can pull both bolts, but cannot fit the unit out of the body. Any advice on this? Also, anyone ever try or have luck getting the original belts restored by a company that specializes in this?

05-15-2012, 09:33 PM
The car moved under it's own power for the first time in 3 months today! Over this time, the car got a new transmission, PS rack and high pressure line, and I swapped back in a standard unmodified Log intake, but took the gamble of not removing the exhaust mani to change the gasket.
The car started right up after the fuel made its way up to the rail on the first turn of the key. It does idle a bit high, (2,000 RPM) but this was an issue before, and the ignition timing needs to be set again.
After only a few minutes of running, it started smoking from behind the engine, closer to the PS pump. The smoke looked just like and smelled just like it did when there was a huge PS leak. I HOPE this is not the intake swap that is causing the smoking and is only PS fluid left over that is just burning off?
I remembered there is a missing clamp on the rubber hose for the return line. Would this have enough pressure to spray the exhaust manifold?

04-06-2013, 11:01 AM
Greetings all!
My daytona has been sitting since September. I finally had a chance to do some work on it, and drive it around a lot more. Overall, it is running quite well, especially for sitting for that long with old gas.


A few questions:

1: Last I drove it months ago, I had it up to 85 MPH and it road great. I put new tires on it last year. The front driver tire was low due to a leaky stem. Took care of that. Just at about 65 MPH now, the steering wheel and dash were vibrating pretty badly. Its started to clam down, but it seems intermittent. Could there be a "flat spot" in the tire causing this? I had a C/V joint go out on my caravan that did a similar thing, but the driver's side CV axle is new and ran fine back when I drove it.

2: I am still dealing with a high idle at times. Mostly it runs and idles great. Sometimes when I start it up, it idles up to 3,000 RPM, but after driving for some time, it calms back down. The other day, when I went to downshift, it stalled, and restarted with the engaging of the clutch. When I stopped the car, it stalled. Could there be an intermittent signal to the AIS motor or something?

3: What should the boost be set at for a 2.2 TI log with the Mopar Performance logic module? The Grainger valve is still set from the P/O to somewhere around 12 or 13 PSI, and I think that is dangerously high. I need to readjust.

Thanks for any advice!