Recently Aquired 1985 GLHT, general questions

[PunKid]

I finally stepped into the turbo mopar world.

I got a 1985 GLHT. Previous owner started pulling the interior in hopes of repairing the rust, but the rust is almost beyond repair. It appears to be a bone stock T1 setup.

At the moment I am concentrating on getting the engine bay back together to verify the healthiness of the drive train.

I was able to get it all back together and even get it to run.

I have no service manual yet and I have a few wires that are unknown at the moment. One is near the computer in the air box. Its a single wire that comes from the harness and goes into a 1 wire connector which is then cut about 3inch afterwards. I can't remember the color at the moment. I think once I have a wiring diagram I should be able to figure it out.

Next is my "power loss" light is on. Codes I pulled are 12, 33, 54, 55. I think 12 was just battery disconnected recently, 33 was AC relay not working (non ac car) 54 was distributor Sync, and 55 end of codes. There was a yellow wire disconnected in the harness going to the computer on the passenger side kick panel. I hooked it back up but I still have the same four codes.

I Also need to manually check oil pressure. The sender for the idiot light did not function (light was always off even with engine off) I was able to thread in a sender from my 440 and it turned on, and then turns off with the engine, but I have no clue what pressure it shuts the light off. The sender for the gage also does not seam to work. Once I build a manual gage what's a good idle oil pressure for these motors?

Last question is if there is a way to verify boost (turbo is functioning) with an immobile car. The cars suspension is loosely installed, and there is no brakes. Usually you need some sort of load to get some boost. If I removed the vacuum line off the waste gate would it maybe build some boost at part throttle and some RPM?

Once I verify the engine is good I can rip it out and fully evaluate the severity of the rust.

So anyone in the New England Area have a rust free Omni or Horizon?

[cordes]

OK, you can start to read a little about the electrical issues in this link.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/index.html

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/index.html

I wouldn't worry about the turbo right now. I also wouldn't worry about the motor too much either really. If the car is salvageable that is still the hardest part of everything. The motor and electronics will be easy by way of comparison.

[PunKid]

OK, you can start to read a little about the electrical issues in this link.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/index.html

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/index.html

I wouldn't worry about the turbo right now. I also wouldn't worry about the motor too much either really. If the car is salvageable that is still the hardest part of everything. The motor and electronics will be easy by way of comparison.

Thanks for the links. I was able to look at the wire today, its a red wire (or pink) with a faint blue tracer coming from the same harness as the 10 wire connector it also has fusible link which then goes to a one wire connector and then to a black wire, and then its cut. I am pretty sure it should go to 12v+. This is not the same pink wire on the 10wire connector, its completely different wire and a little smaller gage. Anyone have a wiring diagram of what it could be, or a car with this wire?

Unfortunately I really doubt I will be able to save this shell, this is why I am looking more into the engine first. I currently looking for a rust free shell, but if I cannot find one before winter then I might try to save this one.

[cordes]

Are you talking about the 10 wire connector at the power module?

[PunKid]

yes the computer thats in the airbox

[cordes]

If this doesn't do it for you, I'll dig up some diagrams, scan and post them.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/pm-1985-turbo.html

This link shows all of the fusible links.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/electrical-powerfeeds.html

[PunKid]

Yes I looked through that. Unfortunately its bundled into that wiring harness but does not actually go to that connector. I think a wiring diagram should show it.

And from that web site it looks like there is only 3 things that used an orange fusible link. so it could be Rad fan, Flashers, or Ignition feed. I seriously doubt its the ignition because I did get the car to run. I have not heard the fan come on yet but I have not really run it long enough yet. And I know the hazards do not work, but I also tried connecting this wire to 12v+ and trying the hazard again with no luck.

On a completely different note my fuel pressure went to zero and I can no longer get the car to run. I can still here the pump kick on. I was told originally by the previous owner that it had a fuel pump problem. So I got some more work to do.

[PunKid]

Well I got the pumps to work again. and I built an oil pressure gauge.

Cold idle oil pressure was 62psi
Hot oil pressure was 10psi (actually maybe lower)

It sounds like it has a loose rocker. I am going to put some fresh oil in it and retest.

[cordes]

Here are the fuses and fusible links. They are for 87' but should be the same on all the turbo L body cars.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/909/87fuses.jpg

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/909/87fuses2.jpg

[PunKid]

Ok cool, that just confirms that regardless of what it does it needs 12v+ I am betting now its the hazards or rear defrost.

Is the only fuse panel for these cars under the drivers dash? or is there another panel in the engine compartment? I guess no and they just rely on the fusable links.

Anyone have any comments on my oil pressure?

[cordes]

It is just the fusible links under the hood and the fuse block under the dash.

Your oil pressure looks fine. 10PSI hot idle is fine. I think the minimum is supposedly 6psi.

[my02R/T]

I got a 84 or 85 omni, needs paint & rust free. NOT Running. Have all the parts to make a glh non-turbo clone. It is for for sale. I am in eastern PA if interested.

[PunKid]

PM sent!

[PunKid]

Ok I figure a couple pictures are in order for you guys.

these were they day I got it, maybe a month or two ago

http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr291/PunKid8888/GLH/cdc2439b.jpg

http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr291/PunKid8888/GLH/IMG_0507.jpg

http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr291/PunKid8888/GLH/IMG_0509.jpg

http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr291/PunKid8888/GLH/IMG_0510.jpg

http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr291/PunKid8888/GLH/IMG_0508.jpg


And After some simple green and a little sponge action

http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr291/PunKid8888/GLH/IMG_0511.jpg

http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr291/PunKid8888/GLH/IMG_0513.jpg

Its such a shame that someone spent the time and money to repaint this car at one point and totally avioded the massive rot going on under the car. I hope to use as much of this car as possible. I will get some photos of the rust later today

[SilverFleet]

Fix the damn rust!!!! You have a welder, a HUGE garage, and all winter! get going! :D:eyebrows::D


(I'll come watch you weld the floors in so I can learn how to do the same to my CSX ;))

[Vigo]

Fix the damn rust!!!! You have a welder, a HUGE garage, and all winter! get going!


(I'll come watch you weld the floors in so I can learn how to do the same to my CSX )

^ I vote for this one!

[SilverFleet]

^ I vote for this one!

I've seen the extensive rust on this thing. It's really, really bad, but I still think it would be easier to fix than to find another car, swap everything over, and start over.

[Vigo]

Yes, and THEN pay for a decent paint job OR do the large amount of work required yourself?

Ive done a lot of swap-everything type deals on turbo mopars and the more i do it the more i kind of refine my beliefs about whats worth fixing and what isnt.. Id try to fix this one, but im also itching for an excuse to try this rust repair thing.. and down here in texas i dont really have any excuses to do it other than a tiny bit in my 1980 plymouth.

[PunKid]

Yes, and THEN pay for a decent paint job OR do the large amount of work required yourself?

Ive done a lot of swap-everything type deals on turbo mopars and the more i do it the more i kind of refine my beliefs about whats worth fixing and what isnt.. Id try to fix this one, but im also itching for an excuse to try this rust repair thing.. and down here in texas i dont really have any excuses to do it other than a tiny bit in my 1980 plymouth.


I will gladly unbolt and unclip harness and suspension stuff all day long then fix "New England" rust. I don't mind southern rust, they really are two completely different animals. Here is my best way to describe the two.

Southern rust = small localized areas of rust usually developing into a hole. Wire brush or media blasting around the area will show solid metal only an inch or two away, cut an inch away and weld in a new piece of metal. :D

New England rust = bubbling paint, Wire brush and or media blasting will reveal an area 10 times the size is actually paper thin and has pin holes through out, everything you touch crumbles, trying to find solid metal brings you all the way to the roof. Remove drive train and put into a vehicle with southern rust :thumb:

I will get the pictures this weekend.

[thedon809]

Sell me your sending unit.

[PunKid]

here is a video of when I got it running.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17cr39GUdPo

The distributor Sync is not working so its in Limp mode and will not rev up cleanly. It also has a little miss at idle. Its tough to hear in the video but when I rev it up you can kind of hear what sounds like a loose rocker or something. I have yet to take the valve cover off yet.

[OmniLuvr]

u should cut out the whole floor pan and make it tube cahssis ;) im choppin up a california omni right now, what parts of the floor do you need?

[Vigo]

when I rev it up you can kind of hear what sounds like a loose rocker or something.

Story of my life. Owning all these motors has DIS-educated me about motor noises. They all make some kind of noise and i never seem to diagnose them correctly anymore...:o

[trannybuster]

Story of my life. Owning all these motors has DIS-educated me about motor noises. They all make some kind of noise and i never seem to diagnose them correctly anymore...:o

Correct, reminds me of a slant six, they ALWAYS made noise. In fact one day I told a friend 'Im going to fix that noise on my slant six' and I did. I thightened up the adjustable rocker arms, no more noise but it was a gutless turd and I had to undo all that work...:o

Unless its a rod knock drive it, itll be just fine!!

[PunKid]

u should cut out the whole floor pan and make it tube cahssis ;) im choppin up a california omni right now, what parts of the floor do you need?


Halfway up the firewall all the way to the rear seat pans. :thumb:


The noise makes me a little nervous. Its actually a touch louder then your average noisy valve train. My 440 in my D100 has all new lifter/cam/rocker and right at 2500rpm cruising it sounds Horrible. It has sounded like that from day one and it has well over 7000 miles on it, and close to 60 passes at the track.

So I am hoping its a ligit loose rocker, if not it might be a rod. I will know more then I pull it.

[OmniLuvr]

that prob wouldnt be cost effective to ship the whole floor of an omni across the U.S.:o