Want to Rewire my fuel pump

[1966 dart wagon]

Car is a 89 daytona 2.5 with turbo II stuff, walbro 255 pump.

I've been putting this off for quite a while and I think I'm going to finally do it, I want to make my fuel pump run of a relay that will make it get direct battery voltage, allowing my walbro to pump more fuel.

I was looking through another good site for info:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/smec-1988-t2.html

And couldn't find what output triggers the fuel pump. My second question was, the other wire coming off of the fuel pump pigtail is ground correct, dumb question but just making sure, would you guys just leave this wiring alone or run it to a new ground using a bigger wire, I was going to use 10g to power the pump probably just use 10g for ground if I do this.

[shadow88]

I would think if you're maxing out your pump, then sure, sounds like a great idea. If I were to go through that much hassle, I'd run my own wiring to a toggle switch in the dash for simplicity.

[1966 dart wagon]

Well thats also part of the issue, I'm going lean, assuming I have ANOTHER bad walbro, so this is a last resort, I do still have to check fuel pressure as soon as I buy another gauge, but I know this is a good upgrade and why not.

[shadow88]

I heard it's very popular amongst the faster srt-4's as they seem to drop quite a bit of voltage along the way through various connectors.

[butchsuppe]

I did just that, only the relay powers the injectors as well. BUT I adapted a power disturbution box out of a 93 Neon to the car. It's wired so the ASD relay controls the fuel pump / injectors relay as well as another relay for the coil and O2 sensor. I also ran an overlay wire to the pump.

[tryingbe]

Going lean where? What does this car have? Ported head or huge turbo? Have you tested the fuel pressure in boost?

[1966 dart wagon]

Going lean where? What does this car have? Ported head or huge turbo? Have you tested the fuel pressure in boost?


I can't since my gauge broke on me, Right now its at 15psi and goes lean almost right away on WOT, did this same exact thing when the pump tested back about a year ago, figures my luck though. Doesnt matter since I've wanted to do this for quite some time just havn't. So can anyone tell me what wire it have to use in order to trigger the relay?

[1966 dart wagon]

well bought a new fp gauge last night and tested it today. Had the car running it was just under 50 psi then when i removed the vac line to the fpr it jumped to 55psi, all is good so far.

Well I had the pump running and squeezed the return line and it jumped up to 70 psi or so, so fuel pump is junk again....:mad:

I want to get a vaccum gauge on the fpr to check it, is there a way this could be throwing off my reading, also I went out and let the gauge set on the car for a while not running, it held pressure too.

[Juggy]

well bought a new fp gauge last night and tested it today. Had the car running it was just under 50 psi then when i removed the vac line to the fpr it jumped to 55psi, all is good so far.

Well I had the pump running and squeezed the return line and it jumped up to 70 psi or so, so fuel pump is junk again....:mad:

I want to get a vaccum gauge on the fpr to check it, is there a way this could be throwing off my reading, also I went out and let the gauge set on the car for a while not running, it held pressure too.

is that not a good thing when you get more pressure after squeezing the return line????? if you did NOT get any extra pressure, then i'd assume there be a prob

are u running a TII cal on a 2.5?

[1966 dart wagon]

is that not a good thing when you get more pressure after squeezing the return line????? if you did NOT get any extra pressure, then i'd assume there be a prob

are u running a TII cal on a 2.5?

with the pump running you should be able to squeeze the return line and get 100or so psi, i was getting 70psi.

Im running the correct cal, actually turbonator for a 2.5 mtx

[1966 dart wagon]

bump

I still want to rewire my fuel pump and still cant find which wires in the engine bay feed the fp.

[zin]

bump

I still want to rewire my fuel pump and still cant find which wires in the engine bay feed the fp.

I can't recall off the top of my head what color wire it is on the ASD relay, other than to say it is NOT the blue one! (that one is the power for the inj, coil, etc.), BUT, you can probe the connector with a computer safe test light to see which one shows a ground for a few seconds when the key is turned to "run"... That will be the "signal/activation" ground the computer sends out to control the ASD relay, and should do be suitable to trigger your new fuel pump relay (connect to pin# 85, pin# 86 to ign switched 12V, pin# 30 to +on Batt etc, and pin#87 to the + side of the pump), use 12 gauge or better wire to minimize voltage drop...

Mike

[1966 dart wagon]

I can't recall off the top of my head what color wire it is on the ASD relay, other than to say it is NOT the blue one! (that one is the power for the inj, coil, etc.), BUT, you can probe the connector with a computer safe test light to see which one shows a ground for a few seconds when the key is turned to "run"... That will be the "signal/activation" ground the computer sends out to control the ASD relay, and should do be suitable to trigger your new fuel pump relay (connect to pin# 85, pin# 86 to ign switched 12V, pin# 30 to +on Batt etc, and pin#87 to the + side of the pump), use 12 gauge or better wire to minimize voltage drop...

Mike

I wasnt even sure which relay is the asd one, but figured I'd have to do something like this, see what one gets power for the same amount of time as the fp. I was planning on using 10g wire, thanks for the input.

[shackwrrr]

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e357/shackwrrr/89daytona.gif

this should help

[Reaper1]

I have a few ideas running around in my head how to accomplish this, but I wan to know how people are eliminating the factory connector at the pump. I figure what's the point in running nice size wire all the way back there just so you have to run it through that crappy connector! There HAS to be a better way! :nod: :amen:

[RoadWarrior222]

Yup, you could ignore the factory wiring there, then put a couple of copper spikes on the top of the tank, and a couple of copper balls on the pump itself, use a step up DC-DC convertor and deliver power as lightning discharge through the fuel... oh and any air and fuel vapor that happened to be in the tank... but how cool would that be?

[Aries_Turbo]

I have a few ideas running around in my head how to accomplish this, but I wan to know how people are eliminating the factory connector at the pump. I figure what's the point in running nice size wire all the way back there just so you have to run it through that crappy connector! There HAS to be a better way! :nod: :amen:

the connector isnt much of an issue as is the long runs of relatively small wire.

the connector and its short leads arent going to drop much voltage at all.

Brian

[RoadWarrior222]

^^^ that's true.

I was facetiously trying to suggest, that there's probably plenty of dangerous ways of doing it, such that leaving the proven safe factory way alone is probably the best option.

But even the connector there will be somewhat "uprated" a few percent with heavier gauge wire right up to it, to sink heat into.

[Reaper1]

I get what you guys are saying, and it certainly shouldn't be attmepted in some half-----ed manner as the results could be....um....hazardous. I just figured that there are many people out there that have gone to great lengths to run nice wire to the pump and have a good mump and the right size fuel line, ect. That connector just seems to be the next thing in line for a good upgrade. :shrugs:

[Aries_Turbo]

I get what you guys are saying, and it certainly shouldn't be attmepted in some half-----ed manner as the results could be....um....hazardous. I just figured that there are many people out there that have gone to great lengths to run nice wire to the pump and have a good mump and the right size fuel line, ect. That connector just seems to be the next thing in line for a good upgrade. :shrugs:

i agree that if you are doing everything, the connector could be considered.

if i was going to the trouble of doing the connector, id want to cut everything out of the plate, weld a flat piece of steel over the entire thing and start fresh.

new larger fuel line bulkhead, 10 ga electrical bulkhead, etc.

Brian

[wallace]

I have a few ideas running around in my head how to accomplish this, but I wan to know how people are eliminating the factory connector at the pump. I figure what's the point in running nice size wire all the way back there just so you have to run it through that crappy connector! There HAS to be a better way! :nod: :amen:

That connector was an intermittent problem on my van it would just shut off going down the road. Finally found it by shaking the wiring. I ran new 12 ga wires to the plug location. I used the existing 12v and ground to trigger a relay and the new wires ran the pump.

[Reaper1]

But how did you get rid of the actual connector on the tank? Did you use something better?

[wallace]

No I didn't have a problem with that connector it was the one on the driver's side frame near the tank that I had the issue with. When I pulled the connector apart you could actually see where it had been arcing. For the one on the pump assembly you could just gut the connector and run the wires out straight to the relay and put silicone over it I would think. My van was a 90' so the newer style pump are the older ones much different?

[Reaper1]

Not between what you had and what I have. The '91's are different though. I've still got the triangular rubber connector on the pump with the little pins that stick out.

The '91-up have basically a weatherpack connector on it.

[Ondonti]

the connector isnt much of an issue as is the long runs of relatively small wire.

the connector and its short leads arent going to drop much voltage at all.

Brian

I did uncrimp the factory connector pins and put 10 gauge wire onto them. I didnt use the outside connector, just pushed each pin into the socket.
No reason to bother on the pump side for the reasons you said. I grounded the 10 gauge ground wire a bout a foot or 2 away from the pump in a place that seemed convenient.

The real problem on oem setups is that not only is the wire gauge small and long, its old.
If you rewire, you should go the extra length and hotwire it to the battery with another relay.

[marc]

The red wire (14ga) at the ADS relay is the constant hot from the battery. Personally, It sounds like you are trying to reinvent to wheel. The stock wiring is adequate to run most fuel pumps. But that's just my 2 cents.
I did just that, only the relay powers the injectors as well. BUT I adapted a power disturbution box out of a 93 Neon to the car. It's wired so the ASD relay controls the fuel pump / injectors relay as well as another relay for the coil and O2 sensor. I also ran an overlay wire to the pump.

A disturbution box is a great mod!

[22shelby]

ok i read thru this, and alot of great points here, however, sounds to me he wants a simple way to run a 10 awg wire to the pump.....

why not just have the factory fp wires, the ones that run to the back, trigger your added relay???

run ur 10awg wire thru a continuous duty solenoid to the pump and have the 2 oe wire turn the solenoid on or off.......

make sure to fuse your power wire and protect it on the way back...

am i way off base here??? like was mentioned, your pump need to shut off for a split sec for start up, well the relay would trigger on and off, at the same rate...

[wallace]

Not off base, that was what I suggested he do as well. Just leave the factory wiring there to trigger a relay and run new wires to actually run the pump. Check the voltage drop on BOTH + and - wires at the pump connector you will be surprised how bad it may be. The negative on my van was pretty bad.


ok i read thru this, and alot of great points here, however, sounds to me he wants a simple way to run a 10 awg wire to the pump.....

why not just have the factory fp wires, the ones that run to the back, trigger your added relay???

run ur 10awg wire thru a continuous duty solenoid to the pump and have the 2 oe wire turn the solenoid on or off.......

make sure to fuse your power wire and protect it on the way back...

am i way off base here??? like was mentioned, your pump need to shut off for a split sec for start up, well the relay would trigger on and off, at the same rate...

[1966 dart wagon]

Not off base, that was what I suggested he do as well. Just leave the factory wiring there to trigger a relay and run new wires to actually run the pump. Check the voltage drop on BOTH + and - wires at the pump connector you will be surprised how bad it may be. The negative on my van was pretty bad.

Yep exactly Why I'm doing it, there are threads around on how bad some voltage drop is and how it effects the fuel flow.

Found the wire now to just get to work!

[Stinkbox]

I did this acouple years ago after seeing it work pretty good on dsm's. I used the exisitng wires that go to the fuel pump and ran them to a relay instead to turn it off and on like you guys said. It was alittle easier for me since my battery is in the spare tire well though.

[Ondonti]

You can gain an easy 10% or more fuel flow going to 14v on most pumps.

[RoadWarrior222]

Or run a 2nd alt, hotwire it for 18V and run your ignition coil and fuel pump off it :eyebrows:

[Aries_Turbo]

as long as your ignition drivers/coil/pump can handle 18v for a long period of time.

how much would you actually gain with the resistance of another alt dragging on the system.

Brian

[RoadWarrior222]

Meh, details :D .... but if you NEED that much fuel, pump will probably stay fairly cool, then heatsinks on the coil and drivers would probably take care of that. Drag is probably about 3-5HP... trying to brain if it's possible with an older style alt with external regulator etc.. think that still needs to pull the feedback low to control system voltage though...

Just for the coil though, there's probably a way to do it with a car notebook adapter to get 18V to it, and higher output, but at ~50kV output you'll need some durned good plug wires...

[TopDollar69]

Jack, have you tried this modification to the bypass valve? Since we both know Walbro doesn't honor their warranties anyways, just as well give it a try.

http://www.driven2modify.com/showpost.php?p=305115&postcount=1

[wallace]

Are you guys sure you're using a genuine Walbro pump? I run three of these on my drag car with e85 and zero issues, this car sits in my garage for weeks at a time. I had one in the 90' minivan for 2+ years with no issues. what exactly is it that fails on the pump?

[RoadWarrior222]

I think the older ones are more solid, the crap has been arriving in the last couple of years.

[marc]

I've been following this post and there are many opinions on this subject as there are posts. I have a Walbro fuel pump in my car too and it's been a while, but I did measure the amperage draw and it wasn't that much; maybe 3 amps.

To me, 10 gauge wiring, constant duty solenoid directly to the battery seems like overkill. I use a Bosch relay for my ADS and it's rated at 30 amps. Maybe a good solution would be to solder a 14 gauge wire to the dark blue wire already going to the ADS and run that wire straight back to the fuel pump under the car. On the feed side to the relay (the red wire) can go directly to the alternator battery terminal. (I never liked connecting stuff directly to the battery for corrosion reasons) And don't forget to use a fuse inline as close to the alternator.

[wallace]

Yeah the amp draw would be low at idle/low load but when the boost comes on and the load goes up the amp draw will definitely increase. When I did the wire mod on the van you could hear the pump sound change. I think Walbro has a current vs. flow chart on their website.

[turboshad]

I was only able to muster 60psi from my pump until I did a re-wire. I ran 10Ga and used the stock wires to trigger a relay in the rear as has been mentioned. It solved my FP issues quite nicely. :D

[TopDollar69]

I ordered the TRE-340 pump today that was listed to fit a 97 Ford Mustang GT. After looking over the specs on the Delphi version of the ford pump vs the mopar pump they appear to be almost exactly the same so this should be a bolt in replacement. I will take pictures and let you know how the install goes. The airtex pump that I installed in my wagon about a month ago will barely run at 12.3V, but works fine when the car is running and the alternator is bumping the voltage to 14.3V.

[wallace]

I looked the TRE pump up to see what it was and who sold it. I could not find any performance information on the pump, it sounds like a Chinese knockoff of the Walbro pump though. Not knocking the TRE product just based on the price and the information provided that's what it looks like to me. I also looked to find out about Walbro pump issues and I found this link: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/263358-walbro-fuel-pump-update.html
Seems they had an issue in 2008 that was corrected and it was related to a specific pump and not all of thier product line. Reading the link it seems Walbro went out of their way to find and correct the issue. Can the folks who had problems with their Walbro explain what it was that failed or the symptoms surrounding the problem? Was the pump the same model number as listed in the link (F20000169)? I'm really interested to know as I've got two cars that are getting/needing a pump in the course of upgrade/resto.

Edit: I found the TRE pump data...all I can say is you should compare it to the Walbro data there is a big difference in the flow. Compare the charts starting at the base pressure we use (55 psi).

[TopDollar69]

I'm not worried, this is a stock T1 car. I'm more concerned with the thing actually making more than 20 psi of pressure at 12.3V like my current airtex pump.

[csomni]

wallace, where did you find the TRE pump data. id like to take a look at it. i bought two pumps from tre perfomance. a tre 200 and a tre 240. the 200 was a inline for my t1 omni. and they could not come up with a banjo fitting so i could use it. they wanted me to take the end off and use a fitting they have thus getting rid of the check valve. and on the 240 they told me it would fit my app. 86 turbo z intank. only one problem no check valve. they told me to go to a parts store and buy a inline check valve. after a few calls and emails they said they would vsend me a 340 which is suppose to have a built in check valve. havent got the pump yet. this has gone on for a month. ill nevere buy a nother pump from them again. all the time wasted the cars should be up and running.

[Stinkbox]

I've been running my walbro for about 7 years or so with no problems.

[wallace]

TRE pump "curve" is here at the very bottom of the page: http://www.treperformance.com/FuelPumps/TRE255FuelPumps.html#340

Here is the link to the Walbro: http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/fpspecs.html
go to the bottom of the page they list pump curves for each of theirs.

When you compare them (I used the 255 LPH high pressure walbro graph) notice that the TRE curve is a straight line and not a curve..then look at the Walbro curve the flow drops off significantly after the pressure goes over 80 psi. The Walbro flows 10 gph more. I'll spend the extra and take my "chances" with the Walbro.

[1966 dart wagon]

Thanks for getting the TRE340 Ben, I knew it looked dam near exactly like the walbro replacement. Let us know what you find out!

[1966 dart wagon]

Jack, have you tried this modification to the bypass valve? Since we both know Walbro doesn't honor their warranties anyways, just as well give it a try.

http://www.driven2modify.com/showpost.php?p=305115&postcount=1

dang looks like I have some research and alot of reading to do!

Thanks for all the info guys, but I was thinking shouldnt the tre vs walbro arguement be in my thread saying "pumps other then walbro" oh well here works too!

[1966 dart wagon]

I had some time to read this thread along with the "pump other then walbro thread' Thanks to anyone who imput info.

I'm not sure what order I'll do stuff in, probably rewire my pump first, since I'm going to do it anyways, then try the walbro pump mod that topdollar posted and see how it goes from there.

Although with it getting cold out and not having alot free time I'm not sure I'll get around to this before winter, but I am a pretty spur of the moment guy so maybe. Plus I have almost a full tank of fuel now its kind of a pain to drain it now, oh well we'll see, I'll keep everyone posted on what I end up coming up with.

[RoadWarrior222]

Plus I have almost a full tank of fuel now its kind of a pain to drain it now, oh well we'll see, I'll keep everyone posted on what I end up coming up with.

Oh some guy the other day gave me a good tip for that.... just drop it on a trouble light and burn it off... :drum: ;) :eyebrows: :bolt:

[1966 dart wagon]

Oh some guy the other day gave me a good tip for that.... just drop it on a trouble light and burn it off... :drum: ;) :eyebrows: :bolt:

haha, very funny!

been there done that, the problem is it ruins your car, any tips for that?:lol:

for some reason I want to become a supporting member just to put that in my sig


Well just got back from the parts store, I have 10g wire 20ft of black and red, unfotruanlly I am going to have to have a splice somewhere since I could only get it in 10ft sections oh well, waterproof heatshrink it is, which is overkill but oh well. Hopefully this will motivate me tomorrow to get into gear and wire this beast up!

[Reaper1]

For the people doing the relay mod, what relays are you guys using? I personally would reach for a high current "Bosch" square one like you find on a lot of the mid-90's Chryslers, but I didn't koe if people found something better, or more sturdy, ect?

[wallace]

I use the Bosch 30 amp with the little plastic mounting tab at the top of it. I buy them from Waytek wire since the local NAPA store rapes you at $20 a pop for them. You can get a nice pre-formed connector with pigtails to go along with it as well. Do not use junkyard relays for the fuel pump..been there done that and I've had 2 fail on me.

[RoadWarrior222]

If you wanna go totally overbuilt you could get one of those Ford starter solenoid relays that look something like this..
http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Ford/Ranger/Motorcraft/Starter_Solenoid/1987/MISW1533C.html
or this
http://www.johnsmustang.com/Catalog-713.html

and are common in harbor freight type stores and farm hardware stores as tractor and equipment parts. I don't think there's any of them rated less than 80A and usually 100-120A

Oldskool ford guys probably have a couple kicking round somewhere.

[Aries_Turbo]

there are some JY ones that are ok. older chevy cavaliers (i think) have custom bosch relays that have a weatherpack connector. the relay itself has a plastic "skirt" on the bottom and the connector is sealed and gasketed so that when connected, the seal fits tight in the "skirt" and they dont corrode and fail like the open air ones.

i just looked and waytek carries these

connector

http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/75610/SEALED%20CONNECTOR%2012%22%20LEADS/

relay

http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/75601/SKIRTED%20MINI%20RELAY%20SPDT/

Brian

[1966 dart wagon]

there are some JY ones that are ok. older chevy cavaliers (i think) have custom bosch relays that have a weatherpack connector. the relay itself has a plastic "skirt" on the bottom and the connector is sealed and gasketed so that when connected, the seal fits tight in the "skirt" and they dont corrode and fail like the open air ones.

i just looked and waytek carries these

connector

http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/75610/SEALED%20CONNECTOR%2012%22%20LEADS/

relay

http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/75601/SKIRTED%20MINI%20RELAY%20SPDT/

Brian

That looks like a nice way to go. I was going to do this yesterday but decided to rewire my relays for my headlights and finally mount the relays to a bracket and make it somewhat hidden rather then just laying next to the ASD relay and stuff, I have the wires ran for my fuel pump and all I have to do is hookup a relay. Im using the genaric relay from a parts store for 30a, I was thinking of getting the connector used for the relays but they have tiny wire on them and I want it to use straight 10g wire, maybe I'll go take a look at them once again cause the fuel pump relay will be right next to the smec and it would be nice to have it look decent, rather then a bunch of open termianls exposed, This is what I did for my headlight ones but I was suggested to Wrap the whole thing in electrical tape to protect the terminals and make sure they are held on. Next thing also is to rewire my headlights on my dakota, they only get 11v while running. And priming my fuel pump it only got 11.6v

here is the one I was talking about, its available at a local parts store:
http://www.picowiring.com/pdf/Cat-19.pdf

[Aries_Turbo]

i wonder how much current that solenoid coil pulls. one the ones that i looked up, the resistance of the coil that drives the solenoid was fairly low so it would be pulling more current than a relay. also, i dont think the ford solenoids are rated for continuous use. waytek has some solenoids but i would just use a relay anyway.

heres a relay that will do 100a. thats overkill enough :) the coil on this relay is rated at 46 ohms. it will pull around 1/4-1/3Amp when energized.

http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/75551/POWER%20RELAY%2012V%20SPST%20100%20AMP/

Brian

[Aries_Turbo]

I was thinking of getting the connector used for the relays but they have tiny wire on them and I want it to use straight 10g wire

the waytek sealed one has 12ga wire. keep the wire length short and immediately crimp and solder and heatshrink it to your 10ga wire and you wont get voltage drop from the smaller wire and it will still look good.

Brian

[RoadWarrior222]

i wonder how much current that solenoid coil pulls. one the ones that i looked up, the resistance of the coil that drives the solenoid was fairly low so it would be pulling more current than a relay. also, i dont think the ford solenoids are rated for continuous use. waytek has some solenoids but i would just use a relay anyway.

Good point, guess they might heat up a bit after a few minutes.

[Aries_Turbo]

yeah the coil would heat up. definitely not the contacts if you are only using them to drive a fuel pump.

waytek had some continuous use solenoids but they only looked to be 85a. the relay i posted is rated for 100a from what waytek says though when looking up the part number on tycoelectronics site (they make that relay) it seems to say 75a.

either way, totally overkill. :)

Brian

[csomni]

got my tre 340 the other day. guess what no wire harnness. now i have to spend more time trying to find one. have any of you had this prob or is it just me. and as for as wiring my inline in, im going to find a fuel pump relay , wire the coil side into the asd and the pump wired into the contacts of the relay on a fused circuit. bom bam done.

[1966 dart wagon]

Did you contact TRE on that issue??

If you cant get one from them cant you just use general spade connectors?

[csomni]

you can, you have to heat shrink them. the post are pretty close together . plus they wont be locked into place. the kit is suppose to have it . they said they had this prob before and will send me one if i cant find it locally . which i cant. so it has to sit till wed or so.

[1966 dart wagon]

Finally got this done today, made a nice braket for the relay and fuse looks nice. Didnt solve my fueling problem, figured it really wouldnt but at least now its done! I'll be doing a mod to my walbro and reinstalling it next.

[1966 dart wagon]

it never rains it pours!

Reintalled my modded walbro tonight to have another issue. I have to wiggle the fuel pump connector for it to make contact and power the fuel pump, I let go of the connector and no power.....SOB!

[RoadWarrior222]

Some connectors you can "fluff up" with a jewellers screwdriver by prying up the springy parts.... and scrape off any green crap of course.

[TopDollar69]

You should be able to use a pick or small flat blade screw driver to tighten the brass connectors in the fuel pump plug. I recieved my TRE340 pump, and it is also missing the connector pigtail. I emailed them tonight so hopefully they get back to me ASAP.

[TopDollar69]

They contacted me through ebay, and said that they will be shipping me a pigtail today.

[1966 dart wagon]

They contacted me through ebay, and said that they will be shipping me a pigtail today.

Nice, Now that you guys mentinoed to try cleaning the connectors I may try that, but I had to re soder the wires from the fp to the sending unit, So that may be the issue we'll see. Hell I'll just go out now and give it a shot.

Alright its alive, ran fine down the road anyways, still lean but that could be other issues.

[1966 dart wagon]

Its been a while and figured I'd update.

Car was parked for the winter then fired up in spring time, ended up doing some FP testing and went to remove the vac line from my AFPR to notice when the air sucked on the nipple of the AFPR fuel got somewhat sucked out and dripped onto my intake, did this a couple times so it must have had a pinhole in it, not enough to make it leak out quite a bit. I swapped on a used stock FPR and no issues as of now. well other then my fuel pump pig tail has gotten worn out, after driving back from Sioux City tonight the car shut down twice, noticed no fp priming but could hear the ASD relay triggering it, went back and wiggled the wires and boom fired right up.