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View Full Version : Neon ACR SRT4 build (aka SPYDACR)



Mopar318
07-29-2010, 09:35 AM
Well after searching for rust free TM's I gave up. My GF's mom couldnt handle her neon any more and it wasnt selling so I picked it up for a good price.:)

Best part is...this thing is CLEAN, and RUST FREE! I mean, I swear its from california there isnt a spot of rust on it. Check out the underbody pictures. Yes G body owners, no rust on the rockers?:lol:

The interior is also very clean updated with newer seats, and a fold down back seat. (Great for hauling things) The only thing Im going to do to the interior is make a plush carpet for it, and a new headliner....Ok maybe leather seats. Not SRT4 seats though, I cant fit in them.

The car already has a 2.4 swap done by the previous owner, and he used the custom made brackets for the power steering pump. Im going to throw in some SRT slugs, put on the srt mani/turbo, Intake manifold, throttle body, and design all my charge pipes and intercooler. Megasquirt will be used for the ECU

This will be a daily driver so I plan on keeping it simple.

I nicknamed it the neon spyder because a spider builds a web on it within hours everytime you clean a web off. Wierd..... Plates will ready "SPYDACR"

turbokid
07-29-2010, 09:56 AM
looks pretty clean

ShelGame
07-29-2010, 10:05 AM
So, your GF's mom was driving a Neon with ACR Konis and a 2.4 with a header? What a great mom...

Nice car. Dibs on the header when you go turbo...

omni_840
07-29-2010, 10:24 AM
So, your GF's mom was driving a Neon with ACR Konis and a 2.4 with a header? What a great mom...

I was thinking the same thing!

Cool project:thumb:

Mopar318
07-29-2010, 10:24 AM
So, your GF's mom was driving a Neon with ACR Konis and a 2.4 with a header? What a great mom...

Nice car. Dibs on the header when you go turbo...

Yup, but everything was breaking and I dont have to time fix cars that arent mine. So now it is mine!

Make an offer on the header. The car is not on the road Ive already started taking something apart. Also have the "iceman" cold air intake for sale.

Thanks to Wes for the koni adjuster, gotta get that call out in for him. He gave it to me since he bought it for his GLHS and it didnt fit:thumb:

cobra2411
07-29-2010, 10:32 AM
When I was in limbo about a car and couldn't find what I was looking for I thought about doing a neon. It was a 95 or 98 or something like that, 2 door, 5spd, clean with icy cold a/c for $900. Then I ran into a 20-something who started talking about his neon and all the trouble he got into with it, etc... Typical ricer behavior... I just rolled my eyes and gave up on the neon and kept looking for a Shadow ES 5spd...

Good luck, looks like a good find.

turbokid
07-29-2010, 11:29 AM
Well hes most the way there getting rid of that 2.0 and it having a 5 speed

sy2206
07-29-2010, 01:05 PM
Thanks to Wes for the koni adjuster, gotta get that call out in for him. He gave it to me since he bought it for his GLHS and it didnt fit:thumb:

Yes, the ACR and GLHS Koni knobs are different. I have some of both you or him need anymore.

Have fun with the ACR, those are sweet cars! My dad and I just sold our 99 ACR Coupe. I'm going to miss that car...

Mopar318
07-30-2010, 01:11 AM
Already got a MSII in the works in trade for a turbo I have. Also took out the mopar pcm and sold it for 200, and the icman should sell for about 150 maybe a little less. Thats enough for the turbofold and a intake. Looks like Ill only have a few hundred bucks in this car.:thumb:

shackwrrr
07-31-2010, 02:39 AM
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e357/shackwrrr/th_msv3.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/albums/e357/shackwrrr/?action=view&current=msv3.jpg)

MSII Oh yea I put launch control on the board too *bang*bang*

DodgeZ
07-31-2010, 01:56 PM
I have an SRT4 motor for sale

Mopar318
07-31-2010, 02:17 PM
Dont need a motor. Already have a N/A 2.4 that Ill be running with the stock srt rod/pistons. Pretty much a brand new engine for $600 worth of parts and labor. I may be using a newer casting head so that I can use the SRT intake but not sure yet.

Mopar318
08-04-2010, 07:40 AM
Gutted the factory engine harness today. All I have left is the speed sensor, alternator noise suppressor, alternator charge wire starter, and solenoid wires. I depinned all the connectors from the main one (Not just cut them)

Mopar318
08-04-2010, 08:38 PM
Turbo is in for test fitting. With a little adjustment of the adjusting rod in the back if has clearance, altough Im gonna do a little fire wall massaging, since the trubine housing almost touches, and the brake lines are in the way.

Im hoping for around 250whp in this using the stock turbo and relative low boost. around 14 psi. Im buidling a intake manifold using a half round plenum from ross, and gonna get a neon tb flange from Top fuel Bender if he ever returns my pm.:thumb:

Should be enough to push this thing down the track into the 13's altough Im building it for an every day car really. Gonna keep the A/C.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0087.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0088.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0086.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0089.jpg

jl93sundance
08-04-2010, 09:55 PM
looking good:thumb:. don't know if you'll be at 250whp at only 14 psi though...and with traction you should be in the 12's if you meet your hp goal.

Mopar318
08-04-2010, 09:57 PM
looking good:thumb:. don't know if you'll be at 250whp at only 14 psi though...and with traction you should be in the 12's if you meet your hp goal.

Dont srt's run 14psi stock? I will also have a better flowing exhaust, stage 2 injectors, large plenum intake mani, and the megasquirt so I can tune:thumb:

jl93sundance
08-04-2010, 10:03 PM
Dont srt's run 14psi stock? I will also have a better flowing exhaust, stage 2 injectors, large plenum intake mani, and the megasquirt so I can tune:thumb:

I think somewhere around there... you might be just a little under 250 is my guess but tuning could open it up hp wise...i'd shoot for 15-17psi no reason not to;).

jl93sundance
08-04-2010, 10:03 PM
maybe I missed it, but what trans/clutch are you going to be using?

86seeS
08-04-2010, 10:16 PM
nice knob man! i should have traded my glh omni for that car when i had the chance thats crazy that you ended up with it. i get to drive it when i drop off my seats right?

Mopar318
08-04-2010, 10:32 PM
maybe I missed it, but what trans/clutch are you going to be using?

I think im going to stick with the 3.94 trans thats in it now. If its too much (like people have told me it will be) then I can swap in the other trans. Clutch Im not sure about yet. I have a new reman clutch sitting on my shelf but Im not sure how good the aftermarkets are, If the stock srt4 clutch works I might get a factory from the dealer.

Mopar318
08-04-2010, 10:33 PM
nice knob man! i should have traded my glh omni for that car when i had the chance thats crazy that you ended up with it. i get to drive it when i drop off my seats right?

Yeah, Ill let you sit in it and make noises like Vroom, vraa vraa, PSHHHH! Im sure it wont be done by then and with all you guys bringing me seats it just get delayed.! ahah

Mopar318
08-05-2010, 10:03 PM
Got ahold of some mopar Stage 2 injectors. Should be able to run the stock fuel system with these.

Mopar318
08-12-2010, 07:49 PM
Got my ecu back from symtech today and hooked it up to the tuning software. Getting if figured out now. Got dual coil drivers installed to run with the stock neon ignition system.

Sgt Craig
08-12-2010, 08:28 PM
I think im going to stick with the 3.94 trans thats in it now. If its too much (like people have told me it will be) then I can swap in the other trans. Clutch Im not sure about yet. I have a new reman clutch sitting on my shelf but Im not sure how good the aftermarkets are, If the stock srt4 clutch works I might get a factory from the dealer.

Nice build! For clutch,The SRT clutch wont work with the 1st Gen trans without machining,Jeff Ball used to sell them already machined awhile ago but has stopped.Clutchmasters Stage 3 or 4 would be fine with room to grow on.On a budget PT N/A Clutch.I dont know if the Turbo PT Clutch would work or not.

moparman76_69
08-12-2010, 10:19 PM
T
Im hoping for around 250whp in this using the stock turbo and relative low boost. around 14 psi.


looking good:thumb:. don't know if you'll be at 250whp at only 14 psi though...and with traction you should be in the 12's if you meet your hp goal.


Dont srt's run 14psi stock? I will also have a better flowing exhaust, stage 2 injectors, large plenum intake mani, and the megasquirt so I can tune:thumb:


I think somewhere around there... you might be just a little under 250 is my guess but tuning could open it up hp wise...i'd shoot for 15-17psi no reason not to;).

Aren't SRT-4s at 240 stock? They were rated 215 but that was a conservative number.

http://www.allpar.com/neon/neon-srt-4.html

Aries_Turbo
08-12-2010, 10:47 PM
a good clutch that will hold alot of power is made from a few different parts. 97 audi quattro pressure plate with some minor drilling for the dowel pins and bolt holes, 95 neon non-modular flywheel and a spirit r/t clutch disc or aftermarket equivalent. you have to machine the step height of the neon flywheel lower but im not 100% sure on the value. its detailed out on neons.org.

with a 6puck and that plate, some guys are putting down close to 600whp. not bad for some easy to get, cheap parts.

Brian

Mopar318
08-13-2010, 06:53 AM
Nice build! For clutch,The SRT clutch wont work with the 1st Gen trans without machining,Jeff Ball used to sell them already machined awhile ago but has stopped.Clutchmasters Stage 3 or 4 would be fine with room to grow on.On a budget PT N/A Clutch.I dont know if the Turbo PT Clutch would work or not.

I saw some for sale still on neons.org. They have machined flywheels. I try to get all that figured out when the engine and tranny are out. Im still not sure if I wanna pull the engine yet or mock up some stuff first.

Mopar318
08-13-2010, 06:11 PM
Neons make a good vice. Clamped on the manifold to cut it in half. Put tape inbetween the mani and head.:thumb:

Reaper1
08-13-2010, 07:19 PM
Cool project!

shackwrrr
08-13-2010, 11:54 PM
Good to see that MS will be put to good use. I may have to come out and help now that my car is running. I like wiring things and Im good at soldering.

Mopar318
08-14-2010, 07:23 AM
Yeah you can come out and help and hangout. I was building alarms and stuff with kits when I was 8 years old since my dad is a electrical engineer so Im pretty good at wiring/soldering myself but two heads are better than one.:thumb:

The things Im confused on is the IAC control. Getting that figured out should be the hardest I think and that seems to be the bulk of problems for most megasquirt users.

sy2206
08-14-2010, 11:48 AM
Got ahold of some mopar Stage 2 injectors. Should be able to run the stock fuel system with these.

Nope. SRT injectors are a different length then Neon injectors,so they will not fit properly inbetween the fuel rail and intake manifold.

sy2206
08-14-2010, 11:49 AM
Aren't SRT-4s at 240 stock? They were rated 215 but that was a conservative number.

My 04 SRT4 w/ 700 miles on it on the dyno made 224hp/230tq to the wheels.

Mopar318
08-14-2010, 12:26 PM
Nope. SRT injectors are a different length then Neon injectors,so they will not fit properly inbetween the fuel rail and intake manifold.

Nothing a little chop/fab wont fix.

sy2206
08-14-2010, 12:41 PM
Nothing a little chop/fab wont fix.

Yes, they can be made to work. I ran SRT injectors on my turbo'd 2.4 1st gen ACR also. But I'm just saying, they don't "bolt-in".

Mopar318
08-15-2010, 04:01 AM
Yes, they can be made to work. I ran SRT injectors on my turbo'd 2.4 1st gen ACR also. But I'm just saying, they don't "bolt-in".

Yeah, they are about 3/4" shorter. Im going to cut the bracket out and reweld it.

shackwrrr
08-15-2010, 11:09 AM
had a friend that had srt injectors in his 1gn and I think he just bent the rail brackets. but welding should be a lot better.

sy2206
08-15-2010, 01:48 PM
Yeah, it's closer to a 1/2" difference. If I remember right, it was like .490". The correct way to modify that to make em fit right is to machine down the bosses on the intake manifold, where the fuel rail sits(and bolts down). You can mill those down, and then it'll bolt right in, with the stock hardware, and the SRT injectors fit right in.

Mopar318
08-22-2010, 10:46 AM
Orderd the intake plenum. Calculated the volume at about 3.6 liters. not including the pipe to the throttle body flange.

Mopar318
08-22-2010, 11:17 AM
Yeah, it's closer to a 1/2" difference. If I remember right, it was like .490". The correct way to modify that to make em fit right is to machine down the bosses on the intake manifold, where the fuel rail sits(and bolts down). You can mill those down, and then it'll bolt right in, with the stock hardware, and the SRT injectors fit right in.

Measured it to about the same. .470" measuring from the flange of the O rings. Not tip to tip of the injector. I think your right in maching down the manifold will be the best and easy way.

sy2206
08-22-2010, 07:36 PM
Measured it to about the same. .470" measuring from the flange of the O rings. Not tip to tip of the injector. I think your right in maching down the manifold will be the best and easy way.

Yup, exactly! The tip-to-tip measurement isn't whats critical, it's the flange to flange for the o-rings. Yeah, you just machine those two bosses down the .470" and you're good to go. And if you ever want to put stock intectors back in it, or some other aftermarket injectors that are the same length as the OEM 1st gen oness, you can just machine a couple spacers that are .470" long and bolt them in there. That'll relocated the fuel rail back to it's original location. Simple and easy, can't go wrong....

Mopar318
08-26-2010, 07:37 AM
For anybody considering building their own manifold go to ross machine racing. Got my plenum in and its awsome. 1/4" thick all the way around and the end plates are 1/4" thick as well. No I get to fry my hands in order to put enough heat into it to weld it.

Mopar318
09-01-2010, 12:05 AM
Engine is pulled. Also got all the parts to make my intake.

So far I have:

SRT4 turbo/manifold with all the lines
Intake plenum and throttle body flange
megasquirt with wiring
2.4 engine.
SRT stage 2 injectors

Im hoping I can use the factory srt rods/pistons. Ill find out when I get the head off and measure/inspect the cylinders.

86seeS
09-01-2010, 12:24 AM
did the GF help pull the motor or just supervise like mine hahaha

Mopar318
09-04-2010, 12:52 AM
She was helping actually. Then she kept getting scared and doing the "scared" noises whenever I would let the jack down some and it would make a noise.. I hate that so I told her to go away.

Mopar318
09-04-2010, 12:53 AM
Good news!

I got the engine apart and measured the bores. I got 3.444 for the bore measurments. All the cylinder walls have factory cross hatch marks. I believe factory spec is 3.440 but I could even be a bit off since Im using a telescoping gauged. Ill see what the machine shop says and if I can use the SRT rods/pistons.

Mopar318
09-11-2010, 12:42 PM
anybody know of a machine shop around the ft wayne/indianapolis area that has done alot of mopar 4 cylinders. I want a shop that will know what Im talking about when I tell them I want to run the factory srt4 rods/pistons.

Mopar318
09-20-2010, 11:05 PM
Not getting much work done due to school...but I got the MS mounted and harness ran through the fire wall

Aries_Turbo
09-21-2010, 10:45 AM
cool.

one thing you might want to think about.

my friend has a 420a powered eclipse with a t2 turbo on it running megasquirt. when he went to run ignition control, he had horrible sync loss issues. what it turned out to be was that he needed to run the power and ground that powers the injector driver/flyback section of the board, to a separate power connection in the engine bay (like for the fuel pump relay) rather than allow the flyback section to get its power from the same feed that powers the microprocessor and the other sensor signals. reasoning? the injector drivers create alot of electrical noise as they create a magnetic field in the injector coil and then have to allow that magnetic field to collapse and be absorbed by the flyback circuit as the injector switches off.

if you go to start the car later, and then have it idle ok but when you rev it up you get sync loss and sync loss codes, this is most likely the reason.

Brian

Mopar318
10-06-2010, 12:02 AM
cool.

one thing you might want to think about.

my friend has a 420a powered eclipse with a t2 turbo on it running megasquirt. when he went to run ignition control, he had horrible sync loss issues. what it turned out to be was that he needed to run the power and ground that powers the injector driver/flyback section of the board, to a separate power connection in the engine bay (like for the fuel pump relay) rather than allow the flyback section to get its power from the same feed that powers the microprocessor and the other sensor signals. reasoning? the injector drivers create alot of electrical noise as they create a magnetic field in the injector coil and then have to allow that magnetic field to collapse and be absorbed by the flyback circuit as the injector switches off.

if you go to start the car later, and then have it idle ok but when you rev it up you get sync loss and sync loss codes, this is most likely the reason.

Brian

Yes, there are issues with that. The same with the tach signal. I will be running the injectors powers from the power relay board. Only the grounds will be controlled by the MS. I will be running as many sensors as I can from seperate power sources.

I know have an SRT4 engine, and it uses a 2 wire IAC, so it should be easier to contro,

Mopar318
10-08-2010, 07:19 PM
Got some pictures of the SRT4 engine I picked up

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0142.jpg

Still has factory paint and marking on the block. Thats a good sign.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0143.jpg

I need to figure out how to run without A/C:dunno


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0146.jpg



http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0147.jpg



Srt4 starter on the left. neon on the right. The srt4 starter is smaller and alot lighter.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0149.jpg



http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0150.jpg

Im really impressed by the throttle body. Smoothed out hour glass shape, and a cool little air flow deflector on the tip of the butterfly. Im sure multiple chrysler engineers know more than me, Ill leave it alone.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0151.jpg

Mopar318
10-08-2010, 07:19 PM
Made a template for the engine mount adapater plate. Most people remove this mount and use a N/A adapter kit, or just put a nut on the back side of the hole. Well, I felt the need to properly engineer a piece that would actually equalize the load across the load bearing point designed from the factory. This bracket bolts through the factory SRT4 engine mount, and I will weld on a threaded steel piece on the back side of the bracket that will go inside the hole.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0173.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0174.jpg

Mopar318
10-27-2010, 08:53 AM
Got a clutch today. Its a SPEC stage 2+. I hope its a good clutch because it ripped apart my wallet.

http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Dodge/Neon/1998/Single


Got the intake and valve cover painted with krinkle.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0190.jpg

shackwrrr
10-27-2010, 12:02 PM
Got a clutch today. Its a SPEC stage 2+. I hope its a good clutch because it ripped apart my wallet.

http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Dodge/Neon/1998/Single


Got the intake and valve cover painted with krinkle.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0190.jpg

What is different with the 2+, seems the stage 3 and 4 are cheaper and have a higher capacity.

Mopar318
10-27-2010, 05:58 PM
What is different with the 2+, seems the stage 3 and 4 are cheaper and have a higher capacity.

The stage 2+ uses a hybrid of kevlar and ceramic. and it is a full disc with a sprung hub

I really want a very drivable clutch. When you dip into stage 3 your getting a puck clutch. I actually got it for 460 from a dealer off of ebay.

shackwrrr
10-27-2010, 10:02 PM
Ahh, I understand but I like my 4 puck.

Mopar318
10-30-2010, 03:17 PM
My clutch came in and it looks very nice.

Mopar318
11-06-2010, 11:39 AM
Started on my A/c delete. I found a pulley and insert from a 2.5 v6 Mistu in the chryslers.I just have to drill and tap the hole in the compressor bracket for the larger bolt.

Mopar318
11-06-2010, 03:02 PM
Here are the pictures of the A/C delete I made. I just drilled the existing unused hole in the A/C bracket and tapped it for 10mm 1.50 threads. Then bolted on the 4 rib pulley. Measured for the belt and used a 48 Inch belt

Mopar318
11-10-2010, 12:35 AM
Put in the dual cluster pod. Pretty cool piece! When I got it it was all cracked up. So I repaired it and refinished it.

Mopar318
11-22-2010, 10:32 AM
I made the insert to go into the SRT4 bracket, so that it can be used with the 1st gen factory mount. Much better than a little nut holding it together like I have seen.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0017.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0018.jpg

Also made a little plate so that the standard AIT sensor can be used without drilling/tapping the manifold. I was just going to dill out the hole and tap it but the sensor is too long and bottoms out. This spaces it out so it can be used in the stock location.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0248.jpg

Turbo is on and lines are hooked up. The engine is ready to go in now, Im just waiting on the poly motor mounts to come in.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/DSC_0008.jpg

Mopar318
12-04-2010, 01:30 AM
I welded the insert in today. Preheated the cast, and welded it with my TIG using a nickle alloy rod. The weld actually came out very clean. The castings from the bracket are some pretty good metal.

Mopar318
12-05-2010, 01:11 PM
Ooops, I forgot the pictures.

Mopar318
12-13-2010, 02:15 PM
Im happy to say that the engine is in. Im going to have to lower the front mount about 1/2". The radiator fans are going to have to be changed as well. thats SRT intake is rather large. I think Ill have plenty of room to keep the battery up front.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0054-1.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0053.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0055.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0051.jpg

Turbo224
12-13-2010, 03:57 PM
Cool project. You going to leave the interior stock?

Mopar318
12-13-2010, 04:05 PM
Cool project. You going to leave the interior stock?

My plan for the interior is a set of recaros recovered in the original cloth, and some new carpet.

shackwrrr
12-14-2010, 01:23 AM
My plan for the interior is a set of recaros recovered in the original cloth, and some new carpet.


SQUIGGLE RECAROS!:thumb:

Mopar318
01-05-2011, 07:05 PM
Well, I decided to ditch the mega squirt and go with the full SRT4 computer and wiring. Reason being, I want to be able to drive this thing across the country, and if the MS ever failed I would be pretty screwed if I was far away.

Reaper1
01-06-2011, 12:33 AM
BOOOO!! MS is VERY reliable!! Besides if it fails you can repair it and reflash it!!

shackwrrr
01-06-2011, 01:26 AM
Well, I decided to ditch the mega squirt and go with the full SRT4 computer and wiring. Reason being, I want to be able to drive this thing across the country, and if the MS ever failed I would be pretty screwed if I was far away.

Ill trade ya the turbo back lol.

Mopar318
02-12-2011, 10:20 PM
I have made some progress since today was a little warmer. Got the dash pulled for preparation of installing the SRT dash harness. I took the SRT4 steering column and transferred over everything to the neon steering column. I swapped the cylinder holder so that the connectors would match up with the srt harness.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0002.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0008.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0010.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0011.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0004.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0009.jpg

Mopar318
02-28-2011, 11:39 PM
I have my dash reinstalled with the srt wiring. Waiting for some warmer weather to do some soldering and hit up the yard for some rear harness connectors.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0071-1.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0076-1.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0075.jpg

Mopar318
03-13-2011, 11:01 AM
Im almost ready to start the car. I need to install the exhaust, and find a suitable radiator hose, as well as finish building my battery tray.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0102.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0075.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0115.jpg

The battery im using is a bigcrank etx-20. Its 340 CCA, and measured around 8X3.5 inches.

Dave
03-13-2011, 11:46 AM
Sweet! :thumb:

Mopar318
04-05-2011, 09:06 AM
Picked up some new rims! Also, my 98 now has 58K miles! It actually matches the miles on the engine exact!

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0188.jpg



http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0189.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0192.jpg


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0128.jpg

Turbo224
04-05-2011, 11:12 AM
Looking good! That things looks like it was built that way from the factory!

Mopar318
04-07-2011, 09:53 AM
Thanks! My plan was to make this thing look almost factory. It is more important that is drives like a factory car. Which is why I used all of the harnesses, power steering pump and lines with cooler, and all of the factory solenoids/vacuum lines. I chose the 2nd gen wheels because they still look factory, but resemble the SRT4 wheels sitting in the smaller wheel wells of a 1st gen. I actually had somebody ask me if they were his old wheels, when I told him the tire size he said those cant be it because his were 17's!

Mopar318
05-17-2011, 01:26 AM
Ready to roll almost. Went to start today and Im missing either fuel or spark.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/DSC_0041.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0256.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0261.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0265.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0266.jpg

moparman76_69
05-17-2011, 09:48 PM
What did you do with the MS?

shackwrrr
05-17-2011, 09:52 PM
What did you do with the MS?

+1, I want to see my work make something run.

Mopar318
05-18-2011, 12:00 AM
MS is long gone. Im running full SRT swap. Computer, wiring, cluster, boost solenoids, every single wire in the car!

moparman76_69
05-18-2011, 07:29 AM
I meant did you still have it or did you sell it?

Mopar318
05-19-2011, 11:06 PM
Sold it to a local neon guy. I sent it to Symtech and they modified and tested it to work with the neon ignition system.

---------- Post added at 11:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:05 PM ----------

Car ran and drove today. Being able to just start it up and do full throttle runs with no tuning was nice. It does isntant rolling burouts.

Mopar318
11-30-2011, 01:29 AM
I bought a 2000 MTX with low miles this weekend. Pulled it apart to install diff tabs and it looks very clean inside. Ill get pictures up soon. For the spring I should have the nvt-350 HD with 3.55 FD, along with PT turbo equal length axles, and 11" brakes!

Mopar318
12-07-2011, 12:22 AM
Finally put the car away for the winter. Took out the ACR 3.94 Final drive .81 fifth gear transmission and sold it.

Put poly bushings in the control arms. Factory ball joints are like new. Tie rods were like new too, but the boots were a little dry rotted so I scored some Mopar van tie rods for $10. They measured to be the same as neon ones.

Control arm bushing are simple to press in but not so simple when installing on car. Drivers side lined up fine. Passenger side needed lots of massaging. I bought the entire prothane kit, so I am replacing all of the bushings.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0255.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0254.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0258.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0259-1.jpg

---------- Post added at 11:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:19 PM ----------

I picked up a 2000 Neon MTX 3.55 Final gear. It has very low miles on it. 2000 is the only year with cable clutch and HD trans. I split the case and installed diff pin tabs, gave it an inspection and good cleaning. Looked very nice inside.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0265.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0266.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0271.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0268-1.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0267-1.jpg

---------- Post added at 11:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 PM ----------

Transmission went back in smoothly.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0289.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0291.jpg

Here you can see the equal length jackshaft.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0292.jpg

I cut off the the mount part of this engine/trans bracket. I will be using a lower dog bone attached the the K-frame, and maybe another at the rad support. The old mount is now just acting as a strengthening bracket to hold the trans and engine together.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_0293.jpg

Now I have a 3.55 Final Heavy Duty Transmission, Turbo PT equal length jack-shaft with SRT4 axles, Turbo knuckles and wheel bearings, and 11" front brakes.

cordes
12-07-2011, 12:43 AM
Wow, what an update. I would love to do something like this some day.

I put the same bushing kit on my neon and it was a real doozie for sure. It was quite the struggle for me to get the rear bushing in place on both control arms.

That car will stop on a dime with the 11" brakes for sure. How are you doing the 11" brakes?

Thanks for the update.

Mopar318
12-07-2011, 12:47 AM
I got PT cruiser knuckles and machines them down to fit 1st gen neon struts. Then installed new bearings and hubs. Calipers are Stock PT cruiser units. All of this still fits under the 15" neon wheel with about 1/8" of clearance!

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0005.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0011-1.jpg

Our BridgePort series II CNC machine is a monster, look how small the knuckles look in comparison.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0006.jpg

cordes
12-07-2011, 12:49 AM
I got PT cruiser knuckles and machines them down to fit 1st gen neon struts. Then installed new bearings and hubs. Calipers are Stock PT cruiser units. All of this still fits under the 15" neon wheel with about 1/8" of clearance!

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0005.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0011-1.jpg

Our BridgePort series II CNC machine is a monster, look how small the knuckles look in comparison.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0006.jpg

That's great to know. Thanks for the info.

Mopar318
12-07-2011, 12:52 AM
That's great to know. Thanks for the info.

Your welcome. The PT brake setup has been done by a few Neon people already. I just used information I found from others and went from there. I hope it works out well.

cordes
12-07-2011, 12:54 AM
Your welcome. The PT brake setup has been done by a few Neon people already. I just used information I found from others and went from there. I hope it works out well.

I'm sure it will.

Do the axles have those stupid plastic retainer clip guys in there still? Do you even need those?

Mopar318
12-07-2011, 01:00 AM
I'm sure it will.

Do the axles have those stupid plastic retainer clip guys in there still? Do you even need those?

I'm not sure I know what your talking about. Where are the clips?

Mopar318
12-08-2011, 09:45 AM
Are you talking about the ones that hold the axle into the diff? I think those are metal though.

RumbleFish
12-08-2011, 10:16 PM
Nice car, for a neon anyway...

cordes
12-08-2011, 11:55 PM
Are you talking about the ones that hold the axle into the diff? I think those are metal though.

Yes the ones which hold it in the diff. My car had colored ones which I thought were just a really tough plastic. I didn't inspect them thoroughly though.

Mopar318
12-09-2011, 12:09 AM
Yes the ones which hold it in the diff. My car had colored ones which I thought were just a really tough plastic. I didn't inspect them thoroughly though.

Yes they still have those clips. They are actually pretty important. They keep the axle from coming in/out of the trans.

cordes
12-09-2011, 12:10 AM
Yes they still have those clips. They are actually pretty important. They keep the axle from coming in/out of the trans.

Thanks for the info. I would have thought that they would have kept the design like our cars where nothing is needed to keep them in place.

Mopar318
12-09-2011, 12:34 AM
Thanks for the info. I would have thought that they would have kept the design like our cars where nothing is needed to keep them in place.

I have seen a few people that have got rid of them with the OBX lsd because the splines are not tapered so the axle wont come out, but sometimes bad things happen. I have never had a problem with them, they always pop out with a few taps or some pry bar action.

Now I need to replace the inner boot on the passenger axle. I was trying to get it into the intermediate shaft and caught and ripped the boot in the process.:mad: It was that clip that your talking about that was giving me issue. I had to take out the axle and file the end of the splines at a bevel. After fiddling with it for a few hours I managed to put a small slice in the boot.

---------- Post added at 11:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:31 PM ----------

Come on chrysler...your kidding me right?

Inner boot, manual transaxle, 2.0l, 2.4l, right
00-05
$89.35 $64.86

135sohc
12-09-2011, 02:08 AM
Raybestos professional, precision driveline have listings. Alot less than $65

Mopar318
12-09-2011, 08:25 AM
Raybestos professional, precision driveline have listings. Alot less than $65

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PRE0/7423.oap?year=2005&make=Dodge&model=Neon&vi=1430761&ck=Search_axle+boot_1430761_2061&keyword=axle+boot

Is this brand anygood? I need to see if the axle will come apart easily. I just did axle boots on my volvo two weeks ago so It should not be too bad.

I think it is just crazy how much Chrysler parts are now. My dealer wanted $100 for the silicone drain hose for the SRT4. I laughed in their face and have not been back since.

cordes
12-09-2011, 06:31 PM
I had a very similar problem with my axles while putting them back in. It was a doozy for me to get them pulled due to all the junk I had in the way at the time too. I much prefer our setup.

shackwrrr
12-09-2011, 09:33 PM
Well if you have to take the inner joint apart you can put a spring in there so you can delete the retainer.

Mopar318
12-09-2011, 09:59 PM
I took it apart today it was simple. This is nothing like a regular axle. The inner joint has a female end. The jack shaft has the clip.

Mopar318
12-15-2011, 08:04 PM
Does anybody know where to find a Passenger side Inner boot for a SRT4/Gt cruiser? I got one from oriely but it is for the drivers side and their system does not list them seperate.

Mopar318
01-03-2012, 10:36 PM
So now everything is back together. Now the only hold up is the pads are wrong. I'm going to go with some Hawk pads in the front for more bite anyways. I drilled and tapped the calipers to accept the 1st gen hose and bolt. I hope it seals fine, but if not its only a $10 caliper at the Take-a-part, then I will need to figure out a different hose setup. The Rotors are NOS Mopar PT Cruiser rotors, so very high quality.

Caliper has about 2mm of clearance from wheel.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0318.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0320.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0321.jpg

Here is some comparison shots. New rotor is 1" bigger in diameter and about .2" thicker.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0322.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0323.jpg

cordes
01-03-2012, 10:57 PM
THat's a lot more area to squeeze. Nice work.

Mopar318
02-19-2012, 08:27 PM
Well I got my Hawk HPS pads in. Technafit is making me front brake lines that use neon lines with SRT/PT ends so everything will bolt right up. If I have a caliper fail I just get stock parts. Should have the car back up and driving in a few weeks.