a good reliable ignition coil?

[cs daytona]

who makes a reliable coil that wont crap out at 25 psi. i replaced my pos msd blaster 2 for a $12 masterpro oem coil from o'reillys and ran awesome until about 3 days ago and started to break up again.

is the boost killing the coil? or the coil killing the coil?

thanks in advance!
travis

[Mopar318]

Vibrations and heat kill coils. Where is yours located? I suggest going to a new style coil Im using a MSD unit from my old dakota.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/DSC00672.jpg

[cs daytona]

its in the stock location for 88 on the pass side frame rail. should i consider a heat shield and rubber mounts?

[supercrackerbox]

I would consider swapping to the solid state coil like above. I had the same problem until the Charger straight up died, did the swap, and haven't looked back. However, if you want to keep the oil filled coil for stock sake, then use a Mopar one.

[contraption22]

I don't trust anything but OEM coils. MSD units, especially those solid state units are absolute junk. Not only do they NOT put out as much juice as a stocker, but they have a higher failure rate. This is true for the 91-up thermostat-mounted coils, as well as Neon/SRT-4 applications. They are just junk. If you do not have a stock coil, or cannot find one, do not order a "upgrade" coil. Do not go to a parts store. Go to a salvage yard and pick up a few OE coils.

The old oil-filled coils may put out more power than stock, but they do seem to have a higher failure rate than stock.

Just an FYI, I am running 30psi + N20 and have no problem with a STOCK Chrysler coil. No problems with spark blowout whatsoever. Copper NGK plugs gapped at .028"

[fishcleaner]

Vibrations and heat kill coils. Where is yours located? I suggest going to a new style coil Im using a MSD unit from my old dakota.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/DSC00672.jpg

Also install it with the +/- on the bottom, the lead wires are submerged in the oil and that helps them from burning out. I wouldn't be afraid of trying a solid state coil, that's what the OEM coil packs are and they seam reliable.

[4 l-bodies]

That's strange, I've ran MSD 6A(L) boxes and Blaster 2 coils in two different TD cars for close to 20 years with zero problems. In fact I can run bigger than stock plug gaps on 20+ PSI boost with no issues. Admittedly, I don't have big mileage on them as they are not daily drivers.
I had a 69 Z-28 years ago. That car would absolutely consume spark plugs. Adding a 6AL box along with Mallory voltmaster coil completely eliminated the problem. Don't think I ever put another plug in that car after that.
It just seems to coincidental that you have had two coil failures in a short amount of time. Are you sure you don't have a lean or rich misfire at your 25+ PSI boost level? A filthy rich A/F will pretty much shut the car off like you have a bad coil. Not trying to second guess you, just trying to help.
Todd

[contraption22]

That's strange, I've ran MSD 6A(L) boxes and Blaster 2 coils in two different TD cars for close to 20 years with zero problems. In fact I can run bigger than stock plug gaps on 20+ PSI boost with no issues. Admittedly, I don't have big mileage on them as they are not daily drivers.
I had a 69 Z-28 years ago. That car would absolutely consume spark plugs. Adding a 6AL box along with Mallory voltmaster coil completely eliminated the problem. Don't think I ever put another plug in that car after that.
It just seems to coincidental that you have had two coil failures in a short amount of time. Are you sure you don't have a lean or rich misfire at your 25+ PSI boost level? A filthy rich A/F will pretty much shut the car off like you have a bad coil. Not trying to second guess you, just trying to help.
Todd

Perhaps because yours are older, they are higher quality?

[turbovanman²]

Aurora coil box, I can run .032" plug gaps at 30 psi, :hail:

The downside is they destroy regular plugs in 5K, lol.

[4 l-bodies]

Perhaps because yours are older, they are higher quality?
Mike, that is very possible. Electronics make things more reliable... right up until they fail.:evil:
I never take a long road trip in any of my TD's without taking backups for the things that can strand me on the side of the road. Then of course they never fail.:p
Todd

[supercrackerbox]

Of course the evening after I posted this the coil goes out on the Daytona (again) leaving me with a $155 tow bill.:mad:


That's strange, I've ran MSD 6A(L) boxes and Blaster 2 coils in two different TD cars for close to 20 years with zero problems. In fact I can run bigger than stock plug gaps on 20+ PSI boost with no issues. Admittedly, I don't have big mileage on them as they are not daily drivers.
I had a 69 Z-28 years ago. That car would absolutely consume spark plugs. Adding a 6AL box along with Mallory voltmaster coil completely eliminated the problem. Don't think I ever put another plug in that car after that.
It just seems to coincidental that you have had two coil failures in a short amount of time. Are you sure you don't have a lean or rich misfire at your 25+ PSI boost level? A filthy rich A/F will pretty much shut the car off like you have a bad coil. Not trying to second guess you, just trying to help.
Todd

A lot could be due to where and how it was mounted. On my Charger, I had the oil filled MSD coil mounted on an AC boss on the engine. That one lasted me about 5000 miles, if that. But I've seen people run the MSD coil in the stock location with no problems at all.

[turbodaytona87]

Should have let me know, I had a coil that could've gotten you home.

[johnl]

I'll let Alan correct me but a weak coil dogged him at the Shelby Bash - it was a square one, MSD or Mallory, I forget which.

Back in the 70's, in my misspent youth, we were racing motorcycles in Griffith Park - very tight narrow slick asphalt cut by hand during the last Depression through canyons/hills - and looking for more for bottom end to get off the corners with jump than we were for high speed revs/top end. Don't get me wrong we wanted the HP too, it's just that we could get away with more compression and ignition lead because the amount of time spent at max RPM was so much less. It was all about getting in hot and getting out hot because the straights were so few and so short. The hot set up was lots of advance and lots of compression; these were settings that would seize or hole pistons on a real race track but which worked reeeeeal good in the tight stuff.

Anyway, as part of all that, a friend did a shade tree science experiment with a mess of coils - testing to see which threw the longest spark. The winner was an epoxy cased Chrysler Marine coil that was sold at Sears. We'd routinely gap plugs at 35 and 40 thou and that Chrysler coil would blast through pressures that any stock motorcycle coil would choke on. Sears quit selling that coil a long time ago.:confused:

[Force Fed Mopar]

I tested an old beat up stock coil off some fwd '80s Chrysler, it put out 40k volts. The nice looking spare I had only put out like 20k :) FWIW, I've never had a stock coil die on me, whether on my turbo cars or on my trucks. And I've seen them work at 25-30psi boost levels. I'd be checking out the wiring and grounds, and make sure they are 12v coils and not the older type that are supposed to run on lower voltage through a ballast resistor.

[Aries_Turbo]

i have a pile of stock chrysler coils. and im keeping them all :)

Brian

[supercrackerbox]

Should have let me know, I had a coil that could've gotten you home.

All my cars are the solid state ones now.

[OmniLuvr]

i bought a daytona from a friend who was having troubles with it, i got it running good for about 1k miles, then i would get this random misfire at part throttle, from 2100 rpm and up at part throttle only, if i gave it wot, it would rev up fine? idled fine, just this part throttle issue? i must have changed every sensor, 3 sets of fuel inj, chased wires, and was stumped. it had a brand new blaster 2 msd coil on it, i was there when he bought it. well he decided to mount it on the tstat housing where the epoxy coil was before, and guess what? replaced the coil with a stocker, and the problem vanished.

[cs daytona]

That's strange, I've ran MSD 6A(L) boxes and Blaster 2 coils in two different TD cars for close to 20 years with zero problems. In fact I can run bigger than stock plug gaps on 20+ PSI boost with no issues. Admittedly, I don't have big mileage on them as they are not daily drivers.
I had a 69 Z-28 years ago. That car would absolutely consume spark plugs. Adding a 6AL box along with Mallory voltmaster coil completely eliminated the problem. Don't think I ever put another plug in that car after that.
It just seems to coincidental that you have had two coil failures in a short amount of time. Are you sure you don't have a lean or rich misfire at your 25+ PSI boost level? A filthy rich A/F will pretty much shut the car off like you have a bad coil. Not trying to second guess you, just trying to help.
Todd

well my 1st blaster 2 coil i had, i ran with a wideband guage. i saw that during the misfire it went richer. without changing anything else and cus i just wanted to try it, i bought a cheap replacement, and it all quit and ran great. maybe the blaster 2 is more reliable with an msd box only?

travis

[Turbo_Rampage]

I agree on the MSD Blaster coils being junk. I had one on my Rampage that was mounted on the motor (just above the alt. bracket) and it lasted about 3 months and then left me stranded. Then i got another replacement and mounted it in the stock location, because i figured the vibration killed it and that one lasted a year, and then left me stranded too. I put the stocker one back on (mounted back on the motor) and it's been over 4yrs now and not a single problem, :thumb:. My Dads old truck had a 440 with a MSD distributor, 6AL box and MSD Blaster coil and he went thru 3 coils and two boxes... in 2yrs