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wreckless123
06-16-2006, 12:46 PM
I have been always told that this is bad because it reduces the ability of the spring because they are usually progressive, yet we see them cutting them all the time on Overhaulin? I totally understand that cutting them with a torch is wrong no matter what because the heat ruins the spring. So is cutting them with a cut-off wheel ok? Just a question that has been bothering me..:D

turbovanmanČ
06-16-2006, 01:23 PM
Progressive springs, yes, you can't cut them but normal rate springs you can. Springs shouldn't be cut as it alters there spring rate and if cut enough, can fall out over bumps etc. If cutting is done with a cut off wheel, theres nothing wrong with cutting off a coil or 2 to adjust your ride.

For example, to lower vans, you use coil overs or use the Daytona strut and spring but this lowers the van 3.5 inches. To get around this, I cut my stock mini spring 1 coil and 8 inchs and its just about right. :thumb:

Holley
06-16-2006, 03:07 PM
Ditto that, I've cut springs on a couple of '70s cars without problems, if doing something radical clamp the springs to the perches so they don't unseat over yumps.

I've cut them with a grinder then used a torch to heat and flatten the top coil so it seats right. With most TDs the factory located spring options are limited, so this is a necesity in many situations if you want it to sit just right!

When I mentioned this on TD.com a while back I got shot down in flames :(

EDIT: Oh yeah, don't need to flatten the tops of TD springs ... that applies to stuff like Ford Capris and Triumphs!

kingofvenus
06-16-2006, 04:23 PM
Ditto that, I've cut springs on a couple of '70s cars without problems, if doing something radical clamp the springs to the perches so they don't unseat over yumps.

I've cut them with a grinder then used a torch to heat and flatten the top coil so it seats right. With most TDs the factory located spring options are limited, so this is a necesity in many situations if you want it to sit just right!

When I mentioned this on TD.com a while back I got shot down in flames :(

EDIT: Oh yeah, don't need to flatten the tops of TD springs ... that applies to stuff like Ford Capris and Triumphs!
Last week my future son in law got a flat left front tire on his cadavalier from the cut down spring unseating. It spun around till the bottom of it was under the perch, and it hit the sidewall and cut a nice big groove in it.

Holley
06-16-2006, 05:50 PM
Hence the clamping ... it shouldn't happen in normal street driving though, just when the suspension is near fully extended. I ran a Chevette with 2" of loaded height cut out of the springs for a couple of years without any problems, covered about 16K in all ... that was one that needed the top of the springs flattened out too IIRC.

2.216VTurbo
06-16-2006, 06:18 PM
A word of advice, cut a little at a time like maybe start with 3/4 of a coil then go 1/4 coil at a time until you get the desired height. For instance, I changed out my too soft stock TC Masi springs to a boneyard set of HD (Shelby Daytona) springs and ended up cutting just a 1/2 coil in the fronts and 3/4coil in the rear to get the stance I wanted. A little can go a long way sometimes, whack off too much and you will be looking for new springs:( For the rears it's easist just to take them out with the two rear axle bolts dropping the whole shebang but for the fronts just jack the car to unload the springs, then use a prybar and shims to get a little bit of clearance between the sping and the perch and the cut off wheel will make quick work of it. That way you dont have to dissasemble the whole front strut assembly!

3Bar_Mopar
06-16-2006, 08:01 PM
What about just using spring clamps.....they sell them at Advance Auto for about $5 a pack of two clamps, 1 pack for each side.
The only thing is it's a huge pain in the butt to get the springs close enough to start the clamp bolts.

t3rse
06-16-2006, 09:34 PM
i've always wondered this as well, and wouldn't the clamps increase sping rate every so slightly due to compression?

turbovanmanČ
06-17-2006, 12:11 AM
Spring clamps are a poor mans cheap fast fix and not recommended.

Holley
06-17-2006, 06:51 AM
Clamps would do the job for running at the track, dunno about using them on the street over an extended period of time.

As for how much to cut out, you can measure the distance between coils when loaded and work out approximately how much to cut out for your required drop - you have to know the length from the inside of the LCA to the front of the hub, and where along that length the strut is joined ... then its just a geometry flashback away (I draw it to get my head around it).

TurboJerry
06-22-2006, 02:25 AM
I want to heat the bottom of my van springs to have them sit flat on the strut after cutting 1 coil off the "XHD" springs, but I was afraid of annealing that last coil, of worse, having it snap off. I'm courious what you guys think about doing this. My Van has always sat 4X4, and I don't know why......

Holley
06-22-2006, 04:42 AM
You should cut from the top!

When heating you do have to be careful not to overdo it - just get it to the point of turning red then use a long pole on the end to bend it as needed (avoid hitting with hammers etc), if additional heat is needed just warm it a bit at a time. When done let it cool on its own.

csteffee
06-22-2006, 10:55 AM
I don't know about the other cars, but I had to cut from the bottom on my L body as the top coil seats into the perch. The next coil would have been too large.

Holley
06-22-2006, 02:32 PM
ok, I went and checked in the old FSM, the front springs on KGE etc are the same diameter all the way down but the top of the spring has a coil or two closer together. From what I can tell having cut the bottom of the spring it shouldn't need any further adjustment ... I really need to check the application before opening my mouth and putting both feet in, lol ...

turbovanmanČ
06-22-2006, 04:19 PM
I want to heat the bottom of my van springs to have them sit flat on the strut after cutting 1 coil off the "XHD" springs, but I was afraid of annealing that last coil, of worse, having it snap off. I'm courious what you guys think about doing this. My Van has always sat 4X4, and I don't know why......

No need to flatten it. When I cut mine, I just assembled it and there fine. Also lowered many a car and never flattened the spring. As long as you make sure the coil ends fit in there respective areas, you'll have no issues.

2.216VTurbo
06-22-2006, 04:36 PM
I want to heat the bottom of my van springs to have them sit flat on the strut after cutting 1 coil off the "XHD" springs, but I was afraid of annealing that last coil, of worse, having it snap off. I'm courious what you guys think about doing this. My Van has always sat 4X4, and I don't know why......
Hijack mode

Jerry when are we gonna see the new lowerd stance on that van? Next SD meeting is Thursday July 6th, how bout it?:eyebrows:

TurboJerry
07-04-2006, 03:45 AM
Thanks for the info everybody! I haden't checked this thread for a while oooopppppssss! I mentioned the flattening because it really jacks with the upper support bearing if not flattened. It looked *very* crooked to me.
I will be there Thurs. Alan, I just won't know which vehicle to bring? I'm still in a quandry about the van spring thing......
And TVM, Which springs are you running? I have a bizzillion "788" springs to play with. The spring wire is *way* thicker. (sorta like the van version of the shelby springs) It still sat high with the original springs though.......

turbovanmanČ
07-09-2006, 03:37 PM
Thanks for the info everybody! I haden't checked this thread for a while oooopppppssss! I mentioned the flattening because it really jacks with the upper support bearing if not flattened. It looked *very* crooked to me.
I will be there Thurs. Alan, I just won't know which vehicle to bring? I'm still in a quandry about the van spring thing......
And TVM, Which springs are you running? I have a bizzillion "788" springs to play with. The spring wire is *way* thicker. (sorta like the van version of the shelby springs) It still sat high with the original springs though.......

Just using the stock 89 front Minivan springs. I cut one coil off and I believe another 4 inches, and Daytona struts. I will go look at my thread on TD. This is a bit too much, lowered it 2.5 inchs, I only want 2 inches. It doesn't bottom out but the rear is lowered 2 inches so I want it even. I might add though, it does look sexy, :nod: :D

csteffee
07-09-2006, 05:59 PM
The best way I've found to get the amount of coil to cut is measure the distance between the top of the tire and the lip of the fender figure how much you want to lower the car. Jack up thje car, take off the tires, replace the lug nuts and cinch down the rotors TIGHT. GENTLY lower the rotors on to a block or some such till the full weight of the car is resting on the rotors. AGAIN don't get in a hurry they WILL support the weight of the car.

Now go up to the spring with your tape measure that you've marked with your lowering amount and bring it around the spring till it contacts the CENTER of a coil and mark. Do this on both sides as not all springs (factory or otherwise) have the exact same rate. Jack up the car get the springs out; cut on your mark; reinstall, install a keeper about 4 inches from the end on the bottom of the strut (this will make the cut end seat better and reduce the chance of bouncing out)and through the top seat. Reinstall your entire suspension. NOTE: you will have to turn the top seat around until the spring is centered over the struts piston rod. Used this on street and track for three years with no problems yet! Also have the alignment checked to be safe. ALSO NOTE: I've done this on constant rate springs. I DO NOT GUARANTEE IT WILL WORK ON VARIABLE RATE SPRINGS!

Reaper1
08-06-2006, 07:01 PM
You can cut Eibach springs on the bottom coils(the ones that are closer together). They bind when they are in the car anyways, and don't do anything but hold the car up. Use a cut off wheel and do it a little at a time. This does work, nothing else special needed....