Daytona headlight and stereo problems

[cordes]

My headlights no longer pop up and down like they should. I believe it was clark who told me to remove the unit in the center of the dash and take the potting of of it. I did and I can feel both relays working when I flip the switch. The headlights went down once, but they won't go back up.

The stereo will flash the station and it sounds like there is a relay clicking in the radio. It will loose power when the glove box door is open, or the pass side door is open. It does not get power at the left most cavity of the power connector.

Any ideas?

[csracer]

For the headlight module, you will probably have to re-flow the solder on the relay pins. I had to do this to mine, if i looked close I could see that the solder joint was cracked. After cutting an access hole in the plastic case and digging out the potting, I basically hit the pins with the soldering iron and added a little solder. It worked great after that. There are two relays and eight pins. there was a how to out there, I think it is on the "other" site.


Chris Still
1989 Daytona Shelby

[TonaChris]

what year daytona? on my 90 i had to resolder the pins in my headlight module under the dash and then at a later date had to resolder the pins through the circuit board on the back of the switch itself. barry has a good right up about it in the kc. I took pictures when i did my repair to go along with barry's write up but never got around to submitting them

[sdac guy]

what year daytona? on my 90 i had to resolder the pins in my headlight module under the dash and then at a later date had to resolder the pins through the circuit board on the back of the switch itself. barry has a good right up about it in the kc. I took pictures when i did my repair to go along with barry's write up but never got around to submitting them
And the 1990 module setup is only for that year. Before that they used the module in the top center of the dash, in 1991 everything was moved to the body computer.

If you are having multiple power problems, I would address those first and then see if the headlight control problem remains. You can manually crank the headlights up and leave them up so you will have working headlights at night. If they crank themselves down again (but not up) you will need to disconnect the plug from the headlight motor control module to get them to stay up.

Barry

[cordes]

Thanks guys. I have an 89' which I should have mentioned in my first post. I will give the board a harder look tomorrow. It really didn't look too bad to me today, but there were a couple rough looking joints.

Looking at my 90' diagrams It seemed like the stereo and the headlights both went through that module in the center of the dash. Does anyone have the 89' diagrams they could post up for me to look at?

[TonaChris]

I have an 89 wiring fsm but I dont have a scanner:(

[cordes]

I have an 89 wiring fsm but I dont have a scanner:(

Well, that's a downer. Don't feel bad though, because my scanner is currently broken.

I should also note that I can hear two clicks in that board when I pull the headlight switch. I sure hope I don't need to pull the dash out of this thing.

[89ShelbyGuy]

Cordes....getting the headlight module out is very simple..all you need is a 1/4 rachet with a philips bit...what i did is put some electrical tape around it so it wouldn't fall out....all you gotta do is unclip that top peice on your dash, so you will see the speakers and what not..and theres 2 screws that you need to take out....after you do that just unclip it...

Heres a write up on it.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f21/98850-headlight-module-repair-part-2-illustrated.html

I did this to 2 of my shelbys...and worked great and never had a problem since!

Tom

[cordes]

Cordes....getting the headlight module out is very simple..all you need is a 1/4 rachet with a philips bit...what i did is put some electrical tape around it so it wouldn't fall out....all you gotta do is unclip that top peice on your dash, so you will see the speakers and what not..and theres 2 screws that you need to take out....after you do that just unclip it...

Heres a write up on it.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f21/98850-headlight-module-repair-part-2-illustrated.html

I did this to 2 of my shelbys...and worked great and never had a problem since!

Tom

Tom, I no longer have access to that site. Would it be possible for you to paste it up over here? I have the deal out of the center of the dash and all the potting compound off of it.

[89ShelbyGuy]

CREDIT GOES TO DartGTS340

http://www.x-plane.org/home/sideslip/images/hlm/P1010049.JPG

In the above image you can see how evident the fracturing is at the points circled in red. The blue ones are getting bad, and the green ones will follow. The red points have an air gap that allows for oxidation, and even though they are physically still in contact, they cause an intermittent problem.

The ABS plastic housing that contains the board is guaranteed to have degraded and become brittle. Once you start to remove it you will see this. It will crumble easily, but will also have to be tore off due to the insulating compound sticking to it.
You can easily just strip it off, solder all the joints, wrap it in electrical tape and just let it hang inplace once you've reinstalled it.
Over time, as I have observed that in every case I have dealt with, the pins on the relays were the problem, I have developed my own procedure that allows me to save the housing, for the most part, and retain the mounting tabs. It is illustrated in the following.

First, using a utility knife, I score a rectangle that will be the area I wish to remove. Scoring it this way will help keep a decent edge to the opening I will create. I score it as deep as I can without breaking through the housing. I don't wish to go through and take the chance of cutting through one of the traces on the PCB. I then scrore it diagonally. This allows me to push down in the middle of the scores and crack the section inside the rectangle.

http://www.x-plane.org/home/sideslip/images/hlm/P1010052.JPG

Once I have an opening I use needle nose pliers to remove the rest of the plastic.
http://www.x-plane.org/home/sideslip/images/hlm/P1010054.JPG


You will have to remove the insulating compound. Get this area as clean as you can, and wash your hands after handling this stuff.

http://www.x-plane.org/home/sideslip/images/hlm/P1010056.JPG

Once you've got it as clean as you can get it, reflow the solder joints with rosin core solder. Don't use acid core because it will only cause corrosion. A fan lightly blowing across your work is advised, because you don't want to breath any fumes from the insulating compound that may be left.
Now some at this point may say that they aren't any good at electronics, and don't think they can do this. With a $5 soldering iron, a $1 roll of solder, and twenty minutes of research on the web about how to properly solder, any of you could do it. If not, then these old cars are going to be way too much for you.

http://www.x-plane.org/home/sideslip/images/hlm/P1010057.JPG

After I'm done, I tape over the opening (here I've done it with black duct tape), and it is ready to install like it originally was.

You could also remove all the plastic and compound from this side. Since all the components are soldered from this one side, you could reflow every point on the board. I would leave a border of 1/4" - 3/8" remaining to keep some structure around the mounting tabs as insurance from them breaking off though.

I don't know what you have to spend for these modules at your local yards, but the ones here let me snag them for $5. I keep a repaired one with me most of the time. I have sold a bunch of them. On more than a few occasions I have spotted someone with their lights up, and sold them a module on the spot for $40. One lady I even installed it for her in the grocery store parking lot, and she forced an extra $10 on me. With the 87 - 88 units it is so easy to pop the dash cover and show them where it goes. So you can see where it can earn you some extra cash. Module for $5, and the repair takes less than 20 minutes. You might be able to get more than $40 for it, but I feel pretty comfortable with that price. I'm profiting, but I'm not gouging them either. Another plus... "Hey, you're into these cars and I was thinking about selling this one, so I figured I'd give you a call..."

Later I'll try to get a picture of the module mounted in its location to add to the beginning of this.
Also, maybe I'll go find the other style modules and add their repairs. Maybe someone else with them can provide that info. I don't particularly care for the 90+ interiors, so it's unlikely that I'll have one in my posession anytime soon.

If the mods believe that this was explained in a clear manner they could possibly sticky it. Might save some trouble when the inevitable question arises again and someone doesn't understand the search function.
If anyone feels I should add something I missed, or would like to merge their info into it, just let me know. Someone please clarify the years that Le Barons used this module, If you will.

[cordes]

Thanks so much for posting that over here. Some of my relay connections look just as bad as those, and one looks much worse. Joy will be very happy when I get this fixed. I will try to snap a couple of pics and add them to this thread too.

[cordes]

Well, I don't have any pics to add because they are pretty much the same thing you have going on there. I did split the case in two and remove the potting from both sides of the board though. I think I will just tape the case back together and call it a day.

I did check the lights and they function flawlessly now though.

Thanks again for all the help guys.