ChargedDust
07-20-2010, 01:01 PM
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/ChargedDust/89%20Daytona%20ES%20sale/P7204267.jpg
I bought this car less than 2 years ago in pretty good condition, but I’m amazed at how quick I spent a large amount of money on a car that was already in good condition. It’s a 2.5L Turbo 1, 5 speed A520. It has 83K miles, power windows, locks, mirrors, cruise control, air conditioning, 4-wheel power disc brakes, AM/FM/CD radio, power enthusiast seat, and Prestige remote alarm with remote entry (and some other features that I’ve never investigated). I’ve decided I don’t want a T-top car so I’m letting it go. It’s not like I didn’t take care of the car, I fixed a whole bunch of small items, upgraded some thing and worked out a bunch of bugs. Who ever buys this car is NOT getting a car with a long list things that it needs, quite the opposite in fact, the list of things I’ve already fixed on it is longer than the list of the few things I would do if I were keeping it. So far I’ve replaced the front and right engine mount (front is MP right is full urethane) and changed the snubber to an adjustable solid bobble strut. I’ve replaced the right CV axle and the intermediate axle and bearing. It has new front tires put on in Aug. ’09 and have less than a thousand miles on them - they are General Altimax HP 205/60R15. It also got a computerized 4-wheel alignment when the new tires went on. I’ve installed a strut tower bar, also have strut tower covers but I haven’t installed those yet, Stant superstat 180° thermostat with a solid cast iron housing, and the battery is brand new installed in Feb. 2010. I converted the A/C system to R-134a in May. I flushed the system, drained and flushed the compressor, replaced the receiver/drier, vacuumed down the system for about 3 hours, checked for leak down and then filled the system using ester oil with UV dye and 3 cans of refrigerant. The A/C blows down to 39° at 96º outside air temp. I’ve also installed a vacuum manifold block and silicone vacuum hoses. The valve cover was powder coated white and I also have a matching white powder coated intake manifold opened up for a 52mm TB, white painted fuel rail and throttle body to go with the car. When I bought the car the T-tops were messed up, I got a good used set with keys and swapped those in, then I managed to find a salvage yard car that I took the locks out of had the locksmith make new keys for them, so you’ll be getting those as well, along with storage bags. When I changed the valve cover I also installed the PT Cruiser lifters with the shims. The car also had a cold air intake setup when I got it, I didn’t much care for it so I replaced the stock aircleaner box with a K&N filter and stock hoses, I used a full metal construction aftermarket BOV valve in place of the stock unit. I like it, works great and consistently, is quiet and if you’re using the nitrous the gas gets recirculated back to the engine instead of being vented in the engine compartment. The nitrous system was installed by the previous owner and I’ve never used it so I can’t say how well it works or how much horsepower it adds. I can tell you the car currently has +20% fuel injectors, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a manual boost controller, I’ve got it set right below the overboost cutout point, somewhere around 14 p.s.i. I wanted something a bit more consistent so I got a stage 3 (15 p.s.i.) computer from FWD Performance, I haven’t installed it yet but it is included with the car. I’m also including the cold air setup that was with the car, it’s in one of the pictures – not the exact one shown just a different (but same style) BOV and adapter pipe, if you don’t want that I can reduce the price a bit, and I’ll just sell that off separately. And I fixed a few little bugs like some wiring for the power locks, and the headlight control module. If I was keeping the car, I would change the driver side mount as well, I would recommend that you do that at your first opportunity. I’m not happy with the way the right mount is sitting and I suspect it’s because the left mount is sagging. I’ve already checked the right mount to make sure it’s seated properly and it’s fine. I’d also replace the missing splash shield for the drive belts. The suspension is firm, the steering is fine the brakes are good, the seat controls work, heater controls all work, the turbo runs fine, doesn’t leak oil, tires are all good. I have the plastic shield for the nose to cover the headlight motors. The radio in the pictures is not included, I will put in it’s place a fully functioning Pioneer DEH-P2900MP. Most of the work done since I’ve had the car I did myself, but a few things had to be done by a shop, which added to the costs. The price I’m asking for the car is what I’ve put into it, frankly I was surprised at the total when I started adding things up. My price is firm, I just want to break even on the car.
There are plenty of pictures and a few video to see here....
http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/ChargedDust/89%20Daytona%20ES%20sale/
Please contact me direct at QFRB97@optonline.net My access to this site is somewhat limited.
I bought this car less than 2 years ago in pretty good condition, but I’m amazed at how quick I spent a large amount of money on a car that was already in good condition. It’s a 2.5L Turbo 1, 5 speed A520. It has 83K miles, power windows, locks, mirrors, cruise control, air conditioning, 4-wheel power disc brakes, AM/FM/CD radio, power enthusiast seat, and Prestige remote alarm with remote entry (and some other features that I’ve never investigated). I’ve decided I don’t want a T-top car so I’m letting it go. It’s not like I didn’t take care of the car, I fixed a whole bunch of small items, upgraded some thing and worked out a bunch of bugs. Who ever buys this car is NOT getting a car with a long list things that it needs, quite the opposite in fact, the list of things I’ve already fixed on it is longer than the list of the few things I would do if I were keeping it. So far I’ve replaced the front and right engine mount (front is MP right is full urethane) and changed the snubber to an adjustable solid bobble strut. I’ve replaced the right CV axle and the intermediate axle and bearing. It has new front tires put on in Aug. ’09 and have less than a thousand miles on them - they are General Altimax HP 205/60R15. It also got a computerized 4-wheel alignment when the new tires went on. I’ve installed a strut tower bar, also have strut tower covers but I haven’t installed those yet, Stant superstat 180° thermostat with a solid cast iron housing, and the battery is brand new installed in Feb. 2010. I converted the A/C system to R-134a in May. I flushed the system, drained and flushed the compressor, replaced the receiver/drier, vacuumed down the system for about 3 hours, checked for leak down and then filled the system using ester oil with UV dye and 3 cans of refrigerant. The A/C blows down to 39° at 96º outside air temp. I’ve also installed a vacuum manifold block and silicone vacuum hoses. The valve cover was powder coated white and I also have a matching white powder coated intake manifold opened up for a 52mm TB, white painted fuel rail and throttle body to go with the car. When I bought the car the T-tops were messed up, I got a good used set with keys and swapped those in, then I managed to find a salvage yard car that I took the locks out of had the locksmith make new keys for them, so you’ll be getting those as well, along with storage bags. When I changed the valve cover I also installed the PT Cruiser lifters with the shims. The car also had a cold air intake setup when I got it, I didn’t much care for it so I replaced the stock aircleaner box with a K&N filter and stock hoses, I used a full metal construction aftermarket BOV valve in place of the stock unit. I like it, works great and consistently, is quiet and if you’re using the nitrous the gas gets recirculated back to the engine instead of being vented in the engine compartment. The nitrous system was installed by the previous owner and I’ve never used it so I can’t say how well it works or how much horsepower it adds. I can tell you the car currently has +20% fuel injectors, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a manual boost controller, I’ve got it set right below the overboost cutout point, somewhere around 14 p.s.i. I wanted something a bit more consistent so I got a stage 3 (15 p.s.i.) computer from FWD Performance, I haven’t installed it yet but it is included with the car. I’m also including the cold air setup that was with the car, it’s in one of the pictures – not the exact one shown just a different (but same style) BOV and adapter pipe, if you don’t want that I can reduce the price a bit, and I’ll just sell that off separately. And I fixed a few little bugs like some wiring for the power locks, and the headlight control module. If I was keeping the car, I would change the driver side mount as well, I would recommend that you do that at your first opportunity. I’m not happy with the way the right mount is sitting and I suspect it’s because the left mount is sagging. I’ve already checked the right mount to make sure it’s seated properly and it’s fine. I’d also replace the missing splash shield for the drive belts. The suspension is firm, the steering is fine the brakes are good, the seat controls work, heater controls all work, the turbo runs fine, doesn’t leak oil, tires are all good. I have the plastic shield for the nose to cover the headlight motors. The radio in the pictures is not included, I will put in it’s place a fully functioning Pioneer DEH-P2900MP. Most of the work done since I’ve had the car I did myself, but a few things had to be done by a shop, which added to the costs. The price I’m asking for the car is what I’ve put into it, frankly I was surprised at the total when I started adding things up. My price is firm, I just want to break even on the car.
There are plenty of pictures and a few video to see here....
http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/ChargedDust/89%20Daytona%20ES%20sale/
Please contact me direct at QFRB97@optonline.net My access to this site is somewhat limited.