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Spycker
07-06-2010, 01:27 PM
Found one on craigslist with 50,000 original miles and I talked the owner down to $400 due to a headgasket going bad. Current non-op kept up to date. Im going to pick up this bad boy today in a few hours and tow it home. Did I just bough myself a great deal or what? first plans first is having the engine rebuilt then going to upgrade the ---- out of it :hail: And my names Edgar :thumb: To be clear 2.2 5 Speed Turbo

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/3m53o13p95Z55W65U5a72b0ac746385081d.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/3na3k73l05Y55Q25Z0a727d064dcab92912.jpg

1984rampage
07-07-2010, 12:05 AM
Good deal man, looks clean! Welcome

Spycker
07-07-2010, 12:47 AM
Those are craigslist pictures from the ad, ill later take some better pictures when I find my camera. Im looking to do a fast 1/4 time..

Spycker
07-09-2010, 07:59 PM
still cant find my camera, i have it on jacks and going to be taken the engine apart shortly.:hail:

NeonShowCar
07-09-2010, 08:09 PM
Where you located in California? I seen a similar one on Craigslist in Perris for sale - not sure if this is that one. Looks like you got a great deal.!

WickedShelby88
07-09-2010, 08:13 PM
That is a great deal for a complete and straight SC let alone a rust free one from California. Good luck with it. My first car was just like this except mine had a sunroof.

Spycker
07-09-2010, 09:10 PM
im located in the bay area, basically norcal :thumb: all turbo mopar owners in california should get together and have a huge meet

Vigo
07-10-2010, 01:54 PM
Why are you having the engine rebuilt?\

Looks like a good deal.

cordes
07-10-2010, 04:07 PM
im located in the bay area, basically norcal :thumb: all turbo mopar owners in california should get together and have a huge meet

I think they already do. :thumb:

Welcome to the site. You should join the Shelby Dodge Automobile Club chapter out your way. Even if it is a long drive it is worth it to attend even on occasion.

Spycker
07-11-2010, 10:51 AM
The engine has a bad head gasket and Im going to take it apart but before I replace that part, im going to examine the cylinder head for any cracks and make sure its completely fine. After it runs fine for a while then Im going to upgrade the heart out of it :hail:

Vigo
07-11-2010, 02:12 PM
Oh, ok. It sounded a little like you thought it needed to be rebuilt because the headgasket has blown, which is rarely the case unless they drive around with water in the crankcase until it spins bearings and locks up.

Spycker
07-11-2010, 08:24 PM
Changelog: 7/11/10

- Need to Steam clean engine bay
- Fix left door hinge
- Fix glove box hinge
- Fix radiator fan, which doesnt seem to turn on
- Fix hood, doesnt close

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/2010-07-11170304.jpg

minigts
07-11-2010, 08:47 PM
Wow is all I can say. One that is great deal on a car, and two that looks to be in GREAT condition! As Cordes said, you should join the SDAC group and if you get a chance to make it to an event, you should absolutely do it. I've been to 3 so far and driven to all of them, usually about 10-12 hours average to each.

For the fan, check to see if it even works (apply direct power to the green and black from the battery). If it does turn on, you'll have 2 relays on the driver's strut tower to check. If you need the wiring sheets let me know and I'll get them taken and posted for you. Welcome to the site!

Spycker
07-11-2010, 09:24 PM
i tested the fan with direct power from the battery and it works. if you can pass me the relay sheets, thatll be helpful! thanks

cordes
07-11-2010, 10:41 PM
i tested the fan with direct power from the battery and it works. if you can pass me the relay sheets, thatll be helpful! thanks

The relay for the fan is easily identifiable as it has the same large gauge green wire running to it. It is located on the driver's side strut tower.

minigts
07-11-2010, 11:54 PM
i tested the fan with direct power from the battery and it works. if you can pass me the relay sheets, thatll be helpful! thanks


The relay for the fan is easily identifiable as it has the same large gauge green wire running to it. It is located on the driver's side strut tower.

Posting shortly. And the fan is ALSO connected to the other relay if you have A/C, which is the one right next to it with the 3 and 2 wire connectors. If that wire isn't in the circuit with that relay, it won't turn on.

Spycker
07-12-2010, 12:08 AM
i dony see an AC compressor, so that means i dont AC but i do have the controls for it which is weird

minigts
07-12-2010, 12:14 AM
Well it just means it's not installed, maybe. If you have the condenser and/or the mount at the firewall, you'll have the A/C relay. Here are the diagrams. Turns out I had them all along already online. :)

http://minigts.com/servicemanual/85_Diagrams/wiring/LMZ_Diagrams/

That is the entire wiring diagram set for the 1985 L body.

Spycker
07-12-2010, 12:58 AM
Thanks for the link, its helpful. Im glad this website helps unlike the turbododge website that are straight up --------.

NeonShowCar
07-12-2010, 01:25 AM
What other website? ;)

We (SDAC-CA) meet on the first thursday of the month in LaHambra (at least that is where I think it is). Usually have 20-30 sometimes higher people show up to a meet. All kinds of Turbo Mopars too. I can get you the address if you'd like to try to make it one time (Its been long time since i've been to an meet though).

Spycker
07-12-2010, 01:34 AM
Thats why im going to buy a decal from this site. Yes, can you get me the address? thanks

Spycker
07-12-2010, 08:44 PM
does the car top out at 85mph? Or can you keep going ? Or maybe add abigger speedometer? Does anyone know the thread for wiring an air/fuel ratior gauge and psi gauge? Thanks

GLHS592
07-12-2010, 08:51 PM
does the car top out at 85mph?

No.


Or can you keep going ?

Yes.


Or maybe add abigger speedometer?

There wasn't one made for an L-body, but you can get a speedo overlay like in a GLHS.
http://www.dempseybowling.com/sheldodg/87ovrlay.jpg


Does anyone know the thread for wiring an air/fuel ratior gauge and psi gauge? Thanks

How to wire it is toward the bottom of the page.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_o2gauge.html

For the boost (psi) gauge, just tap into manifold vacuum/boost. Don't connect at the fuel pressure regulator.

Spycker
07-12-2010, 10:59 PM
Thanks a lot, I've been to that site before, I didn't know that article was there. Weather seems bad right now, hope it isn't tomorroow I wanna get some work done.

Spycker
07-13-2010, 02:41 PM
I tried starting the car today and it doesnt seem to turn just make a " click " sound. My best bet, is the starter relay that went out? if so, anyone has one that works in good condition? thanks otherwise im going to buy new.

cordes
07-13-2010, 05:10 PM
I tried starting the car today and it doesnt seem to turn just make a " click " sound. My best bet, is the starter relay that went out? if so, anyone has one that works in good condition? thanks otherwise im going to buy new.

You need to jump the wires at the relay to make sure it isn't just a bad starter. I don't have diagram in front of me now, but I could try to put it up later.

Spycker
07-13-2010, 07:06 PM
How do I go upon doing it? sorry if I sound like a new person but this is my first 80s mopar.

cordes
07-13-2010, 08:50 PM
My scanner won't work so you will have to bare with the paint pics here.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/starterrelay.gif

You can test the starter solenoid by jumping the battery terminal and the solenoid terminal on the connector.

If that checks out, make sure you are getting voltage at the battery terminal on the connector (if you weren't the previous test wouldn't work either), hook up the connecotr to the starter relay, jumper between terminal 1, and terminal 4. If it tries to start, the starter relay is good. If it doesn't crank, connect a second jumper wire from terminal 5 to a good ground. If it cranks, the starter relay is good, but the park/neutral switch or linkage for the auto transmissions is bad.

If you have any questions let me know. I'm sure what I just wrote is very confusing.

minigts
07-13-2010, 11:49 PM
http://minigts.com/servicemanual/85_Diagrams/wiring/LMZ_Diagrams/85_8LMZ_06-starter_system.jpg

cordes
07-14-2010, 12:02 AM
Thanks Jon. That is a little better than my diagram.

minigts
07-14-2010, 12:03 AM
Thanks Jon. That is a little better than my diagram.

NO NO....yours was....good....

Spycker
07-14-2010, 01:52 AM
thanks and this is why im getting a tm decal, ill put some work on the shelby when i get home from work tomorrow

audiomaninc
07-14-2010, 07:15 AM
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that if you hear a clicking, the relay is good. It sounds as though you either have a bad starter, or a dead battery. If the engine turned over when you bought it, and it's sat for a bit, I'd lean toward the battery. Nice car by the way!

Spycker
07-14-2010, 10:10 AM
i though the single click sound was a bad starter relay? lol i have a working battery, itll be the starter but ill test it later on today then ill be able to rule out what part ill need to replace

Spycker
07-16-2010, 12:18 AM
single click sound, ive done a ground wire test run, it does the same single click but i can hear something turning, not the engine, im thinking the starter, so the relay is bad

minigts
07-16-2010, 12:22 AM
You can pull the cap off the starter relay and see if it's working. If you have a spare laying around, that's the easy test, but if you pull the cover off and watch to see if the contacts touch when the key is turned forward, that would eliminate that. Relays can go bad, but I've not seen too many go without literally burning to a crisp.

Spycker
07-17-2010, 03:58 AM
I need to special order the starter, since kragen and autozone dont carry it?

minigts
07-17-2010, 10:12 AM
If you take the cap off the relay with a flat head screw driver, you can have someone try and turn the key and see if the contact works. You can also get a test light (easiest), ground the one end and touch the BR wire, have someone try and start it and see if the test light lights up when they try and start the car. You can also get a standard relay and try one other approach.

Ok, here's what you CAN do but I would be SUPER careful with the wires not to touch them. All relays work the same. There's a coil inside with two wires that charge the coil creating a magnet and two contacts that are open until the coil is charged and then it creates the circuit. There's a diagram below. But you can take a regular relay, any relay, and "map" the wires to their respective places to test to see if the relay is bad if you can't go pick one up from the store.

Basically when you turn the key to start the car, the yellow wire sends current to the coil which is then grounded by the BR/YL wire. It creates the magnet creating the circuit for the power wire to BR wire going to the starter.

On a standard relay like the ones used on our cars (the black ones), there are up to 5 positions but 99% of the time only 4 are used. 85 and 86 are the coil positions, so one side would be the BR and the other would be the BR/YL.

The other positions are 30 and 87. 30 will be the source power and 87 will be the "receiver". So when the coil is activated, 30 and 87 will touch (this is when you turn the key to the actual starting action) and the starter will engage. Do not hook up 87a at all. It's the middle one, but don't hook it up at all. Some relays will not have the 87a though, so it may not be important to worry about. And the numbers are on the bottom of the relay next to each position.

I would just get a regular relay and try this. If you want to add safety to the equation, take a 20 amp fuse and run the power in to one side the fuse and make a wire to run to the relay. And to do what I'm saying, you should just use a small tool of some sort to extract the wires from the factory plug (DON'T DAMAGE ANY OF THEM, you'll be putting them back) and they will fit the test relay just fine.

Here's a site on relays.

http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

Spycker
07-17-2010, 10:37 AM
thanks for the information, ill be sure to test it out

Spycker
07-18-2010, 02:37 PM
SHES RUNNING!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfCa_Xw4tnM
apparently, theres a little bit of oil coming out from the exhaust along with the black and white smoke, headgasket? oh and i didnt purchase any new starter or relay, i banged the starter solenoid with the help of my father and it worked.

cordes
07-19-2010, 01:26 PM
Glad to hear that you have it running. If there is oil coming out of the exhaust, I would pull the plugs to see if they are covered in oil. If they are dry and the exhaust takes a while before it starts puffing smoke, I would suspect the turbo. If the plugs are oily I would do a compression test.

Spycker
07-19-2010, 02:26 PM
yeah it does take like a minute or so for the smoke, i hope its just a gasket and not the turbo but if its both then time to replace

cordes
07-19-2010, 02:32 PM
yeah it does take like a minute or so for the smoke, i hope its just a gasket and not the turbo but if its both then time to replace

If it takes until the exhaust is hot enough to burn the oil, you are almost certainly leaking oil out of the seal on the turbine side of the turbo.

Spycker
07-19-2010, 02:46 PM
so it must not be a bad headgasket? because im planning on buying a gasket set

cordes
07-19-2010, 04:45 PM
so it must not be a bad headgasket? because im planning on buying a gasket set

You would need to do a compression test also to determine that. Either way it will be easiest for you to pull the head to change the turbo so you will need the HG.

Spycker
07-19-2010, 05:36 PM
got it, ill buy the set and check on both the head and turbo

Spycker
07-19-2010, 06:15 PM
also to put a bov, it must on the air intake after the throttle body, correct?

cordes
07-19-2010, 06:31 PM
also to put a bov, it must on the air intake after the throttle body, correct?

It must be between the turbo and TB in a blow through type of setup. You will need to convert the car to TII if it hasn't already been done for one. If it hasn't been done, you don't need one.

Spycker
07-19-2010, 07:08 PM
i wouldnt need even if i have after market internals and such?

cordes
07-19-2010, 07:25 PM
i wouldnt need even if i have after market internals and such?

No. In the stock TI log setups there is nothing between the turbo and intake to restrict the flow when the throttle closes like there is in the latter TI and TII setups eg. the throttle body.

Spycker
07-19-2010, 07:37 PM
now i understand! thanks for being such a great help, a friend of mine with a 4.6 v8 with a 1/4 of 13.80 wants to race me now, lol typical trash talking ford owners

Spycker
07-21-2010, 02:26 AM
planning on getting a stage 1 ecu upgrade, 803 injectors and f3 camshaft

cordes
07-21-2010, 09:42 AM
Why the big cam?

Spycker
07-21-2010, 01:15 PM
just like in the pm and to everyone else, im buying parts here and thereto build up my block

turbokid
07-22-2010, 01:11 AM
Cam is the last thing I would be looking for. I would look to upgrade to t2 and be putting a big turbo and ported upper end before even looking at getting a cam. The most I would cam the car is putting a roller tbi cam in it.

Spycker
07-22-2010, 09:57 AM
heard about the tbi roller cams and how they work wonders:hail:

Darkapollo
07-22-2010, 01:39 PM
You would need to get the rockers for the roller cam as well. Cant use slider rockers with a roller cam.
a 13.80 out of a 4.8 is hardly fast... There are plenty of guys on here with street tuned L-Bodies running faster then that. Two of my local guys are running low 13's on daily driven cars.. a good T2 swap and an intercooler and a bit of tuning (smec upgrade or chipped LM) and you can easily take the stang.

Spycker
07-22-2010, 11:26 PM
ive talked to a guy on the other dodge website and he gave me tips on how to run 12s, stay tuned on my parts for want thread, ive been working this whole week, tomorrow is my friday and ill get to a wrenching!

Spycker
07-27-2010, 02:59 AM
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9283/37527419839412887504852.jpg

some photoshop mobile using android, cylinder head is out and the gasket is ----, im going to take a look at the seals on the turbo now

cordes
07-27-2010, 09:27 PM
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9283/37527419839412887504852.jpg

some photoshop mobile using android, cylinder head is out and the gasket is ----, im going to take a look at the seals on the turbo now

If you are going to pull the turbo apart you may as well plunk down the $100 for the kit to rebuild it. Some of the seals are pretty delicate as it is so taking apart a 20 year old turbo is a bit of a risk IMO.

Vigo
07-27-2010, 10:29 PM
I got a rebuild kit off of ebay for more like $36+shipping. StraX22 used it to rebuild his t2 garrett and its been fine so far. I plan on buying more.

Spycker
08-07-2010, 04:08 AM
no updates to her yet, besides sanding the body down in where the paint is faded, adding rust eater to the undercarriage which is really minor and im going to work on her again tomorrow mechanically since i have been working nonstop and i finally have days off

Spycker
08-10-2010, 03:45 PM
Somethings wrong, check out the images. It looks like someone poured some sticky substance onto the gas tank and it got into the engine, first three cylinders seem to misfiring or getting less oil. The block doesnt want to turn for some reason, the pistons seem inserted in the incorrect order as well. Turbo seems fine. I though the cylinder headgasket was ---- but you decide

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/FILE0039.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/FILE0040.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/FILE0041.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/FILE0042.jpg

Vigo
08-10-2010, 06:07 PM
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/FILE0042.jpg
Need a better picture of that, put it on something that contrasts like paper towels and take a top-down pic.

the pistons seem inserted in the incorrect order as well.
I dont see anything wrong with the pistons. Those dont even have valve reliefs so its impossible to put them in backwards/wrong.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/FILE0040.jpg
Looks like you might have had a little bit of water getting into the right-most but not much and not for very long. I dont know why the others have weird clean spots.

Why do you think there was something weird/gooey going into the motor? Have a picture?


besides sanding the body down in where the paint is faded

Are you just sanding through the oxidation to restore the finish or are you sanding all the way through the paint, thus necessitating a complete paint job before it ever looks right again?

Judging by the pictures that paint job could easily be fixed without repainting the whole car, unless thats what you wanted to do anyway..

Spycker
08-10-2010, 09:06 PM
im sanding the oxidation down :thumb: this paint job still seems in good intact and heres the two requested pictures, they arent resized that way, youll get a good look at the head gasket.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/FILE0044.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/FILE0045.jpg

Vigo
08-10-2010, 09:29 PM
Oh good im glad to hear you're not just sanding all the way through it. I tend to assume the worst when people start taking sandpaper to a salvageable paint job. :p

I dont see anything super-glaring obvious but it looks likeyou were getting some leakage in the cylinders on the end.

That motor seems pretty heavily carboned up. Id definitely spend some time cleaning everything out (including intake manifold ports) before putting it back together. Carbon deposits can become hot spots and make the motor more prone to detonation when the boost goes up, plus they tend to soak up atomized fuel out of the charge air. Pesky carbon.

Spycker
08-10-2010, 09:38 PM
i cant get a picture but when you press on the oil on the first three cylinders its sticky. is the engine damaged at all? and im also planning thr T2 conversion while its down

Vigo
08-10-2010, 10:50 PM
Its hard for me to say anything based on the oil being sticky because im not sure what's causing that..

I can say if the motor still spins, the cylinders arent all marked up and the bearings look ok, 99% it is perfectly useable.

I would take off the oil pan and clean it out. You dont want any 'sticky stuff' clogging your pickup and ruining the motor. While the pan is off you can take a look at the bearings too. If you've never done that before you'll need a few tips, just say the word.

Spycker
08-10-2010, 11:06 PM
Its hard for me to say anything based on the oil being sticky because im not sure what's causing that..

I can say if the motor still spins, the cylinders arent all marked up and the bearings look ok, 99% it is perfectly useable.

I would take off the oil pan and clean it out. You dont want any 'sticky stuff' clogging your pickup and ruining the motor. While the pan is off you can take a look at the bearings too. If you've never done that before you'll need a few tips, just say the word.


and theres nothing to be leaked neither, i believed someone poured something inside to ruin the engine or something? the block has now failed to turn..it seems stuck, what about the head gasket? does it seem burnt up?

Vigo
08-11-2010, 02:29 AM
Well it doesnt look GOOD but i dont see anything super obvious like a blown out fire ring. It seems likely that the headgasket was leaking at least a little bit.

If the motor wont turn with the head off, you got problems. How are you trying to turn it?

What is on the dipstick when you pull it out, like to check the oil?

Spycker
08-13-2010, 02:09 AM
just bought the mopar headgasket, turbo rebuilt kit..hmmm

Vigo
08-15-2010, 12:18 AM
Let us know what you figure out about the bottom end. It's very unusual for a bottom end to just get sticky and not want to turn unless you spun a bearing or filled the whole crankcase up with a liquid.

Spycker
08-15-2010, 11:10 PM
im actually leaving to las vegas in a few hours and wont be back untill the 8/19 my father is going to lend me a hand and do some work to get the progress moving and once i return, ill continue

Spycker
08-19-2010, 12:09 AM
back from las vegas and time to continue working on her!

Spycker
09-10-2010, 02:25 AM
WHOA! havent updated in forever, piston rings are fried, the headgasket is still useable but I bough an original mopar headgasket from ebay. In other news, the sticky stuff I was mentioning a few posts back is an additive to help restore worn piston seals/rings and to stop smoke that causes that. FAIL ADDITIVE IS FAIL. Everyone, dont never use additive to fix your car the fast way. It might just need rebuilding as I am doing now.

Vigo
09-11-2010, 12:59 AM
So you are saying you put it back together with a new headgasket and drove it and found out the rings were fried? Thats a -----..

Spycker
09-12-2010, 01:36 AM
no? WTF? hahaha. its still on jackstands all in pieces ready to be rebuilt, itll take a while before itll be on the road again.

Vigo
09-16-2010, 01:58 PM
Oh ok. All i saw was not knowing what was wrong with it on one post and then all of a sudden knowing it was the rings in a new post, so i thought maybe something happened that i missed.. It does seem like a safe bet, though.

Spycker
09-22-2010, 02:57 AM
Well at first it was a guessing game since, I was slowly taking it apart. I work and go to school until my dad showed me an additive that " reseals worn piston rings and seals " once i saw that, i was pissed. Thats the only problem, its the rings and since I have everything apart now, the rings are ----. :thumb:

Spycker
11-19-2010, 03:55 AM
Havent updated in forever. Times are hard and Im saving up for what I really want. Engine is still down but looking to find a shop that works on the 2.2 blocks. Ive noticed minor rust in the undercarriage, I think ill give it a good work run. Im tracing back hoses and replacing them all, brand new. Pics to come?

Spycker
12-30-2010, 03:40 PM
Update: after further investigation, ive noticed that cylinder rods #3 #4 had bearings marked " c-4 " and cylinder #1 #2 had bearings marked " c-3 " in their rods.
could this mean the owner before me had a shop rebuild the engine with two different rods than the others? and pistons #3 #4 are different from #1 #2

Spycker
12-31-2010, 09:41 PM
anyone wanna help me out?

cordes
01-04-2011, 12:41 PM
anyone wanna help me out?

I think you will need to check the clearances to be sure.

Spycker
01-05-2011, 12:17 AM
everything is sized differently, jesus this car is a mess! im glad parts are coming along the way

Spycker
01-06-2011, 03:56 PM
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/pistonsa.jpg

thanks to tryingbe for the T2 Rods

Spycker
01-26-2011, 12:42 AM
Im going to order a few parts and early next month im going to send the head off to lone wolf performance to do a stage 3 port and polish.

Spycker
02-05-2011, 12:20 AM
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs783.ash1/167310_10150097044457888_504852887_6151507_4432138 _n.jpg
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs056.snc6/168691_10150097044637888_504852887_6151510_1169526 _n.jpg


I bought a lone wolf performance port and polish exhaust manifold and a TBI roller camshaft from tryingbe on here.

Spycker
02-07-2011, 12:25 AM
look what i got!
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/IMG_20110206_200442.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/IMG_20110206_200434.jpg

A523 Transmission from a Plymouth Sundance with about 107k miles.

Spycker
02-07-2011, 02:44 PM
Updated my Parts Wanted List.:hail:

Spycker
02-28-2011, 01:26 AM
I guess I forgot to show everyone my +40% fuel injectors http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/180385_10150101175522888_504852887_6208813_4080281 _n.jpg

Spycker
04-04-2011, 11:27 PM
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/207132_10150156046292888_504852887_6579735_5476984 _n.jpg

waiting for the other stuff to come in! the size on the driver axle is 25/26

Juggy
04-07-2011, 03:43 PM
did you order the passenger side axle yet?

Spycker
04-07-2011, 11:56 PM
Its on its way....;-)

Spycker
04-25-2011, 03:10 PM
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/215618_10150173787767888_504852887_6743156_1686947 _n.jpg


I got JE's .20 over Pistons.
91 Shadow Shifter/Cables

Spycker
07-08-2011, 05:37 PM
holset hx35 and a mexican g head FTFW?

Spycker
04-01-2012, 06:27 PM
its 2012 and im selling all 2.2 parts and going to the 2.4 bandwagon!

Orangetona
04-02-2012, 04:06 PM
its 2012 and im selling all 2.2 parts and going to the 2.4 bandwagon!

Eww ;)

Spycker
04-08-2012, 06:36 PM
^ Hater

Orangetona
04-08-2012, 07:58 PM
Hahaha

Spycker
04-09-2012, 03:06 AM
yessir, theres a ---- ton of 2.4 NA engines...now that ive read alot of information...time to pick one up from the junkyard over here, ill be doing that on the 19 or 20th of this month, then im going to get custom mounts for it...before i continue

Spycker
07-04-2012, 08:53 PM
an update on this project. im going to build a 2.2 8v instead in order for it to pass " smog " test then i might do a hybrid swap...

Spycker
08-17-2014, 03:02 AM
51459 reviving this project with a rebuilt turbo engine/transmission and then it goes in the car! FINALLY

- - - Updated - - -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a391/zeldax/10604105_10152628603267888_4270914496020532343_o_z ps58bc9a7a.jpg

minigts
08-17-2014, 07:59 PM
About time! :)

Spycker
08-18-2014, 01:12 AM
Lol yeah.....I forgot that the rebuilt engine that i bought needs a new timing belt and water pump housing....D'oH!

Spycker
04-05-2015, 11:29 PM
another year.......................hoping to have it runnnnnnnning. I hope!!!!!!

Spycker
05-12-2015, 03:02 PM
the engine that i had ready to install has some internal damage, i actually have an 89 2.2 tbi block, accessories, t2 pistons and rods, maybe thatll be a great combination

Spycker
09-23-2015, 05:30 PM
looks like ill be going 16v 2.2 with this build. . . . .

Spycker
03-15-2016, 11:14 PM
almost done collecting parts for the hybrid swap......6 years in the making and counting.! ! !

Spycker
03-22-2016, 02:36 AM
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57684&stc=1

from a 97 pathfinder cam gears. more parts to come.

Spycker
05-08-2018, 02:50 AM
BUMP! bringing the project back to life. I bought another Daytona AS WELL!