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SebringLX
06-07-2010, 09:50 AM
I originally put most of this down starting in 2007 here: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12004

I figured it's time to continue the log here. Not much has changed, so I'll just start with what's happened so far in 2010.

Had the A/C fixed. An error in my tune caused me to lose all my freon. Fixed the error, had it charged. The car has ice cold A/C for the 1st time in almost 2 years. :D

Had the solenoid pack replaced with a brand new Borg Warner solenoid pack. Hoping this has fixed the weird RPM drop and P0740 issues I had all last year.

Replaced the battery after it died due to me leaving my headlights on while I took my son to see Iron Man 2. I still had the OEM Mopar battery in there, which would be at least 7 years old. I was going to put an Optima Red Top in it, but couldn't find one that fit. After noticing that Optima is made by Johnson Controls, I went with a Farm and Fleet Platinum battery that cost half as much as the Optima. Farm and Fleet's batteries are also made by Johnson Controls (made locally too), so I'm sure they're very similar, if not the same, on the inside.

Yesterday I went to work on a new tune for the car. Noticed my fuel pressure gauge was reading 75psi :confused:, thought maybe it had crept up or the adjustment bolt on the fuel pressure regulator got knocked loosed when it got moved around to replace the solenoid pack. So I tried to lower the pressure, and the gauge stayed in the same spot. Great, gauge is broken, and I have no idea where my fuel pressure is at.

I ordered this gauge (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2180/) to replace the cheap (and now broken) one I've had on the fuel rail for years now. It should be here Wednesday. Hopefully I'll have enough time to get it in, and get a good tune on the car before the dyno day, drag racing, and autocross I have scheduled next week.

SebringLX
06-09-2010, 08:05 PM
Fuel pressure gauge came in today. It's much nicer than the broken one it's replacing. The old one went up to 160psi and this one only goes up to 100psi, but that should be plenty. The old gauge was stuck ~70psi, even after removing it, it was still reading ~70psi. I also picked up a bolt to re-mount the fuel pressure regulator, it lost it's bolt a long time ago and was just kind of zip tied to one of the intercooler pipes. Looks much cleaner now that it's mounted again.

After getting everything installed, the car barely wanted to start. Looked at the new gauge, and it was reading ~5psi! I adjusted the fuel pressure regulator up to 58psi where it should be. Running extremely rich now. Not sure how long the old gauge was broken, apparently I tuned around improper fuel pressure. :( Have to re-tune now.

I took some pics and will post them when I get a chance.

raccoon
06-09-2010, 08:35 PM
ouch that sucks, i hope it didn't cause damage.

Shadow24
06-10-2010, 06:51 AM
Good luck retuning! :) if you were running rich all the time to some degree, i don't think you would have hurt anything...

SebringLX
06-10-2010, 03:45 PM
I got part throttle looking good in just 1 flash. Fuel trims look good. WOT was way too lean though. Going to adjust the rising rate ratio on the FPR and see if that helps. The adjustment screw is currently all the way out, can't remember what ratio that gives. IIRC it starts at less than 1:1 and goes to around 2:1.

Aries_Turbo
06-14-2010, 09:31 PM
ummm, wouldnt you tune via the tables in the ecu over a RRR if you have full control over the tune???? doesnt using the RRR seem a bit backwards at that point?

you have a return line setup right?

glad to see the sebring is still kicking along though. :)

Brian

SebringLX
06-17-2010, 04:09 PM
ummm, wouldnt you tune via the tables in the ecu over a RRR if you have full control over the tune???? doesnt using the RRR seem a bit backwards at that point?

you have a return line setup right?

glad to see the sebring is still kicking along though. :)

Brian
Yes, but I have the tune setup for 1:1 rising rate & return line, so I need to play with it to get it back in the right spot.


Took it to the dyno today, results here:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?p=674921#post674921

Going to the track on Saturday. :D

Aries_Turbo
06-17-2010, 04:29 PM
Yes, but I have the tune setup for 1:1 rising rate & return line, so I need to play with it to get it back in the right spot.

ahhh hence my confusion. so you want to put it back to 1:1 from the previous setting rather than add fuel via the RRR. :)

nice pulls.

Brian

SebringLX
06-19-2010, 11:29 PM
Great day at the track! 12.9 @ 110mph! Thread on there here: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50282

Asside from winning 2nd place in the Quick 8 (got a trophy, $65, and a t-shirt!), the best part was driving 100 miles to the track with ice cold AC, and still being able to drive 100 miles home with ice cold AC.

Still have lots of tuning to do. Needs less fuel in the lower RPM and lower boost range. Needs more fuel in the higher boost and mid to upper RPM range.

Room for more timing all around. I finally have a way to monitor KR after spending some time on the phone with Autoenginuity, got my Enhanced Chrysler Pack running... there's so much stuff I can monitor now, it's like information overload.

SebringLX
06-21-2010, 08:59 PM
Tried a different mix of fuel today... 6 gallons of E-85, 8.4 gallons of 93 octane. Held mid 11:1 AFRs peaking 26.3psi falling to 25psi at redline. 58psi static fuel pressure. Need to see if I'm getting knock with this mix or not.

SebringLX
06-24-2010, 09:47 PM
UPS delivered a PT Cruiser Stage 1 auto trans PCM to me today. I put it in the Sebring and it starts right up. Cluster appears normal. Car shuts off right away due to VIN mismatch. If I can get someone to flash the VIN from my Sebring to this PCM, it should work. This will bring about a whole new era of tuning for me. :D

SebringLX
07-02-2010, 04:54 PM
I managed to do about $1600 worth of damage to the transmission. Blew up the torque converter clutch, metal everywhere. So the converter is getting rebuilt and beefed up, going to have a 4000rpm stall now. Should help drop my 1/4 mile time by at least .5, hopefully more. I won't be able to get the car back until the 16th, so I'm not going to have any time to tune it before drag racing on the 17th, and I'm not going to be able to get the PT Cruiser Stage 1 PCM going in there since I can't drive the car to Springfield when I go for ANG duty Tuesday.

SebringLX
07-16-2010, 10:20 PM
Finally picked up the car today. I put 60 miles on it to break the new torque converter in before racing tomorrow. It's driving really nice now.

turbovanmanČ
07-17-2010, 03:28 AM
Cool, report back on the TC.

SebringLX
08-04-2010, 11:11 AM
I should have my car back on the 13th. Putting together a little "To-Do" list for when I get it back.

1. Attempt to clean EBC solenoid. Replace if cleaning doesn't fix it.
2. Get 2-step setup.
3. Get that PT Cruiser Stage 1 auto PCM flashed with my VIN and SKIM to see if it will work

There's a few other things to do, but I think those 3 may be all I finish this year.

Dusty_Duster
08-06-2010, 09:48 PM
4. Install an external transmission cooler and transmission temperature gauge.

SebringLX
08-09-2010, 09:47 AM
4. Install an external transmission cooler and transmission temperature gauge.

Never! j/k, that's on the list, but not likely to get done this year, along with suspension, and a few other things, due to budget

SebringLX
08-20-2010, 10:01 AM
$800 later, I finally have my car back. Broke now, so won't be doing anything with it anytime soon.

SebringLX
03-19-2011, 04:28 PM
It's ALIVE! I got it up and running today, drove it to the car wash. :D Got the repaired DIS2 hooked up, doesn't like to start without a little throttle with it hooked up though. :\ Without it hooked up, it starts right up. Seemed to run OK once it got started though. Going to have to take another drive with the DIS2 bypassed and see if it runs better without it. I wanted to use the DIS2 for the 2-step, but if it's going to run like crap with it hooked up, forget it.

Got all my gauges working again, and dash put back together. :D I parked it with a full tank of gas, so it's got 6+ month old gas in it. :(

SebringLX
03-19-2011, 06:44 PM
Oil was nasty from sitting for so long, so I changed it. Went for another drive with the DIS2 bypassed. Seems stronger and smoother. I'm thinking maybe the dual channel ignition adapter is the problem? The DIS2 won't work without it. The DIS2 got repaired so it should be working great, the ignition adapter however hasn't been touched, and was on when the DIS2 broke.

turbovanmanČ
03-19-2011, 06:57 PM
Awesome glad to hear, just in time to scatter another trans, :fencing: :p

SebringLX
03-25-2011, 03:54 PM
With the electrical issues finally sorted out, the car is running really strong now. Did a 22psi pull down the back road on the way home, now I have a huge grin on my face. I really missed driving it. Can't wait to hit the track! This weekend I plan to go to Radio Shack to pick up some supplies to get the 2-step setup.

turbovanmanČ
03-25-2011, 06:17 PM
Sweet, :nod:

So the trans held? LMAO. :eyebrows: :D

SebringLX
03-25-2011, 07:39 PM
Sweet, :nod:

So the trans held? LMAO. :eyebrows: :D

I'm sending you the bill if it breaks. :P

SebringLX
03-31-2011, 05:53 PM
The exhaust leak seems to be fixed. :D I picked up a K&N filter cleaning kit. I'm going to clean my filter for the 1st time in 4 years. :o Then it will be time to do some tuning. If the weather is nice next weekend, I may head to the track for the test and tune, and try to get a few passes in.

Reaper1
03-31-2011, 07:53 PM
Good luck! I love following this car's adventures! :thumb:

SebringLX
04-04-2011, 05:07 PM
I made an adjustment to the tune, and the long term and short term fuel trims looked a lot better, but WOT went from being way too rich to being way too lean. Then I realized that I still had my fuel pressure regular setup for static pressure. I set it back up for rising rate, and blew hose off the check valve. I think it was loose already causing a boost leak before, 'cause after I got it back on there, holy cow! By-by lag and late spool! There's a split second when I floor it that it's still very rich, but as soon as it hits full boost, the AFRs are perfect all the way to redline.

I think I'll zip-tie the small vacuum lines going to both the fuel pressure regulator and the blow-off valve, just to make sure they aren't leaking and don't pop off. Tomorrow I'll try to put some E85 in so I can turn up the boost. I don't want to run more than the 22-23psi I have it at now with just 93 octane in the tank, just to be safe.

I also have to figure out why my electronic boost controller/boost gauge suddenly stopped getting an RPM signal. I had it setup to display boost, AFR, and RPM all at the same time. Now the RPM just sits at 0. Tach on my instrument cluster still works, so I probably just knocked a wire going to the EBC loose somewhere.

SebringLX
04-04-2011, 08:30 PM
I found that I accidently unplugged the tach adapter, plugged it back in, and got an RPM signal again. :D I decided to finally remove the E-Manage. Connected all the wires that were going to it back to stock. I also connected the TPS signal to my WEGO-III datalogging Wideband, so I can make use of some extra features on that. Then I decided to make a quick video testing the 2-Step. The audio came out really bad, but oh well. :(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzfXXNWZNqo

Aries_Turbo
04-04-2011, 11:17 PM
is the regulator a standard 1:1 regulator?

Brian

SebringLX
04-05-2011, 07:25 AM
is the regulator a standard 1:1 regulator?
Brian

No it's adjustable. I'm not sure what the adjustment range is, I think it will do a bit less than 1:1 and a bit more than 1:1 as well.

Aries_Turbo
04-05-2011, 12:15 PM
it should be set to 1:1.

im glad youve started taking extra boxes off of that car. in my opinion, you should take all those extra boxes off the car, including the MSD. those things are terrible.

too many overlapping tuning devices (emanage, RRR, MSD box etc) makes it impossible to dial the car in and have it behave consistently.

Brian

SebringLX
04-05-2011, 02:22 PM
it should be set to 1:1.

im glad youve started taking extra boxes off of that car. in my opinion, you should take all those extra boxes off the car, including the MSD. those things are terrible.

too many overlapping tuning devices (emanage, RRR, MSD box etc) makes it impossible to dial the car in and have it behave consistently.

Brian

The E-Manage was 0'd out, abandoned, and never used again within about a week of getting the car running. I just never got around to removing it because it was a whole big mess of wires to go through. I'm glad I finally got it out of there too.

The RRR is needed, there's no way to tell if it's set to 1:1 or something else, it doesn't have set markings on it, just a little nob on one of the valves that can be adjusted to fully open or fully closed. Usually about halfway between works best, I just make minor adjustments on it until it seems to be about 1:1 watching the needle on the fuel pressure gauge rise with boost.

The MSD DIS2+ is good when its hooked up properly. Their customer service was excellent when I fried mine. I had it for 4 years before it died on me, and it only died because it got shorted out. Bad ground + being exposed to heavy rain = fried. I'm happy to have the 2-Step working on it, and can't wait to use it at the track.

cordes
04-05-2011, 02:40 PM
The E-Manage was 0'd out, abandoned, and never used again within about a week of getting the car running. I just never got around to removing it because it was a whole big mess of wires to go through. I'm glad I finally got it out of there too.

The RRR is needed, there's no way to tell if it's set to 1:1 or something else, it doesn't have set markings on it, just a little nob on one of the valves that can be adjusted to fully open or fully closed. Usually about halfway between works best, I just make minor adjustments on it until it seems to be about 1:1 watching the needle on the fuel pressure gauge rise with boost.

The MSD DIS2+ is good when its hooked up properly. Their customer service was excellent when I fried mine. I had it for 4 years before it died on me, and it only died because it got shorted out. Bad ground + being exposed to heavy rain = fried. I'm happy to have the 2-Step working on it, and can't wait to use it at the track.

If you have a way to jump the fuel pump relay you should be able to dial it in with a compressor and a FP gauge while the car is off.

SebringLX
04-05-2011, 02:48 PM
If you have a way to jump the fuel pump relay you should be able to dial it in with a compressor and a FP gauge while the car is off.

I don't have a compressor. :(

cordes
04-05-2011, 03:00 PM
I don't have a compressor. :(

If you don't have a friend with one, and don't want to pay the guy at a shop, there are alternatives. I'm sure with the right fittings and 75 cents you could do it at your neighborhood gas station.

Aries_Turbo
04-05-2011, 06:30 PM
you dont need crazy boost, you just need some pressure.

you can use a dosage measuring syringe from the drugstore to pressurize the diaphragm of the regulator by hand while the pump is jumped to power so it runs. obviously you cant have the car running or it will stall from being pig rich.

http://www.angels4animals.com/10-cc-plastic-syringe.jpg

brian

SebringLX
04-07-2011, 06:13 PM
The weather is looking really nice for Saturday. My wife should be home by noon, so I play to be out at Byron Dragway by 1 PM. Hopefully I will have run enough of the E85 out of the car to be able to put enough race gas in to richen it up enough to raise the boost. With straight E85 I'm limited to about 17psi right now. IIRC from last year, I needed at least 5 gallons of 93 octane on top of 8 gallons of E85 to be able to run ~24psi and not get too lean. That's what got me my 12.9 and 12.8 runs.

I am really hoping the 2-step helps me get down to at least a 1.7 60'. That alone should drop me to about a 12.4, since my 12.8 last year was off a 1.9 60'. I'll be happy to beat last years best at all, and I'll be extremely happy if I can get a 12.5 or better my 1st time out this year.

I'm planning to race at at least 3 events this year. SDAC20, the Belivedere Mopar Happening, and the Monster Mopar Weekend. I might end up at more than just those, but those are my 3 must-go-to for 2011.

Orangetona
04-09-2011, 08:26 PM
That was the worst audio ive ever heard in my life. Otherwise, nice project. :) Looks like its been an experience.

Spycker
04-09-2011, 09:56 PM
the audio sounded like loose vagina lips slapping each other in the end

SebringLX
04-10-2011, 06:36 PM
I managed to get another 12.8 @ 106 at the track yesterday.

R/T .412 (Messing with the 2-step, not worried about cutting a good light, last year was a .005)
60' 1.952 (+0.037 worse than last year)
330 5.384 (-0.002 better than last year)
1/8 8.258 (-0.014 better than last year)
MPH 85.13 (+0.05 better than last year)
1000 10.756 (-0.008 better than last year)
1/4 12.865 (-0.007 better than last year)
MPH 105.67 (-1.32 worse than last year)

I also managed to get this time with 23psi falling to 22psi this year compared to last year I needed a little over 25psi falling to 24psi to get it. So I pretty much matched last years best with less boost. Definitely lots of room for improvement.

SebringLX
08-29-2011, 05:04 PM
I need to replace the rear shocks and springs for sure, most likely the front as well. I figure this is probably a good time to upgrade the suspension since it needs to be replaced. The only option for a 2G Sedan right now is B&G springs for a 1.4" drop and KYB GR-2 Shocks.

Looks like total price for parts will be $469.

I got a quote for installation on them, seems kinda high. $336 for the front, and $280 for the rear. Seems kinda high. This shop has always been honest with me though, and beaten prices of other places around here, so I dunno. Don't have the tools or the time to try and do it myself or I would.

So to get it done, I'd be looking at $1,085. :(

I might have to wait a little longer on this, need to get the trans leak fixed first, dunno how much that is going to cost. I should have the car in the shop to get the leak fixed by the end of the week.

Aries_Turbo
08-29-2011, 07:30 PM
yeah thats a ripoff.

a spring compressor is cheap. like 50$ to rent from advance and then they give the cash back when you return it. everything else is just hand tools.

i just did rear neon struts in an hour the other day. both of them.

Brian

Reaper1
08-29-2011, 10:57 PM
You can't use Galant or Eclipse suspension bits? I thought that was a Mitsu based chassis?

shmedley
08-29-2011, 11:49 PM
You can't use Galant or Eclipse suspension bits? I thought that was a Mitsu based chassis?

The coupes were bases on the eclipse. The sedans were a Chrysler (cloud car) chassis

Vigo
08-30-2011, 03:14 PM
Yeah just do it yourself.

turbovanmanČ
08-30-2011, 05:02 PM
Nice blue ricer vent, :p

I charge 2 hours for the front, and 2 for the rear, so at my labour rate, roughly $200 each end.

If your in a bind, you can use the spring compressors but they really do suck. Find a local shop other than your regular one, IE alignment shop and take them your struts, I would charge around an hour to do them all if your brought them in.

Can't remember but you might have the aluminium hats in the rear, they like to corrode and don't forget you'll need an alignment.

Ondonti
08-31-2011, 07:18 AM
Is AJ still around to help deal with your trans parts etc?

I would not pay that money for suspension.

SebringLX
08-31-2011, 08:18 AM
Is AJ still around to help deal with your trans parts etc?

I would not pay that money for suspension.

Sort of, he's mostly doing Hemi Tuning now, but would do my trans again if I sent it to him. He's in NY though, so I have to pull the trans out and ship it to NY to have him do anything with it. Not worth it when it appears to just be the seal on the dif cover, and seal on the passenger side axle that are leaking. I want to have the car driveable again before Sept 23rd so I can make it to the Monster Mopar Weekend in Indianapolis.

I'm probably just going to hold off on the suspension. I don't have room in the garage to attempt that right now, still full of woodworking tools and lumber for my basement project.

SebringLX
09-02-2011, 09:16 AM
Now I have a freaking gas leak! Battery was dead, so I charged it the other night. Yesterday I go start the car, and there's gas spraying out everywhere in the engine bay! It looked like the hose between my fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. :( I wanted to let all the gas evaporate before replacing the hose and starting it again.