GLHS 937 Restoration Project

[minigts]

Now your really trying to blow up the 525

Or am I......oh who am I kidding. With this setup it's likely it won't hold up too much longer.



I wonder if anyone with a K-based car has had the control arm/frame interference problem?

Not sure. I don't think there is enough adjustment that will allow correcting this without some frame adjustments. I also have the car lowered a lot more, but from cornering with the suspension lowered even some it is going to hit. Thankfully it's just the rear part of the control arm and not very much.

[minigts]

Actually I did shift them back to "fit" and clear the side ground effects, but that was before I dropped the car. May need to set it with the washers on both sides of the eyelet and see where it sets.

[minigts]

Checked the suspension tonight, think I found the issue. The pinch bolt must not have been tight enough. Went to pull the king pin out by loosening the lower nut. Turned it and it moved about 1/8" before it had any tension on it. Got low, turned it again and saw it turning inside the knuckle. :| So I grabbed a couple of 1/2" drivers/breaker bars and gave it the old business as tight as I could. Did the test again and it didn't move this time. Hoping that was it, wasn't able to go for a test drive due to the monsoon that came through. Did both sides just to be safe.

Also test fitted the 5x100 hubs with the road race wheels and tires I got with the SCCA car. Everything fit ok, but the turn lock to lock is going to be an issue on the front GFX. I'll also have to raise the suspension 1" or so all the way around. Not sure I want to do all that out of town, so I may skip taking the stuff. But it did look cool. :)

50914

[cordes]

That does look really good. Too bad they are too wide. I guess that is where the guy was with the yellow car when he decided to make the flairs.

[minigts]

That does look really good. Too bad they are too wide. I guess that is where the guy was with the yellow car when he decided to make the flairs.

Well the main reason was to comply with the rules, which stated (states maybe still) that the tires could not have any exposed/visible part when looking from the top of the fender. He did not in fact flare anything else out, so the tires have always rubbed on the side GFXs. I was contemplating taking the ones off the yellow car, using plastidip to get them black and then just running those this coming weekend, but I think I've convinced myself that having to raise the suspension is not what I want to do and get set back up again. I do need to raise the front a tad since it lowered itself when the control arms were installed, but not much.

[cordes]

Wow, that's pretty interesting. How much ground clearance do you have right now anyway? I agree that it's a lot of work for the autocross, but those tires sure would help you out.

[Reaper1]

What size are those tires? I do agree that black steel wheels with big racing rubber on our cars looks mean as h3ll! Even if the car is all beat the living crap (roundy-round) it still looks cool! :thumb:

[minigts]

Wow, that's pretty interesting. How much ground clearance do you have right now anyway? I agree that it's a lot of work for the autocross, but those tires sure would help you out.

From the lowest point on the GFX, probably 6-8". I would need 1-2" at least to clear the fenders on turns, especially since I can't firm up the front at all. :(



What size are those tires? I do agree that black steel wheels with big racing rubber on our cars looks mean as h3ll! Even if the car is all beat the living crap (roundy-round) it still looks cool! :thumb:

I think they are 15x8x23? The wheels are a +11mm offset. A +20mm offset wheel with some widened fenders would look nice and handle like crazy, I would think. Maybe one day I will widen it or just do it on the blue Shelby Charger that sitting in the garage. It's going to get a whole new front end one day and will be RWD, so why not. :)

Would love to run these, but may just save this for the black and yellow SCCA e-production car I picked up in New Mexico.

[minigts]

Well had some issues going home, nothing AAA worthy though. We were headed out from Carlisle, just got through the toll and while I was stuck behind a slow moving dualie the other two cars took off. Well, I hadn't really gotten on this car with more than 9 psi since I got it back from Brian's shop so I turned the data logger on and ran up into 3rd gear and went WOT. After the tires quit spinning, the clutch started spinning and then something went. Backed out, rev'ed it up a bit and the clutch kept spinning, so I went easy and got up to speed. From there, every time I accelerated the car wobbled. I could smell the clutch, so I knew it was slipping. The smell was familiar when Jaren burned his at SDAC. :)

Thought I broken or bent something, but nothing underneath looked out of place. My only suspicion is the clutch broke or something. No plans to pull it to fix it as I have a 555 waiting to go in. So when the time is right, going to drop the trans and pull the motor and start on the list of project items I have for the car and see where I get. Pics of whatever is wrong when I find it, but still assuming the clutch. Not leaking any fluids and no broken CV shaft boots AND no noise. The trans and even the clutch are free of any noise, but given the wobble on acceleration, that is my hunch. I did check the motor mounts too, they are all good.

[cordes]

Sounds like a warning shot.

[minigts]

Sounds like a warning shot.

haha Gary called it a fuse, I say you are both correct.

[Turbo3Iroc]

What clutch is in the car?

[minigts]

What clutch is in the car?

Oh just a stock TII clutch from Auto Zone. I am waiting to install the 555 before I get a real clutch. I have some good axles (I think), but that may be the next upgrade for the car. Hopefully I won't find out the hard way. :)

[Turbo3Iroc]

The off balance could be from disc material breaking off causing the inbalance. Glad you made it home. We intended on going to Carlisle but had to miss it.

[Reaper1]

Maybe one of the clutch hub springs popped out. It seems that isn't as uncommon as most think it would be.

[cordes]

My money is also on the friction material breaking apart. I've seen that on a bunch of cars that can rev well.

Also, I can't help but laugh when thinking about the fact that this car still has a 525 in it with a stock TII clutch.

[minigts]

The off balance could be from disc material breaking off causing the inbalance. Glad you made it home. We intended on going to Carlisle but had to miss it.

Man sorry you missed it, had a lot of fun. I'm glad I made it back as well. I gotta say, I had fun with it on the autocross and can't believe it made it through the abuse for 6 laps, 3 at a time at WOT. Guess it was ready to go after all that. :)



Maybe one of the clutch hub springs popped out. It seems that isn't as uncommon as most think it would be.

I thought about that and it certainly could have. But I haven't heard any noise so far, so thinking it's broken up or something just not sure what. Will be a few months before I can diagnose it though.



My money is also on the friction material breaking apart. I've seen that on a bunch of cars that can rev well.

Also, I can't help but laugh when thinking about the fact that this car still has a 525 in it with a stock TII clutch.

hehe The whole time I was doing the autocross, I was just waiting for it to do something. Turned the boost up to 22 psi (4.11 volts on a 3 bar MAP sensor). I thought I had it set at 15, but my homemade boost controller that I did in a few hours wasn't terribly accurate I guess. Sure was a lot of fun though. With good tires, I will need a solid trans. I seriously doubt anything in that 525 will hold up much longer if I apply any real torque to it.

[Reeves]

Like :thumb:

[minigts]

Alright, well I have been driving the car, babying it just to get around until I get the title for the Shelby Lancer squared away with the state of CA. Kept thinking that the clutch really can't be it because I don't have any issues shifting or felt like a broken clutch would cause issues. So I jacked it up and checked the trans mount. Sure enough.....


51498


Going to order an El Cheapo for the time being and get a set of the Poly Bushing ones.


And seriously, what's up with the attachments?

[cordes]

The gallery works still. You can upload it there and then link to it. It's an extra step, but it's also what I've prefered for a long time so for me things are right again.

[82 Rampage]

Yeah, that might cause some serious vibration.

[Oggie Fisher]

If you don't mind divulging, what are you replacing your Corbeau seats with?

[minigts]

I have a lead on some Recaro seats and some fabric that will match the pattern I have with the car, black and charcoal. I actually like the seats, but the Recaros would be nicere to have, they are factory seats and the color scheme is just what I want. The only thing I haven't decided is how to route the 5th belt. Corbeau has pass throughs in the seat and I don't know what they are called to get a generic pair. May be able to get Corbeau to sell me a set or something. That is the intent though.

[minigts]

Wow, been a while since I updated this thread. Since the last post:

Around the time of the last post, took the car down and pulled the suspension. Had a broken piece that had to be replaced, so the car went up on jacks. Pulled the suspension and seats, sold both and replaced with new BC's with adjustable rebound and compression (I think those are the correct terms) from Rich and got the Recaros in from Vic, both out in Phoenix!

Recently made a trade with DJ for his seat covers that he got from Harry (also in Phoenix), sent him mine that came with the seats from Vic so DJ can use the pattern to do some sewing magic for his own.

Bought some replacement foam for the lower side bolsters from a place in the UK. They weren't cheap, but they are NEARLY identical to the stock ones. Really need the upper side ones as well, but no one seems to make the foam, specifically for that seat type, the LSB series.

Fast forward to this last week.

Got the suspension installed, front and rear. During the time I used some of this stuff I had seen from a friend that removes rust completely from anything and man, what a difference it made. Took the rear shock tower retainers and dropped them in, left them overnight and they came out SPOTLESS. Immediately cleaned and primed/painted them black, installed the rear shocks and then started on the front.

The fronts were a little more work. The fronts are the ER type that have the external reservoir for the rebound (I think). My wheels didn't fit the way it sat, so had to make an adjustment which was easy and everything else just bolted right up. Pics to come later.

Right now I'm working with the seat bottom brackets to mount with the stock ones and had to make one MINOR change for the mount hole on the back of the track, but they were designed for the stock brackets, so the curve of the Recaro mounting bracket and the stock rail is dead on. Pics below.

Need to get the seat covers dyed. Tried this already, but polyester does not take the standard dye, you have to use disperse dye, which I'm sure everyone other than me knows this to be true. :-| That being said, the proper dye has been ordered and should be here next week and I can get those done and the new bottoms installed, the seats put back together. The side bolster on the driver's one needs some attention, so I may just buy some of this foam I found locally, cover the bolster with about 1/2" foam with the same density and put the covers on and go for the time being. I'd love to rebuild the uppers with some of this foam and have new foam all around, but the seats are CRAZY easy to take apart, so I think I can just do it when I'm ready and remove the uppers fairly easily. Seriously, took me all of about 10 minutes per seat to disassemble.

As soon as the seats are ready, car is coming off blocks, new battery will be installed and I'll fire it up for the first time since November some time. Will be great to hear it run again. :D Plan to try this new Lithium Ion battery that weighs like 3lbs! Hopefully it will be enough to run the car. Don't plan on driving it that much in the winter and I park indoors and down here it doesn't get too cold. Haven't FULLY decided to go with it, but checking around to see if these types of batteries last, can sustain what is needed for a car, the charging capabilities, etc.

54808 54807 54809

[minigts]

Got all the seat tracks configured and today I got the seat covers dyed, properly. Tried using the stuff that wasn't made for polyester and just so you know, it won't remotely touch it. Used this stuff that helps the dye stick to whatever and MAN does that work. Almost everything that touched the dye was dyed! Thankfully my sink in my laundry room can be messed up, so no loss.

Seat covers look SO much better now. The fabric is still a little worn and rough feeling, but the color looks great compared to what it looked like. Didn't get any before and after, so you'll just have to take my word for it.

54895 54896

[minigts]

Suspension is installed, haven't gotten back down on the ground yet. Need to get the seats in since they bolt from the bottom and I don't feel like crawling under the car when it's perfectly accessible on stands. :) Can't wait to adjust these for height and comfort and drive the car! Been so long, looking forward to it.

55093 55096
55097 55098 55095 55094


Seats look really good, but the dye isn't sticking. Apparently polyester is one of the hardest fabrics to dye since the color needs a LOT of heat to soak into the fibers. It doesn't rub off THAT much, but over a 12 hour trip I plan to have some towels or something laying over the seats. Eventually will recover them, guess I'm just going to have to deal with it for the time being. Getting some foam to overlay the upright sections and then I'll be putting these back together and in the car, should be this weekend.

55099 55100

[2.216VTurbo]

Looking good JTWH:clap: What rate springs did you go with, I looked back a dozen posts or so to review and you were mostly just covering the seats and stuff;)

[cordes]

It's getting closer to the road again. I'm pretty pumped to see it in action again. It should be a great trip with the Recaros and new suspension.

[minigts]

Looking good JTWH:clap: What rate springs did you go with, I looked back a dozen posts or so to review and you were mostly just covering the seats and stuff;)

7000K I think? It's sorta in the middle, but with the adjustable compression and rebound and with SO much adjustment, it should be a good ride. You coming, I assume? ;)



It's getting closer to the road again. I'm pretty pumped to see it in action again. It should be a great trip with the Recaros and new suspension.

I hope so. The Lancer rides really great with them, assuming this will be great with the the tubular front control arms. :D Should be Friday or so when I'll have it on the road.

[cordes]

525! 525! 525! 525!

[minigts]

525! 525! 525! 525!

hahaha It will hold together. :)

[minigts]

Mainden voyage since last November was good, but the splash shield under the vent dropped and started hitting the timing belt and cut it pretty bad on the side, so I'm going to change that out before SDAC. Car sits much lower than before and I will need to adjust the rear just a tad and then get it aligned. Car rides great too. Everything is on full soft right now, I may stiffen it up a tad, but so far the ride is excellent!

55220

[cordes]

Wow, that looks pretty awesome. How's the suspension geometry looking in the front? Any plans to take a spare transmission?

[minigts]

Wow, that looks pretty awesome. How's the suspension geometry looking in the front? Any plans to take a spare transmission?

It's not as parallel as I'd like for it to be, but I plan to raise the front just a tad to balance it in the rear. Overall it drives and rides great and no shaft binding. And no plans for a spare transmission, that would only ensure that my 525 will come apart at an inconvenient time. :) No spare, it will hold together. Bring a spare, and I'll be in the parking lot doing a swap for sure. :thumb:

[cordes]

It's not as parallel as I'd like for it to be, but I plan to raise the front just a tad to balance it in the rear. Overall it drives and rides great and no shaft binding. And no plans for a spare transmission, that would only ensure that my 525 will come apart at an inconvenient time. :) No spare, it will hold together. Bring a spare, and I'll be in the parking lot doing a swap for sure. :thumb:

I've got a special salute to your 525 planned. I'm pretty sure it'll hit the air after SDAC this year. This is the 525 that could though so I wouldn't be surprised if it took longer.

[contraption22]

Car rides great too. Everything is on full soft right now, I may stiffen it up a tad, but so far the ride is excellent!



My kidneys are still recovering from the last leg of the return ride from Indiana, along the crappiest stretch of PA turnpike, 2 years ago. :)

[minigts]

My kidneys are still recovering from the last leg of the return ride from Indiana, along the crappiest stretch of PA turnpike, 2 years ago. :)

You were asleep most of the time, how do you know. :)

[contraption22]

I was not asleep. I was knocked unconscious

[cordes]

I was not asleep. I was knocked unconscious

Hate to break it to you, but that wasn't from the rough riding suspension.

[minigts]

I was not asleep. I was knocked unconscious


Hate to break it to you, but that wasn't from the rough riding suspension.

Oh my gosh. This is going to get ugly. hahaha

[2.216VTurbo]

Oh my gosh. This is going to get ugly. hahaha

Reminds me of a funny story from work a couple years ago, I used to sell this spine fixation device that was inserted into the anterior spine but from posteriorly thru an incision literally 1 inch from the very last part of your GI tract. During insertion the Doc would use a large surgical mallet to drive the device into the spine. One day, during a particularly aggressive insertion on a large male patient with really tough bone, Doc is banging away with the heaviest stainless steel mallet the OR had(like a 3lb relic) and a salty old nurse walks in and says, "Wow, that guy is really taking an arse pounding!":wow1: everyone in OR busted up laughing:lol: Might be some parallel here?:p

[minigts]

Reminds me of a funny story from work a couple years ago, I used to sell this spine fixation device that was inserted into the anterior spine but from posteriorly thru an incision literally 1 inch from the very last part of your GI tract. During insertion the Doc would use a large surgical mallet to drive the device into the spine. One day, during a particularly aggressive insertion on a large male patient with really tough bone, Doc is banging away with the heaviest stainless steel mallet the OR had(like a 3lb relic) and a salty old nurse walks in and says, "Wow, that guy is really taking an arse pounding!":wow1: everyone in OR busted up laughing:lol: Might be some parallel here?:p

Thank goodness Alan saw this.... :-|

Getting the car aligned this week. Been doing some spirited driving and MAN I missed this car! Going to raise the front a tad and then take it to the shop in the morning. Need to fix a shimmy issue, may be a CV shaft. Some of it was the broken suspension from before, some from the motor mounts, but those have all been changed out and it's still there a little. But even with that, it feels great and handles like it's on rails....with old tires. :( I need to get something more sticky I think.

[minigts]

Got a chance to take the car to an autocross the other day, ran great, tires were the biggest weakness. Still hadn't gotten it aligned, but wasn't terrible on the track. I think the best time was a miata that was in the 49 second range, ran a 52.4xx my best clean time (no cones). Looking to get some tires for the SDAC autocross so I can be somewhat competitive with the fast guys from last year. Glad I got the time in though, sooooo much fun pushing this car to the limits.

Many props from the guys at the track too. Most loved the sound of the car, gave the credit to Slowe Speed for the header and art work under the hood and props to Cordes for the paint job. :thumb: Ready for SDAC now!

[cordes]

Got a chance to take the car to an autocross the other day, ran great, tires were the biggest weakness. Still hadn't gotten it aligned, but wasn't terrible on the track. I think the best time was a miata that was in the 49 second range, ran a 52.4xx my best clean time (no cones). Looking to get some tires for the SDAC autocross so I can be somewhat competitive with the fast guys from last year. Glad I got the time in though, sooooo much fun pushing this car to the limits.

Many props from the guys at the track too. Most loved the sound of the car, gave the credit to Slowe Speed for the header and art work under the hood and props to Cordes for the paint job. :thumb: Ready for SDAC now!

What's your tire size Jon?

[minigts]

Current is 225/35-17 but willing to go smaller in wheel size.

[minigts]

This is what I've been looking at.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Ecsta+V700&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=14WR7EV70A&tab=Sizes

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hoosier&tireModel=R7&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=24ZR7R7&tab=Sizes

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hoosier&tireModel=R6&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=24ZR7R6&tab=Sizes

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+RA1&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=34ZR7RA1&tab=Sizes

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R888&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=34WR7R888&tab=Sizes

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+RR&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=34ZR7PXRR&tab=Sizes

[spiro440]

Hoosier R7 first choice. Run better when cool. When autocrossing every hundreth counts! I have tried the R888 for the last few years which are good tires but not up there. This year I ran the RA1 and by far better grip. (or was it because of my new BC Units??)Buddy who does club racing in a 944 likes them just as much as the r6. He even won a race with 10 year old RA1 this year!?

[cordes]

Are you going to drive on these in the rain, or cart them to events and change them at the event? Are you all about performance while you're using these or do they need to look right also?

[minigts]

Plan to bring the tires to the event. Really would like to get another pair of wheels eventually and have a full set of dailys and a set of autocross.

[cordes]

It looks like the RPF1s are only going to be available in your bolt pattern with a 16 or 17" wheel. I would go for the shortest tire possible along with the stickiest tire possible. Are you looking to actually compete in a class? You'll need to let the rules of your class dictate the tire you run. A lot of autocross and other like events are now at a 100 minimum DOT treadwear rating for competition in some classes.

[minigts]

I'm not worried about classes, I just like to run the track. Need to make a decison by tomorrow so I can get the tires in and mounted before we leave this weekend. Trying to keep the cost down if I can, too.

[cordes]

So are you putting them on your current wheels then, or buying new ones? The Sparco wheels that tire rack offers are only a little over 100 bucks each, and not all that heavy. They are selling Kosi wheels again too, but I didn't call and ask about those.

[minigts]

I have 6 RPF1s and was planning to get a pair of whatever tire that makes sense and isn't crazy expensive and putting them on the two extra wheels I have. However, if I can get a tire/wheel combo that is close to the price for just one tire, I'd do that. I don't mind going smaller overall, just didn't want to have to buy 2 wheels as well as the tires. But I need to look at the long run cost of owning 17" wheels and the tires that go on them vs. a pair of 15-16" wheels with tires and replacement cost of those tires. A tire lasting and being good for 10 years is promising, although I probably wouldn't keep a set that long. :p

[cordes]

I had a reply, but it disappeared. If you think you can get a 235/40r17 under the car that would be pretty sweet. Wider and much, much better rubber will be crazy. If you're going to take them to the track only, I see no reason not to go with the wildest tires possible. Of course, you may not want to take them off. I had some barely legal Dunlop tires on the Omni back when and it was nuts. Especially in the rain...

[minigts]

What is the stock tire size? 205/50-15 or 205/60-15? I mean, what size should I be comparing overall diameter to? I've been going by the 205/50 size.

[cordes]

Yeah, the Chargers came with a 205/50r15 in 86 and 87 I think. I thought they were originally a 195/50.

[minigts]

205/60-15 24.7
205/50-15 23.1
225/35-17 23.2
215/40-17 23.8
225/40-17 24.1
235/40-17 24.4

For the best size, I may be restricted to the Kuhmo. Cost is right and overall diameter is closest. Everything else (in smaller sizes + wheels) will cost more than I can spend right now. A 15" tire in just about any of the brands is pretty much close to the same as the 17". The 235/40s are about 1.2" taller, which I know is MUCH taller and given I need to get these ordered, I may be stuck with the Kuhmos for now. :\ The overall width of a 235/40 though is only 1/3" wider, not sure how they will fit or rub. GRRRRRR!!!!

[supercrackerbox]

Yeah, the Chargers came with a 205/50r15 in 86 and 87 I think. I thought they were originally a 195/50.

195/50 was on the Omnis; Chargers got the 205/50s.

[minigts]

Ok, getting Kuhmo 215/40s. With the size and price (for now), it's the best option. the RA1s only have 205 and then the tires get too tall. I only plan to use them for track, so we'll see what happens. :\

[minigts]

Ordered tires yesterday, they arrived today. Wow.

[Reeves]

Got them on yet?



































































































How about now?

[cordes]

That was fast delivery. Do you have them mounted yet?

[minigts]

Today, its happening today. Hoping to get the car aligned as well today.

[cordes]

Sweet. Have you mounted them yet? How did it go?

[168glhs1986]

Mounted, balanced and 4000 miles on them already. It's been a busy morning.

Seriously thou I haven't been reading this thread much. But I hope you didn't go with the Kuhmo 215/40s.

[minigts]

Had to, no real options unless I went with 15" wheels. Looked around and found one or two options that may have worked but it would have been arojnd twice what I paid for just the two tires. Trust me, I pined over it for at least two days trying to convince myself what the best option was. If they stick better than the Yokos, it will be worth it. I read about one guy who ran them at a road course and had terrible wear, to the point of sections cming out, but be was the only one. All others complained about driving in daily conditions that these tires won't see. We'll find out Sunday. :)

[minigts]

Getting it aligned. Talked to the guy doing it and told him why I was. He said, "Didn't you do this for the same thing last year?". :)

55409

[cordes]

Getting it aligned. Talked to the guy doing it and told him why I was. He said, "Didn't you do this for the same thing last year?". :)

55409

Mine is on the rack right now too. The guy working on it isn't too happy with how the adjustments have to be made.

[turboshad]

Tell him this year is different. Last year you brought a Canadian. :)

[csxtra]

It's amazing how an autocross brings out the alignments.

I aligned my CSX last week...twice (I found the bad inner tie rod end after I finished setting the toe):banghead:

[RoadWarrior222]

You know what I'd do for autocross though, and a roadtrip to get there... I'd set it neutral as I like it, then threadlock (only) the locking nuts, then figure out exactly how much of a turn each side it took to get me about 1.5 toe out.... then do that again when I got there. Otherwise, very twitchy and tire burny on highway, or, yer typical understeery fwd on autocross.

[minigts]

Well the timing belt mod was only temporary, got the new belt installed. Also had an issue with the power steering pump rubbing the header. Which really sucks because I know it didn't help the header look any better, but the header won, so that is good. Thankfully I had a line made a while back that took some of the length off the line that goes into the pump and it now clears it by about 3/16". Don't have a before and after, but I'm sure you get the idea. :)

55583 55582

Took the drip tray off and trimmed the section that made the belt mod, I'll just have to watch it going forward to see if it touches at all. Besides the flat and massive bolt in the tires on the way back, the car did fine coming back from SDAC. Needs a bath, but no issues to speak of. Thankfully the PS line went on the way home, so no real problems to speak of and everything is now fixed. :)

Also got the adjustable cam gear installed. Not sure if it will help immediately, but when I do some tuning later with more boost, I'm expecting to make some adjustments to see if I can squeeze any more out of the car. Still have a shimmy, assuming one of the shafts inner tripod broke again. Probably just going to wait until I get the 555 installed, which will come with a new clutch, new shafts and a rod shifter conversion.

Forgot, swapped out the pulleys with some that didn't have the AC track and the water pump one that wasn't messed up from something I did years ago. :p

[minigts]

Finally got the Zeitronix deal squared away with the boost conversion from volts to PSI. It's off, so not sure what values to use for the calculations. I looked up some things online to do the calculations, seems CLOSE, but the value in vacuum doesn't calculate to what I saw on the mechanical gauge. Which, if this gauge is accurate, this motor is still nice and pulling great vacuum after about 2 years, especially the way I drive it. :)

55630 55631

[supercrackerbox]

I wonder if Autometer has an end-user calibration procedure for it. I tried contacting VDO about the one in my car, and they said they're calibrated at the factory and unfortunately that seems to be it. I guess you could always put a vacuum pump on it and compare readings.

[minigts]

I wonder if Autometer has an end-user calibration procedure for it. I tried contacting VDO about the one in my car, and they said they're calibrated at the factory and unfortunately that seems to be it. I guess you could always put a vacuum pump on it and compare readings.

That's a good question. I have the voltage readings I can use as well and see what that should be vs. what the gauge says. I know it's roughly .63 volts at idle, but I don't have a calculation chart that shows what that should read. I saw one spreadsheet that read roughly -8.75 vacuum, not sure if that would be PSI, assuming it is. Not sure what that would translate to inches of vacuum though.

[cordes]

That's a good question. I have the voltage readings I can use as well and see what that should be vs. what the gauge says. I know it's roughly .63 volts at idle, but I don't have a calculation chart that shows what that should read. I saw one spreadsheet that read roughly -8.75 vacuum, not sure if that would be PSI, assuming it is. Not sure what that would translate to inches of vacuum though.

Double the in.Hg to get PSI. That would be 17.5"hg That's pretty darn close to what it should be at idle. Do you have the stock cam in there?

[minigts]

I have a roller cam, assuming it's an 88 but I don't know for sure.

[cordes]

OK. I was just wondering because most of the performance cams won't generally pull the same amount of vacuum at idle.

[minigts]

A cam is one of the next engine upgrades I plan to make. Right now it seems to run really well with what's is in it. Plan to pull the motor and trans by the end of the year to get the 555 in and paint the engine bay. I may also make some routing changes and do the brake lines differently, as well as add in the electronic speedo that Reeves got.

[contraption22]

Can we start a GoFundMe to get Jon a mechanical boost gauge?

[cordes]

Can we start a GoFundMe to get Jon a mechanical boost gauge?

I don't know. I still say you're not measuring boost unless the reading is in volts.

[Aries_Turbo]

I don't know. I still say you're not measuring boost unless the reading is in volts.

lol......

[rx2mazda]

Can we start a GoFundMe to get Jon a mechanical boost gauge?


I don't know. I still say you're not measuring boost unless the reading is in volts.


lol......

lmao..

[minigts]

It's now a way of life running boost measured in volts. :D Had a setback the other day. Heard some sound coming from underneath the car, couldn't make it out. Got home and went to jack the car up and the welds on the muffler broke on the outlet side. :-\ Plan to pull it off from the v-band back and take it somewhere to have it fixed, maybe get a new muffler. Had a nice Borla on it, may just go with that again, but plan to add a hanger to it closer to the muffler, which is why if broke, I think. There were only the ones up where the v band was and maybe only one more before the side exit. Probably wouldn't hurt to have a hanger before and after the muffler.

[Reaper1]

Was it a stainless steel casing on that muffler? I LOVE my Borla, but I had some issues keep a hanger on the dumb thing. I broke it off probably 3 times. I know the last time it actually ripped a hole in the case, but the shop I took it to was able to get it back together and I haven't had a problem since. I think part of my issue was I was trying to weld on a mild steel hanger onto a stainless case with very questionable welding technique and flux core wire. For my next exhaust I am going to support the weight of the entire muffler with a strap around the whole thing like what a lot of motorcycles do.

[minigts]

I don't know if it's stainless or not. I know it rusted off, from what I can tell. I want to disconnect the whole thing and drop it to see if it's worth fixing or if I should just have it redone. Maybe I could do aluminum or something? May just need to get another muffler.

[cordes]

Can you stick a magnet to it?

[Reaper1]

Not all grades of stainless are non-magnetic (or I should say magnetically challenged? LOL). It depends on the actual alloy make-up. The more nickle, the less magnetic. The more nickle, the more "stainless". So, that's why you can find stainless steel boat propellers that are rusty! ;)

[minigts]

Great information to know! I haven't checked to see if it is, maybe next week I will address the issue. Driving the Lancer for the time being. Finally got it somewhat running good, but I have an adjustable cam gear and am playing with the best adjustment for it. Tried timing it twice and still don't feel it is running as good as it can.

[supercrackerbox]

At work, we use 409 and 308, and they are very magnetic.

[cordes]

Not all grades of stainless are non-magnetic (or I should say magnetically challenged? LOL). It depends on the actual alloy make-up. The more nickle, the less magnetic. The more nickle, the more "stainless". So, that's why you can find stainless steel boat propellers that are rusty! ;)


At work, we use 409 and 308, and they are very magnetic.

Very true. Most stainless used in firearms is magnetic, but I'm not sure the grade they use. I've found that with most SS I've used in the garage that there is at least a slight difference between the pull that a normal steel would have and what SS will do. It's actually how I test to see if the exhaust valves I have are turbo or non-turbo valves. The turbo valves are still magnetic, but much less so than the TBI/carb valves.

[2.216VTurbo]

Almost all spine screws/rods used to be 316SS(not magnetic at all) but it turned out that a small percentage of patients were allergic to the Nickel used to alloy it. It would take months to happen but you could look at an xray and the areas of bone in contact with the screws would actually start to resorb and lose density. It looks like there is a 'halo' around each screw. So tho they still use some 316, most implant companies and surgeons are using Titanium now for screws and rods. Intervertibral spacers and cages are mostly plastics(PEEK) or ceramics (Hydroxyappatites) although one of my best products is made from Tantalum in an open pore sponge lattuce to allow the bone to grow in/on/around/thru it. Works like a champ and so far, we've not seen a single patient allergic to it:thumb:

[minigts]

Well the car is sorta down for the winter. The 555 is just about ready to go in, finally found the intermediate half shaft, just need a u-joint, two shafts and a 555 rod conversion and it will be ready to go!

Plan to get the motor out so I can paint the engine bay and finally get that done. I have a litany of things I want to do to the car, unfortunately it will be a while before I get most of them done. Ranges from hood pins to push button ignition to a custom fuel cell and overall fuel system and SOOO many other things. REALLY wish I could get the house sold to have some cash on hand to do some things, but that would also leave me with no garage or work space. It's a trade off I want to live with, but only temporarily. Been driving the Lancer and I still do love that car. It really does have good balance, as Alan has stated to me many times. :) Hopefully I'll be able to mess with some things before next "season" and be able to take it to some track days and get better at AutoX. Can't keep finishing in 6-8th place. :-\

[contraption22]

What's an intermediate shaft?

[cordes]

What's an intermediate shaft?

It's probably about as good as hood pins.

[turboshad]

What's an intermediate shaft?

It's between an amateur shaft and a pro shaft.

[2.216VTurbo]

Yeah, and how does push button ignition help you go faster around the course:p

[cordes]

Yeah, and how does push button ignition help you go faster around the course:p

He just wants to install this because he loses his keys so often.

[minigts]

Sooooo glad to have such fine people like yourselves as friends. hahahaha

[contraption22]

It's probably about as good as hood pins.

I think he just wants to use it so there is something else to worry about breaking once the 525 is gone.

[minigts]

I think he just wants to use it so there is something else to worry about breaking once the 525 is gone.

Are you running unequal length in the GLMF? Are they holding up well with the power that car is putting out currently?

[contraption22]

They are doing an excellent job of keeping the trans fluid from leaking onto the garage floor

[Reeves]

He just wants to install this because he loses his keys so often.

But how will this pushbutton start help him from locking the keys in the car?


Are you running unequal length in the GLMF? Are they holding up well with the power that car is putting out currently?

Unequal FTMFW

[minigts]

But how will this pushbutton start help him from locking the keys in the car?



Unequal FTMFW

I was just messin' with Mike. :) And I've done good, only locked my keys in my car once in the last 2 SDACs. :D

[Pat]

Unequal FTMFW

^^^ What HERO said ^^^

[Reeves]

He just wants to install this because he loses his keys so often.


Are you running unequal length in the GLMF? Are they holding up well with the power that car is putting out currently?


^^^ What HERO said ^^^

^^^ What BIG DEAL said ^^^

[cordes]

I was just messin' with Mike. :) And I've done good, only locked my keys in my car once in the last 2 SDACs. :D

Get the blue car back on the road so that my key which fits the pass side door will get you back in whenever you need in there.

[minigts]

If only I had the money, if only.....

[cordes]

If only I had the money, if only.....

In all seriousness, I know how badly you want that car back on the road. It'll happen, and when it does I'll be there to tuck and roll out into a guy's driveway to lose my lunch.

[minigts]

In all seriousness, I know how badly you want that car back on the road. It'll happen, and when it does I'll be there to tuck and roll out into a guy's driveway to lose my lunch.

hahaha man, it will be a day not soon enough. That is my first car I ever bought, had it since I was in high school.

[cordes]

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8530/28019752353_686e80308a_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JG1ybv)Shelby GLHS 937 (https://flic.kr/p/JG1ybv)

[2.216VTurbo]

Awe C'mon, no air under the passenger rear??

[cordes]

Awe C'mon, no air under the passenger rear??

The turns I was able to shoot at during the Tack Night in America event weren't tight enough to get that unfortunately. Of course, with this car it's actually a question of no air under the inside tires.

[minigts]

Well it's about that time to post some updates. Another year has gone by, but this one is different, granted I am cramming all the work I need to get done JUST before SDAC. There are some things I wanted to get done, but didn't realize I would be able to or get the parts necessary to complete them. One of the bigger task I'm undertaking is installing the 555 and retiring the 525. It's been a long time coming, but this year is the year. So far I have pulled everything but the transmission, waiting to get the clutch (that I haven't ordered yet) but I will need to turn the flywheel and change out the crank seal, so probably need to get that done sooner than later so I can just get it done and back together.

Aside from that, I have also decided to upgrade the cooling system with a custom unit that will mount under the radiator support that is also somewhat wider and has much larger end tanks and it is made of aluminum. Got the mocked up version done and it fits perfectly! He let me take it home and check clearances, all checked out. Keeping the stock lines where they are and it will have a custom shroud and fan all part of the package. I'm also upgrading the injectors and fuel pump, +40s and a 255 Walbro. The +20s and stock GLHS pump and a tune yielded 243hp and 250 ft/lbs of torque (between two dynos it was 248/250) and the HP curve was still on the rise when he shut it down at 5200 rpm, so hoping it will yield a little more.

I also decided to remove the PS pump and lines and just loop the two so I can just keep the power assist rack on the car and not swap to the manual unit yet. I've had so many leak issues with it and have been driving without it for 8 months or so, that I don't even really notice it anymore. I can and do sense the road a little better (I think) and it helps me with road course and autocross events. I did find some play in the control arm spherical rod ends, so got a set coming to replace those as well. Last step to complete before SDAC with regards to steering is a good alignment and I'll be set. :thumb:

Last thing I decided to treat myself to is a new set of gauges. They are crazy high quality, made in the US and best of all, will require almost zero modification to the stock cluster to mount. I will have to make a plate that spans the entire cluster, but no cutting or tearing up the stock unit. Can't wait to get them in, but going to have to install the new sensors that came with it for oil pressure and water temp, the rest will just wire right up. I'll try and post some pictures as I go along, but I'm running out of time so not sure how much I'll post before the show in 4.5 weeks and counting. :$

Can't change the orientation of the gauges, they are correct in the folder and not sure why they are upside down.

60787 60788 60789 60790

6079160792

60793 60794

60795

[Reaper1]

Who made the gauges? Those are beautiful!

By the looks of the dyno you need to wrap that thing out to at least 7k!

[cordes]

Who made the gauges? Those are beautiful!

By the looks of the dyno you need to wrap that thing out to at least 7k!

Menegon head with Slowe custom exhaust manifold etc., etc. You're dead on there to say the least.

[minigts]

Who made the gauges? Those are beautiful!

By the looks of the dyno you need to wrap that thing out to at least 7k!

Gauges are from SpeedHut, but they are completely customizable. The word Shelby on the speedo is just a text option. I could have put the CS logo or the SDAC logo on any of the faces of the gauges and they would have printed them. BTW, notice the tach runs out to 8K. :D

Had to stop due to a lack of fuel, so after I get the +40s and the fuel pump upgraded, I plan to take it back to the dyno to see what it will do. It was still rising at 5200RPM, so hoping to squeeze 260 out of it with the current setup, which is what Brian mentioned with a stock roller cam. I have plans to upgrade the cam too and then do a test to see the gains over the entire curve. My goal, albeit potentially unrealistic is to produce 270 hp at 15 PSI. I was more than happy with the what it did, but if it can do a little more I want to see what that is. :)



Menegon head with Slowe custom exhaust manifold etc., etc. You're dead on there to say the least.

That's it! Hoping to add more to the build soon! The 555 will just provide a little more reliability to the power that will be put down.

[wheming]

Ambitious projects in the remaining time before SDAC.
Way to go!
Did you say cam upgrade? ;)

I really like SpeedHut's offering of gauge products. I'm using there Revolution Digital line for some supplemental gauges. And i would really like to redo the van dash with full gauge replacement. I need to order an oil pressure gauge because tired of seeing my stock one at zero!

[turboshad]

BTW, notice the tach runs out to 8K. :D

I was going to ask why it only goes to 8. Nice looking guages, should look sharp in your car though the shiny faces aren't going to match your exterior. ;)

[minigts]

Ambitious projects in the remaining time before SDAC.
Way to go!
Did you say cam upgrade? ;)

I really like SpeedHut's offering of gauge products. I'm using there Revolution Digital line for some supplemental gauges. And i would really like to redo the van dash with full gauge replacement. I need to order an oil pressure gauge because tired of seeing my stock one at zero!

I ordered the R5 cam from TU along with the clutch I need. Don't NEED the cam, but really...I do. :) Wasn't planning on installing it before SDAC, but I may end up doing it as I wait for the clutch and I have to pull the head to get the trans out.



I was going to ask why it only goes to 8. Nice looking guages, should look sharp in your car though the shiny faces aren't going to match your exterior. ;)

Well I could have gone with 10k RPM, but the needle would typically never really move that much daily driving. Heh

Got the radiator back with the shroud and fan. Not much to see different and I should have gotten better comparison pics, but here it is. I will post a better pic of the side by side that gives a better visual of the thickness difference between the two.

Some pictures shouldn't be sideways, must be the upload interface.

60816 60817 60818 60820

[cordes]

That rad looks awesome. I don't see any cooling problems in your future.

[86Shelby]

I ordered the R5 cam from TU along with the clutch I need. Don't NEED the cam, but really...I do. :) Wasn't planning on installing it before SDAC, but I may end up doing it as I wait for the clutch and I have to pull the head to get the trans out.

Whoa, whoa, whoa, there good buddy. Pull the head to do get the trans out? Why?

[minigts]

Got the gauges mounted to the stock cluster. Need a few minor adjustments, but should work nicely. Got the wiring done as well and when I get back to my house I plan to take care of the sensor wiring and clean up the little that needs it for the sub-harness. The second pic marks the spots I had to remove to get the gauges in. The others show how tight the clearance is, but it clears nonetheless. :)

60915

60914

60911

60912

60913

60916

[cordes]

Those look awesome. Nice work to say the least.

[minigts]

Those look awesome. Nice work to say the least.

Thanks Brian. I wasn't sure how it would turn out, but better than anticipated and close to what I had hoped. The first picture I just rested the bezel over it, but when it's secured correctly, the tach needs a slight adjustment up and over to the left. Interestingly enough, I believe there is a slight curve to the gauges from center. When I set the aluminum plate against it, there was a low spot in the middle and realized there was a slight curve. The clutch will be in this week, so I plan to go out to where my car is and do some more wiring in the dash and redo some other places.

Clutch should arrive Saturday and I got the flywheel turned and my starter rebuilt. Thankfully there is a company in town that does both and had them done in one day for about $115. Probably could have gotten the starter for less, but these guys are local, been in the business for a while and have turned a flywheel or two for me before, always do good work. Also got the heim connectors replaced for the driver's side A arm that had some slop in them, but they changed the design a little and there is more spacing than before. I'll have to get some washers to bridge the size difference, maybe I'll hit up DJ for some larger washers. ;)

Things to do:


Get crank seal replaced while the transmission is out
Get flywheel installed
Get clutch installed
Get big 4ss 555 transmission installed
Get motor mounts installed
Install the head
Install the starter
Install the drive shafts
Fill transmission with fluid!
Install the turbo
Get the K frame back in and rack mounted
Install new radiator
Finish wiring the dash for the new gauges
Finish everything else and set the timing on the car



That's a lot to do, but hopefully I'll be able to knock most of the bigger items knocked out Sunday and have small things to take care of another day. But I'm running out of time and want to get everything finished this next week so I can focus on getting things loaded for SDAC. Got lots to carry with me to the event and really can't wait to get there!

[2.216VTurbo]

Thanks Brian. I wasn't sure how it would turn out, but better than anticipated and close to what I had hoped. The first picture I just rested the bezel over it, but when it's secured correctly, the tach needs a slight adjustment up and over to the left. Interestingly enough, I believe there is a slight curve to the gauges from center. When I set the aluminum plate against it, there was a low spot in the middle and realized there was a slight curve. The clutch will be in this week, so I plan to go out to where my car is and do some more wiring in the dash and redo some other places.

Clutch should arrive Saturday and I got the flywheel turned and my starter rebuilt. Thankfully there is a company in town that does both and had them done in one day for about $115. Probably could have gotten the starter for less, but these guys are local, been in the business for a while and have turned a flywheel or two for me before, always do good work. Also got the heim connectors replaced for the driver's side A arm that had some slop in them, but they changed the design a little and there is more spacing than before. I'll have to get some washers to bridge the size difference, maybe I'll hit up DJ for some larger washers. ;)

Things to do:


Get crank seal replaced while the transmission is out
Get flywheel installed
Get clutch installed
Get big 4ss 555 transmission installed
Get motor mounts installed
Install the head
Install the starter
Install the drive shafts
Fill transmission with fluid!
Install the turbo
Get the K frame back in and rack mounted
Install new radiator
Finish wiring the dash for the new gauges
Finish everything else and set the timing on the car



That's a lot to do, but hopefully I'll be able to knock most of the bigger items knocked out Sunday and have small things to take care of another day. But I'm running out of time and want to get everything finished this next week so I can focus on getting things loaded for SDAC. Got lots to carry with me to the event and really can't wait to get there!


Why not just swap the K frame at the event, I hear it's been done there:lol:

[minigts]

Why not just swap the K frame at the event, I hear it's been done there:lol:

Haha well I wouldn't mind that either, but I have to load the car up to get it to SDAC. :) I may get it aligned on the way up at a members shop, we'll see.

[83scamp]

Thanks Brian. I wasn't sure how it would turn out, but better than anticipated and close to what I had hoped. The first picture I just rested the bezel over it, but when it's secured correctly, the tach needs a slight adjustment up and over to the left. Interestingly enough, I believe there is a slight curve to the gauges from center. When I set the aluminum plate against it, there was a low spot in the middle and realized there was a slight curve. The clutch will be in this week, so I plan to go out to where my car is and do some more wiring in the dash and redo some other places.

Clutch should arrive Saturday and I got the flywheel turned and my starter rebuilt. Thankfully there is a company in town that does both and had them done in one day for about $115. Probably could have gotten the starter for less, but these guys are local, been in the business for a while and have turned a flywheel or two for me before, always do good work. Also got the heim connectors replaced for the driver's side A arm that had some slop in them, but they changed the design a little and there is more spacing than before. I'll have to get some washers to bridge the size difference, maybe I'll hit up DJ for some larger washers. ;)

Things to do:


Get crank seal replaced while the transmission is out
Get flywheel installed
Get clutch installed
Get big 4ss 555 transmission installed
Get motor mounts installed
Install the head
Install the starter
Install the drive shafts
Fill transmission with fluid!
Install the turbo
Get the K frame back in and rack mounted
Install new radiator
Finish wiring the dash for the new gauges
Finish everything else and set the timing on the car



That's a lot to do, but hopefully I'll be able to knock most of the bigger items knocked out Sunday and have small things to take care of another day. But I'm running out of time and want to get everything finished this next week so I can focus on getting things loaded for SDAC. Got lots to carry with me to the event and really can't wait to get there!


Good Lord, and I'm worried about front wheel bearings/hubs & inner tie rods on the Daytona...

I'm hoping to knock out the wheel bearings tomorrow. I have to work all day by myself babysitting contractors at work... Sound like a good excuse to use the shop hydraulic press...:eyebrows:

[minigts]

Well got past the bigger hurdle of it all, but still have lots to do.

Things to do:


Get crank seal replaced while the transmission is out
Get flywheel installed
Get clutch installed
Get big 4ss 555 transmission installed
Get motor mounts installed
Install the head
Install the starter
Install the drive shafts
Fill transmission with fluid!
Install the turbo
Get the K frame back in and rack mounted
Install new radiator
Finish wiring the dash for the new gauges
Finish everything else and set the timing on the car


Cleaning as I go, realized the crank seal was leaking, so it seems. The bell housing was coated all over and the underside of the car and everything close was pretty dirty. Got that replaced and the rest installed and the trans in. WAY easier than normal. Gary Mazzone mentioned using two bolts with the heads cut off threaded in to hang the trans and that did the trick. Took a little to get the input shaft aligned, but I didn't have to hold it like I normally do. Worked like a champ!

The new QA1 heim joints I got for the a arms are thinner than what time had so I have to use washers to bridge the gap and it looks like it's just one I'll need.

The rest will have to get done this week, I really want to get if fired up so I can check for leaks or issues and have to make corrections. Mainly worried about finding leaks, that's always the worst after you put it all back together.

[wheming]

Stay positive, and focused! And keep up the momentum!

[minigts]

Stay positive, and focused! And keep up the momentum!

Trying to do all of that. Worked on the car tonight and plan to work on it tomorrow. Got the suspension squared away with the new heim joints, probably will get the k-frame installed tomorrow. Need to get the power steering fittings for the rack finished so I can loop the lines since I'm not running PS anymore. Also got some wiring done tonight, but still have a lot more to do. Sensors are in and ordered some split loom and fire retardant sleeving for the starter wires and a starter wrap. The last starter fell apart, so figured it would be a good idea to cover it with something protective. And while I do have wraps on the heater hoses, I wouldn't mind putting some type of heat shield cover around the MC as a precaution.

Rest of the things I need to work on are cleaning up the valve cover, prepping the head for installation and getting that back on. Still need to get the radiator installed, but probably will wait until everything else is in before I place it. Without the head or the air filter in place, it's hard to know where it should sit and I don't want to make any mistakes with where it should be mounted. Lots to do, but I think I have a good road to get everything done by next week with a day or so to spare. :thumb:

[minigts]

Just did some cleaning tonight. Took a pic of the expensive parts of the car. The others are sitting getting ready to get installed.

60981

[wheming]

New turbo?
I must have missed that!

[minigts]

New turbo?
I must have missed that!

No, not from when it was installed a couple years ago. The head is on another block waiting, but should have put in the pic. Between all of this and the head and header, got a lotta money sitting there. :)

[wheming]

You don't need to tell me!

[cordes]

No, not from when it was installed a couple years ago. The head is on another block waiting, but should have put in the pic. Between all of this and the head and header, got a lotta money sitting there. :)

The contrast of the ratcheting wrench and the parts seems like some sort of a commentary. This is art.

[wheming]

The contrast of the ratcheting wrench and the parts seems like some sort of a commentary. This is art.

I'm not that artsy, but i think it's some kind of metaphor.
I think he's trying to say that with a couple 13mm wrenches, one being a ratcheting wrench, along with a common cresent wrench he can install all the parts shown.
Applied further maybe with the same combination of tools one could take on virtually any task?

Also one thing notably absent from these subsequent pics....

.....the feet.
;)

[83scamp]

Just did some cleaning tonight. Took a pic of the expensive parts of the car. The others are sitting getting ready to get installed.

60981

I would agree, that looks expensive....:p

[cordes]

I'm not that artsy, but i think it's some kind of metaphor.
I think he's trying to say that with a couple 13mm wrenches, one being a ratcheting wrench, along with a common cresent wrench he can install all the parts shown.
Applied further maybe with the same combination of tools one could take on virtually any task?

Also one thing notably absent from these subsequent pics....

.....the feet.
;)

I think it goes without saying that the lack of feet means that he won't need to ride the shoe leather express with these parts. It also means that the days of Walking for Wieners are long behind him.

I think the wrenches are really a nod to one of the all time great films. It's not really about a car, but about friends and life. Much like SDAC.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfCAheFCE0Q

[82 Rampage]

If you need any help, let me know, I will be out of town tomorrow, but after that till time to leave I can help if needed.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

[contraption22]

Just did some cleaning tonight. Took a pic of the expensive parts of the car. The others are sitting getting ready to get installed.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60981&stc=1

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60996&stc=1

[cordes]

Wow. Thanks for taking that to a new level Mike. I'm not sure if it's cool, or horrifying that you looked at his parts and realized they look just like the female reproductive system.

[minigts]

Well I crammed a few weeks of work into a couple of days and still fell short of actually getting everything done before the end of SDAC. Got the car running the day after we got to the hotel, did an alignment, got the radiator installed and anchored, got the wiring done and all the sensors installed for the new gauges and finally did get the gauges installed, but none working until the last day. Ended the event with a fuel leak that pretty much prevented me from drag racing the last day. I had plans to get a fuel pump and filter swapped out, but just really hit a wall after I couldn't fix the leak with the regulator. Have to admit, I was glad to have the break and just breathe and enjoy a day without having anything really to do. Once I got home, I realized the seat on the regulator had been damaged, so it was a simple fix and got the car back up and running. The fuel leak was caused when I was swapping in the +40s, which is a long overdue upgrade. But flashed the LM with the cal Warren had made for me a while back and been driving it some since. Need to take some fuel out, but cruise is pretty good.

LOVING the 555 and the gearing isn't as bad as I thought it would be compared to the 525. Definitely way smoother shifting and really enjoying the 6 puck clutch from TU, so much that I got the car up to speed on the interstate.

61156

Ok, just kidding. The gauges are all in, but I still haven't calibrated the speedo. Always going somewhere and don't have the time to run through the process to do it, but it is fairly simple. Next up after getting that done will be updating the tune to take some fuel out all around and probably check my alignment. We did it in the parking lot and it seemed like it was good, but during the road course I really rubbed the driver's side sidewall bad and will probably do the same to my street tires if I don't get it adjusted.

Still need to get the fuel pump and filter installed and I also have the R5 TU cam that I would like to install as well. There is always something, but the biggest hurdle I had with this car was running the 525, but now with that I have the 555 in, I feel like I don't have to worry about the trans giving out at some point.

[cordes]

You did a ton of work in the lot Jon. I can't remember anyone showing up with a car that needed that many items in order to run before. The best part is that you got it running in short order.

[minigts]

Thanks, WE did a lot. The alignment was a huge help, time and money for sure. I think the camber setting is off, but it drives straight as an arrow, more so than any alignment I've had done. And the steering wheel is set correctly for the first time in a long while. My long term goals for next year include some cosmetic changes, so no intentions on repeating what happened this year.

Driving the car around, finally get to see specific numbers for oil pressure and coolant temps. Both look really good, but I may run a lower temp thermostat. Currently running a 192, but I'd like to see cooler temps. I am running mostly distilled water and it is around 95+° out, so probably not out of range as it runs right around 200, fluctuating a little up and down. What is really really nice is the fact it holds pressure in the cooling system for a while after turning the car off. That hasn't happened since I bought the car back in 2010!

Bigger goals for next year are new Lengel intake, fender flares and possibly some cosmetic changes front and rear.

[cordes]

I can't wait to see it. If you need anyone to crew for some vintage road racing just let me know.

[contraption22]

Jon, congrats on all the work you've done to the car so far and how well it's turned out.
.
What are your fan on-off temps? That will have more of an effect on your idling temp than the thermostat temp.
A colder thermostat will have more effect on your cruising temp. Your temp above 45-50mph should really be right around your thermostat temp if you have good radiator capacity and airflow management.
Make sure to block off any path that air could take around your radiator into the engine compartment.

[minigts]

Jon, congrats on all the work you've done to the car so far and how well it's turned out.
.
What are your fan on-off temps? That will have more of an effect on your idling temp than the thermostat temp.
A colder thermostat will have more effect on your cruising temp. Your temp above 45-50mph should really be right around your thermostat temp if you have good radiator capacity and airflow management.
Make sure to block off any path that air could take around your radiator into the engine compartment.

Temps at cruise are close to 190, usually creeps above 210 at low speed and traffic, but I think the stock setting is 212° for the fan to kick on. I don't think it is inefficient, just thought about running a lower tstat for road course days.

[wheming]

You'll need to adjust your fan settings in conjuction with your t-stat change to make use of the lower temp 'stat.
Let us know which temp stat, and we can suggest fan settings.

[minigts]

You'll need to adjust your fan settings in conjuction with your t-stat change to make use of the lower temp 'stat.
Let us know which temp stat, and we can suggest fan settings.

Yeah I always have to look for the table that define the fan switch setting. Will do Wayne!

[minigts]

This is the combined video from the road course event at SDAC. Thanks to Cordes for providing the GoPro and video editing!!


https://youtu.be/-u9JdJ0Qix4

[2.216VTurbo]

Im not one to judge Jon but daaayaam, the birthday car was kickin yer arse;)

[minigts]

Im not one to judge Jon but daaayaam, the birthday car was kickin yer arse;)

Haha well I was running part throttle since I hadn't changed out the injectors and was running lean above 5k RPM, but he also got signaled to let me pass....twice... and didn't. He probably didn't see it, so I couldn't pass because I wanted to. He was moving though, I was impressed with how it was running.

[cordes]

Let's get an update on the signature pic change. Where are the pics of those new seats????

[minigts]

Let's get an update on the signature pic change. Where are the pics of those new seats????

hahaha This was from the cancer walk last year. I love the contrast of the colors, so I used it for my profile pic. :)

Got the fuel pump swapped out today and man did it need it!

61987 61986 61988


I thought the new pump would help with the fuel issue I've been having, but it seems I'm still running lean on WOT when boost kicks in around 3500RPM. I have the PE table set REALLY high, but I have not made any adjustments to the actual fuel map WOT table, so there may still be some adjustments I need to make. There is another dyno day coming up I'd like to do again with the same boost settings, but run it out to at least 6K RPM. I really believe with the right amount of fuel I can get to 260+ HP at 15psi, but that may be just a pipe dream.

I also have an R5 cam I'd LOVE to get installed to see what it will do, but I want to do a few good runs with the current setup to see the difference. :D

[minigts]

Adding a picture of the inside of the tank.

62015

[2.216VTurbo]

Is it just me but does thd inside of your tank look like a Frank Llyoid Wright home? Super clean and modern...

[83scamp]

Adding a picture of the inside of the tank.

62015

Wow, after seeing that sock, I figured the inside of the tank would not look good.

Glad to see everything is nice & clean for you.

That reminds me, I need to pull the sending unit out of the Scamp again... I need to adjust the float arm. The new unit I installed never lets the gas gauge go above "E", even when full...

[cordes]

That is a conspicuous difference between the tank and the sock. Did you clean the tank thoroughly before reassembly?

[minigts]

That is a conspicuous difference between the tank and the sock. Did you clean the tank thoroughly before reassembly?

No, just installed the unit and sealed it back up. Didn't have time or the desire to pull the tank, as I was at a friend's house and had to get the car running again to get home. There is some white residue in the baffled area, but nothing was floating around or seemed to be visibly loose in the tank. Need to make some adjustments in fuel still. Didn't seem to impact anything with a good sock and higher flow pump. Was hoping my lean condition was due to inadequate flow, but there was no change in the AF ratios after the pump was installed.

[Aries_Turbo]

Need to make some adjustments in fuel still. Didn't seem to impact anything with a good sock and higher flow pump. Was hoping my lean condition was due to inadequate flow, but there was no change in the AF ratios after the pump was installed.

what injectors are you running? scale the injectors a little smaller numerically if you are running something like 72lb injectors as scaling large injectors isnt working quite right these days.

Brian

[cordes]

With the system you have, I wouldn't be surprised if you have maxed out the pumping table, or close to it if you're keeping the stock curves.

[minigts]

what injectors are you running? scale the injectors a little smaller numerically if you are running something like 72lb injectors as scaling large injectors isnt working quite right these days.

Brian

I have +40s in it now. Interestingly enough, when I installed them a while back, somehow the Ostrich wasn't taking the changes, so I was running +40s with a +20 cal. Eventually I got that corrected though. That would take some serious adjustments to get a decent drive out of it, but it may be the best solution given the current setup isn't working and I'm not sure if adding more fuel in the FuelFullThrottle table will make a difference. I have yet to modify that table drastically, so who knows. But thanks for the idea Brian!



With the system you have, I wouldn't be surprised if you have maxed out the pumping table, or close to it if you're keeping the stock curves.

I've wondered if I need to upgrade injectors as well. I didn't think that would be the case, but it is very possible they aren't cutting it. Hard to think that is the case and I don't want to spend the money if that isn't the issue, which is why I'm hoping I can make adjustments to the fuel table enough and then back down the PE table from where I have it. I think it's at least 95%, if not higher.

[minigts]

Got the new Lengel intake plenum today! Woohoo!!!!
62079 62080 62081 62082

62083 62084 62085 62086

[2.216VTurbo]

Since you're sweating me about flowing my parts in another thread JTWH, Id be curious about flowing those monster manifolds. I know they're prolly gonna flow more than a lot of benches can even measure buuut, the balance? How much air is #1 moving compared to #4. Or #2 Or #3...

[contraption22]

It wouldn't surprise me at all if you're running out of injector.

[Nemesismachine]

...I haven't seen most of this stuff in person, but from the pictures the IC is HUGE...


Installed
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47298&stc=1
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47301&stc=1
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47304&stc=1


How big is that thing (she said, smiling)? Looking for something similar to put in my Rampage.

[minigts]

How big is that thing (she said, smiling)? Looking for something similar to put in my Rampage.

Nick I'm sorry I just saw this. This is a Spearco 450 (I think). Brian Slower installed it and it's been a few years, but it is rated for at least 400hp. I'm sure you've picked one out by now. I've seen some of your posts on Facebook, looking good! Really appreciate the time you're taking to do things like the lizard skin inside.

[contraption22]

Nick I'm sorry I just saw this. This is a Spearco 450 (I think). Brian Slower installed it and it's been a few years, but it is rated for at least 400hp. I'm sure you've picked one out by now. I've seen some of your posts on Facebook, looking good! Really appreciate the time you're taking to do things like the lizard skin inside.

You've really been neglecting your followers lately.

[minigts]

Hahahaha For some reason I don't get notifications on this thread. I've tried to unsubscribe and re-subscribe to no avail.

[minigts]

I think these pictures were posted in another thread, but thought it would be a good idea to add the information here. This is the DillBlox fuse panel kit that will replace that will replace the stock unit that basically fell apart when I pulled the dash to replace it. Pretty cool stuff. Modular, uses very common terminals and also expandable. Stock position count was about 16 total, but this allows at least 24 with this configuration and as you can see more would fit. It uses the mini fuses, has options for relays and also has blocks for the old style hazard flashers.

65854 65855 65856

6585765858

Also started taking apart the 525 I got from Ken Soroka. This was something he graciously sold to me with the intent of putting it in the GLHS. Since he passed away almost 2 years ago (I think), I have been thinking about this and getting this project going. Right now I am in the process of disassembling to assess the condition and really just take a look inside, but let me say that it is in great shape! Notice the gears.... :)

65862 65861 65860

65859 65863

[135sohc]

You and the 525's..

Was that a Chrysler special or something totally aftermarket from back in the day ? Is that a large spline disc ?

[minigts]

You and the 525's..

Was that a Chrysler special or something totally aftermarket from back in the day ? Is that a large spline disc ?

Hahaha no this is a straight cut gear transmission that I believe was used in the team Shelby race cars from the 80s. Cordes probably knows more since he picked it up for me after Ken sold it to me. Can't wait to hear this thing whine.... and then I'll be very ready to not hear it. :)

[cordes]

That’s correct. Very, very few made, and allegedly 10s of thousands each for the custom gears to be made.

[135sohc]

Is 5th also straight cut or regular helical pitched ? Wondering if they started with 'blanks' from new process and then cut them or if they were totally made from scratch.

[minigts]

Is 5th also straight cut or regular helical pitched ? Wondering if they started with 'blanks' from new process and then cut them or if they were totally made from scratch.

5th is the same, didn't take the pic because I bundled it with the synchros as one piece to keep it all together.

[cordes]

Is 5th also straight cut or regular helical pitched ? Wondering if they started with 'blanks' from new process and then cut them or if they were totally made from scratch.

If it is how the rest of that setup looked, they probably had it made from scratch locally. I hate to say it, but that whole deal looks like it’s a lot more work that I thought based off of initial conversations about it. The flex plate clutch combo will be very interesting to see working.

- - - Updated - - -

Eta: not trying to sound negative at all, it’s just that this whole deal is much more special than just some straight cut gears put into a standard case.

[minigts]

Pics of 5th and the diff.

65864 65865

[minigts]

If it is how the rest of that setup looked, they probably had it made from scratch locally. I hate to say it, but that whole deal looks like it’s a lot more work that I thought based off of initial conversations about it. The flex plate clutch combo will be very interesting to see working.

- - - Updated - - -

Eta: not trying to sound negative at all, it’s just that this whole deal is much more special than just some straight cut gears put into a standard case.

Well I don't think the flex plate multi clutch setup is required to make it work though, right? I mean I could run it, but a TU clutch would do the trick.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

I read somewhere the early 520 transmissions were pretty much 525's in a different case .. with some differences..
(???)

so ..I'm having the thought..if that could be put in a better case ..I would

but I've never taken any of my 520's apart and looked inside as I never had to

..built/fixed lots of 525's though including one "unbreakable one"

the trick was being really tight .. NO bearing clearances.. it ran/idled slow for 1-2 min as things first started to "adjust" themselves inside the trans

installing just the input shaft & testing that I needed the ratchet to turn it..
I didn't have to force it ,but I wasn't going to be able to turn it with my fingers

there's a mod I'd consider ..especially as you have special parts that no one wants to see go fubar

the shift fork rails in the trans, the forks and the little screws that thread into the fork to hold them in position on the rails

EYEAH...those little screws..they thread into the forks.. and have a nub end that locates in a hole in the shift rail..

yeah .. that needs to change ..to a bolt with a longer threaded section ..and a thread cut in the fork AND rail

so..
when you break that little dammed bolt..

power shifting the ump-teen gillion''th..time
cough
you don't blow your trans into the afterlife when that little nub end of the bolt finds it's way to the pinion and ring gear..

makes for a quick case failure at the front secondary shaft bearing..

( that was a 555 btw)

[minigts]

Good thoughts there.

I will say that I will not be drag racing thos thing, but do intend to road race the car. Given what I put the stock 525 through before, this one will probably hold up ok. It does have a girdle for the diff and that will for sure help. It would be interesting to see how things would fit in another, stronger case though.

[BadAssPerformance]

Cool to see the gears I heard about! I came here to post the same thing, make it fit in a 520/555 case. that case ever flexes those gears are trashed...

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

curious Q, ....do you know the gear ratios and FD ratio?

and I'm presuming "Team Shelby"likely means that I'm looking at one of those never to be found Shelby 525 LS diff's (?)

[minigts]

I can get the gears and count all that out. Unsure of the FD ratio.

I have one of the Shelby LSDs as well, got that from Tim C. when he was selling off Bill Gamalski's (sp?) stash. I actually still have that transmission in tact sitting in my garage. I'd have to confirm, but a local member put that together for me. Doubt he took pics of it though.

[cordes]

I could have sworn that the input shaft length as different for that clutch setup. I could have misunderstood or be miss remembering.

[minigts]

I could have sworn that the input shaft length as different for that clutch setup. I could have misunderstood or be miss remembering.

Well now I'm going to have to measure the length! Haha I would have not noticed I'd it was too short. I did a quick measurement and it may be off by 1/4-1/2", but I need to probably pull the input shaft on the stock unit I have to see for sure.

[cordes]

Post up the measurement. I have a ton of bare shafts in the basement.

[135sohc]

modular clutch ?

[minigts]

Post up the measurement. I have a ton of bare shafts in the basement.

I'm going to say 13 3/4".



modular clutch ?

It has a pack of clutches, pics below.

65874 65873 65872

[cordes]

Sorry it has taken so long to get a measurement. I got really close with a tape and an 87-88 style 555 input shaft. It’s most likely a hair short of 14”. I think this gear set might be able to go into a 555/520 case and use a quaif. I have t thought a ton about it. But it should probably work.

[86Shelby]

I don't see why that gearset wouldn't fit in a 520/555 case. I recall a guy with a really nice GLHS in the northeast...Marcus in CT maybe...that had Cliff Ramsdell build a 525 with a 555 input shaft and speed gears in his 525 case. The counter/cluster shaft is the only variable from what I'm thinking.

[ajakeski]

You can put those straight cut 525 gears on a 520 or 555 intermediate shaft, inside a 555 case…

- - - Updated - - -

You can put those straight cut 525 gears on a 520 or 555 intermediate shaft, inside a 555 case…

[minigts]

Sorry it has taken so long to get a measurement. I got really close with a tape and an 87-88 style 555 input shaft. It’s most likely a hair short of 14”. I think this gear set might be able to go into a 555/520 case and use a quaif. I have t thought a ton about it. But it should probably work.


I don't see why that gearset wouldn't fit in a 520/555 case. I recall a guy with a really nice GLHS in the northeast...Marcus in CT maybe...that had Cliff Ramsdell build a 525 with a 555 input shaft and speed gears in his 525 case. The counter/cluster shaft is the only variable from what I'm thinking.


You can put those straight cut 525 gears on a 520 or 555 intermediate shaft, inside a 555 case…

- - - Updated - - -

You can put those straight cut 525 gears on a 520 or 555 intermediate shaft, inside a 555 case…


Man this is good to hear! I know the 525 I was running for years held up fine in the stock case, but I was probably living on hopes and dreams to think it would hold up any longer. I heard a rumor that Dave Tekampe was always sitting close by with a shovel and a bucket to pick up the leftovers once the case gave way. Hahahaha

Another upgrade coming as well, just ordered an electric power steering unit to mock up fitment so I can order a kit from epowersteering.com.

More to come as I get it ready or test!

[cordes]

That’s exciting Jon. I can’t wait to follow the progress.

[cordes]

I'm sure it's in this thread, but I couldn't find the info. What power distribution setup did you end up going with? Have you evaluated the Littelfuse units yet? I'm tempted to put together something with these.

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/240/POWR_BLOK_Modules_Datasheet-1317233.pdf