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View Full Version : Painting Engine Bay of my CSX-VNT



Shadowjake
05-10-2010, 11:35 AM
Since I have the engine bay cleared out, I wanted to clean it up and paint it. I plan to have the exterior professionally done, but was hoping to do the bay myself with rattle cans. I have been reading up on it a lot and it seems like if I get it cleaned up really well, scuff the base paint up good, prime it, sand it, and paint it, I should be able to get it to look pretty decent. I don't have access to a paint gun (don't really want to buy one) and can't move the car very easily with the cross member out to have someone else do it the "right way".

The main questions are:

Do you guys have any helpful tips or instructional websites I could use to get it looking as good as I can?

What is a good aerosol paint that matches the PR1 paint code? Would this (http://www.automotivetouchup.com/choosecolor/buypaint.aspx?year=1989&make=Chrysler&model=All+Models&colordesc=Exotic+Red%2C+PR1%2C+No%2C+No%2C+*+39097 ) one work?

How many ounces do you think I would need to do the engine bay?

Thanks!

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9T2na8sIZI/AAAAAAAADJM/Gfp0JF0GQdU/s800/P1000762.JPG

135sohc
05-10-2010, 12:52 PM
Before you pickup the scuff pad go over everything atleast 3x with lots of wax & grease remover. You will probably take some of the paint right off doing that (its very thin and soft in some areas) but thats ok since it will be getting redone anyways.

turboshad
05-10-2010, 01:05 PM
Another trick is to use tin foil to cover all the hoses and lines you don't take out. I find it by far the easiest to apply and take off after. Plus it's pretty cheap. :thumb:

raccoon
05-10-2010, 01:27 PM
i think you should remove the harness along with a lot of other things, its not much more work.

Warren Stramer
05-10-2010, 01:35 PM
Many parts jobbers that supply auto body and paint to body shops can mix up your paint code color and put it in a rattle can. Ive had it done many times. Its pretty cheap too.

Captain Chaos
05-10-2010, 01:44 PM
Before you pickup the scuff pad go over everything atleast 3x with lots of wax & grease remover. You will probably take some of the paint right off doing that (its very thin and soft in some areas) but thats ok since it will be getting redone anyways.

I agree. Every engine swap I've done I wipe the entire engine compartment down with a rag soaked in laquer thinner. I have to be careful so as not to remove paint but like stated you have nothing to worry about. The only thing I would do as a final prep would be to wipe it down with a tack cloth.:thumb:

blk86trbo
05-10-2010, 02:28 PM
Another trick is to use tin foil to cover all the hoses and lines you don't take out. I find it by far the easiest to apply and take off after. Plus it's pretty cheap. :thumb:

Wow that's a great tip...thanks for posting that up!

Marcus86GLHS
05-10-2010, 06:47 PM
"......I plan to have the exterior professionally done, but was hoping to do the bay myself with rattle cans. ......."


a pro-painted exterior w/ a rattle-can engine bay on an 89 CSX?

why not rent a sand blaster, get a bag of 220 grit silicon carbide, blast it, then have your professional guy just lean over and spray the engine bay w/ the car?

you might thank me later.

Shadowjake
05-10-2010, 07:08 PM
"
why not rent a sand blaster, get a bag of 220 grit silicon carbide, blast it, then have your professional guy just lean over and spray the engine bay w/ the car?



The problem is getting the car there. I was planning on having it running under its own power when I get the exterior done. I doubt the paint shop could spray the engine bay with the engine in. I agree it would be nice to have the entire chassis painted when it is stripped naked. With the cross member out, I can't really move it. I want it to look nice but I just don't have the ability to trailer it to a shop to have it all painted.

Would it be noticeably bad if I rattle can painted it? With the engine in and all the plumbing/wiring in place, hardly any of the bay paint is exposed from what I remember.

If I were to sand blast it, primer it, and paint it with light coats, would the results be that much different? I want it done right, but if it is a marginal difference, it might not be worth the effort. . .

Shadowjake
05-10-2010, 07:57 PM
Or should I rebuild the cross member (new bushings, fresh paint, etc) reinstall it, and put it on a trailer for a paint job before I install the engine?

Is it something I "heard" or is a bad thing to roll the wheels without the axles installed in the hubs?

Would the cross member impede the paint job if installed? I planned to paint partly up the exhaust channel. All advise is appreciated. . .

cordes
05-10-2010, 09:29 PM
Or should I rebuild the cross member (new bushings, fresh paint, etc) reinstall it, and put it on a trailer for a paint job before I install the engine?

Is it something I "heard" or is a bad thing to roll the wheels without the axles installed in the hubs?

Would the cross member impede the paint job if installed? I planned to paint partly up the exhaust channel. All advise is appreciated. . .

It will ruin the bearings in short order if you are pushing the car around without the axles in there. I have a couple axle ends which are lying around for this very reason. You don't need the whole axle, just the end so you can torque down the nuts.

1966 dart wagon
05-10-2010, 10:13 PM
I would start by wiping the engine bay alot with wax and grease remover, do it a couple times. Scuff the area with a red scotchbrite/scuff pad. I wouldn't recommend doing it with rattle can, the color will looks weird compared to the outside(wrong 'shade'), about the only color I would say its ok for is black. Plus if gas hits it its coming right off, and its not near as durable as a Base clear/ single stage, at a minimum i would at least go with a single stage. Also since when the shop goes to tape off the engine bay so paint doesnt blow in there, there is a chance where ever the new base clear runs over the rattle can(assuming its lacquer not enamel paint) it can lift, which then you have a big headache for the shop/you, since they probably will say tuff luck since its kinda your fault for doing it that way. Not to come off as a dick but thats just my opinion.

Good luck and dont forget to get pics up of the car, gotta love a freashly painted car!

-Jack

jl93sundance
05-10-2010, 10:31 PM
"......I plan to have the exterior professionally done, but was hoping to do the bay myself with rattle cans. ......."


a pro-painted exterior w/ a rattle-can engine bay on an 89 CSX?

why not rent a sand blaster, get a bag of 220 grit silicon carbide, blast it, then have your professional guy just lean over and spray the engine bay w/ the car?

you might thank me later.

Big +1 you wont regret it:nod:

Marcus86GLHS
05-11-2010, 04:42 AM
Jake it's your call of course but if you have a car like an 89 CSX and are spending the time and money to restore the exterior, and the engine bay is sort of rough and also in need of freshening, I would do whatever extra work and effort is required to spray the engine bay at the paint shop.

one thing to consider: clear coat. The factory did not apply the clear coat to the engine bays, only the base coat. So you'd have to decide on whether to "over restore" the engine bay paint w/ the clear coat or leave it base coat only.

and yes, even with engine bay fully assembled to factory specs you will see a lot of engine bay surface area under the hood of any Shadow so it's worth the effort to get it right if you are already restoring the rest of the car.

supercrackerbox
05-11-2010, 05:33 AM
I had no problems with rattle can paint in my Charger.

First off, go ahead and remove that brake booster, throttle cable, and the wiring harness completely. You're only four bolts and a few connectors away. It doesn't hurt to label all the connectors under the dash if you're unsure, but they're all different so you can't mix them up. The big thing is making sure you've got them all reconnected.

Now on my engine bay, I sprayed it all down with oven cleaner and hosed it out to get the heavy stuff off, but it doesn't look like you have that problem, so go straight for the laquer thinner or acetone. You want to make sure everything is completely grease free before you start sanding so you don't rub the grease deeper into the paint. Then sand/scuff everything really well with some green scotch pads. Then wipe everything down with acetone again until you're sure its clean.

Now on my car, I did three coats of primer, and then painted it with cans mixed by the paint shop as Warren suggested. I think I did three or four coats, basically enough to make sure it was all coated. Then I followed with three coats of rattle clear. It all layed down suprisingly smooth, so I opted not to do any color sanding or anything. I let it cure for about two weeks, and then gave it a good coat of wax since this would be my last chance while the bay was this empty. Everything was done out in the driveway too, as I didn't have a garage available at the time. The first pic was taken only moments after we unloaded it off the trailer.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/scbay1.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/scbay2.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/scbay6.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/scbay3.JPG

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd65/86Shelby/SDAC%2019%20trip/IMG_1907.jpg

Marcus86GLHS
05-11-2010, 09:05 AM
can't argue with those results, fantastic work Adam.

6daytonas
05-11-2010, 02:49 PM
You're so close already. Like everyone said, clean, clean, clean it. Once you're done, clean it once more. You'll want to scuff it good - I'd use 600 and again at 800. Go someplace affordable like Sherwin Williams (automotive, not residential) and have them mix up a couple cans of your factory color. Your call on the single stage or base/clear. I'd go base/clear.

The base will go on very flat and dry quickly. Lay down a drop coat of clear after one hour of base dry time. The drop coat should be light and will allow the clear to start 'melting' into the base. Don't lay the clear on too heavy or it will run on you. Wait 30 mins and lay down a slightly heavier coat of clear. 30 mins, another coat. 30 mins, another coat.

With red, I'd use at least two coats of base, assuming you don't need to prime anyplace. With the clear, I'd go at least three coats plus the drop coat. If you have enough clear, go four plus the drop coat. I'd say you'll need two cans of base and three cans of clear. Probably looking at about $75 or so for decent paint.

J&H Ryan
05-12-2010, 08:44 PM
I'm no tow truck driver, but it seems like with the way they haul cars sometimes, the front suspension isnt even in play? Why not just have it towed by a wrecker?

iTurbo
05-12-2010, 08:45 PM
Looks incredible Adam!

Shadowjake
05-15-2010, 03:02 PM
been thinking a lot and I think I will get the cross member cleaned, painted, and put back in and get it hauled off to the paint shop before I put the engine back in. I will need to order some poly bushings first. I want the car done right and don't trust my painting ability. Thanks for all the tips guys.

Jake

rich tideswell
05-16-2010, 07:30 PM
If you're going to rattle can the k-frame, you might want to think about using the high temp paints as it will be near the hot engine.

30 PSI SHADOW
05-23-2010, 09:40 PM
nice job alan! for rattiling,im impressed! hope to see you again this year at sdac. your car looks good!

30 PSI SHADOW
05-23-2010, 09:41 PM
adam, my typing stinks!

supercrackerbox
05-24-2010, 11:31 AM
Sorry, won't be at SDAC this year. :(

1966 dart wagon
06-25-2010, 07:28 PM
dam thats one nice looking engine bay adam!