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omni_840
05-09-2010, 10:32 PM
I recently bought another GLH from a semi-local (about 60 miles) TM guy. This is my 3rd GLH and my plans are to build an auto-X/street car.
Enough talk for know on with some pics:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/062.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/063.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/064.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/065.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/066.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/067.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/068.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/069.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/070.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/071.JPG
I found this stashed in the glove box where the owner's manual goes (beef stick)
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/072.JPG
You can barely read it but the best by date was 4/22/91:wow1:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/074.JPG

More pics of parts collected later....

Thanks for looking:)

cordes
05-09-2010, 11:14 PM
Very cool. Eat the Jerky.

Darkwolf
05-10-2010, 12:49 AM
I take it this isn't the $2500 one :)

How are the floors?

omni_840
05-10-2010, 09:14 AM
Very cool. Eat the Jerky.

I would have but it was already open;)


I take it this isn't the $2500 one :)

How are the floors?

Not the one from Williamstown....

The underneath is in great shape:love:

omni_840
06-06-2010, 12:11 AM
Parts Update:

Engine - 2.5 CB, JE +.20 Forged Pistons, ARP Rod Bolts, Balanced & Blueprinted (the white stuff is a lubricant I sprayed on it to prevent rust)
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/041-2.jpg

TVanlant +1mm Head
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/018-2.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/012-1.jpg

Turbo - T04E, Stage II Comp Wheel, .63 A/R Chrysler Housing
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/T04E50trim4.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/T04E50trim2.jpg

Med NPR IC & Aluminum Piping
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/101_0518.jpg

Log Style Header
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/035-1.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/034-1.jpg

TU 3'' SV & DP(not in pic)
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/033-1.jpg

TU Ultimate Street/Strip Kevlar Clutch
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/044.jpg

PB Engine & Tranny Mounts
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/040-1.jpg

+40's, 3 bar MAP & pigtail
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/038-3.jpg

2 piece IM & 52mm TB
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/036-2.jpg

Magnecor Wires
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/041-1.jpg

cordes
06-06-2010, 12:19 AM
Wow, that thing is really going to scoot.

omni_840
02-09-2012, 03:29 PM
Bringing this thread back from Zombie land:)

After over a year hiatus from working on this project (moving, setting up my garage, parts gathering, etc...) I've finally started!

First question I have is about enlarging the oil feed hole on the block.
1) Can I enlarge the hole with the short block together?
2) My pump is a HV and the hole is needing to be opened on two sides. I noticed in a thread keito is working on KC article for this mod and in his pic it was only one place needing to be opened up. Should i open up two places on the block?
Pics:
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/IMAG0857.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/IMAG0856.jpg


Stay tuned for some updated pics of parts and other work:D

Turbo224
02-09-2012, 04:50 PM
Looks like you have all the right parts to make this thing badass! Looking forward to more progress

omni_840
05-07-2012, 07:41 PM
A little update/question....

I've been getting ready for the assembly of my long block(my first time:)).......What do you guys loctite? In the FSM I see no mention of Loctite other tha the thread sealant and the aneorobic sealant. Also an other tips would be appreciated:thumb:

Also I just got my turbo coolant lines from TU (thanks Chris) and the fitting that screws into the block doesn't fit. It looks like there's another fitting in the block and it I tried to break it free and it's really stuck on there. Could I just get a bigger fitting for the line and use the threads already there?
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/IMAG1013.jpg

Also the timing belt tensioner has a little bend on the lip from being dropped(I guess), should I use it?
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/IMAG1014.jpg

cordes
05-08-2012, 05:26 PM
That fitting will come out of the block. The hole in the block is 1/4" NPT. I would straighten out the tensioner a little and run it.

speedfreek500
05-09-2012, 02:28 AM
Good looking project, did you mount the header on the head and try to fit the intake? I have almost the same header and the intake would not into place of the shallow header.

omni_840
05-09-2012, 12:49 PM
Good looking project, did you mount the header on the head and try to fit the intake? I have almost the same header and the intake would not into place of the shallow header.

I'm glad you posted this......I had not actually confirmed that it would all work. So I immediately went out to the garage to start test fitting:) Boy it was close!
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/IMAG1031.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/IMAG1029.jpg

Hard to see from the pics but I have around a 1/4'' of space between the WG arm and the intake runners.

Is that too close? I noticed in your build thread speedfreak that you got a spacer for your header, how is the fitment now?

speedfreek500
05-09-2012, 01:40 PM
Glad i could help out, you will be ok with 1/4 clearance. The flange was perfect and now everything fits, Iam just waiting for my intake to get from Simon so i can finish putting everything back on.

omni_840
05-13-2012, 11:01 AM
Not a lot of work to the car done over the weekend, my little girl turned 2 yesterday.

Although not directly project related I did get a new digi cam for my bday so the pic quality will be better than my evo's camera:)

I did manage to get most of my parts off the shelf and on the workbench.
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/003-2.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/004-2.jpg

Also bought AFPR and braided lines
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/009-3.jpg

Also had the 2 piece ported and polished and opened up to 52mm TB
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/005-3.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/006-1.jpg


I'm still wondering what bolt/nut get's what stuff on it (thread sealant,anti-sieze,loctite)

Thread Sealant:
1)Turbo coolant fittings
2)fitting on the block (btw I got the old one off)
3)?????

Anti-sieze:
1)SV Bolts
2)Exhaust Mani Nuts
3)Turbo to header bolts
4)?????

Loctite:
1) Flywheel bolts
2)?????

I've looked through the FSM and didn't see any reference to loctite being used. What should I put on the IM bolts?

cordes
05-13-2012, 11:16 PM
Thread sealant goes on all NPT fittings, but not on the AN flare fittings. It should also go on the exhaust manifold studs as a couple of them go into oil passages on some of the heads.

I put antiseize on everything, but I'm going to just use SS bolts on the SV housing next time. I already use SS bolts for the DP.

I use blue locktite on the pressure plate bolts.

I'm missing what you're abbreviating with IM.

minigts
05-13-2012, 11:26 PM
I would guess the intake manifold bolts. I don't put anything on them, just torque them to 23Nm (I think?). I don't remember the number, but it's something like that. I think there are 7, 4 on the back and three on the front.

cordes
05-13-2012, 11:34 PM
Nm? Seriously? You are the only guy on the planet using that system as general reference who doesn't think that socialism is a bang up idea.

Let's see... 23Nms is equal to .023 kilo-joules; which is about 16.96 ft/lbs of torque; which is about 203.5 in/lbs. I thought it was supposed to be around 150 inch lbs?

Also, Wolframalpha doesn't even return newton meters when 23Nm is input. You have to put 23 newton meters in and even then they don't give inch lbs. back at all.

minigts
05-13-2012, 11:43 PM
Nm? Seriously? You are the only guy on the planet using that system as general reference who doesn't think that socialism is a bang up idea.

Let's see... 23Nms is equal to .023 kilo-joules; which is about 16.96 ft/lbs of torque; which is about 203.5 in/lbs. I thought it was supposed to be around 150 inch lbs?

Also, Wolframalpha doesn't even return newton meters when 23Nm is input. You have to put 23 newton meters in and even then they don't give inch lbs. back at all.

haha I had a visual in my mind of what the torque reference was in the FSM and that stuck out because it's used quite frequently for torque specs in the FSMs. lol That made me laugh. I think it reads N.m in the book, but I'd have to check.

omni_840
05-14-2012, 09:22 AM
LOL, thanks guys!

Do any of the brackets or motor mounts get anything?

Also Cordes where did you get the SS DP bolts? I know they are M8X1.25, but were they just a regular hex head?
I'm also putting in helicoils in the SV:)

cordes
05-14-2012, 05:46 PM
LOL, thanks guys!

Do any of the brackets or motor mounts get anything?

Also Cordes where did you get the SS DP bolts? I know they are M8X1.25, but were they just a regular hex head?
I'm also putting in helicoils in the SV:)

There isn't anything called for in the FSM, however your best bet is to buy a longer bolt for the bottom of the front motor mount where it goes through the trans. That one always backs out so a longer bolt with a nut and altered washer on the back side is nice to keep it in place.

I get all of my SS hardware at the local hardware store. It's well stocked. They are regular hex head.

omni_840
05-16-2012, 02:35 PM
^^Thanks Cordes

Got the head studs in and the head torqued down.

Started bolting the manifolds on the head and getting the oil/coolant lines ready for the turbo. Hit a couple snags.....

1) the oil feed fitting from the ss line is too small to bolt in the turbo (see pic)

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/027-1.jpg

What should I do? I saw ATP turbo carries the flange with -an fitting on, but I would like to just get a bigger fitting.

2)The turbo flange on the header only has one stud, should I put studs in the other 3 holes or just run bolts?

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/022-1.jpg

cordes
05-16-2012, 06:20 PM
The fitting on the top of the Turbonetics turbos really sucks these days. IIRC I recall running a 90* AN fitting on top of it to solve the problem. Going off of memory the kits the vendors sell didn't come with everything I needed to hook it up to my new turbo back when.

I would get new studs.

speedfreek500
05-17-2012, 12:57 AM
Ya but look at the top left hole, it will need a heli coil to male it work for a stud. The hole is much bigger than the rest, I would put a metric fine thread bolt with a stover c-lock nut and run it. The other 2 you maybe able to cut some threads in the flange.

Brian

cordes
05-17-2012, 01:00 AM
Ya but look at the top left hole, it will need a heli coil to male it work for a stud. The hole is much bigger than the rest, I would put a metric fine thread bolt with a stover c-lock nut and run it. The other 2 you maybe able to cut some threads in the flange.

Brian

Nice catch. I'm wondering if the photo is throwing the perspective off? It doesn't look like the holes should be that big?

omni_840
05-17-2012, 09:54 AM
Guess the angle of the pic distorted the holes(looked funny to me too) so I went out and measured the 3 holes and they are all the same:)

So should I tap the three holes for 10X1.5 studs?

Also I looked at this 90* fitting for my oil feed
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=1292&cat_key=614&prodname=Turbo+Oil+supply+Feed+Fitting+90+Degree

Could I just bolt this on and use the above fitting?
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=121&cat_key=615&prodname=Standard+T3%2FT4+Turbo+Oil+Drain+Flange

cordes
05-17-2012, 10:22 AM
I would just drill and tap them for the stock studs. I do use SS nuts on my studs these days though.

That first fitting looks like it may be JIC which is compatible with AN, but not as nice. They are steel and the spec for the threads isn't quite as high IIRC. It will work though.

The second link is for a drain back flange. I don't believe that the two flange surfaces have the same bolt spacing. Even if they did the one in your link (and probably all others out there) is 1/2" NPT and will be way too much trouble to adapt down without hitting the intake or WG rod.

omni_840
05-18-2012, 03:12 PM
Thanks for the info cordes, I'm still stumped on which fitting will be the right one.

So I noticed something kind of interesting the stud in the manifold is a M10 and the holes are for M12.........

I'm having a hard time finding the studs for the manifold in M12 honestly. Starting to see why the previous owner ran bolts:D

The engine build is at a stand still until I figure out the mounting for the turbo to exhaust manifold. I'm also going to have the exhaust manifold flange flatened (just to be 100%) by my machinist.

I did notice while test fitting everything the 2nd bolt on the top from the right is hard to get the socket to fully engage when I tightening it down. (socket starts hitting the welds) Can I get a littler nut with the same thread spacing of the exhaust manifold stud?

I also starting getting everything unhooked and ready to pull the orginal engine. I'm leaning towards dropping it from the bottom. Does anyone have the link describing how to do this?


Cleaned all the leaves and debris from under the hood as well
Before:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/069.JPG

After:
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/001-2.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/002-1.jpg

cordes
05-18-2012, 03:16 PM
With no hood on it I would just pull the engine and trans out the top. If you have an engine leveler that should be no problem at all. Otherwise you just have to make sure that you have enough chain to drop the engine to the floor and that you don't get hung up on the K frame with the trans.

speedfreek500
05-18-2012, 03:19 PM
If you can not studs you can.

1. Use bolts
2. After the flange is trued up from the machine shop you could tack weld the studs in from behind.

I would pull the engine out from the top, its alot easier.

omni_840
05-24-2012, 09:02 PM
^^I'm just going with bolts for now

I took the header to my machinist and it was pretty warped....I told him I was going to cut 3 reliefs between the headers and bring it back. I brought it back the next day and was surprised the reliefs actually fixed a lot of the warpage. It was around .006 off in the middle still so I had it flatened.
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/027-2.jpg

I also pulled the engine/tranny
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/029.jpg

I was really surprised how easy it was(my first solo engine pull).

I did notice a couple of strange things:
1) Absolutley no oil came out of the diff when I pull the axles
2) the front motor mount was broken by the block

Force Fed Mopar
05-24-2012, 09:45 PM
I like to loctite the front motor mount bolts that go into the block. They usually have a bad habit of coming loose.

cordes
05-24-2012, 11:37 PM
I like to loctite the front motor mount bolts that go into the block. They usually have a bad habit of coming loose.

Indeed. The best way to go is to run a longer bolt through the trans in the very bottom hole of the mount and put a nut on the back side.

135sohc
05-25-2012, 01:11 AM
I have seen the wrong bolts used there and they bottomed out inside the block just before actually being run down tight.

omni_840
07-17-2012, 08:14 PM
Been a while since I've updated this build.....after a short hiatus(vacation,no power for a week,etc...)

Got the a/c components removed from the car and ran the the wires for the TII conversion
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/019-1.jpg

Finally started bolting everything to the block, got the intake/exhaust manifolds bolted on the head. Started in on getting the turbo bolted on, but ran into a couple snags with my new TU coolant lines. They don't fit!
Here's a pic showing how far the return is from the fitting in the block
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/021-4.jpg

This is the extension for the return
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/022-3.jpg

The feed line is interfering with the oil feed line (I also have a 90* fitting not pictured for the oil feed)
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/024-1.jpg

Looks like I've got wrong fitting as well for the part that connects in the front. one end looks of the silver fitting looks like it doesn't need to be a JIC.
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/026-2.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/027-4.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/028.jpg

Also I mocked up the oil drain tube and wanted to see what you guys think?
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/025-1.jpg

engine stand shot
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/029-2.jpg

cordes
07-18-2012, 12:51 PM
Your oil and coolant lines on the turbo are exactly why I always make my own. It's far easier and not much more expensive than getting the stuff to make the kits work right in the first place.

As far as the oil drain goes, I can't tell how the angle is from your photo. It doesn't look bad in that pic though.

minigts
07-18-2012, 12:58 PM
There may be a coolant return line kit made for that header. That is the header that relocates the turbo, correct? Check with Chris and see if there is another line kit he can swap out for that one. If not, Brian has made some lines and I'm sure he can provide the details on how to build your own for cheap. He's good at frugal, in all seriousness.

cordes
07-18-2012, 01:07 PM
There may be a coolant return line kit made for that header. That is the header that relocates the turbo, correct? Check with Chris and see if there is another line kit he can swap out for that one. If not, Brian has made some lines and I'm sure he can provide the details on how to build your own for cheap. He's good at frugal, in all seriousness.

Unfortunately the last time I made lines they weren't cheap by most anyone's standards. If you use the cheaper JIC stuff that the vendor kits include it becomes super easy to do it on the cheap if you have a good hydraulics shop around. Looks like one of those was hard to come by when that kit was made. Yikes!

omni_840
07-18-2012, 03:05 PM
Your oil and coolant lines on the turbo are exactly why I always make my own. It's far easier and not much more expensive than getting the stuff to make the kits work right in the first place.

As far as the oil drain goes, I can't tell how the angle is from your photo. It doesn't look bad in that pic though.

Here's a couple pics of the oil drain
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/004-3.jpg
I like this pic,b/c I had an epiphany! I figured out that I have the extension on the wrong end(it needed to be on the block,duh)
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/003-3.jpg

Here it is fixed
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/007-2.jpg


There may be a coolant return line kit made for that header. That is the header that relocates the turbo, correct? Check with Chris and see if there is another line kit he can swap out for that one. If not, Brian has made some lines and I'm sure he can provide the details on how to build your own for cheap. He's good at frugal, in all seriousness.

Thanks for tip, after I read that I was thinking about the pieces the seller sent with the header. I'm wondering if the extension came with the header from TU?

minigts
07-18-2012, 03:17 PM
...Pics were here....



Thanks for tip, after I read that I was thinking about the pieces the seller sent with the header. I'm wondering if the extension came with the header from TU?

I'd go ahead and bolt up the PS bracket if you are going to use it to ensure the lines route correctly. That seems to reach JUST enough, but I don't remember where that line actually runs and how the bracket is affixed.

And My apologies about mentioning a vendor, I just assumed you got those from TU. I would think they did though, given that that is the TU header, I think. But make sure the bracket fits, assuming you're going to have PS.

omni_840
07-18-2012, 03:42 PM
I'd go ahead and bolt up the PS bracket if you are going to use it to ensure the lines route correctly. That seems to reach JUST enough, but I don't remember where that line actually runs and how the bracket is affixed.

And My apologies about mentioning a vendor, I just assumed you got those from TU. I would think they did though, given that that is the TU header, I think. But make sure the bracket fits, assuming you're going to have PS.

Good call on the PS bracket.

No need to apologize! If I havdn't figured out my mistake I was going to contact Chris:)

cordes
07-19-2012, 01:13 AM
+1 for checking the bracket. I actually grind off that mounting point on them as I had one from the factory without that provision. I figured if some of them came from the factory that way, why not all of them?

PunKid
07-20-2012, 08:00 PM
What did you do with all the AC components, I am in the process of trying to put AC back in my car and I might be interested in buying some of the lines.

omni_840
07-22-2012, 11:17 PM
What did you do with all the AC components, I am in the process of trying to put AC back in my car and I might be interested in buying some of the lines.

I replied in your wanted thread

I did sneak out to the garage this evening and finished up the turbo,SV, oil pan installation

Hard to tell from the pic, but I also installed helicoil's in the SV

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/160.jpg

Also the WG arm is pretty close the lower part of the IM

What do you guys think?
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/162.jpg

cordes
07-22-2012, 11:22 PM
Most all of them are very, very close to the intake. I would throw some compressed air off of a regulator to see if it'll hit before you drop it in the car.

omni_840
07-23-2012, 12:11 AM
Most all of them are very, very close to the intake. I would throw some compressed air off of a regulator to see if it'll hit before you drop it in the car.

Good to know about the WG arm, so do I just hook up my compressor to the WG vacuum nipple?

cordes
07-23-2012, 12:15 AM
Good to know about the WG arm, so do I just hook up my compressor to the WG vacuum nipple?

I run a line off the compressor like you would for an air tool, then I plug in a small regulator with a barb and vac line on it, plug the vac line onto the WG can and slowly bring up the pressre. I use this setup to test all sorts of vac related things.

omni_840
07-28-2012, 10:29 PM
OK did some more stuff this evening... Got the TU SS coolant lines on, I had to exchange the long JIC union for a shorter one
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/006-4.jpg

Also got the oil feed line set up
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/003-4.jpg

a shot from the back of the turbo
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/005-4.jpg

I then started in on the A555's seals (2-differential & 1-input shaft) and got the omni-potent chrome moly bearing plate installed
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/001-6.jpg

BTW the the large bushing on the splined shaft that moves the TOB is busted, anyone know the PN?

Also I don't plan on running an heat, so I don't want to install the metal pipe coming off th head, does anyone know the size of the plug I would need?

Thanks

135sohc
07-28-2012, 11:08 PM
I tried to order that bushing awhile back and the dealership informed me it wasnt available, atleast not from chrysler directly. You might try matching up the ID/OD-length and get a plastic or bronze bushing to replace it. I used one from a donor case and glued it in place with some rtv.

cordes
07-29-2012, 10:13 PM
OK did some more stuff this evening... Got the TU SS coolant lines on, I had to exchange the long JIC union for a shorter one
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/006-4.jpg

Also got the oil feed line set up
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/003-4.jpg


a shot from the back of the turbo
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/005-4.jpg

I then started in on the A555's seals (2-differential & 1-input shaft) and got the omni-potent chrome moly bearing plate installed
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/001-6.jpg

BTW the the large bushing on the splined shaft that moves the TOB is busted, anyone know the PN?

Also I don't plan on running an heat, so I don't want to install the metal pipe coming off th head, does anyone know the size of the plug I would need?

Thanks


I'm pretty sure the pipe on the head is 3/4" NPT. You should be able to verify that it isn't half inch pretty easily though. Don't forget that you still need something coming off of there to move water. Either that or coming off of the driver's side of the head.

omni_840
07-29-2012, 11:55 PM
I'm pretty sure the pipe on the head is 3/4" NPT. You should be able to verify that it isn't half inch pretty easily though. Don't forget that you still need something coming off of there to move water. Either that or coming off of the driver's side of the head.

Thanks for the size and for telling me I need something there (or around there) to move water.

What are some ways to solve this problem?

Thanks

cordes
07-30-2012, 12:04 AM
Thanks for the size and for telling me I need something there (or around there) to move water.

What are some ways to solve this problem?

Thanks

I usually just run a line off of a NPT barb down to the water pump inlet. Other than that I like the idea of running a line off the side of the head using the NPT mod Shadow posted about, or the VW T-stat housing mod others have used. For space purposes I like to just run the line off of the water box instead.

Force Fed Mopar
07-30-2012, 09:12 AM
Thanks for the size and for telling me I need something there (or around there) to move water.

What are some ways to solve this problem?

Thanks

That pipe is the water pump bypass, w/o it the cooling system doesn't work right. Just run the hose from there straight to the radiator, doesn't have to go to the heater core.

PunKid
08-17-2012, 08:03 PM
Dude you do the best packing I have ever seen. Got all the AC components the other days, I am getting cold just thinking about it Thanks!

omni_840
08-17-2012, 09:00 PM
Dude you do the best packing I have ever seen. Got all the AC components the other days, I am getting cold just thinking about it Thanks!

LOL, glad it all made it in one piece! I was still nervous the condensor would get damaged and got really lucky I found that box:)

BTW I just pulled the blower from under the dash, you can have it for the price of shipping if you want it, although that sucker is pretty heavy:thumb:


Thanks for bumping this up too, I've done a few little things....I mentioned above I pulled the blower out from under the dash and boy was that fun(NOT!) Had to drop the steering column and the dash to get it out. Then I got the wiring done for the TII conversion on the plug to the LM. Still need to finish connecting the 2 wires for the AIS under the hood. I also bought a 4 wire O2 sensor and air temp sensor from rockauto.com

PunKid
08-18-2012, 11:44 AM
My car orginally had AC so I still have the blower motor (although it has been chewed by mice). But I have been there with pulling the heater box when I did my floors. It sucked, and it was just as bad going back in!

Good Luck with the project I will be looking for updates

omni_840
08-21-2012, 09:40 PM
I tried some porting for the first time this evening, here are some pics. Let me know if I should do more or any other tips:thumb:

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/055.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/052.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/050.jpg

cordes
08-21-2012, 10:17 PM
That looks pretty good to me. Nice work.

omni_840
08-25-2012, 08:21 PM
Did a little more porting on the WP.....Here is a couple pics:
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/018-3.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/019-2.jpg

I also had to notch the oil pan for clearance of the non cb WP
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/022-4.jpg

I also installed the new WP(not pictured) but you can see it in the background:)

omni_840
09-18-2012, 10:49 PM
I haven't updated this thread in a few weeks, but I've been slowly plugging away

1) installed the Polybushing front & side motor mounts and the tranny mount
2)finally completed my wiring for the 87 electonics and the TII conversion(still need to finish the 4 wire O2 sensor conversion)
3)installed an underhood 3 Bar MAP
4)converted my fuel lines to AN fittings
5)Installed a new TO bearing on my A555 along with the tranny mount

I'm sure there's some more stuff I'm forgetting and I'll post some pics tomorrow

minigts
09-19-2012, 09:39 AM
If you can get some good pics of the AN fittings, I'd like to see what you did. Cool deal though! Glad you're getting some stuff accomplished. :thumb:

Omniglh134
09-19-2012, 09:40 PM
Who did your header?! I need one done but I'm using the 4 bolt standard. Like on the spirit rt's. Let me know if you know anyone who can! thanks!

omni_840
09-19-2012, 10:05 PM
If you can get some good pics of the AN fittings, I'd like to see what you did. Cool deal though! Glad you're getting some stuff accomplished. :thumb:

Here's a pics
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/omni_840/003_zps00f98dd9.jpg

I can't take credit for this Rich helped me with this , here is a



For the 1/4" line I have never seen an AN adapter from Earls or any of the others so I used the following from mcmaster.com:

5929K45 Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, Adapter For 1/4" Tube Od X 1/4" Npt Female Pipe

It is a 1/4" compression fitting that goes into a 1/4" female NPT fitting

I then used a 1/4" NPT to 3/8" Jic fitting (3/8" JIC is the same fitting as -6 AN):

50695K163 Steel 37 Degree Flared Tube Fitting, Adapter For 3/8" Tube Od X 1/4" Nptf Male Pipe


They also have them in brass but I think zinc plated steel is stronger and also looks better. It is rated for gasoline so it is the perfect solution. I may someday upgrade to a 3/8" feed and 5/16" return but until I really need it this works well. It took me a long time to figure out the best way to do it without messing with flaring lines.

I just looked and they don't have a 5/16 tube to 3/8 NPT fitting like the above one. They do have a 5/16 tube to 1/4 NPT but that would create a bottleneck in your feed line so I don't recommend it.

For the 5/16" line I would just get one of these: Earl's 165056 AN Fuel Line Adapter Fitting -6AN to 5/16" Metal Tube



Who did your header?! I need one done but I'm using the 4 bolt standard. Like on the spirit rt's. Let me know if you know anyone who can! thanks!

I bought it 2nd hand, but it's a TU SS log header, Chris may have some in stock, if not Turbovanman is teaming up with Shayne to do custom fab, I bet they could make you whatever you want

Omniglh134
09-19-2012, 10:50 PM
Chris who? Sorry I'm kinda new here!

omni_840
09-19-2012, 11:11 PM
Chris at turbosunleashed.com

minigts
09-20-2012, 06:43 PM
Thanks Brendhan, I wasn't sure what type of fittings you used for the lines or if you ran all new lines. I did the compression type fittings as well. Looks good though, keep going!

omni_840
09-22-2012, 10:35 PM
Another update....

Got the flywheel, TU Clutch and the tranny bolted to the block!

I will say that lining the input shaft and the clutch was a lot of fun(where's the sarcasm button) after fighting and fighting with it and even enlisting my wife for help, I still couldn't get the sucker to line up. I walked away, ate dinner and got on TM for some help. Did a quick search and found the thread titled "tranny install nightmare" read through that and saw where Badassperformance posted the pic of the guides he used to line up the tranny and where someone mention wiggling the FW. So I went back out made a couple guide pins, moved the FW slightly and it slipped on with a couple minutes! But wait there's more as I was tightening the bolts the ear on the rear part of the block had the guide stuck in it and so did the tranny, so you guessed it I had to pull the tranny back off and get the dowel out of the block. After trying everything I finally broke out the mini torch and heated it up and bam it came out. So after fighting with the tranny again I got it lined up and bolted up. Man I'm pooped:D

I get some pics but I was so tired and glad to have it done I just came in w/o doing it but I'll get some tomorrow:nod:

Getting ready to put the engine in....anything I should maybe do inside the bay before I do so? Also I'm thinking of sliding it udnderneath, what do you guys think?

Thanks

cordes
09-23-2012, 02:18 AM
I've done it both ways and I actually prefer to drop it in from the top.

I would thoroughly clean the engine bay before putting the engine and trans back in there if you're into that kind of thing.