Chrysler LH platform & 3.5 V6 service questions.

[135sohc]

This coming week/next weekend I'll be replacing the timing belt, waterpump, front & rear struts, outer tie rod ends, control arms ect on our 03 Concorde w/3.5 V6.

For the engine I'll also be replacing the camshaft & crankshaft seals. Crankseal is the same as our 2.2's and I already have all the service tools for that procedure so thats good to go. Camshaft seals use their own different remover and installing tools which I'll be ordering tomorrow (can never have to many tools !)

But the suspension and in particular the steering linkage is giving me some haunting feeling that theres going to be some stupid PITA problems. Are there any special tools or notes to remember when working on it ? I have a pitman arm puller and one of those universal ball joint C-clamp style presses w/inserts. Replacement struts are the loaded quick-struts so no messing with those springs :amen:.

Thanks.

[Vigo]

If you're taking the cam gears off you may want to buy the tool that aligns the cams at the back of the head. The factory cam gears have a few degrees of slop in them if you loosen them, believe it or not..

[135sohc]

If you're taking the cam gears off you may want to buy the tool that aligns the cams at the back of the head. The factory cam gears have a few degrees of slop in them if you loosen them, believe it or not..

Its funny cause I literally just read the service manual before coming back to this thread and it mentioned that little detail. :thumb: looks like I'll be needing two of those.

[Vigo]

Its a weird tidbit but cool in a way. I really enjoyed the 3.5 car i owned. Looked at a 300m for my mother the other day and liked that one too (although she ended up getting an S80).

I did a few things to mine.. 2.7 gears and a 3300 stall converter definitely helped it. :)

I actually looked pretty hard for local LH 3.5 cars to buy this week for my mom, i like them alot.

[135sohc]

Decision was made to skip on changing the camshaft seals due to time constraints. I inspected them closely and they are showing no signs of leaking or seeping oil. Did get the recommended puller and their installer for pressing the crank pulley/dampener back on however.

This is moms car. turn key and go from point A to B to C and back to A is all its for.

From a reliability stand point its 99.998% factory original and it needs to stay that way. no hotrodding or screwing with stuff unless it needs repair/replacement.

[Vigo]

Gotcha. The cam seals are kind of a big job because of the gear adjustment mess.

Just hope that the o-ring's between the rear timing cover and the block don't start leaking..that one didnt make me happy. :p

[135sohc]

The only O-ring leaking is that stupid one on the front of the intake manifold just above the upper rad hose. I pulled the diamond shaped cover off there and there was a puddle of oil inside there :yuck: pvc valve is probably plugged solid, atleast I hope thats all it is.

[135sohc]

Replaced the timing belt with minimal fuss. only managed to dump about a quart of atf on the ground from the cooling line hose unhooking itself and flopping forward.

I noticed this car uses pink antifreeze/coolant. Is there an available aftermarket coolant thats compatable with it ? I've only ever seen and bought the old school green stuff for the Shadow & Van and the GM dex-cool crap for the VW and doing a quick search at napa and az they only sell dex-cool and green conventional.

[rich tideswell]

most of the "green coolant" is now universal for "any make/ model/ year" but i wouldn't ncesissarily use it. the pink stuff is availble from the dealer or some places carry it in the Zerex brand (but i don't think it's pink - it's just a dye, no biggie). look for Zerex G-05. I know Murray's/ CSK did (Now O'Rieley), but i don't know if they do now. Maybe NAPA, Advanced....

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/zerex/antifreeze/42

[JDAWG]

is the steering sloppy or make noise? Usually the inner tie rod bushings go bad, there is a repair kit available, also check out the engine cradle bushings, they are like $30 a piece aftermarket and there are 8! Johnny at polybushings makes a nice kit for $150

[135sohc]

Napa had the zerex coolant on the shelf for $15.00 gallon out the door. not as bad as I thought it would be.

Steering was fine, I checked the inners and they were ok. outers were definetly gone though and replaced.
I thought the engine cradle bushings were only a first gen issue ? the PB ones are only for the 93-97 cars.


Only real issue as of now are the strut rod bars on the front suspension. On both sides they were very crunchy where they passed through the bushings at the frame & control arm. Called the dealer and found out they were on an open ended backorder :mad: with no time schedule on when they might be available... 6 days, 6 weeks, 6 months who knows ?

no aftermarket source for those (Dorman are you listening??)
so I cleaned them up, lubed with the PB grease (sticky stuff!!) and put them together.

[JDAWG]

oh didnt know you had a 2nd gen as they did put the 3.5 in the first gen

[135sohc]

yeah its a 2003, they seemed to have fixed alot of the little quirks the first gen ones had.

Johnny does make the coil spring insulators for the 98+ but with the quick-strut assembly the replacements were actually rubber and not that foam crap which was pretty much gone from the originals.

[JDAWG]

yea they are good cars, do you need the whole rod or just the bushings?

[135sohc]

I just need the rod. p/n 4782060AB x2

Replacement control arm came with new bushings installed and I bought the bushing for the frame/cradle end from the parts store also.

Guy at the dealer said there were 2 strut rods left in the entire country and approx 200 on backorder :o

[JDAWG]

yup, he right, goodluck lol

[135sohc]

And it runs!!! :confused: :wow1:
Threw the rest of the suspension back together and finished off the engine.

Turned the key and its alive :amen: First time doing the timing belt on a crasher engine, my fingers were crossed when I turned the key over.

Tomorrow its getting dropped off to have the deer strike damage fixed.