PDA

View Full Version : Flywheel Flattness


Boost_Virgin
06-05-2006, 10:29 PM
I have been having trouble getting my new 4-puck to disengage. For all the other stuff I have tried, and more details check these threads out.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114884

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3770

Today when me and my brother pulled the tranny for the second time we checked the flatness of the flywheel while it was on the car. While I will not go into the details we saw a difference of about .030" from one side to the other. Also the wear markes are different on the flywheel. After all that we pulled it off the car and took it to the part store. Useing digital calipers we found the same .030" differeance. Would a differance like that keep my clutch from fully disengaing?

I just don't want to put it all back together to have the same problem.
TurboJerry
06-06-2006, 03:15 AM
It can definately cause a problem. Will the car start and run with it in gear clutch pedal down? If it drags lightly, I'd say the flywheel is a good chance.... But the disc / pressure plate need to be checked also. If it drags heavy, it might be the PP is actually bad.(also the clutch cable/pedal)
Boost_Virgin
06-06-2006, 07:22 AM
Yes it starts and runs with the clutch pedal in. IF the wheels are in the air the wheels start to spin. But if you let the peddle out the car will go like normal.
turbovanmanČ
06-06-2006, 12:35 PM
.030 is alot, it may not seem like it but amplified thru the power train, its huge.
After all these issues your having, I would buy a new or known good flywheel. FWD sells lightened stockers good stockers, or just buy a brand new one, that way, you know your getting a good one and that its not too thin.
Boost_Virgin
06-07-2006, 10:50 PM
.030 is alot, it may not seem like it but amplified thru the power train, its huge.
After all these issues your having, I would buy a new or known good flywheel. FWD sells lightened stockers good stockers, or just buy a brand new one, that way, you know your getting a good one and that its not too thin.


I finally bit the bullet and got a known good one from FWD Performance. It was hard to spend the money when I'm not working.
TurboJerry
06-09-2006, 02:59 AM
It only needs to drag lightly to not disengage properly. (won't go into gear with clutch pedal all the way down) The puck clutches are usually more forgiving of this though...... But .030" is considerable. The flywheel should be the answer.
Boost_Virgin
06-15-2006, 11:45 PM
Got the flywheel refinished. It fixed everything! The shop that did the job (the second time) said they have never seen a flywheel so out of flatness. This took care of all my issuses. I have been driving my R/T since 11:00am today trying to get the break-in miles built up. Thanks for everyones help!
MiniMopar
06-15-2006, 11:58 PM
Yeah, it sounds like the flywheel wasn't mounted true when they machined it the first time.
looneytuner
06-16-2006, 12:16 AM
You have my sympathy. When I got mine machined, I went to LRE's old shop and asked who did it. they gave me a name and said they had great equipment that made it hard to screw up even if they tried.
It sounds like you have found every shop in St. Louis that CAN'T do it right.,
Boost_Virgin
06-16-2006, 01:09 AM
Yeah, it sounds like the flywheel wasn't mounted true when they machined it the first time.


From what the second machinist was telling me it seems to me that it was not clamped down tight. Threre were high spots and low spots all over the place. Like it wobbled as it was being turned, or it was not clamped down all the way. It was not consistant any were like you would think it there was a chip under it while it was being turned. Oh well now I'm a little wiser. :D
turbovanmanČ
06-18-2006, 05:17 PM
Good news man, glad to hear you can finally enjoy some TIII power, :thumb: