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Shadowjake
04-01-2010, 11:54 PM
Here are some pictures from tonight.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7Vk9b6nicI/AAAAAAAAC_U/Ro_-s25K3T4/s800/P1000627.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7VlARQVbjI/AAAAAAAAC_Y/QQssqtb6YkY/s800/P1000628.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7VlC0lQiyI/AAAAAAAAC_c/0iW0o2dHsnk/s800/P1000629.JPG

Getting ready to pull the crank.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7VlKLwuZxI/AAAAAAAAC_k/Vh-tMTQh-c4/s800/P1000631.JPG

Got 'er out.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7VlTvxYJII/AAAAAAAAC_0/XbmM1P3mg8E/s800/P1000634.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7VlXJA041I/AAAAAAAAC_4/W4JKF_PRktg/s800/P1000635.JPG

The old pistons/rods.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7Vla-FQcHI/AAAAAAAADAA/3_RXbJ6eJAg/s800/P1000636.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7Vle-2znII/AAAAAAAADAE/FCmhNW3HKek/s800/P1000637.JPG

Starting to disassemble the head ported by Steve Menogen I bought used from a user on the forums.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7VljdgZVCI/AAAAAAAADAI/SAR-afWOvxw/s800/P1000638.JPG

The cam has a rough spot on the third exhaust lobe. Not sure what caused it, but will this be a big deal? If they re-condition the cam to smooth this part out I might lose some lift.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7VmKc04WWI/AAAAAAAADA4/qdCnu7paJgk/s800/P1000648.JPG

I have the original that has been sitting for a while so it's rusted. Which would be better to rework? Here's the original. They are both the same ('89 roller cams).

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7VmtaDJPWI/AAAAAAAADBc/An7ZBPQnCxY/s800/P1000655.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7Vmx-FxqCI/AAAAAAAADBg/03tiRA-2EWM/s800/P1000656.JPG

Pulling the valves.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7VmT1iiGtI/AAAAAAAADBE/gRezgVl0pWM/s800/P1000650.JPG

After a little simple green, the head cleaned up really nicely.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7VmoQkmhFI/AAAAAAAADBY/fbeXOmfpjrA/s800/P1000654.JPG

Here's a shot comparing the stock head ports (left) to the Steve head ports (right). Quite the difference!

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7VnKfgbDkI/AAAAAAAADB8/3dzhrk9RrTQ/s800/P1000661.JPG

cordes
04-01-2010, 11:56 PM
I honestly wouldn't mess with the cams given how cheap they are in the JY. I would just go and pick another one up.

Shadowjake
04-02-2010, 12:03 AM
But wouldn't the JY ones be just as rusty? Or is this an opportunity for me to upgrade? Is there anything better than the 89 stocker with my setup?

cordes
04-02-2010, 12:17 AM
But wouldn't the JY ones be just as rusty? Or is this an opportunity for me to upgrade? Is there anything better than the 89 stocker with my setup?

My head is still spinning from the stock cam threads of last year. The second cam you posted a pic of looks like it would clean up without much pitting if any. Should that be the case you are good to go. Otherwise, you can find a much nicer cam in a decent JY for $20.

Shadowjake
04-02-2010, 12:28 AM
Yeah, the second pic, although rusty, was the stock one that has just been in a humid garage for about 2 years. It ran great when it was in the CSX. It is mostly surface rust. I'll take it in to the shop with the head and have them use that one and hopefully it works out. Thanks Cordes.

Jake

turbokid
04-02-2010, 01:44 AM
whats the plans for the car?

Shadowjake
04-02-2010, 01:50 AM
forged wiseco pistons, +40 injectors, 3" JRB exhaust, ported head (obviously), better intercooler (thinking turbos unleashed), hybrid turbo, TU calibration, etc. That's all I can think of but I am pretty fluid. The ultimate goal is to restore the CSX's appearance but add a little more "oomph" than shelby did.

omni_840
04-02-2010, 09:39 AM
Cool project!

Keep us updated on progress:nod:

Shadowjake
04-02-2010, 01:46 PM
Will do and thanks! I just brought the block, rods, pistons, head, and other odds and ends into the shop to get reworked today. I'll be putting it all back together when the work is done.

Jake

Shadowjake
04-02-2010, 09:08 PM
Block, head, and other random parts loaded up and on our way to the machine shop.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7aQWkyQgVI/AAAAAAAADDw/gCem8UHlZhI/s800/P1000666.JPG

CSX153
04-02-2010, 09:48 PM
looks good, keep us updated.

MNmopar
04-04-2010, 02:19 PM
Where are you in Wisconsin?

turbokid
04-04-2010, 08:35 PM
Awesome goal. That thing should be sick!

Shadowjake
04-04-2010, 10:16 PM
Where are you in Wisconsin?

Eau Claire. Where are you in MN? Are you planning on going to Mopars in the Park this summer?

Jake

MNmopar
04-04-2010, 10:30 PM
I'm in the Brainerd area, about 2 1/2 hours north of the twin cities.

I grew up in Wisconsin though, that's why I was asking. I thought maybe I'd know someone that knew you, but I lived by Green Bay. I was just in Eau Claire about a week and a half ago for work though.:)

I'm going to try to make it to mopars in the park, are you going to bring the csx?

Shadowjake
04-04-2010, 11:27 PM
I would but it won't be rolling yet. I want to take time getting everything all cleaned up nicely. I'll be driving my SRT4 but it is nothing to see really; pretty much stock. My goal is to have the CSX on the road by the end of summer.

Jake

Shadowjake
04-07-2010, 01:04 PM
I have an OBX on the shelf and want to get it installed in the A555 tranny but after doing some research, I think converting it to a hybrid tranny and installing the LSD is above my skill level. I think I am going to call Chris at TU and see how much he'd charge to hot tank, rebuild, convert to hybrid, install a molley support plate, install drain plug, QC the OBX, and install it. I have the tranny and OBX but no other parts. I wonder how much this would cost me.

Another thing I am debating with the car is the intercooler. I DO NOT want to have to cut any of the car to run the plumbing but would also like to keep the AC (condenser might be in the way). I just don't see where I can run this plumbing besides under the radiator support but will that be too low or restrictive from the 90 degree angles?

Anyone have any pics of FMIC plumbing in a P body that they installed without cutting the car or removing the A/C?

WLKivett
04-07-2010, 02:08 PM
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=628328&postcount=44

here is a post of mine with a MR2 intercooler installed. Works well for a nearly stock type install.

Shadowjake
04-07-2010, 05:22 PM
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=628328&postcount=44

here is a post of mine with a MR2 intercooler installed. Works well for a nearly stock type install.

Nice! Did you use the same mounts as the stock cooler uses? Is it the same height? How well does it flow and cool compared to a stocker? I will have to look into one of those.

Shadowjake
04-07-2010, 05:57 PM
I just ordered the transmission rebuild and other odds and ends from TU. Today I got the tranny all degreased, drained, stripped, and cleaned up for shipping. Here are some pics.

I also decided to snap some pics of the interior and badges.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7z2O9qyOfI/AAAAAAAADFI/XCm0aGd8gco/s800/P1000706.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7z2QuKQ8JI/AAAAAAAADFM/iGojB0AK5fo/s800/P1000709.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7z2SoR7QcI/AAAAAAAADFQ/PI9MDyNWpk8/s800/P1000710.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7z2UK0191I/AAAAAAAADFU/G0hUb-XFewI/s800/P1000711.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7z2V9nClvI/AAAAAAAADFY/TuF_XcAX0D0/s800/P1000712.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7z2XWFN1OI/AAAAAAAADFc/sWcZvUjUKyg/s800/P1000713.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7z2YxYtR8I/AAAAAAAADFg/ST7IVJ5RFmc/s800/P1000715.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S7z2aqEWsdI/AAAAAAAADFo/OJMHGUW1qb8/s800/P1000717.JPG

raccoon
04-07-2010, 06:19 PM
looking good, was there any problems with the transmission or are you just playing it safe?


edit nevermind ive read more of your post. :0

cordes
04-08-2010, 08:25 PM
Very cool. That interior is very clean vs. most I have seen.

Shadowjake
04-20-2010, 10:35 PM
Well, I am making good progress clearing everything out of the engine bay so it can be painted. I still need to take out the fuel/brake lines, master cylinder, horn, front motor mount, and other miscellaneous things. Then I am going to drop the rack and cross member. My plan is to get the engine bay mint and the rebuilt engine/transmission installed. Then I will start on the rest of the body.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S85fyjdRM4I/AAAAAAAADGw/P_cnJTWee7Q/s800/P1000743.JPG

When I removed the plastic wiper cover, I found an old withered mopar performance sticker halfway down the fender hole. You can barely see it on the far front corner. It looks just like the ones I have but still cool to me :D A little piece of its past (I don't know much else about it besides it was sold new in New York and it was owned by a dude named Ron Ferdinand at some point. I looked up Ron Ferdinand and a guy with that name (who lived in New York) was the co-author to the Dennis the Menace comic. Could it be the same guy? Interesting, none the less.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S85fxI7Kx4I/AAAAAAAADGs/u82Qrpv_qsM/s800/P1000742.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S85fzrF-7XI/AAAAAAAADG0/DbmCgccikBY/s800/P1000744.JPG

The plastic shroud on the rack is all dimpled and deformed. Was the Shelby rack unique? Is there anything I can do to correct this defect short of buying a new one?

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S85f0oPpTkI/AAAAAAAADG4/2yg5cl7oEMs/s800/P1000745.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S85f1lym4II/AAAAAAAADHA/-VfFA_Vd9ss/s800/P1000746.JPG

I really want this car to be as cleanly built as possible. I think I will own this thing until I am old and gray, not to mention I want to bring it to shows so others can enjoy it.

Here's a shot with a couple fuel cells sitting on the fender . . .
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S85f2pSOwtI/AAAAAAAADHE/3r-qpfrRhGA/s800/P1000747.JPG

rich tideswell
04-20-2010, 10:48 PM
you can buy new bellows for the rack. NAPA pn# MRC 15002D. Sometimes you can get rebuild kits for the racks.

Shadowjake
04-20-2010, 11:37 PM
Good deal! I wasn't sure if they sold them separately. Thanks!

Shadowjake
04-20-2010, 11:42 PM
I also have some rust growing underneath the lip on the back hatch. I will have the shop fix it when I bring it in for a paint job (whenever the car is ready). Are there any tricks I can do to it to prevent it from spreading further? I just sprayed it with WD40 tonight. It is kept in a really humid garage (built into a hill so it stays moist year round). Please let me know what I should do to it to prevent it from creeping further. Thanks.

Jake Bauer

135sohc
04-21-2010, 12:05 AM
Classic P body hatch lip rust, know that one all to well... :(

The problem is they rust from the inside out so unless its completely cut out and replaced with new metal and done right to keep it from rusting again. attacking the visible rust will slow it down some but not stop it.

make sure the little drain slots are open and not clogged and pull the plastic plugs out. get a can of boeshield t9 or something like it and a straw to spray it in there, focusing on getting it applied down inside the seams where the rust is growing.

I spray mine along with the door bottoms once a month.

rich tideswell
04-21-2010, 07:50 AM
de-humidifier in the garage

Shadowjake
04-22-2010, 10:34 PM
I finally got the engine bay degreased. Here are some pictures:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9EFaV-xROI/AAAAAAAADIA/2bHDNmSFWvQ/s800/P1000750.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9EFbYoMh9I/AAAAAAAADIE/ulIZ6C3rNIY/s800/P1000752.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9EFcnZj_SI/AAAAAAAADII/3uU7ZBsqzp4/s800/P1000753.JPG

I have some serious paint missing here. Clear down to the primer!

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9EFdZgUehI/AAAAAAAADIM/RdN-3iKKtt0/s800/P1000755.JPG

Lots of scratches and nicks. Also missing color towards the front.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9EFepgtwtI/AAAAAAAADIQ/sfFwgPaQBk8/s800/P1000756.JPG

This is the neighbors Firebird that the Shelby shares a garage with. I have to be careful when I worked around it. I'm always paranoid I will scratch it when I am walking between them. . .

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9EFfq8tR0I/AAAAAAAADIY/AUEFAct6dRo/s800/P1000757.JPG

Shadowjake
04-23-2010, 03:03 PM
This might be a dumb question, but I have been wire wheeling my bolts to remove the rust and junk but when I finish, they seem shinier than they should be. Do they come coated with something from Mopar? Can I get it somewhere to recoat them? It doesn't look like paint . . .

turboshad
04-23-2010, 04:22 PM
The bolts will be coated with something from factory or painted. When you wire brush them they look shiney for the first week until water hits them. Then they will turn a brilliant orange :thumb: I usually just hit them with a pit of paint from a spary bomb.

Captain Chaos
04-23-2010, 04:35 PM
For the hardware coating talk to Marcus on here. He had some of his re-zinc coated IIRC. You can find some of his handywork here:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45754

Shadowjake
04-23-2010, 11:09 PM
Is the zinc coating the yellowish ones? What were the motor mount bolts (15mm/18mm ones) and others coated with? They look like they were gun metal black originally but not "painted". I just don't want it to look tacky when I'm done.

Turbo_Rampage
04-24-2010, 12:00 AM
Nice car! :thumb: I bet your inner tie rod end boot is twisted from an alignment shop! I had this problem last year... put a brand new rack in my car and took it to get aligned and the idiots never took the spring clips off the boots when the were adjusting the tie rod ends, and they twisted the boots so badly by the time i got the car home and noticed, one was torn. I just thought i should warn you so you know when it comes time for an alignment... seems like a common problem, since i've seen a few cars like this. If the boot isn't ripped try taking that spring clip off and turning the boot until the wrinkles come out... depending how long it's been like that, it might not go back to shape tho.

135sohc
04-24-2010, 12:19 AM
silver zinc for a majority of the engine bolts. some black oxide for secondary components.

If you have a junkyard near you, go take a look and try to find an original factory assembled car to look over and that will give you a good idea of what was done.

where the paint isnt cracked around the bolt/washer. Bolt heads that arnt marked and threads that arnt rusty would all be good signs of original assembly.

Captain Chaos
04-24-2010, 08:52 AM
silver zinc for a majority of the engine bolts. some black oxide for secondary components.

If you have a junkyard near you, go take a look and try to find an original factory assembled car to look over and that will give you a good idea of what was done.

where the paint isnt cracked around the bolt/washer. Bolt heads that arnt marked and threads that arnt rusty would all be good signs of original assembly.

Yes black oxide, I was racking my brain trying to remember what it was called.

Shadowjake
04-24-2010, 11:48 PM
Dropping the cross member tomorrow. I wanted to pull the brake booster, but it looks like a PITA to get to the bolts from under the dash. How hard is it to paint round it? Or should I ask the neighbor to move his car so I can open the door all the way so I can get a better look?

Shadowjake
04-25-2010, 10:31 PM
My buddy Matt and I got the cross member and the exhaust out tonight.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9T2h2YoGWI/AAAAAAAADI8/aeb3fJGflKc/s800/P1000758.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9T2j6RYVWI/AAAAAAAADJA/sq2ReL67o_8/s800/P1000759.JPG

Pulling out the grill, I forgot a bolt and friggin' broke the thing!:banghead:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9T2lB5e9VI/AAAAAAAADJE/OhVcIs5FYw4/s800/P1000760.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9T2mG2UdeI/AAAAAAAADJI/b7if_V2delo/s800/P1000761.JPG

Still haven't pulled the booster because it seems like it is a royal pain in the @$$. I really should before I paint the bay though. When I can get the neighbor to pull his car out, I will be able to open the car door all the way. I tried to get under the dash with it opened half way and it was like going through contortionist training getting under there!

When I paint the bay, should I paint the radiator support? it looks like it was primer from the factory but it would look so much better painted. It seems like the Wittier factory painted the car pretty half hazardly anyway . . . I think I am going to do it right. . .

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9T2oc5L4RI/AAAAAAAADJU/IOc_S8jmdPY/s800/P1000763.JPG

My beautiful gf was gracious enough to help me clean car parts. She is a total keeper!

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9T2qdpVVII/AAAAAAAADJc/wkW-EaWqHmE/s800/P1000770.JPG

This sucker wasn't hooked up to anything. If I remember correctly, this goes to the factory boost gauge right?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9T2rUYNjqI/AAAAAAAADJg/_1SkXcG0AE4/s800/P1000773.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S9T2sRDGMEI/AAAAAAAADJk/p9haYUQJzb0/s800/P1000774.JPG

Shadowjake
04-26-2010, 12:53 PM
Is that front grill peice I broke the same as any 89 shadow? If I understand correctly, the only unique peice is the grill insert that goes between the headlights right? What other years are the same? Thanks.

OneOfMany
04-26-2010, 03:35 PM
Coming along really nicely. The factory paint in those non-easy to see areas is never that great. On mine, I want the paint done like the guys on the assembly line were building it for themselves.. nice.

Grant

cordes
04-27-2010, 06:46 PM
Is that front grill peice I broke the same as any 89 shadow? If I understand correctly, the only unique peice is the grill insert that goes between the headlights right? What other years are the same? Thanks.

It is a piece unique to the CSX. :(

Shadowjake
04-27-2010, 10:37 PM
Cordes. Are you sure? others in this (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48828) thread have said it was the same as a sundance or duster. Please confirm if you know more. Thanks man.

Jake

turbokid
04-28-2010, 01:12 AM
That grill is unique to the csx. While a shadow grill will fit, it wont be a csx grill.

cordes
04-28-2010, 10:14 PM
Cordes. Are you sure? others in this (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48828) thread have said it was the same as a sundance or duster. Please confirm if you know more. Thanks man.

Jake

I don't know how I could have missed out on the fact that a Sundance grill could be moded easily to fit. Crazier things have happened though. I know for a fact that a Shadow grill won't work. I also seem to recall some repo front grills being made by FWD back when? Seems like a lot of trouble when you could just take the mesh out of a Sundance grill.

Either way a little epoxy should have that thing right as rain.

ohlarikd
04-28-2010, 10:30 PM
Livin' the High Life, I see. I always wonder when I see these teardowns, just how in the world do you remember where and which screws and bolts go where? There are like two million of them. I guess lots of labeled zip lock bags, and a lot of pictures. But man that looks daunting.

Great job so far!

Derek

Shadowjake
05-16-2010, 06:48 PM
I got a couple brackets and the oil pan primed and painted today.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_B0sewM8cI/AAAAAAAADLQ/nQ9Z9VTjGO4/s800/P1000854.JPG

Next I need to do the same to the cross member, control arms (with new ball joints, tie rod ends, and poly bushings), front nuckles/calipers, and anti-sway bar.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_B0t2lkg6I/AAAAAAAADLU/U-Oo34_jP9k/s800/P1000855.JPG

Were the calipers on the CSX-VNT originally gold or zinc colored? It looks like there is a little bit of goldish color on them from years ago.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_B0u1uMNtI/AAAAAAAADLc/Ujp6x0Z3AUI/s800/P1000856.JPG

rich tideswell
05-16-2010, 07:26 PM
I thought they were bare casting???

Shadowjake
05-16-2010, 07:33 PM
Are you referring to the calipers Rich?

rich tideswell
05-16-2010, 07:39 PM
Are you referring to the calipers Rich?

yes. I'm no CSX expert, but i know on all the other production cars they were bare castings... not to say they couldn't have been gold painted...

Shadowjake
05-17-2010, 09:58 PM
Pulled the anti-sway bar tonight and cleaned it up with the wire wheel. I got filthy but had a good time ;-)

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_HyQN9ON3I/AAAAAAAADMY/SpUG8cYPCLs/s800/P1000857.JPG

After a couple hours it cleaned up really nicely though.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_HyRAMdUNI/AAAAAAAADMc/wFQjNcWEvmM/s800/P1000860.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_HySoPKmaI/AAAAAAAADMg/Kk263aFAqds/s800/P1000861.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_HyVStOAsI/AAAAAAAADMo/N-jfC_sStrA/s800/P1000865.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_HyWV1RE2I/AAAAAAAADMs/puyP5Gd3xL0/s800/P1000868.JPG

The inside sway bar bushings were shot but the outside ones are still in decent condition. I am upgrading all of the bushings to polybushings so I don't need them. Anyone want these? Not sure what's fair but I'll let them go for cheap plus shipping. 1 1/8" inside diameter.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_HyUAwvZaI/AAAAAAAADMk/c_2USk9Ng6g/s800/P1000862.JPG

Jake

135sohc
05-17-2010, 10:26 PM
Brake calipers were bare cast.

Shadowjake
05-17-2010, 11:12 PM
Were the anti-sway bars painted from the factory? With the amount of rust on this one (with the rest of the car so clean), I find it hard to believe they coated it with anything. Let me know if you know. Thanks.

135sohc
05-17-2010, 11:52 PM
Painted with undercoating and/or tar based asphaltic junk. Looked good when new... Thats all they cared about :p

rich tideswell
05-18-2010, 08:16 AM
They do have paint that duplicates the color of cast iron but most people just paint them gloss black and be done. "over restoring" a car, sure, but it's your baby and we all like to see purdee resto's anyways =)

Shadowjake
05-18-2010, 10:01 PM
Well, the machine shop kept throwing me red flags that you can read about more here (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48115) but, long story short, I decided to bring my short block to TPiS in Chaska, MN to be built and am shipping the head to Steve Menegon (who originally ported it) so I know the job will be done right. TPiS was recommended by Todd or "4 L-bodies" so I am sure they are going to do an amazing job.

I hope I'm not posting too many pictures; I wish there were more on threads I read but have seen people complain about bandwidth. Since it's not 1990 anymore and most of us shouldn't be on dial up . . . here goes . . .

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_NAo9R_gmI/AAAAAAAADOg/hrgRlzM0voE/s800/P1000887.JPG

The cam cleaned up pretty well.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_NAdSN6CzI/AAAAAAAADNo/0R7G74Crdps/s800/P1000895.JPG

The crank journals.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_NAeCs2BqI/AAAAAAAADNs/bY9g3x7g4OA/s800/P1000897.JPG

The crank. From what I can tell, they actually did a pretty good job polishing it. . . despite my worst fears.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_NAfLjGDuI/AAAAAAAADNw/MUDtmnqlYUg/s800/P1000900.JPG

The head ports of the Steve head. (too bad there isn't a better name for these works of art; like "the muscle head of danger and excelence" (movie Year One reference). But, anyway, enough randomness . . .

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_NAgK29wPI/AAAAAAAADN0/PXzcrvO-tu4/s800/P1000901.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_NAhEDUXGI/AAAAAAAADN4/pOsVtbL70mg/s800/P1000902.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_NAh3FA7DI/AAAAAAAADN8/VetEx7wA6LA/s800/P1000905.JPG

They had to hone the wrist pin bushings a little but got the piston assembly put together.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_NAi6h-gwI/AAAAAAAADOA/GFVkZnLU1zQ/s800/P1000906.JPG

Rods with the ARP studs.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/S_NAjiLtQ-I/AAAAAAAADOI/TVNojOjKGSs/s800/P1000907.JPG

Shadowjake
05-20-2010, 10:19 AM
Here are some pics of when I pulled the engine back in 2007. I didn't have a cherry picker so . . .

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Rw12rrwguEI/AAAAAAAAB9w/ncm3BPRKiXM/s800/Summer%202007%20109.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Rw12r7wguFI/AAAAAAAAB94/WWAWeXHDHx0/s800/Summer%202007%20110.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Rw12sLwguGI/AAAAAAAAB-A/MJ9nBJL07BI/s800/Summer%202007%20111.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Rw12tLwguII/AAAAAAAAB-Q/aUeWxGb-6KE/s800/Summer%202007%20113.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Rw12uLwguKI/AAAAAAAAB-g/aDhrtEWY5T0/s800/Summer%202007%20115.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Rw12ubwguLI/AAAAAAAAB-o/Mo-ZbEh6Yhw/s800/Summer%202007%20116.jpg

Engine out. It was pretty filthy.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Rw12u7wguMI/AAAAAAAAB-w/bNvgDzLNM3Y/s800/Summer%202007%20117.jpg

turboshad
05-20-2010, 10:35 AM
That's one of the best engine pulls I've see yet, lol. Oh, and never too many pictures. If there are no complaints about the first two pages of my log then you have nothing to worry about. :thumb:

Shadowjake
05-20-2010, 11:20 AM
That's one of the best engine pulls I've see yet, lol. Oh, and never too many pictures. If there are no complaints about the first two pages of my log then you have nothing to worry about. :thumb:

I checked out your log and was in awe after the first page. You have some serious skills! I can't wait to read the rest of it. I might be asking you for advise in the future ;)

Shadowjake
05-27-2010, 12:38 PM
Livin' the High Life, I see. I always wonder when I see these teardowns, just how in the world do you remember where and which screws and bolts go where? There are like two million of them. I guess lots of labeled zip lock bags, and a lot of pictures. But man that looks daunting.

Great job so far!

Derek

Don't give me too much credit; I haven't gotten it back together yet :D

I and trying my hardest to label everything really well or thread things in where they belong so I don't have to remember everything. I'm taking a ton of pics too as you can see. I know I will run into some situations though where I will have to ask guys on here "where does this bolt go again?". But with a set of the factory service manuals I have and all the labeled bags, I should be ok. We'll see. . .

Tearing it down is easy. Getting it back together again is the tricky part.

Shadowjake
05-29-2010, 12:04 AM
Rebuilding the control arms.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TACHJr8ju9I/AAAAAAAADQY/OX4kM5medXA/s800/P1000930.JPG

I'll be puting poly bushings in that I received today.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TACHR7D417I/AAAAAAAADQw/-16V7JMHnWg/s800/P1000943.JPG


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbtLHldk9Us

I removed the stock rubber bushings.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TACHNLBUvbI/AAAAAAAADQg/k0HypTfCLB4/s800/P1000935.JPG


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMMno7kLHXk

removed the ball joints. I'll be replacing them with new moog ones. This is the first time I've ever used one of these vice presses and it worked really well. Hopefully pressing them back in works just as well.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TACHTwfLvTI/AAAAAAAADQ0/9clsemzrzlU/s800/P1000944.JPG

Ball joint out.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TACHV0F0hfI/AAAAAAAADQ4/nkWmYAi4DP4/s800/P1000946.JPG

Cleaning up the arms. Those 3M paint stripper pads are amazing.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TACHX1wHMfI/AAAAAAAADRA/D2W8niVNXB8/s800/P1000949.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TACHZvU1TWI/AAAAAAAADRE/oBhL59c98Ms/s800/P1000950.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TACHbgaKwtI/AAAAAAAADRM/mRnZ_MeHgpY/s800/P1000952.JPG

I plan to do some painting tomorrow. . .

135sohc
05-29-2010, 12:10 AM
Those universal balljoint press clamp kits are really nice to have, saved me countless times from lots of frusteration.

cordes
05-29-2010, 12:30 AM
Those A arms are looking really good. Thanks for taking the pics as you go.

rx2mazda
05-29-2010, 11:36 AM
Looking good! If you can afford it have them powdercoated intead. It will be worth it in the end. Rob does a good job with powdercoat.

Shadowjake
05-29-2010, 11:56 AM
This crossed my mind, especially with the cross member but I wasn't sure if it was worth the trouble of finding time to get it there and paying more. I did a search locally and EnviroTech (http://www.envirotechcoating.com/powdercoating.html) is right across the highway from me. I tried to call but are not open on weekends so I couldn't get an estimate.

Any idea how much I could expect to pay roughly for the sway bar, control arms, cross member, and other nuts/bolts/etc? If it is under a hundred it would be cool but if it would be 1-2-3 hundred, I could use that money more wisely in the restoration I think.

Shadowjake
05-29-2010, 12:16 PM
Based on their website it looks like they do really good work. Almost too good; I bet it would be expensive. Especially if Muscle Car Restorations lets them do their stuff. . .

check out this video! Awesome charger.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yEdRysVhMU

rx2mazda
05-29-2010, 02:50 PM
not sure but it will hold up to the elements way better. If you can afford it, great - of not, just paint it with something very durable. Might even look at some of those brush/roll on stuff that eastwood sells for the undercarriage.

135sohc
05-29-2010, 04:43 PM
I just painted a set of coil springs with this stuff I got at pepboys.
http://www.vhtpaint.com/epoxypaint.html

Havnt installed them yet but doing a scratch and chip test. Seems pretty durable so far.

Shadowjake
06-28-2010, 04:28 PM
I brought in the cross member, sway bar, and control arms to be powder coated on Friday. I mentioned this to my brother in law when we went fishing. He tells me that he could do it for free or cheap at his work since they powdercoat trailer hitches, roof racks, etc every day. He said black would be free.

I guess I know where I'll be taking the knuckles/hubs and the rear suspension components! Heck yeah! Hopefully it pans out.

Shadowjake
09-23-2010, 11:45 PM
Been a while since I've updated. Here are some new pics:

The newly powder coated cross member and control arms installed.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJjwUktuxzI/AAAAAAAADTQ/pIPowicBp8c/s800/P1010403.JPG


Engine bay needs a paint job bad. Looking for a place to bring it. Most are saying 400-500 bucks which seems reasonable but I am still looking around to see what I can find. Once the bay is painted, I'll be putting it back together.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJjwIEBab7I/AAAAAAAADSY/MEMTxMB-y8A/s800/P1010390.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJjwJORdyYI/AAAAAAAADSc/szK9io_Bonc/s800/P1010391.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJjwKV50gSI/AAAAAAAADSg/3C6tYNTe6vc/s800/P1010392.JPG

Here's the only rust on the car, under the rear hatch. Good ol' p-bodies.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJjwOKAVZuI/AAAAAAAADS0/Z4zN8AJa39E/s800/P1010396.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJjwMmXGbBI/AAAAAAAADSo/lSXEuFp2ecY/s800/P1010394.JPG

A shot of the driver corner as it sits now.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJjwSkIQOyI/AAAAAAAADTI/qFIbkRJv9S8/s800/P1010401.JPG

Here's the Rack after cleaning it up and repainting it. The crimps/kinks in the rubber baffles came out for the most part after sitting on the shelf for a few months. cleaning them with super hot water might have helped to reform them too.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJjwVRkKglI/AAAAAAAADTU/ZG81oBhI_7w/s800/P1010404.JPG

Shadowjake
09-24-2010, 12:09 AM
I went to TPI Specialties in Chaska, MN to pick up the assembled short block today. Wow, they do great work! After taking the micrometer after the rods, they had to re-work two of them. I got these reman's from Turbos Unleased a few years ago and Chris seems pretty good about this stuff so could this have been caused by sitting on the shelf too long? TPIS said it was probably from the rod studs not being torqued before the ends were honed. . . Still, doesn't seem like TU to make this type of mistake.

Anyway, they picked up where the last (crappy) shop left off and reinspected everything, checked all the clearances, made corrections as needed, assembled it and balanced the short block. They even painted it for me. $475 total for the work.

I drove 4 hours twice to go there and I will say it was well worth it. This engine should be dyno-mite.

Here are some shots of TPI Specialties' shop.

Big blocks . . . mmmmm.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJwY4qV9FZI/AAAAAAAADUg/KtCWN83hzWc/s800/P1010405.JPG

I was sucking water in my intake from all the rain we were getting so they let me pull the SRT4 into the shop to modify my intake so it took air from under the hood. A+ for customer service :thumb:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJwY8OIe8pI/AAAAAAAADUw/5MBCpV8SOFU/s800/P1010409.JPG

Really nice vette that was there. Seeing this makes my CSX seem so under powered :-)
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJwY7sVN1qI/AAAAAAAADUs/gN3F9RXaMIs/s800/P1010408.JPG

One with the Vette and my SRT4.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJwY6_FUOoI/AAAAAAAADUo/IEkWHY4NOgo/s800/P1010407.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJwY6KXE0KI/AAAAAAAADUk/TQeFGD_36iY/s800/P1010406.JPG

Here's Clay, one of the guys who helped build my short block. Hope he doesn't mind me posting this. I forgot to ask. Todd, if he does mind, let me know. He was VERY friendly and helpful.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJwY9gE1RCI/AAAAAAAADU4/fg9XSvY3J2E/s800/P1010411.JPG

Engine in the SRT4 trunk and on the road again. . .
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJwY8x02NAI/AAAAAAAADU0/IKStRpMPCj4/s800/P1010410.JPG

Engine mounted on the stand and in the spare bedroom for safe keeping away from the elements for the winter. You know your Fionce is a keeper when she lets you keep an engine in the bedroom :love:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJwZB9jV39I/AAAAAAAADVM/IcKwAPb4NiA/s800/P1010415.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJwZA-Yn0nI/AAAAAAAADVI/CQKNnKcl0qs/s800/P1010414.JPG

Like a gumdrop.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJwY_0LqsMI/AAAAAAAADVA/aKC_fa6B5GQ/s800/P1010413.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TJwY-uG3y4I/AAAAAAAADU8/6YRGHVHGEl0/s800/P1010412.JPG

Also, bought a replacement dip stick tube today for it too. 40 bucks from the dealer with tax. Must be getting more rare because I remember when these were less than 20 a few years ago. . .

135sohc
09-24-2010, 12:19 AM
Also, bought a replacement dip stick tube today for it too. 40 bucks from the dealer with tax. Must be getting more rare because I remember when these were less than 20 a few years ago. . .

List is $33, most dealers will charge full list + a percentage they choose to someone walking in off the street.

Shadowjake
09-24-2010, 12:25 AM
Yeah, he told me "the list price is 38" and tax brought it to 40. But what can you expect from the dealer? (no offense). Quality or rare parts cost lots of money.

135sohc
09-24-2010, 12:37 AM
Look around online and try to find a better price.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213975
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=214996

Local place I do alot of sales with price matches for anything under $100 no questions asked.

Shadowjake
09-24-2010, 12:49 AM
Good to know! Would have saved me almost 20 bucks if my dealer honored it. Next time I'll try it.

Shadowjake
09-28-2010, 04:15 PM
After posting my comment about the rods I got from Turbos Unleashed, Chris almost immediately sent me a message saying I could send them in and he would take care of any issues. He didn't care how long ago I bought them, he was willing to stand by his product.

I want to clarify, I don't know for sure there was anything wrong with them since I never personally seen the problem. These rods sat on a shelf for almost 2 years, went to a first shop that had questionable practices (losing parts, calling and asking for things I had already dropped off, etc.) and installed them on the pistons, then to TPI Specialties for the short block assemble after I pulled out of the first shop. For all I know, the first shop could have dropped two of them or done some thing to screw up the clearances when they had them.

I trust Turbos Unleashed and their shop and am confident they were done to standard when they sent them to me. And even if there had been a mistake years ago, the fact that they were willing to correct the "so-called-problem" years later really speaks volumes for their customer service.

I just wanted to clarify before the rumor mill starts going about their rods.

Shadowjake
10-12-2010, 08:13 PM
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTypb2lrxI/AAAAAAAADWA/cc7IdmSf3RE/s800/P1010594.JPG

Well, I finally got her on wheels! Just to go to the paint shop to get the engine bay sprayed though. The shop said they can make the engine bay like new for 500 bucks. I think I'm going to go that route.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTyqUetxWI/AAAAAAAADWE/hkymWQ6W1s0/s800/P1010595.JPG
I know I'm not supposed to roll it with no axles but I plan to replace the wheel bearings for good measure anyway.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTys84rm9I/AAAAAAAADWQ/7sNmNu6NdW8/s800/P1010598.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTyt7Vop9I/AAAAAAAADWU/2_TGkWhqn4Q/s800/P1010599.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTyu3TjRnI/AAAAAAAADWc/_YXFyu5doFE/s800/P1010600.JPG
Brand new Moog ball joints and tie rod ends. And I love the silver color the A-frames got powder coated. Far from original, but looks good.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTyvvEBRfI/AAAAAAAADWg/QGxlQiqYGAs/s800/P1010601.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTyxJxJOQI/AAAAAAAADWo/TuUViIiTjNs/s800/P1010603.JPG
One of the 3 fiberrides. I still can't find a 4th to complete the set.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTyyUkbn0I/AAAAAAAADWs/9FJOD4CCRCQ/s800/P1010604.JPG
Where all the magic happens.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTyzkWEBrI/AAAAAAAADWw/yXKXWO6Fqr4/s800/P1010605.JPG
Face off. The CSX looks like a car out of Mad Max with no fenders! I love it!

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy0juUPVI/AAAAAAAADW0/hNtFW-zyyN8/s800/P1010606.JPG
Koni adjustables on all four corners. I know it's not the stock Monroe suspension, but the Koni red looks so nice on there. And they handle amazingly.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy1u1NIjI/AAAAAAAADW4/DFGbB6rCnFE/s800/P1010607.JPG
I decided to go with the "cast" caliper paint. I like it better than gloss black and, although not totally original, it looks closer than any other color.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy2o4I5uI/AAAAAAAADXA/-3-ZTYbAqjg/s800/P1010608.JPG
Excuse the surge strip.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy3f3ENVI/AAAAAAAADXE/jbl0uIVP0n8/s800/P1010609.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy4q4VPPI/AAAAAAAADXI/p3mU17OquTM/s800/P1010610.JPG
Getting the hood latch powder coated might have been a bad idea. The moving parts were stuck together when I got it back. Now it moves sort of freely. We'll see if it sticks when I get it all put back together.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy5YiALCI/AAAAAAAADXM/uUrGLCthNU0/s800/P1010611.JPG
Where does this go again? I think it has something to do with the power steering lines. No sure though. My labeling skills have definitely improved since I started because of these situations. . .

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy6VY14mI/AAAAAAAADXQ/8MNSaBH2OIE/s800/P1010612.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy7Rn6soI/AAAAAAAADXU/gRFr7sxMpqQ/s800/P1010613.JPG
Here's a shot of the custom made, powder coated, progressive springs I got in the group buy back in 2005 or so. They handle amazingly paired with the Konis.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy8YyQdcI/AAAAAAAADXY/gea1hFZVLfI/s800/P1010614.JPG
Is the wind shield trim pretty universal on these? There is a big gap on the driver side top of the windshield on mine that annoys me.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy9JGWxkI/AAAAAAAADXg/Ga1POBlwauE/s800/P1010615.JPG
And the trim around the driver window doesn't stay flush because the channel the barrel connector is supposed to ride in is in bad condition. Is there a fix? How hard are these trim pieces to find? I know the window scrapers are almost impossible to find (but that is rubber).

cordes
10-12-2010, 08:27 PM
Make some axle stubs. It is possible, although not super probable that the bearing could separate and the wheel could come off.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=183

Windshield trim.

http://www.omnipotentparts.com/product_detail.htm#P body Windshield

135sohc
10-13-2010, 12:14 AM
That rubber cushion clamp goes on the p-side front steering rack bolt to hold the lines in place.

Reaper1
10-13-2010, 12:45 AM
Nice project!

beeblebrox82
10-13-2010, 01:10 AM
This is some awesome work here!! Just zipping through what you've done so far has given me some great ideas/tips.

Shadowjake
10-13-2010, 09:28 AM
Make some axle stubs. It is possible, although not super probable that the bearing could separate and the wheel could come off.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=183


I will only be rolling it onto and off of a trailer to get it to the shop for paint. I got simple green in them when cleaning up the knuckles and will need to remove the bearings to paint/powder coat them anyway. And I don't have spare axles so I would have to buy another set to make stubs. Thanks for the tip though. New bearings would be cheap insurance anyway I think though.



Windshield trim.

http://www.omnipotentparts.com/product_detail.htm#P body Windshield

Great! Thanks. I see they sell the windsheild wiper bushings too. Mine are very brittle. I'll have to drop Omnipotent a line. I appreciate the help Cordes!

Shadowjake
10-13-2010, 09:35 AM
That rubber cushion clamp goes on the p-side front steering rack bolt to hold the lines in place.


Nice project!


This is some awesome work here!! Just zipping through what you've done so far has given me some great ideas/tips.

Thank you all. It is starting to come along. Still a LONG way to go before it's finished though.

Shadowjake
10-13-2010, 11:30 AM
For the Grill support thing between the headlights I broke (header panel?), do you think this is the right part? The junk yard was saying it would be 80-100 bucks for a replacement.

1989 DODGE SHADOW SHELBY Header Panel (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1097805,parttype,819)

Seems too good to be true. . .

BTW, I really like Rock Auto's prices! I normally go to Advance Auto since it's near my house but after filling shopping carts at both sites for random stuff I will need, the advance cart was about 110 bucks and the rock auto one was at 78 bucks!

cordes
10-13-2010, 11:50 AM
For the Grill support thing between the headlights I broke (header panel?), do you think this is the right part? The junk yard was saying it would be 80-100 bucks for a replacement.

1989 DODGE SHADOW SHELBY Header Panel (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1097805,parttype,819)

Seems too good to be true. . .

BTW, I really like Rock Auto's prices! I normally go to Advance Auto since it's near my house but after filling shopping carts at both sites for random stuff I will need, the advance cart was about 110 bucks and the rock auto one was at 78 bucks!

I would call them to make sure of exactly what you are getting. If you need any shadow parts there are a few in a yard near me. I think there is an 89 and a 90'.

rich tideswell
10-13-2010, 01:47 PM
it's not it, Sherman carries that part, and its the corss hair grille for a regular shadow
http://www.shermanparts.com/ecat/base/search.php?s=CH1220108+

MNmopar
10-13-2010, 04:55 PM
Make some axle stubs. It is possible, although not super probable that the bearing could separate and the wheel could come off.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=183

Windshield trim.

http://www.omnipotentparts.com/product_detail.htm#P body Windshield

+1 Definitely do this, I had a bearing come apart when I was rolling my daytona (engineless and axleless) off of a trailer and it took me 45 minutes to move it with a jack and some pieces of wood 8 feet into the storage unit...:mad:

Shadowjake
10-13-2010, 05:36 PM
hmm. I didn't realize that this would happen under such short distances. Thanks.

Anyone have any axle stubs they want to sell me? What is a fair price for used axles from the yard if I go that route?

cordes
10-13-2010, 07:20 PM
hmm. I didn't realize that this would happen under such short distances. Thanks.

Anyone have any axle stubs they want to sell me? What is a fair price for used axles from the yard if I go that route?

I would pull the stubs and offer them $5 each. They will probably want 10-20 for an axle which is crazy talk.

Shadowjake
10-19-2010, 10:13 PM
Painted up the wiper linkage tonight. Is there anything wrong with using high temp primer/paint on parts that won't see heat?

I am still debating whether I should use the original axles to make the axle stubs. These axles are practically a dime a dozen right? And I work the same hours as the junk yards so it is hard for me to go get parts. I am thinking about making some with what I have and getting replacement (possibly stronger and cleaner) axles when the car is ready for them. It is the only thing holding it back from an engine bay paint job.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TL5Nc_YC_nI/AAAAAAAADZ0/_jovyGo_5js/s800/P1010638.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TL5Nb-2sYDI/AAAAAAAADZw/FcYbg9gO6LI/s800/P1010637.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TL5NaR6DSSI/AAAAAAAADZs/vAARbG3wYZw/s800/P1010636.JPG

86seeS
10-19-2010, 10:40 PM
nice project makes me wonder why i got rid of my 89. keep up the good work

cordes
10-19-2010, 11:25 PM
The axles are still quite plentiful in the yards and good rebuilt ones can be had also. I would do whatever is most convenient at the time.

rich tideswell
10-20-2010, 08:20 AM
is there any way you can join you axles together? like zip tieing a broom handle to them or some thing like that??

cordes
10-20-2010, 10:02 PM
is there any way you can join you axles together? like zip tieing a broom handle to them or some thing like that??

You can string them up in there, but when a guy is trying to repaint the engine bay I wouldn't suggest having the whole axle kicking around in there.

Shadowjake
10-20-2010, 10:09 PM
When he paints the bay, he said he plans to unbolt all the front suspension and roll it away to make sure there is no overspray or seams.

I plan to use the original axles to make stubs. But first I want to make sure:

All TD outer ends are the same.
All 87+ inners are the same.
All non L-body or Minivan lengths are the same.

I am sort of delaying the engine bay paint job because I might be buying a set of Fiberides from another member on the forum. If I do, i will have to wait a month or so (and there might be snow/salt by then which means spring). Once I see pictures of their condition, I will prioritize.

BTW, Cordez, what are you eating in your avatar? I have always wondered what that animation comes from or means. Is that you?

cordes
10-20-2010, 10:28 PM
When he paints the bay, he said he plans to unbolt all the front suspension and roll it away to make sure there is no overspray or seams.

I plan to use the original axles to make stubs. But first I want to make sure:

All TD outer ends are the same.
All 87+ inners are the same.
All non L-body or Minivan lengths are the same.

I am sort of delaying the engine bay paint job because I might be buying a set of Fiberides from another member on the forum. If I do, i will have to wait a month or so (and there might be snow/salt by then which means spring). Once I see pictures of their condition, I will prioritize.

BTW, Cordez, what are you eating in your avatar? I have always wondered what that animation comes from or means. Is that you?

The fitment of all outer ends are the same.

All Non-L body manual trans inners have the same fitment. The 88+ Omni auto trans interior pieces are the proper spline size.

All body styles except the L body and Minis share the same length of axle.

There are differences in the styles of the individual axle ends, but it is not a super big deal for the most part.


I am eating blueberries at another member's house pretending to be a sasquatch.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39636&highlight=sasquatch

Shadowjake
10-22-2010, 03:22 PM
I just set the appointment for the body shop. The CSX is getting picked up a week from tomorrow (next Saturday) for a fresh engine bay paint job. That gives me a week to make the stubs out of my axles.

I'm getting pretty excited. Once the bay is painted, I can start puting the wiring back in and then the drivetrain. It's so much nicer puting clean parts back together than it is to take greasy ones apart.

Anyone know where to get (by the foot?) the black plastic tubing that encloses and protects the wiring? What are the stock diameters?

DC Turismo
10-22-2010, 04:07 PM
You should be able to find that plastic wire wrapping (loom?) at any Advance or Napa store I'm sure. I usually pick up some here and there at the big shows like the Nats and Carlisle since guys sell it so cheap there.

BTW, ACE Hardware has "friction tape" that works really well for replacing that old scuzzy tape that always peeled off of our wiring haresses anyways. It's black tape and holds up very well. I redid my PT harness tape in it nd it looks 10x better. Just figured I'd mention it.

Shadowjake
10-27-2010, 08:54 AM
Here and I thought I would have to destroy my axles to make stubs! I made them last night and I just followed the procedure in the FSM. I should be able to slip the balls and stuff back together and regrease it when I don't need the stubs anymore and have fresh rebuilt CV joints, right?

Am I missing something?

cordes
10-27-2010, 06:54 PM
Here and I thought I would have to destroy my axles to make stubs! I made them last night and I just followed the procedure in the FSM. I should be able to slip the balls and stuff back together and regrease it when I don't need the stubs anymore and have fresh rebuilt CV joints, right?

Am I missing something?

You should be able to put them back together.

Shadowjake
10-27-2010, 11:04 PM
I got them all cleaned up and painted. Probably the nicest Axle stubs I've ever seen. Only the finest for MY Shelby ;)

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TMjmlcqzmPI/AAAAAAAADcM/Z-ijD0RD5zc/s800/P1010665.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TMjnKc8j4WI/AAAAAAAADcg/4ZomwAGJFHA/s800/P1010664.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TMjmmLVkYDI/AAAAAAAADcQ/Jc82A7sdWp4/s800/P1010666.JPG

Don't worry, the knuckles will be powder coated when I get the old bearings pressed out. A little rusty now (just from the last few weeks after wire wheeling).

cordes
10-27-2010, 11:21 PM
Those are the nicest stubs I've seen for sure. Nice work.

bfarroo
10-28-2010, 01:29 PM
hmm. I didn't realize that this would happen under such short distances. Thanks.

Anyone have any axle stubs they want to sell me? What is a fair price for used axles from the yard if I go that route?

Get some long bolts and washers and bolt them together.

Shadowjake
10-31-2010, 10:27 PM
Well they came yesterday to pick up the CSX and bring it to the body shop. The engine bay should be painted by Thursday or so.

I would have posted earlier but about a half hour after they came, my fionce was on her way to the hospital after getting in a horse accident. She got her hand wrapped in the lead rope when her horse took off on her. She lost everything past the first knuckle on her ring finger and her thumb was hanging by one tendon (the one that bends it down). After finding her finger tip, her riding partner drove her to the hospital. After 4 hours of surgery, they were able to reattach all the nerves and blood vessels. She'll be at the hospital for about a week healing.

Unbelievable how fast stuff like that happens but it is also unbelievable what doctors are capable these days.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TM4hMu6faJI/AAAAAAAADgg/h3rfD6LVMO0/s800/P1010689.JPG

But without further ado:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TM4gOa1lImI/AAAAAAAADgg/Zjsx8CX0jHw/s800/P1010678.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TM4gN84a1SI/AAAAAAAADgg/qAenFjmilX4/s800/P1010677.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TM4gNfDXmDI/AAAAAAAADgg/zB0Fv-oeLkM/s800/P1010676.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TM4gNBnAhNI/AAAAAAAADgg/rJgWqsyEDSI/s800/P1010675.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TM4gKg9kZ8I/AAAAAAAADgg/Fu2Na8yJUbM/s800/P1010668.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TM4gL56iYZI/AAAAAAAADgg/Eq7QMYCFEzM/s800/P1010672.JPG


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEhRupvyizg"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEhRupvyizg

Reaper1
11-01-2010, 08:29 AM
WOAH!!! I wish your fiance the best! I hope she heals up well and all is A-OK!

I also wish your project well! ;)

cordes
11-01-2010, 09:34 PM
Holy crap! I hope your fiancée comes to a full recovery. I also hope she is left handed. Wow...

Shadowjake
11-04-2010, 08:40 PM
Well I got the Shelby back from the paint shop today. It looks great! They painted it better than it was stock, the front of the radiator support, up into the exhaust area, the works! Here are some pics.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNNwqVCXDI/AAAAAAAADgw/RUcWG5Hq2L0/s800/P1010694.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNNx9I5SEI/AAAAAAAADg0/k2liO0ofgTs/s800/P1010695.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNNzQthLlI/AAAAAAAADhA/7zYRAWRVpPQ/s800/P1010697.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNN4zcnAeI/AAAAAAAADhQ/BPwG9Y8kwFw/s800/P1010701.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNN5zoxgpI/AAAAAAAADhU/1tZdmL2aOU8/s800/P1010702.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNN9ZuT2JI/AAAAAAAADhg/m9QQlpptvm8/s800/P1010704.JPG


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jj5MZKp0HyU"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jj5MZKp0HyU

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNN-sGhZSI/AAAAAAAADhk/49Qe2OyHkrc/s800/P1010710.JPG
Back Home again.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNN_Q7dbnI/AAAAAAAADho/foiSEVa2vlU/s800/P1010711.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNOBjDxorI/AAAAAAAADhw/HHwvjt-1B2g/s800/P1010713.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNOEdxX0uI/AAAAAAAADh4/cHKaBozACgo/s800/P1010715.JPG
They even re-painted the cowl so it's black again.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNOF7PlF_I/AAAAAAAADiA/w_fZB-aj_d0/s800/P1010716.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNOG5h30KI/AAAAAAAADiE/7Ve1AmUZo5c/s800/P1010717.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNOIBchDCI/AAAAAAAADiI/jbmcFxOuwOQ/s800/P1010718.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNOI1to6sI/AAAAAAAADiM/8wFqAkfeuYo/s800/P1010719.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNOJ1RcJaI/AAAAAAAADiQ/NyvlkHzjt-4/s800/P1010720.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNOM36bZXI/AAAAAAAADic/KL_ggX0s67Y/s800/P1010723.JPG
No more scratches! Good as new!

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNON7unQJI/AAAAAAAADik/x7I1lxCl7gA/s800/P1010724.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TNNOOnZc-cI/AAAAAAAADio/nA5x40SBI9A/s800/P1010725.JPG

cordes
11-04-2010, 10:35 PM
That looks really nice. Good job.

spaceman
11-05-2010, 04:26 AM
this is gunna be a really nice car when its done .your hard work really shows in the pictures ,makes me wish i wasnt a union worker and forced to wait for people to die or retire for me to make more money so i can do the same for my shadow

Shadowjake
11-05-2010, 03:26 PM
Thanks a lot guys! I want to do the best job I can because the car deserves it. I am doing my best to avoid half@$$ing anything but am also learning the "right way" to do a lot of things I didn't know before. The FSM and the guys on this forum are the best resources I could ask for. It wouldn't be going this well without them.

I am sure I will need a lot of help with the reassembly steps; early in the tear down I didn't label the bags as well I should have or my labels wore off the ziplock baggies. I learned later that permanent marker on masking tape stuck to the bag was much more durable for labeling.

cordes
11-05-2010, 04:37 PM
Thanks a lot guys! I want to do the best job I can because the car deserves it. I am doing my best to avoid half@$$ing anything but am also learning the "right way" to do a lot of things I didn't know before. The FSM and the guys on this forum are the best resources I could ask for. It wouldn't be going this well without them.

I am sure I will need a lot of help with the reassembly steps; early in the tear down I didn't label the bags as well I should have or my labels wore off the ziplock baggies. I learned later that permanent marker on masking tape stuck to the bag was much more durable for labeling.

You won't need the extra pieces. Trust me. :eyebrows:

Shadowjake
11-05-2010, 04:49 PM
You won't need the extra pieces. Trust me. :eyebrows:

Would that be called a high performance weight reduction? 100 lbs is worth 10 hp . . .:D

cordes
11-12-2010, 08:50 PM
Would that be called a high performance weight reduction? 100 lbs is worth 10 hp . . .:D

I think so.

In all seriousness though, you really shouldn't be left with any parts which don't have a home unless you mean to leave them out.

DC Turismo
04-02-2011, 12:56 AM
Quick question to the OP:

WHen you installed the KONI/Eibach combo, did you have to do anything with the rear bump stops? I know on my PT upon installing Eibachs, I had to trim the bump stops since the car was now lowered more than stock, even though on the PT the bump stops are all rubber, compared to our CSX's which are mostly metal with a rubber stub at the bottom. J/W as I have this same setup for my CSX and it's a question I had. LMK!

Car looks sweet by the way! I've watched your youtube vids, keep up the good work!

Reaper1
04-02-2011, 02:04 PM
I know I'm not the OP, but I've got a LOT of experience with your question. The answer is, that unless you lower the car an EXTREME amount, trimming the rear bump stops shouldn't be needed. IF you lower the car to the point where you do, then I'd suggest either stiffer springs, bag it, or you're gonna have to be modifying the front suspension a LOT to make it work correctly.

Shadowjake
04-06-2011, 09:29 PM
I just installed the oil pump and was going to do the front and rear main seals/retainers and CRAP, my rear main seal retainer is cracked! Either it got dropped or was cracked when uninstalling. I didn't even notice it until I pushed the seal in. It is a hairline fracture all the way through. How much should I expect to pay for a new one? Is this a junk yard part or would the dealer have one?

And DC, the springs are more than stiff enough to make up for the difference in the suspension. They are progressive springs so it is fairly soft at cruise but when more force is put on them (in cornering, etc.) they stiffen up and limit the compression a lot. Before the rebuild when I drove it pretty hard, I never bottomed them out.

135sohc
04-06-2011, 09:35 PM
I have a couple good used ones.

Shadowjake
04-13-2011, 04:46 PM
I have a couple good used ones.

I bought one from "tryingbe" and he has shipped it out with a crank pully bolt I was also missing. Thanks though!

I have been working on getting the wiring and other odds and ends back in the bay while I wait for the retainer. I painted my booster last night and I'll be installing the booster tomorrow probably.

I'll post new pics when I get a chance.

Shadowjake
04-17-2011, 12:43 AM
Well the rear main seal came on thursday. I got it from tryingbe and he shipped it right away and it was at my doorstep within 2 days!!! Thanks Man!

It is slightly different than my old one but it works. It is actually the same one pictured in my 1989 FSM. I wonder if both types were used at the same time or just certain years (1990+ ?) and Shelby just got his hands on the newer ones?

Here's a picture of the 2. My camera sorta does the wide angle effect so one looks smaller, but they are the same size. The one originally on the Shelby is on the right. The typical 1989 one I got from Tryingbe is on the left.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TapqTyBTPLI/AAAAAAAADnM/YLWNoj3KTeM/s800/P1020002.JPG

I got the main seals, intermediate shaft seal, and the oil pan installed today. It's starting to look like an engine again!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TapqNzZONhI/AAAAAAAADnM/rwHLCJdERcs/s800/P1020005.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TapqQkkqR8I/AAAAAAAADnM/zc3k16lO4P8/s800/P1020006.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TapqRdlDJNI/AAAAAAAADnM/PeTNnwcxlGA/s800/P1020004.JPG

I'm glad my fiance is willing to let me work on the engine in the spare bedroom! Keeps everything in the block clean and in a controlled climate until it is under the hood again.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TapqPr-DKJI/AAAAAAAADnM/2aRzrUDAbys/s800/P1020003.JPG

I have also been working in the garage and have gotten the wiring started, the brake booster installed, and a few other odds and ends. I know, I need to remove that heat shield again though because a brake line is routed behind it.

BTW, "Friction tape" works amazingly for rebuilding the wiring harness. I have already gone through 3 rolls but it is cheap and matches the factory cloth tape they use (minus the brittleness and fading).

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TapqLHsdnlI/AAAAAAAADnM/uUxFDPUPoig/s800/P1020010.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TapqTN8r2uI/AAAAAAAADnM/AUDzq5miRO4/s800/P1020007.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TapqT46xXKI/AAAAAAAADnM/RVzs05xGv1Q/s800/P1020008.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TapqQnhFkkI/AAAAAAAADnM/M-gdBFxivTM/s800/P1020011.JPG

Ok, so I ordered a replacement for the first picture and got the second picture. I think I should be able to get it to work. What do you guys think?

I'll just need to cut a few of the vertical supports and sand it flush . . . They told me anything from 1989 to 1992 was the same. I requested a header panel for a 1989 or 1990 sundance.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TapqScjw74I/AAAAAAAADnM/b0-67xYcAOk/s800/P1020014.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TapqO7cyXnI/AAAAAAAADnM/ekS64etNKNY/s800/P1020015.JPG

Shadowjake
05-02-2011, 10:58 PM
Decided to install new brake and fuel lines while it's fairly accessible. I am also working on installing the Walbro 255. I plan to do a write up on installing the HP fuel pump since I couldn't find one online. Here are some more pics from tonight.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sq5ZlG1I/AAAAAAAADqI/kLNPZTOb8wU/s800/P1020068.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9stnxCMhI/AAAAAAAADqM/CF13MB85xQk/s800/P1020069.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9suwTj_OI/AAAAAAAADqQ/eakDSWmBkGY/s800/P1020070.JPG

Now I just need to get this . . . .

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sJJn0hkI/AAAAAAAADqg/6eTDxy1cP_8/s800/P1020054.JPG

In here . . .

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sVCi1mRI/AAAAAAAADpY/hHCR-YeBZtk/s800/P1020059.JPG

Turbo224
05-03-2011, 12:14 PM
Meh, it's not as difficult as you might think. Doing a write-up on it would certainly help those who have never done it though.

Reaper1
05-03-2011, 07:43 PM
EEEWW!!! Are you going to do a decal delete kit on that pump and tank!?

Shadowjake
05-03-2011, 11:10 PM
EEEWW!!! Are you going to do a decal delete kit on that pump and tank!?

Reaper, I don't understand what you mean. what decals?

Reaper1
05-04-2011, 12:22 AM
Reaper, I don't understand what you mean. what decals?

LOL....sorry, that's something Jackson came up with called "Unit Dialect". Basically "decals" means rust....delete and install kits can be added to just about anything as you see fit, but Jackson is the master of this. If you ever get the chance to hang out with that crazy guy, DO IT! You won't stop laughing!

turbokid
05-04-2011, 03:30 AM
Love Jackson. Yes unit dialect install kit ftw

Reaper1
05-04-2011, 09:13 AM
Please let's not install the thread hijack kit, though! This guy is putting a LOT of effort (compared to most) to get this car right, and I'm enjoying watching his progress. The unit dialect just adds some "funny" to it...that's all!

Back to car building! :thumb:

Shadowjake
05-04-2011, 09:29 PM
Talked to Steve menegon today and my head should be back soon. He really went through it with a fine tooth comb so it should be solid. Also talked to Chris at TU and he's recommending a 6 puck clutch and purple plate for my setup. Also strongly considering the lightened iron flywheel. Do you guys think it would pay off over the stock one? Does it justify the extra couple hundred bucks? Can't wait to get the car on the road! Reassemby is so much better than the tear down was!

Reaper1
05-05-2011, 02:21 AM
I personally run a TU "race lightened" steel flywheel and a TU 6-puck purple clutch. I LOVE it! It is completely streetable, but will hold ANYTHING you can throw at it. If you do go that route, you won't be dissapointed. One word of advice...use blue loctite on the pressure plate and flywheel bolts! I didn't do that on the pressure plate bolts, and the backed out! :O I'd NEVER seen that happen before on ANY car, but hey, first time for everything and you learn. Just thought I'd pass along some wisdom gained from experience! :thumb:

Shadowjake
05-06-2011, 12:39 AM
Thanks for the tip! BTW, you got me all self conscious about my tank now. All because of you, I'm stripping it down to bare metal and returning it to it's original glory. I might even put a real decal on it just for fun. I have one of those windshield stickers from TD.com I ordered years ago that doesn't deserve a place on my car's exterior. But that site might deserve advertisment space on my gas tank. Just for you man! Thanks for your input.

This is my first rebuild and I am learning as I go. So anyone reading this, if you see something in this thread and think "that's not the way I would do it" or "this would probably work better", PLEASE PIPE IN! You might teach me something and make the restoration even better. I really think this community is one of the best ones on the net. The wealth of knowledge here combined with the sincere desire to want to help eachother succeed in the name of our favorite generation of cars really is priceless. It is hard to find on other sites. Just look at SRTForums once and you'll know what I mean.

You guys are frickin' awesome. Go team.

unluckyty
05-06-2011, 01:02 AM
Nice work on your restoration, thanks for sharing.
Helped motivate me to get going on mine.

Greg

Reaper1
05-06-2011, 01:47 AM
Thanks for the tip! BTW, you got me all self conscious about my tank now. All because of you, I'm stripping it down to bare metal and returning it to it's original glory. I might even put a real decal on it just for fun. I have one of those windshield stickers from TD.com I ordered years ago that doesn't deserve a place on my car's exterior. But that site might deserve advertisment space on my gas tank. Just for you man! Thanks for your input.

This is my first rebuild and I am learning as I go. So anyone reading this, if you see something in this thread and think "that's not the way I would do it" or "this would probably work better", PLEASE PIPE IN! You might teach me something and make the restoration even better. I really think this community is one of the best ones on the net. The wealth of knowledge here combined with the sincere desire to want to help eachother succeed in the name of our favorite generation of cars really is priceless. It is hard to find on other sites. Just look at SRTForums once and you'll know what I mean.

You guys are frickin' awesome. Go team.

LOL! That's kinda funny. I didn't mean to make you all selfconscious and such! I think you will be happy about the outcome and the result, though! :thumb: BTW, I know you can source the sealing grommet for the filler tube from aftermarket vendors, but it takes some searching. I'd HIGHLY reccomend replacing that while you're there as well. I think new fuel line also goes without saying.

One other thing is the fuel pump to top-ring hose. Make sure it is rated for being submerged in gasoline. There were problems a few years ago about people having those fail because the hose was in an environment it wasn't designed for. NAPA sells it by the foot, but they have to order it if I'm not mistaken....

135sohc
05-06-2011, 02:08 AM
The filler pipe grommet is still very available from chrysler, most dealers probably keep one stocked since apparently they are very popular and the part # itself goes back a few decades.

SAE-30R10 is the fuel hose rated for submerged use.

Reaper1
05-06-2011, 08:14 AM
^^ Thanks! I couldn't remember the hose number to save my life! I've got my receipt somewhere, but yeah, that would be like finding the holy grail in my mess of crap!

Shadowjake
05-06-2011, 09:03 AM
3078030779

Here's the tank's bottom after stripping it down and coating it with Sharkhide metal protectant. Hopefully that stuff lives up to its claims. We'll know in a couple years.

30781

For the fuel line, I just used the hose that came with the Walbro install kit. I am sure it is rated correctly or Cindy wouldn't have sent it to me. Here's a pic of it before sliding it into the tank.

30782

It didn't say anthing in the instructions about the pulse dampener installed after the pump besides "not all models" so I put it back in. Is there any benefit or drawback to keeping it/removing it?

Thanks for the tip on the filler tube grommet. I'll have to look into that. A new one couldn't hurt.

cordes
05-07-2011, 12:45 AM
You don't need the pulse damper. I figure it can only hamper flow or be a source of trouble so I leave them out.

Shadowjake
05-09-2011, 03:06 PM
spent 4 hours yesterday bending new fuel lines but got them all bent, bundled, and ready to install. What a PITA! I have one more brake line to do rear right and then time to install the lines and tank.

Getting the clutch and flywheel from TU soon (shipping out this week) and Steve said the head will go out in the mail today. I'm almost ready to drop the engine and tranny back in. My next challenge is going to be finding the best route for getting a calibration.

I had ordered one from TU back when paul was doing them but we all know how that panned out. Fortunately Chris refunded me my money no questions asked as soon as I requested it. And it has been 5 years since I ordered it. Awesome customer service! Chris said they plan to get cals back again soon but just incase that is what ends up keeping her off the road, what are my other options? I'm not too keen on tuning and burning my own because I'm afraid I'll screw something up. Ideally, I'd like to get a new cal shipped to me ready to go. But am afraid some of the cookie cutter staged kits available won't be 100%. I wish I would have been around back in the days when custom dyno tuned cals were available from TU. . .

What do you guys recommend?

Reeves
05-09-2011, 03:25 PM
Great thread! Enjoyed reading all 7 pages (while at work on a Monday :)

For a cal, what all have you done that isn't stock? I saw a Menegon ported G head and forged pistons.

Shadowjake
05-09-2011, 03:56 PM
Thanks James. I enjoyed reading your project log too a while back. How's that going?

The planned mod list is listed below. I have everything listed either installed or sitting on a shelf waiting to be installed.

INTAKE:
New T3/T4 Turbonetics turbo
- 50 trim or super 50 trim, can't remember it's been 6 years since I ordered it.
- Stage 2 turbine
- .63 A/R
- 3" swing valve

Steve Menegon Ported G head
- oversized valves
- stock roller cam
- stock lifters and followers

Stock 1 piece intake (would like to upgrade to 2 piece ported if I can find one)
Stock intercooler (planning to upgrade to Spearco 1080cfm unit eventually)
Stock Throttle body
** I know the intake side is going to be my biggest bottle neck so far. Suggestions are always welcome.

EXHAUST:
3" turbo back exhaust
- Cat delete
TU Hybrid header

BLOCK/HARDWARE:
+.020 Wiseco pistons
Refurbished TU TII rods
ARP hardware (head studs, main studs, rod studs)
short block was ballanced
Polybushings motor mounts and bobble strut

FUEL:
255 lph Walbro fuel pump
+40% fuel injectors
Accufab AFPR
Stock fuel rail
Stock size fuel lines 5/16 feed, 1/4 return (new)

I have 2 3 bar MAP sensors sitting on the shelf too. The car came with one after I ordered one. It had a VNT turbo with a FWD Performance VNT staged calibration in it when I got the car.

TRANSMISSION:
Rebuilt Hybrid A555
A520 int shaft and OBX LSD
TU 6 puck with purple plate
lightened flywheel

SUSPENSION:
Poly Lower control arm bushings
Poly Sway bar bushings
custom progressive springs (similar to eibachs)
Koni adjustable shocks and struts
Moog ball joints and tie rod ends

That's all I can think of off hand. Let me know if I am missing anything or if you want more details.

Reeves
05-09-2011, 04:07 PM
Contact Rob Llyod (Shelgame). He's on here and his website is www.boostbutton.com He can hook you up for sure with a cal!

Great build!

Reaper1
05-10-2011, 12:14 AM
The tank looks nice! :thumb: Where'd you find that protectant product and where can I get more information on it?

If you can still get at the pump, yank it out, and at least replace that worm gear clamp with an actual fuel injection hose clamp. Many people don't have issues with the worms, but I don't want you to be the one that does! As for the pulse dampener....meh. You've already cut the hose and such for it to be there, so jus tleave it. If it were me, I'd yank it.

Shadowjake
05-12-2011, 12:37 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voByil3EPho&feature=player_profilepage

unluckyty
05-12-2011, 06:48 AM
You'll need two of those extra CSX rims to mount a set of slicks on, if you intend to go to the drag strip.
Nice touch with the vid.

Greg

Reaper1
05-12-2011, 08:46 AM
I wouldn't mount slicks on Fiberrides. Although rare, there AHVE been cases of those wheels failing. Keep them for showing and such, but when you drive it, ride on something else...

Shadowjake
05-12-2011, 08:54 AM
Definately wouldn't use the Fiberrides at the track. I won't even drive on them unless it is going to a show. I have the pizzas for that. As hard as it was to find a replacement, I will guard them babies with my life. Figure 500 cars made x 4 rims each, there were only 2000 of them made. And MANY MANY were ruined by curb rash, cracking around the lugs from torque, etc.

Shadowjake
05-12-2011, 10:43 AM
Replacing the fuel lines.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctQ4dzRbSI/AAAAAAAADso/ah2ZhRDOWbk/s800/P1020102.JPG

After about 4 hours of tedious tube bending, here is the result.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctQ96M8ybI/AAAAAAAADsw/YRvJ1nfxpqE/s800/P1020103.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctQ6seuXHI/AAAAAAAADss/mhro-6uu7rA/s800/P1020104.JPG

I also pulled out some hardware from under the car to be cleaned up. Painted the e-brake hardware, heat shield nuts, fuel/brake line screws, and a couple clips. I also bought some new cushion clamps from the hardware store to secure the fuel lines. 1/2 inch seems to work the best.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctQ_8vxZUI/AAAAAAAADs0/UdNbw9h4TzY/s800/P1020106.JPG

New lines installed.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctRA-BlGHI/AAAAAAAADs4/OCp0ROZ51Oo/s800/P1020107.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctREFsQxyI/AAAAAAAADs8/VTeNZkA-2w4/s800/P1020109.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctRG59XgfI/AAAAAAAADtA/JczzqrSDHw8/s800/P1020110.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctRG84nAcI/AAAAAAAADtE/OxOMKcltOrE/s800/P1020108.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctRJ1ah6WI/AAAAAAAADtI/n9_zWZ6uhhw/s800/P1020111.JPG

Cleaned up/painted nuts on the firewall.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctROUdG_RI/AAAAAAAADtM/AZkrw1BxgRc/s800/P1020114.JPG

Here's a shot of the undercarriage. Pretty clean.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctRQMWwdSI/AAAAAAAADtQ/zoiIWvj3rho/s800/P1020112.JPG

The fuel lines look SOOOOO much nicer than the old ones! BTW, I think I taped this 90 degree angle in the wrong spot when I did the wiring harness. Where does it go?
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctRRv3AiII/AAAAAAAADtU/-I2yrb6BMUk/s800/P1020113.JPG

And what would a fuel line replacement be without a fresh filter?
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctRU95n6uI/AAAAAAAADtY/RhMKs0SAoac/s800/P1020115.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctRZmwK8_I/AAAAAAAADtg/eEFrLIJvlqo/s800/P1020116.JPG

Reaper1
05-12-2011, 12:02 PM
Looks really nice!

That plastic elbow on the harness is supposed to go down on the wheel well IIRC. I don't think mine is there anymore to check.

135sohc
05-12-2011, 12:48 PM
That plastic 90* trough goes in the corner of where the strut tower & inner fender meet, about 10" further down the harness.

Shadowjake
05-12-2011, 04:26 PM
I just found the old car domain site for the previous owner and he says "This is #68 of 500. This is not a recaro option car, but a wide tire option. It comes from the factory with 225 wide tires." They only made 2 CSXs in 1989 with wide tires and standard interiors right? If it is, that makes it even more rare. How do I confirm this?



http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2103088/1989-dodge-shadow

Shadowjake
05-23-2011, 11:41 AM
The tank looks nice! :thumb: Where'd you find that protectant product and where can I get more information on it?

Sorry, I missed this post at first. I saw it plugged on the show "two guys garage" and they were using it polished aluminum rims and trim pieces but said it could be used on any metal. I ordered some from eastwoods. It is expensive but if it works like they say, It should be worth it.

Amazon.com: Sharkhide Metal & Aluminum Protectant Quart (http://www.amazon.com/Sharkhide-Metal-Aluminum-Protectant-Quart/dp/B002W8MXTO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1306165204&sr=1-1)

So far I have coated my gas tank, exposed nuts/bolts, PS lines, steering rack, proportioning valve, head, main/int shaft seals, and a few other things. It should keep things looking clean and make cleaning easier. It's like clear coat but it doesn't chip. It is thinner than paint and doesn't change the texture of the metal like a layer of paint does.

Shadowjake
05-24-2011, 10:34 AM
A shot of the tank.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TctRZQtD-RI/AAAAAAAADtc/0uulSsI8Kuw/s800/P1020120.JPG

The TU header.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFc8pNxvI/AAAAAAAADvU/BQAKRwwD33I/s800/P1020125.JPG

The turbo.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFeGYukvI/AAAAAAAADvY/uphcfIN8tg8/s800/P1020127.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFkTINQtI/AAAAAAAADvg/l9ao4KXaZdk/s800/P1020129.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFliDH40I/AAAAAAAADvk/IN0D9-2YgO0/s800/P1020128.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtF1-BmslI/AAAAAAAADwE/38EN3uefH9I/s800/P1020136.JPG

The long block.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFlxVqL-I/AAAAAAAADvo/SIpKR21gZi8/s800/P1020130.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFordwDvI/AAAAAAAADvs/9gVS4cfgAUs/s800/P1020131.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFrzlQCYI/AAAAAAAADvw/9ovYkkkCIC4/s800/P1020132.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFuOu1cxI/AAAAAAAADv0/GyNAMbq6yCc/s800/P1020133.JPG
Some parts I will be cleaning up soon.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFfTmoDKI/AAAAAAAADvc/RzHN0CZvLpA/s800/P1020126.JPG

Shadowjake
05-24-2011, 10:34 AM
The 3" swingvalve from Turbos Unleashed.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFup0iQdI/AAAAAAAADv4/aYqNFFd0pD4/s800/P1020134.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFyvYlYoI/AAAAAAAADv8/-qhHxYD4owo/s800/P1020135.JPG

Header (with EGT probe) installed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtFz96czhI/AAAAAAAADwA/G61aA3e6IKQ/s800/P1020137.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtF4INiiFI/AAAAAAAADwI/nBVdJ5N3vzc/s800/P1020138.JPG

Turbo mounted.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtF63lH3cI/AAAAAAAADwQ/wFlk2uyZ54s/s800/P1020140.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtGAHQC10I/AAAAAAAADwU/4XhQWPE26gU/s800/P1020143.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtGAB4eRhI/AAAAAAAADwY/tA69YYbmwIg/s800/P1020141.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtGAnMpNXI/AAAAAAAADwc/1X2xoqMGTkw/s800/P1020142.JPG

Intake mounted.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtGF4aIxfI/AAAAAAAADwg/iwkrVEoEYvY/s800/P1020145.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtGJfglYSI/AAAAAAAADwo/1x6ADrH_9ZE/s800/P1020146.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TdtGKUR5PpI/AAAAAAAADws/pTtiqkCRt2A/s800/P1020147.JPG

cordes
05-24-2011, 11:13 AM
That looks great. You really need a two piece for that bad lad though.

Reeves
05-24-2011, 11:23 AM
Looks AWESOME man!

How do the welds on that header look? We had one of those that didn't have any weld penetration and all of them cracked.

---------- Post added at 11:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:17 AM ----------


That looks great. You really need a two piece for that bad lad though.

*cough* not really.

Shadowjake
05-24-2011, 01:01 PM
Yeah, the intake is definately the restriction right now. Reeves, can you elaborate? Down the road I'd like to get a better intake and intercooler but right now the goal is to just get the car running again.

I think having it running, broken in, and registered before SDAC is a pipe dream, but that is my goal motivating me to work hard on it right now. But with 2 weeks of Army training in June, that only really leaves 2 weeks to work on it.

Hopefully I can get the engine in this weekend. 4 day weekend with memorial day and an additional pass day!

Thanks for the props guys. It is really starting to come together and I'm getting pretty excited to turn the key (if I can find the darn thing).

Reeves
05-24-2011, 02:39 PM
Would be TOTALLY awesome to see it at SDAC!!!

And unless you are gunning for 11's....there's nothing wrong with that intake.

contraption22
05-24-2011, 02:53 PM
^^^ agreed. Even still, Steve M. went 11's with just a cleaned-up one-piece intake in a heavy car.

cordes
05-24-2011, 06:49 PM
I guess I just don't like the restriction the one piece has where the neck meets the plenum. Tons of people have gone fast with (or in spite of) them for sure though.

Shadowjake
05-24-2011, 11:35 PM
Yeah if I find a 2 piece for sale at a reasonable price, ill Nab it up. It would be ideal other than a custom plenum intake. Thanks for the input guys.

Started to put the tank back in tonight and what a pain without a hoist and Tranny jack. Came down much better than it is going up. After struggling with it for a while, I realized I need to pick up a bit of 3/16 fuel line for the evaporator first. Having a hell of a time getting the strap nuts started though.

Ordered the chip from boostbutton.com today. Still have to pay the guy though. Paypal sucks.

cordes
05-25-2011, 07:50 PM
Getting the gas tank back up can be the worst.

Shadowjake
05-31-2011, 11:44 PM
Been busy! I painted all my sprockets and pulleys, installed the distrubutor/cap/rotor, fuel rail with the +40%'s and AFPR, and a bunch of other stuff. I had to order a turbo drain back and SS turbo coolant lines from TurbosUnleashed.com or I would have installed the engine this weekend.

My camera died so I don't have pics, but I'll get some up soon.

BTW, why didn't anyone tell me I need to install the intake manifold first?! You A-holes! :-) Found out the hard way. All's good now. Can't wait to get the turbo lines hooked up and get her primed.

Also installed a stage 2 kit on my SRT4 tonight . . . had it in within an hour and it's fun. 1st gear traction issues for sure.

Until next time. . . .

ohlarikd
06-01-2011, 12:00 AM
BTW, why didn't anyone tell me I need to install the intake manifold first?! You A-holes! :-) Found out the hard way.
Until next time. . . .

I just did the same sh!t a few weeks ago... THAT won't happen again...

Derek

cordes
06-01-2011, 01:45 AM
Been busy! I painted all my sprockets and pulleys, installed the distrubutor/cap/rotor, fuel rail with the +40%'s and AFPR, and a bunch of other stuff. I had to order a turbo drain back and SS turbo coolant lines from TurbosUnleashed.com or I would have installed the engine this weekend.

My camera died so I don't have pics, but I'll get some up soon.

BTW, why didn't anyone tell me I need to install the intake manifold first?! You A-holes! :-) Found out the hard way. All's good now. Can't wait to get the turbo lines hooked up and get her primed.

Also installed a stage 2 kit on my SRT4 tonight . . . had it in within an hour and it's fun. 1st gear traction issues for sure.

Until next time. . . .

I think we let everyone do that! I know I did the first time.


I just did the same sh!t a few weeks ago... THAT won't happen again...

Derek

You'll live to regret those words...

ohlarikd
06-01-2011, 07:21 AM
You'll live to regret those words...

But I have SO many other things to do wrong first before I get around to that one again. I have already made about 245 other mistakes since that intake manifold.

But you're right, I don't know why I think I will remember that.

Juggy
06-01-2011, 08:15 AM
hey did you purchase the header, turbo, and swingvalve all in one shot through chris at TU?

the reason i ask....is because of the air filter scenerio. apparently there is ZERO ISSUES getting a CAI on a P body.....if you purchased everything from TU all at once, and you dont have room to get an air filter on....id seriously ask chris what the dealio is. because he said the problem people have when they use a TU header and a hybrid turbo that they are not purchasing the turbo from TU so there is a "mismatch".....

anyway def keep me updated on that...heres the infamous thread about it all. id def read it all!!! its pretty amusing the way the the thread goes actually. more bickering then anything, no real answers either!! thats why i asked if u purchased everything together.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?50416-Cold-Air-intake-for-TU-Stainless-Steel-header


just installed my old TU header on my buddies 91 shadow and he called me up wondering how he is ever going to get his CAI on the car with about an inch to 1.5" of free space between the turbo and the booster. oh yeah. his turbo came from TU as well.....so idk why it would not fit???

cordes
06-01-2011, 10:35 AM
didn't it come out that there a a couple different booster styles and one doesn't work with the TU header?

135sohc
06-01-2011, 11:39 AM
didn't it come out that there a a couple different booster styles and one doesn't work with the TU header?

Theres a single and double tandem booster. Most cars have the 'double thick' booster which sticks out considerably further than the standard single booster.

Shadowjake
06-01-2011, 12:12 PM
Yeah, I read that thread a while back and was concerned about it. I spoke with Chris and he said since the header and turbo were both purchased from him, he would stand by his product even though it has been about 5 years. He wanted me to let him know if I have any issues.

That thread is rediculous and reading it was exhausting with all the bickering and smart @$$ remarks. When I get the engine in, I'll post up pics of how everything fits.

omni_840
06-01-2011, 03:09 PM
WOW! I just re-read your build thread, very nice work:)

Shadowjake
06-01-2011, 06:47 PM
WOW! I just re-read your build thread, very nice work:)

Thanks Brendhan! I'm trying to do a quality job. I appreciate the kind words!

Juggy
06-02-2011, 12:09 AM
Yeah, I read that thread a while back and was concerned about it. I spoke with Chris and he said since the header and turbo were both purchased from him, he would stand by his product even though it has been about 5 years. He wanted me to let him know if I have any issues.

That thread is rediculous and reading it was exhausting with all the bickering and smart @$$ remarks. When I get the engine in, I'll post up pics of how everything fits.

yep that thread ran in circles and jumped through hoops, well there shouldnt be issues if u got everything from him. nice to know he will stand by after so long! im sure there are many people awaiting pics of the install :) i believe it was the SS model that stuck out a tad further? maybe u will get lucky...if you only plan to run a 2.5" CAI to feed that turbo...

Shadowjake
06-02-2011, 12:48 AM
Installed the water pump tonight. Camera is at my parents' house or I'd post pics. I'll post pics of the longblock soon.

Shadowjake
06-05-2011, 11:41 PM
Now I'm at annual training for the National Guard for 2 weeks so there won't be any progress on the car til the end of the month. 2 weeks is going to feel like forever now that I'm so close but better than a deployment I guess.

Got the turbo drain tube, braided coolant lines, and support bracket from Chris yesterday so I should be all set to prime it and drop it in. He even threw in a nice wire stripper and squeege. Thanks man!

Mike M
06-05-2011, 11:51 PM
Jake the buildup looks awesome!

Just wanted to throw my two cents in on the head/turbo fitment. I've had a TU header for years (one of the first actual batch) and as expected really, had to do some custom work with my S70 turbo (had it prior to the manifold) - being I used the GN compressor housing I had to fabricate myself an inlet that made a sharp bend to clear the booster. This year I have upgraded to a T04E 50 trim hybrid purchased from TU (talking with him he informed me that there there was a lower profile compressor cover and that I will be getting one to ensure proper fitment. Well... it fits perfectly with a standard 3" silicone elbow (not even one of those gibbled ATP shorty radius bends or whatever).

Check out my build for pictures! http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?59363-88-Lancer-Shelby-better-faster.

Shadowjake
08-02-2011, 02:07 PM
I got a support bracket for the turbo and realized it won't work with the TU header. Will bad things happen if I don't have this support bracket? The welds on the SS header look strong. Just asking here for peace of mind.

I'll probably put this support up for sale. New from TU.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p4vqF2Pu2BY/TgpEXg5QSiI/AAAAAAAAD2M/Lb8EyYXCyJE/s800/P1020244.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zuoiy50QhAY/TgpEZTuK5aI/AAAAAAAAD4A/7RlLiRxV9zQ/s800/P1020246.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-40wWmN4N00o/TgpEaBfR83I/AAAAAAAAD2U/N2DGAQliFVw/s800/P1020245.JPG


I also realized (duh!) that the stock drain back tube won't work with the TU header. Chris hooked me up with one he had laying on the shelf and now I'm all set.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZQbX7bxHIuQ/TgpEgRgX_dI/AAAAAAAAD2Y/EmntKSaEi5Y/s640/P1020247.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XvmJy1KuEzk/TgpEozXlVHI/AAAAAAAAD2k/AfKXOsz2EfQ/s800/P1020250.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lDJpYmnGKlk/TgpEqkefvHI/AAAAAAAAD2s/1jwULGGoR9I/s800/P1020252.JPG

I also found an old T1 Lebaron in the yard and pulled some odds and ends I needed. It's the ONLY turbo dodge in my area's yards! They all crushed pretty much anything older than 2000.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZUoBfBgjDRg/TgpEAB9FSbI/AAAAAAAAD1s/jdEhPCNGDUg/s800/P1020234.JPG

It's got a set of pumpers if anyone wants the center caps.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yprR1GqYzpU/TgpEHCYiEaI/AAAAAAAAD10/9VW04C0doZc/s800/P1020237.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1Vzrcb2kInQ/TgpD5ErNJUI/AAAAAAAAD1k/TxHVixwdBCI/s800/P1020232.JPG

ohlarikd
08-02-2011, 02:26 PM
For the support bracket, just get a chunk of aluminum from Lowes or Home Depot, drill some holes, and bolt it in to bridge that small gap. I would use that bracket. Hitting bumps, etc., may weaken the joints, etc. without support.

Derek

cordes
08-02-2011, 04:51 PM
You shouldn't need a support bracket.

Also, those look like 16" pumpers. You should get them. If you don't get the wheels, get the CS caps at least. They are worth money.

Reaper1
08-03-2011, 10:35 AM
With the cast manifold i'd say don't worry about it, but being that's the welded one, I suggest using a braxcket of some kind. Those are easily modified or fabricated.

Shadowjake
08-29-2011, 12:00 PM
So I got all of my motor mounts and a few other odds and ends powder coated. . . for free! My brother in law just put them on the assembly line at work where they make trailer hitches. Sweet!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q7mAn7lESqc/TlRW02A8-GI/AAAAAAAAD4M/Rc0VdDJBZ8A/s800/P1020254.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5LaegSoZgc8/TlRXl_z_cMI/AAAAAAAAD4k/QWcJLx4MINk/s800/P1020255.JPG

But I think I screwed up my SBEC. . .

I was removing the old chip and didn't have a diagonal cutters so I thought I could "carefully" use a dremel. Well, I nicked a trace. How important do you suppose this path is? Is it repairable? Or should I look into a new SBEC now. . . Please let me know if I should even bother socketing this one. . .

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yz4MevSFPc8/TlRhST8B9MI/AAAAAAAAD48/hRN_vgnLMis/s800/P1020318.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qfwAUkWI2Vw/TlRhR1_uwqI/AAAAAAAAD44/POuEaZsBOow/s800/P1020317.JPG

And to make matters worse, I broke a pin off on the new chip I got from Rob! I was thinking about trying to just tin the leg that's left with a piece of wire and hope for the best.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LW08i5V5-9M/TlRhBOACdII/AAAAAAAAD40/R4fpBe5m9HM/s800/P1020321.JPG

Directconnection
08-29-2011, 12:41 PM
I can't speak on behalf of socketing sbec experiences... but I've repaired circuit boards by simply jumpering that tracer as you call it with wire. (in home electronics) So, I'd think the same could work here for you as well.

Shadowjake
09-05-2011, 11:07 PM
Well, good news. THE ENGINE IS IN! I'll post more pics tomorrow but here's a teaser.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5d2gD74TDRA/TmWMFwY5QEI/AAAAAAAAD8g/8fAiHRBN2NA/s800/P1020375.JPG

Shadowjake
09-06-2011, 12:15 PM
I got the engine hoisted off the engine stand and bolted on the TU lightened flywheel.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vi2nnNnym0I/TmWKmBnMf3I/AAAAAAAAD5M/ODhopphJHqw/s800/P1020322.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i5G5T8GrESA/TmWKpVbmxbI/AAAAAAAAD5Y/MroHbUsMvQw/s800/P1020323.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6snaD5h4zew/TmWKuQn6leI/AAAAAAAAD5g/PaYY3Rwr0pM/s800/P1020324.JPG

Before hoisting it, I got the oil pump primed and the timing belt installed. I got the lower timing belt cover from "ChryGuy" on this forum. GREAT SELLER! Thanks again for the help.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rQBH-NshFls/TmWKvcVOfiI/AAAAAAAAD5k/mp74SAuoAF4/s800/P1020326.JPG

I decided to go with the 6 puck and purple pressure plate from TU based on reviews I have read on the forums and recommendation from Chris Wright. Looks to be a stout piece and the pressure plate has very nice pedal feel.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-od1I_ZmPTaA/TmWK0bSkDVI/AAAAAAAAD5w/DumFXRQLWBA/s800/P1020328.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ADLaG-OuFl8/TmWLK_Z-JqI/AAAAAAAAD6U/eSE7qckKhAI/s800/P1020330.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_1tyLdLFqWg/TmWK6xa9OwI/AAAAAAAAD58/kk-daH2vX5I/s800/P1020333.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-37Q-2Jw3vWo/TmWK8ZYUdcI/AAAAAAAAD6A/ytoEOlqNXl8/s800/P1020334.JPG

Here are a few pics of the the garage I'm rebuilding it in. Less than ideal, but I gotta work with what I have. . .

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BOlqD5EV6n4/TmWLAEwDruI/AAAAAAAAD6E/Cfbo8jUJnxA/s800/P1020336.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RwmnIX86PeA/TmWLB5xYYWI/AAAAAAAAD6I/dfZLxbZ0LIc/s800/P1020337.JPG

After about an hour and a half trying to stab the transmission on, it finally slid in and lined up. I must say though, it was much easier to stab outside the vehicle rather than installing them individually and trying to line them up in the bay. That's how I did it last time and it was a pain. Not to mention, I would have scratched the paint for sure.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EVClh5fIS3g/TmWLGdWU-vI/AAAAAAAAD6M/ootjpPCmOCo/s800/P1020339.JPG

I tried to weld on an extension to the original turbo support bracket so it would line up while using the hybrid header. Good news is it fit perfectly. Bad news is I totally forgot that the starter needed to go above it and the extreme angle interfered with it. So I decided to go a different (and very easy) route. I tok a chunk of 3/8" steel and made a bracket that would bolt to one of the bell housing bolts rather than the perpendicular hole in the block. Other than having to make a groove in it to clear the drain back tube, it was almost effortless and works great!

Here you can see the old one vs the new one.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_8L-5hDZYdE/TmWLKTqQpeI/AAAAAAAAD6Q/oFJ8PsHhzH0/s800/P1020345.JPG

All painted up.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q_PKje8KOAs/TmWLSagklVI/AAAAAAAAD6s/17kAfQcuoyc/s800/P1020350.JPG

And installed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FX2nO0moXAY/TmWLoD3xobI/AAAAAAAAD7g/IqZMCuP4w9s/s800/P1020362.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TCIhuDOvZlg/TmWLmjd_G-I/AAAAAAAAD9E/vyD9at87Vj8/s800/P1020363.JPG

I wrapped the starter with some heat shield and got it installed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o5HnPzIro54/TmWLpDkhBTI/AAAAAAAAD9U/mlhUAuXdQRw/s800/P1020364.JPG

I decided to use some of the extra heat shield I had to shield the 2 intake runners directly above the turbo. It seems like a good idea but have never saw anyone do it here. Are there any disadvantages to this? Will it cause the AFR to change in these 2 cylinders? I always get nervous trying new things if it hasn't been tested/proven by someone else first.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7WOKRRZ0Z54/TmWLuaLw8KI/AAAAAAAAD7o/bPgSutv7d1g/s800/P1020365.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4srRO7tFqpU/TmWLvmXg-1I/AAAAAAAAD7s/Pyr7617hiz4/s800/P1020366.JPG

Shadowjake
09-06-2011, 12:15 PM
Finessing it in. BTW, I will never drop in an engine without an engine leveler again! That thing, combined with the swivel on the chain, took all the work out of it.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yMIzBqu1ogQ/TmWLxcMnJBI/AAAAAAAAD70/PsK-2yKl6zc/s800/P1020367.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n-N2M23LnCk/TmWL2OJPgNI/AAAAAAAAD78/A_Nm071_ESY/s800/P1020368.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qGqnN8zE9YA/TmWL3kG7jqI/AAAAAAAAD9c/faLdfUois_I/s800/P1020369.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1ygf0xIlAnk/TmWL4kDt4AI/AAAAAAAAD8I/n6DkwyT17aM/s800/P1020370.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SLvWcYO1geo/TmWMAbM6sXI/AAAAAAAAD8U/9v0i2iijNeQ/s800/P1020372.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ah5zHJ4Pusc/TmWMEwqLrtI/AAAAAAAAD8c/D5g2xSSsPgE/s800/P1020374.JPG

Next up, 3" turbo back exhaust with magnaflow muffler, finish up the wiring cleanup/loom, plumb the intercooler/intake, finish the brake lines I've been putting off, and find the dang key I can't seem to find. Stay tuned.

Also, for the record, it looks like a 3" silicone gradual bend 90* elbow will fit just fine between the turbo and brake booster on my car. I've ordered the elbow and will post pics when I get it installed.

Reaper1
09-07-2011, 06:38 PM
Nice job! :thumb: You'll LOVE the TU clutch! I REALLY like your turbo support bracket!

A tip for you if you ever have to mess with the transmission again: make an alignment pin out of a bolt that goes in the top bellhousing hole nearest to the front of the engine bay. Do this by getting a bolt that is actually longer than what you need, cut off the head and slot it for a flathead screwdriver.

Now, when you go to install the transmission, screw in the alignment pin. Lift the transmission up and slide it on the pin. *BIG HINT* Lift the light part of the transmission up FIRST, then rotate the diff side up while the transmission is on the pin, then you can slide it on the engine! Having 2 people will help, but 1 person can do it if you are strong enough or have the right tools.

I like the heat barrier on the underside of the intake. I'd personally suggest doing the rest of it as well. I've seen a few people do this, but it's not too common.

Shadowjake
09-15-2011, 12:09 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUCUR3i3mdQ

cordes
09-15-2011, 12:25 AM
Thanks for the video update. It's amazing how far we've come on that front in the last couple of years.

Keep at it and take your time. I would make sure everything is right before rolling it out of the garage. You should just beat the motor mercilessly at low boost to break it in anyway.

Shadowjake
09-15-2011, 12:21 PM
I bought the replacement "Precision" CV boots from Rock Auto and they are PERFECT. O'Reilly can get them too overnight usually. They are identical to the OEM boots from what I can tell. Part# 7406 for GKN outer CVs, #7407 for the left inner, and #7408 for the right inner (not sure the difference yet). They even come with the correct clamps, a replacement circlip, and cotter pin for the outers. The inners are on their way but I expect them to be equally as nice. Don't settle for the Dorman "quick boot" or other universal ones when you can get these for about the same price.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b56g_taYhdA/Tm8H8HewhNI/AAAAAAAAD-Q/aPwj1xkvTMA/s800/P1020376.JPG

Here is the old OEM boot compared to the new Precision boot.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OOko96OLNdQ/Tm8H7CEAuhI/AAAAAAAAD-M/mbNYnAsiZco/s800/P1020377.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BdLw1mrPCCo/Tm8ISHkSnoI/AAAAAAAAD-U/GU7BW00Rayw/s800/P1020378.JPG

Anyway, enough advertising :eyebrows: Here are the Axles as I was rebuilding the outer joints. My suggestion to anyone doing this: Only lightly grease the surfaces of the balls/cage before installing the balls in the outer housing. I made the mistake of greasing it up completely and then trying to install the balls. WHAT A MESS. Also, When the cage and cross are installed and you need the assembly tilted so you can put a ball in, maneuver it by pushing the legs of the star and the cage will react too. Trying to push and pull on the cage (outside ring) doesn't work and it just binds up.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-w7aK4x1DKIc/Tm8IXUdJLVI/AAAAAAAAD-c/0lpgGO6JzEo/s800/P1020379.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FoQSw9SgSUI/TnFpqd6Mc5I/AAAAAAAAD_s/oTi4Ww6u3sA/s800/P1020383.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qjchao3IjOk/TnFqdD3IDsI/AAAAAAAAD_s/oBaCYELlEkU/s800/P1020394.JPG

Shadowjake
09-15-2011, 01:20 PM
Here's the 3" 90* Silicone coupler I got from ATP Turbo (http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-SIL-064&Category_Code=SIL-90EL). I later realized it would have been much cheaper from Turbos unleashed (http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/inch-degree-silicone-hose-bends-black-p-296.html) but it's a very high quality piece so I'm not worried.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MbAHKHXmLWM/TnFpqM_ZOxI/AAAAAAAAD_s/3JPA3yxzIec/s800/P1020384.JPG

To make it fit, I had to lop off about an 1.5 inches from one leg.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NK1sBOHm60E/TnFp5H2stRI/AAAAAAAAD_s/NR1LQvlsgyI/s800/P1020385.JPG

Installed, it just barely rubs the booster but it will work. I still have no Idea how I'm going to get my heater hoses to the lower heater core inlet! The wastegate actuator is about a quarter inch from it. I'll have to figure something out (no heat maybe) but I see others have had this issue to. Hopefully I can get rid of the mess of fittings feeding the turbo oil and clock the wastegate bracket.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zAm9tff1yPc/TnFp8j5IlSI/AAAAAAAAD_s/PIUndfww27w/s800/P1020386.JPG

v--- This mess of fittings for the oil feed going into the turbo housing is preventing me from clocking the wastegate. Does anyone know what size fittings/adapters I would need off hand? I always get confused by sizes and terms for NPT, AN, etc.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dLriv_NpY04/TnFp8gVsj6I/AAAAAAAAD_s/Uz28nU7HsfI/s800/P1020389.JPG

Here are the coolant hoses and belts I got from Advance Auto Parts. The lower radiator hose listed under "1989 Shadow Shelby" was the wrong one and is for a non-intercooled vehicle. I ordered one for a 1989 Daytona Shelby instead and it will be in today.

The "top cog" power steering belt is incorrect also. It is too short. It lists this 41" belt in the system but the car needs a 43". I will be returning it for a Dayco Part# 15430 belt which should be correct.

Other odds and ends include the alternator/waterpump belt, upper radiator hose, 5/8" coolant line for the heater valve and return line to the head, hose clamps, and the molded hose from the water pump to the heater valve.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XOcruEpk63A/TnFqLL7Tp1I/AAAAAAAAD_s/M3_B7zLjSuo/s800/P1020390.JPG

The belt on the left is correct (and a very nice belt). The V-belt on the right is not.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_1Fvu5qdD5o/TnFqNcNO72I/AAAAAAAAD_s/cCgnPQHZfE4/s800/P1020391.JPG

Here are the 2.25" t-bolt clamps for the intercooler plumbing, the 3" hose clamps for the intake, and the 2" T-bolt for the turbo outlet.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2iYrHaRtG7w/TnFqQGVKZ2I/AAAAAAAAD_s/K9koMTW95is/s800/P1020392.JPG

And here are the silicone couplers I got for the intercooler plumbing. On the left is a 2"-2.25" transition for the turbo outlet, the 90* is for the intake, and the hump hoses and 2.25" coupler are for the hot and cold pipes.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EMNaQvELHZ4/TnFqbBNEeZI/AAAAAAAAD_s/Nto6DxRYbG0/s800/P1020393.JPG

Rusty nuts. Damn critters.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J_7602n9JpA/TnFqcoCyEQI/AAAAAAAAD_s/BIhg9WRe7Eo/s800/P1020397.JPG

Shadowjake
09-15-2011, 01:35 PM
Also, In case anyone wants to download or view the high resolution images from my build, here is a link to my picasa album:

JAKE'S 89 CSX REBUILD WEB ALBUM (https://picasaweb.google.com/shelbycsx/89CSXRebuild?authuser=0&feat=directlink)

135sohc
09-15-2011, 05:09 PM
Did you just regrease/reboot the joints or did you actually replace the internals with new parts ?

Shadowjake
09-15-2011, 05:14 PM
Just cleaned them really well, inspected them, and regreased and rebooted. I did what the FSM says and they look to be in good shape still.

Shadowjake
09-27-2011, 11:02 AM
Time to regrease and re-boot the inners. It was a little more difficult but not too bad.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w1yHqoXhVQE/Tn6-3mfy92I/AAAAAAAAEBs/wYs5OdCpMms/s800/P1020398.JPG

One thing I would suggest is to leave the clamps loose until the axels are installed on the car so you can vent any air trapped in the boot. When the inners are compressed they can build pressure. Luckily I could vent the air by gently prying a small flat head screwdriver under the seal and letting the air out.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f4ra1HI-EdY/Tn6-3mRFypI/AAAAAAAAEBw/4ivoDgocCHs/s800/P1020399.JPG
^--- Another problem I ran into was when installing the driver side axel into the car. The crimp on the large CV clamp hit the transmission when I rotated the axel until I hit it with a hammer a few times to flatten it out. This pic is before I flattened it.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xbzip6JAFsY/Tn6-vTXNrxI/AAAAAAAAEBk/LbPfZ2IvTYw/s800/P1020401.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IG-7nn7nty4/Tn6-3DmAyOI/AAAAAAAAEBo/oA2SBKcuRQA/s800/P1020402.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-spOZ5Jhvoxs/Tn6-6bBVAlI/AAAAAAAAEB0/OaWnKwKvmqc/s800/P1020404.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gVP-bUvc-e8/Tn6_AeONFBI/AAAAAAAAEB4/XnHMfaAr7s0/s800/P1020406.JPG
^-- These are the boots I ordered and they were perfect. I couldn't figure out the difference between the left and the right though.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zfmu6ObLU9E/Tn6_HI23D0I/AAAAAAAAECE/Ds9ndbB6tgA/s800/P1020411.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bdYxQgaKPNk/Tn6_TFgSx-I/AAAAAAAAECY/y6_P4tffeXs/s800/P1020414.JPG
Getting the parking brake cables installed.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4eaDDY6eOF8/Tn6_PnuvdrI/AAAAAAAAECQ/kEWrehd7nqg/s800/P1020412.JPG
The old ones were pretty rough.

All new parking brake cables and cleaned up heat shield installed.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pSglBg5VFSw/Tn6_cZB1WMI/AAAAAAAAECk/tDiaVTBOJQ8/s800/P1020418.JPG

Cleaning up the rear calipers.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h0r4f5O9IVQ/Tn6_Y9hDf1I/AAAAAAAAECc/8mhTyBsCSzI/s800/P1020415.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jqPHBJpihEA/Tn6_wQC4a5I/AAAAAAAAEC4/wcYIXefKvbw/s800/P1020454.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qCQ7c7UHj_M/Tn6_w6fvF5I/AAAAAAAAEC8/Wu485tfEREc/s800/P1020455.JPG

The rear hubs were rusted SOLID to the rotors. What a PITA. I let them soak over night with PB Blaster, heated them up, and had to use a pneumatic hammer to get them apart.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b81xa103PLo/Tn6_b_SedyI/AAAAAAAAECg/ra2LNdxvGMs/s800/P1020416.JPG

Got new rotors from Rock Auto. Arrived at my house within 2 days! Decided to paint all non-friction surfaces to keep them from turning orange right away.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-R32PMP6n5GQ/Tn6_kTFOjXI/AAAAAAAAECo/JS2j0CuESzU/s800/P1020446.JPG

Painted them "cast iron" with 500* paint so they look natural and hopefully it stands up to the heat.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JT0_BxLe1t8/Tn6_lRStp3I/AAAAAAAAECs/H1W7MqATtI8/s800/P1020447.JPG

I decided to use some titanium thermal wrap on my down pipe to help protect my shift linkage that shares the space. Are there any performance disadvantages to this if my turbine housing or exhaust manifold are not coated?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HIRpAfUC8mg/Tn6_m3iBd4I/AAAAAAAAECw/xlFSi7qLmLQ/s800/P1020451.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BHMytXKHB-Y/Tn6_vZYFSYI/AAAAAAAAEC0/nes48X8QYgs/s800/P1020453.JPG

Shadowjake
09-27-2011, 11:13 AM
Installed the spark plug wires.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hnpHEkHcCjI/Tn6_Ko3DkLI/AAAAAAAAECI/yia-C8EUcVY/s800/P1020409.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gDn73KRv_q4/Tn6_LKVGyCI/AAAAAAAAECM/W2MHaERrIYo/s800/P1020410.JPG
^----Is there anywhere I can buy just a red magnacore coil wire? The one from the car is missing the boot and the connector is really mangled. I tried using an end from one of those Accel universal plug wire kits and the connectors are pretty loose and poor quality. I would hate to have to drop the cash for the whole set when I just need one small part.

Reaper1
09-27-2011, 11:49 AM
The only issue with the thermal wrap I've ever heard of is that it can hold moisture and can cause the pipe to rust if it isn't stainless or not coated. Supposedly the protective spray they sell is supposed to help with that.

rich tideswell
09-27-2011, 04:44 PM
Is there anywhere I can buy just a red magnacore coil wire?[/SIZE]

PM Rich Bryant, I think he deals with MSD, but might be able to help you out..... OR TurboVanMan, he deals with Aura, or something like that......

Turbo224
09-27-2011, 10:39 PM
No offense, but the blue cap looks pretty bad. Are you going to be covering it?

cordes
09-27-2011, 11:44 PM
The only issue with the thermal wrap I've ever heard of is that it can hold moisture and can cause the pipe to rust if it isn't stainless or not coated. Supposedly the protective spray they sell is supposed to help with that.

+1 It tends to rot stuff out quickly in my experience.

ucku
09-28-2011, 09:42 AM
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m248/ucku/Picture075.jpgi drive my car every day i love the car and fu#king with people that dont know what it is! my car is tc powered good luck csx looks great

Shadowjake
09-28-2011, 11:10 AM
No offense, but the blue cap looks pretty bad. Are you going to be covering it?

Yeah, I will be puting the black splash shield over the distributor. Since I still need a new coil wire, I haven't bothered yet. No offense taken, I agree.

Reaper1
09-28-2011, 11:33 AM
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m248/ucku/Picture075.jpgi drive my car every day i love the car and fu#king with people that dont know what it is! my car is tc powered good luck csx looks great

TC powered, as in 16V? Not to hijack, but if it IS 16V Masi, then have you got in on the valve cover group by from TU? If not, you need to look into it...like NOW!!

minigts
11-10-2011, 10:49 AM
...

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy8YyQdcI/AAAAAAAADXY/gea1hFZVLfI/s800/P1010614.JPG
Is the wind shield trim pretty universal on these? There is a big gap on the driver side top of the windshield on mine that annoys me.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TLTy9JGWxkI/AAAAAAAADXg/Ga1POBlwauE/s800/P1010615.JPG
And the trim around the driver window doesn't stay flush because the channel the barrel connector is supposed to ride in is in bad condition. Is there a fix? How hard are these trim pieces to find? I know the window scrapers are almost impossible to find (but that is rubber).


Make some axle stubs. It is possible, although not super probable that the bearing could separate and the wheel could come off.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=183

Windshield trim.

http://www.omnipotentparts.com/product_detail.htm#P body Windshield

Did anyone find replacements for the tiny clips that hold the trim pieces on? I ordered the windshield trim from Greg, but there wasn't anything for the side trim clips that I saw. They look just like the windshield trim pieces, just smaller. Did you find this replacement?

Shadowjake
11-10-2011, 11:33 AM
I ordered these (https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=A13847) but haven't gotten a chance to see if they work right yet.

I also got some nylon blind rivets (https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=A13750)for the ground effects and some christmas tree plugs (https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=A11146)for the splash shields.

minigts
11-10-2011, 11:56 AM
...

[QUOTE=Shadowjake;866066]I ordered these (https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=A13847) but haven't gotten a chance to see if they work right yet.

I also got some nylon blind rivets (https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=A13750)for the ground effects and some christmas tree plugs (https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=A11146)for the splash shields.

Thanks for the links. But DANG those are expensive per! Sheesh, need Greg to see if he can get those in bulk and pass the savings onto us. :) Looking forward to correcting things like this on my car as well.

Shadowjake
11-10-2011, 11:58 AM
NO THEY'RE CHEAP. They come in a bag of 25 for that price. Same with the plugs and rivets.

minigts
11-10-2011, 12:09 PM
NO THEY'RE CHEAP. They come in a bag of 25 for that price. Same with the plugs and rivets.

Ok, cool. Yeah I see that with the rivets, but there wasn't a description on the other one. Glad you pointed that out. I could see myself buying 25 (bags!!!) of those things and thinking I got a steal when the order arrived. :D Did you get a chance to pull one off the car and compare it to these? They look the same, but since mine are all disintegrating, it's hard to tell.

Shadowjake
11-10-2011, 12:16 PM
I haven't delved into any exterior stuff on my car yet. I peeked under the trim and they look similar but didn't take it off to compare directly. I can take a look when I get home.

Reeves
11-10-2011, 02:15 PM
Yeah, I will be puting the black splash shield over the distributor. Since I still need a new coil wire, I haven't bothered yet. No offense taken, I agree.

That blue cap is a Standard Blue Streak isn't it? I think they quit making them....but it was the best cap IMHO.

135sohc
11-10-2011, 04:48 PM
I got one on closeout from rockauto. sold as a regular SMP cap, but was blue and included a rotor.

Shadowjake
11-12-2011, 12:39 AM
I just checked the trim clips and the ones I linked to are too big. I'll let you know when I find the right ones.

minigts
11-12-2011, 02:52 AM
I just checked the trim clips and the ones I linked to are too big. I'll let you know when I find the right ones.

That's too bad. Were you able to pull one off unscathed? Maybe you could take some dimensions, compare it to the one you bought and see if that company can cross reference the size and come up with something. It's got to be out there, I would think. Thanks for checking!

Shadowjake
11-12-2011, 01:00 PM
That's too bad. Were you able to pull one off unscathed? Maybe you could take some dimensions, compare it to the one you bought and see if that company can cross reference the size and come up with something. It's got to be out there, I would think. Thanks for checking!

The height is the same, 30mm. But the width on the original is 11.5mm at the tabs. Just over 4mm thick. I'm sure they have the right ones. I just need to find them.

Shadowjake
11-12-2011, 01:06 PM
The original is on the bottom.

minigts
11-14-2011, 08:26 PM
The height is the same, 30mm. But the width on the original is 11.5mm at the tabs. Just over 4mm thick. I'm sure they have the right ones. I just need to find them.


The original is on the bottom.

Dang that stinks. Well they probably have them somewhere and thanks for looking into this. Are you going to scour that site or have you tried any other suppliers? BTW, thanks for posting the link there. That place has TONS of fasteners, just the stuff I/we need! :thumb:

bfarroo
11-14-2011, 09:26 PM
Keep the good info coming, I will be starting the resto on mine in the near future and want to have it done by 2014 since I'm assuming that the SDAC convention will be focused on it that year for the 25th anniversary.

Shadowjake
11-14-2011, 09:46 PM
I plan to scour their site and I'm sure they have the right ones. But if you beat me to it, I won't complain ;-)

minigts
11-15-2011, 01:05 AM
When you get a chance, will you post the exact dimensions? I will definitely look around for a source for these. :thumb:

Shadowjake
11-15-2011, 12:16 PM
When you get a chance, will you post the exact dimensions? I will definitely look around for a source for these. :thumb:

They are 30mm tall, 11.5mm wide at the tabs (slightly narrower in the middle), and 4mm thick.

minigts
11-15-2011, 01:02 PM
Excellent man, thanks for posting this! I'm sure they are out there somewhere.

minigts
11-15-2011, 02:28 PM
Sent an email to the company with the specs and application for our needs. Hopefully they will identify a suitable replacement.

supercrackerbox
11-15-2011, 03:00 PM
Nice, I could spend a bunch of money there. Heck, they even have the headliner button for the L-bodies. It'd probably have to be painted for most cars, but at least its out there since the factory ones are almost all gone.

Shadowjake
04-24-2012, 02:45 PM
I ordered up the Innovate MTX-L Wideband O2 sensor for the CSX. It already has an EGT probe in the header but I think I'll leave the EGT gauge off and Keep the aftermarket boost and wideband O2 gauges in the pod.

I'm going to be sending in the black front bumper mounts and intercooler support braces in for powder coating tonight. Got the computer and Fuel Pressure gauge installed last night.

I also ordered some new moulding clips for a GM that sound like they match the dimensions of the ones on my car. I'll let you know if they fit. That's it for now.

Things to do before she's road worthy:

- Install the fenders, facia, bumper, driver seat, etc.
- Install the wide band.
- Get the exhaust hung. Need a few shoulder bolts to attach the rubber hangers to the underbody that are MIA.
- Install the aluminum radiator when Turbos Unleashed gets them in and ships it.
- Plumb the intake. I want to go with aluminum piping if I can find a local place to weld it. I should be able to cut it and get it lined up.
- Get new tires
- Find the darn key or get one made.

minigts
04-27-2012, 05:30 PM
Found this site for fasteners. Not sure if any of these would work. But they're cheap, so worth a shot?

http://www.autofastco.net/catalog/item/7780354/9297734.htm

Shadowjake
04-29-2012, 06:45 PM
The ones I ordered here work!

GM Quarter Belt Reveal Moulding Clip (https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=A14642)

Here are some pics of the original vs the new ones. Original ones are on the top.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Jjb2i216YzQ/T53Ct6vtYqI/AAAAAAAAEnw/XIaO1athnV4/s800/IMG_20120429_173436.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-InlibRiIk5Y/T53CodHRZ3I/AAAAAAAAEnw/aiFT2SKXMy8/s800/IMG_20120429_173426.jpg

I also got some of these for the valve cover since I'm going to studs in the head.

M6-1.0 Free Spinning Washer Nut 14mm O.D. (http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=A19216)

And got some of these too.

Extruded U Nut M8-1.25 Screw Size - GM Ford Chrysler (http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=A11629)

Shadowjake
04-29-2012, 06:55 PM
Here are some pictures from last night:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SZRw0-JJvRQ/T5z4qIe8kGI/AAAAAAAAEnw/1-2BVhGYmBk/s800/IMG_20120429_031439.jpg
My parts bin ;-)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iL9LwAFOP1U/T5z4gobJ77I/AAAAAAAAEnw/_j21au7Y0qA/s800/IMG_20120429_031257.jpg
The gauges. On the bottom is the new wide band Innovate MTX-L. I need to paint the pillar pod gray to match. The black looks dumb I think.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6Ygml__azNI/T5z4DJYHATI/AAAAAAAAEnw/vFm6cEcTjv4/s800/IMG_20120429_031231.jpg
Got the center console cleaned up and put back together. Found an old original chrysler radio with tape deck in my basement from past cars. I think it compliments the car nicely. Brings me back to the 90s when I sit in the car.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WrFz_lAjNZg/T5z4BoO7rbI/AAAAAAAAEnw/FF7Ol4UJavw/s800/IMG_20120429_031213.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QS2dX619E-4/T5z4APP_Y2I/AAAAAAAAEnw/6f3mWQGzgAM/s800/IMG_20120429_031139.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zJ8ifaoldbs/T5z0LkeCm0I/AAAAAAAAEnw/aM7LJHGzxzM/s800/IMG_20120429_025541.jpg
Shelby likes to hang out in the head liner. I'll need to replace that soon too but until then, I'll let her enjoy her hammock.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YLDMdJ4hImU/T5zz_tSdtJI/AAAAAAAAEnw/4JQ74tq5YYk/s800/IMG_20120429_025530.jpg

Zethioth
04-29-2012, 08:18 PM
Just read the entire thread. Love every last bit of it.

I have a little 2.2L Sundance. I'm discovering all of the history behing these cars. Let me know how the headliner goes, mine needs replacing and I'm positive the board is warped. Not sure how I'm gonna fix it yet.

Good Luck!

minigts
04-30-2012, 09:17 AM
That's great about the clips. Did you try and fit them? I'd LOVE to know that they actually worked. If so, I'm ordering some like yesterday. Cool progress on the car too, can't wait to see it finished or close to it. :)

Shadowjake
04-30-2012, 02:15 PM
That's great about the clips. Did you try and fit them? I'd LOVE to know that they actually worked. If so, I'm ordering some like yesterday. Cool progress on the car too, can't wait to see it finished or close to it. :)

Yup, they fit and hold the door trim on fine.

---------- Post added at 01:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:09 PM ----------

I got the interior all put back together last night. Here are some pics of the finished product:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WVmVoAviupk/T547idcstSI/AAAAAAAAEpg/WL5Kpl8bIek/s800/IMG_20120430_021241.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jSezGGxmgYw/T547ZjsZcTI/AAAAAAAAEpg/a47lonyskUw/s800/IMG_20120430_021224.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PD8VofeitQc/T547BzLjlII/AAAAAAAAEpg/_Xvzia3YNiY/s800/IMG_20120430_021038.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hrfUfbP1nIg/T5465X-yasI/AAAAAAAAEpg/z8NI0LCsq88/s800/IMG_20120430_021020.jpg
I have the Shelby steering wheel but haven't put it on yet. I'll swap it on before shows so it doesn't get worn.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eWTspflKGGc/T5462ZI8EQI/AAAAAAAAEpg/ULfmigF6iQE/s800/IMG_20120430_020957.jpg
Floor mats are in decent shape.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QQ1lfBsZeLk/T546kvx6rgI/AAAAAAAAEpg/FkUtl9WwdOs/s800/IMG_20120430_020827.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eaNlxL9TfVE/T546hU0p6QI/AAAAAAAAEpg/jhR1lxzf4_s/s800/IMG_20120430_020753.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s9ODBss_YMo/T546VsUbtRI/AAAAAAAAEpg/bFD3KHttlRg/s800/IMG_20120430_020725.jpg

omni_840
04-30-2012, 03:46 PM
Looks awesome!

Reeves
04-30-2012, 04:21 PM
Looks awesome!

x2! :thumb:

Shadowjake
05-01-2012, 10:45 AM
So where is this little white foamy donut go exactly?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cW-aFPBFNMk/T59ZWGAaoFI/AAAAAAAAErw/Fcmgnl0A6SQ/s800/IMG_20120430_223124.jpg

Got some Red Line MTL for the transmission. Most folks seem to have good luck with it from what I've read on here.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZDrg_fx6b8g/T59RXaLmgqI/AAAAAAAAErw/eTeijVhCx5s/s800/IMG_20120430_215805.jpg

So the car is sitting level and I put the two quarts of the MTL in and it is full! I thought the capacity was 2.5 quarts or so. The transmission was freshly rebuilt so it was bone dry. But I did have it converted to hybrid with an OBX LSD, chromoly end plate, etc. Would that throw my capacities off? I expected to have to add a bit of 5W30 to top it off.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-smyVWevRpME/T59W0FWDQ_I/AAAAAAAAErw/EXUfq6SzGj8/s800/IMG_20120430_222127.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BnXI_fVMm9o/T59XFpr8W9I/AAAAAAAAErw/2X1n4tDIsrQ/s800/IMG_20120430_222243.jpg

Reeves
05-01-2012, 01:50 PM
2 quarts for bone dry is about right for the trans.

Shadowjake
05-02-2012, 08:43 AM
2 quarts for bone dry is about right for the trans.

Ok, then I won't worry. Thanks for the info!

Can someone tell me where the little white foam E-brake insulator goes? I don't see it anywhere in the FSM. For now I just slid it on the cable where it seems like it might rub the underbody but I'm pretty sure that's wrong. Thanks.

Shadowjake
05-02-2012, 09:19 AM
I broke down and made my own shoulder bolts so I can get the exhaust hung. This combination works perfectly. The spacer is slightly larger diameter but it fits.

Metric hex bolts, Zinc plated class 10.9 steel, 8mm x 1.25mm x 35mm (http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6732)
Metric fender washers, Stainless steel 18-8, 8mm x 24mm (http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7316)
Spacers, Zinc plated steel, 5/16", 3/4" (5/8" O.D.) (http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=13726)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nzKUpxnuqks/T6BklJ_CZpI/AAAAAAAAEtI/htnrT77WvVo/s800/IMG_20120501_173236.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LOXNsyqEMDc/T6ChK28oWFI/AAAAAAAAEtI/aDy44GeOCBY/s800/IMG_20120501_215045.jpg

I got studs installed in the head for the valve cover. I got sick of stripping the holes in the head when torquing down the valve cover. Now I can gradually torque them down in a chris cross pattern and hit 105 in/lbs and not worry about them letting go.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EtAO8SBFW9g/T6CpllK9eCI/AAAAAAAAEtI/jEe5CbEUSEs/s800/IMG_20120501_222624.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2eXmfznbn9k/T6Cptzuv3LI/AAAAAAAAEtI/VbaSfSyNybQ/s800/IMG_20120501_222633.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3sUiDEljvyE/T6CpzixBXEI/AAAAAAAAEtI/aiTQ_uEuw20/s800/IMG_20120501_222655.jpg

Valve Cover installed and torqued.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yXH5zLG4LY0/T6Cv-CexCgI/AAAAAAAAEtI/n3Z5bahs1i0/s800/IMG_20120501_225301.jpg


4-l-bodies (Todd) came to my rescue again. I was in need of an air box bracket and he had an extra. Not only did he give it to me for the cost of shipping (which I still owe him for), but he also sand blasted it and primed it for me! Todd, I don't care what everyone else says about you; you are not half bad! Thanks a ton!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bY5NOs7eSCs/T6Eb_8rqe1I/AAAAAAAAEtI/SxPPao0qPZQ/s800/IMG_20120502_063303.jpg

minigts
05-02-2012, 09:24 AM
Hey you mentioned the nuts for the valve cover, but where did you get the studs or what did you use? Did you get them from the clips and fasteners place?

135sohc
05-02-2012, 10:23 AM
So where is this little white foamy donut go exactly?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cW-aFPBFNMk/T59ZWGAaoFI/AAAAAAAAErw/Fcmgnl0A6SQ/s800/IMG_20120430_223124.jpg

Got some Red Line MTL for the transmission. Most folks seem to have good luck with it from what I've read on here.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZDrg_fx6b8g/T59RXaLmgqI/AAAAAAAAErw/eTeijVhCx5s/s800/IMG_20120430_215805.jpg

So the car is sitting level and I put the two quarts of the MTL in and it is full! I thought the capacity was 2.5 quarts or so. The transmission was freshly rebuilt so it was bone dry. But I did have it converted to hybrid with an OBX LSD, chromoly end plate, etc. Would that throw my capacities off? I expected to have to add a bit of 5W30 to top it off.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-smyVWevRpME/T59W0FWDQ_I/AAAAAAAAErw/EXUfq6SzGj8/s800/IMG_20120430_222127.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BnXI_fVMm9o/T59XFpr8W9I/AAAAAAAAErw/2X1n4tDIsrQ/s800/IMG_20120430_222243.jpg


That little foam donut goes on the J-hook just behind the equilizer bar thingy, its there to keep the end of the hook rod from dragging on the underbody which it looks like yours has been doing.

Shadowjake
05-02-2012, 10:29 AM
That little foam donut goes on the J-hook just behind the equilizer bar thingy, its there to keep the end of the hook rod from dragging on the underbody which it looks like yours has been doing.

That makes sense. I'll get it moved. Thanks again!

Shadowjake
05-03-2012, 12:06 PM
Hey you mentioned the nuts for the valve cover, but where did you get the studs or what did you use? Did you get them from the clips and fasteners place?

I got some set screws from boltdepot.com. Amazingly fast shipping and they can be ordered individually instead of in boxes of 25-50 like other places.

I got:

4 x Metric set screws, Allen, Cup point, Class 14.9 steel black oil finish, 6mm x 1.0mm x 50mm (http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=8867) for the 4 corners.

5 x Metric set screws, Allen, Cup point, Class 14.9 steel black oil finish, 6mm x 1.0mm x 35mm (http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=8864) for the middles.

I tried 25mm ones but they were too short. If I were to do it over again, I would get 7 @ 40mm and 2@ 50mm and only use the longer ones on the timing belt side. the 35mm ones are just too short for the ends where the valve cover is thicker and the 50mm ones look kinda dumb on the tranny side being so long.

Shadowjake
05-03-2012, 01:43 PM
So I got some stainless steel hex screws to use on the radiator and intercooler brackets thinking they would look nice. But now I hear stainless and aluminum are reactive and could corrode each other. Do you think these fasteners screwed into an aluminum radiator/intercooler would be a bad idea? Or would it be no worse than a regular steel bolt?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RbNQPsTZ5Yw/T6HhMglKdeI/AAAAAAAAEyY/cWMQaPzDPsE/s800/IMG_20120502_203623.jpg

Got my bung hole installed last night. :eyebrows: It's for the wideband sensor.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cKDJ8qQMg5E/T6HwUW8iO4I/AAAAAAAAEyY/0QoUgvQh4mQ/s800/IMG_20120502_213534.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0BuV_WFW-cs/T6HwW51n-KI/AAAAAAAAEyY/-s1Dg9Y7SAA/s800/IMG_20120502_213543.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DGZOpdyGKG0/T6Hwc2ik_kI/AAAAAAAAEyY/jEJx0mTBfmA/s800/IMG_20120502_213556.jpg

As you can see, I am an expert welder. That sucker ain't going anywhere though.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dam_xFCS6v0/T6H8IWj8JiI/AAAAAAAAEyY/RnY315c6j70/s800/IMG_20120502_223032.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0vSoxEIQbZs/T6H8PXV5yfI/AAAAAAAAEyY/4N1qf4auEWA/s800/IMG_20120502_223112.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b1y7ulPRst0/T6H_lGBznQI/AAAAAAAAEyY/oYF-hO6hq0g/s800/IMG_20120502_224519.jpg

I started to mock up the exhaust to see how it would fit. It is going to take some work around the axle. Here's the muffler that is going on.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0fP0y76JQgk/T6H_phxLL5I/AAAAAAAAEyY/neBrQprgOTs/s800/IMG_20120502_224544.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YA_2RR2w6NI/T6IAhEIDEWI/AAAAAAAAEyY/5Qct7qmkvII/s800/IMG_20120502_225021.jpg

It seems like the upward bend is too far back and I can only move it back a few inches because there are other bends in the way.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Eq6XTFI_KNY/T6IEVJSfBLI/AAAAAAAAEyY/_xLqNqTVzec/s800/IMG_20120502_230624.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PC2ej5oF4aM/T6IBKnFp0hI/AAAAAAAAEyY/umoZcUG7MM8/s800/IMG_20120502_225158.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uySQ-Ie77z4/T6IEgtkobhI/AAAAAAAAEyY/nnh3GFKXhqA/s800/IMG_20120502_230719.jpg

Everything else lines up nicely though.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-l-Rqv1E4e4k/T6IBNb4t-kI/AAAAAAAAEyY/9MFYAE7w48Y/s800/IMG_20120502_225254.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PHQEtX9NyYo/T6IBgaIWElI/AAAAAAAAEyY/rxhVOSd5yDA/s800/IMG_20120502_225332.jpg

I debated puting the muffler where the cat goes, but i'm pretty positive it would rub and be annoying.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eAWZ1NsSD80/T6IElbcvENI/AAAAAAAAEyY/7fGJKRAaFWU/s800/IMG_20120502_230742.jpg

I also mocked up the air box to see how the turbo inlet will work. It is 3" on the the turbo and 2.25 on the box. So I will need a reducer. And it is in a wierd location so I will need to figure out best way to connect point A and B.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LWVIFxMzhJY/T6ITrOB_99I/AAAAAAAAEyY/0SSD60VeMjk/s800/IMG_20120503_001044.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-l4aflPh66jE/T6IT0pqAozI/AAAAAAAAEyY/FESyWl109ak/s800/IMG_20120503_001058.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fz7cSV7vANQ/T6IT98fyXLI/AAAAAAAAEyY/I9N-ujJKO4o/s800/IMG_20120503_001114.jpg

Where the heck does this thing go?

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-af_Lyen2yNs/T6IVnohMxSI/AAAAAAAAEyY/uJMKyH795Ps/s800/IMG_20120503_001513.jpg

supercrackerbox
05-04-2012, 04:21 AM
So I got some stainless steel hex screws to use on the radiator and intercooler brackets thinking they would look nice. But now I hear stainless and aluminum are reactive and could corrode each other. Do you think these fasteners screwed into an aluminum radiator/intercooler would be a bad idea? Or would it be no worse than a regular steel bolt?


I would say stainless will react far less than regular steel, if at all. It still wouldn't hurt to use some anti-sieze on them just in case.



Where the heck does this thing go?

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-af_Lyen2yNs/T6IVnohMxSI/AAAAAAAAEyY/uJMKyH795Ps/s800/IMG_20120503_001513.jpg

I believe that is the bracket to support the stock oil and coolant lines to the turbo; it bolts to the driver's side of the head. Since you're using the braided hoses, I don't think you'll be able to use it. Still be sure to put the bolt in there with plenty of teflon tape or paste so you don't have a massive oil leak.

minigts
05-04-2012, 09:53 AM
So I got some stainless steel hex screws to use on the radiator and intercooler brackets thinking they would look nice. But now I hear stainless and aluminum are reactive and could corrode each other. Do you think these fasteners screwed into an aluminum radiator/intercooler would be a bad idea? Or would it be no worse than a regular steel bolt?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RbNQPsTZ5Yw/T6HhMglKdeI/AAAAAAAAEyY/cWMQaPzDPsE/s800/IMG_20120502_203623.jpg
....other stuff here

I'd just put something on the ends where they thread in and call it a day. It won't be any worse than rust from a steel bolt. Use something like anti-seize or something.

And for the muffler, I'm running a 3" Borla where the cat when and it's not that bad. Every now and then you can here it rubbing the heat shield, but usually when it's cooling down or at idle. Cruising, not sure you'll hear much more than the roar of the exhaust.

Everything looks good though!

Shadowjake
05-22-2012, 11:53 AM
Progress. Had Sunday and Monday off.

I got the AC, Cooling system, intake, exhaust, and exterior trim installed. Also installed the distributor and wires from rBryant. Wow, these are nice! I didn't realize how badly the blade connectors into the distributor cap sucked!

Bad news:

1. I think my SBEC is shot. No CEL, no power to fuel pump when ignition is on. Swapped the ASD Relay with a new one and no change.
2. The SS coolant return line from the turbo has a leak at the crimp and leaks.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gJzeTJS8ZQU/T7mPHlcoWTI/AAAAAAAAFBg/2F-IwmhGVBk/s800/IMG_20120520_194030.jpg
^ Front end put back together and A/C installed. The AC don't work but it looks better installed until I can get an AC delete alternator bracket.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DwYYucGgJ6U/T7mPOiRx6JI/AAAAAAAAFBg/wz9a9B1hOC8/s800/IMG_20120520_194052.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RP3Dhr8b6us/T7mPWC0toGI/AAAAAAAAFBg/XTD5nQRMV2o/s800/IMG_20120520_194102.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PXJ9Aicb5eg/T7r81J15bmI/AAAAAAAAFBg/yPwkoNrNT2Y/s800/IMG_20120521_214041.jpg
^ Bought a brand new battery and heard Interstate batteries are really good so that's what I got. I didn't realize they were green. Looks dumb but at least it will start when the key is turned.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qXyO5b9UM9k/T7r892q-QvI/AAAAAAAAFBg/CKTjuITk62U/s800/IMG_20120521_214101.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-r53JJ5nkuL0/T7r9HTGcV0I/AAAAAAAAFBg/Hc_qnKrqfBg/s800/IMG_20120521_214116.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lHCFXMFNlJs/T7r9PamOYcI/AAAAAAAAFBg/XYI1x9PnLhA/s800/IMG_20120521_214131.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tvi7Ho1oKrw/T7r9XcuybJI/AAAAAAAAFBg/ZgiibrDnw9Y/s800/IMG_20120521_214137.jpg
^ Using the fugly old radiator until the new aluminum one comes in. I need to clean up and paint the intercooler also. At least the brackets look nice though.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vsnrRtugvhs/T7r-zBiMqAI/AAAAAAAAFBg/HiStwodo5po/s800/IMG_20120521_214918.jpg
The side skirts. "Kaminari AERO".

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XFmDj17q9mE/T7sN0Qnz_PI/AAAAAAAAFBg/ZDNRx0Hx_NE/s800/IMG_20120521_225322.jpg
^ My rivet tool didn't work with the plastic rivets so I tried this wire stripper I got from Turbos Unleashed and it worked great! Who would have thought. . .


And the exhaust. I decided to put the muffler in the middle and a 3" turn down at the back.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ou2C-PLYtro/T7sNHBptmtI/AAAAAAAAFBg/xmkstUTCSHo/s800/IMG_20120521_225016.jpg
^Those band clamps are awesome.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MglNMpyuB94/T7sNQLyit8I/AAAAAAAAFBg/spjYxc7BrGQ/s800/IMG_20120521_225023.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ASK9R0YKOss/T7sNY2FadPI/AAAAAAAAFBg/5MdZET2Nmbo/s800/IMG_20120521_225059.jpg
^I still have to add a support to the back. I really like how the turn down looks. Simple but it makes it look finished.

Now I just need to figure out if I need to find a new SBEC and get a new coolant return line for the turbo and I'll be very close to turning the key to the "Start" position ;-) The anticipation is killing me!

---------- Post added at 10:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:48 AM ----------

The coolant leak.


http://youtu.be/4ALcCzuBN2Q

ohlarikd
05-22-2012, 12:24 PM
Now I just need to figure out if I need to find a new SBEC and get a new coolant return line for the turbo and I'll be very close to turning the key to the "Start" position ;-) The anticipation is killing me![COLOR="Silver"]


I have been following this for a long time - awesome! That first twist of the key and the anticipation is a great moment! Not to mention the fear of something going wrong. Any day now!

Derek

ScottD
05-22-2012, 12:51 PM
Excellent work so far!

Shadowjake
05-29-2012, 01:14 AM
I can't find the antenna spacer thing that goes here. No idea where it went in the last 5 years.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OmjnRQUkm0Q/T8BOrB5iPdI/AAAAAAAAFF4/VgGlt9vYCYg/s800/IMG_20120525_223123.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XfW2Als4mCQ/T8BOxS6uN6I/AAAAAAAAFF4/4KbXgMofNRQ/s800/IMG_20120525_223132.jpg

I got some "Forever Black" to re-dye some of the trim pieces and tonight was the first night I got to try it out. Amazing stuff. Hopefully it lasts like it claims.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jRfFt_NQI1w/T8BWyDVcj0I/AAAAAAAAFF4/vxU9MdJlrn0/s800/IMG_20120525_230553.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_wA55sIIYuI/T8BW371Ph-I/AAAAAAAAFF4/KfpZstF7Op0/s800/IMG_20120525_230605.jpg

I did the cowl trim and the rubber hood gasket thing first and it turned out really nice.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KbCNfWqPAAg/T8BWblTKjXI/AAAAAAAAFF4/J-hzmaxKv4I/s800/IMG_20120525_230428.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FgOABs0xcVQ/T8BWjxCBM0I/AAAAAAAAFF4/NgjRDd99PMo/s800/IMG_20120525_230444.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-g77VqqTmfBc/T8BWq_1qRYI/AAAAAAAAFF4/UUrferTlo4E/s800/IMG_20120525_230502.jpg

Then I decided to do the splash guards.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WyZ77GaCduM/T8BW-5lPqdI/AAAAAAAAFF4/lfCFUC8RbmI/s800/IMG_20120525_230635.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-H8jxHrKto1A/T8Bg-pAd-hI/AAAAAAAAFF4/L1y-RhcF3Vg/s800/IMG_20120525_234932.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qmb-EVmS7Bo/T8BhFyaP_nI/AAAAAAAAFF4/MyITNaYwUbM/s800/IMG_20120525_234957.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YofaPfODGoc/T8BkyVDfmqI/AAAAAAAAFF4/hA-TDAmVpOU/s800/IMG_20120526_000549.jpg

I was hoping these tires would work but they are too big. They are my winter shoes for my daily driver. I will have to look into getting some decent rubber to put on the fiberrides.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-01tXFsZxCLE/T8RXIXPpiiI/AAAAAAAAFF4/MTsS1bMFGZk/s800/IMG_20120528_235505.jpg


I also tried to fire it up the other night. After a lot of trouble shooting (you can read about most of it here (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?66197-Fires-up-and-dies-after-rebuild&highlight=)) I am pretty sure it is the Hall Effect Pickup. I did clean it during the rebuild. Used the brake cleaner that comes in the green can if it matters. But maybe that is what did it in. I have a new HEP on order and will try installing that tomorrow. If it works out, I might be taking her on her maiden voyage tomorrow afternoon. Here's to hoping. . . .

Until next time.

Shadowjake
06-08-2012, 09:55 PM
Got my chip burner, eraser, and 10 blank 87C257 chips. Should be all set for burning cals now. burning the .bin is easy. I'm still learning how to use MPTune though. Baby steps.

The Datarase erases 4 chips at a time and they are blank by the end of a smoke break. Not sure how long exactly it takes but definitely under 10 minutes. Pretty cool.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zi7Y98M3C_A/T9FrChgT6xI/AAAAAAAAFQI/rhLMqpVeXQo/s800/IMG_20120607_220033.jpg

The burner/reader is a knock off willem burner that works great! completely USB so I don't have to worry about having an LPT port or adapter or anything. The software is also very simple and straight forward.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UU8YRGFkJHw/T9JzObjM14I/AAAAAAAAFQI/e1OFYsUyTyg/s800/IMG_20120608_164732.jpg

Pretty sure we have found the answer to why my car isn't starting. Barry (SDACGuy) actually came to the rescue and described my exact symptoms. Come to find out, the replacement SBEC I tried must be from a Daytona that had a factory alarm system installed. Since my CSX doesn't have the security module, the SBEC disables the car when it starts. A different SBEC will be on its way soon to try out. It makes total sense looking at how the car is acting. I hope I am done pulling my hair out. I'm getting excited to drive the car again! It was feeling pretty hopeless for a while there, I'm not going to lie.

Hopefully after breaking the engine in those first few miles, I come home and have a good compression test in all 4. If not, the rings might have gotten worn too badly trying to crank it. Knock on wood.

135sohc
06-09-2012, 01:28 AM
I wouldnt be super worried about the rings not sealing. Brand new engines get installed, driven off the line and get quite a bit of relaxed run time before the customer ever see's the car and gets to 'break it in'.

Shadowjake
06-16-2012, 09:47 PM
Well she's alive! I got a new SBEC and it solved the running problem. It runs now after socketing the new SBEC and plugging in the custom chip. Has some minor idle issues and fuel ratio issues to work out yet but one step at a time. Below is a video of it idling after driving it for a while to break it in a little. Put about 5 miles on it so far. I'm going to change the oil now and go break it in some more. After about 20-30 more miles I'll change the oil again. Better safe than sorry.

It's leaking a little coolant out the filler cap (need to get a new cap probably) and it was smoking a lot from back by the turbo which scared me for a while. Good spool up though and the shaft spins freely. The smoking is going away now so it is probably just the paint or gaskets or whatever else burning off after building it.


http://youtu.be/eiZNX_6HAP8

4 l-bodies
06-16-2012, 11:05 PM
Jake,
Yeah the smoking is a normal thing with gaskets, anti-seize, oils, paint, burning off. I usually leave the hood off until that is done smokin. Glad to hear it's up and running. Good job!
Todd

Shadowjake
06-17-2012, 01:46 AM
Thanks Todd! I still owe you a case of beer for that airbox bracket. If you're going to SDAC I get it to you then. I should have brought it to MITP but the place was so far in the boondocks that I didn't see a gas station when I got close. Don't think I forgot though. Your help on this project has been really appreciated.

So I changed the oil tonight and the oil had sort of a milky gray swirl to it. Assembly lube maybe? I've also lost a bit of coolant out the radiator cap and have what appears to be some slight seepage from the head gasket. I pulled the valve cover and retorqued the ARP head studs. Maybe I'm just worrying too much. But what does coolant look like in the oil if I have a head gasket issue? would it be kinda milky and swirly? I'm being paranoid I think.

The car is loud. Dang loud. And it shakes a lot. I hear things rattling at idle and when driving it gets worse. I don't know if it's from the poly motor mounts all the way around or if it is in the tuning. Maybe I have the bobble strut too tight.

and it seems to be off beat a little as far as firing. I am going to double check the timing and ignition timing tomorrow. It almost seems like the car is working against itself at times when accelerating. But boy does it pull when I get into the boost! It needs an alignment badly, so it gets a little scary at times ;-)

Also, this turbo is going to take some getting used to. Hopefully it gets better once it's tuned but it is lagy. I haven't floored it yet but it takes a while for the boost to build. I'm of course used to my old SRT4's stock turbo and I understand there is no comparison.

Either way, Day 1 of driving the car after working on it for the last half decade was great! Makes it all worth it.

cordes
06-17-2012, 01:58 AM
You'll be able to tune out a great deal of the lag if your cal is very far off right now. The poly bushings will have things shaking a bit, but you'll get used to it in no time.

Shadowjake
06-17-2012, 01:59 AM
Another video for you guys. Is it supposed to jump around so much? Or should it idle at as close to 14.7 as possible?


http://youtu.be/e4uc2VeOFPA

cordes
06-17-2012, 02:01 AM
How cold was the engine when you shot that? They run pretty rich when dead cold. It seemed like it was still trying to learn a bit there too. It usually evens out a lot after being driven some. My Shadow with SBEC takes about 50mi to learn everything. It's pretty annoying.