New Neon Srt-4 Owner

[1qk4dr]

After a long trip to Tennesse and back to Cincinnati to buy a babied Srt-4 she's finally in the driveway. I took the last set of pictures of my Spirit Rt with her today since the new owner will be picking it up in a few hours. Kind of Bittersweet. Here's a few pics

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6065/dsc02080x.jpg (http://img97.imageshack.us/i/dsc02080x.jpg/)

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/3572/dsc02086r.jpg (http://img221.imageshack.us/i/dsc02086r.jpg/)

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/1579/dsc02085z.jpg (http://img185.imageshack.us/i/dsc02085z.jpg/)

[glhs875]

NICE! My wife's '04 silver SRT4 has been, and still is a GREAT car!!!

[moparfwdsleeper]

looks great! congrats on your new purchase. list of mods done to it?

[1qk4dr]

looks great! congrats on your new purchase. list of mods done to it?

BOV and K&N Typhoon Kit, other than that stock.

BTW, my Spirit was towed away today by the new owner.

[moparfwdsleeper]

BOV and K&N Typhoon Kit, other than that stock.

BTW, my Spirit was towed away today by the new owner.

Are those AGP solid motor mounts or other? I need to get these installed along with my 2.0 cams, and RFL bov/Mopar bop.

Small list of to do's :nod:

[1qk4dr]

Are those AGP solid motor mounts or other? I need to get these installed along with my 2.0 cams, and RFL bov/Mopar bop.

Small list of to do's :nod:

I'm not sure, I couldn't tell you if they were stock or not,lol. Is there marking I should look for or are they made out polyurethane instead of rubber?

[jl93sundance]

I'm not sure, I couldn't tell you if they were stock or not,lol. Is there marking I should look for or are they made out polyurethane instead of rubber?

looks like agp mounts to me.

Btw car looks great:thumb:

[moparfwdsleeper]

I'm not sure, I couldn't tell you if they were stock or not,lol. Is there marking I should look for or are they made out polyurethane instead of rubber?

Top is an AGP solid mount and the bottom is a stock mount.
http://turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21283&stc=1&d=1269230610
http://turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21282&stc=1&d=1269230576


looks like agp mounts to me.

Btw car looks great:thumb:

That is what I thought as well.

[rich tideswell]

Are those AGP solid motor mounts or other?

Don't know if they're AGP brand, but they're definatly "dog bone" style mounts that are not factory

[Keito]

Looks Great!
Not too many around looking like that anymore.

[1qk4dr]

That's kewl that they aren't factory. The motor doesn't shift around at all. The shifter feels great and especially 3rd gear.

[contraption22]

Congrats on a rare find and a nice car. Wishing you many miles of fun. Finally took mine out for a ride Saturday after spending the whole winter in the garage. I've missed driving it.

[contraption22]

BTW, how is the vibration with those mounts?

[JamesL]

Congrats....Nice Car! Why was the Spirit "towed" away? It looks like you've done a great job with it as well.

[1qk4dr]

BTW, how is the vibration with those mounts?

Well, I've driven a stock neon SRT-4 and this one and I couldn't tell you the difference. Hardly if any vibration.

Congrats....Nice Car! Why was the Spirit "towed" away? It looks like you've done a great job with it as well.

The Spirit RT dropped Oil pressure when I was about to go drive it. I promised myself that after this rebuild I was going to sell it if anything went wrong again. If you look at the used car section it describes what I've done to the car.

Thanks btw, I had a lot of time and money into that car. It was just time to part with it.

[1qk4dr]

I ran it for the first time today. The car needs some more tire but I'm happy with the time though I was shooting for a 13.99.

2.243 60' 14.198@98.38
2.253 60' 14.184@97.81

[Keito]

Next time you go to the track, a couple gallons of 100+ octane fuel.
I call it insurance for timing. You never really know if the 93 octane fuel is really 93 from the pump.
Go back to the pits and pop the hood, open the fuse box and remove
the fuse for the PCM for a few minutes to reset it.
Get a 2.1 60' and that should be a 13.99 or better.
After I bought mine I added a catless downpipe and 2 gallons of 105
and went 13.82

Another trick is to ground out 1 prong of the fan relay and you can
run a fan switch in the car, turn the fans on whenever you want.
Keeps the IC from heat soaking.

[1qk4dr]

Have you heard of a bad experience with 93 octain fuel in a stock srt-4?
These cars are set up to run on 91 octain or better right?
I've heard the 93 octain tune with a DSP is a good start into getting little bit more power out of the stock car.

[jl93sundance]

I ran it for the first time today. The car needs some more tire but I'm happy with the time though I was shooting for a 13.99.

2.243 60' 14.198@98.38
2.253 60' 14.184@97.81

sounds like you were getting a lot of wheel spin...with those mphs you are about where you should be at time wise for a basically stock srt.

[Keito]

Have you heard of a bad experience with 93 octain fuel in a stock srt-4?
These cars are set up to run on 91 octain or better right?
I've heard the 93 octain tune with a DSP is a good start into getting little bit more power out of the stock car.

I have Stage 2 with toys and I was thinking about getting the DSP.
It blows away Stage 1 and can really pick up some HP's on Stage 2.
I wish that was an option when I first had the car, I would have saved $1000
As far as octane, it's all about knock.
A little knock really hurts HP.
Like I said, running 100+ is just a little insurance.
You don't have to fill the tank, just a couple gallons.

[1qk4dr]

I have Stage 2 with toys and I was thinking about getting the DSP.
It blows away Stage 1 and can really pick up some HP's on Stage 2.
I wish that was an option when I first had the car, I would have saved $1000
As far as octane, it's all about knock.
A little knock really hurts HP.
Like I said, running 100+ is just a little insurance.
You don't have to fill the tank, just a couple gallons.

I'm surprized it took this long to get a hand held tuner like the DSP onto the market. I've found one shipped for 287. I may get this first and download the 93 canned tune. Then get a Thermal 3" catback exhaust since what I'm hearing it's more quiet than the stock exhaust and picks up good gains. I'm going to need to replace the 90 degree elbow on my CAI since RT pointed out that it like to shut close especially if the filter is clogged. I'll put some race fuel in next time. How much do you have in you're tank when you run? I was running with about 4-5 gallons left in the tank.

[contraption22]

I have S2 with toys as well and have been contemplating the DSP. I wish I knew some solid results from a reliable source.

I have noticed a big difference in pump gas mode with 91 octane vs 93. The PCM is very intelligent.

[1qk4dr]

I have S2 with toys as well and have been contemplating the DSP. I wish I knew some solid results from a reliable source.

I have noticed a big difference in pump gas mode with 91 octane vs 93. The PCM is very intelligent.

Well, if anyone is interested I could do a before and after dyno pull with the canned tune vs stock tune on my car.

[contraption22]

Well, if anyone is interested I could do a before and after dyno pull with the canned tune vs stock tune on my car.

I know you are going to see some nice gains with it, especially if you get an upgraded wastegate actuator, like the FM unit that everybody raves about.

What I am more curious about is how an S2/Toys car will react to it.

[1qk4dr]

Tell me more about the FM Wastegate. Why is it better than the stock one?

[contraption22]

As one of the built-in idiot proofing features of the SRT-4, the engineers used a very weak wastegate actuator with a 4 lb spring. Meaning if you were to plumb the wastegate directly to intake manifold pressure, you would get a maximum of about 4psi. So when you try to raise the boost on an SRT-4 with a stock wastegate actuator, usinig an aftermarket boost controller, g-valve or bleed, you will get a boost spike at lowrpm, but as RPM rises, boost will fall as turbine backpressure over-powers the wastegate and it opens up.

Using a stiffer wastegate actuator allows you to raise the boost without it dropping off as much.
Even the Mopar S2 kits come with a 7psi wastegate actuator.

The FM (Forward Motion) unit seems to be the favorite for those that still want the computer to control boost. I beleive they have a 9psi spring.

Personally, I have not had much luck with aftermarket actuators and stock electronics, as the factory computer expects to see a much lighter wastegate and it ruins drivability with too much part throttle boost, making for annoying compressor surge and herky-jerky driving in traffic. However, when an aftermarket actuator is combined with a custom tune, like with the DSP, you can tune it to compensate for the stiffer actuator, and it makes for a much better drive.

I am planning to try one soon myself, as the S2 computer is expecting a little more wastegate tension, plus I have a clipped tubine wheel which should soften the part-throttle boost issue.

[1qk4dr]

Thanks for all this information. The 93 octain tune from DSP from what I read that it will work fine with the stock wastegate but would need to be tuned with a aftermarket one. You cleared this up better than their post.

I guess I'll just do these few things first and see how it does

DSP then exhaust

possibly
Drag radials(too bad that 225/45/17 or 205/40/17's doesn't fit on the stock wheels) What fits on this car? I've heard the the older dodge 15" wheels will not fit.

maybe later on
3" down pipe, FM wastegate, and custom tune

[contraption22]

Some older TM wheels will fit. I've had 15" aluminum Neon SXT wheels on mine. But your best best is to go with some cheap aftermarket 15x7's and some 24.5" slicks.

[Keito]

Well, if anyone is interested I could do a before and after dyno pull with the canned tune vs stock tune on my car.

This is from the fall 2008:

Stock turbo dyno
TB 3"exh AGP wga Ecu controlled boost 18psi fall to 16 pump gas zero KR

http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/7245/stockagpwgamikexa4.png



I run 225/50-15 BGF drag radials on PT Cruiser steel wheels, cheap and
can be found easily.
I also run a Kinetics wastgate actuator on Stage 2/w toys, but like Mike I
have a big wheel stock turbo, it's not jerky- boost comes on smooth.

[1qk4dr]

sounds like you were getting a lot of wheel spin...with those mphs you are about where you should be at time wise for a basically stock srt.

I'm pretty happy with the times. I've owned a 03 Mustang Gt and the best I could get powershifting was a 14.208@98mph 2.0 60'. My buddy's 2001 trans am ram air went 14.2@100 stock so I'm not too far off these times. There was a new LS3 camaro there that ran 13.7@103 which I could of beat on one pass because he spun out of the hole and went 14.098@102 but I shifted too hard into second and pulled the shifter knob off,lol. I ended up cruising a 20.9 during that run,lol.

another car was a new STI what went 13.8@99.

[Keito]

I'm pretty happy with the times. I've owned a 03 Mustang Gt and the best I could get powershifting was a 14.208@98mph 2.0 60'. My buddy's 2001 trans am ram air went 14.2@100 stock so I'm not too far off these times. There was a new LS3 camaro there that ran 13.7@103 which I could of beat on one pass because he spun out of the hole and went 14.098@102 but I shifted too hard into second and pulled the shifter knob off,lol. I ended up cruising a 20.9 during that run,lol.

another car was a new STI what went 13.8@99.

Pulled my knob off the 2nd time down the track.
Gotta remember to pull down a little more than back.

[1qk4dr]

Pulled my knob off the 2nd time down the track.
Gotta remember to pull down a little more than back.


Yeah it was my 2nd time also,lol.

[contraption22]

It's happened to me as well. I now have an aftermarket shifter in mine, so its no longer an issue.

[1qk4dr]

It's happened to me as well. I now have an aftermarket shifter in mine, so its no longer an issue.

Does the one you have now thread in?

[contraption22]

Does the one you have now thread in?

No. Actually, I could be wrong but I think all the ones with thread-on shift knobs have been discontinued, like Hurst, and Perrin. I am using a B&M shifter, which is also discontinued. I use a universal aftermarket knob that holds on with set screws.

[jl93sundance]

No. Actually, I could be wrong but I think all the ones with thread-on shift knobs have been discontinued, like Hurst, and Perrin. I am using a B&M shifter, which is also discontinued. I use a universal aftermarket knob that holds on with set screws.

I think if you buy a maddog sts, he can thread the end for an extra cost.

[1qk4dr]

Well I got the car dyno'd today stock numbers + CAI was 221whp 247ft-lbs of torque after 93oct tune 254whp 292ft-lbs. My wife is awesome btw she gave me horsepower for my birthday.

The car now wants to lights up second gear, feels like a new car.

[Keito]

Nice gains!

[contraption22]

Wow... that is impressive!

[1qk4dr]

Wow... that is impressive!

Especially for the price, well present for me. Still for under 300 dollars it easily beats the s1 and gives the s2 a run for the money. I've heard people breaking into the 300whp range with the can tune, stock turbo and full bolt ons. Percentage to price wise I'm making more safe hp easier than on my 03 Cobra.

[1qk4dr]

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/3172/scan0035.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/i/scan0035.jpg/)

[jl93sundance]

quick question, how much more boost are you running with the 93 octane tune vs stock?

[black86glhs]

Well I got the car dyno'd today stock numbers + CAI was 221whp 247ft-lbs of torque after 93oct tune 254whp 292ft-lbs. My wife is awesome btw she gave me horsepower for my birthday.

The car now wants to lights up second gear, feels like a new car.

50 ft-lb gain is awesome! That tune with some DRs and you are making some time down the track.:thumb:

[jl93sundance]

also according to the air/fuel ratio on the chart you are running a little bit on lean side from about 4500 to 5400 rpms on your 2nd run, you might want to consider making it a little richer in that range just to play it safe. Not too much though.

[black86glhs]

also according to the air/fuel ratio on the chart you are running a little bit on lean side from about 4500 to 5400 rpms on your 2nd run, you might want to consider making it a little richer in that range just to play it safe. Not too much though.

Good eye. Only needs to be .5 richer and it would be damn near perfect in that range.

[1qk4dr]

I need to get a wideband, they checked a/f by the tail pipe. I'm not sure how exact it is. The car pulls now and will spin the front tires from a 40mph second gear roll. I'm not sure how much my track times will improve. I'm hoping for a 13.99 with a 100 or better trap on street tires.

[Keito]

I need to get a wideband, they checked a/f by the tail pipe. I'm not sure how exact it is. The car pulls now and will spin the front tires from a 40mph second gear roll. I'm not sure how much my track times will improve. I'm hoping for a 13.99 with a 100 or better trap on street tires.

Get a decent 60 and you'll be 13's for sure.
Back in 04 I added a catless downpipe and a couple gallons of 108 and went 13.82, dont remember the mph.
I had to laugh, thats what my 92 Mustang GT went with about $2000 in parts.
I sold it to buy the SRT-4.

[Shadowjake]

What fits on this car? I've heard the the older dodge 15" wheels will not fit.


I have put 15" pumpers on mine with a 4mm spacer for winter driving and they fit. With the same spacer, however, I tried to put 15" pizzas and they didn't clear the caliper in front. Cleared the back without any spacer though. Many SRT4 owners use steel rims off a PT cruiser for their drag radials. Hope this helps.

Jake

[rich tideswell]

starus sedan is a popular choice as well and much more common than pt steelies in the yards

[1qk4dr]

starus sedan is a popular choice as well and much more common than pt steelies in the yards


What about 2000 15" neon alunimum wheels?

[1qk4dr]

http://www.phenixwheels-store.com/servlet/the-5488/2000-dsh-2005-Dodge-Neon-15%22/Detail

If I find these used then paint them the same silver as the srt-4 wheels it wouldn't look way too different.

15x6 and some 225/50/15's dr's

[contraption22]

What about 2000 15" neon alunimum wheels?

These will fit without issue if you have worn brake pads :). But I'd use a 5mm spacer just to be sure.

[contraption22]

http://www.phenixwheels-store.com/servlet/the-5488/2000-dsh-2005-Dodge-Neon-15%22/Detail

If I find these used then paint them the same silver as the srt-4 wheels it wouldn't look way too different.

15x6 and some 225/50/15's dr's

They are very common in salvage yards. I certainly wouldn't pay that price for them when for the same money you could get a lighter aftermarket wheel with better caliper clearance.

Besides... a 6" rim is really too narrow for a 225. It'll fit but it won't be ideal.

[1qk4dr]

I was planning on checking a local yard or two. I just used that as way to show what I want. 225/50/15 show that a rim width of 6-8" is ok. I wanted to get another set of Srt-4 17x6 wheels but they don't make a DR that at least I know of that will fit. Even a 205/40/17 requires a 7 inch wide rim due to the sidewall being so small.

[1qk4dr]

Get a decent 60 and you'll be 13's for sure.
Back in 04 I added a catless downpipe and a couple gallons of 108 and went 13.82, dont remember the mph.
I had to laugh, thats what my 92 Mustang GT went with about $2000 in parts.
I sold it to buy the SRT-4.

Nice! I bought a mustang instead of a srt-4 when they were new because back in 2003 I was able to get the mustang for less than a Neon Srt-4. The Srt stock for stock is a hair faster. I don't have the Mustang anymore but it was fun to drive.

[contraption22]

I was planning on checking a local yard or two. I just used that as way to show what I want. 225/50/15 show that a rim width of 6-8" is ok. I wanted to get another set of Srt-4 17x6 wheels but they don't make a DR that at least I know of that will fit. Even a 205/40/17 requires a 7 inch wide rim due to the sidewall being so small.

Again, the 225's will fit on a 6" wheel, but it won't be ideal.

Using the SRT-4 wheel for drag tires is an even worse idea. They are heavy, narrow, and doesn't leave you with much sidewall for energy absorption.

I'd say if you wanna play at the track, invest in some some cheap 15x7 wheels and some 24.5" M&H slicks. I went 13.6 with slicks on an otherwise-stock SRT-4.

[1qk4dr]

Again, the 225's will fit on a 6" wheel, but it won't be ideal.

Using the SRT-4 wheel for drag tires is an even worse idea. They are heavy, narrow, and doesn't leave you with much sidewall for energy absorption.

I'd say if you wanna play at the track, invest in some some cheap 15x7 wheels and some 24.5" M&H slicks. I went 13.6 with slicks on an otherwise-stock SRT-4.

I know the perfect wheels sp10's from motegi light and cheep, how much abuse can these cars take on those slicks? At what Rpm would you drop the clutch and how good is the stock clutch and drivetrain?

[contraption22]

I know the perfect wheels sp10's from motegi light and cheep, how much abuse can these cars take on those slicks? At what Rpm would you drop the clutch and how good is the stock clutch and drivetrain?

The the drivetrain is quite beefy. The only enemy of the axles is wheelhop, which would be eliminated with slicks.

The stock clutch is good to about 325-350hp, assuming it is in good shape to begin with.

As for launch RPM... thats something you have to experiment with, but with a stock turbo car, you don't have to launch at an astronimical rpm to keep it from bogging.

[1qk4dr]

Well, I finally hit 13's on the street tires. I need a little bit more tire but the all season will do for now.

BTW my egt's hit 1700F, maybe I need to throw more fuel into the car somehow. I haven't tried changing the program with the predator. I hit 14 knock total in the run???

[JamesL]

Well, I finally hit 13's on the street tires. I need a little bit more tire but the all season will do for now.

BTW my egt's hit 1700F, maybe I need to throw more fuel into the car somehow. I haven't tried changing the program with the predator. I hit 14 knock total in the run???

What fuel were you running? If you are pulling 14 degrees from knock, you are way over what I would consider safe. 1700F doesn't sound high to me. To little advance can build EGT temps but, it sounds like you might need to pull some timing, unless the the knock is due to to much fuel. What plugs are you running? What do the plugs look like? Get a wideband O2 ASAP.

[1qk4dr]

What fuel were you running? If you are pulling 14 degrees from knock, you are way over what I would consider safe. 1700F doesn't sound high to me. To little advance can build EGT temps but, it sounds like you might need to pull some timing, unless the the knock is due to to much fuel. What plugs are you running? What do the plugs look like? Get a wideband O2 ASAP.

I was running 8 gallons of 93oct and 2 gallons of 110. I'll pick a wideband asap or reinstall my factory tune.

The during the data log it said
0.00 KNK LT Retar
0.00 KNK ST REtar
14.00 KNK_MAX_TOT

I'll check the plugs later

From Diablo's site
Spark Adjustment

WOT Spark 1k-3.8k:
Allows user to adjust timing +/-10 degrees in the 1000-3800 rpm range
WOT Spark 4k-4.8k:
Allows user to adjust timing +/-10 degrees in the 4000-4800 rpm range
WOT Spark 5k-7k:
Allows user to adjust timing +/-10 degrees in the 5000-7000 rpm range
To properly dial in your timing using the Predator you need to log or monitor the following live data parameters.
Spark, this is your actual timing (in degrees) at any given time.
Knock Retard, this the amount of timing removed (in degrees) due to knock (detonation/ping). The knock sensors can in rare cases pick up other harsh engine noises as well, if this is the case it is recommended to fix the cause of the noise before proceeding.
You basically always want the knock retard to read zero under wide open throttle conditions, it is normal for it to show some KR when stomping on the throttle and also during the shift.
Monitor the spark and the knock retard pids under wide open throttle and see if you have any knock retard, anything higher than 1 should be adjusted in the respective timing range in the Predator , if the knock is severe, 5 deg plus, try lowering spark by 10%, if less than 5 deg, try 5%. Make another wide open pass and monitor the same pids and basically keep doing this until you seen no knock retard.
NOTE: The use of respective grade fuel should be used with tune choice.
91 octane tune will run on 87,89 and 91 octane. The 93 octane (Performance) tune will run on 91 and 93 octane. If severe knock cannot be remedied by adjusting the parameters for it, try to install the factory tune and monitor the knock using it. If knock still is present consider switching fuel brand.
DiabloSport recommends using fuels from the following vendors:
Mobil, Sunoco and Amoco/BP.

Knock Sensors
Disabling the knock sensors can cause severe damage to your engine if used with poor quality or low octane fuels.
Short term Knock sensor enable/disable:
Enable or disable the short term knock sensor.
Long term Knock sensor enable/disable:
Enable or disable the long term knock sensor.

[JamesL]

I was running 8 gallons of 93oct and 2 gallons of 110. I'll pick a wideband asap or reinstall my factory tune.

The during the data log it said
0.00 KNK LT Retar
0.00 KNK ST REtar
14.00 KNK_MAX_TOT

I'll check the plugs later

From Diablo's site
Spark Adjustment

WOT Spark 1k-3.8k:
Allows user to adjust timing +/-10 degrees in the 1000-3800 rpm range
WOT Spark 4k-4.8k:
Allows user to adjust timing +/-10 degrees in the 4000-4800 rpm range
WOT Spark 5k-7k:
Allows user to adjust timing +/-10 degrees in the 5000-7000 rpm range
To properly dial in your timing using the Predator you need to log or monitor the following live data parameters.
Spark, this is your actual timing (in degrees) at any given time.
Knock Retard, this the amount of timing removed (in degrees) due to knock (detonation/ping). The knock sensors can in rare cases pick up other harsh engine noises as well, if this is the case it is recommended to fix the cause of the noise before proceeding.
You basically always want the knock retard to read zero under wide open throttle conditions, it is normal for it to show some KR when stomping on the throttle and also during the shift.
Monitor the spark and the knock retard pids under wide open throttle and see if you have any knock retard, anything higher than 1 should be adjusted in the respective timing range in the Predator , if the knock is severe, 5 deg plus, try lowering spark by 10%, if less than 5 deg, try 5%. Make another wide open pass and monitor the same pids and basically keep doing this until you seen no knock retard.
NOTE: The use of respective grade fuel should be used with tune choice.
91 octane tune will run on 87,89 and 91 octane. The 93 octane (Performance) tune will run on 91 and 93 octane. If severe knock cannot be remedied by adjusting the parameters for it, try to install the factory tune and monitor the knock using it. If knock still is present consider switching fuel brand.
DiabloSport recommends using fuels from the following vendors:
Mobil, Sunoco and Amoco/BP.

Knock Sensors
Disabling the knock sensors can cause severe damage to your engine if used with poor quality or low octane fuels.
Short term Knock sensor enable/disable:
Enable or disable the short term knock sensor.
Long term Knock sensor enable/disable:
Enable or disable the long term knock sensor.

As it said, some knock is expected when you first punch it and during shifts. So when you look at your logs, can you tell whether the knock was at WOT?...And again there might be some other noise triggering the knock. Fuel knock as in way to rich can cause that as well. 14 still seems hi to me. ST Knock is more or less real-time....LT Knock is a learned value over time. Either way, before you go changing up the tune, get some gauges that give you accurate feedback. Check your Fuel adaptives as well. They will tell you if it is pulling or adding fuel.

[1qk4dr]

As it said, some knock is expected when you first punch it and during shifts. So when you look at your logs, can you tell whether the knock was at WOT?...And again there might be some other noise triggering the knock. Fuel knock as in way to rich can cause that as well. 14 still seems hi to me. ST Knock is more or less real-time....LT Knock is a learned value over time. Either way, before you go changing up the tune, get some gauges that give you accurate feedback. Check your Fuel adaptives as well. They will tell you if it is pulling or adding fuel.

I have a AEM Wideband on the way and I'm about to purchase a step colder plug. Probably the Iridium IX 2315 or a v-power NGK. I'll look at the data log again and see if the ST Knock show up during shifts.

[JamesL]

I have a AEM Wideband on the way and I'm about to purchase a step colder plug. Probably the Iridium IX 2315 or a v-power NGK. I'll look at the data log again and see if the ST Knock show up during shifts.

Don't forget we supply a wide range of products for the SRT4. We are also a CMR Dealer for Diablo Sport.

[1qk4dr]

Don't forget we supply a wide range of products for the SRT4. We are also a CMR Dealer for Diablo Sport.

I just looked on you're site, do you sell you're 3" down pipes with cats and/or do you sell it with two bungs for the 02 sensors?

[JamesL]

I just looked on you're site, do you sell you're 3" down pipes with cats and/or do you sell it with two bungs for the 02 sensors?

Give Cindy a call at 281-288-4411