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View Full Version : Out with the White in with the Black- Johnny's Van



Johnny
03-07-2010, 04:17 PM
Thought I would start a Project log on the 1990 Black Van. I have a white 1990 mini van that I fixed up but I really wanted a van with electric windows, lower body cladding and painted silver. What I found was the first two items but it is flat black, not silver. But I kind of like it. One special thing it has is a factory electric sunroof. Here is a photo of the van after I first got it home. I had to travel to Reno, Nevada to get it. The guy thought it had a rod knock. Would not run. That's okay, as I was going to pull the engine from the white one anyway.
Here is a link to the white vans build ...
http://polybushings.com/pages/90minivan.html

but that one will be parted out to fix up the black van.
Here is the black one, ready to get it started.

Johnny
03-07-2010, 04:20 PM
Got the project started.
Took the head off this morning and found what I really thought was wrong with the van, a bad headgasket between #1 and #2. Compression was 5-5-150-150.

Twisted Noodle
03-07-2010, 04:21 PM
I need a van in a bad way..lol Why can't I ever find them??

Johnny
03-07-2010, 04:23 PM
I decided to replace the gasket and get the van running the way it is, all stock. I can always put the better engine in it later. I'd like to see how the tranny is and maybe drive it while I part out the white one.

Johnny
03-07-2010, 04:26 PM
I need a van in a bad way..lol Why can't I ever find them??


I looked on http://www.crazedlist.org for 6 months to find what I wanted.

Sgt Craig
03-07-2010, 05:13 PM
Johhny,

The white van that you are parting out.How is the pass fender and drivers door?If they are good,how much and what would shipping be?Door is not a priority.Need the fender it to patch my left rear.Thanks!

Craig

Sgt Craig
03-07-2010, 05:13 PM
Johhny,

The white van that you are parting out.How is the pass fender and drivers door?If they are good,how much and what would shipping be?Door is not a priority.Need the fender it to patch my left rear.Thanks!

Craig

DOH! That was suppose to be a pm.

Birddog
03-07-2010, 06:30 PM
Johnny, thanks for the link! I been offline too damn long!

Johnny
03-10-2010, 01:04 AM
Can't see it in the first photo, but the guy that had the van ran it so long with a bad head gasket he wrecked the head. Here is a photo of the head. I have never seen one like this before. I had to use another head I had on the shelf.

raccoon
03-10-2010, 01:08 AM
weld it up.

Johnny
03-10-2010, 01:10 AM
I don't have a way to weld aluminum, but good thought. I could have someone do that to save a otherwise good head.

2.216VTurbo
03-10-2010, 01:10 AM
+1 easy fix. Not a junk head unless you have too many spares in the shop;)

Johnny
03-10-2010, 01:12 AM
How can a guy have too many spares?

135sohc
03-10-2010, 01:19 AM
No such thing as to many spares.

turbovanmanČ
03-10-2010, 02:05 PM
Damn Felpro's, :p

Definatley fixable, use a good machine shop, :amen:

MC, if Johhny doesn't have anything, I do.

Johnny
03-10-2010, 07:20 PM
Went to get plates for it today. Bought pretty ones......

Johnny
03-11-2010, 01:49 AM
Finished the head replacement and got it running today. Runs great. Still need to fix some vac lines before a test drive.

Johnny
03-14-2010, 06:42 PM
Worked on the vac lines. I never really understand the multiple hoses going to the mitsu turbos. I follow what I think the diagrams shows but it's not right. It over boosts!
I did get it good enough to test drive it. Trans works fine.
I installed all the missing fuses and everything works except the sunroof.
http://polybushings.com/images/bandwvans.jpg

MILKCARTON
03-14-2010, 06:57 PM
They both look good, I would take apart the turn signals and take the orange out of there, check out my hood vent thread, you can see how it will look clear.

Johnny
03-14-2010, 07:07 PM
Does look good all clear. It's just an inner insert in there?

MILKCARTON
03-14-2010, 07:23 PM
Yea just a piece glued in there, dont worry about getting it all out, the trim covers what is stuck in the glue, the put clear bulbs in there.

Johnny
03-14-2010, 08:54 PM
Well, the sunroof did not work when I tried it but when my gal and I did a test drive, she touched the sunroof with her magic. It works great.
Only the electric door locks don't work, didn't try them before.

Johnny
03-17-2010, 07:42 PM
Added a couple logos today. Very stealth black logos.
http://polybushings.com/images/vanpblogo.JPG

Vigo
03-18-2010, 06:49 PM
Johnny, my friend's new yorker ruined a head like that in a matter of a few miles of runtime. Dont ask me how, as i dont get it, but the headgasket was not blown, i felt when it did blow, and maybe 5 or 10 miles on the motor after that, the head was eaten up. But not nearly to the degree that that one is.

Van looks like a fun project.

Hey Twisted Noodle. I will build you a long wheelbase turbo/413 woody 89 van if you want to trade it for your SL. :p Im taking the turbo harness and setup out of my short wheelbase van to put a 3.0 in and i am thinking about putting it into this grand-van that the 3.0 stuff is coming out of. :p

Johnny
04-07-2010, 11:58 AM
Had the drivers side axle go bad yesterday. Had to change it, while it was in the air, I installed the 1-1/4" front bar I took off the white one I am parting out. Also the tires are bald so I put the white wheels (good tires) on it until my new wheels and tires come in next week.

Johnny
06-04-2010, 05:57 PM
Added the wheels I wanted.

Johnny
06-04-2010, 05:59 PM
Took the white van to the wrecking yard, they gave me $98!

Johnny
06-04-2010, 06:00 PM
Got a large package today, it is one of the seats I ordered.

turbovanmanČ
10-14-2010, 02:36 AM
Lets see some updated pics, :nod:

Johnny
10-14-2010, 11:51 AM
Not done anything to it. Threw on the temp head and just got it running. But have not had time to get back to it. First my daughters van then a customers GLHS Omni. The Omni is just about finished. So I can then get back to my stuff. The van is such a dog, maybe belt is off a tooth. Maybe boost issue. Don't look or care. I just want to take the white van's stuff and stick it in this one. SOON!

turbovanmanČ
10-14-2010, 01:48 PM
Gotcha, :(

Subliminal
10-14-2010, 02:02 PM
I once made it about 2 miles from my house in my old GTS. Popped the head gasket with a loud BANG! Turned around and drove home those 2 miles. My head looked just like the one you pulled when I got it home. That business happens fast!

Johnny
10-21-2010, 12:37 PM
The new bucket sport seats in the above post has been regulated to be used in my Plymouth turbo station wagon.
I was at the wrecking yard a couple days ago and saw a 2000 PT Cruiser, it had seat covers over the buckets. Pulled off the covers and found the buckets in great shape, bought them for $35 each.
Have about 5 hours in designing, fabricating, modifying, and trimming plastic cover pieces to make them fit, but I like the way they turned out. The rails are narrower than the van rails so was easy to just add aluminum flat bar with mounting holes for the PT seats.
I KNOW the van is needing carpet, will install it soon.
Could not use the electric seat base, it would have made the PT seat sit up way to high.
Might find another passenger side pedestal base with a drawer to put on the drivers side.
Now the passenger side has adjustments front to back, as the mini van seats didn't have that.
They are very comfortable.

Johnny
10-25-2010, 12:01 AM
When I parted out the white van I took the hitch off, just installed it on the black one a couple weeks ago. Got to pull my quad trailer with something!

Also put the Gas-A=Just KYB shocks on.

Johnny
10-25-2010, 12:06 AM
Added the better flowing 3 inch exhaust today. The old exhaust had the muffler and cat removed. Was a touch load. The new 3 inch exits out the side.

turbovanmanČ
10-25-2010, 02:15 AM
Very nice, :nod:

Johnny
10-25-2010, 04:36 AM
Added the rear swaybar today. Sure does make it drive around corners better.
Now I have 1-1/4 inch on the front and a 1-1/8th on the rear.

turbovanmanČ
10-25-2010, 12:20 PM
I should get one of those from you one day, not sure if I need it though? :confused:

Johnny
10-25-2010, 01:26 PM
Anyone with a mini van needs a rear bar, whom ever you get one from.

turbovanmanČ
10-25-2010, 01:34 PM
Anyone with a mini van needs a rear bar, whom ever you get one from.

I meant the 1 1/4, I have the factory 2nd gen on right now with a Shelby Z 1 1/4 front sway bar.

Johnny
10-26-2010, 03:39 AM
Added both brand new plastic headlights and bulbs. Sure makes a nice difference!! Also changed the oil.
Getting ready to take a trip to southern Calif.

Johnny
11-27-2010, 03:57 PM
Added new rear brakes and wheel cylinders.
Added new front calipers and pads.
Added new front brake hoses.

135sohc
11-29-2010, 12:42 AM
Did you find an aftermarket source for those headlights or are they new old stock oem parts ?

Johnny
11-29-2010, 01:05 AM
ebay for $35 each

135sohc
11-29-2010, 01:20 AM
Good deal :thumb: Did not know the aftermarket was making them for the first gen vans.

Johnny
11-29-2010, 02:06 AM
Many months ago I ordered and received some Koni struts from FWD Performance. I also ordered and got a coil-over kit. The idea was to make these Koni struts into coil-overs for my Black Turbo Caravan. This weekend I finally got around to installing them. BUT I had issues!!!!
I called Cindy at FWD Performance and she said she would help and send out what ever I needed.
But I did not want to wait. I have a friend with a machine shop just a couple miles away, and he was willing to help out with the modifying I needed if I bought him lunch.

I went from the stock strut to coil over, but it took all day and a just few mods.
http://polybushings.com/images/blk3.jpg

Johnny
11-29-2010, 02:35 AM
1st I used a suggestion from Cindy, wrap the strut shaft with electric tape to protect it from harm.
2nd, I marked where I wanted to cut the spring perch off the strut.
Then used the air cut off tool to cut along my mark.
http://polybushings.com/images/blk1.JPG
http://polybushings.com/images/blk2a.JPG
http://polybushings.com/images/blk2b.JPG

Johnny
11-29-2010, 02:38 AM
With the perch cut off, and the perch brace, I used a sanding disc to smooth off the cut.
http://polybushings.com/images/blk2c.JPGhttp://polybushings.com/images/blk2d.JPGhttp://polybushings.com/images/blk2e.JPG

Johnny
11-29-2010, 02:42 AM
This is where I found out the threaded sleeve would not slide down over the strut housing.
It would just sit on top. Now I need something different, but that would take time. So I decided to take it to get machined...make the ID larger so it wold fit.
http://polybushings.com/images/blk2f.JPGhttp://polybushings.com/images/blk2g.JPG http://polybushings.com/images/blk4.JPG

Johnny
11-29-2010, 02:47 AM
There was another issue. The "hat" of the coil-over spring did not match up with the strut top.
The hat (blue arrow) needed to sit on the bearing (red arrow). Which as you can see is way to small. NOW, I may have just done this all wrong, as I have not worked with coil-overs much. Let along a kit like this. So I just did what I thought I needed to do to make it work.
http://polybushings.com/images/blk2.JPG

Johnny
11-29-2010, 02:52 AM
What I decided to do was machine the top hat crown down so it would come down to the same diameter as the strut bearing. I cut almost all of the crown off. But then there was a sharp inside edge and it was sloppy when fitted to the strut bearing top. So I cut a thick plate washer to fit inside the top so it would not move side to side.
http://polybushings.com/images/blk6.JPG
http://polybushings.com/images/blk7.JPG
http://polybushings.com/images/blk8.JPG

Johnny
11-29-2010, 02:59 AM
Okay parts are done!
I had gone to the hardware store and bought some paint the exact color of the Koni and painted four coats of paint to the parts that were bare metal (where I had cut on the strut).
I then slid the coil-over threaded piece onto the strut.

I then added a poly bump stop, the spring, the modified plate washer, the modified top hat, and then the strut bearing and top. Next was the top washer, lock nut and nut.
http://polybushings.com/images/blk9.JPGhttp://polybushings.com/images/blk10.JPGhttp://polybushings.com/images/blk12.JPGhttp://polybushings.com/images/blk13.JPG

Johnny
11-29-2010, 03:01 AM
This is the before and after shots....
http://polybushings.com/images/blk14.JPGhttp://polybushings.com/images/blk15.JPG

Johnny
11-29-2010, 03:05 AM
While it was on the lift I looked at the front control arm bushings, they looked really bad. Decided to take off the a-arms and replace the bushings with polyurethane ones. Then also, while the a-arms are off, I decided to replace the ball joints. So more work before it comes down off the lift.

RoadWarrior222
11-29-2010, 07:55 AM
Nice, what's next, 305/45R15 tires now the perches are out the way? :D

Johnny
11-29-2010, 12:03 PM
Already have 17's on it! But plans are to lower it after the winter.

Vigo
11-29-2010, 02:10 PM
For what its worth i think you did the coilover mods exactly right!

Keep up the good work and definitely let us know about the ride and handling differences.

Reeves
11-29-2010, 03:08 PM
Well, the sunroof did not work when I tried it but when my gal and I did a test drive, she touched the sunroof with her magic. It works great.



:needpics1:

Johnny
12-01-2010, 04:10 AM
Installed the ball joints and polyurethane front control arm bushings. Job complete!
Ends up the springs are too soft and too short. Ordering new ones!!

Johnny
12-01-2010, 04:13 AM
Also added a polyurethane front engine mount....finally!

54inches
12-01-2010, 01:02 PM
What coilover "kit" is that? I got one off of ebay for a 1st gen NEON and it gave me the exact same parts front and rear. I have some springs that I am not using. The ones for the "rear" or is it front. Anyways, if they will work for you, you can have them.

Check out my build thread and you can see the "kit" that I got. Post #477.

Cheers!

Oh, how much did you have to take off of the strut body?

Johnny
12-01-2010, 01:07 PM
The kit was from FWD Performance.
Springs are Eibach.

I cut off the perch leaving just enough to hold the coil-over threaded part. Look at the photos and look where I drew with the black felt pen...maybe 3/8 of an inch.

54inches
12-01-2010, 01:10 PM
Gotcha, you don't want my junk. :)

No, I meant how much of the strut body did you machine down for the coilover sleeve to slide on?

Johnny
12-01-2010, 01:26 PM
No, I meant how much of the strut body did you machine down for the coilover sleeve to slide on?

I didn't...I cut the black threaded part. I made the ID of it larger so it would fit over the strut.
BUT there was a lip on the top of the strut body I had to take down to make it the same size as the strut body.

GLHNSLHT2
12-01-2010, 02:15 PM
Nice, what's next, 305/45R15 tires now the perches are out the way? :D

Unless you increase the overall height of the tire then the spring perches are not what get's in the "way" :rolleyes:

Johnny
12-01-2010, 02:17 PM
But now that the spring perches are not there, I can use snow chains :)

54inches
12-01-2010, 02:50 PM
I didn't...I cut the black threaded part. I made the ID of it larger so it would fit over the strut.
BUT there was a lip on the top of the strut body I had to take down to make it the same size as the strut body.

Gotcha on the threaded sleeve!

I had to do the same on the strut body of mine; remove the lip that is.

Johnny
12-01-2010, 02:56 PM
Just ordered 400 lb x10 inch springs.

RoadWarrior222
12-01-2010, 11:34 PM
Unless you increase the overall height of the tire then the spring perches are not what get's in the "way" :rolleyes:

Yeah I remembered that later.

Vigo
12-03-2010, 02:04 AM
I guess the springs you have are 8 inches?

Also, do they have the spring rate marked on them?

Johnny
12-03-2010, 02:14 AM
Marked on the box.

GLHNSLHT2
12-03-2010, 03:35 AM
That's a big step up. Koni's couldn't control 400lb'ers on an Omni I rode in.

Johnny
12-03-2010, 03:37 AM
Weight might make a big difference.
If they are not right, I'll change. Then everyone will know in case they want to do this.

Vigo
12-03-2010, 04:36 AM
Im also guessing the thing you want is probably between 275 and 400, but being on the stiff side is better than hitting the bumpstops which im guessing is what happened with the 8" springs.

RoadWarrior222
12-03-2010, 09:25 AM
That's a big step up. Koni's couldn't control 400lb'ers on an Omni I rode in.


Weight might make a big difference.

Yup, with the seats out of my voyager, nothing in the back, I'd characterize the rear end as "poorly controlled", needs about 200lb back there to ride smooth.

Johnny
12-03-2010, 01:27 PM
While waiting for the new springs to show, decided to replace the outer tie rods. So picked them up last night. Front end should be tight "just like new-even better" when I am done.

Vigo
12-03-2010, 02:03 PM
Yup, with the seats out of my voyager, nothing in the back, I'd characterize the rear end as "poorly controlled", needs about 200lb back there to ride smooth.

Well, the weight on the front end doesnt change as dramatically, and its ALWAYS far heavier. Gotta figure the front end of a van weighs like 1600lbs at all times if not more. Thats gotta be several hundred lbs more than an omni, thus the statement Johnny made.

turbovanmanČ
12-07-2010, 08:37 PM
Also added a polyurethane front engine mount....finally!

Dude, :o lol.


Weight might make a big difference.
If they are not right, I'll change. Then everyone will know in case they want to do this.

Sweet. I would still use a 12" spring, IIRC, my old coil overs had a 400 spring and it was too much, but then could have been that the Bilsteins couldn't control them.

Johnny
12-07-2010, 10:22 PM
Well the 10 inch are on the way, we shall see. I hope they work good enough to use the van. I am taking off on a trip.

Johnny
12-09-2010, 03:49 PM
Springs got here this morning, changed them. Seem just right so far!
One photo compares the two springs. The other photo shows them installed.
First time I tried them they raised the van so I screwed the adjuster down 1.35 inches and seems right now.
Now off to the alignment rack.

GLHNSLHT2
12-09-2010, 04:03 PM
looks a lot better, now just hope they ride well. If you go with a softer spring and go with a much softer rate you might have to step to the 12" spring but what you've got looks good now.

Johnny
12-09-2010, 05:52 PM
Had it aligned. Drives very nice. Corners flat! But then, the old struts were totally gone.

turbovanmanČ
12-09-2010, 05:57 PM
Good info, thank's.

Did you lower it or stock ride height?

Johnny
12-09-2010, 06:09 PM
Van is stock ride height still for now. Putting studded tires on Saturday and then Sunday heading to snow country for a week to go skiing. Will lower it later.

turbovanmanČ
12-09-2010, 06:44 PM
Gotcha, :thumb:

Reeves
12-09-2010, 08:36 PM
You bringing that van to SDAC? We might have a war of the murdered out lowered vans with gunmetal clading and pimp wheels!

Johnny
12-09-2010, 08:38 PM
I hope to bring my wagon with the SDAC engine in it.

GLHNSLHT2
12-09-2010, 09:30 PM
Tow the wagon with the van :)

Johnny
12-09-2010, 09:35 PM
Why not just drive the wagon?
If I tow, it would be with my diesel truck.

turbovanmanČ
12-09-2010, 10:01 PM
Why not just drive the wagon?
If I tow, it would be with my diesel truck.

I'll probably borrow a diesel truck to bring my van, :thumb:

Johnny
12-09-2010, 10:09 PM
Are you really going this year??

Reeves
12-10-2010, 10:47 AM
Tow the wagon with the van :)


Why not just drive the wagon?
If I tow, it would be with my diesel truck.

Cause it would be WAY cooler to have your van there and the wagon there! Especially cool when you used the van to tow!

turbovanmanČ
12-10-2010, 06:59 PM
Are you really going this year??

Planning on it, a few locals too, so probably 4-6 of us. I don't want to drive the van that far, so I'll tow it of course.

Johnny
12-13-2010, 12:35 PM
The ride and performance of the coil set up I used is great!!!

But have an issue of something...the issue I call bearing delay. The strut/spring should turn smoothly with the hub. But it doesn't. The bearing is new and works fine. I took it off the double check. When you turn the van, you hear and see (while watching and someone else is doing the turning) the spring will turn then the bearing catches up in jerks. While this happens you hear the spring "boing" while it jerks.
Everything looks right, but it is not. And I am not sure what to do next.

Vigo
12-13-2010, 03:29 PM
Hmm, i would be looking for scrape marks anywhere near the bearing where there might be something rubbing that is keeping all the weight from riding on the bearing, that might be scraping.

turbovanmanČ
12-13-2010, 03:49 PM
The ride and performance of the coil set up I used is great!!!

But have an issue of something...the issue I call bearing delay. The strut/spring should turn smoothly with the hub. But it doesn't. The bearing is new and works fine. I took it off to double check. When you turn the van, you hear and see (while watching and someone else is doing the turning) the spring will turn then then bearing catches up in jerks. While this happens you hear the spring "boing" while it jerks.
Everything looks right, but it is not. And I am not sure what to do next.

My guess would be the spring spacer shoulder isn't sitting on the upper bearing plate race, so its not letting the bearing move.

wheming
12-18-2010, 06:27 AM
Van is stock ride height still for now. Putting studded tires on Saturday and then Sunday heading to snow country for a week to go skiing. Will lower it later.

Looks good Johnny! I'm jealous...

I feel like i'm driving an AWD version of Mean Mini right now.

(KYB Strut assemblies 43019 apparently for a V6!)

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_bjy9rItVUMY/TQyLhWzNJLI/AAAAAAAAA50/E_e2Kg7MYII/s640/2010-12-14%2015.14.04.jpg

Johnny
12-18-2010, 11:21 AM
My guess would be the spring spacer shoulder isn't sitting on the upper bearing plate race, so its not letting the bearing move.
It is though, taken a look at that. Even taken it apart and double checked.

Johnny
12-18-2010, 11:25 AM
To get it fixed, I decided to buy a couple items from Rich...

http://rbryant.freeshell.org/suspension_products.htm

Vigo
12-18-2010, 02:53 PM
You better take it to SDAC and autox it after all this high faluting suspension work.

turbovanmanČ
12-18-2010, 07:00 PM
To get it fixed, I decided to buy a couple items from Rich...

http://rbryant.freeshell.org/suspension_products.htm

Interesting.


You better take it to SDAC and autox it after all this high faluting suspension work.

I will with mine, lol.

Johnny
12-19-2010, 01:54 AM
What?...and show up all them small cars? I can't be mean, beating up on things smaller than me :)

TurboV6Van
01-14-2011, 07:25 PM
ebay for $35 each
Hey Johnny, i searched high and low on ebay for them. Lowest one was like $70 each, do you happen to have a link to the seller? Thanks, Ricardo

Johnny
01-15-2011, 02:18 AM
I just looked every week. Dont remember who it was, sorry.
Bought one one week and 4 weeks later bought the other side.

Johnny
01-27-2011, 09:38 PM
My strut tops came in today from Rich. The only issue I am not sure how to deal with is the bolt that came with them will not screw onto my Koni struts. Decided to drill them out and tap them to the larger diameter. The (3-bolt) bolt pattern is different but I can deal with that.
Photo is of the top and bottom of the pieces.

Johnny
01-29-2011, 03:23 PM
I installed the parts yesterday.
Modifications needed:
Marked and drilled two new holes on each side as the mounting bolt pattern is different.
Cut the strut opening to be able to access the camber adjusting bolts.
Drill and tap the special nut as the Koni was a larger diameter. Used a 1/2 drill then tap was 14x1.5
Drilled the inner sleeve/bearing to open it enough to slide over the Koni strut.

RoadWarrior222
01-30-2011, 10:31 AM
I'd have wanted to weld a plate over those old holes... or get some bigass fender washers cut flat on the inside to spread the load around them... just thinking it wouldn't hold up to rally conditions... or a season of solo...

Johnny
01-30-2011, 12:00 PM
I'll keep an eye on them. If any cracks show up, I can lower the strut down, cover it and either weld it up and maybe even reinforce it with a ring of steel around the whole top. But this mini van isn't going rally or autocrossing. But, I'll watch it.

Johnny
01-31-2011, 07:52 PM
Got it aligned again today. Drives great with no "spring" noises this time. Tops work great.

Reeves
01-31-2011, 08:25 PM
Got it aligned again today. Drives great with no "spring" noises this time. Tops work great.

:needpics1:

Johnny
01-31-2011, 10:16 PM
Photo of the alignment? Van hasn't change since the last photo. Just installed the srt4 tops...in the photos above.

Reeves
02-01-2011, 10:29 AM
Photo of the alignment? Van hasn't change since the last photo. Just installed the srt4 tops...in the photos above.

Thought maybe you lowered it more.

Johnny
02-01-2011, 11:44 AM
Not till I remove a rear spring and add the air bags. It will have to wait, my wagon project is next.

Reeves
02-01-2011, 11:51 AM
Not till I remove a rear spring and add the air bags. It will have to wait, my wagon project is next.

did you start a thread on the wagon project? Is that what THE motor is going in?

Johnny
02-01-2011, 12:02 PM
Yes and yes.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?49934-Raffle-engine-into-1986-factory-Turbo-wagon

Reeves
02-01-2011, 12:29 PM
Thanks!

rbryant
02-02-2011, 02:29 PM
I installed the parts yesterday.
Modifications needed:
Marked and drilled two new holes on each side as the mounting bolt pattern is different.
Cut the strut opening to be able to access the camber adjusting bolts.
Drill and tap the special nut as the Koni was a larger diameter. Used a 1/2 drill then tap was 14x1.5
Drilled the inner sleeve/bearing to open it enough to slide over the Koni strut.

Note that Johnny is using BC camber plates with the Konis as an experiment. That is why some modifications were required.

I am working on top plate for the BC camber plate setup so that the stock van holes are used and new holes are not required but it isn't quite ready yet and he didn't want to wait.

My final setup will still work best if the center hole is enlarged to 4" but will come with a reinforcement ring that can be bolted or welded to the top of the tower.

That way SRT4 BCs can be used on the caravan or with some simple drilling and retapping of the BC hardware (as Johnny describes) the BC plates can be used with the Konis.

-Rich

---------- Post added at 11:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:28 AM ----------


Got it aligned again today. Drives great with no "spring" noises this time. Tops work great.

I would recommend changing the M6 adjustment bolts from stainless to 12.9 rated and using 6 per side (add one to the center threaded hole) instead of only 4.

The stainless bolts aren't nearly as strong as an alloy bolt and they are now being used on a heavier van instead of the SRT4. Upgrading them is just cheap insurance!

This is one difference between the plates I designed which use M8 12.9 bolts and the BC plates that come with stainless M6 bolts. I haven't heard of them breaking from use but I have heard of people over torquing them and twisting them off. I plan to provide 12.9 bolts with my adapter kit.

-Rich

Johnny
02-02-2011, 02:38 PM
I'll do the bolt change and add the 2 in the center, thanks!
AND they are working great!

shelbyconcepts
02-03-2011, 06:45 PM
John/ Rich,

Could you have redrilled the bolt pattern on the camber plates instead of drilling the shock towers?

Good thread BTW....

Tim

Johnny
02-03-2011, 06:54 PM
The plates (see photo above in this thread) were not large enough to make new holes to match the mini van holes.
Making the new holes in the van was no big deal, IF you have an angle drill. The hole in the rear, closest to the firewall
was the tough one to get to.

rbryant
02-03-2011, 07:11 PM
The plates (see photo above in this thread) were not large enough to make new holes to match the mini van holes.
Making the new holes in the van was no big deal, IF you have an angle drill. The hole in the rear, closest to the firewall
was the tough one to get to.

Yea not a big deal but I will still make new plates that are bolt on once I get the bolt angles figured out...

-Rich

RoadWarrior222
02-03-2011, 08:42 PM
The hole in the rear, closest to the firewall was the tough one to get to.

Thoughts and ideas for others following...

i) might get it by drillling up from under, if you're careful and mark/measure right.
ii) pilot hole it with say 1/8 in a dremel or mini die grinder type thing and enlarge it from under... Or pilot hole it with a dremel/diegrinder and then put a burr on and enlarge it.

---------- Post added at 07:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:40 PM ----------

Edit: hang on a sec, does it actually matter if it's rotated slightly? take the existing hole there as the first one, and redrill the other two instead.

Johnny
02-03-2011, 10:56 PM
ake the existing hole there as the first one, and redrill the other two instead.

That is what I did. I used the inboard one and drilled the other two. IF I used the two outboard ones, the inboard one was not on a flat surface.

RoadWarrior222
02-03-2011, 11:49 PM
I mean the existing hole by the firewall, rotate a tad, and redrill the inboard and the other outboard.

Johnny
02-03-2011, 11:56 PM
That might have worked just fine. I was just trying to keep the adjusters facing the right way...left to right.

Johnny
01-02-2013, 09:05 PM
Pulled the engine and tranny yesterday. Tranny was going away and engine seemed tired.
Adding rebuilt tranny, Hughes torque converter, and the "GOOD" engine that was in my white van.

Johnny
01-13-2013, 11:57 PM
Got the other engine in. Axles in. Swaybar hooked back up. All three mounts installed. Power steering pump and belt installed. Swapped in a AC style alternator bracket, installed the alternator and belt. Lower and upper radiator hose on.
More to do, wish I could work on it tomorrow but have to work....

Johnny
01-13-2013, 11:59 PM
I'm going to want to install an intercooler. Quick glance looks like the intercooler hose routing is a challenge.

RoadWarrior222
01-14-2013, 08:56 AM
AJ has come to the same problem, though has SRT-4 motor so everything might be arse backwards to yours.

Johnny
02-23-2013, 12:53 AM
The tranny and hughes torque converter did not work out. Was way to high stall.
Changed it out the last couple days.
Now I have a custom made one from a 93 leBaron (2.5 NA) made to turbo specs.
It has a GT Cruiser turbo lock up torque converter. I will put a switch on the dash
so I can lock it up when I want. Took it on a test drive for 25 miles. Works great.
I am going to return the Hughes...unless someone wants a high stall for racing.

wheming
02-23-2013, 08:03 AM
I'm going to want to install an intercooler. Quick glance looks like the intercooler hose routing is a challenge.

There are some other threads out there for intercooler options in vans.
I've got all my engineering and parts to reinstall a/c when the rebuilt engine and trans go in Mean Mini. And I'll retain the Spearco intercooler. I did need to change the turbo piping a bit.
I'll know better how it all works out when running again.

Johnny
02-23-2013, 12:12 PM
I moved the AC condensor and radiator toward the passenger side about 3 inches.
This opened up a gap large enough for intercooler pipe to go around the radiator.
I am going to put a small intercooler in front of the radiator area. Not optimum
but better than nothing. I'll take photos when I install it. Here is the intercooler I
am going to use.....

GLHNSLHT2
02-23-2013, 12:16 PM
I think by far the easiest i/c setup for minivans is a water/air. There just isn't a lot of room behind the grill for an intercooler, and I don't like hoses going under the front lower rad support just in case you somehow hit one.


I really like this kit with the type 117 radiator and the bosch pump. http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=216&products_id=1006&osCsid=a18b3bb1adf20cb30588b0bfd9a46468
Here are some pics of it installed http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/Lukes/WaterAir+IC/

We added a 80's volvo radiator overflow bottom and drilled a bleed hole into the water manifold on the i/c so the pump would push any air caught in the i/c out into the overflow bottle. This makes it a cake walk to fill the system now and guaranteed to get all the air out. You just fill up the overflow, turn the system on (anytime the key is on) and keep the overflow filled up as the pump does the rest.


For a BOV as you can see we took on of my talon BOV flanges: http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/Fabricated+Machined+Parts/BOV+Flange/ and machined the bottom off and just welded it to the end tank of the i/c.

Johnny
02-23-2013, 01:00 PM
Here is the gap I opened up by moving the two over. Just right for 2-1/2" tubing.
Also showing where I plan to put the intercooler. Also going to replace the res-tank
with a car one...its shorter.

2.216VTurbo
02-23-2013, 05:09 PM
I left the rad where it is but moved the AC condenser over twards the pass side,then hole sawed two 2 3/4" holes for the 2 1/2" charge piping:thumb: I'll do a full pic write up when I get a couple hours to disassemble & paint everything. Been running 12-13 PSI for a couple weeks now. Loving it:eyebrows:

bakes
02-23-2013, 05:48 PM
John you bringing the van out or the ram on sunday
ps chilly is on
oh PM sent

1BADVAN
02-23-2013, 06:04 PM
On the coolant reservoir , i just moved it more to the left. Re-drilled the holes and it worked great.

2.216VTurbo
02-28-2013, 10:15 AM
Woody is intercooled now and I've kept the AC. Runs strong for stock motor with nothing but exhaust/intercooler:thumb:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69434-Show-Off-Your-Mini!!

turbovanmanČ
03-10-2013, 04:44 AM
The tranny and hughes torque converter did not work out. Was way to high stall.
Changed it out the last couple days.
Now I have a custom made one from a 93 leBaron (2.5 NA) made to turbo specs.
It has a GT Cruiser turbo lock up torque converter. I will put a switch on the dash
so I can lock it up when I want. Took it on a test drive for 25 miles. Works great.
I am going to return the Hughes...unless someone wants a high stall for racing.

Who did it? LMK how it works.

Johnny
03-10-2013, 09:40 AM
I'm pulling the trans again today. Shift linkage clip came off and messed all up. I might have done harm also. Taking it out to get it fixed and checked out. Nothing he did or I did, just a oops!

Johnny
03-20-2013, 10:32 PM
Got the trans back all fixed and freshened up. Installed it. Works great!!
Also installed a intercooler. Assorted photos of the install. Had to move
the condenser and radiator over toward the passenger side. And a lot
of metal trimming.

wheming
03-20-2013, 11:58 PM
Where is that radiator cover piece from??
I've not seen one on these before.

Johnny
03-21-2013, 08:15 AM
From 1990 mini vans. Just stock.

Rrider
03-21-2013, 02:34 PM
Thank you for posting those nice pics, that will help me out with mine!

2.216VTurbo
03-25-2013, 09:43 PM
Nice work, I laid it out with both charge tubes on the drivers side of the Radiator but I couldn't make it fit:( are those tubes 2.5"? I ended up hole sawing between the rad &condenser but lost the fact AC cond fan in the process, gotta mount ansmall aftermarket one now.

So, how's it run?? I swear it added 25 or 30 HP at the same boost level:thumb:

Johnny
03-25-2013, 10:59 PM
Yes 2-1/2" with a 3 in airfilter inlet to the turbo, where it reduces.
Yes runs much better!!!!!!!!!!!

Johnny
04-22-2013, 11:55 PM
Blew a head gasket this week. Was traveling back from Portland towing the empty car dollie. Oil got low (2 qts) and didnt realize it. Over heated. Added oil and saw there was a little water in there also. Made it home but not had the change to see what oil line blew. Its behind the engine.