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A.J.
02-27-2010, 08:20 PM
I finally landed a SRT-4 engine. It was turned in as a core to an import junk yard I use to work at. The manager knew I was looking for one. He set it aside and called me. I tore it down and inside is flawless. I got the block magna fluxed and the head pressure checked and both are okay. From what I can tell they never changed there oil because it was black. The top of the pistons were coated with thick gooey carbon so either the oil rings stop doing their job or the turbo was letting oil in the intake track. Either way I score an $800 motor for $250.

After the parts washer:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0041.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0051.jpg

After a little love:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0060.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0062.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0059-1.jpg

Number four rod and number five main bearings:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0057.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0056.jpg

Number four rod and number five main bearing journals:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0054-2.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0053-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0052-1.jpg

I plan on using an automatic transmission. Either from a 2.4 Caravan or a Neon. Preferably from a Caravan. I'm hoping the Caravan trans with have stronger internals. If not I have an A/T out of a '88 T-I Daytona that cooked the front clutch I can rob the beefier internals from.

I'm going to keep the stock '89 SMEC I have in it now. My 'puter is socketed and I just got an Ostrich.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do for an exhaust or intake manifold. I heard the SRT intakes hit the auto tranny so I might go with the 2.4 Caravan intake.

While I was waiting for for the block to get back I cleaned up the valve cover. It was in an engine compartment fire. I was afraid of getting glass bead stuck in the baffles so I had to remove them. I ground down the peaned over aluminum, removed the sheet metal, drilled and taped new holes.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0064.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0078.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0063.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0066.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0068.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0069.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0072.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0075.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0079.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0080.jpg

I’m in the process of porting the head. More to come.

A.J.

turbokid
02-28-2010, 09:18 PM
Wow looks really good!
Glad to see you are moving forward with the project.

omni_840
02-28-2010, 09:20 PM
Cool project!

black86glhs
02-28-2010, 10:18 PM
What, its not done yet????;)

Vigo
03-03-2010, 12:20 AM
So is this going into the van you already have, or a new one?

A.J.
03-03-2010, 11:30 PM
So is this going into the van you already have, or a new one?

Ya it's going in the van that's in my avatar. I'm going to assemble/fabricate as much as I can out of the van to cut down on down time. The only thing that's going to hang me up is the front engine mount.

A.J.

Turbo224
03-03-2010, 11:37 PM
Cool project!

1BADVAN
03-04-2010, 12:49 PM
Ya it's going in the van that's in my avatar. I'm going to assemble/fabricate as much as I can out of the van to cut down on down time. The only thing that's going to hang me up is the front engine mount.

A.J.

I am hoping to do this someday with my van! Post lots of pics please!

On the front mount I have seen a bunch of guys use the stock mount with an extra plate welded on to cover the extra bolt holes. Check out the swap section there are a bunch of pics with a few diff ideas

turbovanmanČ
03-04-2010, 01:58 PM
Nice project, your going to love 16 valves, :amen:

Neon and 2.4 van trans internals are the same.

1BADVAN
03-04-2010, 02:19 PM
whats the purpose of removing the baffle then attaching it with screws?

turbovanmanČ
03-04-2010, 02:31 PM
whats the purpose of removing the baffle then attaching it with screws?

To clean out the shi*t. He sand blasted it, if he didn't take off the baffle, that sand would get into the oil and BOOM. I bet that baffle was plugged up with carbon too.

Per AJ-


While I was waiting for for the block to get back I cleaned up the valve cover. It was in an engine compartment fire. I was afraid of getting glass bead stuck in the baffles so I had to remove them. I ground down the peaned over aluminum, removed the sheet metal, drilled and taped new holes.

A.J.
03-04-2010, 10:40 PM
I am hoping to do this someday with my van! Post lots of pics please!

On the front mount I have seen a bunch of guys use the stock mount with an extra plate welded on to cover the extra bolt holes. Check out the swap section there are a bunch of pics with a few diff ideas

I plan on taking lots of pictures once things get rolling. I'm also going to do an item list, what I used and off of what. And a price list of what I spent.

Most of the front mounts people have made were with the 2.4 and the 568 trans. They have to deal with one of the holes not lining up. I'm not going to have that issue. I'm sure I'm not going to have a problem making this mount (have you seen some of my other fabricates stuff?) I just have to wait until the engine/trans is in the van to mock it up.

I'm working on the exhaust manifold right now. I'm going to be using my T3 Garret with the Chrysler flange.

I'm on hold with porting the head. I have a junk 2001 PT head that I want to cut through the intake and exhaust ports to see how much meat I have to remove so I don't window a runner.


Nice project, your going to love 16 valves, :amen:

Neon and 2.4 van trans internals are the same.

I wanted to do the 2.4 head/2.5 block hybrid but with the location of the A/C compressor, I couldn't figure out that hurtle and I'm not going without here in AZ. Also I wanted to get away from the 2.2/2.5 block. The 2.4 just seems like a better updated design and I like the flat oil pan gasket surface.

As far as the difference in the Neon and Caravan 413's, I was pretty sure I was going to have to swap over the beefed up '88 turbo internals I have into it. But what about the the differential ratio. I was thinking the Caravan would be closer to what I need seeing that it's going into a van.


I bet that baffle was plugged up with carbon too.

Per AJ-

You can see a bunch of carbon in one of the pictures.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
03-04-2010, 10:54 PM
As far as the difference in the Neon and Caravan 413's, I was pretty sure I was going to have to swap over the beefed up '88 turbo internals I have into it. But what about the the differential ratio. I was thinking the Caravan would be closer to what I need seeing that it's going into a van.



Neon and later van have the HD internals and they also have the bigger diff bearing. They still need some tender loving but they are stout.

Ratio, you'd have to run the part number on the side to figure out what gears you have. Also, you'll now have LU, :amen:

A.J.
03-04-2010, 11:03 PM
Neon and later van have the HD internals and they also have the bigger diff bearing. They still need some tender loving but they are stout.

Ratio, you'd have to run the part number on the side to figure out what gears you have. Also, you'll now have LU, :amen:

So if they have HD internals what's going to need this tender loving you speak of? And what about the 31th that's bolted to the little 2.0 SOHC? Is it the same as what's bolted to the 2.4?

YES LU! I'm looking forward to a little better then the 18 m.p.g. I'm getting now.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
03-04-2010, 11:06 PM
So if they have HD internals what's going to need this tender loving you speak of? And what about the 31th that's bolted to the little 2.0 SOHC? Is it the same as what's bolted to the 2.4?

YES LU! I'm looking forward to a little better then the 18 m.p.g. I'm getting now.

A.J.

All the later 31TH's have the extra clutch packs and larger diff bearings. They still need the HD rear strut rod, governor fix, tighten clutch packs, valve body mods, accumlator removed, higher line pressure, weld pinions etc. I sell a rear drum that uses a needle bearing, the stockers get chewed up using the stock thrust washer. Also get a 2000+ Neon TC, it already has bearings inside.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3180

At least you get 18 mpg, :(

tsiconquest88
03-04-2010, 11:17 PM
yea my van got maybe 18 on a good day with its a-413, its much better since i put the 520 in it, still not REAL good though, maybe 22-24 at times.

A.J.
03-05-2010, 01:20 AM
All the later 31TH's have the extra clutch packs and larger diff bearings. They still need the HD rear strut rod, governor fix, tighten clutch packs, valve body mods, accumlator removed, higher line pressure, weld pinions etc. I sell a rear drum that uses a needle bearing, the stockers get chewed up using the stock thrust washer. Also get a 2000+ Neon TC, it already has bearings inside.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3180

At least you get 18 mpg, :(

I haven't done any of these mods to the trans I got out of an '89 T-I Daytona and haven't had any problems. That's what's currently in my van. I've done some reading on those sites you linked to. Other than the governor (from what I understand the stock one sucks) I don't really see why I need to do any of these. If you have some time could you explain why each of these should be done.

Thanks for the tip on the 2000 Neon converter. Is it safe to assume that if I get a 2000 + Neon trans it'll have the converter I need or should I just buy one to make sure?

I'm only getting 18 because I'm not using my A/C right now. It'll drop down to 16 m.p.g. come 90* + temps.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
03-05-2010, 01:31 AM
I haven't done any of these mods to the trans I got out of an '89 T-I Daytona and haven't had any problems. That's what's currently in my van. I've done some reading on those sites you linked to. Other than the governor (from what I understand the stock one sucks) I don't really see why I need to do any of these. If you have some time could you explain why each of these should be done.

Thanks for the tip on the 2000 Neon converter. Is it safe to assume that if I get a 2000 + Neon trans it'll have the converter I need or should I just buy one to make sure?

I'm only getting 18 because I'm not using my A/C right now. It'll drop down to 16 m.p.g. come 90* + temps.

A.J.

You should always buy a new converter anyway's but yeah, any 2000 and up is ok.

As for the trans, Carl's link pretty well sums up why you need each mod and remember, you now have a 16 valve, more torque and power. If you need a breakdown of each mod, I'll do one up.

A.J.
03-05-2010, 10:58 AM
You should always buy a new converter anyway's but yeah, any 2000 and up is ok.

As for the trans, Carl's link pretty well sums up why you need each mod and remember, you now have a 16 valve, more torque and power. If you need a breakdown of each mod, I'll do one up.

I'll read it over again. I'll PM you any questions I have so this thread doesn't turn into a mainly transmission discussion and post the mods I do.

A.J.

fleckster
03-05-2010, 02:27 PM
The newer 31TH for the Neons and vans (I believe '96 and newer) also have an extra pinion gear in the carrier as well for extra strength.

turbovanmanČ
03-05-2010, 02:39 PM
The newer 31TH for the Neons and vans (I believe '96 and newer) also have an extra pinion gear in the carrier as well for extra strength.

Yep, too bad Mopar didn't add a 5th to the rear pinion too, :(

1BADVAN
05-07-2010, 04:35 PM
Any updates??

A.J.
05-07-2010, 08:28 PM
No. I started building my exhaust manifold but haven't finish. I started to port my head but I need to cut up a spare to see how much meat I can remove. I still haven't found a factory intake. I haven't been able to make it to the junk yard to get the a/c compressor, p/s pump, alternator, related brackets, and transmission yet. I think this might end up being a winter project when things get slow.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
05-08-2010, 12:25 AM
Bummer, :(

A.J.
05-08-2010, 01:11 AM
Bummer, :(

Bummer for the project but not a bummer because I'm busy and I'll be able to FUND the project. :thumb:

On a side note, a customer of mine has a late 90's early 2000 Acura CL-S. He had me swap out his 3.2 for an Odyssey 3.5 (among other mods) and just wrecked his car. He's contemplating buying it back to build another one. I told him that if he decides to swap his mods to another car I'd lower my labor rate if he does it in the winter (my slow time) to keep me busy. He pays less and I get money doing gravy work. SOOOOO that might push MY project back a little more. My SRT-4 swap would have been done by now but my van runs good with the 2.5 that's in it now, so there is no rush.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
05-08-2010, 04:32 AM
Yeah, you gotta make money when you can, that's why my van is still not touched, but also tore up my shoulder, :(

A.J.
06-29-2010, 11:12 PM
Seeing that I can't find and SRT-4 intake for less than $100 I decided to try an intake off of a '99 Mitsubishi 2.0 DOHC N/A Eclipse engine. When I was planning on doing the DOHC hybrid I was working at an import junk yard. So I accumulated some parts that I though I might use. I think this intake will work with minimal modification. I'm going to have to put the throttle body on the other side. I'll cut the t-body flange off of a T-1 intake and have it welded. I'll make a block off plate for the other side. I'll have to drill a couple of hole and cut the ears off the bottom and have them welded on the top to secure it to the head.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0315.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0316-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0317-1.jpg

The black marker is where I'll have to drill.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0311.jpg

You can see why I have to cut the bottom ears off and weld them up top.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0307-1.jpg

A.J.

rbryant
06-30-2010, 01:39 AM
Why not just leave the TB on the passenger side? If you are running a front mount intercooler it would probably be easier anyway....

I looked at that intake manifold but it just won't clear the hood on a car. You have it easy with that monster engine bay.

-Rich

A.J.
06-30-2010, 11:47 PM
Why not just leave the TB on the passenger side? If you are running a front mount intercooler it would probably be easier anyway....

I looked at that intake manifold but it just won't clear the hood on a car. You have it easy with that monster engine bay.

-Rich

I already have enough 90* bends in my intercooler plumbing. I don't want to have two more right before the throttle body. If it's on the other side I have more room to make the bends gradual.

I'll have BIG news tomorrow. Stand by..............

A.J.

Twisted Noodle
06-30-2010, 11:51 PM
Currently looking for one for my SL

A.J.
07-01-2010, 09:49 PM
I found my Holy Grail to complete my SRT-4 build. A '98 mini-van with a N/A 2.4, automatic with a lock-up torque converter. This thing has 95% of what I need to get this done. I found it on Craig's List for $600 and another $100 to tow it to my shop. It has a bad rod bearing. The transmission shifts but I'm going to go through it anyways.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0326-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0328-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0322.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0318-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0323.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0325-1.jpg

Lock up solenoid plug.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0321-1.jpg

The only hang up I'm gonna have is the decision on the intake. If I hold out until the end I might come upon an SRT-4 intake, if not it'll probably be the '99 Mitsubishi. Or use the bottom of the 2.4 N/A intake and build a plenum chamber.

A.J.

1BADVAN
07-01-2010, 10:01 PM
That is awesome! Great find!
Just FYI a stock SRT 4 intake won't work with an auto tranny t
it hits the bell housing. I thought I would post this just incase you didn't know and before you spent the money on anything

A.J.
07-01-2010, 10:49 PM
That is awesome! Great find!
Just FYI a stock SRT 4 intake won't work with an auto tranny t
it hits the bell housing. I thought I would post this just incase you didn't know and before you spent the money on anything

Thanks but I am aware of that. Nothing a little cutting and welding can't fix. :thumb:

A.J.

rich tideswell
07-03-2010, 08:46 AM
$65 turbo pt cruiser intake here http://www.detroitneonowners.org/viewtopic.php?t=18207

A.J.
07-03-2010, 10:49 AM
Thanks but I should have specified I wanted a Neon SRT-4 intake. I don't want to have to pull the intake to check or replace spark plugs.

A.J.

tsiconquest88
07-04-2010, 10:31 AM
Hey, i may have got you something, i will see if the guy has one seperate or willing to seperate from one of the 2 srt-4 engines he is selling. I emailed. I will let you know whats up. he has a perfect mani/turbo setup for sale for 100 bucks lol. so i mean how much could he want for the intake mani? lol. He is local to me so i figure if this is a go and a price you want, you can paypal me the amount plus whatever ship is, and i will send it out to you.

tsiconquest88
07-04-2010, 02:03 PM
ok we been going back and forth over intakes, lol. He keeps saying he dont have the turbo or ex manifold, sold them, and both times i keep saying no, the intake manifold. IDK htf some people own turbo vehicles. This time i clearly stated the intake manifold is the manifold that has the injectors at, between it and the fuel rail. Hence intake part of the motor lol. Not the exhaust portion.

A.J.
07-05-2010, 04:21 PM
Thanks for the effort. I'm not in a rush to get the intake, the engine isn't even together yet. I will post up here if and when I find one so anybody who is looking will know they can stop.

A.J.

tsiconquest88
07-05-2010, 05:04 PM
ok, well just letting you know, he said he does have them and will sell one. He is waiting wednesday or so when he goes back over to the shop his car is at with all his parts. He didnt give a price yet but its probably not going to be much. I dont think he even realized how much ---- is worth for pricing lol. I will get the price before just saying ok to him though of course.

Mopar318
07-05-2010, 05:30 PM
Thanks but I should have specified I wanted a Neon SRT-4 intake. I don't want to have to pull the intake to check or replace spark plugs.

A.J.

how about a stratus intake?

A.J.
07-05-2010, 07:01 PM
how about a stratus intake?

I thought about it. Those I have no trouble locating in a junk yard if I decide to go that route.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
07-05-2010, 07:56 PM
Damn, nice score, :amen:

I can honestly say I've never seen a 2.4 van around here, :(

tsiconquest88
07-05-2010, 07:59 PM
i have seen them more often than 3.3's actually. Around here anyway. Never really thought of it as being a good thing cus i didnt know it was even a decent engine. everyone i knew with a 2.4 N/A had rod failures sometime during ownership.

A.J.
07-05-2010, 08:20 PM
Damn, nice score, :amen:

I can honestly say I've never seen a 2.4 van around here, :(

I've only seen a couple if you don't count the ones I saw working at a Dodge dealership in the mid '90's. That's why I called it my Holy Grail. I knew they existed so I was holding out for one. Otherwise I'd have to get the accessories from one car and the trans from another. I really wanted this trans so the final drive ratio would be more suited for a van, coming from a van.


i have seen them more often than 3.3's actually. Around here anyway. Never really thought of it as being a good thing cus i didnt know it was even a decent engine. everyone i knew with a 2.4 N/A had rod failures sometime during ownership.

This one has a bad rod bearing but I think it's because of an oil leak. The ones I've seen bad have broken the timing belt and then bad things happened.

A.J.

tsiconquest88
07-05-2010, 10:06 PM
yea most likely due to to lack oil leak maintanance. I agree there. And yea i wish most had 3.3's around here haha, i had needed a trans for a 3.3 liter 97 voyager i had and couldnt find a trans worth a ---- cus all the vans were 2.4's OR a 3.3 that already needed a tranny haha.

Vigo
07-06-2010, 12:09 AM
Buying a used 604 is asking for problems anyway!

tsiconquest88
07-06-2010, 12:34 AM
woulda been better than no 604 lol. I wanted to just get a trans in it and sell it running. but i got 600 for it was it was though eventually. about 3 months ago or so it sold.

Kreel
07-06-2010, 12:16 PM
Damn, nice score, :amen:

I can honestly say I've never seen a 2.4 van around here, :(

That's because 2.4L vans were never sold in Canada. I've seen one myself in the JY that had been imported into Canada :nod:

tsiconquest88
07-06-2010, 01:08 PM
there ya go, that explains it simon lol.

turbovanmanČ
07-06-2010, 01:40 PM
That's because 2.4L vans were never sold in Canada. I've seen one myself in the JY that had been imported into Canada :nod:

Bummer, :(

A.J.
07-07-2010, 08:34 PM
I started my exhaust manifold today. Actually I started it awhile ago but I tried to make it too elaborate and I don't have the tools to do it efficiently so I decided on just using T's and elbows. I bought the flange online for about $88 after shipping. The elbows and T's I got local. The elbows I got cheap for about $3 apiece and the T's for around $15 a piece. I also have the Chrysler Garrett/Mits flange that I bought awhile ago. I'm gonna be using the T-3 Garrett that's on my van now.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0343.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0342.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0340.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0339.jpg

I plan on trimming the #4 cylinder/T for the little up-swing but not until later.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0341.jpg

I want to weld it together but I'm not sure if I should gas weld it or leave it to my welder and his Mig. I posted my question in the lounge because I think that sees more traffic. If you want to weigh in you can read it here: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50781

A.J.

tsiconquest88
07-08-2010, 08:34 AM
Eh, the guy got back to me and said 150 for the intake mani. I can probably get him to 100 but im sure thats about it lol. The one good thing is, if its out of the same engine the other parts in his picture shows, its perfectly clean lol.

Aries_Turbo
07-10-2010, 12:23 AM
be sure to take a look inside those T's. they may look like the inside will flow smooth given the shape of the outside, but alot of times they arent smooth at all inside and need porting.

Brian

A.J.
07-25-2010, 08:47 PM
I just scored an intake for $100!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0367.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0366.jpg

I don't know who was more excited, the guy who got my $100 or me for scoring an intake for $100.

A.J.

turbokid
07-25-2010, 09:16 PM
LOL thats awesome. It's all coming together slowly.

Vigo
07-25-2010, 10:02 PM
Im not an expert on those motors.. is that an SRT manifold or an early DOHC neon manifold?

Mopar318
07-25-2010, 10:10 PM
Im not an expert on those motors.. is that an SRT manifold or an early DOHC neon manifold?

thats an SRT mani. DOHC manifold has a bend that goes up for no reason at all other than to make it harder to put a intake system on it..:confused2:

Vigo
07-25-2010, 10:20 PM
Oh yeh i forgot about that stupidity.. lol

Thanks for the info.

Mopar318
07-25-2010, 10:27 PM
It also has pretty long runners, and not alot of plenum volume. In other words SRT mani is the way to go.

A.J.
07-25-2010, 11:08 PM
Here are some pictures I down loaded of someone selling a complete SRT-4 swap on Craig's List.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/SRT4front.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/SRT4side.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/SRT4back.jpg

A.J.

Mopar318
07-28-2010, 04:35 PM
Can you take a pictures of the SRT intake beside the non turbo DOHC 2.4 intake. Im trying to figure out if there is a different between the port flange

Reeves
07-28-2010, 04:57 PM
I just scored an intake for $100!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0367.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0366.jpg

I don't know who was more excited, the guy who got my $100 or me for scoring an intake for $100.

A.J.

Did you get the throttle body and throttle body spacer/adapter thing with it?

A.J.
07-29-2010, 12:58 AM
Can you take a pictures of the SRT intake beside the non turbo DOHC 2.4 intake. Im trying to figure out if there is a different between the port flange

I don't have pictures of a non-turbo 2.4 manifold but can supply the SRT-4 ones.

Not even close.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0369.jpg

To bad, the bolt holes line up.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0371.jpg

Nope, won't work.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0373.jpg

I cut the flange off of the 2.2/2.5 one piece intake. I'll have to have it welded on at about this angle to clear the auto trans.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0375.jpg


Did you get the throttle body and throttle body spacer/adapter thing with it?

No I didn't because I have to modify the intake to clear the transmission so there was no need in trying to get the SRT-4 throttle body to work.

A.J.

turbokid
07-29-2010, 01:06 AM
Looks good

Mopar318
07-29-2010, 08:20 AM
I am talking about the head flange. I plan on using a srt4 throttle body too. I can use pretty much whatever I want since im using megasquirt.

Mopar318
07-30-2010, 09:32 PM
Never mind I compared some pictures and info and the SRT intake manifold will only fit on a SRT head and vise versa. Sucks, but I get an excuse to make a manifold now.

A.J.
07-31-2010, 08:35 PM
I finished porting my head today. I figured I'd better get it done so when my valve grinding stones and guide pilot show up I can get that done. Then I can get the head resurfaced, block decked, and assembly can begin. Once the engine is assembled then I rip into the donor van. I have to do it in steps because my shop is too small for all these parts.

Before:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/bothbef.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/bothbef2.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/bothbef3.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/bothbef4.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/bothbefore5.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/bothbef6.jpg

After:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/bothaf2.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/bothaf.jpg

Exhaust before:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/exbef.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/exbef2.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/exbef3.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/exbef4.jpg

Exhaust after:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/exaf.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/exaf2.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/exaf3.jpg

Intake before:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/inbef.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/inbef2.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/inbef3.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/inbef4.jpg

Intake after:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/inaf.jpg

I apologize for the lack of some pictures and the s**t quality of others. Sometimes I don't realize how bad they are until I get home and get them down loaded.

The after pics don't look that good but it looks better in person. Also I'm more interested in feel than looks. My main goal was to clean up the casting flash and just smooth things out. I'm sure if I spent more time on it I could make it look really good but I hate porting and I'm too cheap to pay somebody to do it for me.

A.J.

Reeves
08-01-2010, 12:01 PM
Looking good to me! :thumb:

A.J.
08-04-2010, 10:37 PM
I'm still waiting on my valve seat grinding pilot and stones. I got tired of sitting around playing Backgammon so I took the engine out of the donor van today. Once I got about half way through (it took two hours to remove) my business phone wouldn't stop ringing and two customers showed up with cars to fix. And another big job is coming in on Friday. But at least I got it out and I can start cleaning stuff and going through the transmission. I decided on a Peloquin LSD. I like the drop in aspect seeing that I'm not a transmission guy.

You might notice in the pictures, CV shaft cups sticking out of the trans. I had a bunch of CV shafts lying around. I got tired of transmissions leaking when I pulled them, mostly when I pulled them out the top and they are angled. I dismantled some shafts and saved the ends. The outers to hold the wheel bearings together when pushing a vehicle so they don't come apart. And the inners for transmission plugs.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0389.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0391.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0392.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0393.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0394.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0396.jpg

My new storage shed on wheels. I'm not keeping the valuable parts (to me) in the van. It's going to be outside and I don't need a tweaker going through it for scrap to sell.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0395.jpg

A.J.

Vigo
08-04-2010, 10:54 PM
Those axle ends come in really handy. I had a set of outers but i think i accidentally let them get crushed with one of the shells i recycled :( Need to get more..

turbovanmanČ
08-04-2010, 11:14 PM
Looking good, :thumb:

A.J.
08-05-2010, 11:39 PM
I got the accessory brackets off the donor motor today for fitment. A/C compressor bracket isn't going to work. Only two out of four bolt holes line up. One on the oil pump is missing and one on the oil pan. The power steering pump bracket in the back is going to work. The alternator bracket bolts up to the block fine but the alternator hits the SRT intake. I'm going to have to find a thinner alternator or try the Stratus 2.4 alternator bracket. I looked in ALLDATA and the bracket looks different so I'll give it a try.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0398.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0397.jpg

If I take the cover off the back it almost fits.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0400.jpg

A.J.

Mopar318
08-05-2010, 11:42 PM
I got the accessory brackets off the donor motor today for fitment. A/C compressor bracket isn't going to work. Only two out of four bolt holes line up. One on the oil pump is missing and one on the oil pan. The power steering pump bracket in the back is going to work. The alternator bracket bolts up to the block fine but the alternator hits the SRT intake. I'm going to have to find a thinner alternator or try the Stratus 2.4 alternator bracket. I looked in ALLDATA and the bracket looks different so I'll give it a try.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0398.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0397.jpg

If I take the cover off the back it almost fits.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0400.jpg

A.J.

Alternator is in the back on my neon, Its has a 2.4 but im not sure if the stratus is in the back or no.

rbryant
08-05-2010, 11:48 PM
I got the accessory brackets off the donor motor today for fitment. A/C compressor bracket isn't going to work. Only two out of four bolt holes line up.
A.J.

Don't over think the AC bracket. It works fine once you modify it slightly.

There is a 3rd boss on the SRT4 block right in the middle of it. Drill a hole through the bracket that aligns with the boss. Then use a button head bolt in that hole so that it clears the AC compressor housing.

3 M10 bolts will hold the AC compressor in place just fine. I will try to take a picture tonight.

-Rich

A.J.
08-05-2010, 11:58 PM
Alternator is in the back on my neon, Its has a 2.4 but im not sure if the stratus is in the back or no.

Neon's have the alternator in the back. Stratus' have it in the front.


Don't over think the AC bracket. It works fine once you modify it slightly.

There is a 3rd boss on the SRT4 block right in the middle of it. Drill a hole through the bracket that aligns with the boss. Then use a button head bolt in that hole so that it clears the AC compressor housing.

3 M10 bolts will hold the AC compressor in place just fine. I will try to take a picture tonight.

-Rich

Thanks but don't bother with the picture. I saw and thought about that. The hole you drill has to be shimmed because the bracket doesn't sit flat between the two factory holes and the new one. I might still use it. I want to see what's available in the junkyard when I get the alternator bracket.

A.J.

Mopar318
08-06-2010, 12:00 AM
Have you considered putting in the back like a neon? Would give you more room for intake, radiatior, intercooler...etc..

rbryant
08-06-2010, 12:36 AM
Have you considered putting in the back like a neon? Would give you more room for intake, radiatior, intercooler...etc..

That can be done but then he has an issue with the PS pump...

IIRC the SRT4 uses the passenger side motor mount as part of the PS tensioiner and mount.

Modern performance does make a custom mount for that though.

-Rich

A.J.
08-06-2010, 12:57 AM
Have you considered putting in the back like a neon? Would give you more room for intake, radiatior, intercooler...etc..

I want the alternator in the front. I've had to replace one on the road before and if it's in the back it would be too difficult. If the power steering pump goes out I can still make it home.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/SRT4back.jpg


IIRC the SRT4 uses the passenger side motor mount as part of the PS tensioiner and mount.


You are correct sir.......
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/SRT4side.jpg

A.J.

rbryant
08-06-2010, 02:24 PM
Neon's have the alternator in the back. Stratus' have it in the front.



I have heard of the rear alternator brackets cracking so if you go that route consider reinforcing the bracket.

I have the rear bracket if you need it.



Thanks but don't bother with the picture. I saw and thought about that. The hole you drill has to be shimmed because the bracket doesn't sit flat between the two factory holes and the new one. I might still use it. I want to see what's available in the junkyard when I get the alternator bracket.

A.J.

That is nothing that a 10 cent fender washer can't fix... Or the little bosses that stick up on the bracket could be ground flat.

The SRT4/PT AC bracket basically uses those same 3 bolts plus one additional one on the top. I had one but I threw it away during a mass garage cleaning. It was 10lbs of cast iron!

I would also check into the 2gen 2001-2006 stratus intake manifold and AC bracket. I think it is plastic but those flow better anyway because they are perfectly smooth inside.

I am not certian but I think this is one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400113362841&viewitem=&rvr_id=120966791205&mfe=sidebar

It might even have a variable runner length in it like the 2.0l magnum intake does...

-Rich

A.J.
08-06-2010, 08:30 PM
I have heard of the rear alternator brackets cracking so if you go that route consider reinforcing the bracket.

I have the rear bracket if you need it.


I have the SRT rear alternator bracket. It came with my engine. I just don't want to use it.



That is nothing that a 10 cent fender washer can't fix... Or the little bosses that stick up on the bracket could be ground flat.

The SRT4/PT AC bracket basically uses those same 3 bolts plus one additional one on the top. I had one but I threw it away during a mass garage cleaning. It was 10lbs of cast iron!


I don't like the way the majority of the bracket isn't attached to anything. If you say that the other bolt is above the ones that I can use than it shouldn't matter. Than again, maybe that's why it was made of such heavy material. I have an idea on what I'm going to do. I'll post what I end up with.



I would also check into the 2gen 2001-2006 stratus intake manifold and AC bracket. I think it is plastic but those flow better anyway because they are perfectly smooth inside.

I am not certian but I think this is one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400113362841&viewitem=&rvr_id=120966791205&mfe=sidebar

It might even have a variable runner length in it like the 2.0l magnum intake does...


Naw, I like aluminum and I like the look of the SRT Neon intake.

A.J.

rbryant
08-06-2010, 08:37 PM
I don't like the way the majority of the bracket isn't attached to anything. If you say that the other bolt is above the ones that I can use than it shouldn't matter. Than again, maybe that's why it was made of such heavy material. I have an idea on what I'm going to do. I'll post what I end up with. If you can get a good deal from Target Ad (https://www.weeklyads2.com/target/), never miss that.

A.J.

The SRT AC bracket is much the same as the stratus bracket attachment points...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SRT4-NEON-SRT-4-OEM-MAIN-ENGINE-BRACKET-HOLDER-A-C-MOUN-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ270576174081QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The stratus AC bracket is plenty rigid so it is fine. It isn't going to snap off or anything. If you are worried about it then add a gusset.

-Rich

rbryant
08-06-2010, 08:42 PM
The SRT AC bracket is much the same as the stratus bracket.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SRT4-NEON-SRT-4-OEM-MAIN-ENGINE-BRACKET-HOLDER-A-C-MOUN-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ270576174081QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The stratus AC bracket is plenty rigid so it is fine. It isn't going to snap off or anything. If you are worried about it then add a gusset.

-Rich

I just looked more closely at your pictures...

The Minivan AC bracket is different than the stratus one!

I told you to just get stuff from the junkyard and that getting the whole vehicle wouldn't be any easier. ;)

Best bet is to get a stratus AC bracket but then you are still have big problems using that intake with the alternator bracket.

-Rich

A.J.
08-06-2010, 08:45 PM
The SRT AC bracket is much the same as the stratus bracket.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SRT4-NEON-SRT-4-OEM-MAIN-ENGINE-BRACKET-HOLDER-A-C-MOUN-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ270576174081QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The stratus AC bracket is plenty rigid so it is fine. It isn't going to snap off or anything. If you are worried about it then add a gusset.

-Rich

$55! :eek: My TM colors are showing. Ya, it's a compressor/motor mount bracket. The gusset is what I was thinking. We'll see.

A.J.

rbryant
08-06-2010, 08:56 PM
$55! :eek: My TM colors are showing. Ya, it's a compressor/motor mount bracket. The gusset is what I was thinking. We'll see.

A.J.

You can get them for $20 the ebay link was just to show what it is.

The stratus intake and accessories are the best IMO. They are also the easiest to get.

You could even consider using the older head on the SRT4 block so that the intake bolts on directly. It would require a little welding on the head in order to build it up to match the block's front oil return but it can be done. Considering that your other head is bare anyway it wouldn't be a big deal to switch them. Lots of people say the older head is better anyway...

The SRT4 intake doesn't appear to be compatible with running a front alternator and AC.

-Rich

A.J.
08-07-2010, 08:22 PM
The SRT4 intake doesn't appear to be compatible with running a front alternator and AC.


That sounds like a challenge! I accept!



I told you to just get stuff from the junkyard and that getting the whole vehicle wouldn't be any easier. ;)


I took these pictures just to prove you semi-wrong.

Power steering in the rear. Bracket bolt up 100%.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0407.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0408.jpg

Front mount bracket. IN YOUR FACE! :) Bolts up 100%
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0414.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0416.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0417.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0418.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0419-1.jpg

A/C bracket is gonna take some work. I think if I make a support and weld it to the oil pan for the lower bolt hole It'll be okay.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0411.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0410.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0409-1.jpg

I drew a circle where I'd have to drill a hole for an extra bolt. Because I'll make a mount on the oil pan I might not bother.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0413.jpg

Back side of the a/c bracket and a circle drawn where I'd have to drill a hole.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0420-1.jpg

And if I didn't buy the whole vehicle I wouldn't have this awesome storage shed for all the extra parts. You have to admit, my shop looks better than your garage. :thumb:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0422.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0386.jpg

If anything happens to my 1st gen van and I decide to step up to a 2nd gen van, this is what it would kind of look like lifted for prairie dog hunting duty.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0423-1.jpg

A.J.

A.J.
08-08-2010, 07:02 PM
After staring at this for 2 hours, I figured out my alternator/bracket problem. I'm sticking with the '98 2.4 Caravan bracket. I shimmed the alternator away from the intake with 2 washers. By shimming it out I'm gonna angle the belt a little. The belt that runs the alt and a/c compressor is a 6 rib serpentine belt. I'll run a 5 rib belt instead and have it run on the inside of the alt pulley and the outside of the a/c comp.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0425-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0427-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0429.jpg

There was plenty of room with the rear cover off. I put it back on and gave it a little love with a ball peen hammer. Also you see how the intake sticks out a little past the runner towards the alt. Well I looked inside with my Snap-on bore scope that has a clear as hell picture screen. The part that sticks out is a little cavity in the intake. I think I'm going to cut it off and weld it back on flush when I do my throttle body flange. That will give me plenty of adjustability. After that I might even be able to un-shim the alt and run the six rib belt.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0428.jpg

Now I just have to notch the alternator bracket for the t-stat housing. That's no biggie.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0430-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0434.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0433.jpg

A.J.

rbryant
08-08-2010, 08:51 PM
Now I just have to notch the alternator bracket for the t-stat housing. That's no biggie.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0430-1.jpg

A.J.

Here is my notched alternator bracket (for my intake manifold).
24562


-Rich

rbryant
08-08-2010, 08:58 PM
That sounds like a challenge! I accept!

I took these pictures just to prove you semi-wrong.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0408.jpg



Nice bracket, what is the part number? The stratus bracket is half steel half aluminum so it is different.




Front mount bracket. IN YOUR FACE! :) Bolts up 100%
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0414.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0416.jpg



There are at least 3 caravan front motor mounts then.

The all steel 2.4 bracket from the pre-01 vans doesn't fit well. I think it actually would have had to be modified to even fit from what I remember and it had a slight clearance issue with the crank sensor.

The stratus mount looks much like yours with the 4 M8 bolts but hits the crank sensor aswell.

I used a newer bracket:
246594861574AC list: $51




A/C bracket is gonna take some work. I think if I make a support and weld it to the oil pan for the lower bolt hole It'll be okay.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0411.jpg

I drew a circle where I'd have to drill a hole for an extra bolt. Because I'll make a mount on the oil pan I might not bother.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0413.jpg

Back side of the a/c bracket and a circle drawn where I'd have to drill a hole.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0420-1.jpg




the stratus bracket takes less work and doesn't hang down as far:
24564



And if I didn't buy the whole vehicle I wouldn't have this awesome storage shed for all the extra parts. You have to admit, my shop looks better than your garage. :thumb:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0422.jpg



I never claimed to be neat, I am far too scatterbrained.





http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0386.jpg

If anything happens to my 1st gen van and I decide to step up to a 2nd gen van, this is what it would kind of look like lifted for prairie dog hunting duty.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0423-1.jpg

A.J.

No accounting for taste... Lowering trucks and lifting cars are both considered stupid in my book. I am not really sure where a Caravan falls into this. ;)

A.J.
08-09-2010, 09:04 PM
Nice bracket, what is the part number? The stratus bracket is half steel half aluminum so it is different.


The number on the p/s bracket is 4612520. I'll take a picture of it. There were some other letters and numbers. I forgot to bring my camera to work today.




There are at least 3 caravan front motor mounts then.

The all steel 2.4 bracket from the pre-01 vans doesn't fit well. I think it actually would have had to be modified to even fit from what I remember and it had a slight clearance issue with the crank sensor.

The stratus mount looks much like yours with the 4 M8 bolts but hits the crank sensor aswell.


What happened to the days when Chrysler made one thing and made it work on all their vehicles? Maybe that's why they're going under. All this extra engineering and parts warehousing.



No accounting for taste... Lowering trucks and lifting cars are both considered stupid in my book. I am not really sure where a Caravan falls into this.

I agree. But I actually had a purpose. Otherwise I'd like a lowered van.

A.J.

rbryant
08-09-2010, 09:25 PM
What happened to the days when Chrysler made one thing and made it work on all their vehicles? Maybe that's why they're going under. All this extra engineering and parts warehousing.



No kidding... After being so used to everything being the same I guess I made too many assumptions... I guess my picture of the newer style all steel engine mount failed to attach or something. I will have to add it back in.

I guess we need to start making a KC article on all of the possible 2.4 accessory brackets that are out there with part number... Perhaps I will have time someday.




I agree. But I actually had a purpose. Otherwise I'd like a lowered van.

A.J.

Hehe. Like I said I am not sure what category it falls into... ;)

-Rich

Vigo
08-09-2010, 10:34 PM
I guess we need to start making a KC article on all of the possible 2.4 accessory brackets that are out there with part number...



:clap::eyebrows::hail::thumb:

A.J.
08-10-2010, 09:40 PM
I guess we need to start making a KC article on all of the possible 2.4 accessory brackets that are out there with part number... Perhaps I will have time someday.


I like that idea. I took too many pictures to post here. Should I just start a K.C. article for brackets and part numbers for the '98 Caravan n/a 2.4?

A.J.

A.J.
10-17-2010, 12:26 PM
I removed the balance shaft assembly so I had to build and oil pan baffle. When I brazed the legs onto it, the heat warped the hell out of the sheet metal. Nobody is going to see it when it's together so I'm not that concerned.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0697.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0696.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0692.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0693.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0691.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0700.jpg

Balance shaft oil feed oil plugged.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0703.jpg

I also opened up the oil pick-up.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0699-2.jpg

I painted the valve cover. It came out pretty nice considering what it looked like when I first got it.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0710.jpg

I got the pistons, valves, combustion chambers, and exhaust passages ceramic coated by Jet-Hot. I also got the anti-friction coating done on the sides of the pistons. They have a facility here in the valley.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0671-2.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0705.jpg

I got most of the engine together. I still need to do some work on the intake so I can use my fuel rail from the 2.2/2.5 one piece intake.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0731-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0729.jpg

I had to modify the alternator bracket a little, since it wasn't meant to work with this thermostat housing.

I had to cut a notch for the heater hose.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0726-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0725-1.jpg

I had to grind a little off for clearance of the thermostat housing.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0724-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0722-1.jpg

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
10-17-2010, 03:52 PM
Nice work, :nod:

Austrian Dodge
10-18-2010, 04:29 AM
i like your oil pan baffle ;)

Mopar318
10-18-2010, 07:59 AM
I have a stratus/neon A/C bracket you can have if you need.

A.J.
10-18-2010, 10:48 AM
I have a stratus/neon A/C bracket you can have if you need.

Could you take a picture of it and measure the distance between the mounting holes for the compressor?

I have the a/c bracket off of the '98 2.4 n/a Caravan. Only two bolt holes line up. I'm going to drill out a third and possibly weld a boss onto the oil pan for a fourth.

A.J.

Mopar318
10-18-2010, 12:51 PM
Could you take a picture of it and measure the distance between the mounting holes for the compressor?

I have the a/c bracket off of the '98 2.4 n/a Caravan. Only two bolt holes line up. I'm going to drill out a third and possibly weld a boss onto the oil pan for a fourth.

A.J.

How about I compare them to the SRT4 A/C bracket. They look the same. But Ill get the compressor off and take a look.

rbryant
10-18-2010, 01:22 PM
I had to modify the alternator bracket a little, since it wasn't meant to work with this thermostat housing.

I had to cut a notch for the heater hose.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0726-1.jpg

I had to grind a little off for clearance of the thermostat housing.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0724-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0722-1.jpg

A.J.

This confirms that the Caravan bracket is taller and closer to the water outlet compared to the stratus alternator bracket.

On the Stratus bracket I had to put in a notch in order to get the water line like your above picture to clear the bracket but that was the only part that was an issue... There was no need to grind on the top of the bracket or the bottom of the housing. The only reason that I needed to modify mine was because I was using the angled water outlet on the driver side of the waterbox like the SRT4.

The '01+ Stratus uses the same alternator bracket as the earlier Stratus. The SRT4/PT waterbox is the same casting as the Stratus one but they simply machine the opposite water outlet so that on the Stratus is points straight forward and doesn't interfere with the alt bracket. The other boss is shown non machined in AJ's middle picture above. Depending on what is desired the driver side hole could be plugged and the front hole can be drilled and tapped for 3/8 NPT. What is best really depends on the intake manifold used. In AJs case with the SRT4 manifold the notching of the bracket to use the driver side outlet will probably work best.

When I was going to use the SRT4 waterbox I also drilled out the bleed hole and tapped it for 1/8" NPT. That gives a nice place to run the temperature sender that operates the dash gauge and you can still unscrew it to bleed the system. :) Of course AJ is using a 2.4 transmission so he won't have starter clearance issues with the sensor bungs on the block so he can just use those.

Here is my modified bracket so that the SRT4 outlet would clear with the stratus alternator bracket:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/P1010052.JPG

I believe that the caravan alternator might actually have a wider connection spacing on the alternator than the stratus which requires the bracket to be taller. They are both 6 rib pulleys so the stratus bracket and alternator would work without all of that grinding.

Of course I ended up plugging the normal water outlet and moving it to the driver side with a custom headgasket in my setup but the above mod would have worked if I ran the waterneck.

The next issue I had was that my intake runners are so short in order to fit an intake into the charger engine bay that the plenum actually hit the alternator bracket so I had to clearance it for that...

Looks like you are making great progress... You will probably be done before me. :)

-Rich

eduardo_rt
10-18-2010, 01:37 PM
Nice Project Bro.

A.J.
10-18-2010, 08:26 PM
How about I compare them to the SRT4 A/C bracket. They look the same. But Ill get the compressor off and take a look.

The SRT a/c bracket is heavy steel. I want to keep the light aluminum. If you can measure the distance between the mounting holes for the compressor in the SRT bracket, I might use it for simplicity.


This confirms that the Caravan bracket is taller and closer to the water outlet compared to the stratus alternator bracket.


Don't forget I wanted to use one vehicle for all my accessories for when I need parts I only have to remember one vehicle. I don't mind a little grinding and modification to accomplish that. But it's good to know for other people.



Looks like you are making great progress... You will probably be done before me. :)


Once I get my Tig you can consider this project done. I'm aiming for late December for completion.


I modified a 2.2/2.5 knock sensor to work on the 2.4. The threads are larger for the 2.2/2.5 and are 8mm X 1.25 for the 2.4. All I did was tap the knock sensor threads down to 8mm and it worked. I wanted to keep the 2.2/2.5 knock sensor because I'm using '89 SMEC electronics.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0738-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0736-1.jpg

A.J.

Aries_Turbo
10-18-2010, 08:52 PM
AJ, youll have to redefine the threshold curve so that the knock sensor detects actual knock. youll need to datalog the knock volts VS rpm with the engine under some load and then set the curve a few percent higher than that.

there is a chance that the output wont be even from cyl to cyl but that will have to be determined later.

Brian

A.J.
10-18-2010, 09:37 PM
AJ, youll have to redefine the threshold curve so that the knock sensor detects actual knock. youll need to datalog the knock volts VS rpm with the engine under some load and then set the curve a few percent higher than that.

there is a chance that the output wont be even from cyl to cyl but that will have to be determined later.

Brian

I had read through that thread with the guy that put the SRT-4 engine in his red CSX awhile ago. I'm gonna have to go through it again after I get mine running. I just remembered the debate about which sensor to run and I figured I'd be that much closer if I could use the one that the computer's use to seeing. I'm not just going to start beating on this engine out of the box. I'm putting too much work into it to blow it up because the cal wasn't right.

A.J.

Mopar318
10-19-2010, 07:17 AM
After further inspection, the A/C bracket I have is the same as what you have. Sorry!

A.J.
10-19-2010, 08:34 PM
I got the spark plug wires done today. I'm using Rich Bryant's (screen name rbryant) distributor adaptor.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0747.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0743.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0744.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0745.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0746.jpg

I figured I'd mount the coil where Chrysler intended it for this engine, I built the bracket out of angle iron from ACE.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0741-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0742.jpg

I measured my A/C bracket today for anybody who has one off of an SRT-4 so we can determine if the '98 Caravan is the same. I can't imagine Chrysler using multiple a/c compressors if they could get away with using one, but you never know.

Top is about 5".
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0748.jpg

Bottom is about 4 1/2".
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0749.jpg

A.J.

rbryant
10-19-2010, 09:06 PM
I measured my A/C bracket today for anybody who has one off of an SRT-4 so we can determine if the '98 Caravan is the same. I can't imagine Chrysler using multiple a/c compressors if they could get away with using one, but you never know.


They used lots of different compressors...

The PT and SRT4 use a late 2nd gen neon compressor from '03+ or so.

The stratus uses a different compressor. I think you said you looked this up and thought they were the same but I checked and they are indeed different than the caravan.

The vans actually use the same compressor as the 95-99 Neon but had a 6rib belt where the 1G Neon was a v belt.....

I think the Caravan actually shares the compressor and pulley with the Concorde/300M of all things....

-Rich

135sohc
10-20-2010, 12:43 AM
Yeah LH cars use a V belt for the ac drive. The compressor is actually the same denso 10 series as the 91-95 4 cylinder k engine but everything else is different.

A.J.
10-20-2010, 12:50 AM
Clutches and pulleys are easily swapped. Even most of the newer compressors have a plate on top where the hoses attach that can be swapped out to be used with different vehicles.

A.J.

BIG PSI
10-20-2010, 02:43 AM
A J;

When are you hoping to have the Mini up and running with the SRT motor ?

Mopar318
10-20-2010, 08:39 AM
I had time this morning and snapped some pictures with measurments for you off the neon A/C bracket and compressor and the SRT4 bracket and compressor. They are alot different. When got my neon it had already had a 2.4 swapped in, but Im pretty sure this bracket is from the stratus, as one of the holes was not used for the compressor...this hole must have went into the oil pan or something on the stratus.

SRT4 Bracket

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0204.jpg

About 4.5" on top

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0199.jpg

about 4" on bottom.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0201.jpg

Stratus bracket?

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0202.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0203.jpg

SRT4 compressor left, neon on the right

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0206.jpg

The very left hole on the stratus bracket would be going into thin air. The srt4 bracket has its 4th bolt on the middle of the block. Personally, I would go ahead and use the SRT4 bracket and compressor, and just cut off the torque mount if you wont be using it. Its not that heavy, and it seems as iff the SRT4 uses really heavy duty stuff, but it last a long time.

A.J.
10-20-2010, 10:48 AM
When are you hoping to have the Mini up and running with the SRT motor ?

Late December. November and December (and this year October) are my slow months so I'll be able to get the most done then.


I had time this morning and snapped some pictures with measurments for you off the neon A/C bracket and compressor and the SRT4 bracket and compressor. They are alot different. When got my neon it had already had a 2.4 swapped in, but Im pretty sure this bracket is from the stratus, as one of the holes was not used for the compressor...this hole must have went into the oil pan or something on the stratus.

SRT4 Bracket

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0204.jpg

About 4.5" on top

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0199.jpg

about 4" on bottom.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0201.jpg

Stratus bracket?

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0202.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0203.jpg

SRT4 compressor left, neon on the right

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0206.jpg

The very left hole on the stratus bracket would be going into thin air. The srt4 bracket has its 4th bolt on the middle of the block. Personally, I would go ahead and use the SRT4 bracket and compressor, and just cut off the torque mount if you wont be using it. Its not that heavy, and it seems as iff the SRT4 uses really heavy duty stuff, but it last a long time.

Thanks for taking the time to post your findings. I'm gonna stick with my '98 Caravan compressor to keep everything '98 Caravan. I'd have to cut quite a bit off of the SRT a/c bracket to make it work. The top right mounting hole and the tensioner.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0204.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0755-1.jpg

A.J.

rbryant
10-20-2010, 12:54 PM
Stratus bracket?

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0202.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/acr/IMG_0203.jpg


This bracket is the 1G neon 2.0l bracket. People are able to use these with the 2.4 swap with a little work (it looks like it holes were ovaled out).

-Rich

Mopar318
10-20-2010, 05:27 PM
This bracket is the 1G neon 2.0l bracket. People are able to use these with the 2.4 swap with a little work (it looks like it holes were ovaled out).

-Rich

Thanks, I wondered why the holes where ovaled like that.

Got a question for you off topic. If I send you a autocad file for a simple bracket can you cut it? Nobody here seems to want to because they are production facilities, and I dont have access to the schools equipment yet.

rbryant
10-20-2010, 05:41 PM
Thanks, I wondered why the holes where ovaled like that.

Got a question for you off topic. If I send you a autocad file for a simple bracket can you cut it? Nobody here seems to want to because they are production facilities, and I dont have access to the schools equipment yet.

NP.

I will PM you about the bracket.

-Rich

A.J.
10-20-2010, 11:25 PM
I mounted my fuel rail today. I couldn't use the SRT-4 fuel rail because it's a returnless system. I probably could have used a remote fuel pressure regulator but don't want to spend money on anything right now that I don't have to. I can always upgrade later if need be. I used a spare fuel rail I had off of a 2.2/2.5 one piece intake.

The fuel injectors lined up but the mounts don't.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0752-1.jpg

Piece o' aluminum will fix that.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0753.jpg

I don't think one hole will secure the block enough.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0758.jpg

So I drilled another hole and taped it.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0759.jpg

Counter sunk allen head bolts.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0764.jpg

Secure.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0769-1.jpg

And done.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0767.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0768.jpg

I had to bend the pressure line around the thermostat housing.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0772-1.jpg

I may have a problem with the return line. I may cut the thermostat housing and weld it back on at a different angle.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0774-1.jpg

I have some parts from a DOHC on a 2.5 block project I was going to do. I got the parts off of a '99 Mitsubishi Eclipse. This bracket is from that. I had to modify it a little to make it work.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0777-1.jpg

I also mounted my vacuum block today.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0778-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0780-1.jpg

A.J.

black86glhs
10-21-2010, 12:38 AM
Looking really good there A.J. Can you drill out the FP regulator holes and twist it slightly where it sits? Just enough to clear the housing? Or is the rad hose going to be the bigger issue?

A.J.
10-21-2010, 01:01 AM
Looking really good there A.J. Can you drill out the FP regulator holes and twist it slightly where it sits? Just enough to clear the housing? Or is the rad hose going to be the bigger issue?

Do you mean oval out the mounting holes and clock it at a different angle? That's a good idea and might work. I'll look into it and take photos of what I do.

A.J.

black86glhs
10-21-2010, 01:39 AM
Do you mean oval out the mounting holes and clock it at a different angle? That's a good idea and might work. I'll look into it and take photos of what I do.

A.J.Yeah, thats it.

2.216VTurbo
10-21-2010, 02:38 AM
It looks great on the stand AJ:clap: Clearly, you are into the looks of this set up and it shows. Back in the day when I was first doing simple/free/stupid mods to my GLHS, I wasn't running the plastic distrib 'dust cover' and I hated the way the distrib body had that akward strait front ege with the screw holes for the cover. So I pulled it and spent a couple hours with a Dremel grinding the front edge to have the same radious as the back edge. IMO, it cleaned up the look some. Prolly saved 3 ounces too:D Just sayin...

1BADVAN
10-21-2010, 11:52 AM
if it comes down to it you could fab a spacer for the T-stat neck that raises the hose spout a minimal amount and rotates it however you want. more work but just an idea i wanted to throw out

rbryant
10-21-2010, 12:48 PM
if it comes down to it you could fab a spacer for the T-stat neck that raises the hose spout a minimal amount and rotates it however you want. more work but just an idea i wanted to throw out

I actually have a fully custom fabbed waterbox that uses a smallblock chevy 90 degree swivel waterneck... I made it (ok I had it made) before I moved my waterbox to the driver side of my SRT4 head.

Worst case this would solve AJ's problem. But then he would need to use a chevy t-stat so he probably won't want to do that. :)

I think the PT waterneck is also taller so it would clear but it is plastic so that might not be what he wants.

-Rich

A.J.
10-21-2010, 08:01 PM
It looks great on the stand AJ:clap: Clearly, you are into the looks of this set up and it shows. Back in the day when I was first doing simple/free/stupid mods to my GLHS, I wasn't running the plastic distrib 'dust cover' and I hated the way the distrib body had that akward strait front ege with the screw holes for the cover. So I pulled it and spent a couple hours with a Dremel grinding the front edge to have the same radious as the back edge. IMO, it cleaned up the look some. Prolly saved 3 ounces too:D Just sayin...

I'm not a fan of the way the distributor looks either. I'm hoping if I put enough flare into everything else, maybe people won't focus on that.


if it comes down to it you could fab a spacer for the T-stat neck that raises the hose spout a minimal amount and rotates it however you want. more work but just an idea i wanted to throw out

I though about that too. I could counter sink the screws like I did on my fuel rail adaptor blocks. That might be the way to go. I was painting my intake today so I couldn't try black86glhs idea.

A.J.

A.J.
10-22-2010, 08:23 PM
I clocked the fuel pressure regulator today. I might have enough clearance now.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0774-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0802-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0801-1.jpg

I ground down the high points on the back of my A/C bracket because I couldn't find the right size washer to shim the hole I drilled. I still need to weld a boss onto the oil pan for the lower bolt hole.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0809-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0810-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0811-1.jpg

I made the fuel injector/knock sensor wiring harness.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0803-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0804-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0806-1.jpg

I also sandblasted the intake and painted it.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0808.jpg

I finally got my dip stick & tube so I could finnish my baffle. I needed the parts so I knew where to drill the hole.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0795-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0796-1.jpg

I also went to the junk yard to get a larger throttle body than what's on my van now. I got one off of a 3.3 liter Caravan. It bolts up the same, I can use my IAC & TPS, and I can bolt up the bracket so I can use my '88 van's throttle, cruise control, and transmission kick down cables. The 3.3 T.B. is about 1/4" larger. I took pictures on the SRT-4 throttle body spacer so you can see the difference.

2.2/2.5 turbo throttle body
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0797-1.jpg

3.3/3.8 Caravan throttle body
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0799-1.jpg

A.J.

A.J.
10-27-2010, 10:59 PM
I re-did the heater tubes. I'm not using the water-cooled oil cooler and I don't like the location of the turbo coolant return location so I went with the 2.4 Stratus heater tubes. I also had to get the back of the water pump pipe also. I had to heat and bend the tubes to my liking.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0847.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0848.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0856.jpg

I cut the engine-pull-hook off of the SRT-4 heater tubes and used just that. I also had to bend the Stratus mounting flange and drill a new hole.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0857.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0858.jpg

In order to use the 2.4 N/A Caravan accessories with the SRT-4 intake I had to shim the alternator out. By doing that the belt doesn't line up. The 2.4 N/A Caravan uses a six rib belt. I got a 5 rib belt and ran it on the inside of the alternator pulley and on the outside of the crank and a/c pulleys.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0861-1.jpg

I mounted the unfinished automatic transmission to the engine today so I could determine if the throttle body hits from the rumors I've heard. It does so I need to figure something out.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0864-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0866-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0867.jpg

What to do, what to do..........

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0868.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0800-1.jpg

A.J.

RoadWarrior222
10-28-2010, 03:42 PM
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF0800-1.jpg
A.J.

I'd port that a bit if I were you, doesn't look like it will flow too well ;)

Mopar318
10-28-2010, 04:43 PM
Have you thought about cutting the intake where the throttle body flange starts, cutting off material on one side, then welding it back together? That would be really simple, and with an adapter block your just adding more to it.

A.J.
10-28-2010, 08:45 PM
I'd port that a bit if I were you, doesn't look like it will flow too well ;)

:lol:


Have you thought about cutting the intake where the throttle body flange starts, cutting off material on one side, then welding it back together? That would be really simple, and with an adapter block your just adding more to it.

I thought about that. I might have to if this doesn't work. I have to build a plate to put between the SRT-4 throttle body spacer and my 3.3 throttle body anyways. Even though they have the same bolt pattern, they don't mate up the same and would have a huge air leak. So this could kill two birds with one stone.

A.J.

A.J.
09-13-2012, 08:57 PM
Back on track. It's hard to believe it's been almost two years since I shelved this project because without my Ostrich working, I had no way to tune the 2.4 engine. Now that it's working I can move forward.

I got the tranny together. Complete with a Peloquin LSD, line pressure adjuster hole drilled and plugged, Alto front 6 clutch pack (not longer available), Alto rear 4 clutch pack (no longer available), ditched the wavy snap-rings and tighten up the clearances - front is .035" and the rear is .040", accumulator blocked, valve body bleed for higher line pressure and other valve body mods, pinion area in the case reenforced, five pinion front planetary gears. About as bullet proof as I can make it. And it's going to have a lock-up toque converter for better mileage.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0221.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0234.jpg

I had to build a bracket to move the kick-down/throttle valve cable. It's two inches closer to the throttle valve arm than the older A413 2.2/2.5 transmission.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0229.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0232.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0233.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0230.jpg

I got the trans bolted to the engine so I can start working on the location of my throttle body. I cut the flange off an old T-I intake so I can use my throttle body and my electronics. Also because it would have hit the trans because of the angle of the intake.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0244.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0246.jpg

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-13-2012, 09:56 PM
Very cool, waiting to see how this works and what kind of MPG you get. What do you get now?

A.J.
09-13-2012, 10:01 PM
16 MPG combo city/hwy in the summer with the AC on and 18 mpg combo city/hwy when the AC is off.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-14-2012, 01:41 AM
Not bad, I average 14/15 mpg combined, A/C on or off.

A.J.
09-14-2012, 11:32 PM
My digital camera took a crap so all I have to take pictures is my iphone 3. So until I get a new one they're not going to be as good. Also Photo bucket won't let me upload photos so I had to switch to Image Shack.

Instead of using the T-I one-piece intake flange, I decided to build a new one. I needed a port for the PCV since I cut off the original from the intake. By making a thick enough flange, I could drill and tap a couple of ports in the top. The intake is off getting welded, I should get it back next week.

http://imageshack.us/a/img211/9246/img0249mx.jpg
By azturbo (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/azturbo) at 2012-09-14

http://imageshack.us/a/img13/559/img0250sgi.jpg
By azturbo (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/azturbo) at 2012-09-14

http://imageshack.us/a/img152/6491/img0248ip.jpg
By azturbo (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/azturbo) at 2012-09-14

http://imageshack.us/a/img29/7888/img0247ew.jpg
By azturbo (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/azturbo) at 2012-09-14

Next is to make this work. I really want to keep my equal length half shafts. I have a few ideas.

http://imageshack.us/a/img694/1346/img0252nc.jpg
By azturbo (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/azturbo) at 2012-09-14

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-15-2012, 02:36 AM
Why can't you keep your half shafts? The van is the same and the trans end is the same as your original axles, you just need to make a bracket for the bearing, which for you, is cake, :thumb:

A.J.
09-15-2012, 10:51 AM
Why can't you keep your half shafts? The van is the same and the trans end is the same as your original axles, you just need to make a bracket for the bearing, which for you, is cake, :thumb:

Thanks for the compliment. I plan on keeping them. The easy way out is to use the long shaft. Also because my van is lifted, if I use the long shaft, when it's on the lift and the suspension is hanging, the axle shaft will hit the K-member.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-15-2012, 02:24 PM
Gotcha, :nod:

A.J.
09-15-2012, 03:40 PM
Cindy from FWD sells a replacement bearing/bracket for the intermediate shaft. I had to get the measurements of the bearing to see if it would suit my needs. Now that I know it will work I know what I'm going to do.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-17-2012, 01:00 PM
Cindy from FWD sells a replacement bearing/bracket for the intermediate shaft. I had to get the measurements of the bearing to see if it would suit my needs. Now that I know it will work I know what I'm going to do.

A.J.

I have one of those on my shelf, haven't needed to use it yet, killer setup for sure, :nod:

A.J.
09-17-2012, 08:31 PM
The factory 2.2/2.5 bearing support has a recess in it (you can see it in my picture) where Cindy's is a hump which will be better for my fabricating needs. I'll take plenty of pictures.

A.J.

A.J.
09-20-2012, 08:38 PM
I got my throttle body flange and some of my exhaust manifold welded. I need to find a new welder. I'm tired of going back three times because he refuses to check his work. A spray bottle with soapy water and a blow gun it's too expensive or hard to work.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0264_zpsb36f3e0c.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0265_zpsfcd700e1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0268_zps8502d1f4.jpg

I had one person weld the three pieces on the right and someone else weld the last elbow on the left. That's why the welds look different.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0270_zps1e4dd9d1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0272_zpsc4fdf245.jpg

I'm going to the track this weekend with my van. After that I'm going to start my swap.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-20-2012, 08:59 PM
Too bad you weren't closer, :(

Good luck, I am going out tomorrow, gotta run 12's again.

Can't remember what turbo you have and what your going to use?

A.J.
09-20-2012, 09:12 PM
I have a S60 on my van with a modified TU cast header with a 2 piece intake. That S60 turbo is going on the 2.4 when I do the swap.

A.J.

A.J.
09-22-2012, 07:02 PM
I got the intermediate shaft installed today with a bearing assembly like the one Cindy sells at FWD Performance. I made a template so I only had to drill the aluminum bearing retainer once.

I had to cut a boss off the engine. It was in the way. I didn't want to notch the bearing retainer and weaken it.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0282_zps556edd14.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0283_zps1b70f019.jpg

My template.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0284_zpse7ff9925.jpg

I made a couple of studs to check alignment.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0285_zps8622f7c3.jpg

Checked for fitment and it's flush. Now I can drill.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0286_zps849446ae.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0287_zpsc6732476.jpg

And done.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0288_zpsefc0e3f3.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0290_zps1342be8c.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0289_zpscde46bcd.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0291_zps0c84fb60.jpg

A.J.

black86glhs
09-22-2012, 11:58 PM
Awesome work. I like it and it looks plenty solid. Glad you could put it to use.:thumb:

turbovanmanČ
09-23-2012, 12:50 AM
Very cool, nice job, :thumb:

What bracket is that from?

A.J.
09-23-2012, 11:33 AM
Awesome work. I like it and it looks plenty solid. Glad you could put it to use.:thumb:

And you saved me a couple of bucks. Thanks.


Very cool, nice job, :thumb:

What bracket is that from?

Which bracket?

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-23-2012, 02:24 PM
Which bracket?

A.J.


Durr, the one you just made. Were talking about driveshafts, ;)

A.J.
09-23-2012, 02:51 PM
Durr, the one you just made. Were talking about driveshafts, ;)

I'm still not sure which one you're talking about. There is the SRT-4 bracket that mounts to the engine block, I don't think you're talking about that one. There's the big hunk of aluminum that holds the bearing that I had to drill, the one Cindy sells http://www.fwdperformance.com/Store/Product.asp?IDCatalog=61&ProductID=1270 but I bought from black86glhs instead. And there is the one I made as a template out of scrap metal I had lying around the shop. So do you mean the bearing retainer or my template?

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-23-2012, 03:06 PM
A.J., I think you've been sniffing too much solvent, the last posts have been about making your equal length driveshaft fit, you've modified a bracket from Bryan to make fit. Ring a bell yet?

A.J.
09-23-2012, 03:32 PM
Maybe it's because I only got 3 hours sleep last night.


A.J., I think you've been sniffing too much solvent, the last posts have been about making your equal length driveshaft fit, you've modified a bracket from Bryan to make fit. Ring a bell yet?

Right, but you asked:



What bracket is that from?

So if it's this one, it came with the engine:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0285_zps8622f7c3.jpg

If it's this one, I bought it from black86glhs but you can get it from Cindy minus the two inner holes that I drilled:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0287_zpsc6732476.jpg

If it's the one bolted to the one pictured above I made it:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0284_zpse7ff9925.jpg

If it's still not clear, post a picture of the one your talking about and CIRCLE IT.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-24-2012, 12:00 AM
So if it's this one, it came with the engine:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0285_zps8622f7c3.jpg


A.J.

I know where you got the aftermarket shaft bracket but that is what I was referring too-^^^^^^ :clap:

A.J.
09-24-2012, 01:06 AM
I know where you got the aftermarket shaft bracket but that is what I was referring too-^^^^^^ :clap:

Oooooooh. That's the stock SRT-4 intermediate shaft bearing support. That came with my engine.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-24-2012, 02:16 AM
Oooooooh. That's the stock SRT-4 intermediate shaft bearing support. That came with my engine.

A.J.

LOL, thank you, :p

Reeves
09-25-2012, 02:09 PM
It looks great on the stand AJ:clap: Clearly, you are into the looks of this set up and it shows. Back in the day when I was first doing simple/free/stupid mods to my GLHS, I wasn't running the plastic distrib 'dust cover' and I hated the way the distrib body had that akward strait front ege with the screw holes for the cover. So I pulled it and spent a couple hours with a Dremel grinding the front edge to have the same radious as the back edge. IMO, it cleaned up the look some. Prolly saved 3 ounces too:D Just sayin...

I have the same racer mod on my OMNI. LOL.

A.J.
09-26-2012, 12:06 AM
I got my Neon SRT-4 fuel rail on today. I'm going to start out with Flex Fuel injectors. The fuel rail doesn't sit flat. It's been a long time since I've been around a factory SRT Neon so I don't know what it's suppose to look like. Any body got any pictures or are the factory injectors shorter and that's why it doesn't sit flat? If there is a factory spacer than that's what I'll need to get. Otherwise I'll just build one like I did for the T-I fuel rail I was going to use.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0294.jpg

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-26-2012, 12:57 AM
I think the SRT injectors are shorter.

black86glhs
09-26-2012, 01:22 AM
I recall them being shorter also. Looking good!!

rich tideswell
09-26-2012, 12:20 PM
Factory and stage kit SRT-4 injectors are shorter, there is not a factory spacer available, but AGP Turbo manufactures an aftermarket spacer for $17.50/ set
http://www.agpturbo.com/srt-4-agp-fuel-rail-spacers/

You also have to buy longer "pawns" to use the factory srt-4 fuel rail cover when using aftermarket injectors $17.50/ set
http://www.agpturbo.com/srt-4-agp-billet-pawn-injector-cover-mount/

glhs727
09-26-2012, 01:06 PM
you don't need to buy the agp spacer and the agp spacer is actually to tall. Just use one or two 2.2 headbolt washers under the rail.
But I am not sure why you are using the flex fuel injectors... those are too small....

turbovanmanČ
09-26-2012, 04:44 PM
you don't need to buy the agp spacer and the agp spacer is actually to tall. Just use one or two 2.2 headbolt washers under the rail.
But I am not sure why you are using the flex fuel injectors... those are too small....

+20's should be ok for a his mild build wouldn't you think?

shackwrrr
09-26-2012, 04:50 PM
+20's should be ok for a his mild build wouldn't you think?

38lb per hour injectors are only good for about 250 hp

turbovanmanČ
09-26-2012, 05:17 PM
38lb per hour injectors are only good for about 250 hp

I still think he'll be fine at 20 psi, considering some of us have pushed +40's where they shouldn't go, :eyebrows:

RoadWarrior222
09-26-2012, 06:36 PM
Eww TMI, hope you used KY, you can get hemorrhoids like that.

Aries_Turbo
09-26-2012, 10:50 PM
dont listen to simon....

+20's on a no flow 2.2 8v with a stock intercooler and exhaust might be fine at 20psi but not on a 2.4L srt motor... especially at the torque peak.

Brian

turbovanmanČ
09-27-2012, 01:29 AM
dont listen to simon....

+20's on a no flow 2.2 8v with a stock intercooler and exhaust might be fine at 20psi but not on a 2.4L srt motor... especially at the torque peak.

Brian

Simon says, :p

Really, what's the worst that can happen, :eyebrows:

RoadWarrior222
09-27-2012, 06:25 AM
Well since you ask, the WORST that could happen would be the energy deficit creates a quantum tunnel to the zero point quantum foam, allowing a wormhole to form to the dungeon dimensions, either sucking the denizens through to here, or the whole planet through to it, but knock would be pretty bad too.

A.J.
09-27-2012, 10:41 AM
Thanks for the info about the spacers. I came up with something last night for $6. If it works I'll post pictures later.

I'm starting out with +20/flex fuel injectors because that's what I have. When tuning this thing I'm going to be taking it slow and if there is any indication I need larger injectors I won't hesitate to get them. I'm going to shoot for 350 hp and/or 13 seconds in the 1/4 mile.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-27-2012, 12:16 PM
13 secs shouldn't be a problem, :nod:

Aries_Turbo
09-27-2012, 10:07 PM
get at least +40's. dont even bother installing the flex fuel injectors.

+40's were the spec for your turbo installed on a less flowy engine.

you are installing a turbo that was paired with the 52lb injectors on an engine that flows alot more, especially at the torque peak.

dont risk having to pull it back apart to replace the pistons after you just built it and the boost spiked...

Brian

A.J.
09-27-2012, 11:39 PM
get at least +40's. dont even bother installing the flex fuel injectors.

+40's were the spec for your turbo installed on a less flowy engine.

you are installing a turbo that was paired with the 52lb injectors on an engine that flows alot more, especially at the torque peak.

dont risk having to pull it back apart to replace the pistons after you just built it and the boost spiked...

Brian

Yes dad. :-) Would you recommend only +40's since they were paired for a less flowy engine? I'd rather only buy injectors once.


I got my adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator so I can use the non-return SRT-4 fuel rail. I got a gauge for it because I don't have a schrader valve port on the fuel rail.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0310.jpg

100mm threaded rod and hardened washers. The thickness was more consistent with the hardened ones than the cheaper steel ones. $5.98 in parts. I can't believe people would spend $20 dollars on spacers.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0299.jpg

I had to grind on the intake a little because the injectors are real close.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0300.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0305.jpg

This is the rubber grommet that attaches the fuel rail cover.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0302.jpg

I drilled a hole in it so it can slide on the threaded rod.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0303.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0304.jpg

And done. It's ready to install. I have to install it to finnish fabbing up the exhaust manifold. I'm hoping to start it in the next week or so and have it running at the latest December.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0307.jpg

I just have to finnish replacing the head on this before I can start the engine swap in my van. I don't want too many dead cars taking up space in my shop. At least once the head is fixed I can drive it in and out while I'm trying to sell it.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0309.jpg

A.J.

tryingbe
09-28-2012, 09:34 AM
Would you recommend only +40's since they were paired for a less flowy engine? I'd rather only buy injectors once.


Go big.

Buy the 3 and extra 1 for under $130.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSD-Ignition-Part-2064-SCI-750cc-min-72lbs-hr-Fuel-Injectors-3-/390473982253?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aea10212d&vxp=mtr

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/3301770614.html

even better
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/3241818564.html

What RPM do you want to rev this engine to?

A.J.
09-28-2012, 11:04 AM
If the guy selling the ones he bought for the SRT-4 they'll be high impedance injectors and I can't use them.

I don't know what a 2.4 redlines at so I don't know.

A.J.

RoadWarrior222
09-28-2012, 11:34 AM
Where do you want it to? Are you putting solid lifters in, upgrading rods? Balancing rotating assembly to 0.0001g?

tryingbe
09-28-2012, 11:59 AM
If the guy selling the ones he bought for the SRT-4 they'll be high impedance injectors and I can't use them.

A.J.

Bag says 2 ohm, low impedance injectors.

turbovanmanČ
09-28-2012, 12:06 PM
Yes dad. :-) Would you recommend only +40's since they were paired for a less flowy engine? I'd rather only buy injectors once.

+40's will get you to 400 whp no problem, they got me to mid 12's with room to spare and others have run more hp with them. If you plan on turning up the wick down the road, go bigger. Currently running 75 lb injectors due one going bad on me. Can't complain, got 7 or so years out of them.







100mm threaded rod and hardened washers. The thickness was more consistent with the hardened ones than the cheaper steel ones. $5.98 in parts. I can't believe people would spend $20 dollars on spacers.



Because its all about the bling, :D

Nice work, looks good, :thumb:

RoadWarrior222
09-28-2012, 12:27 PM
~3/8 diameter titanium tube can be got for $1.60 an inch... :eyebrows: that woulda been bling for near the same money as washers :D

"Custom titanium rail spacers" sounds better than "Custom hardened steel rail spacers" :D

Reeves
09-28-2012, 05:07 PM
I got my adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator so I can use the non-return SRT-4 fuel rail. I got a gauge for it because I don't have a schrader valve port on the fuel rail.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0310.jpg

A.J.

Is it really a RRG regulator or just a 1:1?

Also, be a little careful with the liquid filled fuel pressure gauge. They are typically only accurate at room temp. The hotter they get, the farther they are off.

RoadWarrior222
09-28-2012, 05:34 PM
Is it really a RRG regulator or just a 1:1? I was actually wondering that, because it looks damn similar to an industrial/commercial pressure regulator valve I picked up to play with.

Aries_Turbo
09-28-2012, 06:08 PM
Also, be a little careful with the liquid filled fuel pressure gauge. They are typically only accurate at room temp. The hotter they get, the farther they are off.

there is a simple solution to that.... "burp" that little cap at the top of the gauge when you want to take your reading. it releases the pressure or vacuum inside that gauge that messes with the accuracy.

we have lots of liquid filled gauges at work for water flow testing. when the gauges sat in the sun they would all read wrong. i came along and burped them and then they read perfect again.

Brian

turbovanmanČ
09-28-2012, 06:20 PM
we have lots of liquid filled gauges at work for water flow testing. when the gauges sat in the sun they would all read wrong. i came along and burped them and then they read perfect again.

Brian

Nom, nom, nom, :D

Reeves
09-28-2012, 07:03 PM
there is a simple solution to that.... "burp" that little cap at the top of the gauge when you want to take your reading. it releases the pressure or vacuum inside that gauge that messes with the accuracy.

we have lots of liquid filled gauges at work for water flow testing. when the gauges sat in the sun they would all read wrong. i came along and burped them and then they read perfect again.

Brian

Absolutely

A.J.
09-28-2012, 08:44 PM
Is it really a RRG regulator or just a 1:1?

Also, be a little careful with the liquid filled fuel pressure gauge. They are typically only accurate at room temp. The hotter they get, the farther they are off.

It's a 1:1 (1 psi of fuel pressure for every 1 lb of boost). I thought a rising rate regulator was a 1:1. There is a difference?

A.J.

RoadWarrior222
09-28-2012, 08:49 PM
Uhuh, the rate rises :D

1:1 is the rate, if it stays 1:1 it don't rise do it?

RoadWarrior222
09-28-2012, 09:46 PM
http://www.performancecar.co.nz/articles/technical-articles/dres-anatomy-fuel-pressure-regulators-168
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_pumps.html

Vigo
09-28-2012, 11:33 PM
A rising rate regulator can basically make your injectors act larger in boost by jacking your fuel pressure. It also makes the motor run progressively richer the higher the boost level.

IMO they are almost useless if you have better fuel control options (which you definitely do). I dont think one has any place on your current build.

A.J.
09-29-2012, 01:04 AM
Okay, I don't have a rising rate regulator. I only have a 1:1 regulator. That's what I asked for and that's what I bought. I had the terminology wrong.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
09-29-2012, 03:58 AM
A rising rate regulator can basically make your injectors act larger in boost by jacking your fuel pressure. It also makes the motor run progressively richer the higher the boost level.

IMO they are almost useless if you have better fuel control options (which you definitely do). I dont think one has any place on your current build.

He still needs a way to up the fuel pressure in boost.

Vigo
09-29-2012, 09:29 AM
Well, with properly sized injectors he can go up at 1:1 ratio and tune for it with the electronics.

RRRs arent very practical on smaller motors that run a lot of boost because your fuel pressure ends up skyhigh and most single pump setups start dropping volume big time as pressures get up to and past 80 psi. Starting at a 55 base like the 8v's do, that only gives you ~25 psi anyway before you need to start thinking about another pump in series, or lowering your base pressure and rescaling for that. If pressure goes up faster than 1:1 you have to run lower base pressure right away or you'll be maxing out the pump and leaning out or blowing up in no time even on mild boost levels.

Aries_Turbo
09-29-2012, 10:45 AM
Okay, I don't have a rising rate regulator. I only have a 1:1 regulator. That's what I asked for and that's what I bought. I had the terminology wrong.

A.J.

you have what you need regulator wise.

as for injectors, the stock SRT injectors are ~55lb, stage 2/3 are 65lb.

id go with 65-75lb if you want to make 350hp and have room for error and not have the injector duty cycles above 80% (better for the injector and injector drivers in the ECU......)

Brian

A.J.
09-29-2012, 11:03 AM
So the ones Tryingbe linked to would give me room to grow or are they too big? $200 seems like a good price. I haven't had a chance to look to see what they are new.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/3241818564.html
I HAVE A SET OF 4 BRAND NEW, MSD 1000CC (96LB/HR) INJECTORS STILL IN ORIGINAL PACKAGING. WILL WORK ON JUST ABOUT EVERY IMPORT CAR. BOUGHT THEM FOR MY SRT-4 AND DECIDED TO GO A DIFFERENT ROUTE. NEVER BEEN INSTALLED.

A.J.

glhs727
09-29-2012, 11:18 AM
what are you using to tune the car with? are you set-up to run low impedance injectors or high impedance? The best bet if using early electronics is using the stock style 1:1 rising rate reg, doing a cal that puts you at about 40 psi to start and build to 60-70 at full boost to stay in the optimal range for your pump. Based on what I have seen stock srt motors versus built big turbo srt motors is that if running 40-45 static and 20 psi of boost you will need at least 600cc injectors, and if going to a bigger turbo or more mods then 750 are even better. 96 lbs are going to be nightmare to dail in. I would be looking to get some 65's or 72's if this was my car..... new they are only about $250 a set from us, and probably cheaper used, but I prefer to use NEW injectors or if you get a set used REALLY cheap, have them tested and cleaned before use. Otherwise you could blow up your motor with a unknown bad injector.

1BADVAN
09-29-2012, 12:18 PM
what are you using to tune the car with? are you set-up to run low impedance injectors or high impedance? The best bet if using early electronics is using the stock style 1:1 rising rate reg, doing a cal that puts you at about 40 psi to start and build to 60-70 at full boost to stay in the optimal range for your pump. Based on what I have seen stock srt motors versus built big turbo srt motors is that if running 40-45 static and 20 psi of boost you will need at least 600cc injectors, and if going to a bigger turbo or more mods then 750 are even better. 96 lbs are going to be nightmare to dail in. I would be looking to get some 65's or 72's if this was my car..... new they are only about $250 a set from us, and probably cheaper used, but I prefer to use NEW injectors or if you get a set used REALLY cheap, have them tested and cleaned before use. Otherwise you could blow up your motor with a unknown bad injector.
thats a great idea, I never would have thought of planning to start your fuel pressure a bit lower to maintain pump efficiency at higher boost.

Also I know shelgame was playing around with the settings on one cal that helped the car idle with big injectors, something to do with injector latency

turbovanmanČ
09-29-2012, 12:55 PM
what are you using to tune the car with? are you set-up to run low impedance injectors or high impedance? The best bet if using early electronics is using the stock style 1:1 rising rate reg, doing a cal that puts you at about 40 psi to start and build to 60-70 at full boost to stay in the optimal range for your pump. Based on what I have seen stock srt motors versus built big turbo srt motors is that if running 40-45 static and 20 psi of boost you will need at least 600cc injectors, and if going to a bigger turbo or more mods then 750 are even better. 96 lbs are going to be nightmare to dail in. I would be looking to get some 65's or 72's if this was my car..... new they are only about $250 a set from us, and probably cheaper used, but I prefer to use NEW injectors or if you get a set used REALLY cheap, have them tested and cleaned before use. Otherwise you could blow up your motor with a unknown bad injector.

That's great advice, :nod:

A.J.
09-29-2012, 08:40 PM
what are you using to tune the car with? are you set-up to run low impedance injectors or high impedance? The best bet if using early electronics is using the stock style 1:1 rising rate reg, doing a cal that puts you at about 40 psi to start and build to 60-70 at full boost to stay in the optimal range for your pump. Based on what I have seen stock srt motors versus built big turbo srt motors is that if running 40-45 static and 20 psi of boost you will need at least 600cc injectors, and if going to a bigger turbo or more mods then 750 are even better. 96 lbs are going to be nightmare to dail in. I would be looking to get some 65's or 72's if this was my car..... new they are only about $250 a set from us, and probably cheaper used, but I prefer to use NEW injectors or if you get a set used REALLY cheap, have them tested and cleaned before use. Otherwise you could blow up your motor with a unknown bad injector.

I'll be running an '89 SMEC and using an Ostrich to tune with MP Tune so I'll need low impedance injectors. I'll be in touch about those injectors.

A.J.

tryingbe
09-30-2012, 12:54 AM
Also I know shelgame was playing around with the settings on one cal that helped the car idle with big injectors, something to do with injector latency

I'm running 83 lbs injectors in my Omni with 4 bar regulator, don't have any issue with car idle.

RoadWarrior222
09-30-2012, 09:34 AM
I'll be running an '89 SMEC and using an Ostrich to tune with MP Tune so I'll need low impedance injectors. I'll be in touch about those injectors. A.J.didn't '89 still need a speedo cable, and the speedo in an '88 does for sure, so check the '89 VSS/speedo drive fits in the extension housing of the 604 or 5 speed, forgot or didn't register what tranny you're using with it there. Never actually had a neon vss in hand, so not sure if they're subtly but terribly different or something.

A.J.
09-30-2012, 10:11 AM
didn't '89 still need a speedo cable, and the speedo in an '88 does for sure, so check the '89 VSS/speedo drive fits in the extension housing of the 604 or 5 speed, forgot or didn't register what tranny you're using with it there. Never actually had a neon vss in hand, so not sure if they're subtly but terribly different or something.

Yes my '89 has a speedo cable. I'm using a 31TH transmission out of a '98 Caravan that had a N/A 2.4. It's the A413 with the starter on the opposite side. They share the same speed sensor hole.

A.J.

A.J.
10-20-2012, 09:20 PM
IT'S IN! Better pictures in the future. My digital camera crapped out on me and I talked my girlfriend into loaning me hers through out the rest of this build.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/IMG_0419.jpg

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
10-20-2012, 09:47 PM
I forget, what did you use for mounts?

A.J.
10-20-2012, 10:12 PM
I forget, what did you use for mounts?

Transmission mount swapped from my A413 to the 31TH. The right front engine mount is my '88 poly mount with a Stratus engine bracket with an adaptor I bought from a guy on Neon.org. The front mount (below the radiator) is from the '98 2.4 N/A Caravan I bought for parts. The engine is WAY off to one side. Modification need to be made to the front mount. Stay tuned for updates. I'm jazzed to get this done so updates will be quick and often.

A.J.

black86glhs
10-20-2012, 10:56 PM
Man AJ, I know you had a good bit done before the swap, but damn!!! Looking good.:nod:

A.J.
10-21-2012, 06:57 PM
I spent about 3 hours today trying to separate my custom lengthened CV shaft from the intermediate shaft and only moved it about 1/16" after penetrating spray, heat, air chisel, and BFH. The intermediate shaft is mangled and is a lost cause. Hopefully I can still save the CV shaft by cutting the intermediate shaft off. I'm so pi$$ed off at this point I'm ready to scrap the whole f-ing project.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2574.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2575.jpg

I centered the engine by using one CV shaft and swapping it from one side to the other. Once I got it centered I had to shim the passenger side engine mount an inch and get a longer 5" bolt. I wanted the bolt holes in the center of the mount incase once I get the CV shaft/intermediate shaft apart I need to adjust it some more. I'm not sure how I feel about the bracket being so far away from the mount.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2570.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2569.jpg

I had to slot the front engine mount bracket to get it centered. Other than that the '98 2.4 N/A Caravan mount worked perfectly.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2568.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2567.jpg

I think I'm going to have to go with a PT Cruiser intake. I have less than 2" between the throttle body and the radiator. I don't know if anyone makes 1.5" thick fans. I have more room for the condenser fan. I could probably make it work but I really don't want to re-engineer the front (radiator, trans cooler, intercooler) and spend the money on fans when it could be as simple as bolting on a PT Cruiser intake. It has to be an aluminum intake, I don't want a plastic one. Anybody got a lead on one hit me up.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2571.jpg

I'm going to have to rework the exhaust manifold. I thought I was going to have enough room but I don't. I'm going to have to talk to my welder about cutting up the already welded one, trim it down, and weld it back together. I'm probably going to have to start from scratch and buy a new flange, elbows, and T's. Balls!

A.J.

tryingbe
10-21-2012, 07:03 PM
Put a grease fitting at the intermediate shaft

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?57497-Right-inner-cv-axle-rusted-in-to-the-intermediate-shaft&


PT forum says plastic intake is a 10hp + mod...

A.J.
10-21-2012, 07:35 PM
I don't want plastic. You can't weld, drill, or tap for any add-ons. It's bad enough I'm going to have to use the plastic thermostat housing.

A.J.

black86glhs
10-21-2012, 08:58 PM
What about turning the TB so the bracket and cam are on top?

A.J.
10-21-2012, 09:19 PM
I don't know. I'll look into it but I think after seeing how close everything is, the PT intake is the way to go.

A.J.

tryingbe
10-21-2012, 09:41 PM
Post a WTB, I'm sure you'll find one in AZ.

http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/index.php

shackwrrr
10-21-2012, 10:00 PM
What about a 2.4 minivan intake with a Plenum on top.

A.J.
10-21-2012, 10:41 PM
I have the 2.4 N/A Caravan intake. I thought about it but it looks like crap. I don't want to build a custom plenum. Besides, the lower portion of the 2.4 N/A Caravan intake and the thermostat housing are one unit. I don't want coolant heating up the #1 intake runner. Head designs changed between '00 and '01. I don't think the lower intake would bolt up anyway.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
10-22-2012, 03:12 PM
Transmission mount swapped from my A413 to the 31TH. The right front engine mount is my '88 poly mount with a Stratus engine bracket with an adaptor I bought from a guy on Neon.org. The front mount (below the radiator) is from the '98 2.4 N/A Caravan I bought for parts. The engine is WAY off to one side. Modification need to be made to the front mount. Stay tuned for updates. I'm jazzed to get this done so updates will be quick and often.

A.J.

Gotcha.





I centered the engine by using one CV shaft and swapping it from one side to the other. Once I got it centered I had to shim the passenger side engine mount an inch and get a longer 5" bolt. I wanted the bolt holes in the center of the mount incase once I get the CV shaft/intermediate shaft apart I need to adjust it some more. I'm not sure how I feel about the bracket being so far away from the mount.

You can buy the proper mount on here, I think its www.turbobygod.com but he has a post up about custom mounts.





I think I'm going to have to go with a PT Cruiser intake. I have less than 2" between the throttle body and the radiator. I don't know if anyone makes 1.5" thick fans. I have more room for the condenser fan. I could probably make it work but I really don't want to re-engineer the front (radiator, trans cooler, intercooler) and spend the money on fans when it could be as simple as bolting on a PT Cruiser intake. It has to be an aluminum intake, I don't want a plastic one. Anybody got a lead on one hit me up.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2571.jpg

I'm going to have to rework the exhaust manifold. I thought I was going to have enough room but I don't. I'm going to have to talk to my welder about cutting up the already welded one, trim it down, and weld it back together. I'm probably going to have to start from scratch and buy a new flange, elbows, and T's. Balls!

A.J.

I have a slimline fan by one of the aftermarket guys, sorry, name escaping me, its very thin, maybe 2.0" at the motor then tapers in as I had the same issue as you after modifying my intake. Its literally mm's away from the fan.

Bummer on the exhaust manifold, :(

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Canoncamerapics068.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Canoncamerapics067.jpg

black86glhs
10-22-2012, 04:53 PM
Gotcha.





You can buy the proper mount on here, I think its www.turbobygod.com (http://www.turbobygod.com) but he has a post up about custom mounts.





I have a slimline fan by one of the aftermarket guys, sorry, name escaping me, its very thin, maybe 2.0" at the motor then tapers in as I had the same issue as you after modifying my intake. Its literally mm's away from the fan.

Bummer on the exhaust manifold, :(
Yeah, but he wants to be more reliable than you!!!:D:p

turbovanmanČ
10-22-2012, 05:16 PM
Yeah, but he wants to be more reliable than you!!!:D:p

LOL, but not sure how proper cooling is less reliable? :confused: :D

black86glhs
10-22-2012, 07:29 PM
Nevermind. Moment was over as soon as you tried to comprehend.:p

A.J.
10-22-2012, 08:43 PM
I'll have a PT Cruiser 2.4 turbo ALUMINUM intake tomorrow for $100. If I use the PT intake I can use my intercooler plumbing from my 2.5 which will same me some time. Along with reusing my fans. I can save a lot of time and trouble just switching to the PT intake.

I got the wiring done for the alternator, AC compressor, and a couple of other things.



You can buy the proper mount on here, I think its www.turbobygod.com but he has a post up about custom mounts.


Linky no worky. I thought I had the proper mount, well not the mount but the bracket that the mount attaches to. That was the one everybody was using when doing the 2.4 swap.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
10-22-2012, 10:01 PM
Meh, its www.turbogod.com

Here's some more links-

http://voice.htmlplanet.com/srt4omni.htm

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?46060-2.4L-Engine-Mounts/page4

wallace
10-23-2012, 08:14 AM
I've got a van Intermediate shaft here if you need a replacement.

A.J.
10-24-2012, 01:38 AM
I've got a van Intermediate shaft here if you need a replacement.

Thanks for the offer but I have an extra. it's the one I used to mock up the bearing support.

I can reuse my 2.5 RF engine mount and the 2.5/A413 transmission mount but the '98 2.4 Caravan mount is a little tired so I had to get a new one. I filled it to make a semi-solid mount. I figure I'm going to need it because I don't have a rear mount and with the power I'll be laying down (hopefully) I'll need all the support I can get.

Before:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2576.jpg

After:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2577.jpg

I got my PT GT intake today. Not as cool at the Neon intake put I'll put function over style if it'll save me time and money.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2578.jpg

Other accomplishment today:

I got my AC lines removed so I can have the '98 Caravan compressor lines put on.

I got my PS pressure line off to get a custom line made with the '88 rack end and the '98 Caravan PS pump end.

I made a new bracket for the coil. Since I'm using the PT intake I had to lay my coil down instead of having it stand straight up like it was.

A.J.

moparman76_69
10-24-2012, 07:39 PM
So you are using both the engine bracket and body bracket off a N/A 2.4 caravan for the front mount?

turbovanmanČ
10-24-2012, 07:49 PM
Install an L body dog bone, easy to do and it really helps, :nod:

A.J.
10-24-2012, 10:15 PM
So you are using both the engine bracket and body bracket off a N/A 2.4 caravan for the front mount?

Yes I am. I'll take a better picture of it but it bolted right up after I slotted the holes a little.

No pictures today. I forgot my camera. I didn't want to torture anybody with my cell phone pics.

I got my high pressure power steering line back today. I forgot that I had to mount the PS reservoir also. Power steering is done.

I got my AC lines back today. AC is done.

I got the PT Cruiser dip stick tube and dip stick. I couldn't use the SRT-4 Neon one. About $12 my cost for both.

I got the rear upper intake support bracket. It didn't come with the used intake. About $6 from the dealer. I don't know if I'm going to get the front lower support bracket. I'm using the heater tubes out of a Stratus and it looks like they're going to be in the way. If I do get it it's only about $11.

I started working on mounting the throttle body. I'll finnish that tomorrow.

A.J.

Reaper1
10-25-2012, 04:46 AM
That passenger's side mount is SCARY! You've got the bolt in single shear and the engine hanging off the end of it basically in a cantilever situation. Not good. I've never liked how the older mounts have that bolt in single shear and in you case having the support so far away from the load (even with a spacer), it just looks like a recipe for a reoccurring failure point, especially the rubber mount. There has to be a better way!

Aries_Turbo
10-25-2012, 10:39 AM
the older mount isnt in single shear. i mean it when the loop over the top flexes a bunch it almost is but they made that thing structural for a reason.

Brian

A.J.
10-25-2012, 11:18 AM
That passenger's side mount is SCARY! You've got the bolt in single shear and the engine hanging off the end of it basically in a cantilever situation. Not good. I've never liked how the older mounts have that bolt in single shear and in you case having the support so far away from the load (even with a spacer), it just looks like a recipe for a reoccurring failure point, especially the rubber mount. There has to be a better way!

I have an idea on what I'm going to do. I like redundancy to be on the safe side. Even with the older style mount bracket, there's the hook that goes over the top. So in case the bolt breaks, at least the engine is only going to fall so far.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
10-25-2012, 01:26 PM
That passenger's side mount is SCARY! You've got the bolt in single shear and the engine hanging off the end of it basically in a cantilever situation. Not good. I've never liked how the older mounts have that bolt in single shear and in you case having the support so far away from the load (even with a spacer), it just looks like a recipe for a reoccurring failure point, especially the rubber mount. There has to be a better way!

There is, I posted up a thread with mounts, :D

Reaper1
10-25-2012, 02:48 PM
You guys are right...I forgot about the "hook" part. DOH!

A.J.
10-25-2012, 08:39 PM
Here's better pictures of the front mount that bolts right up to stock location in my '88 van after a little slotting of bolt holes.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2594.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2593.jpg

I got the throttle body adaptor plate done today.

PT intake throttle body boss.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2583.jpg

My adaptor plate.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2584.jpg

Throttle body bolted up.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2585.jpg

My ignition coil laying down to clear the PT intake next to my new $6 intake support bracket.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2590.jpg

My '98 power steering fluid reservoir.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2587.jpg

My 2.5 intercooler plumbing. It's close but I'm going to have to cut the welds to re-clock all the pieces and add a new 45* bend.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2592.jpg

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
10-25-2012, 08:54 PM
Very cool, I think that intake is a way better idea, gives you more room. Hmmmmmmmmm, lol.

moparman76_69
10-25-2012, 09:10 PM
Here's better pictures of the front mount that bolts right up to stock location in my '88 van after a little slotting of bolt holes.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2594.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2593.jpg



Dude you just saved me a ton of time and work. Now all I have to do is figure out the passenger side mount.

A.J.
10-25-2012, 09:36 PM
Very cool, I think that intake is a way better idea, gives you more room. Hmmmmmmmmm, lol.

You have no idea how much room I have. Once I take the plenum off, turbo work is a breeze and the stater is way easy to service now.


Dude you just saved me a ton of time and work. Now all I have to do is figure out the passenger side mount.

Stay tuned, I have a solution to that also but I have to wait to get my axles back to make sure my engine/trans is truly centered before I pull the trigger.

A.J.

A.J.
10-26-2012, 09:34 PM
I got the cold side of my intercooler plumbing done today. It was off enough where I though it'd be better to just cut all the elbows off and re-clock them to the angles I needed. The hardest one to do was the section that I snaked through the body that goes from the intercooler into the engine compartment. The 2.4 AC compressor sits closer than the 2.5 water pump did so I had to adjust the angle of it.

2.5 engine up to the throttle body.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2595.jpg

Cut up.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2597.jpg

2.4 ready.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2598.jpg

Complete from the intercooler to the throttle body. All together I have about 10 feet of intercooler plumbing.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2599.jpg

I didn't take a picture of them installed yet because the paint had to dry.

On my 2.5 I used the airbox bracket to support the hot side of my intercooler plumbing. The bolt holes lined up so I cut up a spare to again support my hot side intercooler plumbing. I didn't have to modify the hot side intercooler plumbing except for the piece from the turbo to the junction at the top of the transmission.

2.5 airbox bracket with intercooler hose clamp support.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2600.jpg

2.4 with 2.5 airbox support bracket with hose clamp support.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2602.jpg

A.J.

RoadWarrior222
10-27-2012, 07:14 PM
Complete from the intercooler to the throttle body. All together I have about 10 feet of intercooler plumbing..
Heh, might barely need the actual intercooler with all that pipe :D

A.J.
10-27-2012, 08:48 PM
Things have been REALLY slow at my shop. This past week I didn't have one job. Good for getting the swap done but bad for paying the bills. The owner of the diesel shop next door to my shop offered me some work to take the load off his shoulders. So my progress going further won't be as fast as it's been but I'm 75% of the way there so in the next couple of weeks I expect to start it.

I got the cold side of my intercooler plumbing installed today.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2606.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2609.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2610.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2612.jpg

I got the barbs on my full pressure regulator installed today.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2613.jpg

A.J.

turboshelbys
10-27-2012, 08:52 PM
Looking good brother. Are you going to run a alky/meth system as well?

A.J.
10-27-2012, 09:13 PM
Looking good brother. Are you going to run a alky/meth system as well?

Nope. I don't like things that I have to refill. I don't even like getting gas but thats a necessity.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
10-28-2012, 03:55 AM
Things have been REALLY slow at my shop.

A.J.

I here you, its brutal out there, :(

shackwrrr
10-28-2012, 08:59 AM
Been really slow at the shop I work at too.

Big_P
10-28-2012, 09:32 AM
Real slow here, too.

A.J.
10-28-2012, 10:59 AM
I here you, its brutal out there, :(


Been really slow at the shop I work at too.


Real slow here, too.

That's what I've heard from the reps for my vendors that go shop to shop. In the past I'd hear that's it's slow but I wasn't affected. I went from doing double from March to mid July down to barely making the minimum I need to pay my bills at home and the shop. Thankfully I keep my overhead very low and I don't have any debt, other than what I accumulate through the month but that's paid off by the end of the month. A few things are working against me right now, 1) I moved. My shop is no longer adjacent a lube shop which generated customers for me because I did a lot of stuff they couldn't do. 2) I'm in the back of my complex so I don't have the street visibility that I once had. I still get some walk-in customers but not at the rate I use to. 3) The lube shop that I sub-leased from which was closed is now open again. They siphon off a lot of the walk-ins because their building screams "quick lube." But now that the diesel shop is feeding me their overflow, I think I'll be alright. But now I have to save up for a 10,000 or 12,000 lb lift to lift the diesels. I wanted to get one for heavy trucks anyway but the four post fell in my lap so I snatched that up. I have two 7000 lb lifts so I have to work on jack stands which sucks.

In the picture you can see I had to move my four post oil change/quick inspection lift (it has wheels I can attach to make it portable) in the back so I can use it as storage because the diesel is too long and needs the floor space. What I want to do is get the 12,000 lb lift for diesels and put it closer to the back on the side the truck is on and leave the four post where it is for storage and on-going project cars.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF2603.jpg

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
10-28-2012, 02:26 PM
That's what I've heard from the reps for my vendors that go shop to shop. In the past I'd hear that's it's slow but I wasn't affected. I went from doing double from March to mid July down to barely making the minimum I need to pay my bills at home and the shop. Thankfully I keep my overhead very low and I don't have any debt, other than what I accumulate through the month but that's paid off by the end of the month. A few things are working against me right now, 1) I moved. My shop is no longer adjacent a lube shop which generated customers for me because I did a lot of stuff they couldn't do. 2) I'm in the back of my complex so I don't have the street visibility that I once had. I still get some walk-in customers but not at the rate I use to. 3) The lube shop that I sub-leased from which was closed is now open again. They siphon off a lot of the walk-ins because their building screams "quick lube." But now that the diesel shop is feeding me their overflow, I think I'll be alright. But now I have to save up for a 10,000 or 12,000 lb lift to lift the diesels. I wanted to get one for heavy trucks anyway but the four post fell in my lap so I snatched that up. I have two 7000 lb lifts so I have to work on jack stands which sucks.

In the picture you can see I had to move my four post oil change/quick inspection lift (it has wheels I can attach to make it portable) in the back so I can use it as storage because the diesel is too long and needs the floor space. What I want to do is get the 12,000 lb lift for diesels and put it closer to the back on the side the truck is on and leave the four post where it is for storage and on-going project cars.


A.J.

Wow, your story reads like mine, I was in a prime spot on the main drag, right next to a lube shop, I got walk in's, feeds from them, had a constant flow. I finally got the owners to sell the building, we settled on a price, got financing then the wife-boss died, they jacked up the price and I had to move NOW, find a shop off the beaten path and my business took an instant 50% hit, so its been a battle for the last 7 years and the last 2 have been awful, :( Thanks to friends and the fact I am virtually the only TD guy around, that keeps me going believe it or not, lol.

RoadWarrior222
10-29-2012, 01:46 PM
Go for the womens market, few copies of cosmo in the waiting room and a patient attitude to explain things. Enlist wife/gf to check out your customer side facilities for hints to make it more female friendly or less intimidating... have some problem description sheets printed up they can draw a big x on the car where the noise seems to be coming from etc.

turbovanmanČ
10-29-2012, 02:32 PM
Go for the womens market, few copies of cosmo in the waiting room and a patient attitude to explain things. Enlist wife/gf to check out your customer side facilities for hints to make it more female friendly or less intimidating... have some problem description sheets printed up they can draw a big x on the car where the noise seems to be coming from etc.

I have a large female clientele, my washroom is the cleanest in town, :nod:

black86glhs
10-29-2012, 09:57 PM
I like large female clientele, my washroom is the cleanest in town, :nod:Fixed it for you.:D

A.J.
10-30-2012, 01:39 AM
Go for the womens market, few copies of cosmo in the waiting room and a patient attitude to explain things. Enlist wife/gf to check out your customer side facilities for hints to make it more female friendly or less intimidating... have some problem description sheets printed up they can draw a big x on the car where the noise seems to be coming from etc.

You mean the American Rifleman and the NRA's America's First Freedom with my girlfriends name on it isn't enough? I take extra time to explain things to women so they feel more comfortable. I tell them that I want to educate them about their vehicles so if they can't make it back to me they're more knowledgeable and less likely to get ripped off. Some take the time to learn, others just want to get in their cars and go.

A.J.

A.J.
10-30-2012, 02:19 AM
I told my parts guy at O'Reilly's he should come by to check out my van. He hasn't seen it since I started the swap and he's a car guy building a '65 Dart. He shows up with beer. I never drink while I'm working. I'm surprised I didn't loose a finger or burn my shop down. I had to stay until 9:30 to sober up so I could drive home. But I did get a few things accomplished.

I got the trans pan studs in. Since I'm going to have to drop the pan quite a few times to get the adjustment on the governor right, studs are the way to go. Ace wanted $2.60 a stud and I needed 14. So instead I bought 100mm threaded rod for $1.60 a piece and got 3 studs out of one rod. On the studs that didn't bottom out I put a small dot of braze on them to keep them from turning all the way in.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2616.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2615.jpg

I started working on the passenger side mount. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves until I get it finished.

Factory 2.2/2.5 up to '89 passenger side mount.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2617.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2618.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2619.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2620.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2622.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2624.jpg

I need more threads on my 5" long bolt.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2625.jpg

Son of a........ Damn grade 8 bolt. And I was using cutting oil.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2626.jpg

The big guns.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2627.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2628.jpg

Now I have enough threads.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2629.jpg

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
10-30-2012, 02:20 PM
That looks good, :nod:

I studded my pan this year, so much better, :nod:

A.J.
10-31-2012, 12:37 AM
I got my passenger side mount finished today. It's bad a$$. Lots of redundancy. I doubt even the biggest naysayers will challenge me on that one. I wish I had taken a picture of it before I sent it to the welder.

I also sent my aluminum Neon SRT-4 thermostat housing to be cut and re-welded to clear the PT Cruiser intake. I didn't want to use the plastic PT t-stat housing.

I got my exhaust manifold flange and sent that and the elbows to the welder.

So for the next week I doubt I'll have any updates while I'm waiting for parts to return. I did drill some vacuum barb ports into my throttle body adaptor.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2633.jpg

I think I'm going to have to run a cone air filter. I really don't want to. Even if I use a Honda battery, I can't use an 80's turbo air box or a FWD Chrysler 3.0 air box (the only two I have in possession to test fit.) If anybody has any suggestions on air boxes I'd like to hear them. I want to pull air through the computer the way Chrysler intended but if I can't I'll just get a fan and wire it into the ASD relay to be on with the ignition.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2635.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/SRT-4/DSCF2634.jpg

A.J.

turboshelbys
10-31-2012, 08:59 AM
where is the flux capacitor going to go?

A.J.
10-31-2012, 10:43 AM
I don't know. Maybe underneath because I won't get grief at the track for relocating it.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
10-31-2012, 12:54 PM
Why pull air thru the computer? no one does it anymore, lol.

speedfreek500
10-31-2012, 01:29 PM
I have seen people use a small 12v fan in the smec before, I will try and find a pic to show ya what i mean.

Geat job on this build, You van guys are crazy lol.

Aries_Turbo
10-31-2012, 05:42 PM
simon, he is in arizona... not BC....

Brian