Sealer on the 2.4L bedplate?

[1FastCSX289]

Well, I happened to be thumbing through a really old issue of Hot Rod mag and there was an article on the 2.4L turbo engine. As I read through it mentioned that anaerobic sealer is required between the bed plate and the block on the 2.4 turbo. And I said "oh crap" because I didnt put any on there and the motor is assembled and in the car.:banghead:

Now, my block is a 2.4 N/A out of a 97 Stratus and when I took it apart, there was no sealer on that surface. Unless is disapated and didnt leave any residue. Does everyone run sealer on this surface? Anyone NOT run sealer? What are the chances this thing is gonna leak? Im wondering if I should cut my losses now and yank it to disassemble before I finish or wait to see if it leaks. Anyone have any experience to offer here?

[Force Fed Mopar]

They use a clear sealer of some sort in very small quantity. As long as the surfaces were clean, you should be okay.

Edit: Maybe not, I defer to the post below :)

[contraption22]

I talked to my brother, former Chrysler tech, and has built a few 2.4 engines.

It's gonna leak. A lot.

He said to use "Mopar Bedplate Sealer" or the Loctite equaivalent, which he didn't know the name of off the top of his head.

Regualar anerobic sealer is too thick and your bearing clearances will be incorrect. The bedplate sealer is so thin that you may have not seen it when the engine was apart.

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=251815

[1FastCSX289]

Crap. Not the answer i was looking for. I called the Chrysler dealer here and they had no idea what I was talking about until I looked up the part number and they, of course, have to order it. 33 bucks a tube!! :yuck:

Im gonna look into the loctite version and see if I can pick that up at the parts store.

That sucks big time. Motor has to come out, tranny disconnected, clutch, all that B.S. AAAAAARRRRGHGHHG!!!:mad:

[turboshad]

That sucks man. But if you didn't use anything it definately will leak and it's waaaay better to find out now before you run it and things get messy. I used Loctite 518 for mine.

[1FastCSX289]

That sucks man. But if you didn't use anything it definately will leak and it's waaaay better to find out now before you run it and things get messy. I used Loctite 518 for mine.

Yea, its not the worst thing in the world. The motor is only bolted in on the mounts. And they have to come back out for grinding and paint anyways. Then, its a matter of yanking the trans and clutch off the back, so thats a bit of a set back, but I guess thats the way we learn.

Thanks for the loctite number. Ill check into that because I couldnt find the other number I got from their site.

[1FastCSX289]

OK. Motor is out and I got the loctite 518.......im looking at this stuff and it looks like the regular mopar anaerobic sealer. Does this stuff have zero compression thickness? Im worried about the main bearing clearances.

[contraption22]

OK. Motor is out and I got the loctite 518.......im looking at this stuff and it looks like the regular mopar anaerobic sealer. Does this stuff have zero compression thickness? Im worried about the main bearing clearances.

I think the stuff that you are looking for should be green according to the neons.org link i posted above.


Actually I have a tube of the proper sealant here.....
It's called Mopar Bedplate Sealant, and it's green
The part number is 04773257 and it cost me $1.75 CDN

The red stuff (which I also have here ) is called Gasket Maker, and it's number is 4318083. This stuff cost me $15.00 CDN

More>>>
Gasket maker (pink) is used for stuff like oil pump to block and cam caps and starts to cure when the 2 parts are put together. The Bedplate sealer is just for that, it doesn't cure as fast as G.M. and doesn't give false reading when plastigauging main bearings. It will cure once the temps hit about 160 deg F. Have a 2.4 at work that needs a crank kit put in and had to order 10 tubes of Bedplate sealer due the min. sales quantity (MSQ). Stuff lists out at 30$.

[Speedeuphoria]

The mopar "bedplate sealant" is green and expensive. Its supposedly a zero clearance sealant meaning that it wont affect the bearing clearances.

Myself and many others used normal red anerobic sealant w/o issues. Dont put gobs on there just a continuous bead.

Funny thing is that i havent seen anyone do a test to see how the bearing clearances were affected, not saying that it wont, just not sure how much compared to the green.

[t3rse]

The mopar "bedplate sealant" is green and expensive. Its supposedly a zero clearance sealant meaning that it wont affect the bearing clearances.

Myself and many others used normal red anerobic sealant w/o issues. Dont put gobs on there just a continuous bead.

Funny thing is that i havent seen anyone do a test to see how the bearing clearances were affected, not saying that it wont, just not sure how much compared to the green.

Me too, many miles, no problems.

[1FastCSX289]

The mopar "bedplate sealant" is green and expensive. Its supposedly a zero clearance sealant meaning that it wont affect the bearing clearances.

Myself and many others used normal red anerobic sealant w/o issues. Dont put gobs on there just a continuous bead.

Funny thing is that i havent seen anyone do a test to see how the bearing clearances were affected, not saying that it wont, just not sure how much compared to the green.


Me too, many miles, no problems.


OK, guys.....im counting on you!!! I got the motor out, bedplate sealed up with the loctite stuff, and back together. Just have to bolt up the trans tomorrow and stick it back in there. Thanks for the help.