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View Full Version : Positioning the 2.4 at the correct angle



1FastCSX289
02-17-2010, 09:07 PM
How critical is it to have the engine positioned 100% dead nuts at the perfect alignment front to rear and side to side? I would imagine that the CV joints will make up for a little error in mounting the engine, but how close does it have to be? Im driving myself bonkers questioning whether the motor is in there 100% straight. I mounted up the trans mount on the drivers side, and then bolted the bobble strut in. I have a solid bobble strut, so there is not much moving the engine side to side when thats bolted, but there is some wiggle room front to back. So I used my strut tower brace as a straight edge and lined it up with that.....and then built my passenger side mount. Its in there and looking quite nice......but im not 100% sure its completely on the money. Should I be worrying about this? If so, what can be done to assure its straight?

Speedeuphoria
02-17-2010, 10:55 PM
the side to side is critical for the axles, its just like normal "engine centering" its prob in the knowledge center. Basically put the axles in and measure end play on both sides and make it equal

The angle or lean is important for axles also, what you would do is get an angle gauge/finder(what ever they are called, normally magnetic) and stick on top of the motor to see how it leans. I dont remember the specs but its like 8-12 deg or so, and tilting it more forward or straight up(well like 6deg iirc) will help the axle load also

Sorry i cant remember the exact specs on the angle, but If your going for a better angle look on neons.org for Len's race neon called grover and he did it there and talks about it

1FastCSX289
02-17-2010, 11:24 PM
Thanks. Ive got an angle finder guage. But where do you put the base of the angle finder? And what are you measuring that angle in relation to? And if anyone has anymore info on what angles I might be looking for, that would be great.

1FastCSX289
02-17-2010, 11:44 PM
Ok, so after doing some reading around, I found it on the first page of turboshad's log. Thanks! So, it looks like im shooting for completely level across the top and about a 10-13* tilt. I should be good to go, but ill check it tomorrow. I dont think the tilt will be off because the bobble strut is going to set that angle pretty much to what it was with the old engine....unless the tilt is different from the 2.2 the 2.4??? Ill check it tomorrow....I still have to build the front mount so the tilt can be adjusted yet. Anyone have anything else to add? How could I measure to see that it is not sitting in the engine compartment diagonally? What reference point could I use for that....or is the old eyeball enough to go by?

Speedeuphoria
02-18-2010, 01:39 AM
If your making a front mount then try to get it more straight up like 6deg(dont go farther go back to 8deg if not) as its better on the axles. As a side bonus it will give you a little more room by the firewall for a turbo(assuming thats what your building)

rbryant
02-18-2010, 01:15 PM
Hmm as for diagonally I would check the backside of the valve cover (at the valve cover gasket) to the firewall on both sides of the valve cover. That is a couple of feet across so it should be far enough to show a difference if you are off.. 1" difference over 2 feet is only ~2.4 degrees so it would really have to be way off .


-Rich

BadAssPerformance
02-18-2010, 02:30 PM
I used a level and measuring tape many many times on mine... The most important thing is positioning the axles close to where they were with the 2.2L in it. I was able to get mine within 3/16" but I also took a ton of measurements before removing the 2.2L...

Maybe I'll add 2.4L mounts to the list after headers and scatter sheilds LOL

1FastCSX289
02-18-2010, 03:35 PM
If your making a front mount then try to get it more straight up like 6deg(dont go farther go back to 8deg if not) as its better on the axles. As a side bonus it will give you a little more room by the firewall for a turbo(assuming thats what your building)

Looks like I will need to bring it to about 8 degrees to fit that GT30R in there. And thats after massaging the firewall a bit.....er...alot. If I go any further towards 6*, the oil filter sending unit hits the control arm.


Hmm as for diagonally I would check the backside of the valve cover (at the valve cover gasket) to the firewall on both sides of the valve cover. That is a couple of feet across so it should be far enough to show a difference if you are off.. 1" difference over 2 feet is only ~2.4 degrees so it would really have to be way off .


-Rich

Theres about a half inch difference from one corner of the VC to the other. Im gonna try and get it a bit closer by slotting the engine mount bolts.

rbryant
02-18-2010, 04:04 PM
Looks like I will need to bring it to about 8 degrees to fit that GT30R in there. And thats after massaging the firewall a bit.....er...alot. If I go any further towards 6*, the oil filter sending unit hits the control arm.



Theres about a half inch difference from one corner of the VC to the other. Im gonna try and get it a bit closer by slotting the engine mount bolts.

If you want to know the angle it is simple.

Angle = ARCTAN( difference in firewall distance / difference between points)

Or if you are lazy like me:

http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-trigright.asp

ARCTAN is the most useful trig function for figuring out automotive angles. :)

-Rich