TU "Ultimate" Kevlar Street N' Strip Clutch

[91DSX]

Hey guys,

Is anybody running this clutch in a heavy car? My car comes in at 3200lbs and will hopefully make 330-350WHP/350-400WTRQ, can this clutch hold the power? Chris what do you think?

Trans is a large spline A-568/3.50FD with an OBX:thumb:

Also the car will see %70 street duty. . .

[mcsvt]

I have one but have yet to put it in. Waiting for the means to do it.

Hope it holds up good. Only precaution is the flywheel needs to be as smooth as possible. A mirror type finish was recommended.

[The S is Silent]

I just installed one in my charger, but the car isn't running yet. I hooked up the clutch pedal and like the feel of it though.

The charger should be around 300 horse when it's done.

[Chris W]

Hey guys,

Is anybody running this clutch in a heavy car? My car comes in at 3200lbs and will hopefully make 330-350WHP/350-400WTRQ, can this clutch hold the power? Chris what do you think?

Trans is a large spline A-568/3.50FD with an OBX:thumb:

Also the car will see %70 street duty. . .

Hi Roger,

With the numbers you posted above I would have to say you would be nearing the maximum capabilities of this clutch during the 30% track use. It would be okay on the street with street tires, but, once you add slicks it may eventually fail due to the weight of the vehicle. I would recommend going with our 6-puck ceramic, or, 4-puck ceramic to ensure a longer clutch life with your setup. Don't hesitate to call me should you like to discuss this further.

Thanks for your continued support!

Chris-TUI

[MiniMopar]

Has anyone driven on one of these clutches yet? If so, I'd like to hear your thoughts. Thanks!

[mcsvt]

Every time I drive my car :)
Pedal feel is great, no chatter(well sometimes in reverse), has a very smooth delivery. I have had no slipping, but haven't been to the track yet.

Car is 89 Daytona, 2.5L TII, +40%, 555/520, running about 17psi.

[Mr overkill]

i have one but its still sitting waiting to be put in cant wait lol

[MiniMopar]

Driven it for a few days now. A little chattery on occasion, but very smooth otherwise. Break-in may eliminate that. Feels like an organic clutch. Time will tell how it holds to some real power.

[Gearhead24-7]

I had a 4 puck ceramic RP unit, and it was undrivable on the street. The Kevlar unit has been excellent! I'm not making huge HP tho. Pedal pressure is a *little* heavy, but it's very drivable around town. I don't know about the flywheel surface. I had mine cut with a diamond wheel, it seems to fine after a couple thousand miles. I have +40's and a 3bar map waiting on Cindy to finish the calibration, then I'll have a better idea how it handles more HP.

'88 Lebaron Premium Convertible. 2.5/555, balance shafts removed, Daytona intercooler, TB03 Garrett, FM275 cam, 3" FM exhaust...etc...etc...etc...
'89 Lebaron GTC coupe. 2.2TI/413. Stock daily driver.

[altered7151]

I cant speak on behalf of the kevlar, but DrEvil here in town has the 6-puck ceramic in his Spirit RT, he says he has just a touch of chatter but its easily solved by just bring the rpm's up a tad when you let the clutch out. He took the car to the track a couple weeks ago, and ran a 13.78 in it on slicks. The car weighed in at just a hair under 3200lbs with him in it, and was only holding about 12 psi of boost. He told me thats one of the hardest launches he's ever had in a car, and he drives a 2000 Audi S4, so the clutch is definitally holding well. He daily drives the R/T and doesn't have any complaints about it on the street. I'd suggest stepping up to a bigger clutch, you'd rather have one thats a little overkill than one that isn't going to hold. I have the 4-puck in my charger and it really doesn't feel all that different from the stocker, the engagement point is a little further up the pedal, but I'd have no problem daily driving it at all.

[slasky]

I have the 4 puck ceramic in my SC and it is fine on the street. It is a little grabby and the pedal pressure is a little higher than the T3 that I had, but it is not unreasonable. It held 27 psi in fourth gear on the road last week but I have not tried it at the track yet.

[1990 shadow vnt]

i have that t.u kevlar clutch in my 90 vnt shadow. it holds very well but is very chattery!i know it saya in its description that it isnt but it is.
chatter did diminish after about 3-5000(yes thousand) miles.
i installed it correctly and even bought a brand new mopar flywheel and had it surfaced just like the instructions said.
i didnt even rev it over 3k for 500-1000 miles.
i am not pushing 300hp....half that..150hp dyno tested.
it seems like the more you try to baby the clutch and let it out slow to make for a smooth ride..its not...yet when you rev it up and let it out fast to race or launch hard..its very smooth.
i just did a vnt to t2 swap so with some of the goodies i bolted on,im hoping for around 200 hp.
i was really having a hard time picking out a clutch. i tryed a stock auto zone and it wouldnt grab.
i read reviews of the mcleod rev lok but thought it might be to tough for the street and i heard it eats flywheels up.
next time im not going kevlar..i think its the kevlar that makes the chatter.
i cant say for sure though.just my 2cents.
.....................................ryan......... ...............

[mcsvt]

I have little to no chatter with my Kevlar clutch from TU. Reverse is the only time I will get some.

[slasky]

The ceramic only chattered for 50 miles on my car.

[90Dodgevnt]

I would avoid McLeod and Centerforce...

Had a McLeod clutch setup w/a Cliff R. A-568 R/T tranny from FWD, and the clutch died within 1.5 yrs and *maybe* 17K miles. Clutch scored the flywheel oh so nicely and the Centerforce t/o bearing rattled more then the stocker, and this was right from install.

And no, no burn outs, hard driving, or the like. Had too many mechanical/installation issues to deal with...

[MiniMopar]

OK, that is what I am seeing with the Kevlar too. It chatters pretty bad when letting it out at really low RPM, like when I am backing up. Rev it a bit and it is silky smooth. It's not grabby at the top like the 6-puck was, but if I let it out all the way it bites good.

[Sloride]

My goals/setup are quite similar to 91dsx.
(300+ hp / 330+tq)

I have a 90 daytona with the 523 3.5 final OBX lsd
2.5 litre
Aluminum Flywheel
my car weighs in under 3100

Mainly a street cruiser, some 1/4 mile track time and hopefully more autocross action.

would this clutch also be recommended for me???

[2.216VTurbo]

I have not been a fan of an aluminum flywheel in anything but a very light (no PS or AC etc) L body, then when the power went up over 400, I didn't like the flywheel once again. If you dont already have it consider a stocker with 3-4 lbs taken out of it, much better IMO.

I have the 6 puck TU clutch in one car (very streetable) and a 4 puck ready to go into another. Will report back when it's installed before end of summer...

[WOP'R]

regarding the large spline kevlar unit, is it possible to order a PP from TU that would fit in my 92 R/T? As i just found out the PP for the R/T's are slightly smaller to clear the crank sensor markings.

[91DSX]

My goals/setup are quite similar to 91dsx.
(300+ hp / 330+tq)

I have a 90 daytona with the 523 3.5 final OBX lsd
2.5 litre
Aluminum Flywheel
my car weighs in under 3100

Mainly a street cruiser, some 1/4 mile track time and hopefully more autocross action.

would this clutch also be recommended for me???

Hey Ryan,

I actually ended up going with TU's 6-Puck, I love it so far! (Old RP unit got destroyed after 1 run at the track, 4-Puck)
It's a little chattery but bring the rev's up a little & it's fine,

How much has changed with your car lately?

[Sloride]

Hey Ryan,

I actually ended up going with TU's 6-Puck, I love it so far! (Old RP unit got destroyed after 1 run at the track, 4-Puck)
It's a little chattery but bring the rev's up a little & it's fine,

How much has changed with your car lately?


heehhe lets see....

i finally put the 57trim t4/t3 with a "Stillie" ported head,
car was pulling like a mofo, then the Ring on cylinder 4 gave out 120 kms shy of 300,000

currently the motor is over at Gerry Jones (JA) shop im waiting for him to analyze the block for me so i can order some forged pistons.

im also in the process of doing the fuel lines/rail + the OBX and aluminum flywheel and choosing a proper clutch...

Going fast is becoming a pain in the --- :D

been driving a 1995 GEO TRACKER, which i picked up just before the daytona died. great winter beater. serious lack of power..... the old mitsu is looking like a mighty fine match for it.... but thats another project.

[87glhs232]

My 'S has the kevlar clutch. I love it. You have to very decisive about your clutch engagement. You can't slip it like most people would. I will chatter in stop and go, and it chatters a little in reverse on mine. Chatter seems to be deminishing as more miles are put on. Over all it's a great strip/street clutch, though more geared to strip. I have not been able to get it to slip. No instructions came with mine, but the rule for the flywheel surfacing is to match the surface of the pressure plate. :thumb:

[mcsvt]

Same experiences here as Josh and I just keep putting on more miles. I think it gets even "grabbier" when heated up. Stop and go really isn't to much fun, but I have to deal with it every time I drive so it's second nature now.

[shelbyplaya]

i've got the TU 6 puck Ceramic clutch with the yellow PP. i'm moving a loaded 87 shelby z w/ t-tops on street tires. more then enough grabe to blow the tires off the ground on the track. i'm gonna be running a pair of 255/50/16 DR's today. i'll let you know how it holds up.

also i'm not pushing near as much power as you posted, but it holds up nice.

[johnl]

I have not been a fan of an aluminum flywheel in anything but a very light (no PS or AC etc) L body, then when the power went up over 400, I didn't like the flywheel once again. If you dont already have it consider a stocker with 3-4 lbs taken out of it, much better IMO.

I have the 6 puck TU clutch in one car (very streetable) and a 4 puck ready to go into another. Will report back when it's installed before end of summer...

Alan - what do you think of an aluminum flywheel hooked to a forged crank? That is, more mass in the crank, less in the flywheel . . . . ?

[2.216VTurbo]

Alan - what do you think of an aluminum flywheel hooked to a forged crank? That is, more mass in the crank, less in the flywheel . . . . ?

Yeah, that was my thoery with the GLHS and it was set up with the Fidanza and forged crank. From a launching standpoint it's fine, you don't have to rev the pi$$ out of it to keep it from falling on it's face from every stoplight. But remember, my GLHS is svelt, no PS no AC etc.. Even better with the composite hood, nice to get 80lbs more off the front:eyebrows: Then, when the Masi motor and clutch were fully broken in after 2K miles or so (and the cracked intake manifold was figured out:( ) and I started turning up the boost (like at 17-18 currently) it bacame a tire rippin in fourth monster, and the RevLock is having trouble holding the power now. It lets go with a hiddeous groan:( that sounds almost like metal on metal! There is still debate on why the Aluminum flywheel would have any effect on this but when Melendy had the same issue, only change he made was pull the trans, bead blast the PP and install a cast iron flywheel-problem solved. So it goes back to my earlier speculation that the Aluminum flywheel is fine in a light car but less than 375-400 hp.

BTW John, I'm not the olny one here is waiting for some pics and details on your new 16V L body:eyebrows: ...

[tryingbe]

I really doubt your GLHS hood is more than 50 lbs. I can lift my GLH's hood and move it easily by myself. I'll weight it tonight.

[2.216VTurbo]

I really doubt your GLHS hood is more than 50 lbs. I can lift my GLH's hood and move it easily by myself. I'll weight it tonight.

Certainly you are smarter than to compare an Omni hood to a bulge Charger hood right:rolleyes: ? Careful now if you don't want to lose some credibility...

[tryingbe]

Notice I said "your GLHS" and "my GLH" I know the difference between the Charger GLHS and Omni GLH. They're both L-bodies and I can't believe there is ahuge difference in hood weight between charger and omni.

My GLH's hood is about 36 lbs, that's with the hood liner, grill, tray, vacuum line for the water nozzle, etc... I can't imagine the charger hood being 80+ lbs.