POR products question

[TurboBlue]

I just picked up an '89 c/v for the ultimate sleeper project I am working on. When finished will have a 2.5t running major boost.
My question is that it has rust on the front side of the rear passenger side wheel well (where all caravans seem to rust). I was told you cant fix rust other than cutting out and re welding. Then I came across POR products. Is this stuff worth it and does it work ?

Do they make replacement body panels for this area and what is the normal cost for these. plus what is a ballpark figure to have one welded in ?
The rest of the van is solid and in really good shape, rust wise.

After watching the Mull videos, I wish I had access to welding gear (and knew how to use it).

[BIG PSI]

I just picked up an '89 c/v for the ultimate sleeper project I am working on. When finished will have a 2.5t running major boost.
My question is that it has rust on the front side of the rear passenger side wheel well (where all caravans seem to rust). I was told you cant fix rust other than cutting out and re welding. Then I came across POR products. Is this stuff worth it and does it work ?

Do they make replacement body panels for this area and what is the normal cost for these. plus what is a ballpark figure to have one welded in ?
The rest of the van is solid and in really good shape, rust wise.

After watching the Mull videos, I wish I had access to welding gear (and knew how to use it).


ABSOLUTLY---I have used POR on many parts and the floor.

Chuck

[MiniMopar]

They work very well, but proper surface prep is vital. I've had problems with it coming off of smooth metal. It needs something to bite into.

[TurboBlue]

Will sanding with a rough grit sand paper offer enough bite ? i will be using a paint/rust stripper wheel first.

[Turbodave]

Sherman and Associates sells replacement lower 1/4 panels for the minivans, but they are pretty expensive (about $180 per side).

The contours of the wheel arch are very similar front to rear, so you could cut up a spare front fender to make patch pieces for the the rear 1/4.

[MiniMopar]

Will sanding with a rough grit sand paper offer enough bite ? i will be using a paint/rust stripper wheel first.

Yes. I hit my floor pans with a 40 grit flapper wheel. Seemed to work well.

[TurboBlue]

Well just got a sixpack of por15 silver and metal ready toady. Supposed to be a sunny day tomorrow, so I'll finally get to see for myself .

[MiniMopar]

Wear gloves.

[Darkwolf]

Wearing a full body condom would be better :). That crap doesn't come off till your skin does.

[Subliminal]

Having used POR15 several times, I would say it works like a charm! However, a few things to note:

It seems to work best when the area has been prepped with their chemicals (metal ready and marine clean...although marine clean could probably be subsituted for something else, the metal ready etches the metal a bit...supposedly)

Like said above, try not to get any on you.

The thicker variety (flat black and silver, i believe) will work as resin for fiberglass...just swab some on, lay the fiberglass and swab it over top.

The thick stuff, POR15, will break down in sunlight, so make sure you paint over it.

[MiniMopar]

Definately follow the directions. The only thing I found not to be true is that Medal Ready will make POR-15 adhere well to smooth metal. It won't. POR-15 really needs something to bite into or it will scratch off easily. Also, the Medal Ready contains sulfuric acid (thus the gloves) and it will cause the surface of the prepped metal to rust. This dust also inhibits adhesion, so now I always wipe it down with a alcohol-damped rag. This may remove some of the surface prep left by the Medal Ready, but I've found it aheres better this way than it does leaving the surface rust behind.

Just my two cents.

[PupTruk]

Surface prep can be an issue. The product adheres to a scuffed or roughened surface. The POR is an acronym for Paint Over Rust. Just a hint on not going over board on the smoothing process.

[ssheen]

I found the Black went farther than the silver. Their thinner can take POR of the skin pretty easy.

[MiniMopar]

As long as it hasn't cured, laquer thinner will remove it too.

[TurboBlue]

Your right, it doen't come off easy. Even with thinner. lol

[86lance]

yeah definately wear the gloves,very important step...lol the silver goes a really long way and its supposed to be the strongest out of all the colors because it has metal chips in it i believe.

[Una]

I put it all over the rusted floors of my '83 SC.. Then I used fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth to make the floor solid again. :) No more water getting out..err.. in.. ;)