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Frank
01-19-2010, 02:04 PM
This is an interest poll to encourage vendors to produce at least a group buy of 2.4L mounts for our cars. This would be for the passenger and the front mounts. I would know I would be interested in similar mounts to the ones that turboshad developed.

I couldn't remember the exact difference in families for mounts, so I marked them with what I thought were similar. (aka, don't flame me for something trivial)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01344.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/DSC01333.jpg

Thanks!
Frank

BadAssPerformance
01-19-2010, 02:28 PM
+1 on this... I talked to Johnny @ SDAC last year about getting him the dimensions from mine... but havnt yet :( maybe this thread will be inspiration?

turbovanmanČ
01-19-2010, 02:31 PM
I don't want any but this is a great idea, I think this is the hardest part for a home builder, :nod:

"Top Fuel" Bender
01-19-2010, 02:33 PM
Talk is already in the works ;)
But a judge of interest would be great

1FastCSX289
01-19-2010, 02:38 PM
I would definately be interested....problem is I will probably be putting the engine in my car within a month. So, ill be forced to fabricate (cause I doubt anything would happen that fast). But, I cant see why this wouldnt be an ongoing market......there are a lot of guys making the swap. And parts like these would really push the average enthusiast to go ahead with it.

Frank
01-19-2010, 02:48 PM
I don't want any but this is a great idea, I think this is the hardest part for a home builder, :nod:

Exactly! I have tons of ideas for my car but I don't have the fabrication skills for it.

Johnny
01-19-2010, 03:07 PM
If I had samples, I could easily make them.

turbovanmanČ
01-19-2010, 03:10 PM
If I had samples, I could easily make them.

The whole bracket assemblys?

If so, talk to Turboshad, he might have more or can send you the blueprints, :clap:

Frank
01-19-2010, 03:24 PM
That would be perfect if he could.... his pieces are nice!

rbryant
01-19-2010, 05:23 PM
I would like to see something that actually connected the radiator support to the kframe. It should be a bolt on deal. 2 bolts in the back, and two in the front. I should have the front lbody radiator support pattern already drawn and I can donate the dxf for it.


If we did that we could just put a mount on it that connected to the stock 2.4l caravan mount points and Johnny could make the insert...

If there were just a pair of chromo bars that were bent to go under the oil pan it wouldn't be any harder than making the mounts pictured considering all of the bends involved... Plus it could be boxed and things like oil cooler lines could be safely routed to the front of the car inside of them. and also act as a skid plate to protect the pan. The only additional part would be building a bracket and box for the motor mount insert that aligns with the caravan mount.

It wouldn't really be that much harder and it would be better than a radiator support mount (aside from the shipping costs).

The part number for the newer style 2.4 bracket for the '01-02 caravan (that looks very much like the one turboshad made) is: # 4861574AC and it lists for $51

Here is a picture:
19954

There was also an older style one that is an all steel version of the stratus mount. That also would work except it interferes with the crank position sensor on the NGC (01+) 2.4 blocks.

To me it seems like these are already really nice mounts and we just need to connect them to the car. If we make the mount and the attachment point then we are doing twice the work.

I have an extra one that I can provide for mockup if we go this route. Either way I am pretty sure it is what I want to do in the end so I don't rip the radiator support off from my car with the extra power.

-Rich

turboshad
01-19-2010, 06:41 PM
And here I thought I was going to come in and see some kick a$$ new mounts. I gotta say I'm touched guys. :o

Of course you pick the two pieces that I didn't make drawings for. I would have no problem doing some up but I won't have the car back until early March, not that I this happening that fast. When I get it home I can make up some better drawings though. I actually have a couple pieces stacking up I think I could market so I might be willing to make mounts or work through a vendor that way as well. Time will tell.

I'm a little embarrassed that I don't even have a picture up of the finished front mount. These are as close as i have.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02492.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02485.jpg

rbryant
01-19-2010, 06:55 PM
And here I thought I was going to come in and see some kick a$$ new mounts. I gotta say I'm touched guys. :o

Of course you pick the two pieces that I didn't make drawings for. I would have no problem doing some up but I won't have the car back until early March, not that I this happening that fast. When I get it home I can make up some better drawings though. I actually have a couple pieces stacking up I think I could market so I might be willing to make mounts or work through a vendor that way as well. Time will tell.

I'm a little embarrassed that I don't even have a picture up of the finished front mount. These are as close as i have.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02492.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02485.jpg

Very nice work. I really like the passenger side mount. IN production you could CNC cut a bunch of pieces to give a very clean look. I just wonder if all of the bending of the sheet metal and welding would make it an expensive piece if you were to try and make a bunch of them.

Unfortunately things you make for yourself aren't practical in production. That is why I suggest something that connects to the caravan mount. It wasn't a knock on what you did at all just that it might or might not be practical to make many of them.


Did you just use the stock front mount with your front engine bracket?

Also, I think I am just looking for the front/back connection because I have an lbody which has a weakness in the front radiator mount connection.

-Rich

DodgeZ
01-19-2010, 07:54 PM
http://boostedmopar.com/forums/entry.php?5-GLH-SeRTified

dodgeshadowchik
01-19-2010, 08:23 PM
count me in on this for interest! :)

A.J.
01-19-2010, 08:35 PM
I am interested but I'm probably going to go with the transmission that has the 2.4 bolt pattern. Either out of a neon or the 2.4 Caravan. The front radiator mount won't work for me but I'll definitely need the timing belt side mount.

A.J.

turbovanmanČ
01-19-2010, 09:31 PM
http://boostedmopar.com/forums/entry.php?5-GLH-SeRTified

Wow, alot of work, :nod:

badandy
01-21-2010, 04:08 PM
I'd be all over it in a heartbeat :clap:

cdavis
01-21-2010, 06:12 PM
I'm in also!

zin
01-22-2010, 04:35 PM
I'm either going to be buying a set, or making my own for the Omni at some point... I'm not enthusiastic about doing it myself...

Mike

cdavis
01-22-2010, 06:18 PM
I think if these were available, it would make the decision between a 2.4 and a hybrid setup a lot easier.:thumb:

turboshad
01-22-2010, 06:36 PM
The hardest part about making a production run whould be the differences in all the vehicles. Sure I could make some for 90+ P-bodies but for anything else I would be making fixtures based of the differences between engine mounts for all the car models. It would be hard to have confidence that each set would work without issues which is the only way I would ever want to sell parts.

89scottytona
01-23-2010, 04:54 PM
this is something that will make things alot easier for alot of people like myslef that dont have awesome welding/fabbing skills...

rbryant
01-24-2010, 03:39 PM
I think the front mount is the one to concentrate on. The passenger side can just use a 2.4 stratus mount with a billet adapter.

I actually have one designed that keeps the stock M10 bolts so it would have plenty of strength.

-Rich

1FastCSX289
01-24-2010, 05:38 PM
I think the front mount is the one to concentrate on. The passenger side can just use a 2.4 stratus mount with a billet adapter.

I actually have one designed that keeps the stock M10 bolts so it would have plenty of strength.

-Rich


What "billet adapter" are you using? Is this a custom piece or something you bought? This would be great to add to your line up of 2.4 conversion parts.

rbryant
01-24-2010, 08:34 PM
What "billet adapter" are you using? Is this a custom piece or something you bought? This would be great to add to your line up of 2.4 conversion parts.

Something I have drawn up but haven't made yet.

The advantage is that it uses 2 M10 bolts from the top side and 1 M10 bolt in the middle from the bottom side so they are bigger and stronger than the TMN version that relies on 5/16 bolts. I plan to use socket cap bolts that are countersunk to give a nice clean look.

The spacing is perfect for the lbody. In order to space out the mount for GJKHP cars I have 2 holes in it to bolt on a spacer to make everything just right for those applications.

The middle is also M10 and requires the bottom hole to be enlarged just slightly to 7/16 or so.

Preview:

20013

I can easily have this made if others want to concentrate on the front mount. I don't want to step on toes if someone has a good solution ready to go though...

-Rich

1FastCSX289
01-24-2010, 11:25 PM
Something I have drawn up but haven't made yet.

The advantage is that it uses 2 M10 bolts from the top side and 1 M10 bolt in the middle from the bottom side so they are bigger and stronger than the TMN version that relies on 5/16 bolts. I plan to use socket cap bolts that are countersunk to give a nice clean look.

The spacing is perfect for the lbody. In order to space out the mount for GJKHP cars I have 2 holes in it to bolt on a spacer to make everything just right for those applications.

The middle is also M10 and requires the bottom hole to be enlarged just slightly to 7/16 or so.

Preview:

20013

I can easily have this made if others want to concentrate on the front mount. I don't want to step on toes if someone has a good solution ready to go though...

-Rich

Thats a nice looking piece. I might be interested if my steel plate (read: cheap) plan doesnt work out.

badandy
01-24-2010, 11:52 PM
Something I have drawn up but haven't made yet.

The advantage is that it uses 2 M10 bolts from the top side and 1 M10 bolt in the middle from the bottom side so they are bigger and stronger than the TMN version that relies on 5/16 bolts. I plan to use socket cap bolts that are countersunk to give a nice clean look.

The spacing is perfect for the lbody. In order to space out the mount for GJKHP cars I have 2 holes in it to bolt on a spacer to make everything just right for those applications.

The middle is also M10 and requires the bottom hole to be enlarged just slightly to 7/16 or so.

Preview:

20013

I can easily have this made if others want to concentrate on the front mount. I don't want to step on toes if someone has a good solution ready to go though...

-Rich
You are going to have me thinking 2.4 before I am even finished with my 8v build.

rbryant
01-25-2010, 12:42 AM
You are going to have me thinking 2.4 before I am even finished with my 8v build.

That is what I did to myself... I abandoned the 8V build after I started working on this type of stuff.

-Rich

Frank
01-25-2010, 05:37 AM
I am game for the piece!

DodgeZ
01-25-2010, 06:00 AM
You are going to have me thinking 2.4 before I am even finished with my 8v build.

have srt 2.4 motor will trade for built 8v head

Vigo
01-25-2010, 12:21 PM
None of the pictures at BM worked for me on that link.

rbryant
01-25-2010, 02:12 PM
I am game for the piece!

Ok I may just need a measurement of how thick to make the extra spacer that attaches to it. I know I saw a picture of a spriit with a TMN adapter that needed about 1/2" or spacing.

Does anyone know the difference in spacing between an lbody passenger side mount and a Gbody passenger side mount?

Also, are the 1G and 2G Gbody mounts the same overall spacing?

Thanks,

Rich

"Top Fuel" Bender
01-25-2010, 02:15 PM
have srt 2.4 motor will trade for built 8v head

what's the deal on the motor?

turbovanmanČ
01-25-2010, 02:16 PM
Ok I may just need a measurement of how thick to make the extra spacer that attaches to it. I know I saw a picture of a spriit with a TMN adapter that needed about 1/2" or spacing.

Does anyone know the difference in spacing between an lbody passenger side mount and a Gbody passenger side mount?

Also, are the 1G and 2G Gbody mounts the same overall spacing?

Thanks,

Rich

I thought or seem to remember all 89 and older use the same mount and bracket, passenger side of course. I don't recall L bodies being narrower or it could be but I didn't pay a huge amount of attention, lol.

Frank
01-25-2010, 02:24 PM
I have a 91 Daytona passenger mount assembly I can send you.

turbovanmanČ
01-25-2010, 02:26 PM
I have a 91 Daytona passenger mount assembly I can send you.

90 and newer cars and vans are the same, that I know for sure, :thumb:

DodgeZ
01-25-2010, 03:25 PM
what's the deal on the motor?

It needs a new home. search my username in the for sale forum.

"Top Fuel" Bender
01-25-2010, 03:39 PM
Does anyone know the difference in spacing between an lbody passenger side mount and a Gbody passenger side mount?

Also, are the 1G and 2G Gbody mounts the same overall spacing?

Thanks,

Rich

I can check tonight when I get back to the house
1st and 2nd gen should be the same
the 1st gens weren't any skinnier

rbryant
01-25-2010, 05:30 PM
I can check tonight when I get back to the house
1st and 2nd gen should be the same
the 1st gens weren't any skinnier

Ok that sounds like the easiest method. I think lbody vs. non lbody is the main issue.

Right now I just have a single enlarged head bolt washer to space out the TMN adapter on my GLHS so it is only about 1/8".

I think we can probably get away with using 1" thick 6061. We will probably want to have a little nub of 1/4" or so on the top side so that it has extra frame rail clearance even on the lbody because mine is closer than I like with the TMN adapter so I would like to push that back by 1/8" and get it back on the top side. WE are milling it anyway so it shouldn't add much to the cost.

On the gbody and others we can make like a .5" bolt on spacer (or whatever the measurement turns out being) in addition to that to keep the costs down.

I can still look very clean with the bolt on spacer otherwise we will have to machine 1.5" stock instead of 1" and I would have to carry two different parts in inventory both of which makes things more expensive.

If Bruce has the machine time and people are committed to some we can do a batch. I am doing an anodizing run next week so we can probably include them in that.

I have 3-4 of the stratus brackets that I have grabbed at the junkyard that I can sell but after that people will have to find their own. I think they are about $30 from the dealer and usually go for $20 used so it isn't a big deal.

-Rich

zin
01-25-2010, 09:25 PM
Ok that sounds like the easiest method. I think lbody vs. non lbody is the main issue.

-Rich

Isn't that always the case!

I'm in for one, I'm sure the cost will be reasonable and the quality will be there as well... Curious as to what you had to do on the pass side/stratus bracket mod. I'm getting the feeling that the AWD Omni will have to be a 2.4 swap to boot! Though that's not the evolution I had in mind...

At any rate, the end product will be a 2.4 Omni with AWD, so I might as well get the brackets now...

Mike

rbryant
01-26-2010, 01:32 AM
Isn't that always the case!

I'm in for one, I'm sure the cost will be reasonable and the quality will be there as well... Curious as to what you had to do on the pass side/stratus bracket mod. I'm getting the feeling that the AWD Omni will have to be a 2.4 swap to boot! Though that's not the evolution I had in mind...

At any rate, the end product will be a 2.4 Omni with AWD, so I might as well get the brackets now...

Mike

The passenger side stratus mount is a 2 piece mount. It has 3 bolt holes in it so you just bolt the billet piece to it.

Here is an updated design with some more thought put into it on the billet piece with a picture of a stratus mount from my garage sale page:


20047
(I put a clearance spot on the back bottom because my lbody frame rail is really close there) I also put a recess for the spacer. I think it might be best to stick with 7/8 stock on the adapter with .25" lbody spacers and .5"-.75" spacers for the other cars. The recess is there along with 2 flat bolts so things fit snugly and don't move. I think this is more reasonable than milling down 1.5" stock because it can't overhang the stratus mount or it will hit the frame rail (atleast on the lbody).

20048
20049

My solution puts the two outside bolts from the top in full M10 size so they are both easier to get at and also stronger than using small bolts from the bottom side. The middle hole will have to be drilled out on the mount and the bolt will thread into the billet piece from the bottom.


-Rich

"Top Fuel" Bender
01-26-2010, 02:22 PM
known L-body pass. side mount measuring from the edge of the bolt hole to the thick plate where the through bolt goes
1.025" part # 4295251 bracket

other mount (is there a difference between AA and J,P,G?)
1.845" part # 4295252

so a 3/4" spacer should work good

rbryant
01-26-2010, 03:25 PM
known L-body pass. side mount measuring from the edge of the bolt hole to the thick plate where the through bolt goes
1.025" part # 4295251 bracket

other mount (is there a difference between AA and J,P,G?)
1.845" part # 4295252

so a 3/4" spacer should work good

That is inline (on the far side) of what I thought it would be.

Thanks for taking the measurements. Hopefully they are all the same.

I sent you the CAD files and we can talk about the details after you take a glance at them.

-Rich

Aries_Turbo
01-27-2010, 03:22 PM
with the non-lbody car/van mounts 89 and older are the same, and 90 and newer are different and much larger with the front mount being backwards as the rubber inserts are on the body rather than on the mount attached to the engine/trans.

so if mounts are fabbed up, they are going to have to be made for both styles of cars/van.

now as far as the pass side mount goes, the the plate that the factory mount bolts to, it should be relatively the same height (maybe within 1/4"?) but the mounting holes are spread out farther from the centerline. the mount can be the same as the later if the earlier are 1/4" lower on the body mounting point and use a 1/4" piece of steel bolted to the body bracket with tapped holes for the larger mount to sit on top or something like that.

brian

rbryant
01-27-2010, 03:31 PM
with the non-lbody car/van mounts 89 and older are the same, and 90 and newer are different and much larger with the front mount being backwards as the rubber inserts are on the body rather than on the mount attached to the engine/trans.

so if mounts are fabbed up, they are going to have to be made for both styles of cars/van.

now as far as the pass side mount goes, the the plate that the factory mount bolts to, it should be relatively the same height (maybe within 1/4"?) but the mounting holes are spread out farther from the centerline. the mount can be the same as the later if the earlier are 1/4" lower on the body mounting point and use a 1/4" piece of steel bolted to the body bracket with tapped holes for the larger mount to sit on top or something like that.

brian

Is the motor mount connection actually farther from the engine (spaced farther away from an adapter) on the later cars?

For the actual mount right now I am using a poly bushings lbody mount (I think it might actually be upside down) and not including the stock lbody turbo spacers that normally go below the mount. This makes it perfectly level in the lbody with the TMN adapter.

That upside down offset might be a good way to level things out using existing mounts. Of course the height can be changed easily...

Johnny,

Do you know off hand what the offset in the mount hole is for the lbody passenger side mount from right side up to upside down? Is it the same for the other cars?

-Rich

Aries_Turbo
01-27-2010, 07:44 PM
Is the motor mount connection actually farther from the engine (spaced farther away from an adapter) on the later cars?

im not 100% sure on that. someone that has a 89 and a 90 of the same car could determine that.

2 good measurements to get:

1. vertically from the frame rail top surface to the plane where the mount sets

2. horizontally along the same axis as the swaybar... from the inner plane of the frame rail to the centerline axis between the bolt holes.

im thinking they should be pretty much the same.

Brian

89scottytona
02-26-2010, 10:48 AM
any updates??? could someone explain in more detail about the above needed measurements?? i can run out to my 89 in a few, and can have acess to a 93 tomorrow

rbryant
03-01-2010, 04:23 PM
any updates??? could someone explain in more detail about the above needed measurements?? i can run out to my 89 in a few, and can have acess to a 93 tomorrow

I have given the design of my side mount to Bruce to produce. In order to keep prices reasonable I think it is best that he sell these directly.

If I were involved and took a cut of the profits it would just make them more expensive than they should be.

I didn't have enough design time into them to really merit making money on them anyway.

-Rich

1984rampage
04-28-2010, 08:20 PM
bump! I want a SRT4 shelby charger lol

contraption22
04-11-2012, 01:17 PM
Bump again.... been almost 2 years since the last one.

If a vendor made these, I think it would sell.

Spycker
04-11-2012, 06:05 PM
BUMP, i jumped the 2.4 wagon

1FastCSX289
05-07-2012, 07:52 PM
Bump. Id even replace my home-made mounts. MAKE EM!!

BadAssPerformance
05-07-2012, 08:44 PM
Bump again.... been almost 2 years since the last one.

If a vendor made these, I think it would sell.

Damnit, I cannot find the ones that came with the 2.4L that MoparBoyy got from Pachner...

I have sketches of the ones in my car but not sure how they would fit in an L-body

glhs727
05-07-2012, 09:37 PM
well, I have set made for a 2.4 shadow, and I will be putting a smilar set-up in an l-body soon, I would be willing to do some if there was interest. Plus we have a plasma cutter and can tig and mig weld as well, so I wouldn't have to farm out much if anything which might make the product quicker and cheaper to produce. So if anyone would be interested, send me a PM with your info and I will start a list. Once I get at least 5 people for a specific platform, I'd make a batch

DodgeZ
05-07-2012, 09:45 PM
well, I have set made for a 2.4 shadow, and I will be putting a smilar set-up in an l-body soon, I would be willing to do some if there was interest. Plus we have a plasma cutter and can tig and mig weld as well, so I wouldn't have to farm out much if anything which might make the product quicker and cheaper to produce. So if anyone would be interested, send me a PM with your info and I will start a list. Once I get at least 5 people for a specific platform, I'd make a batch

I'd do a front L-body with a neon 3speed.

contraption22
05-08-2012, 08:36 AM
My thoughts are that the trickiest part on an L-body at least, is the passenger side mount. If you use an auto trans, or a manual trans from the 2.2/2.5 family then you can use the trans mount from the older car.

Fore-aft movement can be controlled with torque struts, like the 2nd gen PL bodies and PT's, which should be easy to fabricate.

glhs727
05-08-2012, 09:22 AM
yea, i think doing the l-body first would be best since it will be the one with the least space to work with......

turboshad
05-08-2012, 11:30 AM
I will be making a set for an 88 Daytona and would like to develop them to be as "generic" as possible so minimal parts need to be changed for the different bodies and years. The biggest problem for me is having an engine and all the cars to make sure they fit. The ones for the Daytona will be for an SRT4 engine. Do people want them more for direct SRT4 swaps or for the NA 2.4?

contraption22
05-08-2012, 11:31 AM
Do people want them more for direct SRT4 swaps or for the NA 2.4?

Are the blocks different in that respect?

turboshad
05-08-2012, 11:51 AM
The mounts definitely are, but now that you mention it I think the bosses at the engine are the same at least for the passenger side. I don't know about the front.

BadAssPerformance
05-08-2012, 01:25 PM
I will be making a set for an 88 Daytona and would like to develop them to be as "generic" as possible so minimal parts need to be changed for the different bodies and years. The biggest problem for me is having an engine and all the cars to make sure they fit. The ones for the Daytona will be for an SRT4 engine. Do people want them more for direct SRT4 swaps or for the NA 2.4?

Mayeb we could swap mounts at SDAC to see if they fit the other cars? LOL! My design can be pretty universal for the most part as it uses the stock pass site mount perch and a modified trans mount, but since I rotated the motor forward (turbo clearance) the oil pan sits a little lower. I rotated the motor forward about the axle centerline cuz I didn't want to change that geometry. I got pics.

I orignially had the motor in with OhioRob's mount that MoparBoyy had with the engine... and it bolted up with a stock trans mount, but not enough firewall clearance for anything more than a startus manifold.. so the L and G were close enough... I got pics.


Are the blocks different in that respect?

The original '97 2.4L and the current '01 2.4Lmount up identically to the block bosses. I don't think the turbo block is any different with the pass side bosses?

Frank
05-09-2012, 10:54 AM
I would be game for a set for my 91 Daytona... I think something that move the engine between stock and where JT's is at would be ideal.

turboshad
05-10-2012, 05:53 PM
I kept an 11deg rear tilt to my block, which I think is pretty close to factory, and I was able to fit the Holset in with no massaging necessary.

BadAssPerformance
05-10-2012, 06:43 PM
I kept an 11deg rear tilt to my block, which I think is pretty close to factory, and I was able to fit the Holset in with no massaging necessary.

Cool.

Which exhaust manifold?

Where is your axle/diff axis centerline compared to stock?

turboshad
05-14-2012, 10:37 AM
I run a custom "equal length" header that puts the turbo up at the top and pretty close to the head. I have no idea where the axle center line is but it must be close or at least all right since I've only broken one axle.

www.turbogod.com
05-15-2012, 08:05 PM
http://voice.htmlplanet.com/24enginemouts5.jpg
Ok.. I have had a batch for the l-body rampage, charger, omni made for front and side mount. They can be prewelded or just in pieces.. Cost me way more than i thought originally.. checkout www.srt4omni.com (http://www.srt4omni.com) I can make a set for the daytona and shadow but first need some return on this first 10 sets i made.. Thinking $100 shipped each mount (add $35 each mount to weld and clean and paint) . I cant see these breaking.. 1/4 inch steel! U will need your own bolts..
http://voice.htmlplanet.com/24enginemouts7.jpg

YOU CAN REMOVE THE MOUNT WHILE IT IS IN THE CAR TO GET TO TIMING BELT!!!:eyebrows:

If u know of anything else for doing the sway of a 2.4 in our old school cars let me know i want to post it to www.srt4omni.com (http://www.srt4omni.com)

Note I have the other set i made that is the rough looking mounts for $80 each shipped if want to save a little..

contraption22
05-21-2012, 10:09 PM
Ok.. I have had a batch for the l-body rampage, charger, omni made for front and side mount. They can be prewelded or just in pieces.. Cost me way more than i thought originally.. checkout www.srt4omni.com (http://www.srt4omni.com) I can make a set for the daytona and shadow but first need some return on this first 10 sets i made.. Thinking $100 shipped each mount (add $35 each mount to weld and clean and paint) . I cant see these breaking.. 1/4 inch steel! U will need your own bolts..


YOU CAN REMOVE THE MOUNT WHILE IT IS IN THE CAR TO GET TO TIMING BELT!!!:eyebrows:

If u know of anything else for doing the sway of a 2.4 in our old school cars let me know i want to post it to www.srt4omni.com (http://www.srt4omni.com)

Note I have the other set i made that is the rough looking mounts for $80 each shipped if want to save a little..

So that's $270 for the passenger side and front mounts? Does the stamped piece replace the heavy cast OE piece on the side of the block?
Any modification to the vehicle frame required?

Aries_Turbo
05-22-2012, 05:27 PM
does the mount deal with the difference in dowel locations when using a 568/523 with a 2.4L

do you have any plans to make one that does?

brian

contraption22
10-16-2012, 11:47 AM
Just to update all. I ordered a set from www.srt4omni.com (http://www.srt4omni.com) a few months back but have not had the opportunity to try them out yet. They do look sturdy.

Captain Chaos
06-07-2013, 11:41 AM
Did anyone ever start making these for say an 88 G body?

GLHS444
06-13-2013, 07:01 PM
Wow TurboGod...you've been busy.. :-)
I see why we haven't seen ya in a bit at the Big Apple...

Those look nice and beefy..

strang3majik
06-14-2013, 05:12 PM
Wow TurboGod...you've been busy.. :-)
I see why we haven't seen ya in a bit at the Big Apple...

Those look nice and beefy..

That was over a year ago...lol


But is a special mount needed for a 555 if running the 2.4? I'm confused :(

moparmorrell
12-18-2013, 11:03 PM
any chance there is still some of these mounts left for the omni swap. if so please let me know I would love purchase a set

contraption22
12-19-2013, 12:19 AM
any chance there is still some of these mounts left for the omni swap. if so please let me know I would love purchase a set

Check out srt4omni.com