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Captain Chaos
01-04-2010, 01:00 PM
I was on their site reading up on the stuff but wanted to ask a few questions of those who have first hand experience with it.

I want to use it on the underside of my Aries, it says not to use over paint, I really don't want to strip the whole underside of the car as most of it could probably be handled with a wire brush. There is no perforation, its all just simple paint flake and rust showing through. How much would I need for a complete underbody prep on the wagon?

Any tips or suggestions are appreciated.:thumb:

t3rse
01-04-2010, 02:25 PM
I've used Rustbullet which is a competing product...you must get all loose material off. It can adhere to anything but if what it adheres to isn't attached to the body it isn't going to stay there. I used it over paint with no issues but I did scuff the paint. I also used it over fiber glass.

contraption22
01-04-2010, 02:25 PM
For best results, follow the instructions to a "T". They do not recommend using it over paint because if rust exists under the paint, it will continue to spread.

Captain Chaos
01-04-2010, 02:43 PM
For best results, follow the instructions to a "T". They do not recommend using it over paint because if rust exists under the paint, it will continue to spread.

Gotcha. Thats what I was thinking/afraid of. If I have to strip the underside of the car I think I might as well repaint it with automotive paint.:thumb:

iTurbo
01-04-2010, 03:14 PM
You need to remove all the paint. Wire brush the loose rust off and prep with Metal Ready. Even if there is still some rust, you can POR-15 over that. POR-15 stands for "Paint Over Rust" and it sticks very good to seasoned surfaces as long as you get the loose junk out of the way first. It doesn't stick all that great to smooth shiny metal so you don't have to try too hard. Avoid painting it on galvanized surfaces such as the K-frame or gas tank.

Captain Chaos
01-04-2010, 03:19 PM
You need to remove all the paint. Wire brush the loose rust off and prep with Metal Ready. Even if there is still some rust, you can POR-15 over that. POR-15 stands for "Paint Over Rust" and it sticks very good to seasoned surfaces as long as you get the loose junk out of the way first. It doesn't stick all that great to smooth shiny metal so you don't have to try too hard. Avoid painting it on galvanized surfaces such as the K-frame or gas tank.

Here's what I'm trying to stop. Its pretty much in various places front to back. I thought if I hit it with a wire brush like for removing slag and prep the surface the POR-15 would be for me.

iTurbo
01-04-2010, 03:29 PM
POR-15 would be great for that if you ask me. After making sure all the paint is gone, wire brush it, rinse, Metal Ready, rinse again, dry completely, and paint right over it. I haven't done any POR-15 on the car itself or frame, but I have done all the sub frames and chassis parts on my GLH and SL. I plan to patch the holes in my SL's spare tire well with silver por-15 (higher metal content) and their fiberglass mesh.

Captain Chaos
01-04-2010, 03:32 PM
POR-15 would be great for that if you ask me. After making sure all the paint is gone, wire brush it, rinse, Metal Ready, rinse again, dry completely, and paint right over it. I haven't done any POR-15 on the car itself or frame, but I have done all the sub frames and chassis parts on my GLH and SL. I plan to patch the holes in my SL's spare tire well with silver por-15 (higher metal content) and their fiberglass mesh.

Thanks. I saw the silver and thought I'd use it to more closely match the color of the car. Didn't realize it was a performance difference.

Juggy
01-04-2010, 08:13 PM
Here's what I'm trying to stop. Its pretty much in various places front to back. I thought if I hit it with a wire brush like for removing slag and prep the surface the POR-15 would be for me.

if it looks like that underneath the car, what does it look like underneath the carpet???

personally i like to chop out rust. my car was still solid but there was pinholes everywhere in the driver floor pan. i could have por'd over it all and kept it original but id rather be safe then sorrry. there are quite a few horror stories about POR and that is with people who take it to the extreme thinking that POR is going to solve all of their rust problems, when in fact the car is rusting away between the paint.

i wire brushed the entire floor pan, removed all seam sealer that i could, and sprayed the por with a gun. i had to thin it out some, that stuff is way thick.

most rust occurs from inside the vehicle due to wet feet and water sitting and puddling with no where to go. if your going to do the bottom of the car, might as well see what things look like under the carpet. i bet ya its alot worse then what u seem too see from the underside. my L looked MINT underneath when i purchased it, but i made sure to lift the carpet and sure enuff you could see the pan starting to go.

Juggy
01-04-2010, 08:14 PM
For best results, follow the instructions to a "T".

especially the part about getting it on your skin :lol:

iTurbo
01-04-2010, 08:22 PM
+1. Next time I break out the can I'm going to get some heavy duty latex gloves (Big Stretch from NAPA) and duct tape them to some long sleeves. If you get it on your skin you will wear it for the next couple weeks.

fishcleaner
01-04-2010, 10:23 PM
You need to remove all the paint. Wire brush the loose rust off and prep with Metal Ready. Even if there is still some rust, you can POR-15 over that. POR-15 stands for "Paint Over Rust" and it sticks very good to seasoned surfaces as long as you get the loose junk out of the way first. It doesn't stick all that great to smooth shiny metal so you don't have to try too hard. Avoid painting it on galvanized surfaces such as the K-frame or gas tank.
+1 it sticks to rust only, the browner the better, it also cures by humidity so once you open the can, use it up or dump some out and cover the can immediatly. A cheaper alternative is marine trailer paint.

ajakeski
01-04-2010, 10:26 PM
I've used this stuff for years and it works great. If you coat a surface that will be exposed to sunlight, make sure you paint over the POR with another paint. POR doesn't like UV.
Maybe it doesn't like garlic either.

LaserXT1986
01-06-2010, 07:08 AM
I commented in another thread on POR-15 back in July of last year. I'll copy what I said, there:

{{Just a heads up, your wasting time with POR-15.

7-8 years ago, the stuff was the best, period. I would have been a spokesperson for the stuff.

Within the last 4-5 years, it sucks. Trust me, I sunk a LOT of money into the product and have a rusty car to show for it. And before anyone starts questioning if I prepped the metal right, etc. YES, I did. I can take pictures of the stuff FLAKING off....bear in mind the car hasn't moved in 3 years and was covered after applying the POR. If you search around the forum you will see many others who back my comments on POR as of late.

Absolute sh!t product, period. }}

I have a lot of experience prepping metal, as I spray 2 part polyurethane finishes on a weekly basis. I am well aware of the "particulars" that POR 15 requires prior to coating as I never had a problem with it when I first used it. I'm telling you, that stuff is not the same as it was in 2001-2002. I wish you the best of luck, but as I said in that post, if you search around these forums you'll see others who back what I say, and have better choices for rust repair than POR-15.

Captain Chaos
01-06-2010, 09:58 AM
if it looks like that underneath the car, what does it look like underneath the carpet???

personally i like to chop out rust. my car was still solid but there was pinholes everywhere in the driver floor pan. i could have por'd over it all and kept it original but id rather be safe then sorrry. there are quite a few horror stories about POR and that is with people who take it to the extreme thinking that POR is going to solve all of their rust problems, when in fact the car is rusting away between the paint.

i wire brushed the entire floor pan, removed all seam sealer that i could, and sprayed the por with a gun. i had to thin it out some, that stuff is way thick.

most rust occurs from inside the vehicle due to wet feet and water sitting and puddling with no where to go. if your going to do the bottom of the car, might as well see what things look like under the carpet. i bet ya its alot worse then what u seem too see from the underside. my L looked MINT underneath when i purchased it, but i made sure to lift the carpet and sure enuff you could see the pan starting to go.
:o :eek:

Mopar318
01-06-2010, 11:26 AM
Chassis saver is king. POR-15 is ----, as mentioned above. At least that is what multiple resto shops of have told.

Mopar318
01-06-2010, 11:30 AM
:o :eek:

dont worry, thats not the case are these parts. The bottom of the pans will rust out from salty roads, way quicker than any standing water in the floor pans will.

Your rust deosnt look that pad at all. But come see what Im used to. Indiana uses so much salt its not even funny. I guess its cheaper than actaully removing snow physically.

Captain Chaos
01-06-2010, 11:48 AM
Chassis saver is king. POR-15 is ----, as mentioned above. At least that is what multiple resto shops of have told.

I'm not hooked on POR-15 just what I had heard of. I looked on Silver Bullets website and I'll check out this Chassis Saver you mentioned. I'm not wanting to get in a full blown undercarriage resto ATM just trying to stop what is already starting.:thumb:

tsiconquest88
01-06-2010, 12:04 PM
is that pic of the floorboard somewhere? that looks like it might be a soft spot. did you try touching it? Looks very weak and more than just surface rust/chipping paint. Not trying to scare ya lol but you should take a good feeler on that, push on it with a screwdriver or soemthing, i can say theres a good chance you will go right through that.

Captain Chaos
01-06-2010, 12:11 PM
is that pic of the floorboard somewhere? that looks like it might be a soft spot. did you try touching it? Looks very weak and more than just surface rust/chipping paint. Not trying to scare ya lol but you should take a good feeler on that, push on it with a screwdriver or soemthing, i can say theres a good chance you will go right through that.

Its still solid. Its the only pic I have on my computer. The PO blew a cam plug and the whole underside of the car is covered in oil and it seems to make the rust look much worse than it is.

tsiconquest88
01-06-2010, 12:21 PM
ahhhh ok. Just thought i would make the suggestion. Your situtation is probably a good thing then!! lol sprayed with oil is never bad underneath the car haha

Captain Chaos
01-06-2010, 12:28 PM
ahhhh ok. Just thought i would make the suggestion. Your situtation is probably a good thing then!! lol sprayed with oil is never bad underneath the car haha

Yeah just a too late in the game. I was told it was a rust free car, hardly but I'll work through it.:thumb:

tsiconquest88
01-06-2010, 12:31 PM
hey, thats all you can do. I put a deposit on a RT and paying the rest when taxes come in, and its pretty good to go but 2 small surface rust spots so im getting the sample kit from por-15 it has the small can of por, the marine clean and prep for like 20 bucks. Will do wut i need it for lol.

Juggy
01-06-2010, 12:43 PM
:o :eek:


dont worry, thats not the case are these parts. The bottom of the pans will rust out from salty roads, way quicker than any standing water in the floor pans will.

Your rust deosnt look that pad at all. But come see what Im used to. Indiana uses so much salt its not even funny. I guess its cheaper than actaully removing snow physically.

salty snow that gets in the car from feet will def murder the pan from inside out. i dont drive my car in the winter,but im sure it has seen alot of snow in its day as it spent its life in OH and MI.

wel salt to hell in windsor and surrounding area as well. but they used sand further up north. salt is used because it is very cheap being that we have our own salt mine WINDSOR salt :)

most cars here will rot from inside out. i guess down in FL yes, the pan would prolly go from outside in, especially if u live near the shore.

dodgeman87
01-06-2010, 02:24 PM
Hey I used stuff called " Miracle Paint" which is the equivalent of Por 15. I put in a spray bottle, put goggles on, used gloves, had the wind at my back and sprayed the complete bottom of my Lebaron GTS. Turned out good, but be warned USE goggles so that this bad stuff does not get in your eyes.
Oh yeah if you get on your skin, figure two days for it to come off.

Captain Chaos
01-06-2010, 02:47 PM
salty snow that gets in the car from feet will def murder the pan from inside out. i dont drive my car in the winter,but im sure it has seen alot of snow in its day as it spent its life in OH and MI.

wel salt to hell in windsor and surrounding area as well. but they used sand further up north. salt is used because it is very cheap being that we have our own salt mine WINDSOR salt :)

most cars here will rot from inside out. i guess down in FL yes, the pan would prolly go from outside in, especially if u live near the shore.

It was a MI car originally. Another fact I was unaware of before hand.:(