Reeves' OMNI GLH-R Update!

[roachjuice]

Bad a$$

[Shadow]

Im looking forward to the official end of the ported stocker myth :P

What myth is that?

[Shadow]

So if no secrets what the F was your 60's!!!!!??????
























:)

[onerippinturbo2]

I think it's because Reeves doesn't want people to know that he really has an SBC 355 in the hatch. he actually has a bone stock t1 log motor in the hatch powering that rocket....

[Khajjathefang]

What myth is that?

The one that drug the tube header thread out for 41 pages. :lol:

Actually I'll probably have to go all through it again since my buddy wants to know what size primaries I want :P

[Shadow]

Still don't get it?:confused: The header thread got dragged out because that's what ppl like to do on the forums, here themselve talk! lol You can make 600+WHP through a ported stocker, you can make more through a header!

So still don't get what the "myth" is? :)

[contraption22]

The myth is that a ported stock cast manifold work just as well or better than any tubular header.

[tryingbe]

The myth is that a ported stock cast manifold work just as well or better than any tubular header.

Tell myth busters that.

[Khajjathefang]

The myth is that a ported stock cast manifold work just as well or better than any tubular header.

And therefore not worth the time, effort, and expense....whatevs assuming it works out I'm getting mine for material cost :D

[Shadow]

The myth is that a ported stock cast manifold work just as well or better than any tubular header.

Now there's a blanket statement! lol Funny that ppl just Don't get that Everything is Relative!!!!

Funnier yet, I've Always stated that a proper header will make more power on the Charger, yet the Charger is prob the single reason that so called Myth exists! lol

[Khajjathefang]

That's highly likely. Lol

[Shadow]

One Very important piece of info to keep in mind, then I will refrain from jacking this thread any more.

A cast manifold or unequil length header can (and usually will) give a Broader powerband. Also, up to 500WHP and depending on your other supporting mods you may Not gain if you don't have a really well designed header and a really well thought out set-up!

So there's lots to consider and Most will go backwards because they haven't thought things out well enough. (just bolting on parts and hoping something good will happen! lol)

This is why I haven't changed to a header yet. I want to make sure I have exhausted every other avenue first (knowing the mani isn't a Cork, but there are gains to be had with a header) then swap to a header and both dyno and track test BTB with drive pr readings to see exactly what was gained and what (if anything) was lost! ;)

[turbovanman²]

The myth is that a ported stock cast manifold work just as well or better than any tubular header.

Cough BS cough. Guess you didn't read the header thread very closely, :(

[Shadow]

Cough BS cough. Guess you didn't read the header thread very closely, :(

Exactly, I believe Matt was the only one with that opinion! lol

[contraption22]

Cough BS cough. Guess you didn't read the header thread very closely, :(

Nope. I have a job.

[turbovanman²]

Nope. I have a job.

So why are you posting then? :D

Edit, I think Shadow and I read it wrong, are you saying the header is better or the ported stocker is just as good?

[black86glhs]

Still don't get it?:confused: The header thread got dragged out because that's what ppl like to do on the forums, here themselve talk! lol You can make 600+WHP through a ported stocker, you can make more through a header!

So still don't get what the "myth" is? :)Really Bob, you don't say!!! LOL:D

[Shadow]

Really Bob, you don't say!!! LOL:D

Case in point! :p

[Khajjathefang]

So why are you posting then? :D

Edit, I think Shadow and I read it wrong, are you saying the header is better or the ported stocker is just as good?

Actually, i think you were the only one who read it wrong. :P

[contraption22]

So why are you posting then? :D

Edit, I think Shadow and I read it wrong, are you saying the header is better or the ported stocker is just as good?

He asked what the myth was. I told him what the myth was. I didn't put my two cents into it at all.

[turbovanman²]

Actually, i think you were the only one who read it wrong. :P

Nope, Rob did too, :D


He asked what the myth was. I told him what the myth was. I didn't put my two cents into it at all.

I know its your 2 cents, just make sure we are reading it right.

[Shadow]

Nope, Rob did too, :D



Sorry but, Your on your own this time bro! lol

[turbovanman²]

Sorry but, Your on your own this time bro! lol

You agreed with me, :D

[Shadow]

You agreed with me, :D

I agreed that he didn't read the thread very well, and apparently, so did he. Had zero to do with understanding his deffinition of "the myth".

BTW, "the myth" is only going to get worse now............

[Khajjathefang]

I agreed that he didn't read the thread very well, and apparently, so did he. Had zero to do with understanding his deffinition of "the myth".

BTW, "the myth" is only going to get worse now............

Why, what did you do? lol

[Reeves]

So if no secrets what the F was your 60's!!!!!?????? :)

Generally mid 1.6's lately.

I raced at Import Face Off this past weekend. Was running 10.5's and 10.6's. A little warmer out, but I'm surprised to have had it slow down that much. But I also had to take more fuel out, so that makes sense that the air wasn't as good.

Was spraying a 50 shot in 4th in the eliminations to try it out once again. Gained zero ET, but went up to 138 to 139 mph!

Also attempted 40 psi boost again....same results....no advantage over 35 psi boost. May change to headstuds once again with some pro advice. Hopefully that will help with the still unexplained overheating. I still think it's the head lifting.

[black86glhs]

Hey now. I'm gonna close this thread if you guys don't stop mucking it up.:p




Like I have any authority around here....LOL.

[Shadow]

Generally mid 1.6's lately.

I raced at Import Face Off this past weekend. Was running 10.5's and 10.6's. A little warmer out, but I'm surprised to have had it slow down that much. But I also had to take more fuel out, so that makes sense that the air wasn't as good.

Was spraying a 50 shot in 4th in the eliminations to try it out once again. Gained zero ET, but went up to 138 to 139 mph!

Also attempted 40 psi boost again....same results....no advantage over 35 psi boost. May change to headstuds once again with some pro advice. Hopefully that will help with the still unexplained overheating. I still think it's the head lifting.

That's some nice mph. Does the drive pressure change a lot from 35-40psi?

[Pat]

Generally mid 1.6's lately.

I raced at Import Face Off this past weekend. Was running 10.5's and 10.6's. A little warmer out, but I'm surprised to have had it slow down that much. But I also had to take more fuel out, so that makes sense that the air wasn't as good.

Was spraying a 50 shot in 4th in the eliminations to try it out once again. Gained zero ET, but went up to 138 to 139 mph!

Also attempted 40 psi boost again....same results....no advantage over 35 psi boost. May change to headstuds once again with some pro advice. Hopefully that will help with the still unexplained overheating. I still think it's the head lifting.

If you're going to hit any spray, you have to hit it early in the run to really see ET drops. A 4th gear squirt generally will only get you mph. If you can get it to hook early in the run, you'll see much more of an ET drop.

Awesome work though! That thing is moving!

[Reaper1]

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/2012-07-12180508.jpg

I saw this and then I did this:

http://i39.tinypic.com/xqchsp.gif

[Shadow]

Next to Warrens (and I don't mean anything neg when I say that!) that is the nicest header I have seen for one of these mtrs!

It actually reminds me of Warrens header when I look at it's design :)

[turbovanman²]

Next to Warrens (and I don't mean anything neg when I say that!) that is the nicest header I have seen for one of these mtrs!

It actually reminds me of Warrens header when I look at it's design :)

Wonder where Reeves got the design from? :confused: :bolt: :lol:

[Reaper1]

We need a "like" button!! LOL

[contraption22]

If you're going to hit any spray, you have to hit it early in the run to really see ET drops. A 4th gear squirt generally will only get you mph. If you can get it to hook early in the run, you'll see much more of an ET drop.

Agreed, my biggest gains with spray were right out of the hole.

[Reeves]

I wasn't looking for ET's as much as I was being able to cross the finish line before the other guy.......and it worked for 1 run FOR SURE!!! LOL

[8valves]

Next to Warrens (and I don't mean anything neg when I say that!) that is the nicest header I have seen for one of these mtrs!

It actually reminds me of Warrens header when I look at it's design :)

Yup, it has some strong similarities, apart from being a 4-1 rather than a tri-y, and the external gate setup, and Tial housing of course. Warren wanted to utilize the swingvalve type design and I hate them, so there were big differences needed for that jazz.

If it's eyeballed correctly, Reeve's existing downpipe should bolt up to that one. Guess we will see some year, haha!

[Shadow]

Wierd, I've had Great results with internal gates! Never a problem. External gates on the other hand I've had to change springs and fart around trying to hold boost stable.

Just goes to show you, two different ppl with different experience = different results! lol

[8valves]

Wierd, I've had Great results with internal gates! Never a problem. External gates on the other hand I've had to change springs and fart around trying to hold boost stable.

Just goes to show you, two different ppl with different experience = different results! lol

Yup. On turbo systems I build and tune on an AEM EMS, I can control a car to hit and maintain within .1-.2 psig from start line to finish, based on vehicle speed as an input. Even my co-workers 35R Evo maintains 18 psi +/- .5psig while sitting on the starting line with anti-lag at 6600 rpm. As soon as the car moves it starts tapering in control to wherever we want. Yahoo! :)

[Shadow]

Yup. On turbo systems I build and tune on an AEM EMS, I can control a car to hit and maintain within .1-.2 psig from start line to finish, based on vehicle speed as an input. Even my co-workers 35R Evo maintains 18 psi +/- .5psig while sitting on the starting line with anti-lag at 6600 rpm. As soon as the car moves it starts tapering in control to wherever we want. Yahoo! :)

Well that explains it right there.lol I'm only at the " +/- 1/2lb boost control " down the track. Just haven't got to the "crazy control" level yet! :)

[8valves]

Well that explains it right there.lol I'm only at the " +/- 1/2lb boost control " down the track. Just haven't got to the "crazy control" level yet! :)

Yeah, it becomes a lot bigger of an ordeal when the car is making anywhere from 50-100 WHP per psi when you're in a traction limited situation. It was never a concern of mine in the older TM stuff back in the day, but it could help guys like you and Reeves to get some better control of the short times.

[Reeves]

Raced the crap out of it again this weekend at the Mopar Southern Classic in Clay City, KY.

Hightlights:

In the finals on Saturday night my opponent red lit. I saw the red light before I left, but decided to run it all out anyway, as it had cooled off a lot, and I had trouble on Friday night with moisture on the big end (dew skating I call it....LOL). Well about half track I lost a ton of power. Let out and coasted off the track and back to pits. Knew it was probably an intercooler hose blown. Couldn't find anything wrong, kept looking around, and found a big split in one of the welds on the intercooler. Dang. Grabbed the JB Weld for a second....realized I had no time for it to set, and also it was old and dried up. Beat the split back together as much as possible. Changed my dial from a 10.74 to a 15.47 and drove back up to the staging lanes. While sitting in the staging lanes, I started thinking. Hmm....I might get a little boost still, and will probably run better than 15's......so I jumped out and changed my dial to 13.47. You should have seen the people's faces watching me drop 2 seconds off my dial. LOL. I ended up lining up with a buddy of mine (just chance) and was excited to give him the win to keep him in. We were already in the quarter finals and I'd like to see him keep going. I ended up treeing the hell out him, beating him down past the 1/8th, so I shifted in 4th and let out. Still waiting for him to pass me......come on.....come on.....what is taking him so long???? WE get the time slips and I WON! By accident!!!! I ran a 13.48 on my 13.47 dial! Wow and WTF at the same time! 6 psi boost and LET OUT in 4th and rolled through the lights at 80mph. I thought my buddy was gonna be PISSED but he just laughed his arse off and starting making Dos Equis quotes "He once tried to lose a race.....and still won!" I felt like Angelo for a short moment.

Next pass was against 1MeanMini's dad in his A100 van with a 440. BAD AZZ VAN!!! LOVE that thing! Runs mid 12's and pulls the left front wheel at launch. I ended up red lighting by .004. :( I had fun and still made it to the semi's....so it was time for a blue ribbon.

On Sunday I decided to race my tow vehicle instead. I've never raced it before. Went 14.835 and 14.831 in the time trials with a pretty crappy light. I made it to the quarter finals with the truck and broke out with a 14.77.

Great weekend of racing once again, and nothing major broke. Here's video my friend took of my OMNI crossing the 1/4 mile mark. Make sure your sound is turned up....it's the best part!:


http://youtu.be/VihKXzs9T6o

[cordes]

Man that thing sounds like a jet!

[R/T]

[QUOTE=Reeves;953119]kept looking around, and found a big split in one of the welds on the intercooler. Dang. Grabbed [QUOTE]

So you blew a weld on the intake.....(sorta!) :lol:

[turbovanman²]

You guys have so much fun, :hail:

Love that sound, sounds like a jet plane, :nod:

[Shadow]

Great story James! I love when $hit like that happens, the Most unlikely outcome and Bam, there it is!

Like they say, the only thing stranger than fiction..........

So, how much boost does it take to blow up an I/C? :)

[Reaper1]

How much boost does it take to blow up and intercooler? 1...2...3..spike....the world may never know! LOL

[Reeves]

Somewhere between 35 and 40

[BadAssPerformance]

Awesome vid! :thumb:

Congrats on the blue ribbon! :nod:

[ohiorob]

hearing about all the racing you've done lately makes me whish I should of throwin the car back together.
I still can't get over the fact that you run stock head bolts" incredible"

[turbo2point2]

Great times James! You sure had your share of racing this year :thumb: :nod:

[5DIGITS]

I watched that video multiple times - car sounds great !

[BadFastGTC]

Now THAT is funny!


[QUOTE=Reeves;953119]kept looking around, and found a big split in one of the welds on the intercooler. Dang. Grabbed [QUOTE]

So you blew a weld on the intake.....(sorta!) :lol:

[Reeves]

Sure Homey!

The first lawn tractor battery I had lasted me like 5 or 6 years. I was super impressed and decided that lawn tractor batteries worked. After that, I have been through 3 or 4 more lawn tractor batteries...1 PER YEAR. I got tired of this, and also their reserve capacity is sheot, meaning if I left the fan on for a few minutes after a run, the battery may or may not start the car.

This season I decided to try to find something different, hopefully without having to change my custom battery box and mounting location (I was kinda in a hurry to get the car going). I looked at Braille and Odyssey as alternatives, but they don't seem to have very good reviews when mounted in a high heat area (like engine compartment). Also they are a lot of $$$ to be gambling with.

So I started looking into other batteries. I read good reviews on Interstate lawn tractor batteries, although pricey and hard to find. Also read some good reviews on Deka lawn tractor batteries. Actually read good things on all Interstate and Deka batteries.

It seems Interstate batteries are only available at select Interstate battery dealers, which I found a few in my area. But Deka is a sell out (like Exide, etc) and sells to O'Reilly autoparts under the Super Start brand name. Cool.

I still couldn't find a good reserve capacity listing for any lawn tractor batteries, so I started looking into other batteries that were the same size or similar to a lawn tractor battery (I think the size code is UL1).

Here's where it gets good.....a Mazda Miata battery is the EXACT same size as a lawn tractor battery. AND is a AGM battery from the factory! Cool!

So, started reading Mazda forums and other reviews I could find. It seems the best battery to have is the orginal equipment Panasonic AGM battery for a Miata, as guys were getting 8+ years (!!) out of them. So, started searching for them, and they seem obsolete. If you order one from Mazda now you get a lead-acid replacement.

So, started reading reviews for OTHER batteries. Most are lead-acid replacements, but in the lawn tractor battery size group. Most had bad reviews.

Here's where it gets good again....found a few places online that specialize in AGM batteries for the Miata, but they were kinda pricey and it was gonna take a few days to get one.

THEN, found that O'Reilly's near me had one in stock and it is a Super Start brand (Deka) AND is a AGM battery! All for $105! So did a quick search for a review on it, and found a review with lots of pics where a guy really liked it. So I went and got one.

Big reserve capacity, big cranking amps, AGM, and a lawn tractor size......sweet!

The part number at O'Reilly's for this battery is MIATA. No joke. The parts guy couldn't even believe the part number.

Put it in and it fire right up!

EDIT:
You must make sure your charging voltage is at or under 14.6V with your alternator, and with any other charger you make hook to it.

Never did update this. New MIATA battery FTMFW! Can leave water pump and fan on for a LONG time in the pits, and the car still starts just fine.

[contraption22]

Awesome. Thanks!

[black86glhs]

This is good news. I need a new battery for mine and was wanting to keep it small to open up a little room. I'll have to look into this.:hail: Thanks for the update.

[turbomini]

Next pass was against 1MeanMini's dad in his A100 van with a 440. BAD AZZ VAN!!! LOVE that thing! Runs mid 12's and pulls the left front wheel at launch. I ended up red lighting by .004. :( I had fun and still made it to the semi's....so it was time for a blue ribbon.]

thats turbomini lol but close :D and my dad has a few of your runs on film if i can figure out how to get the tapes on the computer i'll have to post them, also find anything out on the t1 2.5?

[Shadow]

How much did that Miata battery weigh?

[Reeves]

thats turbomini lol but close :D and my dad has a few of your runs on film if i can figure out how to get the tapes on the computer i'll have to post them, also find anything out on the t1 2.5?

Cool. Would love to see some vids!

Yeah, I dug around a little. I'll be up at the barn tomorrow, so I'll look some more then. Want to trade for a 2.2?


How much did that Miata battery weigh?

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?44482-Reeves-OMNI-GLH-R-Update!&p=912414&viewfull=1#post912414

[turbomini]

Cool. Would love to see some vids!

Yeah, I dug around a little. I'll be up at the barn tomorrow, so I'll look some more then. Want to trade for a 2.2?

are you wanting a t2 or a n/a 2.2 common block that i have? i only have 2 2.2's that are able to run, the others need some work, or just gone threw.

[Reeves]

are you wanting a t2 or a n/a 2.2 common block that i have? i only have 2 2.2's that are able to run, the others need some work, or just gone threw.
2.2 common block. Turbo or non doesn't matter. Doesn't matter if it needs work either.

[turbomini]

ok i would be willing to do that and if you want we can do the parts i gave you when you were here for the transporting the motors?

now i have 2 2.2's one is the 90 omni motor and the other is a 86 or 87 2.2 t1 which would you prefer?

[Reeves]

ok i would be willing to do that and if you want we can do the parts i gave you when you were here for the transporting the motors?

now i have 2 2.2's one is the 90 omni motor and the other is a 86 or 87 2.2 t1 which would you prefer?

90 Omni motor please.

[turbomini]

no problem if you wanna text me when your gonna be up this way let me know i will make sure i am not working that day, or we'll have to do it kinda early,

[speedfreek500]

Any updates yet?

[Rampage16V]

That vid sounds awesome. Be a good ring tune

[Reeves]

Any updates yet?

Yeah, I need to take some pics. Been working on header fitment and some other things. Redid the shifter cables again. One thing leads to another.....


That vid sounds awesome. Be a good ring tune

Wow....great idea.

[Lugert]

How does this JackWagon get a thread about his car that is over 54 pages long?! :)

[Rampage16V]

Must be some interesting stuff!

[contraption22]

How does this JackWagon get a thread about his car that is over 54 pages long?! :)

Because he posts every time he breaks his trans! lol

[turbovanman²]

Because he posts every time he breaks his trans! lol

OH SNAP!!! :lol:

[Reaper1]

OH SNAP!!! :lol:

That's what the tranny said! :drum:

[Reeves]

Check out this video that my friends twin boys made with their tablet (they are 9 years old!)

http://youtu.be/CUMVvjzyYK4

---------- Post added at 01:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:53 PM ----------

Check out this video that my friends twin boys made with their tablet (they are 9 years old!)

http://youtu.be/CUMVvjzyYK4


http://youtu.be/CUMVvjzyYK4

[GLHS60]

Hats off to the twins!! I always thought you were running a single turbo.:eyebrows:

Thanks
Randy

[ohiorob]

cool, I wish I could do stuff like that. I feel old and stupid.

[wheming]

Check out this video that my friends twin boys made with their tablet (they are 9 years old!)

http://youtu.be/CUMVvjzyYK4

---------- Post added at 01:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:53 PM ----------

Check out this video that my friends twin boys made with their tablet (they are 9 years old!)

http://youtu.be/CUMVvjzyYK4


http://youtu.be/CUMVvjzyYK4

WTF?
"The content owner has not made the video available on mobile."

Well that's a fine how do you do! :(

[5DIGITS]

The looks good, runs good, and sounds good !!
How much boost and/or bottle?

Great car!

[Reeves]

The looks good, runs good, and sounds good !!
How much boost and/or bottle?

Great car!

35 psi boost on that run...no bottle.

Thanks Ken!

[Reaper1]

WOW!! That's impressive! I wouldn't even know how to start to build a video! :( Good choice on the FFDP music cover!! :thumb: :rockon: I also REALLY like how they slowed the drag run down and the turbo sound gets to be more and more like a jet going by!! That is simply SICK!! (in a REALLY good way)

[Aries_Turbo]

nice vid. nothing like kids getting their hands on technology. :)

i need to snag the flyby sound as a ringtone on my phone lol.

Brian

[8valves]

Turn up the boost!

AM

[Reeves]

nice vid. nothing like kids getting their hands on technology. :)

i need to snag the flyby sound as a ringtone on my phone lol.

Brian

If you do....can I have a copy? That would be cool!

[contraption22]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwC0irAbYdkDamn, that sounds sick!

Reminds me of these.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwC0irAbYdk

[csxtra]

Damn, that sounds sick!

<snip> A10 Warthog video </snip>
Reminds me of these.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwC0irAbYdk

The jet noise sounds like James' car in the video, but the flatulent sounds aren't accurate...James is the master of the Silent-but-deadly...

[Aries_Turbo]

http://www.squirrelpf.com/bucar/Misc/reeves.mp3

depending on your phone, you should be able to make this a ringtone or text message delivery notification.

i tried to capture more of the TD sound and less of the V8.

Brian

[Reeves]

http://www.squirrelpf.com/bucar/Misc/reeves.mp3

depending on your phone, you should be able to make this a ringtone or text message delivery notification.

i tried to capture more of the TD sound and less of the V8.

Brian

Got it! Sounds badass!

[Aries_Turbo]

yeah its gonna go on my phone for when i get a text. :)

Brian

[Reeves]

yeah its gonna go on my phone for when i get a text. :)

Brian

That's what I have mine set to as well. Freakin awesome!

[turbovanman²]

Shayne put that on his phone, guess I'll have too as well, lol. Great jobs those kids did, damn.

[Reeves]

Here's one my neighbor made on his phone from videos he took last year with his phone:

http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?v=615217351825059&set=vb.100000103999587&type=2&theater

[Reaper1]

Here's one my neighbor made on his phone from videos he took last year with his phone:

http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?v=615217351825059&set=vb.100000103999587&type=2&theater

Sweet! I like the M.C. Hammer it's rockin'! :thumb: :rockon:

[Shadow]

K, cars had a couple really successful outings, soooo, time for.............................

Update, Update!!!!! I know you've been busy bro, but at least get one of your lacky's to post the info on your new set-up :)

Was Great talking with you at SDAC, and I didn't want to bombard you with too many Q's about the new build, But inquiring minds Need to know!!!

Turbo specs, fuel management, weight reduction ect ect

Post it up bro! :nod: (unless it's still a secret :eyebrows:)

[Clay]

Big turbo.......... bigger balls.

[omni_840]

But inquiring minds Need to know!!!

Turbo specs, fuel management, weight reduction ect ect

Post it up bro! :nod: (unless it's still ....

+1 :nod:

[Shadow]

Damn, wide awake and nothing to do. No update hey? Time to play Guess the update!

First up; new turbo, while I'd really like to know the pr readings you got on the 30/40r, I don't think they're needed to guess which turbo you went with. The obvious upgrade from the 30/40r would be............

































GT or GTX35r with Tial .82 A/R housing!


Am I right, am I right!?


Or did you get sneaky and keep the 30/40r and stuff it in a Tial 1.06 A/R housing? :eyebrows:

[csxtra]

Or did you get sneaky and keep the 30/40r and stuff it in a Tial 1.06 A/R housing? :eyebrows:

Rob, I'm not 100% sure of the specs of his new turbo aside from he went up to a 35 turbine and I'm not sure of the A/R of the Tial housing, but I do know for certain that the 30/40R is no longer in his car...it was installed into one of his "lacky's" cars...


I know you've been busy bro, but at least get one of your lacky's to post the info on your new set-up :)

Hey, I resemble that remark...:D

[Shadow]

but I do know for certain that the 30/40R is no longer in his car...it was installed into one of his "lacky's" cars...


Sounds like one of his lacky's is going to have a pretty Fast car soooonnnnn! :)

[Reeves]

Tial GT35/40R with .82AR V-band In/Out (Better PR and not too much change in spool time compared to the 30/40)

Aaron Miller Long Tube Header

Fuel Management? 87 Logic Module

Slowe Racing and Sledgehammer Racing (Menegon) intake manifold prototype.

Ford Explorer throttle body (65mm)

Check out this in car video that Mike Marra got on his Go-Pro. Pretty cool!

http://youtu.be/NpIYnImggqs

[86Shelby]

Nice video! What's the switch on the dash used for?

[GLHNSLHT2]

http://youtu.be/NpIYnImggqs

[Reeves]

Nice video! What's the switch on the dash used for?

From left to right:
Fan, Water Pump, Fuel Pump, Line Lock

You see me release the line lock after the burnout, then turn the fan on and off as the track officials try to get their sh*t straight.



http://youtu.be/NpIYnImggqs

Thanks!

[168glhs1986]

Bwaaaa. Slam into 2nd, bwaaa, slam into third, bwaaaa. Slam into fourth.

Awesome

[turbomini]

From left to right:
Fan, Water Pump, Fuel Pump, Line Lock

You see me release the line lock after the burnout, then turn the fan on and off as the track officials try to get their sh*t straight.



Thanks!


thats muncie for you i was there the other week for my brothers bday and the guy they use on the race days was cool and had his way of doing it which made it easyer :D

[Directconnection]

Check out this in car video that Mike Marra got on his Go-Pro. Pretty cool!

http://youtu.be/NpIYnImggqs

Check out this video of the same race filmed outside of the car. Pretty cool!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHfVTIeQ9S0

[turbovanman²]

About time for the update, :p

Nice run, sounds awesome. :cool:

[Shadow]

Tial GT35/40R with .82AR V-band In/Out (Better PR and not too much change in spool time compared to the 30/40)


For clarification; GT35/40R, same as GT3582R so in laymens terms, a complete GT35r with proper GT35R turbine wheel and housing? (there are Way to many names for a 35R lol)

Thanks for the update, I'll try not to Pry so much in the near future............:)

[turbovanman²]

I'll try not to Pry so much in the near future............:)

Cough yeah right cough! :p

[Shadow]

Cough yeah right cough! :p

Seriously................:p

[Ondonti]

Am I the only one who found the windshield wipers moving up the window to be hillarious?

[contraption22]

Am I the only one who found the windshield wipers moving up the window to be hillarious?

Haha It happens to mine too. It was distracting, so I removed the arms.

[Shadow]

Am I the only one who found the windshield wipers moving up the window to be hillarious?

just part of the $hit that happens at 140+mph :)


Haha It happens to mine too. It was distracting, so I removed the arms.

Shows how much time you "auto" guys have to "smell the roses" going down the track! lol

With a stick car you have enough things to do that you don't even notice. (I don't anyways)

I can def relate to the clammy shift hand, dry on the pants, grip the shifter, repeat as needed.

[contraption22]

Shows how much time you "auto" guys have to "smell the roses" going down the track! lol

With a stick car you have enough things to do that you don't even notice. (I don't anyways)



Yeah, I have to tell you, it's kinda nice. :) You should try it.

[Shadow]

Yeah, I have to tell you, it's kinda nice. :) You should try it.

Maybe one day, if I ever get tired of rowing gears :)

[turboshad]

I hate clammy shift hand. :mad:

[Reaper1]

Driving gloves = win! I actually use batting gloves because they are thin and breathe, but they have grip to them. Any auto-x, track day, ect....I bring them! ;)

[Reeves]

I generally take the wiper arms off because they turn theirselves on at about 130mph!! I guess they get out of their home position and then wipe and try to go back home but they can't cause of the wind. Funny sh*t.

I hate clammy shift hand also. It's actually making my bare aluminum shift handle corrode. I need to get that anodized.

And technically, aren't we supposed to be wearing gloves at over 135mph??

[Shadow]

Funny, I use to have a pair of finger-less gloves that I used the first year I was driving the charger at the track (biking gloves?). Don't know what happened to them...........lol

[DetroitTurbo]

Rooting for you to win the DD bracket!

[8valves]

Car sounds awesome James. I caught a glimpse of the car on Drag Week in the live coverage on lunch one day!

[csxtra]

I heard a rumor...something about 577whp and 552wtq?

[Pat]

I heard a rumor...something about 577whp and 552wtq?

Wow!!!

[contraption22]

Just awesome!

[Rampage16V]

Yahoo!!! Gotta like that!!!

[Shadow]

I heard a rumor...something about 577whp and 552wtq?

Wait a second, those sound like 2.2 #'s to me. What happened to all that 2.5 torque? lol

Will be very interested to see the peak torque and HP on that run. Great job bro!

[2.216VTurbo]

Wait, when did JR go to a 16Vmotor:lol:?

[wheming]

Is there an easy way to get a breakdown summary of your build? Or do I have to take a day off from work and read all 1100+ posts?? ;)

[glhs875]

Wierd, I've had Great results with internal gates! Never a problem. External gates on the other hand I've had to change springs and fart around trying to hold boost stable.

Just goes to show you, two different ppl with different experience = different results! lol

The internal wastegate set up on the SC6152 I have allowed uncontrollable boost creep above 5500 RPM!! I tried and checked everything I could think of to no avail. I can say that with a 4" exhaust system, back pressure wasn't or at least shouldn't be the cause! BTW, awesome car and videos James!!!

[Force Fed Mopar]

I heard a rumor...something about 577whp and 552wtq?

Tis true!

[Shadow]

The internal wastegate set up on the SC6152 I have allowed uncontrollable boost creep above 5500 RPM!! I tried and checked everything I could think of to no avail. I can say that with a 4" exhaust system, back pressure wasn't or at least shouldn't be the cause! BTW, awesome car and videos James!!!

Are you saying the precision turbo's have an inherent Flaw in there wastegates? The Holset I'm running is unported at the W/G. IF I open the 4" dump on my 20psi street tune it will creep to 25+ very quickly, but with the dump closed and going through my full 3" exhaust it's solid at 20psi. If I go to the track where I run 35+psi with the 4" dump open, the boost is rock solid as well.

IF I wanted to run 20psi with the dump open, I Don't need an external gate, what I need to do is port the internal one Larger and/or "bias" it to Flow More Through........that's it.

Now, if your saying that you've ported the SC6152 as large as it will go and it still have uncontrollable creep, then the turbo was made with too small of a W/G, simple as that.

So the problem has nothing to do with internal vs external, it simply has to do with the Right size W/G and correct exhaust path through it for the application :)

[glhs727]

awesome numbers. Who would have thought 20 years ago, a 4 cylinder Omni would make over 600 engine hp someday! That would be crazy talk. Now if you don't have at least 500 whp you probably won't make the quick 8 at a sdac event. !!

[lengel]

I thought I saw a vid of this some where. :eyebrows: Sick Tq! What was peak power at?

[glhs875]

Are you saying the precision turbo's have an inherent Flaw in there wastegates? The Holset I'm running is unported at the W/G. IF I open the 4" dump on my 20psi street tune it will creep to 25+ very quickly, but with the dump closed and going through my full 3" exhaust it's solid at 20psi. If I go to the track where I run 35+psi with the 4" dump open, the boost is rock solid as well.

IF I wanted to run 20psi with the dump open, I Don't need an external gate, what I need to do is port the internal one Larger and/or "bias" it to Flow More Through........that's it.

Now, if your saying that you've ported the SC6152 as large as it will go and it still have uncontrollable creep, then the turbo was made with too small of a W/G, simple as that.

So the problem has nothing to do with internal vs external, it simply has to do with the Right size W/G and correct exhaust path through it for the application :)


I just measured the IG on the 6152. It is around 20mm at most. It probably could be ported out some and just move the creep up higher in the R's, but it is not worth the trouble to me. I'am going EG. As good as my car ran (8.30's @ 90mph- 1.9's 60's on pure street radials) I had the boost limited to around 23psi and that was in 3 stages, and then I was bleeding off all the boost that was caused by the creep (who knows how much) out the BOV valve (I know, an awful thing to do). But I least I was able to do some testing on the new combo. When my car runs again with an EG installed, it will be much much faster I'am sure!!!

[cordes]

Congrats James. That is an incredible feat.

[mopar-tech]

Nicely done James, makes me want to get back in it but I have a few things to get settled first.

Gary

[dodgeshadowchik]

Saw the video over on that facebang site. Nicely done!! :D

[BadAssPerformance]

Nice work James! :clap:

[Reeves]

Thanks guys!

http://youtu.be/ot3Z96JkM-4

- - - Updated - - -


http://youtu.be/ot3Z96JkM-4

[glhs875]

Wow!!! Awesome dyno pull!

[Reeves]

Those torque numbers are probably off. You can hear the tires squealing in the vid. Couldn't keep it from doing it at torque peak.

[Shadow]

Been having the same issues with the Charger on the dyno. It hits just over 5200rpm and won't hold the tires at the roller load and at the boost level I ran at the track :(

What size and make of tire do you use on the dyno? Still on the clutch you had at SDAC?

[GLHNSLHT2]

nice Numbers, but wow I didn't know you could still record in 240p on anything :) Must be a backwoods kentucky phone

[Pat]

So Reeves....I was just sitting here checking is thread and my 8 year old son Sean walks up and looks over my shoulder:

Sean: Cool! Can i watch the video? (dyno video)
Me: Sure (play video)
Sean: Wow. Whose car is that?
Me: That car belongs to my friend James.
Sean: Is he famous?
Me: Yeah...he's kind of a big deal.
Sean: Yeah....

Lol!

[BadAssPerformance]

^^^ LMAO! :lol:

[Aries_Turbo]

who is doing the tuning?

Brian

[bakes]

Don't laugh a friend of mine was at/in diesel dyno day at BD's were they used a fork lift forks to preload the rear of the trucks to stop tires blowing off the rollers
on the big boys

[2.216VTurbo]

Those torque numbers are probably off. You can hear the tires squealing in the vid. Couldn't keep it from doing it at torque peak.

"belt dressing" in a spray can next time, makes the rollers sooooo sticky:thumb:

[Reeves]

nice Numbers, but wow I didn't know you could still record in 240p on anything :) Must be a backwoods kentucky phone

LMAO! It kinda was! I didn't even think to bring a camera or anything, that was my friend Clay's video.


So Reeves....I was just sitting here checking is thread and my 8 year old son Sean walks up and looks over my shoulder:

Sean: Cool! Can i watch the video? (dyno video)
Me: Sure (play video)
Sean: Wow. Whose car is that?
Me: That car belongs to my friend James.
Sean: Is he famous?
Me: Yeah...he's kind of a big deal.
Sean: Yeah....

Lol!

LMAO!!! Need an autograph?


"belt dressing" in a spray can next time, makes the rollers sooooo sticky:thumb:


Seriously?

I thought about my slicks....but was afraid they would get too tall and rub the fenders.

I thought about VHT or track claw.

Last dyno (503whp IIRC) was on drag radials, this was on normal street treads (Nitto NT-450). The drag radials also spun, but I don't think it was this bad. LOL

[Reeves]

http://bangshift.com/blog/angry-dyno-video-watch-the-meanest-dodge-omni-glh-youve-ever-seen-lay-down-577hp-to-the-tires.html

Check this out!

[Vigo]

Does it torquesteer?! pffffffffffffffffffff

Torquesteer is for people with traction.

[Pat]

http://bangshift.com/blog/angry-dyno-video-watch-the-meanest-dodge-omni-glh-youve-ever-seen-lay-down-577hp-to-the-tires.html

Check this out!


Dude! That is flipping awesome.

[Shadow]

Has a 2.4l SRT head? WT :confused:

James, you been keeping secrets again :mad:

[DetroitTurbo]

Man that is a cool write-up. Some of the comments are kinda misinformed lol!

[csxtra]

http://bangshift.com/blog/angry-dyno-video-watch-the-meanest-dodge-omni-glh-youve-ever-seen-lay-down-577hp-to-the-tires.html

Check this out!


47487

[Pat]

Just posted the link to the GRM board.

[GLHS60]

Great stuff James!! Are there any dyno sheets posted, I'm very curious to see what RPM, or RPM's as JT would say, you are making peak H.P.

Thanks
Randy

[csxtra]

who is doing the tuning?

Brian

Some non-gazer. :lol:

Seriously though, the tune on Reeves' OMNI is Warrened out. :eyebrows:

[SilverFleet]

I've been seeing the video all over the place, and I just wanted to pop my head in here and congratulate you on building one INSANE car! Nice work!!!:clap:

[Ondonti]

Safety wise I would rather run radial tires as far as its possible. The 1000+hp fwd cars seem to avoid the dyno because their slicks come apart on the dyno and it gets dangerous.
Not problem on a dynopack.

Traction compounds would probably work better with drag radials.

[Aries_Turbo]

Some non-gazer. :lol:

Seriously though, the tune on Reeves' OMNI is Warrened out. :eyebrows:

thats what i thought. :) all true other than the the non-gazer part. :) lol.

[5DIGITS]

Safety wise I would rather run radial tires as far as its possible. The 1000+hp fwd cars seem to avoid the dyno because their slicks come apart on the dyno and it gets dangerous.
Not problem on a dynopack. Traction compounds would probably work better with drag radials.

Agreed.
Excessive drag slick sidewall deflection influences the dyno results and wheel slip plays havoc on the dyno calculation due to the subsequent acceleration, as the dyno drum reconnects with the tires.
A set of VHT or belt dress sprayed radials should address most of this while being safer during testing.

Congrats on your four wheel rocket and the reward of recognition, for your accomplishments.
This is indeed a cool GLHT !!

[johnl]

Sir James. Thanks. Well done.

[BIGBRUDDA]

47487


I'd like to order the first T-shirt Warren!!:hail::thumb:

[Reeves]

Thanks for all the congrats! I'm stoked it went this far. I didn't even take a camera or anything to the dyno. The only real reason I went was to get my numbers on the record board for funs-ies. See, it's a friend of mine just up the road from me, and he and his clan are "LS" guys. We tease each other pretty much daily via text. The highest record before this new dyno day was a Camaro SS at 381 whp. I told him I was gonna come up there and put my numbers on the top of the board, to which he replied with a picture of a 4-cylinder Forced Induction area on his board. I said "NO, I mean I'm gonna come up there, put my car on the dyno, and you are going to have to put my numbers on the TOP of your record board"


I accomplished that :)

That morning, when I first arrived, my friend strapped his fox body with a 347 stroker on the rollers and we tuned on it. Little more timing, little less fuel, and he made 362 whp. Then another guy rolled his 320-some cid Fox Body on the dyno and made 325hp. He sprayed it with 100 shot and made 402hp and close to 400 lb/ft IIRC.



Then we went and got my Dad's 2007 Charger (5.7L Hemi....warmed over :)) and made 379 whp..... We tried and tried to get that extra 3 hp to beat that Camaro SS, but just couldn't muster it. We'll go back again with the headers open :)

[Shadow]

I gotta say, Good on you bro! For being able to get these cars noticed and "out there" where ppl outside of our little community can take notice and be awed and wowed by these little Monsters :) :thumb:

[omni_840]

Good stuff!

[rx2mazda]

Congrats James!!

[fishcleaner]

hahaha, love it, stick a picture of your car next to the number.

[Force Fed Mopar]

This is really making me want to take the GTC to the next level!

[Reaper1]

Congrats, James!

[BoostedDrummer]

Wow, congrats man!!

BTW, came across this video of the same pull(?) that shows the numbers and such more clearly. Just in case anyone who stumbles across the other one is skeptical.


http://youtu.be/HQNEPtHxA4w

[c2xejk]

Over on bangshift somebody compiled list of best passes for multiple drag weeks. James' Omni was number 213. (Pat's Shadow was 260. Jeff Mass' Omni was 304, MaryBeth's Talon was 363)

http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showthread.php/46205-Top-100-Fastest-Dragweek-Cars/page10

[dodgeshadowchik]

Wow, that's pretty cool that we all made it on that list!

The comments on bangshift about the Omni are rather funny.

[Reeves]

Wow, congrats man!!

BTW, came across this video of the same pull(?) that shows the numbers and such more clearly. Just in case anyone who stumbles across the other one is skeptical.


http://youtu.be/HQNEPtHxA4w

Yeah, I'm not sure even shot that video, but it was the guy who owns the dyno who posted it on YouTube. Cool!



Wow, that's pretty cool that we all made it on that list!

The comments on bangshift about the Omni are rather funny.

I agree!!! I LOL a lot at the comments on Bangshift and Facebook!

"Little Bastard"
"Angry Bastard"
"Aerodynamics of a refrigerator" LMAO
"It's a grenade!" <Jealous LS owner
"Fugly" LOL

[DetroitTurbo]

This one is by far the funniest. I can't tell if he is trolling or serious but wow it almost had me in tears!
from bangshift.com:
Henry
I owned an Omni GLH (before the turbo was introduced). It was the most stinking, ratty, miserable experience I’ve ever had with vehicle ownership. Bought it new. Was lucky to have sold it less than 18 months later…way less than 18 months. It was pure garbage. Each and every system on the vehicle failed. I couldn’t believe it. And the car is moron stupid low tech. It was literally at the dealer’s shop at least 50% of the time I owned the piece of s**t. I couldn’t sell it quickly enough. Only had to wait till it got outta the shop to put it onto the market. Total garbage. Worse than garbage. Total stinker. Deserves to rust out. Hated it. Never bought a Chrysler product since. Crapola. I’ve been waiting 27 years to vent on that slop box of a dumpster with wheels.

[shackwrrr]

congrats on the awesome dyno numbers. Love how the dyno is set up in an old barn complete with dirt floors and holes in the walls lol.

[8valves]

Congrats James! It was good seeing you as well. Hopefully you've got some new ideas brewing, and you know I'll do what I can to help facilitate. :)

AM

[Shadow]

I just Love the fact that there are so many "experienced" TM'ers involved in this build/ project! I think you guys did an Awesome job all around this year and looking forward to more from the "Reeves team" next year!

Deuce Dot Cinco FTW!!!!! :thumb:

[Rampage16V]

You scared the sh*t out of his dog !!!

[Shadow]

So, 10.24 @ 141.33 was the best ET run, was this also the highest mph trap? (rumours floating around about higher trap speeds, just looking for some confirmation)

Reeves, you should update your sig when you get a chance ;)

[Shadow]

Knock knock..............

[2.216VTurbo]

^ Jimmy's been working, I know he was in Cali today and working too many hours to have a few drinks with friends:o

[PunKid]

congrats on the awesome dyno numbers. Love how the dyno is set up in an old barn complete with dirt floors and holes in the walls lol.

I have to agree, of all the old tools and shop equipment I would love to have in my garage not once did I ever think about installing a Dyno! Hell I use to run one when I was in highschool for a speed shop, I think I just added a new item to search for on craigslist!

[168glhs1986]

Dont laugh, i think this will help

[Reeves]

Here’s a little long overdue update.

Towards the end of the 2013 season, I was having trouble getting the trans into 3rd. At the very last race (and in the finals unfortunately) I could not get the car into 3rd at all. Luckily this was the last race for me anyway (Mopar Southern Classic in Clay City, KY…a VERY good time). I put the car away for the winter and enjoyed the holidays.

Fast forward to now. I pulled the trans, and found that the 3-4 fork is cracked and bent. Also found that my intermediate shaft is shot once again.
I called a spray welding place about repairing the shaft, but they didn’t recommend it since it would be riding on the needles in the bearing…. Off to still find another solution for fixing this issue. For now, I found a spare shaft and ring gear in my shed. Thanks to Warren and Max for the weekend of digging in the trans shed and Max for doing most of the tear downs.

I drilled an extra hole in the oil slinger behind the intermediate shaft bearing. I located the hole right in between the rollers of the bearing. I have no idea if this will help or not, but I’m thinking it may add just a slight bit of squirting/swirling to the needles. I guess we’ll see if this shaft lasts a little longer.

You can also see that I added a 3rd M8 hole to the endplates to help keep the chromemoly plate from deflecting…which I know is happening. I’m looking into getting a “chromemoly” plate made out of something more like tool steel. I need to call up my machinist to see where he’s at on that. Something less prone to flexing…but not so hard that it’ll crack… For now, I’ll see if this 3rd hole helps.

Digging through my stuff I found 2 more 3-4 forks that are actually thicker in the area where my old one cracked. Cool. I put that in.

I also installed the bronze fork pads for my first time. 3 of them on the 1-2 and 3 of them on the 3-4. I also planned to just leave the plastic ones on for 5th…but I went ahead and stuck 2 bronze ones there too…as I was too lazy to go get more plastic ones out of the shed.

Also I put in the crash boxed 3 and 4 gears and the crash boxed 3-4 selector. I’ve been leery of running these for fear that the little synchro teeth that are left are going to break off….but since DJ has been running them with no fears….well…. Hats off to DJ for the help in getting these done.

Also installed a new Quaife diff. Nothing wrong with the old one except a lot of wear and tear. I plan to send the old one back for a rebuild and keep it for the next trans.

Pics

[minigts]

525 with a quaife? This thing should rock.

[DetroitTurbo]

Nice work. Going to do Drag Week again this year?

[cordes]

525 with a quaife? This thing should rock.

You aren't anyone unless you're running a 525. I'm converting the CSX over to one as we speak.

[DetroitTurbo]

You aren't anyone unless you're running a 525. I'm converting the CSX over to one as we speak.

I thought the 525 was the weakest manual trans?

[minigts]

525 with a quaife? This thing should rock.[/SARCASM]


You aren't anyone unless you're running a 525. I'm converting the CSX over to one as we speak. [/SARCASM]

Sorry, edited. :) I hold the self record for the strongest 525 ever built.

[85boostbox]

^This guy has the chuck Norris 525

[turboshad]

Looking good James. :thumb: If you want to stop flex in the bearing plate the only thing you can do is make it thicker. It is a bending problem which is regulated by the materials young's modulus and cross section. Since all steels have basically the same young's modulus, in the 200-210 GPa range, the only thing you can do to stop flex is make it thicker. It is a wide misconception that chromoly is stiffer than steel when in fact it is the same. Chromoly has a higher yield strength which is why it can do the same job with less material. That being said if you made a roll cage out of steel to NHRA spec and one out of 4130 to NHRA spec the steel one would actually be stiffer b/c of the thicker wall.

[Ondonti]

No sleeving options for the shaft?

[2.216VTurbo]

No sleeving options for the shaft?

^ Yes, Pat P. had a half dozen or so I shafts sleeved years ago and AFAIK, they are all still in service. That machine shop went out of Biz in the 2008 meltdown but if that guy could do it, surely others can too. Sleeving is the way to go IMO

[Reeves]

Nice work. Going to do Drag Week again this year?

I'm number 30 on the waiting list.....which is really number 80. They only wanted 260 people to sign up, but before they could shut down the registration page, 350 signed up. So they are going to allow the 350 to race, but they are going to let up to 50 drop out before they start using the waiting list. In other words....slim chance.


Looking good James. :thumb: If you want to stop flex in the bearing plate the only thing you can do is make it thicker. It is a bending problem which is regulated by the materials young's modulus and cross section. Since all steels have basically the same young's modulus, in the 200-210 GPa range, the only thing you can do to stop flex is make it thicker. It is a wide misconception that chromoly is stiffer than steel when in fact it is the same. Chromoly has a higher yield strength which is why it can do the same job with less material. That being said if you made a roll cage out of steel to NHRA spec and one out of 4130 to NHRA spec the steel one would actually be stiffer b/c of the thicker wall.

Thanks! I believe I looked into thicker a while back and determined I'd have to get rid of 5th gear....but, I'll revisit this soon.



No sleeving options for the shaft?

Yes, I'm sure that is a viable solution...I just want to make sure I don't end up like the 523/568 guys with the sleeve coming off. And don't want to TIG glue unless absolutely necessary.


^ Yes, Pat P. had a half dozen or so I shafts sleeved years ago and AFAIK, they are all still in service. That machine shop went out of Biz in the 2008 meltdown but if that guy could do it, surely others can too. Sleeving is the way to go IMO

Yeah....that's probably what is going to happen. But, they good KOYO bearing is no longer available either...

[c2xejk]

I'm number 30 on the waiting list.....which is really number 80. They only wanted 260 people to sign up, but before they could shut down the registration page, 350 signed up. So they are going to allow the 350 to race, but they are going to let up to 50 drop out before they start using the waiting list. In other words....slim chance.

If you are willing to take a bit of gamble, just show up. I think the odds favor you getting in. So far, they have never turned somebody away that has shown up on the day of DW...

If you do, get in line EARLY and be prepared for a long day of waiting. They will be filling the no show slots in the order they go through the tech line... But until they close the tech line they will not know if or how many slots are available.

With no refund being given I think there will be a lot of people that do not show and do not cancel.

[Reaper1]

It looks like the bearing for the I-shaft isn't riding on the entire available surface of the inner race (surface of the shaft). Can you confirm that the entire width of the needles are riding on the shaft?

If it is, I wonder if somehow being able to make it so the bearing is more "choked up" on the shaft would make any difference? It might reduce the amount of bending stress.

[DetroitTurbo]

I'm number 30 on the waiting list.....which is really number 80. They only wanted 260 people to sign up, but before they could shut down the registration page, 350 signed up. So they are going to allow the 350 to race, but they are going to let up to 50 drop out before they start using the waiting list. In other words....slim chance.

Bummer, I really enjoyed watching you kick --- on the live feed last year. I'll just have too keep an eye out for George's 79 Colt. That thing was amazing.

[contraption22]

Glad to see you're back to work on the Omni!

[lengel]

I don't know much about the 555, but maybe the plate could be made thicker in some areas and thinner in other, so you could still retain your 5th gear, and still make it some what stronger .

[Reaper1]

Webbing might be the way to go. Off the top of my head I can't remember if that plate carries a bearing. If not, maybe a carbon fiber plate would work. I know I'm grasping with that one and I don't remember the flexure strength for that material. I wouldn't hesitate to think that the plies would have to be sewn together in the Z direction to help with flexure stiffness and help prevent ply seperation. That isn't exactly cheap if you don't have the capability to do this yourself. Some would say that you would *need* to build a part like this with pre-preg material, but OOACRT with a vacuum bag will work just fine. I can't speculate on cost. Propper design of this part would be critical due to the nature of its job. I gotta finish this post later...got something super important to take care of.

[Shadow]

Looking good James. :thumb: If you want to stop flex in the bearing plate the only thing you can do is make it thicker. It is a bending problem which is regulated by the materials young's modulus and cross section. Since all steels have basically the same young's modulus, in the 200-210 GPa range, the only thing you can do to stop flex is make it thicker. It is a wide misconception that chromoly is stiffer than steel when in fact it is the same. Chromoly has a higher yield strength which is why it can do the same job with less material. That being said if you made a roll cage out of steel to NHRA spec and one out of 4130 to NHRA spec the steel one would actually be stiffer b/c of the thicker wall.

What about adding some extra bolts to hold the plate closer to the area of deflection? I'd have to open up a couple trannies and look, but it seems to me that the smaller bearing plate on the 568 is thicker and is bolted closer to the bearings.......no?

[Ondonti]

I have 2 running transmissions that have the sleeve welded. One with no oil slinger. The other is my daily to work.

I still feel that bearings can be worked out even if its not exactly OEM. Look for different ID and OD options and consider not only sleeving the shaft but sleeving the case or boring it out as needed to use available "good" bearings. Use whatever shaft sleeve will correspond with the bearing you are able to fit into the case. Can't be that hard to lathe whatever you want out of tool steel hallow rod or solid. I am very sure there would be a market for it if somebody wants to be a team player.

I hope to get around to modifying a 543/523/568 style bearing plate sooner then later.

[83scamp]

I have 2 running transmissions that have the sleeve welded. One with no oil slinger. The other is my daily to work.

I still feel that bearings can be worked out even if its not exactly OEM. Look for different ID and OD options and consider not only sleeving the shaft but sleeving the case or boring it out as needed to use available "good" bearings. Use whatever shaft sleeve will correspond with the bearing you are able to fit into the case. Can't be that hard to lathe whatever you want out of tool steel hallow rod or solid. I am very sure there would be a market for it if somebody wants to be a team player.

I hope to get around to modifying a 543/523/568 style bearing plate sooner then later.

If somebody can get me the ID, OD, & thickness of the bearing in question, I can do some digging for a suitable substitute. A big part of my job is taking care of spare parts inventory where I work. I stock several hundred bearings, and have access to all the major manufactures. I should be able to find a cross to the OEM bearing, or something close enough that you guys can make it work. If you could also get a close up picture of the bearing so I can see the manufacture & part number that would be a big help as well. I can't supply them, but I could at least get you guys a part number that can be purchased through a bearing distributor.

[86Shelby]

What about adding some extra bolts to hold the plate closer to the area of deflection? I'd have to open up a couple trannies and look, but it seems to me that the smaller bearing plate on the 568 is thicker and is bolted closer to the bearings.......no?

It has 5 or 6 bolts IIRC holding it in place, and is thicker as well.

Would the bend around the shaft that the 526/68 support plate has, help strenghten the 520/55 plate? I'd like to think that making it thicker would be a possibility but it's been over a year since I've been inside a 555.

[135sohc]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?32202-555-bearing-carnage/page15&highlight=

Replacement bearing thread.

[Reaper1]

Looking good James. :thumb: If you want to stop flex in the bearing plate the only thing you can do is make it thicker. It is a bending problem which is regulated by the materials young's modulus and cross section. Since all steels have basically the same young's modulus, in the 200-210 GPa range, the only thing you can do to stop flex is make it thicker. It is a wide misconception that chromoly is stiffer than steel when in fact it is the same. Chromoly has a higher yield strength which is why it can do the same job with less material. That being said if you made a roll cage out of steel to NHRA spec and one out of 4130 to NHRA spec the steel one would actually be stiffer b/c of the thicker wall.


I don't know much about the 555, but maybe the plate could be made thicker in some areas and thinner in other, so you could still retain your 5th gear, and still make it some what stronger .


What about adding some extra bolts to hold the plate closer to the area of deflection? I'd have to open up a couple trannies and look, but it seems to me that the smaller bearing plate on the 568 is thicker and is bolted closer to the bearings.......no?


Webbing might be the way to go. Off the top of my head I can't remember if that plate carries a bearing. If not, maybe a carbon fiber plate would work. I know I'm grasping with that one and I don't remember the flexure for that material. I wouldn't hesitate to think that the plies would have to be sewn together in the Z direction to help with flexure stiffness and help prevent ply seperation. That isn't exactly cheap if you don't have the capability to do this yourself. Some would say that you would *need* to build a part like this with pre-preg material, but OOACRT with a vacuum bag will work just fine. I can't speculate on cost. Propper design of this part would be critical due to the nature of its job. I gotta finish this post later...got something super important to take care of.

OK, I'm going to finish this post now.
...The reason the design is critical is due to the holes that are in the plate. To get the maximum strength you need the plies oriented correctly so the imparted stresses are properly dispersed around the holes. This may require a unidirectional or harness weave material.

In any case, CF would be a kick a$$ way to really strengthen this part. It may be possible to simply lay down a stack of plies to make a plate and then just cut the holes through it. However, I'd want to test it first. I don't know how that would handle high shock loads.

[Reeves]

I don't know much about the 555, but maybe the plate could be made thicker in some areas and thinner in other, so you could still retain your 5th gear, and still make it some what stronger .

That's a good plan. I'll have to check that out.


If somebody can get me the ID, OD, & thickness of the bearing in question, I can do some digging for a suitable substitute. A big part of my job is taking care of spare parts inventory where I work. I stock several hundred bearings, and have access to all the major manufactures. I should be able to find a cross to the OEM bearing, or something close enough that you guys can make it work. If you could also get a close up picture of the bearing so I can see the manufacture & part number that would be a big help as well. I can't supply them, but I could at least get you guys a part number that can be purchased through a bearing distributor.

57.3mm OD, 35.6mm ID or 1.4016" ID
Koyo Bearing Number RNU070618-6

Would be awesome if you could find one!


Other updates:
Got a set of R4-1 compound front brake pads on the way from Porterfield. Great customer service! Thanks to Steve Menegon for turning me on to them. Hopefully this will give me enough stopping power in the front that the rears won’t lock up unless in an emergency. If not, I have 1 more option for a less aggressive pad in the rear.
New rear skinnies on the way from MH tires. I blew one out at SDAC due to locking up and flat spotting them to the cords. Oops.
Plan to get some plywood to mock up a front splitter. If it turns out good, I got a lead on some plastic to make the real deal out of. Wish Patrick Culkin would call me back 
Other than that, still trying to figure out a way to control boost vs. MPH or GEAR. Built the rear speed sensor and tested it….but never used it for anything yet.

[2.216VTurbo]

Porterfield has a few good folks working there, they are always real helpful. Their shop location is only about 1/2 mile from mine and when the wind blows the wrong direction, it stinks like burning pads all day:yuck: Don't know how the guys working there can deal with that all day/5 days a week.

[Pat]

Wish Patrick Culkin would call me back 


Yeah, yeah, yeah...

I'll give you a ring tonight. Maybe. :-)

[contraption22]

James ReevesPatrick Culkin

[Pat]

#murdercharger

[Vigo]

If not, I have 1 more option for a less aggressive pad in the rear.

Just get the cheapest autozone pads and grind material off the trailing edge until it doesn't grab too hard. "Brake Tuning".

[mcsvt]

#murdercharger

:thumb:

[Reaper1]

Just get the cheapest autozone pads and grind material off the trailing edge until it doesn't grab too hard. "Brake Tuning".

This is what I did for my brake bias problem. Worked like a champ. :thumb:

[contraption22]

Sometimes the cheapest pads are semi metallic, while the pricier pads are ceramic. The semi metallic pads actually have better initial grip.

[Reaper1]

I can tell you that the Auto Zone "Valuecraft" pads are almost all organic based. There are some exceptions, but a lot.

[Reeves]

Been kind of a rough year for racing for me. Work has been absolutely crazy, and I keep having parts fail on the car. Changes I made over the winter:
Rebuilt trans. Used crash cut 3 and 4 gears. Installed bronze fork pads in 3 spots on 1-2 and 3-4.
Installed new fresh clutch.
Couple other odds/ends. Using rear wheel speed sensor.

The only races I went to this year:
SDAC - Broke right side axle first pass. Fixed that, then had a lot of dumb mistakes (high boost turned off, then high boost not really that high, then overboost cutout at 19psi, etc) Got all those fixed throughout the day and ran a 10.61.

I then:
Moved rear axle back 1.5"
Made Air Splitter on Front
Made air deflector in rear

Mopar World Finals Norwalk - Broke right side axle. Fixed that, then broke right side axle. Fixed that, then waterpump failed. Temporarily fixed that, then clutch failed. Turned boost down to keep the clutch alive and then water pump failed again.

I then installed mechanical water pump and had clutch rebuilt:

Mopar Southern Classic - No broken parts and ran mid to high 10's in bracket racing. Could only go one day (3 day event) due to work.
Turbopalooza - Saturday racing was cancelled, so I went to Clay City for test and tune yesterday. Right off the trailer with zero changes made since Mopar Southern Classic and went 10.6x at 139. Next pass thought I lost traction in 3rd. 3rd pass clutch slipping badly. 4th pass, clutch confirmed slipping horribly so I quit for the day.

Now my question is.....should I throw in the dual disc clutch that I fixed (broke flywheel) or call it quits for the year. I'm way more leaning towards calling it quits for the year and going back to the drawing board.

[Clay]

I would crack a cold PBR, pull it apart, and call it quits for '14.

after a case of PBR, figure out what to do for '15!

[2.216VTurbo]

Was this an Aasco steel flywheel that broke? same company that made my DD? I cant remember now:o

[turbovanman²]

Install the clutch and finish off the year, then you have the winter to redo it or not.

[Pat]

Spend less time goofing around on facebook with Mike Marra, Kaley Cuoco and Patrick Culkin and you'd be able to get a clutch in it for Cecil.

[168glhs1986]

Sounds like all the little problems that kept you from racing this year may be fixed except for the clutch. Throw on in and come down.

The best drag race I ever saw was Marra and You circa 2011 at Cecil. I'd like to see Reeves and Lengel this time around.

[turbovanman²]

Spend less time goofing around on facebook with Mike Marra, Kaley Cuoco and Patrick Culkin and you'd be able to get a clutch in it for Cecil.

Ouch, lol.

[cordes]

I would probably throw in the clutch that you have and head out. I wouldn't want to start out the spring with this problem and no work done on it. Let it be know that this advice is contrary to everything I actually do in real life.

[Clay]

707!!!!!!11!!!!!!!!!!?

[Ondonti]

How has the dual disc done with axle life?

Are you running MPH based boost with that rear wheel speed sensor?

[Shadow]

Biggest concern would be the extra weight of those two disks (What were they, 5lbs?) and how that would effect high rpm shifting. You do however, have the crash box cut gears. (maybe compensate a little?)

IF you're considering running the dual disk next year (putting it in over winter) then I would suggest (if you have the time) putting it in Now and going out and finding out IF it's going to work for you. That way you have the entire off-season to replace it with a clutch that Will work IF need be.

I would Hate to see you handcuffed by the dual disk for any part of next year (If that's the outcome) vs never having to worry about the clutch again!

[Reeves]

I would crack a cold PBR, pull it apart, and call it quits for '14.

after a case of PBR, figure out what to do for '15!

I like your thinking.


Was this an Aasco steel flywheel that broke? same company that made my DD? I cant remember now:o

No, it was the stock flywheel that was thinned (to make the dual disc package fit) and also counterbored in the bolt area (so that the first disc didn’t interfere with the bolt heads). The counterbored holes are what failed (cracked all the way around….the center of the flywheel broke out). I have the entire assembly cleaned up and ready to test again, but this time I thinned the bolt heads instead of counterboring the flywheel.


Spend less time goofing around on facebook with Mike Marra, Kaley Cuoco and Patrick Culkin and you'd be able to get a clutch in it for Cecil.
Patrick Culkin


Sounds like all the little problems that kept you from racing this year may be fixed except for the clutch. Throw on in and come down.

The best drag race I ever saw was Marra and You circa 2011 at Cecil. I'd like to see Reeves and Lengel this time around.

I agree that would be fun!


How has the dual disc done with axle life?

Are you running MPH based boost with that rear wheel speed sensor?

AFAIR (remember) I didn’t break any axles with the dual disc. It was a very nice setup. Easy to slip/control.

The plan is to run MPH based boost off the rear wheel. We are not quite there yet on the logic module side of things. Only made 1 full run on MPH boost and while it did work, it didn’t react quite the way we wanted it to (sluggish switching, takes too long to learn, etc). I’m really hoping we can get that worked out very soon. I think this is going to be a major breakthrough for me and the car. Less breakage and hopefully faster :Eyebrows: I’m currently running a low boost button on the shifter knob. I hold it in for first gear and 2nd gear change and then let loose. Running 12psi on low and 30psi on high at the moment.


Biggest concern would be the extra weight of those two disks (What were they, 5lbs?) and how that would effect high rpm shifting. You do however, have the crash box cut gears. (maybe compensate a little?)

IF you're considering running the dual disk next year (putting it in over winter) then I would suggest (if you have the time) putting it in Now and going out and finding out IF it's going to work for you. That way you have the entire off-season to replace it with a clutch that Will work IF need be.

I would Hate to see you handcuffed by the dual disk for any part of next year (If that's the outcome) vs never having to worry about the clutch again!

To be honest, I do remember having some shifting problems with the dual disc and other clutches before it, but I never 100% pinpointed what for sure it was or if it was a combination of things. I upgraded a lot since then (crash cut gears, new cables, bronze fork pads, 3 pads on selector, etc).

I have decided to keep the dual disc on the back burner and keep working on the current clutch.

[Reaper1]

Dumb question: how are those crash cut gears working out? Obviously they haven't broken, but how are they about engagement, drivability, etc...you know...all the little things...?

[Ondonti]

Can you use some sort of doubler on the back of the flywheel to spread out the load those bolts apply? Been a long time since I saw pictures of how it went together.

[Shadow]

Something to keep in mind while testing out an unproven clutch; (or Any clutch for that matter)

When you "think" you're spinning the slicks on the high end (3rd/ 4th gears) and you're at a track like Norwalk (one of The Best Hooking tracks in the country) the Reality is.....Your Clutch is Slipping! ;)

This is one of the toughest things to figure out on the Spot, and it "seems" so unlikely because the car Keeps going, run after run!

Ceramic clutches do Not slip like organic, IF they do, they are DONE DONE DONE! First sign, good traction Hook (60') and you "think" the tires are spinning or "tire shake" on the high end and the clutch is Already Overpowered. At that point it's just a matter of time.

This is the Best advice I can give you going forward, hope you Don't end up needing it :)

Good luck Bro and Hope it all works out for you!!! :nod:

[bakes]

Rob i wondering if worth putting a pickup sensor on the input shaft ( i have 3 ideas how to do this) and data log engine rpm vrs input shaft speed vrs rear tire speed

[Reeves]

Dumb question: how are those crash cut gears working out? Obviously they haven't broken, but how are they about engagement, drivability, etc...you know...all the little things...?

To be 100% honest, you can't even tell other than quicker/easier shifts. I couldn't believe it either. In my head it seems like it would be sloppy on the street when on/off throttle, but you can't tell at all. If they survive, it's a major win.

[contraption22]

The best drag race I ever saw was Marra and You circa 2011 at Cecil. I'd like to see Reeves and Lengel this time around.

Good times! Hopefully by this time next year, I'll have some passes on my car with the new combo.

[Shadow]

Rob i wondering if worth putting a pickup sensor on the input shaft ( i have 3 ideas how to do this) and data log engine rpm vrs input shaft speed vrs rear tire speed

You Could try that, Or there's always my Famous Second Gear Launch on Slicks method! :eyebrows:

[Reeves]

Good times! Hopefully by this time next year, I'll have some passes on my car with the new combo.

That's what she said..... and by she...I mean Carroll.

[contraption22]

That's what she said..... and by she...I mean Carroll.

Well we could thrash it together tonight.

[turboshad]

Working on the new website now.

[rx2mazda]

That's what she said..... and by she...I mean Carroll.

:lol:


Well we could thrash it together tonight.

:eyebrows:


Working on the new website now.

:banana-mario:

[BadAssPerformance]

Mopar World Finals Norwalk - Broke right side axle. Fixed that, then broke right side axle.

By "right side", he means on your right as you're standing on the splitter facing the car which would be the "driver side", or "left side" to some people... :D

[chargerturbo87]

James,
i am getting a message that your PM box is full.
Steve

[turbovanman²]

Ok, 2015 bump, get at it, :p

[Reeves]

Fired it up for the first time this season last night! New headgasket, new clutch, tidy up some stuff. Hopefully be driving it to work (100 miles round trip) the rest of the week to seat the clutch and get some seat time again for the driver.

[Reeves]

By "right side", he means on your right as you're standing on the splitter facing the car which would be the "driver side", or "left side" to some people... :D


Holy crap you are right. I just noticed this! LOL. Yes, the left side axle.

[OnLooker]

Kind of a big deal.
http://i797.photobucket.com/albums/yy258/glhs659/20160111_180533.jpg (http://s797.photobucket.com/user/glhs659/media/20160111_180533.jpg.html)

[cordes]

What mag is that?

[OnLooker]

March 2016 Hot Rod

[wheming]

I'd say that's a big deal!
Congrats!

[cordes]

March 2016 Hot Rod

Thanks a ton.


I'd say that's a big deal!
Congrats!

The deals don't get any bigger.

[83scamp]

OMG!!! The Earth has stopped turning, and the apocalypse is upon us! The Hot Rod Gods are turning over in their graves...


Not only did two FWD TM's get pictures in Hot Rod, but they got positive press as well!!!:number1:

Congrats JT & James (Pat too) You guys did all of us proud!!


I may just have to go buy this issue...

[Tony Fields]

Got my issue in the mail today!

Now I have to an autograph from both of you James and JT