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Shadow24
11-02-2009, 05:50 PM
Well, if you haven't lurked in the 3.0 section or been naughty and gone perusing on TD... heres my project.

If you want to go over to the dark side and read the original thread, it is HERE (http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11/f69/136968-p-body-24v-updates.html)

otherwise, here is a quick synopsis:

Started about 3 years ago when the 1992 Sundance Duster 3.0 5 speed i bought for $80 decided to die after busting through a 2'x3' snowbank at about 60mph. (suspect now that the heads cracked) After attempting to do an upper gasket kit to revive the motor (which didn't work) i decided to look for alternatives.

After much googling and searching i found that the 24v 3.0 in the 00-05 eclipses was nearly identical i went looking for such a motor. Found a motor for $200 about 20 minutes from my uncle's house (he has a F350 turbo diesel dually flatbed truck) and said "here's a 6-pack...go fetch?"

once I got the motor I dove right in. (mind you, most of this is before i got into the Turbo dodge world) was able to pull the old motor and trans, mate the new motor to the trans. and fab up a passenger side motor mount. After the motor was physically installed, i had to install and wire the Megasquirt.

While i got everything installed right, it took me about a year off and on to finally get the car to run. Initial attempts using the 24v distributor met in complete failure. (in retrospect, i may be able to get it to work now, but i did not have the requisite experience or information then). It took me so long because i had the car towed with me from CT to school in south western NY and worked on it when i had time. I got stuck when a misalignment between the trans and motor chewed up the ring gear on the flywheel.

That 2nd summer consisted of installing a 4 puck ceramic clutch and HD PP from FWDPerf and an OBX LSD. I also installed an EDIS-6 module with GM coilpacks and was able to start the car on spring break of 07. Took the car to school the next year and was able to go to the track for the first time. Ran 1 14.96@93mph best at NYIRP.

Since then I have fried the 4-puck, killed an OBX (case bolts failed taking the OBX out necessitating a transmission rebuild) blown the oil sender apart spinning two rod bearings, and many other issues. I now have a new OBX, a purple PP and 6-puck clutch from TU, a fidanza Aluminum flywheel, a better tune, slicks, launch control/flatshift, and other mods i can't think of.

Plans at the moment are for an M90 supercharger, intercooled with 390cc injectors. and eventually a caravan AWD system mated to the A543 (once we figure that one out lol). I have run a PB this season of 14.712@92.99mph and am looking to beat that at Turbopalooza on nov 7th.

Shadow24
11-02-2009, 08:57 PM
Here's a compilation of the build thats a lil old and a recent pass at the track for your viewing enjoyment

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/th_MyCarBuild5.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/?action=view&current=MyCarBuild5.flv)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/th_s7300260-1.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/?action=view&current=s7300260-1.flv)

Vigo
11-03-2009, 07:10 PM
AWD system mated to the A543 (once we figure that one out lol)

Its actually been figured out, check out the AWD thread in the trans section... But i dunno about pto to 3.0 block issues. I dont think anyone has tried that combo yet.

You'll definitely blow past 14.7 with slicks, launch control, and flatshift.

Glad to see you're posting over here. :)

Shadow24
11-03-2009, 10:04 PM
if i could get my whole thread over from TD, id be over here more lol.

as for the AWD, i thought as much. i just have to save the $$$ to get the parts and start playing :)

Vigo
11-03-2009, 10:12 PM
Me too:o

You dont need the whole thread.. nobody will read the old stuff unless they want to do the 24v thing too, and lets face it there's barely any 12 valvers here, let alone people wanting to swap to 24v.

Keep this thread up to date and you're all good :thumb:

Shadow24
11-11-2009, 09:06 AM
Well, not too much going on lately. Made it down to Turbopalooza but only for the after party at ken's. "Lucy" died on me on the way to the track when one of the wires to teh MS that drives one bank of injectors and 4 of the 5 grounds to the MS broke off the DB-37 connector at the MS. Had to buy a soldering Iron and use NMW2006's inverter to get her back up and working. couple that with assembling NMW2006's car sat morning, i got there at 4:50 so no runs for me :( (wanted to try launch control on the slicks to cut a better 60'...)

Once re-soldered, my tune went to crap as well. had to up my req. fuel by almost 3 whole numbers and im in the process of re-tuning the fuel table. Not sure why re-soldering the grounds and driver wire would cause the tune to go so out of whack though....

NMW2006 also noticed that im burning oil on moderate to heavy acceleration (my mystery oil consumption has been found!) im hoping its not the rings, and i started with replacing the PCV valve. I'm tempted to try some MMO in the cylinders to see if its the rings but IIRC earlier this summer when i did a compression test, all the #s were good...:confused2: any input, advice or whatnot on that?

I am tempted to try the auto-rx that Lookin has mentioned, but im too broke to buy that at the moment.

Vigo
11-11-2009, 09:45 PM
well, if you can get your hands on a leakdown tester it might tell you a bit more than the compression test.

im excited to see what you get from the launch control (whenever you get there), should be fun!

Shadow24
12-20-2009, 10:05 PM
well, i figured out some of my issues:
I replaced the o2 sensor and that fixed the sensor reading. also found out my ign connection was accidentally grounded and i've been running limp home EDIS timing of 10* since i put the new relay board in (and ran a 14.712 on 10* timing lol) car runs like a raped ape now :)

Shadow24
12-21-2009, 09:07 AM
in thinking about the spark issue, I should say im not 100% sure i ran the 14.7 on 10*. I think i may have fixed a ground issue when my car died heading to turbopalooza that caused my spark request to go to ground and EDIS defaulted to 10*...*shrug* im just happy the power and most likely the gas mileage is back:D

Vigo
12-21-2009, 10:39 PM
Glad you're still updating. Im leaning more and more towards a dohc 3.0 in my minivan these days. Funny because i started a turbo 2.5 swap and have been just a fuel pump away from finishing that since like September, and i have all the parts for a sohc 3.0 build, and im jumping 2 or 3 swaps ahead and scheming for dohc. lol.

Shadow24
12-22-2009, 07:22 PM
Thanks. Good luck whichever way you go though (personally i think the 3.0 has a TON of potential though)

Shadow24
03-22-2010, 01:01 PM
Well, National Trails is slated to open Sunday 3/28 :) Been prepping "Lucy" for the first test and tune of the year. Launch control/flatshift is wired up and ready to go. Slicks are also prepped. Hopefully I'll be able to beat my 14.712 from last season with a proper launch...

I'm also thinking of running the T-100 weds. night brackets this year. Not that i expect to win or anything, but it would be good practice.

Still trying to save to do the M90 installation, but working for a temp company isn't conducive to making good money lol

Also, going to look into having a bodyshop fix the rocker rust on "Lucy"...we'll see how bad the quote is lol

t3rse
03-22-2010, 04:52 PM
good luck!

Shadow24
04-25-2010, 10:00 PM
Well, i didn't get to go to the test and tune on 3/28 or the next one.

I did go to the first T-100 weds night and placed 2nd in class Z) (too bad points don't start until may) I got the launch control and slicks in the ballpark. 4800prm limiter, only scrubbing the slicks briefly and 22psi in the slicks. still bogs a tad on launch but not nearly as bad as before. Ran a best time of 14.705 but had to let out so i wouldn't break out...it was a 14.6 or a 14.5 run if i coulda ran it out the back door... Well see how it goes this season and i hope to bring my times down a fair bit :)

first trial run i red lit (season beginning jitters) :(
2nd Trial Run
RT - 0.134 60' - 2.154 1/8th - 9.695 MPH - 65.86 1000' - 12.811 1/4 - 15.358 MPH - 89.06

3rd Trial
RT - 0.169 60' - 2.084 1/8th - 9.443 MPH - 73.41 1000' - 12.355 1/4 - 14.792 MPH - 92.57

1st bracket (WRX STI Broke out, 13.5 on a 13.79)
RT - 0.137 60' - 2.165 1/8th - 9.507 MPH - 73.18 1000' - 12.385 1/4 - 14.814 MPH - 92.77 Shift Point - 6800 Dial 14.700 Difference - 0.114

2nd bracket (Boosted Civic - blew the ties away and was slow - 15.1 on a 14.5. I let out at least 40' from the line...glad i did let off, woulda broke out)
RT - 0.089 60' - 2.119 1/8th - 9.349 MPH - 73.80 1000' - 12.206 1/4 - 14.705 MPH - 84.77 Shift Point - 6800 Dial 14.700 Difference - 0.005

final round (04 cavalier auto - beat me with a 16.73 on a 16.71)
RT - 0.094 60' - 2.173 1/8th - 9.489 MPH - 73.38 1000' - 12.367 1/4 - 14.837 MPH - 91.48 Shift Point - 6800 Dial 14.700 Difference - 0.137

Vigo
04-25-2010, 11:30 PM
What tires is this on again?

Shadow24
04-26-2010, 06:35 AM
24.5x8 M-T slicks

Vigo
04-26-2010, 04:14 PM
Are you not launching it very hard, then? Most people with manuals and slicks are doing 1.7-1.9. Just curious!

Shadow24
04-26-2010, 04:28 PM
I'm dropping the clutch from 4800rpm full throttle (Launch control on the MS :) ) I think whats killing me is either too sticky tires or the aluminum flywheel at the moment. I stil have some things i can do to the setup to minimize bog i think

t3rse
04-26-2010, 06:16 PM
Try taking the limiter up. In fact, take it up until you spin horribly.

Shadow24
04-26-2010, 06:40 PM
I'll see what i can do with that... i think if i go too high it will interfere with the flatshift. gotta check the forums and all.

t3rse
04-26-2010, 06:52 PM
To what is your normal limiter set?

Shadow24
04-26-2010, 06:55 PM
Launch control is at 4800, flatshift limits to 5000 for the next shift (even if im shifting faster than the motor takes to wind down to 5K) . im shifting just shy of 7000 and hard rev limit is at 7200

Shadow24
04-29-2010, 07:00 AM
Well had a good day at the T-100 last night. got 3 runs in before eliminations and mas faster each run. Sadly i didn't make it past the 1st round as "Lucy" rolled back out of stage and i got an auto redlight :( I did however bust my PR by 2 tenths the following Time rial pass :) Interestingly enough, i did not change my setup at all from last week. no change in launch limiter and no change in slick pressure. i wonder if the track was just REALLY sticky last week (BTW, the left lane 60' sensor was out so thats why some runs have no 60' time)

The launches felt real good, no bogging, just some spinning as i came out of the hole. I do have some issues i need to address though, my ghetto gas tank strap fix needed ghetto rigging again (ordering new gas straps shortly) and i broke part of the front motor mount bracket (i'll get pics tonight) which caused the starter ground wire to break. i didn't know this until "Lucy" wouldn't start in the staging lanes for the 2nd trial run. luckily i had some spare wire and connectors in the trunk so i whipped up a quick fix for now.

1st Trial
RT----------60' ---------1/8-------1/8mph----1000' ------1/4-------1/4mpg
0.206------0.000-----9.489--------72.75----12.378-----14.805---92.89

2nd trial
RT----------60' ---------1/8-------1/8mph----1000' ------1/4-------1/4mpg
0.123-----2.164-------9.458-------74.32----12.339-----14.759---93.05

3rd trial
RT----------60' ---------1/8-------1/8mph----1000' ------1/4-------1/4mpg
0.119------0.000-----9.346------73.68------12.211----14.632-----92.93

1st bracket - No time :(

4th trial
RT----------60' ---------1/8-------1/8mph----1000' ------1/4-------1/4mpg
0.118------2.157------9.289-----75.60------12.132----14.530-----93.89

5th trial (missed 3rd)
RT----------60' ---------1/8-------1/8mph----1000' ------1/4--------1/4mpg
0.114------2.155------9.485-----70.12------12.486-----14.962----91.40

Shadow24
04-29-2010, 07:00 AM
double post

Vigo
04-29-2010, 08:16 AM
Sounds good! But.. there is no ground wire to the starter. You probably mean solenoid wire.

Shadow24
04-29-2010, 10:20 AM
yeah, that one lol. Im looking into either beefing up the front mount or making a custom stronger one at this point i think

Vigo
04-29-2010, 11:54 PM
Yeh the 3.0 one certainly seems weak compared to the boxed in 2.2/2.5 one. I tripped over the front mount bracket of a 3.0 i have sitting on the ground and that was enough to bend it :p

Shadow24
04-30-2010, 06:28 AM
Yeah, they are not the best and beefiest thing out there...*shrug* UPGRADE TIME!

Shadow24
05-02-2010, 08:20 PM
Well, i got a couple fixes/upgrades done to "Lucy" this weekend. I re-did the front motor mount bracket...out of 5/16 plate steel :thumb: that sucker ain't gonna break NOW! lol Once installed the new mount works GREAT! I can actually drive the car without it jerking so much now. Can't wait to see what no motor movement does at the track on weds :D

Also replaced by gas tank straps as one mount point had rusted off in the late summer 09 and lasted til now on zip-ties. i just drilled holes and put new bolts through. Also replaced the trunk struts after haven't the trunk come down on my wrist on the 21st...not anymore.

Broken motor mount - was allowing the motor to rotate and move...not good
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1161.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1162.jpg

Created initial template and sawed broken section off of old mount. This is also a comparison of the 5/16" plate steel vs the maybe 1/8" steel the old mount was made of...
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1163.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1164.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1165.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1166.jpg

Roughed out shape after hitting the plate steel with a hand band saw and a bench grinder compared to old section
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1167.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1168.jpg

Welded together (3 passes on each side to get enough heat penetration) not too shabby if i say so myself
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1170.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1173.jpg

Painted up and ready to install
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1176.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1177.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1178.jpg

Installed...i don't think the motor is going anywhere now :D
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1179.jpg

New tank straps installed before the tank fell out and something bad happened. Had to pry the old stud on the pass side off as it was so rusted away and the drivers side had already fallen off. Just drilled through the sheet steel and used grade 5 bolts and washers under the rear seat mount to sinch up the straps. All good now.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1180.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1181.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/100_1182.jpg

Shadow24
05-20-2010, 08:07 AM
Well i've been slacking in putting up my times. I woulda posted the last 2 trips to the track but i can't seem to find my slips from the other week, ill look for them and post them if i find em... (woulda been 3 but we got rained out last week :() Points racing starts this coming weds, so wish me luck!

Here is this week's outing:
I have upped my PR again as well, slowly getting the setup dialed in after almost 90 passes in the car. 14.461@94.8 I upped the slick pressure back to 20psi and it helped out, i am getting off the line a lot better than at 18psi. I also took 2nd in class again :) 3rd time this season already

1st Trial
RT----------60' ---------1/8-------1/8mph----1000' ------1/4-------1/4mph
.218-------2.231-------9.422-------74.55----12.248-----14.634------94.36

2nd Trial
RT----------60' ---------1/8-------1/8mph----1000' ------1/4-------1/4mph
.009-------2.151-------9.297-------74.81----12.112-----14.486------94.77

1st round eliminations - vs a 15.8 dialed honda hatch. Won on the brakes :)
RT----------60' ---------1/8-------1/8mph----1000' ------1/4-------1/4mph-----dial
.315-------2.245-------9.354-------74.98----12.162-----14.545------91.96-----14.4

2nd round eliminations - vs a 14.5 dialed honda hatch. Won on the brakes again...apparently he missed 3rd :confused:
RT----------60' ---------1/8-------1/8mph----1000' ------1/4-------1/4mph-----dial
.304-------2.141-------9.262-------74.94----12.072-----14.482------89.06-----14.4

3rd round eliminations - vs a 13.1 dialed turbo honda coupe (many repeat class winner, clean car :) ) lost by .0667
RT----------60' ---------1/8-------1/8mph----1000' ------1/4-------1/4mph-----dial
.344-------2.190-------9.286-------75.22----12.089-----14.461------94.80-----14.4

Shadow24
05-27-2010, 12:36 PM
well, last nite was good and bad. Made it to the semi finals in class (beat a beretta and got a buy run on a no-show) was staged at the line against a 16.85 elantra on a 14.4, tree hits the 3rd amber and dumped the clutch. POP and i went nowhere :( had to get a tow home (AAA ftw) jacked up the car and the left axle can spin with ease without turnng the right one. I'll have times and carnage pics tonite.

Gotta love the addage "if your not breaking parts, your not going fast enough" lol

Shadow24
05-28-2010, 12:02 PM
Well, i was able to tear the axles out last night and i did shear the splined end right off the passenger side axle. Luckily a long screwdriver and a few "love taps" were all i needed to get the stub piece out of the diff.

I was able to get new (not remaned) axles for 69.99 ea (GSP brand *shrug* lifetime warranty FTW though). they look ok and weigh about the same even though the axle shafts look thinner, i think they are a solid rod but im not 100% positive. the only issue i can see with the new axles is that the machining on the inner splined end wasn't finished as nicely as the stock axle. I was unable to get the axle to spline into the diff last night as there were riges intruding into the splines that i still need to clean up to get it to slide in easily. I haven't examined the hub splines yet.

The left side LOOKED ok, but im not going to chance it and im replacing that one as well. I also poured about 2 quarts of oil through the trans and diff to clear out any major metal shards (manual drain plug mod FTW here :D) She should be back up and on the road tonight or tomorrow and DEFINITELY be back for the points race next week as i am currently 3rd in points :D

Sheared axle
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/79b51d73.jpg


Old vs New
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/9750d2d4.jpg

Splining shoulder differences
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/a52cc1f3.jpg

Vigo
05-29-2010, 11:41 AM
Good job breaking those axles. :D Still wonder why you're breaking axles with street-tire-ish 60's. The slicks arent hopping right?

Shadow24
05-29-2010, 07:08 PM
thanks lol i think the axles were fatigued from all the street tire abuse when i first went to the track 3 years ago. Also AFAICT they were the original axles anyways. I only snapped the left axle but replaced both to be safe.

As for the launching. I think i have too much traction with the current setup. I'll see about upping the launch limiter up to drop me at peak torque. Currently its set at 4800-5000 and the slicks at 20psi. I'll try and log a pass on weds and see what sort of rpm drop im getting on launch.

Shadow24
06-02-2010, 10:49 PM
Well, was a decent night out at the track. Got 2 trials and through round 1 before a SEVERE thunderstorm with a tornado warning swept through and put a damper on the evening. I upped the launch RPM to 6000 and dropped the slick pressure to 18 psi. I did notice that even launching at 6000, my rpms drop all the way to about 3000 before picking up again.

i DID cut a best 60' and a new PR so not a bad night (and i won my round so 20 points for the night )

Run 1
RT______60'___1/8 mile___1/8 MPH____1000'____¼ mile ¼ mile mph
0.346___2.069__9.293_____74.24______12.129___14.55 2____93.39

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/th_100_1234.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/?action=view&current=100_1234.flv)

Run 2
RT______60'___1/8 mile___1/8 MPH____1000'____¼ mile ¼ mile mph
0.195___2.117__9.379_____74.38______12.206___14.58 8____93.88


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/th_100_1235.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/?action=view&current=100_1235.flv)

Round 1 (New PR!!! )
RT______60'___1/8 mile___1/8 MPH____1000'____¼ mile ¼ mile mph
0.465___2.019__9.184_____74.85______11.997___14.36 8____94.36

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/th_100_1238.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/?action=view&current=100_1238.flv)




And here are a couple from the previous 2 outings

5/19
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/th_100_1230.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/?action=view&current=100_1230.flv)

and 2 of the runs prior to snapping my axle on 5/26

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/th_100_1232.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/?action=view&current=100_1232.flv)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/th_100_1233.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/?action=view&current=100_1233.flv)

Shadow24
06-23-2010, 09:56 PM
Well, didn't get anywhere really on points. made 1 test pass and on the 2nd test pass, the BRAND NEW driver's side axle's outer CV joint destroyed itself. It didn't tear the boot so i'll see what the damage is when i take it apart...again :( Im wondering if i need to pony up and get a dealer axle or go j-yard hopping for a OEM one...

At least i got 10 points for passing tech...

1st test pass - Hot car, high humidity, 90+ ambient temperature
_RT____60'____1/8 ET____1/8 MPH____1/4 ET____1/4 MPH
.113___2.032___9.243______74.04______14.471____94. 13

Vigo
06-24-2010, 06:36 PM
At least i got 10 points for passing tech...

That makes me think of that funny letdown sound thats like Bwaah Bwaaah Bwaaaaaaaaaaaaah... :p

anyway, stick with it, seems your times are slowly, incrementally getting better and better.

Shadow24
06-25-2010, 12:08 PM
Yeah, the driver mod is slowly catching up to the car's potential lol

Here's the snapped axle. Broke just behind the outboard tripod. Got it warranty replaced although Advance has a catch on the GSP new axles. If the inboard shows boot damage or separation, the warranty is void. Don't know why but *shrug*

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/1b89fc9a.jpg


If this one breaks im gonna be pissed. Im already looking for a set of sanginaw's from a local J/Y just in case. If the stock sanginaw's took 260K miles and over 100 drag runs including a fair number of those wheel hopping on street tires and a "new" axle snaps on the 2nd run it kinda makes you wonder...

The replacement axle looks like they used a different shaft as it is beefier in the center. I'll post a pic up tonight before i install it.

Shadow24
07-02-2010, 10:18 AM
Well, I had bad luck at the track on weds...snapped the passenger side axle right before the outboard CV joint...only got a whopping 10 points for passing tech.

I did go to the pick-n-pull and got 1 set of saginaw axles from a vert p-Body v6 5-speed. I am thinking about going back tomorrow for another set of axles and possibly the transmission as well ....(i think its a 50% off day so...)

Im hoping these saginaws will last a long time and im going to see about returning the new ones and trying to get my money back, but we'll see. Need to get back into the hunt for season champion in class.

Im trying to keep a look out for an AWD caravan as well to snag the t-case and rear end from for the eventual AWD project, but i think that will be out of budget at this time :(

Dusty_Duster
07-02-2010, 10:14 PM
Why do you keep snapping axles? Are you using P-body axles or axles from a V6 Eclipse?

Shadow24
07-03-2010, 03:11 PM
i was using advance auto "new" axles for breaks 2 & 3. I am now back to oem saginaws from the j-yard so i hope not to break any more. We'll see weds for sure.

The "new" axles kept breaking in the same spot too... right before the outer CV joint on both sides. The 2nd drivers side axle looks comprable to a saginaw but the first one had a smaller axle shaft.

The passenger side axle was a solid axle and smaller than the oem saginaw. I think that the newest drivers side MIGHT be up to par and thats what put the load on the right side causing it to snap. (not that id trust eather "new" axle any more lol)

Shadow24
07-08-2010, 08:04 AM
Well, i survived mechanically last night. 3 passes with no major breaks. Although the snapping of 3 axles has murdered the preload in the OBX (i can spin one side with the other on the ground) that was starting to go anyways. I only got 10 points though as i supposedly redlit by not moving on the line waiting for my tree to count down (14.5 vs a 18.3, almost a 4 second wait...) At least the points leaders all got knocked out in round 2. Sadly im in 9th at the moment with 81 points and the leader is at 173, so i have 6 more races to catch up.

Hopefully next weekend i can rip the OBX out and re-fresh the preload on it as its not too fun with random pulling right or left on part throttle.

I'll also be on the lookout for getting another 3.0 saginaw drivers side axle so i have a complete spare set...just in case.

with the over 90* temps, i managed a 14.569 on my first pass spinning a bit, a 14.697 on the 2nd pass and the 3rd one was bogus (15.844 with a 3+ second 60') due to the staging system issue...they didn't re-run my round as "they didn't find anything wrong with the system" but at least one of the "big dawg" racers had the same issue i did. At least i'll be able to get in free next week...

Shadow24
07-16-2010, 06:56 AM
Well, did OK at the races on weds...got eliminated by .0098 of a second in the 2nd round. Pedaled when i should have run it out *shrug* oh well. Im still 9th in points but positions 3-9 are all separated by a max of 33 points and with 5 more races... anything is possible.

Also set a new PR by a couple hundreths and also broke into the 1.9s for 60'. Ill post vids when i get a chance.


RT________60'_____1/8 ET____1/8 mph____1000'____1/4 ET___1/4 mph
0.058_____2.005____9.124 ____74.93______11.933____14.308___94.75

0.072_____2.031____9.133____75.15______11.939____1 4.313___94.80

0.078_____1.994____9.109____75.48______11.928____1 4.413___88.13 (Round 1, dialed 14.35 )

0.116_____2.084____9.327____74.08______12.161____1 4.559___87.93 (Round 2, pedaled and lost by .0098)

0.056_____2.062____9.228____75.57______12.047____1 4.422___95.49

Vigo
07-16-2010, 12:36 PM
Woo 1.9 60! I envy you that!

Shadow24
07-16-2010, 01:04 PM
lol, only by .006 sec Im still working on balancing tire pressure and burnout time to get a good grip on the launch at 6000rpm.

I have to pull my OBX and fix the preload as i think im losing a little on the launch when it tries to torque-steer on me.

I found a link to Josh's 14.2 shadow's cardomain page over on TD...i thought his car and motor was more stock than that...i guess I'm doing pretty well for a full interior stock 24v motor car. Not sure if I'll match or break 14.2 N/A though...might need to work on the tune and the launch a bit more. Wish i could afford a good dyno tuning session to hash out the top end power more.

Shadow24
11-08-2010, 11:21 PM
Well, sad news today...Lucy is dying faster lately. The cancer that started back in CT is finally starting to have a noticeable detrimental effect.

The windshield has shifted and started leaking on the upper left corner and while the fender heights are identical, the left frame is 1/2" lower. There is also worsening rust and now a hole in the drivers floorboard near the ebrake exit.

I fear the cancer has drained too much away rom Lucy for her to continue much longer. I believe she'll survive the winter and maybe a few months past that before she fades into a crumbling shadow of her former self... with only a 14.308 @94.75 as a memory.


So...anyone have a P-body that is in decent rust free-ish shape? its transplant time!

Vigo
11-09-2010, 03:33 AM
Are you really set on doing another Pbody?

Shadow24
11-09-2010, 11:01 AM
Probably, but not 100%... the 2 body styles i like the most are the P-body and the last gen daytonas.

Only thing with the daytonas is IIRC they are a couple hundred pounds heavier than the P-bodies. but i may be able to live with that :) plus it would look similar to my wife's RX-7.

Vigo
11-09-2010, 02:39 PM
There were some trim levels of the 2g daytonas that were only like 2800 lbs.. but that is still at least 1-200 lbs heavier than the lightest stock pbody.

Shadow24
09-07-2011, 04:02 PM
Ok, i know its been almost a year since i updated this thread....BUT the car is back under the knife.


In summary, I had a PR of a 14.3XX at ~94mph with the old car (3000lbs w/ driver) and averaged high 20s to 30mpg daily driving. I think that equates to about 200whp-ish. Unfortunately the New England Salt took its toll on the car, the rear quarters and front frame were rusting out badly. The car was starting to sag at the front A pillar causing door and windshield issues. It was time to retire the original chassis.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300355.jpg


I kept my eyes out and looked at a few P-body's and daytona's but nothing came up locally within my price range that wasn't as bad or worse that what I already had. I got a tip about a decent shadow down in VA for $500. Knightmoves (aka bobby lippens) volunteered to check out the car and take some pics for me before making a call on the car. It turned out to be a decent option as it had hardly ANY rust on it at all. Supposedly had a busted motor and a recently replaced crap-o-matic slush-box, but was a solid chassis. After considering the other options I had, I jumped on the car. A big kudos to knightmoves for the assistance rendered on the retrieval trip (even though it cost him a foot.... :) ).

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0222.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0223.jpg

Once i got the car back to the in-laws in OH, it was time for a deeper inspection. Originally a dark green v6 slush-box and it was Maaco'd (or some other cheap painting method) gloss black. I kinda like the gloss black and am probably going to touch up the paint until i can CORRECTLY get it painted gloss black. One nice feature it did have, is what appears to be a factory glass sunroof. Underside was near mint, couldn't find any real rust anywhere. Odometer read 100K-ish, so not too bad. Seller said trans was replaced then timing belt broke. I had no need for the motor so that went to NMW2006 for his build and the trans will probably end up as aluminum stock if my father-in-law gets his aluminum casting hobby started.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0298.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0300.jpg

Finally got to start on the chassis switch this weekend (pulled the motor and associated bits from both cars a couple weeks ago). Pulled the auto K-frame out and am planning on swapping the 5sp K-frame from the old chassis to the new car as it is in decent shape. Also spend Monday stripping out all the wires to the PCM in the engine bay to do a PROPER wiring of the MS this time. Body harness only and MS wiring. Sure helps my father-in-law is an EE and LIKES to do wiring :). should be a nicely stock looking engine bay when we are done...

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0465.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0466.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0298.jpg

Also looking at fixing up the AC so it actually works on the car. Probably going to use hydraulic couplings to make the two sets of lines together (did the same on the HP side of the PS with good results), just need to find a way to keep the fill valves in the lines somehow... Sorta have to add the AC compressor back to switch the belt routing around to better facilitate the supercharger. Hopefully I'll get the pieces for that made up so when i can afford the rest of the parts (only need an intercooler) I can get boosted. Also will be adding a WOT cutout on the AC clutch circuit so when WOT is hit, the AC clutch disengages (or maybe anything over 80% TPS...)

We are also planning on running 3/8" feed and 5/16" return aluminum fuel lines (using ALUMINUM isolator brackets, not steel ones). Will be using the stock pump for now, but may have to go with a walbro 255 once boosted. Also may have to make some adapters to the fuel rail for the larger feed lines. I have upgraded to 3000GT VR4 fuel rails and FPR so that should be OK for what i have planned.


BTW, I have a 92 v6 5sp and a 94 v6 auto PCMs, 1 94 v6 TCM and 1, possibly 2 option dash's with tachometers for sale :)

Shadow24
10-09-2011, 12:03 AM
mmmm....shiny.....

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0472.jpg

5/16 and 3/8 stainless fuel lines, clamps and fuel filter. No more rusted fuel lines! and enough flow for what i plan (i hope!)

probably going to do SS brake hard and flex lines as well. Also picked up some POR15 and undercoat to add to the rust prevention. Do it once, do it right this time. Hopefully this will be a 10yr+ DD car when im done.

Shadow24
10-18-2011, 09:07 PM
more goodies! CuNifer brake line (copper nickel alloy) and a Misimoto intercooler 31x11x3 (scored for $100 off of CL)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0480.jpg

Shadow24
10-24-2011, 08:24 AM
Amazing what $5 in quarters and 15 minutes at the diy carwash can do for a oildirt caked k-frame!

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMAG0481.jpg

Shadow24
12-19-2011, 11:10 AM
got a little more done today. finished up working on the K-frame, A arms and sway bar. 1 coat POR-15 and 2 coats Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black :) Unfortunately, probably wont get much more done on the chassis until springtime. Hoping to get more work on the motor done though: cams, valve springs, new valves and valve stem seals in by spare heads to swap onto my motor. Also want to check on the clutch and make sure all's ok there. possibly get the S/C mount and such fabbed up as well.
POR-15, ready for chassis black
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_161749.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_170935.jpg
first coat satin black
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_172408.jpg
2nd coat semi-dry
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_204804.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111218_204849.jpg

Shadow24
12-20-2011, 12:44 PM
got the k-frame and front suspension assembled enough to roll her outside for the winter...

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111219_152532.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20111219_201440.jpg

Shadow24
10-14-2013, 10:55 AM
Massive update!

As I haven't updated this thread in almost 2 years...here is the current progress to date. If it isn't apparent, I moved from Ohio in May of 2012 to the Metro-Boston area for a better job. Unfortunately this has put a slowdown on the work to complete Lucy 2.0 until lately. I have been riding my motorcycle in to Boston for work every day but that won't be feasible through the winter. The hope is to have Lucy back on the road in time for the bad weather. There aren't a lot of things left on the "major" list to do: Finish wiring the MS, fill the brake, coolant and oil systems, and finish re-assembly of the front suspension. Other than that, it should be OK to go through the requisite inspections and whatnot to get registered in MA.

May 4, 2012
I got 90% of the engine bay scuffed up. Hoping to primer it tomorrow and color it sunday. Also POR-15'd the fuel filler tube to stave off rust. Lastly, just about got the 5-speed peddle-box swapped in. just need to get it aligned with the brake booster and tighten it up!


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120504_101354.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120504_115440.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120504_130430.jpg


May 5, 2012
actually got the primer laid down today. would have done the color too but had to attend a wedding. Should be able to spray the color tomorrow after lighly hitting the primer with some steel wool.

Air dryer and hose run from compressor


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_134156.jpg




Ready for papering
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_130414.jpg




papered


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_141330.jpg




First coat of primer
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_150230.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_151618.jpg




2nd coat of primer
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120505_152549.jpg


May 6, 2012
got the color laid down. looks pretty good for TMAAW (Two monkeys and a wrench)! Also POR-15'd the fuel tank and figured out how to put the GSS340 fuel pump in the stock hanger. Should be able to start re-assembly this afternoon.

First coat of black
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_103040.jpg




2nd coat of black


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_111344.jpg




POR-15'd fuel tank


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_121218.jpg


Fuel pump


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_125250.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_125302.jpg


May 6, 2012 - Part 2
Finished reassembly of the fuel tank and got the fuel lines pre-bent for installation tomorrow.


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_170816.jpg


ready to bend lines


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_171222.jpg


first line done - 3/8" feed


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_182507.jpg


both lines done 5/16" return


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120506_204134.jpg


May 8, 2012
Regarding the pump install, there were 4 nubs that i ground down on the actual part that clips to the pump. I'm only using the reservoir filter and the strainer on the pump as the direct pump sock wouldn't fit in the reservoir and the one from the old pump didn't fit the new pump. and yes, they are SS fuel lines.

Well, here's the update for the last two days: got the fuel lines, fuel filter tank and fill tube fully installed. Also replaced EVERY solid brake line in the whole car with copper-nickel alloy brake lines and brass fittings. Also added the 1" master cylinder for the eventual 4-wheel disc swap.

Since I was working on the brakes, i put new shoes on the rear and will be putting new pads on the front as well. I NEVER trust PO brake pads any more and its cheap insurance.

Completed the shifter cable setup for the 5-sp transmission and got the peddle box bolted in. Also got the power steering hoses ready for the install.

On the docket for tomorrow - stab the engine in, get the A/C adaption done, and start on the wiring and tidying up...hopefully with ant luck, should be good to go by Thursday.

Fuel lines installed
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120507_173931.jpg




Fuel tank and filler


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120507_114251.jpg




Fuel filter installed


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120507_173920.jpg




Brake line differences - top is OEM, bottom is CuNiFer


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120508_093703.jpg




Installed brake lines


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120508_171609.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120508_135531.jpg




Holes ready for shifter cables


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120508_212902.jpg

cordes
10-14-2013, 01:44 PM
Bump for more pics.

Shadow24
10-14-2013, 01:51 PM
Thanks Cordes!

And the update continues...

Engine bay ready for motor


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120508_215221.jpg


May 9, 2012
got a fair bit done today. motor's in, axles and front brakes are done, A/C components are at a shop for modification and the fuel system is done (except for 2 clamps I need). Hopefully I can finish the physical re-assembly and get the wiring done tomorrow. If not, I'll have to shoot for physically complete and finish the wiring once me are in Massachusetts...

Motor installed. Fastest I've ever stabbed the motor into Lucy. Total time was about 30-45 minutes
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_153634.jpg




Look ma, no more distributor! (OEM block-off from a newer 3.0 in a Montero that uses a DIS system)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_122817.jpg




The easy (and cheap) way to mod the better fuel rails...tap the rails for direct 3/8" feed! no 5/16" restriction anymore. only restriction is on the return at the FPR, at least until I can either afford a good AFPR or figure out how to mod an OEM fitting FPR.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_165807.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_172222.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_182242.jpg






Lastly, I spaced the AC bracket off with washers as the mounting hole I used originally was an AC mount hole. Also modified the sensor bracket so the belt should clear it when returning to the OEM routing.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120509_222245.jpg


May 21, 2012
Update: In boston, but the car is not driveable. Got it assembled, but ran out of time to finish the re-wire. I'll hopefully be working on the re-wire on weekends as I have to travel to my Parents place from Boston (2-hr drive) to work on the car until I find a place to live out here. I did get the dash panel made and painted with Chassis black this weekend. Hopefully I can start wiring soon!

Hacked out
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120520_123943.jpg




"precision" bent tabs (i.e. a board and a rubber hammer)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120520_124246.jpg




painted
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120520_151047.jpg


May 27, 2012
Another update! Got the dash wired up and almost completely installed. Tied everything into the body harness and wires run for the 3 sensors not in the harness (oil press/temp and oil warning light).


Got replaced as solderer...the better half put me to shame soldering
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120526_182406.jpg




dash panel wiring pretty much ready for install
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120526_195511.jpg




So, which wire goes where? :)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120527_174611.jpg




Connected and pretty much installed (still need to put a few retaining screws in)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120527_180423.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120527_180451.jpg


May 28, 2012
got more of the wiring done. Wired the A-pillar gauges to the same sources/grounds as the dash gauges. this SHOULD eliminate any voltage differences on source or ground planes. Also wired up most of the gauge sensors. Using a sandwich adapter for the 3 oil based sensors.

sandwich adapter
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120528_134447.jpg




Completed dash/A-pillar
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/IMG_20120528_134808.jpg


June 1, 2012
Update: got the modded A/C parts! everything looks good and worked on the install a bit. Its a little tight, but i think I can make it work OK :) Also need to find a name for the new car...

new A/C pump on old lines
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-06-30_10-52-36_475.jpg


A/C pump bolted in
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-06-30_15-31-23_646.jpg


top view
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-06-30_15-31-37_164.jpg



Can just clear the header...at least the header bleeds heat fairly quickly...
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-07-16_18-30-52_8.jpg


Had to hack off the passenger radiator mounting stud and the lower passenger fan mount as well to get just enough clearance
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-07-16_18-31-25_404.jpg


A/C lines WILL clear the pully, just have to tie them back a bit...not sure how to keep the lines from abrading on the lower radiator support though...
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-07-16_18-31-38_962.jpg

cordes
10-14-2013, 01:56 PM
Bump again for another update.

Shadow24
10-14-2013, 02:54 PM
September 15, 2012


so actually got to working on my MS mount plans. I'll be ditching the console bin and cup holders (boo...no cup holders anymore) and made up an aluminum panel to mount the MS, relay board and knock sense unit to. In order to accommodate the wiring and such, I hacked the bottom off the SRS module bracket and used the 4 studs where it would have attached to mount the legs of my plate. Also painted the top with chassis black to keep reflection down.


Next is to mount and wire up the MS, Knock sense and relay board so I can finish the engine wiring!


Hacked off SRS mount
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-09-15_13-34-04_414.jpg


plate and brackets (not bad for a dremel, drill and rubber mallet :) )
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-09-15_15-13-15_390.jpg


mocked up
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-09-15_15-47-29_762.jpg


painted
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-09-15_15-54-16_637.jpg


September 29, 2012


did a bit more work on the MS mounting and wiring. Its starting to come together :)


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/2012-09-29_15-12-14_57.jpg


September 28, 2013
I actually got to spend time and finish the interior wiring of the MS, knocksenseMS, LC-1 and dash connections, only thing left is the manifold line to the MS. I did it better this time so aside from the MS, relay board and such in that "pocket" of the center console, you'd never know it was Megasquirted. I may still create a cover for that area to keep it even more stealth... Now I just have to remember where all the rest of the engine bay wiring went...


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20130928_160347_zps6560ffe0.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20130928_160347_zps6560ffe0.jpg.html)


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20130928_160412_zps7f32ba8d.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20130928_160412_zps7f32ba8d.jpg.html)


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20130928_162317_zps8dade6dc.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20130928_162317_zps8dade6dc.jpg.html)


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20130928_162630_zps70edbad5.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20130928_162630_zps70edbad5.jpg.html)




September 30, 2013
Got some more wiring done in the engine bay. Ensured the starter relay was wired up OK, re-used the Fan and A/C clutch relays, re-purposed the fuel pump relay to act as an A/C cutout at WOT, and removed the ASD relay. Took a bit of time wiring them in order to make sure that everything was wired correctly (I hope). Soon I should be able to stick the battery in soon and start testing outputs and whatnot.


Unfortunately I need to get a new alternator though. The one I had was in a tote sitting on the passenger seat and apparently the sunroof leaks a little...needless to say the alternator is rusted and locked up pretty good. Time to find one from the junkyard or something. Also need to see about getting a replacement seal or figuring out where the leak is...


I also figure I can run without the A/C system charged up until the spring by just ensuring the clutch won't engage. That will allow me to run a normal serpentine belt rather than the odd off-size one I had previously.


October 13, 2013
Got a little more work done. Wrapped and re-installed the right side front lighting wiring. ran into a stopping point as I have to re-figure out the EDIS mounting and coil mounts. As I have A/C hoses back in the car, my original coil mount plate won't work. At least it's some progress. Hopefully I can put the battery in and see how it works out.


I also picked up a serial Bluetooth module so I can use MSdroid on the car once it's back up and running. Took a little, but was able to get it programmed to the right baud rate for MS. I still have to see if I need to switch two pins on the module to ensure a plug-and-play communications with the MS.


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131013_183513_zps1494b0b4.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20131013_183513_zps1494b0b4.jpg.html)

Shadow24
10-19-2013, 06:13 PM
Got some more wiring done. Had to disassemble the crank sensor connector and replace the wires (original wires were cracking) and re-did the EDIS connector so it isn't a mess of yellow spaghetti anymore. Also modified the coil bracket so it would fit in it's original place but clear the A/C lines.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131019_161948_zps170bad3e.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20131019_161948_zps170bad3e.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131019_162915_zpsd7e2c9fe.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20131019_162915_zpsd7e2c9fe.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131019_162938_zps239a81d4.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20131019_162938_zps239a81d4.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131019_125137_zpse8afbb79.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20131019_125137_zpse8afbb79.jpg.html)

Shadow24
10-20-2013, 07:42 PM
Got a lot more wiring work done. Wired in the A/C clutch finally (re-using the stock hi/low pressure switches, but if those give me issues, there is a combo hi/low switch on the newer A/c pump), wrapped up all the wiring on the right side, EDIS, VR sensor, injectors, knock sensor and coils. At least the right side is starting to look respectable, compared with the left side which is still a mess :rolleyes:. I have to give credit to anyone that does a good wiring job now. Doing this wiring the correct way (finally) really illustrates how much work a good wiring job really is...


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131020_170902_zpseefd8de6.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20131020_170902_zpseefd8de6.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131020_170909_zpsecfe3e1c.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20131020_170909_zpsecfe3e1c.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131020_170930_zps0534a2ad.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20131020_170930_zps0534a2ad.jpg.html)

Shadow24
10-30-2013, 07:51 AM
So, in my wiring work, I have discovered I am missing a couple connectors I need. If anyone has spares' I'd be grateful and can probably throw a few $$ your way.


1) Manual trans speed sensor connector (later 3-pin, not SDS sensor)
2) Manual trans backup switch connector
3) firewall blanking grommet near the trans tunnel

Shadow24
11-04-2013, 09:58 AM
Worked on the wiring a bit more today, forgot that the EDIS-6 module fires the coils in an ACB sequence and I had them wired up for ABC. Luckily the fix was to pull the connector apart and switch the B and C pins to match the correct firing sequence.


I am a bit stumped on a connector though. It SEEMS to be an optional Daytime Running Light connector (Canadian Only) according to my 1993 FSM, but I was hoping I could get confirmation. This is wired in with the drivers side front lighting connectors.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131103_173202_zpsd4966477.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20131103_173202_zpsd4966477.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131103_173139_zpse346e88a.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20131103_173139_zpse346e88a.jpg.html)


Unfortunately, I am almost to a point where I am stuck on the wiring, due to missing the speed sensor connector and reverse light connector mentioned in my previous post. If anyone has spares, I'd be grateful :).


I also noticed that the dampers on the car are TOAST! the rear has the typical P-body squat indicative of dead rear dampers, and the right front is sagging close to the wheel with little to no compression or rebound. The driver's side front SEEMS ok, but I'd rather replace all 4 corners. I'm torn between finding a good front cartridge insert (Bilstein) or getting some medium OEM ones until I can afford better dampers. I know I could put KYB GR2's in the rear, but I may look at the Ranchero's in the interum and hopefully go to either the QA1's or do a whole car BC coilover kit.




In other news, the original P-body shell is no more. My Father-in-law has been having too much fun with his sawsall... It also is a bit scary how much rust was happening on that car. It was basically unsafe to drive at the end by the looks of things. Big hole in the driver's floorboard, bad rust holes in critical frame spots and more.


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/P102813_1800_zpsb892aad0.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/P102813_1800_zpsb892aad0.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/P110313_1237_zps0e6019f6.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/P110313_1237_zps0e6019f6.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/P110313951240_zps5f1cc2ff.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/P110313951240_zps5f1cc2ff.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/P110313951238_zpscf3cc2ca.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/P110313951238_zpscf3cc2ca.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/P110313951241_zps1330437b.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/P110313951241_zps1330437b.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/P110313951243_zps5efd674b.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/P110313951243_zps5efd674b.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/P110313951628_zpsd2b451e4.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/P110313951628_zpsd2b451e4.jpg.html)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/P110313_1629_zps7bd7d709.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/P110313_1629_zps7bd7d709.jpg.html)

Shadow24
11-11-2013, 10:20 AM
Got a bit more done, finished wiring up some pigtails for sensors and diagnosed a short in my dash gauge's power supply. Dash now lights up and appears to function on key-on along with the MS appearing to power up correctly :) Hopefully snagging a new speed sensor for it's pigtail and wiring up the rest of stuff needed to start fully testing the MS I/O and getting it ready to start it up!


I'll probably leave the driver's side wiring open for the time being until I get the car running, that way I can be sure everything is OK when I button up the harness permanently.

Shadow24
12-02-2013, 12:02 PM
spent nearly all day Sunday working on the car. got almost all the wiring buttoned up, but a few gremlins cropped up.
1) Oil temp gauge pegs at max temp on key-on
2) Wipers come on when high-beams are triggered (high beam indicator also doesn't illuminate)
2a) when the wipers come on due to the high beam, a couple of the gauges keep resetting like either the ground or +12v is dropping out.


Switched out the oil filter, added oil (0W20 Mobil 1), wired up the starter, but didn't test it yet. Also got the alternator installed and belted up. This is probably the first time since I've owned the motor that the correct alternator belt has been used, since the belt runs over the now-present A/C pump :D. I lucked out on testing out the IAC stepper motor as it worked from the get-go. Hopefully I'll be ready to see if she starts in the next couple days!


To-do list so far
1) get and fill Power Steering
2) get another bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid, fill and bleed brakes
3) fill transmission with Royal Purple 5W30
4) fix electrical gremlins (any ideas anyone?)


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131201_111553_zps25d3e489.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/20131201_111553_zps25d3e489.jpg.html)

Sundance 6g72
12-03-2013, 07:52 PM
curious on the oil choice, why such a light oil?

Im sure it does not matter much but i usually went pretty thick and had good results (Rotella 15 40)

Shadow24
12-04-2013, 10:12 PM
Well, got far enough to try and get a pop and a bang out of the car. After a few hurdles (bad injector o-ring, having to jack up the rear of the car to get the fuel pump to prime and bleeding out the fuel system) she actually ran! Ran porly I'll admit, but the MS was not connected to the MAP line and there were some large vacuum leaks after the throttle causing it to run really rich. But it proves that everything needed for combustion is working.


I still have a LOT of work to do on the car, but at least I can say the motor is mechanically sound and working again!


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/th_20131204_191735_zpsa5eda108.jpg (http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20131204_191735_zpsa5eda108.mp4)

Shadow24
12-04-2013, 10:15 PM
curious on the oil choice, why such a light oil?

Im sure it does not matter much but i usually went pretty thick and had good results (Rotella 15 40)

I went with 0W20 after losing all my oil due to over-pressurization. I had the original oil pressure sender blow apart in 3rd gear going down the track, which cost me 2 rod bearings. That was with factory 5W30 oil. I was hitting way too high oil pressures with 5W30 so I backed down the viscosity to 0W20 and haven't had any issues since. There is a rule of thumb I try and follow, which is 10psi pressure for every 1000rpm. even going to 8000rpm, that is only 80psi. I have seen my pressure gauge go past 100psi on 5W30.

c2xejk
12-05-2013, 01:31 PM
2) get another bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid, fill and bleed brakes

Why DOT 4? I have heard that stock it contains air and can cause a soft pedal, especially if you are changing altitude.


3) fill transmission with Royal Purple 5W30

Does Royal Purple 5w30 contain ZDDP? If not you are probably better off going with a MTL of some type.

Ondonti
12-06-2013, 01:35 PM
I went with 0W20 after losing all my oil due to over-pressurization. I had the original oil pressure sender blow apart in 3rd gear going down the track, which cost me 2 rod bearings. That was with factory 5W30 oil. I was hitting way too high oil pressures with 5W30 so I backed down the viscosity to 0W20 and haven't had any issues since. There is a rule of thumb I try and follow, which is 10psi pressure for every 1000rpm. even going to 8000rpm, that is only 80psi. I have seen my pressure gauge go past 100psi on 5W30.
Remember how much larger your pump gear is then the 12v or dohc turbo gear?

Aries_Turbo
12-06-2013, 08:41 PM
that rust on the old car is no way near as bad as some of my old winter beaters :)

if you dont want this one to end up the same way, dont drive it in the winter.

btw, is that a furnace fuel oil filter you are using for the fuel? are those housings rated for the pressure? for gas itself?

looking good though. i remember that oil sender nightmare. not a good night.......

Brian

Shadow24
12-07-2013, 08:22 PM
Ondonti - the SOHC 24v pump IS bigger than the 12v. See below:

24v pump
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300002.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/s7300002.jpg.html)

12v pump
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/s7300003.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/shadowplane676/media/s7300003.jpg.html)

Aries-Turbo: Yeah, it may not have looked bad, but the structural integrity was SHOT. The car was sagging badly at the firewall, and the rear was about ready to go as well. Regarding the fuel filter, its a JEGS performance filter, rated for gas and 100PSI. Trust me, I checked before I bought it :).

Yeah, It wasn't a good night when I lost the oil pressure sensor. Again, thanks for the help that night.


and here's the actual update:

spent a good 5 hours working on the car today. Re-ran the sensor and ground wires for two of the gauges giving me issues. This fixed one, but not the other. Turns out my oil pressure sensor is shot, and I had to order a new one (tested as No-connect between terminals, rather than the 3-ohms it should have). Also finished wiring up the IAC permanently, and finished replacing the crummy original battery connectors. This and connecting up an errant body ground or two also fixed the random wiper triggering and oddities with the lights/high beams. Also installed the intake piping for now, just have to find and connect the PCV hose from the intake to the rear valve cover.


When I briefly ran the motor earlier, I found I had a few fuel leaks. Two were on the home-built fuel rail loop adapters. Pulled those out and re-teflon-taped them and tightened them up a bit. Hopefully this takes care of the fuel rail part of the leaks. I still have a couple leaks by the fuel filter to stop up as well.


I also got my Gabriel Ultra dampers for all 4 corners. Hopefully this raises the rear and balances the front out from it's current ----eyed stance.


I think I have most of the wiring connected, might get a better run out of the motor tomorrow once I connect the MAP line to the MS. The car seems to be coming together finally...

Aries_Turbo
12-08-2013, 01:27 AM
Aries-Turbo: Yeah, it may not have looked bad, but the structural integrity was SHOT. The car was sagging badly at the firewall, and the rear was about ready to go as well. Regarding the fuel filter, its a JEGS performance filter, rated for gas and 100PSI. Trust me, I checked before I bought it :).

Yeah, It wasn't a good night when I lost the oil pressure sensor. Again, thanks for the help that night.



my old aries that was insane rotted was probably structurally shot too but i didnt care. as long as it didnt fold up (which it didnt) and it kept absorbing deer without popping the radiator, i didnt care. :)

interesting on the JEGS filter housing setup. im going to head over to their site and check it out. it looks so much like an oil furnace oil filter that i use on my furnace :)

no problem. i was glad to help. :)

Brian

Ondonti
12-08-2013, 05:17 AM
I was not asking if your pump was larger I was reminding you that your oil pump is larger so I don't know how that messes with oil pressure up top. I know they like to run thinner oil in newer motors to eek out more fuel economy and maybe they put in oil pumps that are too aggressive OR your relief valve/passage does not do its job in high flow situations. Heard of people messing with those.

Shadow24
12-08-2013, 09:50 AM
Ondonti - point taken. The oil relief valve is unmolested currently so =shrug=. if I have to tear the pump off again, I'll look at the relief passages.

Aries-Turbo - here's the filter I believe I'm using. I remember asking the Jegs rep if it would handle fuel injection pressure and was assured it would. The leaks I'm having around the filter are with the 3/8 NPT adapters, not with the filter itself. Just like the fuel rail, a re-sealing with more teflon tape should do the trick.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/15170/10002/-1

Aries_Turbo
12-08-2013, 03:19 PM
its a fuel filter but its super similar to this.

http://www.hardwarestore.com/fuel-oil-filter-605261.aspx

Brian

Shadow24
12-08-2013, 11:20 PM
Aries_Turbo - that is hilarious! they do look almost identical in form...makes you wonder!

Spent about 6 hours working on the car today. Got a LOT done. replaced all four dampers (man the old ones were shot). AFAICT, they are ORIGINAL Chrysler dampers... they were easily compressed by hand and had very little to no rebound in them at all.


Buttoned up the front suspension by installing the sway bar, filled the transmission, power steering and coolant system, got part of the way done with re-installing the dash, and located the leak on right rear tire (needs cleaned and re-seated). It's getting VERY close to being buttoned up, which is nice :D.


Still have to fill and bleed the brakes though, THEN I should be able to take it for a spin around the block, and hopefully get it on the road shortly after that, provided it passes MA inspection...

Shadow24
12-10-2013, 10:59 AM
Took the rear tire to Firestone to get it cleaned and re-seated (bead leak) and was informed that the rim is nearly shot. They had to use rubber sealant on the lip of the rim to seal the tire back up. Another hurdle I didn't need, as all 4 steel rims are in the same condition of rusting. (Don't suppose anyone in NE has 4 51x6 steelies for cheap?). Haven't gotten to do much on the running part of the car due to weather and time constraints, but hopefully soon. Also got my replacement oil pressure sensor to install. Now it is down to the little things I think.

Aries_Turbo
12-10-2013, 07:59 PM
rims shot? probably just need the tires completely removed and the spot where the bead seals wire wheeled/ground/coated again.

i have some pretty nasty winter wheels that seal just fine after i take a grinder with a knotted wire wheel to them.

Brian

cordes
12-10-2013, 08:23 PM
rims shot? probably just need the tires completely removed and the spot where the bead seals wire wheeled/ground/coated again.

i have some pretty nasty winter wheels that seal just fine after i take a grinder with a knotted wire wheel to them.

Brian

Al wheels can be hit with a wire wheel to make them like new. Steel wheels are a different story. I've done thousands of each.

Aries_Turbo
12-10-2013, 10:21 PM
ive been running steel wheels on my beaters in NY for years (salt heaven.... 15 min from a mine) and have cleaned rust off of them multiple times between sets of tires.

what has happened to the ones that you deem to be unusable? just curious.

Brian

Shadow24
12-11-2013, 11:09 AM
Hmm, well I had a leak around the bead which, according to the tech, took at least two sanding discs to try and get clean. They resorted to sealing the bead with some rubber sealant. Other than that and a lot of surface rust, the rims seem structurally sound. I have been meaning to clean up the rims with a wire wheel and POR-15 then paint them for years, just never got around to it...

Shadow24
12-13-2013, 09:33 AM
Unfortunately, the right rear tire still leaked down. I doubt the rim will hold air anymore. I'll probably pick up a replacement junkyard rim tomorrow for $25 and see about getting the tire switched over.


Still having trouble starting it, but I think I have to "precision adjust" my crank sensor with a crowbar or hammer :p. Once I get a consistent clean RPM signal into the MS, it should fire up just fine. Still have the old tune and configuration loaded, so I should be starting from a pretty good spot. Then I can upgrade to the latest 3.3.1 MS-Extra code :D

Ondonti
12-13-2013, 12:51 PM
Does your MS have a common ground with your sensors?
I wanted to know if you still had a piece of Lucy to measure the thickness of the sheet metal in the roof or 1/4 panel for sound dampening reasons.

I have a rim that leaks like yours but holes air for a week or 2 or whenever I remember it doesn't hold air. Junkyards never have aluminum rims these days so finding another set of our OEM rims is impossible. Wire wheeling some OEM rims I don't like also doesn't seem to be an enticing idea to me since I don't have tire irons or want to mess with car tires.

Kinda guessing that blockoff plate would fit a 12 valve though I have had interest in using the AEM sensor up there at some point. You only have a crank signal right now right? I am not sure if all stuff is really justified just to run sequential injection.

Shadow24
12-13-2013, 03:33 PM
Does your MS have a common ground with your sensors?
I wanted to know if you still had a piece of Lucy to measure the thickness of the sheet metal in the roof or 1/4 panel for sound dampening reasons.


I upgraded and corrected some grounding issues when I rewired the MS this time around. Main sensors used MS dedicated grounds, and MS is grounded to the battery. Gauges are also grounded to the battery on a combined ground. I have resolved the gauge issues as well, so everything should be good to go.



I have a rim that leaks like yours but holes air for a week or 2 or whenever I remember it doesn't hold air. Junkyards never have aluminum rims these days so finding another set of our OEM rims is impossible. Wire wheeling some OEM rims I don't like also doesn't seem to be an enticing idea to me since I don't have tire irons or want to mess with car tires.

I have steel wheels, so those are plentiful in the junkyard. As long as the one I get isn't as rusty as my current one I should be OK. The Alloys I have are 17x7's, but I can't quite justify $500 for tires on those...yet :D



Kinda guessing that blockoff plate would fit a 12 valve though I have had interest in using the AEM sensor up there at some point. You only have a crank signal right now right? I am not sure if all stuff is really justified just to run sequential injection.

Which blockoff are you referring to? I don't see a reason ATM to go sequential injection either. I'm using the majority of the I/O's on my MSII and don't want to shell out for an MSIII/MSX upgrade. It runs just fine on alternating banks with 6 shots, so no real worries there.

Shadow24
12-23-2013, 06:12 PM
Update: got the motor running finally. was chasing my tail on a no RPM problem, but it turned out to be the $0.10 roll pin indexing the crank pulley to the crank that sheared. Once I got that sorted, it ran good for a while then stalled and wouldn't restart. That issue was fuel not getting to the pump pickup, which took me 3 days to figure out. 3 gallons later and everything is running well again.


I think my coolant sensor is dying as it isn't reading correctly (it is reading low). Should be an easy fix, considering I put this sensor in back in '06 when I swapped the motor originally. But with the rear tire issue fixed, I am now down to reassembling the interior, tracking down an oil leak, and filling and bleeding the brakes. then it's time for the first test drive in a few years! :)

Shadow24
08-07-2014, 11:27 AM
Update - Lucy is now prowling the streets again! Over the weekend I returned to Ohio and got the last touches done for Lucy to be put back on the road. This was mainly an alignment (Firestone Lifetime Alignment FTW :) ) and ensuring the A/C was working. We were able to get everything hooked up for A/C and it took a charge well. I consider this quite a success as Lucy is using a 2001 Mitsu compressor coupled to the factory 1994 shadow condenser, receiver/dryer and evaporator system. Unfortunately while charging the system, the low pressure schraeder valve is no longer fully sealing. The valve cover appeared to stop or heavily mitigate the leak, but I suspect I need to replace the valve and re-charge to permanently keep the A/C working.


We also ran into issues on the 900 mile drive from Ohio back to Tulsa. The fuel gauge is not accurate (I suspect a wiring/resistance issue) and we ran out of fuel once. Luckily a good Samaritan stopped and I was able to get a ride to pick up a couple gallons of fuel to limp Lucy to the gas station a couple miles away. Lucy is not making anywhere near the power she did in the previous iteration, and her fuel mileage is an astonishingly low 19 to 20 MPG. I believe I have a fuel supply issue as she was running lean and a good 15* to 25* hotter than usual. I used to never see coolant temps over 200*, but we were pushing 220* cruising at 70 on the highway. First thing to check I think, will be the fuel filter. Hopefully it is just a clogged up element and not a bad fuel pump or other issues.

Shadow24
08-09-2014, 09:16 AM
Well, I bypassed the Jegs filter I had installed and it did fix a good bit of the fuel starvation issue. Still not back to 100% of pre-swap power, but it at least drives a heck of a lot better. I believe the wbo2 and the TPS on the 65mm throttle are now what are giving me issues. the TPS keeps changing so my accel enrich is all over the place and the o2 keeps conking out on me, requiring a reset to start working again.

Ondonti
08-09-2014, 02:34 PM
TPS accel worked for me previously but now on this new firmware I can't use it. Had to go to MAP. My car felt gutless with the TPS enrichment wacking out.

Shadow24
08-13-2014, 10:46 AM
So...I figured out one reason why I haven't had full power on Lucy....Some idiot forgot to properly secure the throttle cable! The sheath had pulled toward the throttle enough that matting the petal only netted about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle angle. I think I will be building a proper bracket this time instead of the pseudo-bracket clamp thing I used on Lucy 1 (or the zip-ties that are currently holding it in place). It still feels like I am not running right above 5000rpm, but once I get the throttle fixed, fuel filter replaced, fuel pressure verified and o2 sensor rectified, I should be able to see what's truly going on with the AFRs.

Ondonti - I may end up going to MAP accel or EAE as I seem to be having similar TPS trouble. We shall see what upgrading from 3.2.1 to 3.3.2 does.

c2xejk
08-13-2014, 12:55 PM
Once tuned, you will like EAE. It transitions fueling much smoother than the accel enrichment...

Shadow24
09-02-2014, 12:31 AM
So I got a little more work done on Lucy today. I made up and installed a throttle bracket to keep the throttle from moving around on me. I also located the major exhaust leak (about 1" from the o2 sensor). The gasket between the collector an the catalytic converter was shot and 2 of 3 mounting bolts were MIA. replaced the gasket and got new bolts with lock washers to seal up the exhaust system. I still have backfires occasionally going between deaccel and tipin, but hopefully with the leak fixed, I can see if the AFRs were reading off and correct the issue. I suspect a possible over-fuel issue due to the exhaust leak skewing the sensor readings. I also STILL haven't upgraded to the latest MS-II/E code, yet. That is definitely on the list due to the massive number of refinements from my current code variant (3.2.1) to the current 3.3.2 or so.


I haven't had time to diagnose the A/C leak, (I suspect the ONE hose-clamp connection in the system slipped due to high pressure) but I did replace the one valve core that was a potential leak. Hopefully I can get the system vacuumed down and re-filled soon (A/C was nice to have in 90*+ weather!)


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j16/shadowplane676/20140901_150428_zpskmos8dzd.jpg

Shadow24
11-10-2014, 12:48 AM
Well, another wrench in the works. Lost both the power steering and alternator belts, resulting in the timing belt jumping time again. I haven't been able to test to ensure valves aren't bent, but I'm hopeful. The crank pulley is only 2 teeth off, which is 30 crank degrees. The serpentine belts tore up the lower timing cover so I have to get a replacement. Upon dis-assembly, it appears my tensioner is shot as well as it had loose play in it. Additionally, the roll pin indexing the crank pulley to the crank sheered and had to be drilled out again. I'm also looking at replacing the crank sprocket as I have drilled out that roll pin twice before and it is showing signs of wear from the re-drilling. I just have to scrounge up the funds for a timing belt kit...


In other news, the issue with the A/C going out was the pressure relief valve blowing on the compressor (exceeding 500psi). It looks like the rest of the system is OK, but I think the Dodge high pressure switch is not functioning. I am going to see if I can adjust the wiring to tie the multi-switch on the compressor into the circuit instead to stave off an over-pressure situation again.