SC Intercooler placement

[The S is Silent]

I finally got around to mounting the intercooler in my shelby charger today, and I'd like some input on things. The car has no engine in it as of yet, so I don't know where things like the alternator and other accessories are going to be during the final install. I have a spearco with 3x6x18 inch core that I'm going to mount. I have the front fascia off, and the plan is to use z brackets to mount the IC to the front bumper. The core is long enough to fill up the center and one of the side holes in the fascia. I have 3 options...

1) Stock radiator in the stock location. The intercooler would fill up the 2 fascia slots towards the driver side, and I'd run the pipes across the engine compartment. All three pipes would have to be run, because I'd like to draw in air from the 3rd fascia slot. That's a lot of plumbing running across the engine compartment.

2) Stock radiator moved over 3 or 4 inches. The intercooler would fill up the 2 fascia slots towards the passenger side, and I'd run the pipes directly forward from the turbo/TB into the gap.

3) GLHS radiator in the stock location. I could disconnect the intercooler and just run the pipes through the void that it left. I would like to do this one if I could find a GLHS radiator, because I could use the stock mounting points. Everything would look cleaner.

What do ya'll think? In each of the setups, I have the room to put the air filter in the 3rd fascia slot to get cold air.

[cordes]

You can check out how I did my spearco IC in my omni. You have a lot more room to work with in the nose of the SC than I did in the omni, so it should simplify a few things. Obviously, I would recommend using a TII rad sans IC and just running the piping through the void.

[GLHS592]

How about this: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15434&postcount=4

[The S is Silent]

Cordes...putting the IC up front in the nose makes it so much easier for the charger. I know how I'm going to mount it...I already have the brackets made up. Right now it's just a matter of which way to point the inlet and outlet, and how far to the right or left to mount it.

Kevin, what are the dimensions of the core of your IC? I really like how you cut away the opening to allow the entire IC area to be exposed, but I don't think I would be able to re-finish the pieces, so I don't want to hack them up just yet. Did you mount your's to the bumper? I found that it is very convenient that the opening in the bumper is slightly smaller than 6". Just big enough to put a 6" IC core in the opening.

I see that both of you used the GLHS rad. It is the way I want to do it, but I need to find one first. I'm hoping somebody has one for sale.

[cordes]

I used a rad from a TII daytona. They are only 2" wider IIRC, and they can be found for a reasonable price. The one in my omni set me back $50.

[The S is Silent]

So the stock driver side mounts can be used, but one has to be fabbed up for the passenger side if I use the daytona/shadow radiator/IC combo stuff?

[cordes]

There are several ways to do it. The way I did it was due to the fact that I don't have acess to a welder.

You can grind off the spot welds in the bracket and tack it up were it needs to be which is the prefered method.

[GLHS592]

Kevin, what are the dimensions of the core of your IC? I really like how you cut away the opening to allow the entire IC area to be exposed, but I don't think I would be able to re-finish the pieces, so I don't want to hack them up just yet. Did you mount your's to the bumper? I found that it is very convenient that the opening in the bumper is slightly smaller than 6". Just big enough to put a 6" IC core in the opening.

I honestly can't remember what the length of my intercooler is. I remember that it is 4" thick, about 8" tall, and the cooler with end tanks is slightly wider than the airdam opening. I did mount my intercooler to the bumper.

Cutting the bumper and airdam to increase airflow to the intercooler was pretty easy. If you do it right, all you'd have to refinish would be the flat black paint in the opening. Cut the dividers out and "glue" some plastic in the holes with rubber bumper epoxy. Smooth it out, tape it off, and paint it.


I see that both of you used the GLHS rad. It is the way I want to do it, but I need to find one first. I'm hoping somebody has one for sale.

I used a modified Daytona turbo II radiator. I did a write up on it here: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1472

[The S is Silent]

You both fooled me. Shame on you. ;)

Modifying the G-body radiator doesn't look too bad. I think I could swing it without too much trouble. Know anybody with a TII rad sitting around they could part with? I need it ASAP!

[The S is Silent]

w00t! I found a GLHS rad for $35!!! It needs to be re-cored, but that's no biggie!

[cordes]

w00t! I found a GLHS rad for $35!!! It needs to be re-cored, but that's no biggie!

Dear diary,

Jack pot!

[rbryant]

The end tanks on a Daytona radiator are very similar to a GLHS radiator. Other than the extra coolant return line that could be added if you just put a 2" narrower core in the Daytona rad it would be pretty much plug and play.

-Rich