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85lebaront2
10-30-2009, 11:48 AM
As some of you know my original "toy" was totalled by a woman in a Mercedes ML320 back in February. I am reconstructing things into a 1986 Konvertible. I will put some pictures of the original build-up, engine, wiring, etc. on here.
The 85 started out with a 2.6L Mitsubishi, after finding 3 cracked combustion chambers, I decided to accelerate my Turbo conversion. I saved the TurboII package, top, wiring, and most of the parts I had replaced along with the external modifications like power side mirrors.
The new body will have a few changes, like changing to a SBEC and sequential injection from the present 87 Daytona two part system. I am trying to adapt a 1989 J body dashboard so I can have nice analog gauges. K cars had two choices, Analog speedometer with mostly idiot lights, or digital.

Vigo
10-30-2009, 12:08 PM
Oh i love the old k-convertibles!! Cant wait for pics!

blk86trbo
10-30-2009, 11:09 PM
Aww man, sorry to hear about your accident, hopefully you weren't hurt. Did you post a thread about the incident?

Best of luck with your new project, sounds very interesting! :thumb:

85lebaront2
11-18-2009, 11:04 AM
Aww man, sorry to hear about your accident, hopefully you weren't hurt. Did you post a thread about the incident?

Best of luck with your new project, sounds very interesting! :thumb:

I think I did post it, it may have been on the other site. No I wasn't really hurt, just a bit POd over it. The reason for the body change is just that, Chrysler changed the rear completely in 1986. As a result, I can't use the 86 right quarter on the 85, I would have to use the entire rear clip. I started stripping the 85 Sunday.

Vigo
11-18-2009, 12:38 PM
I started stripping the 85 Sunday.

So thats why we havent seen any sweet pics yet? :p

85lebaront2
11-18-2009, 12:46 PM
Basically, i will try to put the engine build up and wiring pics on when I get some time. I will also be selling a lot of the extra 85 parts for anyone interested.

Vigo
11-18-2009, 12:52 PM
Is the left tail on the 85 still good? If its the same as the ones on my 84 executive sedan i may be able to use it and those older ones are hard to find..

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/Vigo327/DSC04056.jpg

only pic i could find of the taillight.

85lebaront2
11-19-2009, 08:09 AM
Looks like the same, and yes it's good, and I have a spare right. I think the front end parts may be the same too and I know from experiance that the headlight doors are a big problem. Let me know if you want any of it as the 86 is completely different on both ends.

2.216VTurbo
11-19-2009, 09:49 AM
Sounds like a cool project, something tells me that you have the follow-thru to make it happen:thumb: Nice plate on the 85 BTW:eyebrows:

BIGBRUDDA
11-19-2009, 10:28 AM
I had an 84 400 convertible. .It got wiped out by a Thunderbird. Loved it while I had it.Great car for road trippin. Big trunk,32MPG.
There's a mom&pop lot here in cincy with a white 85 dodge 400 2 dr, 30k miles.From an estate sale. Very good lookin car. But they're askin $3000.

85lebaront2
11-19-2009, 10:49 AM
Sounds like a cool project, something tells me that you have the follow-thru to make it happen:thumb: Nice plate on the 85 BTW:eyebrows:

Thanks, I got the plate a couple of years ago, it is currently on my daily driver, a 95 Subaru Impreza AWD. I have to keep it current or risk losing the sequence to someone else.

85lebaront2
07-02-2010, 03:39 PM
I guess I should update this a bit. I bought a hybrid head setup for later use on a 2.5L common block. I have purchased an SBEC from turbovanman and it is being delivered by a friend who is currently in Seattle, but will be coming back this way starting Sunday. The powertrain from the 85 is out along with all the chassis wiring. The 85 body (pretty much stripped bare) is history (it'l come back as several Hondas no doubt).

85lebaront2
12-05-2018, 10:33 PM
Damn, I guess I better get busy on some updates, retiring and moving to a more rural area both hurt and helped. I have the time to devote, but not as much access to parts. The 1986 konvertible sat in my back yard from when I bought it until the city of Newport News had a push (supposedly due to a complaint) and even though the car was in a fenced yard it had to be (a) licensed, (b) inspected and (c) operational. Fence was a 6' high privacy fence and I am pretty sure where the "anonymous complaint" came from. I have a good friend who owns a towing service/junkyard/repair and body shop. He stored it for me, but I think during one of the storms we had it got something blown into the top breaking the right quarter window and bending the frame, it had also gotten water up deep enough to pretty well rot the floor. We traded a bunch of repairs on his late father's Chevstang (LTI swapped into a 67 6 cyl model) for new floors and a bunch of other parts. He actually went out and bought a 1988 Reliant for parts! It was picked up and brought home to the Eastern Shore of VA in October. T2 engine is back in place, I am still trying to find all the parts, but it is progressing. I will post some pictures when I get some time to go back and get them in Chronological order.

85lebaront2
12-07-2018, 07:52 PM
The original was totaled by a Mercedes-Benz ML320 in Feb 2009. I had purchased a 1986 LeBaron convertible for parts, so it would have to become the new T2K-CAR. As I planned some things, one of the issues with the K-cars is the instrument panel, the opening is shorter top to bottom than the later cars and wider side to side. Options are an analog speedometer, temperature and fuel gauge with idiot lights or with the LeBarons and Dodge 400/600 a digital unit with bar graph gauges and a 0-99 mph speedometer, with a warning module, Traveler or bar graph tachometer. It is an impressive looking but as I learned not super accurate piece. Chrysler changed the dash and instrument panel design with the G body (Laser/Daytona) introduction in 1984, instrument area is taller and narrower, in 1987 with the new LeBaron 2dr coupe and convertible (J-body) replacing both the K-body convertible and Laser, the dash in the new LeBaron became shared with the Daytona.

Since almost everything Chrysler was building outside of the L-body shares a lot in structure and physical dimensions, I decided a dashboard upgrade was in order. I had a 1989 LeBaron coupe with a totally shot steering rack and an unknown condition 2.5L turbo engine and A413 (can't tell much other than it ran and didn't knock without being able to drive it) so the 89 dash went into the 86, some stuff had to be modified, but the Laser column I had fit perfectly to the dash, the center took some fitting to mate with the center reinforcement, but with the trim panels on fits well.

85lebaront2
12-07-2018, 08:01 PM
First thing I ran into, the car has been sitting, first in my backyard, then at a friend's Tow storage lot. He delivered it to me after noticing that a large storm had blown something into the right side, breaking the quarter glass and bending the top frame.

After getting the pretty well destroyed top off the car and starting an inventory, I found the carpet was rotten, and I had a bunch of holes in the floor.

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The 86 was a basic 2.2L with analog dash, but power windows and seats. The engine had quite obviously failed, mostly due to the vent hose to the air cleaner being crimped shut to keep oil from getting in the air cleaner!

I did stick a borescope in the cylinders after finding that the engine would barely even turn with the starter. #1 cylinder had furrows in the wall, so other than boring it the engine is scrap. Transaxle oil was burned also.

The front mount was broken at all but the lower bolt to the transaxle and there was a piece of metal strapping like you would hang pipe from running from the top of the radiator support to the cylinder head. As a result of this the lower front crossmember is dented forward and cracked where the front mount was trying to shove the crossmember forward (originally there was a bungee cord trying to hold it).

85lebaront2
12-07-2018, 08:05 PM
Since I found that I had a broken rear sway bar tube and had a 1989 LeBaron coupe parts car, I decided I would go strip it for the suspension and 2.5L turbo powertrain (less camshaft). I went to my friend's junkyard with truck and cargo trailer so I, with the help of one of his crew, could strip what was usable off the car. After refreshing my memory of the 89 I decided that all of the suspension and brakes were going to be used. (89 had 4 wheel disc brakes). We removed the front suspension and drivetrain as a package and loaded them in the trailer. After that, the complete rear with the brake cables cut just ahead of the connector, salvaged the master cylinder and proportioning valve along with all the rear hoses.

85lebaront2
12-07-2018, 08:09 PM
Meanwhile on the front of the car, I had been there earlier and gotten the front harness and decided since I was going to be using the 1989 dash, it would be easier to use the 89 front harness and just eliminate the air bag and headlight motor portions. I had already planned on using a socketed 1990 SBEC with turbo II program in it as I wanted (A) to do away with the LM/PM 1987 Daytona system I was running and (B) get sequential injection. I also wanted to use a later PDC to do away with the relays bolted on the fender/shock tower and fusible links.

First issue, 1989 J-body has an "inverted" harness connection to the 1986 K-body. Two solutions, (A) cut the dash penetration area and change it to meet the 1986 design or (B) drill a large enough hole centered on the existing rectangular hole and use the 1989 connections. After determining that the 1989 harness socket mount on a brace fit into the 1986 body perfectly, option (B) became the better solution. I found that the 1989 harness had the wiring for the charge temperature sensor already in it and only needed the additional two injector wires.

85lebaront2
12-07-2018, 08:14 PM
I had done a temporary install of the 1989 dash to work on the wiring and test various components (lights, power locks, power windows, wiper, etc.) and had a nice pair of the 2 button Travelers and a simple system monitor (door ajar, trunk ajar, low fuel, low washer fluid) and the car had the warning chime module for seat belt, key in ignition, lights on along with the illuminated entry parts from the 1985 car. I had partially built a front harness from parts from the 85 and the rodent chewed 86 harness.

You can see why I decided to use the 1989 harness instead!

85lebaront2
12-07-2018, 08:21 PM
As I progressed changing the front harness from SMEC to SBEC, I discovered that (A) I had a bad SBEC and (B) the early Traveler will not work with an SBEC. The older Traveler uses a speed input from the speed sensor (white with orange wire) and a fuel flow signal from either the logic module or SMEC (light blue with black) and a fuel level signal (dark blue). The speed and fuel level are there, but the SBEC does not use the fuel flow, it communicates via the twisted pair data bus. Great, the twisted pair needs a 5 volt signal to carry it's data. Off to Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach Memorial Day weekend when everything is 1/2 off. Got extremely lucky, only K derived car in the place was a 1995 LeBaron convertible, from the look of it there because of a blown 3.0L V6 (oil all over underneath). After having already found that neither of my rear axles had good sway bars, this was great! Got the rear axle, less the drum brakes (we left them in the floor), a Traveler and the BCM to do the communication.

Then back to the axles, found that Chrysler had used a number of different bushings on the pivot arms (non available any more) so I called Johnny Spiva at Poly Bushings. He confirmed that the diameter was the same, just different lengths, so I ordered a set of the correct bushings for the 86-89 suspension. I found that the bolt diameter changed between 86 and 89, so I had to use the 1989 pivots. I later found I needed to use the 1986 pivots due to the parking brake cable orientation, so I drilled them for the larger bolts.

85lebaront2
12-07-2018, 08:30 PM
I had the dash in and out several times to work on the dash harness. The last time was to add all the needed circuits for the BCM features. Two of the interesting ones were wipers and lights. The older cars have the wiper switch as part of the column, actually mounted as part of the pivot for the turn signal switch. They use a small box for the delay feature. After a comparison of the functions I was able to determine that the inner circuitry of the switches were pretty similar. I had an old L-body switch to experiment with and got most of the functions to work except either it wouldn't park, or wouldn't do a complete sweep in the delay mode. I found that (A) the switch ground on the older switch needed to be changed to tie to the low speed wire and (B) both the green wires from the switch needed to go to the DG/WT wire on the BCM pin # 12 and the green wire from the motor park switch to the DG wire on the BCM pin # 10.

The headlight system on the later cars (starting in 1990 on G and J bodies) uses relays and grounds to turn things on. After a couple of tries, I got them working with no false "you left your lights on" warning. The dash light dimming works, but is not really correct as it is apparently a fair sized resistance to ground, and the older pull knob switch works opposite from the later ones. Since I am using the 89 dash, and the 86 body does not have hidden headlights, I mounted a relay module for 5 Bosch type relays in that area. I have park lights, head lights, name brand speaker, and door lock/unlock in it.

Door locks were another issue, the older system is a direct operated system, where the door switches do everything, left door has 5 active terminals. power, two grounds and lock and unlock, right door, the left door lock/unlock go where the left side grounds are and the lock and unlock go to the lock motors on both doors. The 1995 system uses only power and lock/unlock at each door and the lock motors are controlled through relays. This allows a remote keyless entry and anti-theft alarm to be used as options. It also allows an automatic lock feature at a certain speed.

I had the 1989 message center for various warnings, door ajar, low fuel, low washer fluid, trunk ajar. I found I had a crossfeed issue on the door ajar circuits even though the 89 message center uses individual door icons. I added two diodes, one in each wire to the message center, solved! I then addressed the low fuel, older cars use a switch in the sender to activate a delay circuit so you don't get a flashing warning light, and it powers the light when activated. The BCM grounds the light. I had to modify the message center by removing the ground trace and jumping the 12V supply to the opposite side of the light. All of those now work correctly.

85lebaront2
12-07-2018, 08:37 PM
Haven't done a lot for a bit, made a run to Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach Sunday (half price weekend) and scored a few things, some Ford stuff for my truck and a number of pieces for the konvertible. A transmission cooler from a Durango with the 4.7L Mercedes design V8, it was a stand alone unit, no connections to anything except the transmission, it is about the same size as the one the 2.6L in the 85 had that I used after installing the T2 setup in it. The other was a PDC from a 1996 Stratus 2.4L which is longer and narrower than the one a friend in Richmond VA found me. His worked, but was giving me a nightmare figuring out locations for Battery, SBEC and PDC in front of the shock tower on a K-car. This one, of course had the battery location in the left front fender and the cables came up to a red + and black - on the inner fender.

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Got most of the "new" PDC sorted, got it mounted and put the SBEC where it should be. Started connecting the "new" PDC in place of the other one. Interesting item, on the Stratus, it was mounted longitudinally on the brackets the TCM and PCM mount to. There was one harness vertically underneath that went down into the front part of the engine harness. The back of it had a larger harness that branched with the front leg of it going to the front of the two PCM plugs. Inside it there are a number of wires that simply pass through from one end to the other.

If I can do it, I may retain that feature as it is right where the front harness sits.

85lebaront2
12-07-2018, 08:42 PM
Did some more on setting up the Stratus PDC in the konvertible, one of the reasons I like it better than the Dynasty one, all the relays are standard Bosch or Omron, no special 4 terminal with alignment pin Chrysler probably NLA relays. The SBEC fits nicely and the battery also.

Now, I have to drop the column and disconnect the harness inside so I can push it back through and re tape and sleeve everything.

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Finally got a chance after 3 busy days to get back to my wiring work. Got everything checked to make sure it worked then pulled the column out for disassembly and color change. Got the front harness sections to the PDC and SBEC taped up and fitted. I ran the power wires for my pusher fans I am going to use, blue is low speed to be controlled by the SBEC, green is high speed to be controlled by the A/C high pressure switch I am installing.

85lebaront2
12-07-2018, 08:54 PM
Continued on with some of the wiring, then went up to Eastern Speed Shop and picked up a can of 15063 Burgundy SEM paint so I could redo the steering column to match the existing interior color.

Rebuilt the column using the turn signal switch from the 86 column since it has the cornering light contacts and wires. I did not attempt to do the cruise control switch to burgundy as I would have to disassemble it to do that. After everything was back together, I put the 86 steering wheel on it in place of the Laser Eurosport one. Under the wheel on the 86 was a large triangular weight on a rubber support, I guess to dampen the 4 cyl. automatic idle vibration.

After reinstalling the column, I started making the mounts for the dual pusher fans (modified 1999 Ford Contour unit).

After that I put a lug on the alternator feed wire with the green fusible link so it will attach to the new PDC.

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Got most of the front harness around the PDC finished up and mounted a terminal strip for the fan set power and ground. Ford shows a 60 amp fuse for these fans on high, I'm hoping they won't draw quite that much, particularly since they will already be running on low when the A/C pressure switch closes for high speed. I used a terminal strip with screws due to the potential current draw and used 10-12 ga ring terminals. I still have to add the ground wire which will go from the terminal strip to the battery ground point on the inner fender.

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Minor update, first, I have apparently managed to blow two SBECs (maybe 3) with a mistake in my rewiring. The reason I say maybe 3, I have a couple of TBI SBECs I was using to confirm if I had a bad Turbo SBEC and the last time I tried it I got the same reaction as the turbo ones. If anyone has a way to bench test and maybe repair these it would be great.

I did try my high speed on the modified Contour fans, it ran fine on the Stratus PDC's 40 amp fan fuse, so maybe Ford was overly conservative on fusing them (60 amp fuse). They definitely shove some air through the condensor, but I will need to seal the edges to make sure all the air passes through the condensor and radiator/intercooler rather than around the edges. They definitely push some air! Low won't work until I (a) have a good SBEC and (b) the engine in and running, high will be controlled by a fan switch from a 1993 Grand Caravan with a factory R134a system.

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Did some more fitting of things, I figured I better check on the air filter fit to the SBEC end. I was hoping to use the 1989 outer half as it is (a) in better shape than the other one and (b) has the nice large oval inlet. Oval inlet lines up nicely with the inner part of the Stratus PDC, round inlet does clear though, so that is the one I will be using. I will have to be sure the hose is flexible as it sits lower than the SBEC outlet.

85lebaront2
12-07-2018, 08:58 PM
Been prepping the car to go and have the floor replaced, basically stripping everything that might be in the way off it. Found a very rusty 10 mm socket in the bottom of the left front fender. I had found that the 1989 rear axle mounts had the parking brake rear cables rubbing the end of the housings due to the different angle of the cable routing between the K and J bodies. I drilled out the holes in the 1986 mounts and changed them, at the same time, since I had a questionable hole in the rear of the right mount I Helicoiled all 3 on that side.

bigbarneycars
12-08-2018, 02:24 PM
Interesting read. What fitment problems did you run into fitting the '89 LeBaron dash in the K-Body? I only ask because I know what I ran into when I swapped an'88 LeBaron digital dash in My '83 L-Body GT Scamp. The 4 wheel disc swap from an '89 LeBaron was almost a drop in too except for using two more front '89 rubber lines and reversing them right front to left rear and left front to right rear and used my cut off wheel to genially remove the strut hangers around the rubber lines when I shortened the hard lines. Laid the rubber lines over the springs and used the existing clamps on the rear axle to hold 'um in place. Keep on typing, Jer

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 03:04 PM
Car is currently in Newport News VA for the floor replacement. In the mean time I have been doing some other things. First was to have signsoflife22 socket a 1991 2.5L T1 SBEC for me in return for a 1989 2.2L T2 SMEC I had acquired in the past before I settled on using an SBEC.

The second item has been working on a solution to the lack of adequate airflow through the A/C condensor with the T2 radiator/intercooler system. The factory fan, even the later 5 blade plastic unit does not pull enough air over the condensor while the car is not moving or moving slowly. Since the 1996 Stratus PDC contains both a low and high fan relay and I have already pretty well adapted a dual speed, dual fan assembly, it was onto the electrical portion.

The nice new LKQ sourced hose assembly has a fuse plug as a blow out to handle excessive pressure, EPA regulations say this is now illegal so I was looking for a way to use a set of switches from a 1993 Caravan system which is one I am familiar with. Only problem, where to connect the switches into the refrigerant system. I found a nice 3/8-24 to M10X1.25 Schrader fitting at AutoZone, and ordered 2 of them. The 3/8-24 end is the thread for the fuse plug, so one will go there perfectly. The condensor flange on the compressor discharge is not thick enough to drill and tap for the other as my original plan was: high pressure fan on the compressor and high pressure containment on the condensor end of the discharge. This would require only one lead added to the engine harness and extend the compressor enable circuits from the low pressure switch at the expansion valve to the right end of the radiator/condensor area. No go without a second adapter fitting.

Step back and rethink the plan, in the mean time I had to replace a compressor clutch bearing on my 1994 Taurus, while I was doing that, I looked at my manuals, including the EVTM (Ford's equivalent of the wiring diagram book on the 1986 FWD FSM set) there was the answer, Ford used a binary switch on these, one side NO the other NC to (a) turn on the high speed fan and (b) kill the compressor if the pressure still went up. At the same time I had gotten the two switches off the Caravan at the Virginia Beach Pick-n-Pull, I had removed the expansion valve with it's low pressure cut off and anti-icing switch so I will order a new 1993 Caravan front expansion valve for R134a and have the correct type. The Ford binary switch ended up being replaced by the high pressure cutout switch on a 1994 compressor and a high pressure fan switch mounted to the inlet off the condensor.

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My friend who owns the towing company and junkyard sent me a text today "Elvis is in the building." I asked if that meant the convertible was in the shop, "yep". Someone had relocated the Reliant he had actually bought for parts for mine and given it to the fire department to practice extrication on. It now has no roof, but that's minor and the rear bumper is still perfect. It is currently planted atop a dead school bus as of Sunday so no one will mess with it again.

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 03:12 PM
Went over to the shop and adjoining junkyard yesterday to pick up some of the parts form the Reliant parts car. Unfortunately the NN fire department had destroyed the front doors and hinges and in the process mangled one of the door checks completely and bent the flanges on the outer shell on one other, the remaining two were in perfect condition. Front fenders were also destroyed. The car's main purpose was fortunately still possible, and is now ongoing. We looked at the Reliant trunk lid, physically it is the same size, just lacks the 3rd brake light and the attachment points are different. They are going to put it on as it is pristine.

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 03:17 PM
Just got a post on FB from the owner of the shop working on my car. He said he was going to try to borrow or build a rotisserie. Here's what he sent. Some more pictures and some text messages back and forth and this is where it stands right now:

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 03:28 PM
While the body is being repaired, I have been doing some things on the engine including rebuilding the 1989 Garret T2 turbo as it had some play and when opened up had a lot of baked on oil residue in behind the heat shield. I had found a nice Shadow 2.5L T1 convertible with an obviously DOA engine and salvaged the engine harness, air filter, hoses and vacuum harness with all the fittings and valves.

I repaired two cracked lines by using heat shrink over the breaks and set about making it fit my 2 piece intake. Everything pretty well fit except for the manifold source, the two piece originally used a rear fitting with a plastic tee for the system other than the brake booster. When I laid the harness against the intake plenum, the source was roughly in front of the original hole, but needed to be as high as I could go to allow for the curved hose from manifold to harness. FPR hose had to be shortened as it originally went a lot higher up. Here is the test fit using my 1989 2.5L Mitsubishi turbo.

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Went over to Pete's Custom Auto/Towing/Used parts yesterday and had a pretty good haul. Got a few more pieces off the 1991 Shadow ES convertible with the 2.5L turbo, told Donnie when he gets ready to scrap it I would like to get the transaxle, it is a lockup converter A413 for a turbo. Then I went to the 1992 Sundance 4dr next to it and got the entire HVAC system. A real PITA as the right front door would not open, something in the latch was jammed tight, even with the door panel off and moving the release as far as it would go, it wouldn't open.

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No new pictures at the moment, my nice Intel quad core motherboard apparently ate itself and my Adobe CS6 is on the primary hard drive (which was not hurt). I did some cleaning and inspection on the HVAC stuff from the 1992 Sundance, evaporator and heater cores are both in excellent condition and the compressor already has the high pressure cutout switch built in so all the previous work on the binary switch isn't needed. I found that if I installed one of the adapters and a 1993 Caravan high pressure fan switch, it (a) hit the compressor mount and (b) was long enough that the plug for the wires hit the valve cover. I went ahead and notched the compressor bracket for a trial fit and using washers tried to see how far I would need to move the compressor forward to provide the needed clearance.

The result, looks like it would need about 1 inch forward, this would allow room for the switch and plug and move the drive belt return side (upper) away from the motor mount which was a problem before, at a certain rpm the harmonic of the compressor/engine pulses would have that side of the belt, even with it as tight as it would go, flutter enough to rub the mount. The bad might be getting the belt tension adjusted since it would lower the drive side (bottom) and that is the adjustment point. I stopped on this one as I was running out of thread on the bolts and the longest ones I could find were 90mm same as the originals.

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After doing some experimenting with the Denso compressor manifold block, figured out if I could find a way to rotate the fitting for the high pressure fan switch 90° to where it would run parallel to the compressor it would clear. The issue then becomes two fold, first it blocks access to the front inboard manifold bolt and second, finding a good set of fittings that will not leak refrigerant at the operating pressure of the R134a system. I ended up putting a fitting on the condensor inlet. It just means a bit more wiring, but it is a good location.

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Went to the Virginia Beach Pick and Pull Saturday and got a 41TE transaxle from a 2005 Stratus 2.4L DOHC to adapt to the 2.2/2.5L block. I found which of the 4 bolts doesn't match, the lower front hole. Interestingly enough, there is a dummy hole in the correct location, just a recess for the hollow dowel and a pilot spot for the bolt location. Where it gets interesting, the lower starter bolt is very close to the same spot so there will obviously be some grinding/cutting etc to get everything to fit. I really hope I can use the front side starter location to get it away from the exhaust heat (manifold and turbo). I got an EATX controller and the wiring from a 1997 which was the first one I went for, but that engine was locked up so I couldn't get the converter bolts out. As far as I can tell, the two large lower bolts also match the A413 locations.

A couple of other items, the right side axle lacks the long extension housing of the older transaxles, but the bolt pattern on the case is the same. Torque converter is the same 10 1/4" OD, same one offset pattern, but, no timing slot on the converter and no window in the case so I have to come up with a good timing solution. Two options I see, move to using the crank pulley like most engines do or cut a window in the transaxle case, put a scale and a mark or notch either on the converter or drive plate. I am leaning toward the pulley end as it will involve less cutting, just a good measurement for circumference and a scale on pulley or a tab.

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Update on 41TE fit up, the 2.4L uses a smaller (quite a bit) diameter flywheel than the 2.2/2.5L engines, bolt pattern on the crank appears the same. The flywheel and front side starter become a "must use" due to the inside dimensions of the 41TE converter housing are much smaller on the rear side, so other than cutting and welding on a starter mount and possible still needing some further cutting that might cause some other problems, I am at the point where the front mount starter becomes the only workable option.

Now I just need a junk block to play with.

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 03:42 PM
Back to the more mundane items on the car, I did add the needed circuits for the 41TE controls so they are there if I can adapt it. I used the extra set of male connectors from the 41TE harnesses I had gotten at Pick and Pull, I will still need the mating female sides in order to connect it. I made the wiring long enough so (hopefully) I can put the EATX computer on the outside of the left frame rail, essentially where the PT cruiser and some of the vans have it. That way the harness from the transaxle to the computer should be long enough to go through the left splash shield and the vehicle harness plugs will either be above there or under the hood.

Next item was the bumper mounts for the front bumper, the car has the 5 mph bumpers so has the shocks. The front has small rubber isolators in the shocks where they attach to the front of the frame rails. For some reason after 32 years, the rubber had disintegrated. Chrysler serviced these only as part of the shock assembly and they are long since discontinued. I took lots of measurements and pictures and sent them to Pollybushings.com, Johnny was able to come close, but the center hole was too big and the overall length wrong, so first was take the 3/4" hole down to fit the knurled M8 bolt, after a trial mockup, the length will have to be cut down as they crush more on the front than the back and I am pretty sure the shock bottoms in the frame socket.

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Went back to Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach and got an Infinity head unit, CD changer (no good) and the amplifier and as much of the harness as I could reach from a 2001 Sebring convertible. This amp has a top down equalizer mode, I just need to find out what activates it as it connects to the BCM on the Sebring. Don't know if it is a positive signal or ground and if positive whether 5V or 12V.

Went a couple of cars further and found a 1994 Shadow or Sundance convertible and got the actual R134a compressor and unique to 1994 hose set. This now gives me a complete R134a system. I drilled and tapped the condensor flange for a switch port so I can use a high pressure fan switch from a 1993 Grand Caravan (R134a system), the 1994 compressor has the R134a high pressure shutdown switch in it.

Wednesday 10/17/2018 I am going over to the body shop and pick up the car so I can start the fun of reassembly.

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Picked the car up Wednesday along with my tow dolly and brought it home. Currently it is sitting on jackstands so I can start the underside reassembly. Did find that when they removed the parking brake hardware the small equalizer on the end of the primary cable vanished. Found a replacement for roughly $11 including shipping. I spent one day getting the gas tank ready, new sender gasket, new Carter fuel pump, new filler neck grommet and new internal return hose.

I have to drill the holes in the firewall for the heat shield and reinstall all the undercar shields. Fuel lines will get all the rusted clips replaced and a nice new filter installed along with new high pressure hose and the proper clamps. I have the four new hoses for the rear disc brakes even though the ones at the front of the suspension look fine, I still want to replace them. The ones at the calipers have cracks in the outer layer so they should be replaced anyway.

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Did some trial fit up of the front end, the pusher fan and the front bumper bar with the Poly Bushings T-bushings replacing the defunct rubber pieces. Any one with a 5 mph bumper this is a solution to the DOA rubber pieces that were only service as part of the shock assembly.

Now I am fighting with 33 year old brake lines, fittings are frozen (go figure) did get the left rear apart so it now has new hoses, right tomorrow.

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Did some more underneath, got the long brake lines replaced and the hoses on the rear suspension done, Found that in doing the floors the bulk of the retaining clips for the brake lines vanished. Of the 6 I am supposed to have, there are 2, one of which is questionable. Next was the heat shields, I thought when I was cleaning them that I had all I needed for the turbo engine, not quite, I have back to the tank area for the 86 K body, and a center shield, brake hose shield and front of gas tank, but they are for the late 1989 J body and will take some work to get everything fitted correctly. Pictures are firewall heat shield and looking down the "tunnel".

For some reason, even though I am putting these in as separate posts with the matching pictures, several have shown up all run together as "Updated" and the pictures all come up not in sequence as I entered them. Sorry about the problem, but I have no idea how to prevent it from happening. Some posts go in exactly as I enter them individually and others merge.

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 03:48 PM
Some more progress on the reassembly, got the fuel lines and tank in and at least found a fit for the heat shield around the left end of the fuel tank.

I had also cleaned the front fascia with Greased Lightning and hadn't posted it.

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 03:52 PM
I finally got the brake lines secured, last parts of the heat shields installed and the fuel return hose to the tank installed. I started working on the fan and 1992 Shadow condensor installation.

The modified 1999 Ford Contour fan pair does not completely cover the opening in the radiator support and due to the off center to the left position of the opening could not be mounted to fit that portion. I took some sheet metal and made a panel to cover approximately 2" on that end. I found that lining the Shadow condensor centered on the resulting opening placed it perfectly where the condensor seals should work once it is mounted. Top and bottom ended up the same as the old heavy serpentine one. I will post the final mounting later, but the lower brackets needed to be moved down on the condensor so the rubber mounts would sit in a pair of new holes in the lower radiator support.

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 03:59 PM
As promised, the modifications to allow the later (1992 Sundance) condensor to mount to the K-car radiator support. First was to move both the lower supports down as the 1992 P body condensor sits on a pair on small pedestals with the core hanging slightly lower across the opening. The ends have some extra screw holes where the brackets mount, and the lowest one on each end positioned the core at the correct height. Upper holes had to be carefully drilled, they do line up between tubes so it is possible.

Upper mounts, the P body used a large bracket on the right end that attached to the core support and also the cooling fan it is actually on the connection block for the hose set. I turned it around so the single tab with the nut plate was to the front and in and cut the old mount tab off. This positioned the right end at just the correct depth. Left side has a single tab that was attached to the core support only. Due to it's location it wouldn't directly line up anywhere. I ended up using an extra solenoid mount stud which is just long enough for a spacer and nut.

After that, I used a 1 1/4" hole saw to make a clearance hole for the high pressure fan switch from a 1993 Grand Caravan which I had previously mounted on the connection block on the inlet side. The rectangular hole above that area is a vestige left over from the Mitsubishi 2.6L engines, a cooling duct for the carburetor. It is now closed off.

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Major milestone today, put the engine in. Did it by lifting it up from the bottom the way it is supposed to be done. I will be glad when I can afford the lift I want!

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Got my front calipers in yesterday and since I was going to install the drive axles anyway, it was perfect timing. I also got the correct fuel filter in and talk about a real PITA, between the 30R9 hose and the cramped location it took about 30 mins to get everything connected. Now it just needs the bolt to keep it in place.

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 04:03 PM
Once I can catch the gremlin that keeps hiding things from me I will be better off. I had to make a new J bolt for the ZF power steering pump tensioner as the original one seems to have grown legs. I got the rest of the fuel system plumbed including the protective sleeve on the underhood supply hose and the original bolt for the fuel filter.

I went to trial fit the radiator to make sure the condensor would be in the correct location with regards to it and found the gremlin hid the radiator rubber pads and upper mounts.

Here is a picture from underneath looking over the K member at the Garrett turbo's 2 1/2" exhaust flange.

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 04:19 PM
I did some more work on the front area as far as finishing up the pusher fan mounts and making some brackets to replace the original header panel bracing that attached to the center of the radiator support. This ties the inner portion of the headlight pockets to the radiator support so they won't shake going down the road.

After getting these done, for one thing, the header panel will now sit in place for assembly without being held, it was transaxle cooler time. The turbo II radiator/intercooler has no provision for a transmission fluid (http://i.viglink.com/?key=13bb4cd9ff90a7a4b9dc2cefc076f104&insertId=6091304c6bb878f7&type=L&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A14&libId=jpfw05iz010005cw000DLkoko2jwl&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.turbododge.com%2Fforums%2Ff4 %2Ff279%2F1201666-rebirth-t2k-car-4.html&v=1&iid=6091304c6bb878f7&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_nk w%3Dtransmission%2Bfluid&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.turbododge.com%2Fforums%2Ff4 %2Ff279%2F1201666-rebirth-t2k-car-3.html&title=Rebirth%20of%20T2K-CAR%20-%20Page%204%20-%20Turbo%20Dodge%20Forums%20%3A%20Turbo%20Dodge%20 Forum%20for%20Turbo%20Mopars%2C%20Shelbys%2C%20Dod ge%20Daytona%2C%20Dodge%20SRT-4%2C%20Chrysler%20PT%20Cruiser%2C%20Omni%20and%20m ore!&txt=%3Cspan%3Etransmission%20%3C%2Fspan%3E%3Cspan% 3Efluid%3C%2Fspan%3E) cooler. I had picked up one from a Durango with the 4.7L Powertech V8. This was the only cooler, not an auxiliary one. I was able to fit it horizontally in front of the fan motors, and roughly behind the bumper area where there are two good sized air slots.

The left end bracket on the cooler will either be welded or brazed. The nipples have a pair of quick connect fittings that go with them.

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 04:31 PM
Still working out the wiring rearrangement issues on the left side, some of which will wait until I start replacing the jute pad on the upper inside of the firewall. To do it right I will remove all the inside brackets (steering column (http://i.viglink.com/?key=13bb4cd9ff90a7a4b9dc2cefc076f104&insertId=84de0b793a036bdb&type=M&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A14&libId=jpfw05iz010005cw000DLkoko2jwl&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.turbododge.com%2Fforums%2Ff4 %2Ff279%2F1201666-rebirth-t2k-car-4.html&v=1&iid=84de0b793a036bdb&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-ng.do%3Fsearch_query%3Dsteering%2Bcolumn%26ic%3D16 _0%26Find%3DFind%26search_constraint%3D0&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.turbododge.com%2Fforums%2Ff4 %2Ff279%2F1201666-rebirth-t2k-car-3.html&title=Rebirth%20of%20T2K-CAR%20-%20Page%204%20-%20Turbo%20Dodge%20Forums%20%3A%20Turbo%20Dodge%20 Forum%20for%20Turbo%20Mopars%2C%20Shelbys%2C%20Dod ge%20Daytona%2C%20Dodge%20SRT-4%2C%20Chrysler%20PT%20Cruiser%2C%20Omni%20and%20m ore!&txt=%3Cspan%3Esteering%20%3C%2Fspan%3E%3Cspan%3Eco lumn%3C%2Fspan%3E) and brake pedal along with braces) with those out of the way I can separate the booster and master cylinder for better access to the wiring harness.

In the mean time, I had ordered and received replacement window weatherstrips to replace the disintegrated ones on the doors. The weatherstrips are a combination fuzz strip, thrust blocks and rubber wiper type seal and are convertible specific. I installed the left side outer, inner is stapled and I will let my upholstery shop do that when he does the door panels.

I needed to get the horns mounted and connected, I found a nice pair that will fit under the right headlight area behind the bumper where the original outer horn mounted on a PT Cruiser at Pick-n-Pull, the inner attachment location is now where the transaxle cooler brace goes. I also ran the ground and control wires for the high speed fan pressure switch. I still need to mount and connect the low temperature compressor lockout switch on the left side and then install the front header panel with headlights. Did get the front bumper cover (http://i.viglink.com/?key=13bb4cd9ff90a7a4b9dc2cefc076f104&insertId=5f8e0806904c5624&type=L&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A14&libId=jpfw05iz010005cw000DLkoko2jwl&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.turbododge.com%2Fforums%2Ff4 %2Ff279%2F1201666-rebirth-t2k-car-4.html&v=1&iid=5f8e0806904c5624&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_nk w%3Dfront%2Bbumper%2Bcover&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.turbododge.com%2Fforums%2Ff4 %2Ff279%2F1201666-rebirth-t2k-car-3.html&title=Rebirth%20of%20T2K-CAR%20-%20Page%204%20-%20Turbo%20Dodge%20Forums%20%3A%20Turbo%20Dodge%20 Forum%20for%20Turbo%20Mopars%2C%20Shelbys%2C%20Dod ge%20Daytona%2C%20Dodge%20SRT-4%2C%20Chrysler%20PT%20Cruiser%2C%20Omni%20and%20m ore!&txt=%3Cspan%3Efront%20%3C%2Fspan%3E%3Cspan%3Ebumpe r%20%3C%2Fspan%3E%3Cspan%3Ecover%3C%2Fspan%3E) on though.

85lebaront2
12-08-2018, 04:36 PM
Got the front wiring pretty much finished and the header panel installed. Set the radiator/intercooler in place to make sure my transaxle lines clear.

I removed the upper plenum in order to get the brake booster (http://i.viglink.com/?key=13bb4cd9ff90a7a4b9dc2cefc076f104&insertId=7895195baa7baf6f&type=L&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A14&libId=jpfw05iz010005cw000DLkoko2jwl&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.turbododge.com%2Fforums%2Ff4 %2Ff279%2F1201666-rebirth-t2k-car-4.html&v=1&iid=7895195baa7baf6f&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_nk w%3Dbrake%2Bbooster&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.turbododge.com%2Fforums%2Ff4 %2Ff279%2F1201666-rebirth-t2k-car-3.html&title=Rebirth%20of%20T2K-CAR%20-%20Page%204%20-%20Turbo%20Dodge%20Forums%20%3A%20Turbo%20Dodge%20 Forum%20for%20Turbo%20Mopars%2C%20Shelbys%2C%20Dod ge%20Daytona%2C%20Dodge%20SRT-4%2C%20Chrysler%20PT%20Cruiser%2C%20Omni%20and%20m ore!&txt=%3Cspan%3Ebrake%20%3C%2Fspan%3E%3Cspan%3Eboost er%3C%2Fspan%3E) out so I am going to leave it off for now so I can test the injectors using a spare turbo distributor.

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Been a little cold here for a bit, since I had the brake booster off, I removed the inner parts too, the pedal and column support bracket so I could replace the jute insulation on the inside of the cowl. A local upholstery shop gave me the end of a roll to use. It reached almost all the way across and the width top to firewall is only about 15" so there is still plenty left. I covered the blower resistor area as the 1992 Imperial ATC system uses a solid state control.

85lebaront2
12-17-2018, 08:18 PM
I never could find the support strap for the HVAC assembly, so I picked up some 3/4 X 1/8 strap at ACE hardware and made a new one. Got the expansion valve and the suction and liquid hose set connected to the evaporator. Finally got one of my two bumper extensions installed, the right side. I still need to get my power antenna sorted and installed, then I can put the right inner fender in with new push-in retainers.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63534&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63535&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63536&stc=1

85lebaront2
03-13-2019, 08:49 PM
Despite the shop scabbing the front crossmember, when I went to attach the front mount it was pulling way forward. I took a straightedge long enough to span rail to rail and found it was still forward 1/2" at the mount, so I cut some spacers from some left over 1/4" thick angle flanges. Then it was on to the transaxle cooler lines. I had originally planned on just using some good hose and just running them to the cooler. When I laid them out I discovered that they were going to rub on the intercooler inlet hose and clamp. I took the original ones from the car, cut them where they turned upward to the end tank on a regular radiator and turned the top portion around, perfect match with the transaxle outlet going to the lower cooler fitting and the upper cooler fitting going to the return port. I took a short length of 5/16" steel tubing and did a partial bubble flare on each end, pushed the cut hoses over and clamped them. Then is was on to the power antenna and the interesting little bumper extensions on the bottoms of the front fenders. These are a 1986 update on the K-cars to make the bumper a little lower so they don't look as nose high.

Once the power antenna was in, I put the inner fenders in with new push-in retainers. Now the fun started, first I was having a problem getting a socketed SBEC working, so I finally purchased a used one to see if I could get things working that way. Found that out of two sets of injectors, I had one that worked and didn't leak, so a new set of GP Sorenson ones from AutoZone and I had good fuel spray patterns. While this was being resolved my nice powder coated valve cover came back from Oklahoma (friend did it) so I installed it, then started on the worm's nest (too small for snakes) of vacuum/pressure plumbing behind the valve cover. I also finally had all the A/C pieces for underhood, so they went on. After getting a good SBEC, I was able to fire it up, first time that engine had been started in 10 years.

I had to find some nice molded heater hoses to clear the 1991 Air filter, got all that and the wiring routed so everything fits. Filled the cooling system, warmed it up and checked the timing. Unplug the CTS, fans on low, timing reasonably stable, set at 12° BTDC. I kept smelling gas, and finally saw it was coming from the fuel line near the filter, couldn't be the short piece, had to be the main piece, tiny rust hole, boy that 55 psi can spray a lot out! Cut it where I could double flare and use an inverted flare coupling so it would fit without a problem. It was time to go get a good battery, group 34 (thanks for using and oddball size Chrysler). After topping off the transaxle and power steering. I found the good news, it moves under it's own power, and stops, bad news, no power steering. I had used the ZF pump and mounts from the 1989 parts car, Chrysler says pump is not repairable. I figured I couldn't make it any worse, so I took it apart. Both end plates were chewed up, rotor ring was gouged and vanes were stuck in the rotor. Back to one of my two Saginaws, I had hoped to use the ZF due to the smaller size and reservoir being further from the exhaust heat.

Now it is finish repairing the cracks in the ABS matrix of the 1989 dash and get it reassembled and dyed maroon or burgundy to match the rest of the interior then put it in so I can be able to run the A/C and charge it.http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63822&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63833&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63832&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63831&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63830&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63829&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63828&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63827&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63826&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63825&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63824&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63823&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63834&stc=1

karlak
03-14-2019, 10:40 AM
Lordy I need some of your motivation.

85lebaront2
03-15-2019, 09:30 AM
I have to do something in retirement, keeps me going (I'll be 73 in May).

85lebaront2
10-19-2019, 09:37 AM
I guess I really do need to keep up with this. First item, there was a spot on the driver's side floor where the Reliant floor pan that had been severely beaten up by the Newport News fire department during an extrication class had a nice bulge almost under the steering column. I didn't want to try working on it with the dash installed and definitely not with the windshield installed. I pulled the dash back out and took a good size sledge hammer to the bulge.

After that I reinstalled the dash and steering column. Found a windshield and had a local shop install it, technician was very happy that it was stripped down and I was doing the reassembly. Got out my NOS window guides (MOPAR 04136914) and replaced the destroyed set on the driver's door, passenger side just needed adjustment. With the windshield in and the side trim and weatherstrip installed, both windows come solidly against the weatherstrip.

Fortunately, both rear quarter window drive tapes decided to give up before I installed the glass there. I now have both left side windows in.

I had been trying to get my nice 1989 analog cluster to work, but the tachometer is very erratic, even tried a different tach module with no luck. I finally gave up and stuck one of the good digital ones I got from Arizona parts. I had run the wiring for the 2001 Sebring convertible rear view mirror so stuck it on the new windshield.