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thedon809
10-28-2009, 05:33 PM
It's a 1986 dodge daytona turbo z c/s with leather enthusiast seats, t-tops, power everything, auto. Here it is when I bought it.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/004.jpg
It was in pretty rough shape. That's to be expected for having 180k miles of being beaten on.
Snowflakes weren't working for me so I picked these pt cruiser rims up for cheap.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/dfasfdasfd.jpg
First I pulled the transmission to be beefed up. The front band was welded and re lined. Upgraded front clutches. Blocked accumulator with every valve body mod you can think of. It shifted so hard and fast it almost knocked the transmission dyno over.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/adsfd.jpg
Now I am rebuilding the motor. My plans are a fairly stock rebuild but converted to t2. Shitty picture, I know.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image0017.jpg
After Fighting with the exhaust manifold and breaking 2 bolts I brought out the good ole torches. I got the turbo off then the manifolds. I pulled the head and found some bad stuff. Cylinder #2 has 2 gouges in it .
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image0018.jpg
Hopefully getting it bored .020 over will fix it. Car still ran decent but consumed some oil. I then pulled the rods and crank out and found more bad stuff. Basically every bearing is beat to hell and so is the crank.
This is where the center main bearing rides.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image0019.jpg
I got the head all pulled apart and measured .016" warpage :yuck:. Somehow, the fel pro HG that was on it wasn't blown.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image00115.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image00114.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image00113.jpg
I bored the block .015" over and when I get pistons hone the rest. Did it all myself.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image00116.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image00117.jpg
Got rid of all of the gouges in the walls :thumb:.

raccoon
10-28-2009, 06:24 PM
very nice car, I like.

props too for pulling the auto apart. :)

thedon809
10-28-2009, 06:32 PM
very nice car, I like.

props too for pulling the auto apart. :)I loves my auto :D. Should be a lot faster now that it will have a turbo converter in it instead of the N/A converter that used to be in it. Also put in neon 1.04 transfer gears so I think it's 2.97 FD ratio now.

thedon809
10-28-2009, 08:33 PM
Just bought these wiseco .020" over pistons with t2 rods:nod:.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu62/moparman76_69/100_2156.jpg

thedon809
10-29-2009, 06:14 PM
Instead of buying a used t2 radiator to go with my intercooler, I bought a civic aluminum radiator with fan for 80 shipped.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image00118.jpg
It looks to be pretty decent quality.

Vigo
10-30-2009, 12:12 PM
This is gonna be a fun one! Good job having access and ability to do all that work yourself! I can rebuild motors and 413s but i sure dont have the ability to bore my engines and dyno my transmissions myself!

thedon809
10-30-2009, 05:07 PM
This is gonna be a fun one! Good job having access and ability to do all that work yourself! I can rebuild motors and 413s but i sure dont have the ability to bore my engines and dyno my transmissions myself!I figured I might as well rebuild my engine while I'm in school and have access to all this stuff.

Vigo
11-02-2009, 01:26 PM
^ good plan. I know a lot of guys did the same thing while i was in school, but we never even touched the transmission dyno. Im not sure why it was there, really. :p

turbokid
11-03-2009, 11:34 PM
Yes that will be HELLA cheaper compared to having it done later.
Nice work so far!
Good to see you are making progress!

thedon809
11-04-2009, 05:29 PM
I got my pistons. I measured them and added the .0035 of piston to wall clearance and honed the block. I also picked up a new head at a JY. It's a mexican 782 head. Is there anything special about the mexican heads? I found that only 2 of the cylinders had a crack in between the valves and this one measured with no warpage :). The junkyard said it was a turbo head but I'm not 100% sure on that, so i'm using my old exhaust valves.

thedon809
11-05-2009, 04:50 PM
Here it is getting honed.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image001-1.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image001.jpg
And the result.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image001-2.jpg
Now I'm just waiting for the machinist to come get my crank so I can figure out what size bearings I need.

blk86trbo
11-05-2009, 10:46 PM
Excellent pictures, it's gonna look nice!

thedon809
11-06-2009, 04:37 PM
Just refaced my valves and back cut them today.

thedon809
11-10-2009, 05:02 PM
Here is my turbo all torn apart. It had a little up and down, side to side shaft play. It also had a tiny amount of in and out shaft play. Non of the blades touched the housing or anything though. I think it's good to go for a rebuild but I'm not 100% positive.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image001-3.jpg

Vigo
11-10-2009, 08:42 PM
If the shaft isnt scored and the wheels didnt touch anything there's no reason you couldn't rebuild it. Great work!

turbokid
11-11-2009, 01:23 AM
Wow taking that on by yourself is awesome.
You will be into this motor rebuild pretty cheap.
Q

thedon809
11-11-2009, 07:28 PM
When it's all said and done. I will have around 1000 into the motor with all the t2 conversion parts and little stuff.

turbokid
11-11-2009, 07:32 PM
Thats pretty dang good for rebuilding the whole motor the way you are.
If you need 86 daytona specific parts lmk.
I have a whole 86 c/s 2.2 5 speed parts car complete.
Q

thedon809
11-11-2009, 08:54 PM
I got my crank back from the machine shop. The mains had .010 taken off and the rod journals were polished with .001 taken off. Finding clevite .001 undersize rod bearings was tough.

thedon809
11-16-2009, 06:01 PM
Did some little stuff while I'm still waiting for parts.
Ported the oil pump hole.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/image001-2.jpg
Made an inlet for the turbo.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/image001-1.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/image001-3.jpg

86Shelby
11-16-2009, 07:27 PM
I have an old adapter that was from TU or FWDP to make the TI compressor housing into a TII spec piece. If I can find it tonight would you be interested in it? It is a good deal shorter than what you made and is intended to duplicate the factory size & fit.

thedon809
11-16-2009, 07:42 PM
That would be nice but I'm already -200 dollars on my build haha. I can always cut it shorter if I needed to.

thedon809
11-26-2009, 03:33 PM
I got the mains plasti gauged and they speced out to .0015-.002. Just waiting for my arp main bolts to come in and the motor goes together.

thedon809
12-06-2009, 02:57 PM
I've been thinking of where I'm going to go with the build and here it is.
Step 1 is where I'm pretty much at now. The setup is this:
86 block
cast crank
shotpeened, dart coated t2 rods
.020 over wiseco pistons
mexican swirl head with back cut valves
turbo roller cam
arp head, rod and main bolts
1 piece intake, stock TB, t2 injectors, and stock intercooler
UDP
built atx
Mild weight reduction
My goal for this setup is to run a mid 14

After I'm satisfied with this I plan to go with:
Ported 2 piece intake
ported head
massive FMIC
holset hy35 or some other holset
enough fuel to support a lot of boost
maybe a peloquin diff too

thedon809
12-08-2009, 07:19 PM
Here are the latest pics. Just need arp main studs and it goes in. They are kind of crappy.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image001-4.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image001-3-1.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image001-5.jpg

turbokid
12-08-2009, 09:49 PM
Very nice.
Get that motor in forsure!
Q

BIGBRUDDA
12-09-2009, 09:59 AM
Ya Doin great Kid !!

This feels like DE JAVU !:D

thedon809
12-09-2009, 04:48 PM
Except my daytona is busted a rusted.

thedon809
01-23-2010, 07:14 PM
Almost done now. Just need to put on the flexplate, bolt on the tranny, and drop her in.
I noticed the coolant and oil feed lines are in the way of the turbo outlet. Anyone have any pictures on how the turbo is clocked on a stock t2?
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/jkhlkjhl.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/nhkljholuhuo.jpg
The screen on the turbo is just temporary.

Vigo
01-24-2010, 01:09 AM
That looks correct. The stock lower intercooler hose curves pretty much right away and there's no contact with those lines.

As for your current build.. Just throwing on bigger injectors and the tuning to match will get you the potential for far better than mid 14s.

thedon809
01-24-2010, 03:47 PM
When you say tuning, do you mean like running a zenier diode and running more boost with the bigger injectors? I will eventually put in a 3 bar setup with bigger injectors, fuel pump etc.

thedon809
01-27-2010, 08:39 PM
IT'S IN THE HOLE!!!!!!
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/image0013.jpg

Vigo
01-27-2010, 11:39 PM
When you say tuning, do you mean like running a zenier diode and running more boost with the bigger injectors?

Well, i would never run a zener diode. The only thing you can do with it is avoid overboost cutout, but it doesnt improve the way the car runs in any way.

I would put bigger injectors in the motor you have with no changes, and get a 2-bar calibration from one of the vendors, or members here who may be willing to help you.

The bigger injectors basically support more boost. Fuel requirements go up as airflow goes up, but unless you are porting and modifying everything in the flowpath, the only way we really change airflow is with MORE BOOST! :p

With a good 2-bar calibration and some +20 injectors, you should have enough fuel go to at least 17 psi, while removing the overboost cutout (which is good just for boost control purposes as it becomes difficult to avoid hitting it once your desired boost is over ~13 psi).

It would be better to have a 3-bar map sensor and calibration right away, but i can tell you that as a practical matter you CAN just put bigger injectors in your motor, get a 2 bar cal, and run better than mid 14s with no other changes to the actual hard parts of the motor.

But of course, the only way to know FOR SURE if you have enough fuel for a given situation (even if you do have bigger injectors and a cal, components can fail!) is to get a wideband o2 sensor and gauge, which cost around the same or less than a set of injectors and a cal.

thedon809
02-04-2010, 06:29 PM
Just have to get the stupid drivers side axle in that doesn't want to go in and that's it.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/980y78967809.jpg

thedon809
02-12-2010, 04:38 PM
It runs!!!! I got everything together and it wouldn't spark. I put in a new hep and that didn't fix it. I found that the sensor ground pin on the LM connector wasn't seated all the way in. I fixed it and then it sparked. After that I found the ignition timing to be way too advanced even with the timing marks lined up perfectly. So I put it at TDC, loosened belt up, and put it so the rotor pointed to #1 cyl.

After that it started but had 0 oil pressure. Needless to say I was pissed. I then filled up the filter with oil and kept putting it on, taking off until it filled the pump. It then started right up and read 60 psi of oil pressure.

All I have to do now is fix a tranny leak, coolant leak, hook up tps pigtail that's coming in the mail, and set base timing.

turbokid
02-14-2010, 02:38 AM
Very nice. Nice to see it all come together. All the little things.

glhturbo1985
02-15-2010, 12:36 AM
You should have one strong, reliable 8 valve motor there when you're all done. Let us know how much improvement is felt! Was it a stock 2.2 T1 Turbo Z CS before the breakdown and rebuild? Thanks for sharing all the pics with us.

thedon809
02-15-2010, 04:37 PM
You should have one strong, reliable 8 valve motor there when you're all done. Let us know how much improvement is felt! Was it a stock 2.2 T1 Turbo Z CS before the breakdown and rebuild? Thanks for sharing all the pics with us.Pretty much. All it had was an udp, fwdp 14psi cal, and open downpipe. I think the biggest improvement is the torque converter. It had an n/a TC that is 2100 stall +/- 100. Turbo TC is around 3100 stall. It was a complete dog before from a stop.

thedon809
02-19-2010, 05:59 PM
I took it for it's first test drive. HOLY ----, it's a completely different animal. I still have a ton of bugs to work out though. It's only pulling 10-12in hg at idle, needs an alignment, another coolant leak, speedo don't work, temp gauge isn't working, etc.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/jhhpoiuhoi.jpg

turbokid
02-19-2010, 06:10 PM
Looking good man!

thedon809
02-19-2010, 06:14 PM
Hey, do you have any lower part of the seatbelt that bolts to the car? Mine was really rusty where it bolted down.

glhturbo1985
02-20-2010, 12:16 AM
I hope the weather breaks soon up there (My home state is PA) so you can take some more pics:minus the white evil! lol.

thedon809
03-01-2010, 06:03 PM
Here's a little video of it running.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqDoRAEN954
And some shitty pictures.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/0301101539-02.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/0301101539-01.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/daytona/0301101539-00.jpg

glhturbo1985
03-02-2010, 12:12 AM
Do you have to drive it up onto 2x4's or 2x6's to get a jackstand under the front end, like me :)
???

turbokid
03-02-2010, 09:53 PM
LOL you should get that body fixed. Come to KC and I will hook you up with a nicely paint front clip!
Sounds good. Glad its running. I like your rims.

thedon809
03-02-2010, 11:34 PM
Kansas is waaaaaaay too far away. I'm not worried about the body. Eventually I will pull the engine/tranny and find a rust free shell when I move to SC. This body will probably end up getting scrapped. Rust is just too much and it's been hit at one point. I'm planning on getting a charger and doing a full resto with every upgrade possible and more. That won't be for a few years though. I did manage to get the speedo working and temp gauge working today.

thedon809
03-04-2010, 10:24 PM
5 psi of boost with a huge leak now = 14psi with a log manny.