Skibbe's Shelby Charger Updates!

[Skibbe]

Progress is being made, so I figured it was time to start a log of the activities. Besides, random posts in the "What have you done lately" thread are harder to follow a project through it's stages!

Introducing, one 1986 Shelby Charger:
http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/86SCblue_files/scatthetrack2.jpg

[Skibbe]

Space for links to other threads:

Fuel System Upgrades: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15436

Video at track, 10-25-09: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43741

[Skibbe]

Current State:


2.5L engine, Venolia forged slugs,~7.5:1 Comp, balance shafts removed
Mopar +1mm valve Mild Ported Race head, RP cam gear
Fidanza aluminum flywheel, RPS 4 puck clutch, TIII pressure plate
52mm TB on STOCK 1pc intake, Spearco 1080cfm Intercooler, BadAssPerformance spec Fluidyne radiator
Ported stock exhaust manifold, External TiAL 38mm wastegate evacuating between cyl's 2-3
BadAssPerformance spec Turbonetics T3/T4 with 60-1 HiFi cold side and Stage 3 .63 A/R hot side
+40% injectors, TU fuel rail, -8 AN feed, Aeromotive AFPR, Walbro 255L/hr
S60 harness and Paul Vellicky custom calibrated SMEC
'94 A523, 3.77 gears, Ed Peters clutch type limited slip differential




Ported stock exhaust manifold with a TiAL 38mm evacuating between cylinders 2 and 3:
http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/86SCblue_files/exhaustmanifold.jpg

2.5" downpipe:
http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/86SCblue_files/downpipe.jpg

Engine bay just before fuel system upgrades:
http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/86SCblue_files/builtengine.jpg

[Skibbe]

Track Day Update 10-25-09!

Awesome weather at the track, ended up being glad JT was a jerk and woke me up at 7:30AM on a Sunday...

Had the Shelby Charger all fixed up from fueling and bent shifter issues last trip to the track. Bolted on the slicks right away this time.

Run 1 (Around 18 PSI, I yanked all boost control off the car, so this is double whatever spring is in the TiAL. Slicks at 12psi, I thought see below)
60' 2.219
330' 5.823
1/8 8.669
MPH 121.85 < Dude! Yeah right...
1000 11.093
1/4 13.134
MPH 110.36

Ok, so MPH is there, car was strong, 60' sucked.

Run 2 (Set slicks at a fake 10 psi, better burnout)
60' 2.053
330' .000
1/8 8.454
MPH 86.88
1000 10.884
1/4 12.923
MPH 110.79

At the line, staging director knocked on my window and said my muffler was awfully low... I told him it was mounted vertical (it's a wide dynomax) but should be fine... Well. he was right and I bounced the muffler off the track since one of the band clamps came off... OOPS. First 12 in this Charger though, 60' still sucked

Run 3 (Pulled off hanging muffler and rest of 3" exhaust to run open downpipe this round. Slicks still at fake 10psi)
60' 2.025
330' .000
1/8 8.486
MPH 85.30
1000 10.947
1/4 13.004
MPH 109.91

Got out of the hole a little better, but spun second hard after 60'. 1/4 and MPH similar to full exhaust, so the 3" exhaust certainly isn't hurting this set-up. Similar to JT's results in the Shadow back-to-back.

Run 4 (Back in the pits JT tried his gauge on my slicks... showed about 16psi. Ouch. So my 10psi was 16 and my 12 psi was probably 18psi. Now they're really down to 12 psi)
60' 1.981
330' 5.404
1/8 8.226
MPH 86.86
1000 10.655
1/4 12.699
MPH 110.19

Much better! Didn't get a good burn out, but launched better. 60' is coming down and 1/4 came down to match. Still think time can be shaved off with driver mod.

Run 5 (Dropped slicks again to 11psi, hella good burnout, slicks are hot and sticky... hoping for a 1.8xx)
Smoke at line, dumped coolant all over the line. Radiator shifted over, melted insulation on the alternator wire, arc'd a hole in the radiator, coolant spraying everywhere.

Doh!

Oh well, really happy to get some good runs in this year finally. Fuel system is good to go. One-piece intake is probably hurting the most at this point. Will have experienced Fluidyne welding tech JT patch the hole and maybe make it out to Turbopalooza.

[blk86trbo]

Sure is a nice looking Charger Mike, glad to see you getting some good runs out of it...maybe I can see it at the November meeting? :D

[BadAssPerformance]

[B]Awesome weather at the track, ended up being glad JT was a jerk and woke me up at 7:30AM on a Sunday...

Anytime :D


Will have experienced Fluidyne welding tech JT patch the hole and maybe make it out to Turbopalooza.

Sitting next to my desk, should have time today... :thumb:

[Skibbe]

I forgot to take pics of the carnage! You have a camera at work?

[BadAssPerformance]

I already cleaned it up last night... but check your txt's

[Skibbe]

Fluidyne carnage:

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/86SCblue_files/radiatorcarnage.jpg

[dodgeshadowchik]

ouch!

nice car, tho! and you're off to a great start! :D I bet seeing that 12-sec slip was an awesome feeling!

[22shelby]

Nice runs skibbe! i wish i woulda come up for that one, if u dont mind id like to use ur fuel system as inspiration on mine i was thinking sump also, never thought about modifing the sending unit bulkhead. :thumb:. i like the fuel rail setup! i think that would get rid of my FPR o-ring woows.

[Skibbe]

I wouldn't have posted photos if I didn't want to share the set-up, so go ahead! Just don't mess with the factory wiring plug like I did! Too easy to leak, and probably no gain by going to 12ga inside the tank, you really only need to re-run from the ASD back to the tank with 12ga to prevent voltage drop, if you don't have 14V back there to begin with. The short run of smaller gauge wire won't affect the pump... But the bulkhead fittings worked out great to get the fuel in and out!

[Skibbe]

Sure is a nice looking Charger Mike, glad to see you getting some good runs out of it...maybe I can see it at the November meeting? :D

Thanks! I always seem to have other stuff getting in the way on Saturdays, but maybe next month will work out.

[raccoon]

the rad should be an easy fix. :)

[BadAssPerformance]

the rad should be an easy fix. :)

It was :thumb:

[Skibbe]

JT got the radiator welded up, and since the coolant already finished draining out of the car, seemed like a good time to pull the head and swap on a borrowed two-piece for a back to back intake test.

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/86SCblue_files/TwopieceIntakeInstalled.jpg

Both intakes had the inlet hobbed out for the 52mm TB, but are otherwise stock. Should be a good comparison if the weather cooporates for one more trip to the track this year... or for Turbopalooza.

[BadAssPerformance]

Lookin good! :thumb:

[blk86trbo]

Looks good Mike...I'm digging those wrenches too!

[Skibbe]

Haha, those be thems AN fitting wrenches. I grabbed them for the JIC fittings on the turbo lines since they were handy and the right sizes, but otherwise they get used so as not to scuff the fancy anodizing on the AN fittings.

[Skibbe]

Got the alternator wiring patched up. #4 wire patched in with a mechanical splice, new terminal, and clipped the pin on the plastic mount so I could rotate it 180 degrees so the power wire isn't anywhere near the radiator any more.

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/86SCblue_files/RevisedAltWiring.jpg

Was almost all set for Turbopalooza, but had a death in the family and now have a funeral to attend on Saturday. Doh!

[BadAssPerformance]

Looks great!

Sorry about your grandma bro, my condolences.

[Skibbe]

Quick 2011 update. Brought the car out to SDAC this year. Had fun at the car show, and took it racing at Union Grove. First trip down the track something popped at the 1/8th mile. Car died. Popped the hood on the return road and found the coil bouncing around, it launched off it's bracket. Got it plugged back in, car restarted but was skipping. Messed with it some at the track but finally gave up and went home guessing it was a popped head gasket. Regular grocery items are what you may possible spot on the Food Lion Ad (https://www.weeklyads2.com/food-lion/).

33379

While pulling the head for a gasket swap, I found a rocker had shot out. Guess that was the cause of the missing. Seeing oil in the water though, I proceeded with the head gasket change.

It's back together and running well, but I think I'm chasing a charging problem as well. I really haven't driven it for long periods of time since the alternator power wire burned a hole in the radiator. Car show day the car ended up not wanting to start... I had to jump it to get it back on the trailer. I had it on the battery charger overnight before drag racing, but a couple days later it was dead again.

I'm wondering what could have fried when the power wired shorted out against the radiator 2 years ago. I don't get the 12-14volts at the battery with the car running. If I run my meter from the alternator power wire to a ground strap, it shows like 44-something volts which has me questioning the volt meter. OTC-2000 shows battery voltage under 12 volts car running also, so I think that part is correct.

So I haven't narrowed it down to an alternator or voltage regulator problem yet. I guess I can pull the alternator and have autozone or someone test it, right? Otherwise I have an external voltage regulator to try.

[BadAssPerformance]

Could be the alternator or the computer... shoulda drove it over Saturday for Team SDAC Chicago to diagnose it at the meet, LOL :thumb:

[Skibbe]

LOL, needed to bring the truck to get the core support home for the GLHS. If I didnt have to catch dinner with the inlaws I could have run home to swap.

I decided the GLHS needs an alternator anyway, so I have another Nippo on the way.

[Skibbe]

Spent today upgrading the charging system. My battery charging issue was one of three things, alternator, wiring, or voltage regulator. So rather than test each, I just swapped everything.

I installed a brand new Bosch Nippendenso-style alternator along with an external regulator. The alternator, regulator, and pigtail for the regulator were all available from Rock Auto.

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/Voltage-Regulator/Voltage-Regulator-Install-0.jpg
Since I'm using the newer style alternator and tensioner, I don't have to worry about getting a socket and extension through the adjuster hole in the core support on my Charger. So, I mounted the voltage regulator to the core support right by the alternator.

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/Voltage-Regulator/Voltage-Regulator-Install-1.jpg
After burning a hole in the positive wire from the alternator with my hot radiator... I had already removed the positive wire from the plastic alternator connector. I decided to finish deconstructing the plastic piece with a hack saw in order to separate the alternator ground wire and the field wires. The field wires were getting replaced, but be careful not to nick the ground wire.

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/Voltage-Regulator/Voltage-Regulator-Install-2.jpg
Here is everthing out of the plastic shroud. The ground wire keeps it's screw terminal. The green wire isn't used, as it runs to the internal voltage regulator in the SMEC. The blue wire is a +12v Switched source and needs to be extended to pick up one field connection on the alternator and the middle pin on the external voltage regulator.

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/Voltage-Regulator/Voltage-Regulator-Install-3.jpg
Add some 18ga stranded wire, preferably blue, to the blue wire. Leave it long so we can cut to fit later... about a foot will do.

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/Voltage-Regulator/Voltage-Regulator-Install-4.jpg
If you trace the green wire back in this alternator sub harness, you'll find that it terminates in a connector. Pull the internal keeper from the plug, and unlatch the pin that is soldered to the green wire to remove it from the connector housing.

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/Voltage-Regulator/Voltage-Regulator-Install-5.jpg
Just in case you want to change everything back, you can tape the green wire/pin back along the harness to keep it out of the way. If you don't care, you can cut it off or remove the entire green wire from this harness. Either way we're just making sure the internal regulator in the SMEC isn't fighting our new regulator. Severing this green wire does the trick.

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/Voltage-Regulator/Voltage-Regulator-Install-6.jpg
Now you can reinstall the alternator sub harness, and go ahead and make the connections to the new regulator. The blue field wire (+12v Switched) picks up one of the field connections on the alternator and then continues to the middle pin of the voltage regulator. Solder on a screw terminal to make the connection to the alternator. The green wire simply runs from the other pin on the regulator to the remaining field connection on the alternator. You can also see that I added a black jumper to run from the alternator ground wire to the body of the regulator. In theory the regulator is grounded through the screws holding it to the core support, but I wanted to provide some insurance.

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/Voltage-Regulator/Voltage-Regulator-Install-7.jpg
Bundle those wire in electrical tape or friction tape to keep everything tidy and you're all ready to go.

Here's a diagram that might help anyone else doing the external regulator modification. It's not hard, but I had to review a couple sources to make sure I understood everything.

http://cgwrr.com/Mopar/Voltage-Regulator/Voltage-Regulator-Diagram.jpg

[glhs727]

nice write up on the external voltage regulator install!

[BadAssPerformance]

+1, need to make it a KC article :thumb:

[Skibbe]

+1, need to make it a KC article :thumb:

Sure, is that something you can move JT?

[BadAssPerformance]

I just made it an article but it went to the article KC, not the new KC... Hmmm... asked Frank about it... please hold

[slantsixdan]

Very good writeup. Keep in mind that the later cars (maybe starting with '90 models? Certainly by '92) will trigger the Check Engine light and throw a code if you do this, because the SBEC doesn't see the field resistance of the alternator and interprets it as an open-circuit fault. Easy fix: measure the resistance of your alternator's field circuit -- disconnect the field wires and turn the alternator by hand while you probe across the two field terminals with an ohmmeter -- then put a resistor of similar value across the car's original two field wires that go to the SBEC. That'll give the SBEC a resistance to look at so it stays happy and quiet. Meanwhile your external voltage regulator is doing the actual regulating. Keep in mind also you can get an adjustable version of this voltage regulator.

[Skibbe]

Just to add to the above write up, make note that there is a fusible link between the alternator and the battery, and it's a good idea to check it out while working on your charging system...

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?61238-Charging-Issues

All good now and ready to hit the track.

[Skibbe]

Hit the track for Puerto Rico vs Midwest Import Wars Day at Great Lakes with JT on Sunday. We didn't understand any of the track announcements, but the test n tune lanes weren't busy so it was a good day to go.

This was attempt #2 to get some times in on the two piece intake. Attempt #1 was SDAC-21 where I broke on the first run. But this time I got some track time in with the two-piece intake. Car is otherwise the same as it was 2-years ago when I ran 12.69 on the same set-up with a one-piece intake.

I know it's not back-to-back with the 2-year delay, but looking at MPH I didn't pick up anything with the two-piece.

Run 1 (Off the trailer, slicks at ~13psi cold, colder morning air)
60' 1.916
330' 5.386
1/8 8.246
MPH 85.52
1000 10.692
1/4 12.738
MPH 110.41

Ok, picking right up where I left off in 2009 where best run on the one-piece was 12.69@110.


Run 2 (Slicks down to ~13psi hot)
60' 1.918
330' 5.507
1/8 8.441
MPH 83.62
1000 10.936
1/4 13.013
MPH 108.61

Banged third this run. 60' still not good.

Run 3 (Checked slicks while hot from last run, dropped another psi to bring to 13 again. Day is warming up)
60' 1.920
330' 5.392
1/8 8.272
MPH 83.37
1000 10.791
1/4 12.890
MPH 107.74

Clean run, car feels good, but losing some power as the day heats up? 60' still high.

Run 4 (Dropped slicks to 11 psi hot)
60' 1.844
330' 5.253
1/8 8.099
MPH 86.25
1000 10.551
1/4 12.621 <--New best
MPH 108.61 <--Identical to Run 2

I probably should have refreshed my own memory by reading this thread before I went back to the track, since I kept dropping the slick pressure last trip too. I'll probably go straight to 10psi next trip out.

No noticeable gain on this set-up by switching to two-piece intake. After starting to load up I remembered that something else did change between the two track days... I discovered the knock sensor wire wasn't hooked up in the S60 harness. So possibly some knock was pulling back timing now that the sensor is hooked up? I can't imagine that I'm near the end of the fuel system to have any knock, since I'm running relatively conservative boost (no vacuum lines to wastegate, twice the 8psi spring) but I'm throwing that out as a caveat.

But, that's enough monkeying around at the track. The car is running strong, charge system repairs are good, time to let the 60-1 HiFi breathe some life into this 7.5:1 ratio 2.5l. I'll be swapping out the wastegate spring and going for broke.

[W.P._Turbocars]

Just did the conversion on my 90 omni. Worked out good but the CEL is on now. Code 41. Either way its holding charge now. :thumb:

[Skibbe]

I'm back. Time to get this show on the road again.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=64259&stc=1

[Skibbe]

So the car went through two owners, but I bought it back. One of the things I never got around to last time I owned it was fixing the missing stripes. Both the lower pin stripe at the ground effects and the pin along the skunk stripe needed patching. It was extra annoying that the factory didn't line up the paint on the body panels... without factory stripe kits there is no way to hide a 1/2" misalignment. But I did my best with two widths of trim tape.

Missing lower stripe on door, added stripe, fixing misaligned skunk stripe and adding 1/4" outline, fixed and in the sun.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

Really nice car!!
wish mine was blue too

[shmedley]

Now get that GLHS back together! :eyebrows:
I think I'll be plasma cutting the parts car after I get back from Drag Week. If you need anything from it besides windshield let me know

[Skibbe]

Now get that GLHS back together! :eyebrows:
I think I'll be plasma cutting the parts car after I get back from Drag Week. If you need anything from it besides windshield let me know

Thanks! I need lots of bits of sheet metal, so if any of the following are in good shape:

1) Metal above windshield before sunroof.
2) The metal between passenger frame rail and inner fender, up front. This would be the area that has the vapor canister mounted.
3) Base of driver A pillar where it meets cowl (rust hole)
4) Firewall, specifically where AC passes through and coolant passes through. Those areas were pounded flat and blocked off.
5) Spare tire well

I think that is every area with issues, and not flat and easy to replace without stampings.

[Skibbe]

Really nice car!!
wish mine was blue too

Thanks! I really like the blue interiors, it was what caught my eye when I saw my first one. I guess a blue interior in a GLHS would have been the best of both worlds.

[shmedley]

Thanks! I need lots of bits of sheet metal, so if any of the following are in good shape:

1) Metal above windshield before sunroof.
2) The metal between passenger frame rail and inner fender, up front. This would be the area that has the vapor canister mounted.
3) Base of driver A pillar where it meets cowl (rust hole)
4) Firewall, specifically where AC passes through and coolant passes through. Those areas were pounded flat and blocked off.
5) Spare tire well

I think that is every area with issues, and not flat and easy to replace without stampings.


When I start cutting I'll let you know and you can come by and we can get what you need. Just not the antenna

[Skibbe]

Awesome.

And I found another antenna to bend up. I want to be cool again.

[Skibbe]

Had a wandering passenger front wheel. Checked the bushing that holds the rack to the k frame first, didn't solve the problem. (Though if anyone knows how to find a manual rack passenger side rubber bushing, let me know... RockAuto keeps sending one for a power rack)

Well, it ended up being the internal bushing in the rack itself. The plastic stock bushing disintegrated into about 60 pieces. An oilite bushing was installed, documented at this thread here: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?80596-L-body-Manual-Steering-Rack-Help&highlight=

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=64275&stc=1

I put a new inner tie rod end on while it was apart. Much better now.

[Skibbe]

I've been eyeing the old intercooler piping... it is showing its age, the wrinkle black is scrapped up, and it was run for convenience over form. The crossed over pipes are difficult to work on and just look cluttered. The BOV seems to be leaking at about 20PSI as well. It is just a first gen DSM BOV.

So time for some aluminum replacements. And some practice welding thin aluminum...

[BadAssPerformance]

I've been eyeing the old intercooler piping... it is showing its age, the wrinkle black is scrapped up, and it was run for convenience over form. The crossed over pipes are difficult to work on and just look cluttered. The BOV seems to be leaking at about 20PSI as well. It is just a first gen DSM BOV.

So time for some aluminum replacements. And some practice welding thin aluminum...

Looking good. Remember to keep the puddle moving

[Skibbe]

All welded up. I didn't like the polished look, so I scuffed them up with a purple scotchbrite for a brushed look.

I left room to run a 3" pipe for the inlet to the turbo... but the big K&N I picked up interfers with the shift linkage. Need to either lower that bracket or just run the 3" up into the nose.