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ShelGame
10-23-2009, 09:22 PM
So, I thought it was about time to put a log of my Minivan project.

I bought this from Jason Hagger last spring with the intention of making it a daily driver (with no car payment!).

Here are the pics of it as it sat in Jason's yard. I pretty much bought it by the pics, since it's a 2+ hour drive over to get it. Unless it was rotted to hell, it was coming home with me. For a van originally sold in Maine, it's actually really clean underneath. The only rust is on the front of the RH rear fender lip.

The van is really for me to drive to work, but I will occasionally need to transport at least 2 of my 3 kids. The van had no rear seats at all in it from Jason. But, a quick Craigslist search turned up a 3rd row bench from a '91 Voyager for $10. It made for a real long return trip home, but I stopped and picked up the bench after picking up the van. The upholstrey isn't a match, but at least it's maroon, too.

Sgt Craig
10-23-2009, 09:30 PM
What the hell is a fuel pacer.Ive never seen that.Your van is in great shape!

ShelGame
10-23-2009, 09:37 PM
OK, so this was originally a 1989 2.5 TBI Plymouth Voyager. Of course, it will go turbo. However, the original trans was a A520 - not exactly up to the task of the 2.5 Turbo. Jason also happened to have a 3.77 ratio large spline A523 from a '90's Shadow. We made it part of the deal. He also threw in the shifter and cables from the P-Body.

The wheels/tires that came on the van are obviously not staying. Plus, Jason wanted the rims back (partially in exchange for the trans). So, the first order of business was to find wheels and tires to put the van on. I found a cool set of rims on Craigslist again (for $100). And a set of tires on eBay. Total price for the wheels and tires was like $200 with mounting and balancing.

The first pic is a 'concept' pic that vntodd whipped up for me...

ShelGame
10-23-2009, 09:39 PM
2nd order of business was to get the trans and shifter swapped over. I only have a couple of after pics of the A523 hanging in there. I didn't get any 'in-progress' pics...

ShelGame
10-23-2009, 09:42 PM
I picked up a Turbo Mini harness from TD.com. It needed to be cleaned and re-tapped. That was about a half days worth of work. But, well worth it. I found a couple of frayed wires that I'm sure would've caused me fits if I hadn't fixed them before trying it in the van.

Working in the auto industry has it's perks. I have several rolls of 2 different kinds of actual production harness tape. :)

Captain Chaos
10-23-2009, 09:43 PM
New tow rig for the Daytona. Looks good. Plus its a like a at track junk yard to rob parts in case of breakage.

ShelGame
10-23-2009, 09:44 PM
I actually hope to be able to tow my little trailer with it. I think it will do it. The trailer by itself doesn't weigh but maybe 800lbs (open deck, just 2 rails for the tires).

Captain Chaos
10-23-2009, 09:48 PM
I have several rolls of 2 different kinds of actual production harness tape. :)

I have a part number for some cloth electrical tape thats used on our Audi harnesses. Kind of pricey but nice stuff.

ShelGame
10-23-2009, 09:59 PM
Of course, one of the main reasons I was able to talk my wife into this project was the fact that I have a garage full of spare parts - blocks, cranks, heads, pistons, rods. Really, just about everything this van was missing I had in the garage.

So, next on the agenda was to get an engine built for it. I looked at all of my stock bore 2.5 CB's and picked the one with the best looking bores. Since the bores looked pretty good, and since I had a set of used stock bore Mahles, I decided I was just going to hone/ring it. Again, I didn't get any in-progress pics. But, I just used a ball hone to clean up the cylinders. I then degreased and stripped the block in the driveway. And took it to the car wash and hit it with the pressure washer. I dried it off and oiled it up good while waiting to assemble it.

I then went thru my 2.5 cranks and picked the one with the best looking/stock sized journals. Turned out to be the crank that came out of the block I was already using (both bought at a swap meet the year before, the guy had told me they were from his minivan - ah, it was meant to be). I polished a couple of the journals with 2000 grit and oil just because of some dis-coloration. I cleaned and re-used the rods that came with the pistons.

I picked the best head that I had. Unfortunately, only half of the valve guides had the circlips. So, off it went to the machine shop for new guides. 3 weeks later (and $200 poorer) I got the head back with new guides and a fresh valve job. Since I got a good deal on PT lifters on eBay a while back, this head will be the first time for me to try them (the 2nd set will go in the Daytona for next season).

I also had decided that this will not be a stock-class legal van. So, it will get a Garret and an I/C. I traded Bigbrudda some cal work for a VNT I/C, and I bought/built a T1/T2 conversion turbo. For what I plan to use the van for, I think it will be more than adequate. It'll certainly be better than a Mitsu. Unfortunately, no pics of the head with the turbo/manifolds installed :(

ShelGame
10-23-2009, 09:59 PM
I have a part number for some cloth electrical tape thats used on our Audi harnesses. Kind of pricey but nice stuff.

Mine were 'samples' from our electrical department. :)

ShelGame
10-23-2009, 10:07 PM
While the head was out at the machine shop, I decided it would be a good time to tackle a couple of other things the van needed. I installed a walbro 255, put new rear shocks on it, and relined the head liner.

When I got the van from Jason, the headliner had been pulled down. It was just the backer board with some old nasty gooey foam on it. I bought some maroon headliner material on eBay for like $40 shipped (for reference, 3 yards is just enough to do a SWB van...). The color is not a good match at all to the original headliner, but it is a near perfect match to the color of the interior plastics. The only problem is the sun visors don't look right anymore. I have a little material left over that I'll use to try and cover the visors.

Al in all, this was a very rewarding part of the project. I had never done a headliner before (never done any kind of upholstery at all), so I was a little concerned. I think it came out very nice. It doesn't relly look factory-new, but it does look really good. Certainly 1000x better than gooey foam...

ShelGame
10-23-2009, 10:16 PM
After I got the head back, I got the engine all assembled and last weekend, I put it in. My preferred method is to install the shortblock, then install starter, starter harness, P/S pump - basically all the stuff that's near impossible to get at with the head on. Then finally install the head complete with turbo and manifolds.

Again, no in-progress pics. I was too busy, and the camera batteries crapped out on me again.

Since this pic, I've got the engine timed and the timing belt installed, and the fuel hoses replaced. I still don't have the alternator harness cleaned up. So, that's next on the list. Also, the P-Body crossover shifter cable is WAY too tight. Jason was just by tonight to pick up his wheels and 520 trans. He dropped off a set of Daytona cables. So, I'll have to swap over the crossover cable before I get to much more installed. Then I have to mount up the old racing exhaust from the Daytona (it dumps to the ground right after the muffler - might be a little loud :) ) and then see if it starts. After that, I still need to fab up mounts for my rad/cond/intercooler combo. I'll make sure to take good pics of that as I think it will be pretty unique.

ShelGame
10-23-2009, 10:17 PM
What the hell is a fuel pacer.Ive never seen that.Your van is in great shape!

The 'Fuel Pacer' was the upshift indicator they put on the TBI vans to help you get better fuel mileage - basically by short shifting...

Sgt Craig
10-23-2009, 10:27 PM
The 'Fuel Pacer' was the upshift indicator they put on the TBI vans to help you get better fuel mileage - basically by short shifting...


Interesting.I guess now it be a good place for a high RPM shift light!

ShelGame
10-23-2009, 10:29 PM
Interesting.I guess now it be a good place for a high RPM shift light!

I was thinking about using it for the knock indicator, actually.

Sgt Craig
10-23-2009, 10:31 PM
I was thinking about using it for the knock indicator, actually.


Another good use.Ill keep on the lookout for one.Van is looking good!

raccoon
10-23-2009, 11:03 PM
man i wish I had will power to do things, great work!!! van is going to be killer.

DBB mini
10-23-2009, 11:31 PM
Nice progress. :thumb:

ShelGame
10-24-2009, 07:50 PM
I guess a little bit about future plans is in order.

I have a set of Daytona struts (only OEM style monroes, nothing special). And, I'd like to get the rear springs de-arched. And, at 140k, the van could use polybushings at all corners. I'd also like to add a rear swap bar. But, I think I've run out of time and money this fall. Maybe next spring.

Also, the van could really use some paint. It's just a van, so a stock re-paint is order. Probably a Maaco special. Maybe in the spring.

Though, this van will have a flashable computer and one of my USB cable setups. It will be a rolling laboratory for Turbonator. Something I've really been missing this year since I didn't take the race car out.

Finally, it will definitely get a reciever for towing the race car to events.

blk86trbo
10-24-2009, 09:24 PM
Looks great Rob, thanks for sharing!

bakes
10-24-2009, 09:31 PM
I actually hope to be able to tow my little trailer with it. I think it will do it. The trailer by itself doesn't weigh but maybe 800lbs (open deck, just 2 rails for the tires).

You will be surprised what it will pull when you are done. recomend rear air bags or shocks for two reasons ( level the rear when loaded and to jack up the rear when you need to stage it:eyebrows:)

ShelGame
10-24-2009, 11:11 PM
You will be surprised what it will pull when you are done. recomend rear air bags or shocks for two reasons ( level the rear when loaded and to jack up the rear when you need to stage it:eyebrows:)

Yeah, I just put new shocks on the rear, but they cost all of $20. Air shocks will definitely be in order next spring with all the other suspension fixes. I really need to spruce up my trailer as well.

ShelGame
10-25-2009, 10:06 PM
Today, I finished up the wiring, got everything except the fans hooked up (the fans aren't in it yet). Now, I need to build a vacuum harness for it and see if it will start. Should be this week...

Vigo
10-26-2009, 04:02 PM
I was wondering who had ended up with that van.. Im glad im not the only one who saw the potential of it.

But im pretty surprised that you thought the 520 couldnt take a stockish motor.. it would have worked fine if the trans was in decent shape. But 523 is much more pleasant anyway.

My van is factory tbi/523 converted to turbo. Unfortunately, though, i got into a time crunch with my GRM car over the summer and never finished it. It mostly just needs a fuel pump to start :p BTW, so does yours if you havent changed it. The tbi pump probably wont make more than 30psi based on my findings :(

Lookin good, keep it coming.

ShelGame
10-26-2009, 07:26 PM
No, It's got a Walbro, now.

Yeah, I swapped the 523 in just to be more pleasnt driving and shifting. And, for gear ratio. I don't plan to run it stockish, either. I plan to run the Garret at 18-20 psi, eventually. And, quite possibly, E85...

Vigo
10-26-2009, 08:00 PM
well thats sort of included in what i was saying, but i didnt make it clear. The Aries is an 89 commonblock 2.5 minivan motor with a garrett on 17 psi and a stock 520. I consider it a stock motor because the only thing im running that didnt come oem on some turbo dodge is the better intercooler. Even the job my +20s are doing could be done by stock injectors on a higher pressure. My manifolds and all are stock. I dynoed 320 lb ft to the wheels, but i still doubt i can break the 520 with power. But its all YMMV. I cant say i wouldnt have upgraded to 523 if i had one, its what makes my van such a nice driver. 520s feel crude.

ShelGame
11-07-2009, 11:27 PM
Today I got the vac harness all redone. Then, I guestimated the distributor position and tried to start it. No dice, I got a couple of pops thru the open downpipe and that's it. Then the battery didn't have enough juice left to turn it over. So, I put it on the battery charger.

While I was waiting for the charger to do it's thing, I installed the old exhasut from the Daytona (2-1/2" DP flared into a 3" pipe, into a magnaflow single 3" in, dual 2-1/2" out that dumps right to the ground). It doesn't quite fit the van right - there's only about 1/2" movement available. The downpipe hits the PS rack and the bottom, and the muffler hits the edge of the heat sheild on the top. So, I guess I'll have to hack up and redo the exhaust. That's OK, I really just needed an excuse to build a dual side exit exhaust anyway. I'll have 1 pipe out each side. Anyway, it's up there and will work for now.

By now, the battery has a decent enough charge to try again. Still just a cough or 2. But, I can smell gas in the exhaust. I hadn't timed the distributor quite close enough. I clocked it about 15 degrees more and tried again.

Eureka! It runs!

Shut it down after a couple of seconds since there's still no cooling system.

I got my timing light out. Set the base timing to 12* and called it good. No apparent leaks of fuel or oil, either.

Then I installed the timing covers and the crank pulley.

When I started it, I didn't have any piping between the turbo and throttle body. The sucking noise is really loud when it's open. So, I cleaned up my T2 air filter housing and hoses and put them on. Then I stripped and re-painted the T2 IC and put it on.

It fits just about perfect in the expanded opening I made for the rad/IC/cond. It's just hanging there right now, but I'll get it mounted tomorrow.

I started it again just to hear if there were any bad noises (couldn't hear anything over the sucking sound the first time). The PT lifters are WAY quieter than the stock stuff in my race car. I think this will be a nice driver when it's all done.

Also, since the battery had a decent charge on it, I tested all of the electrical stuff in the van, since this was really the first time I had power in it since I bought it. Most everything seems to work OK. But, the radio only has 3 speakers (the LH front is out). And, the hatch release clicks, but doesn't release the hatch. I forgot the try the rear wiper.

Next up is getting the rad/cond mounted up. Maybe tomorrow, but more likely next week sometime...

Vigo
11-08-2009, 12:00 AM
Congrats on the progress. I am waiting on an external fuel pump to try and get any farther on mine.


The hatch latch mechanism needs to be cleaned and lubed periodically. Not tough, but be careful with the big interior panel, it cracks easily if you distort it much at all.


Good plan on dual side-exit. I intend to do that too. :thumb:
Any idea on mufflers yet?

blk86trbo
11-08-2009, 12:05 AM
Wheels look nice Rob, it's exciting to hear about it coming together!

ShelGame
11-08-2009, 10:14 AM
Congrats on the progress. I am waiting on an external fuel pump to try and get any farther on mine.


The hatch latch mechanism needs to be cleaned and lubed periodically. Not tough, but be careful with the big interior panel, it cracks easily if you distort it much at all.


Good plan on dual side-exit. I intend to do that too. :thumb:
Any idea on mufflers yet?

I'm going to keep whatever muffler I have on it now (flowmaster 40), just re-route the exhaust so that it's in the right spot and doesn't hit anything. My brother-in-law has a MIG, so we should be able to put it together. Actually, I think I'm going to add a 12" glasspack before the flowmaster as a spacer - I need to lengthen the front tube that much to get the muffler in the right spot.

ShelGame
11-12-2009, 10:12 AM
OK, last night I got the T2 rad/IC setup installed. I have to say, it fits like factory. The LH lower rad mount is in the perfect spot. The RH lower rad mount is all wrong, so I'll have to make something there. I used a 1-1/2" aluminum angle to make the top mounts and bolted it to the top of the rad support. All of the stock T2 radiator and IC hoses fit perfectly. Just need to flush out the heater core and get the heater hoses hooked up and the engine area should be all done. Pics to come...

After that, I still need to re-build the exhaust, and do a string alignment. The camber on both front wheels looks WAY off. I originally thought it was because there was no engine/trans in there and it would be OK once weighted down. But, they're still off but a long way.

ShelGame
11-14-2009, 01:06 PM
It's a good day. Took the van around the block today for the first time.

Got the heater hoses hooked up this morning and filled it up with water. Checked it for leaks and any other issues and around the block we went. Going to let it sit for a bit and try it again. Brakes need to have the rust broken off them from sitting for so long. I was afraid to get it over 25mph for the first trip. I'll work my way up to real speeds and see what shakes loose....

Pics of the rad/ic setup are coming soon...

turbokid
11-14-2009, 01:40 PM
Wow awesome!
Great project! Good luck with it.

ShelGame
11-16-2009, 09:27 AM
OK, so after the initial drive around the block, I came home to install the wiring for the flashable computer (bootstap wire and USB interface cable). And, also to put the actual flashable computer in there (I was running it with just a bare 2.5 T1 Auto computer). I'm going to put the boot switch and USB port where the ashtray used to be. I still need to make a little panel out of the textured ABS I've got laying around (used a ton of that on the Daytona). When I got the lower center console off, I realized how dirty that thing was. It was pretty much full of a gelatinized mass of old coffee, pop, and cigarette ashes. I think it took me an hour just to clean up the console. Felt like I needed a shower after.

Anyway, got it all back in there, and the van won't start. ASD goes nuts. Must be a bad cal. I didn't have time to fix it - I had to get the exhaust down and get it modified. Got it down, cut it where needed and mocked it up. I welded it all back together with my brother-in-laws MIG. I'll get some pics of it tonight. It should be reinstalled tomorrow night. I'll get some pics of it up under the van, to.

Vigo
11-16-2009, 07:39 PM
cant wait to see what you did with the exhaust!

ShelGame
11-20-2009, 08:25 PM
Rad/IC pics. This is a stock T2 rad/IC with a top bracket I made up myself. I still need to add 1 lower bracket to support the rad/IC. It tends to tilt on the RH side. Since these pics, I've put in a stock T2 fan...

ShelGame
11-20-2009, 08:31 PM
Last weekend, I took the exhaust out and over to my brother-in-laws for welding. I used the old exhaust from my Daytona race car (I switched to an open downpipe). But, it didn't quite fit the van right. I needed to lengthen the front tube and change the muffler outlet. I got that all done and today tried to hang it back under the van.

It's a 2-1/2" downpipe that immediately flares into a 3" pipe into a Superflow 40 3" in/dual 2-1/2" outlet muffler. I put 90's on the outlets and sent each to the side of the van. For now, I just have an extension on the outlets. But, eventually I'd like to get some resonators on there.

I didn't have all the hardware to hang the tailpipes, that's why it's sitting on the blocks. I'll get it all hung up tomorrow...

turbokid
11-21-2009, 01:33 PM
Thats a pretty little exhaust system

Vigo
11-21-2009, 09:35 PM
Very cool... this just makes me want to do it even more. Ive got a little different idea for the tips but otherwise looks damn near identical to what i want.

Thing's coming along nicely!

blk86trbo
11-21-2009, 10:07 PM
That looks awesome...it's gonna sound great when you get it installed :thumb:

JohnnyIroc
11-22-2009, 01:38 AM
nice progress:thumb:

ShelGame
11-22-2009, 10:14 AM
That looks awesome...it's gonna sound great when you get it installed :thumb:

I finished hanging it yesteday. Actually, it does sound really good without any resonators. Much better than when it simply dumped under the van...

blk86trbo
11-22-2009, 11:32 AM
I finished hanging it yesteday. Actually, it does sound really good without any resonators. Much better than when it simply dumped under the van...

Oh yeah, I bet it sounds much better...hope to meet you and hear it in person some day at a major event :thumb:

I can't get over how good your van looks with those wheels...both colors compliment each other well. Years ago I owned a burnt cherry turbovan, and really didn't care for the color...but I'm pretty sure if I had a set of rims like yours it would have totally changed my opinion.

ShelGame
11-22-2009, 01:43 PM
Thanks! Hopefully, the budget will allow a trip to Earl Schieb in the spring. Then I can make it looks as good as the concept sketch...

Vigo
11-22-2009, 02:44 PM
Looks like all it would take is a bumper conversion and a drop to get you there!

k-car gr-2s with stock or cut van springs in the front, air lift kit or air shocks and pulled leafs in the back

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AIR-59520/
air shocks: monroe MA803

~$300 and you'll get the looks, better handling, softer ride in the unloaded rear, ability to pick it back up when you load it down.. Its what im going for on mine. :)

ShelGame
11-22-2009, 06:53 PM
Well, it desperately needs paint, too. But, I do want the bumper conversion - possibly even a '91+ front end/hatch converison.

I have a set of Daytona front struts. Already put new (cheap) rear shocks on it. But, it floats down the road like a fully laden oil tanker. It could use a firmer ride for sure.

Vigo
11-22-2009, 08:16 PM
Simon has some 9-way externally adjustable rancho shocks on the back of his van.. those would definitely tighten it up if you want to spend the money.. ~$100 each.

A.J. adapted a front swaybar from a cherokee (iirc) to the rear axle of his van, plus there's the later stock rear sway and i believe an addco bar out there. Fronts you can use the bigger bars off the daytonas and such if you mod it to be endlink style (simon has pics).

Front adjustable struts are basically limited to k-car or van konis, or the subaru adjustables mentioned in the tranny section (mods required). You could probably get cargo coils with a stiffer rate for the front, OR there was a post recently about using early 90s taurus front springs in our struts, which are 40+% stiffer than stock van springs. Or get taurus cargo coils, or SHO coils. Apparently they fit the perches on these struts.

Keep the updates coming, this is looking more and more similar to what i have planned and im getting more and more interested :D

Aries_Turbo
11-29-2009, 05:14 PM
sho coils are 200lb/in in the front and ~160 rear.

rob, are you going to add some sheetmetal to block off the sides of the rad/intercooler? if not, youll overheat on the highway.

Brian

Vigo
11-29-2009, 11:08 PM
^That is good spring info that i was wondering about.. thanks!

ShelGame
11-30-2009, 12:37 AM
sho coils are 200lb/in in the front and ~160 rear.

rob, are you going to add some sheetmetal to block off the sides of the rad/intercooler? if not, youll overheat on the highway.

Brian

I'm going to add a A/C condensor and some metal or foam to block off from the cond over to the RH rad support.

FWIW, it runs very cool as-is - though the high's here have been only in the 40's the past few days...

ShelGame
11-30-2009, 12:40 AM
Oh, and I learned something about the A523/568/543 this weekend that I'll post up tomorrow...

ShelGame
11-30-2009, 09:15 AM
OK, well, lesson learned. Lugnuts for steelies do NOT have enough bearing area for aluminum wheels. Lost the LF on the way to work this morning. Luckily it hit a bush in the median so I didn't have to go too far to get it back. All the remaining wheels were loose, too. And, I just torqued them a few days ago. I stole 1 lug from each of the remaining wheels and limped it into work. I'll borrow a car at lunch and go get some decent lugs for it. Good thing my department has a nice set of tools.

Captain Chaos
11-30-2009, 09:19 AM
Glad you or someone around you wasn't hurt. Any damage to the van?

blk86trbo
11-30-2009, 09:59 AM
Yikes! Sounds like this could have been way worse than it was...holy cow you are lucky!

ShelGame
11-30-2009, 10:11 AM
Yeah, I'm gonna go buy a lottery ticket when I go to get the lugs.

The tire kissed the lip of the fender when it divorced itself from the hub. It'll buff out for sure, though. There's a pretty big flat spot on the brake rotor from when I tried to stop. And, there is a small gouge on the backside of the wheel, but it's not visible when mounted. Other than that, it seemed to be OK in the final 2 miles to work.

ShelGame
11-30-2009, 10:21 AM
OK, the A523 leak. I couldn't find any info on this here, but I did find a post about it on TD.com.

I noticed after a drive of really any length, that there was a pretty decent amount of oil leaking from the trans. At first, I thought it was the input shaft seal because it was dripping from the bellhousing area the most. But, there was oil all over the bottom of the trans and splashed on the k-frame as well. If it was coming from the input shaft seal, I wouldn't expect oil to 'climb' back up the bottom of the trans. A quick search on TD.com gave me the problem - the vent on the A523 (and 568 and 543) gets clogged very easily. The vent is actually through the crossover shaft (which is hollow). The problem is, they put a small sintered stone or metal filter in the crossover shaft and it gets clogged with crud very easily. When it gets clogged, the air in the trans has no where to go as it expands due to heating. That forces the oil out of the seals (mostly the shift linkage shafts, it appears). Chrysler's fix was to remove the selector shaft pin and replace it with a special kit that consisted of a new vent and filter. Obviously, it would also be possible to drill out the selector shaft and replace the original filter - but you have to remove the selector mechanism to do that.

The purpose of the lock pin is to hold the selector shaft in place for adjusting the cables. But, the cables can easily be adjusted without the lock pin. When not in use, the lock pin is reversed. So, if you see an odd pin sticking up near the reverse lamp switch, that's it. It serves no other purpose.

I simply removed the lock pin, and screwed a plastic hose barb into the 6mm hole. I attached a hose to it and ran it into a "T" in the PCV line at the (stock T2) air filter. So, now the trans gets a slight vacuum pulled on it while running.

This morning (while getting the wheel back on) I noticed that the trans definitely was NOT leaking - so, problem solved.

I think the trans vent thing should be a KC article. I'll try to put it together...

blk86trbo
11-30-2009, 10:22 AM
Wow...and to think that you might actually pull this off and get things back to where they were before the "accident? You are definitely one lucky mofo, that's for sure LOL

ShelGame
11-30-2009, 10:24 AM
I think eventually I'll need a new brake rotor, but it felt OK for those 2 miles. Once I get the right lugs on there, I'll give the brakes a good workout and see how they feel.

Oh, and at 7am, it's still pretty dark here. It made same real nice sparks when it hit the pavement.

For future reference, the rotor hits the ground first.

Thinking back now, it could easily have been a major disaster. I was on the freeway when I first heard the noise. I thought it was actually a bearing at first because it wasn't very loud and it didn't shake the wheel the way you might think. Anyway, I got off the freeway and decided to take the side roads into work. The wheel fell off about a half mile later. There was really no one around me, and I was in the left lane, so the tire just went into the median. On the freeway, I had been in the right lane. If the wheel had left on the freeway, it easily would've hit another car, possibly causing an accident. And, I likely would have lost the wheel and tire completely.

ShelGame
11-30-2009, 02:31 PM
OK, got the new lug nuts installed. Here's hoping it all stays together on the trip home...

Aries_Turbo
11-30-2009, 02:37 PM
that same thing happened to a friend of mine with one of my old cars. I had steelies on it. he put alloys on it with the same lugs. bad move. :)

Brian

turbokid
11-30-2009, 03:47 PM
Wow thats crazy.
Thats why after 50 miles you ALWAYS check torque on the wheels.
Then it is recommended at 500 miles to retorque aluminum wheels.
I hated doing that the most at tires plus.
They write up a ticket, you have to bring the car in, do a *courtesy check* even though you had already done it a week or so ago and then you have to proceed to retorque.
Q

roachjuice
11-30-2009, 08:50 PM
wheels look bad a55 on the van.

Vigo
12-01-2009, 12:56 AM
Glad to hear all is well. I have never had the issue of steelie/aluminum lug mixups coming loose, but when you get the right torque on em they will definitely tear each other up.. i.e. tightening a steelie lug nut into an aluminum wheel will tear up the wheel, tightening alloy nutonto a steelie tears up the nut. Mismatched metal hardness and all that jazz, and i think they have a different taper.

ShelGame
12-01-2009, 02:21 PM
Had to re-torque them again on the way home. But, no problems this morning. The big lugnuts seem to be holding...

Sgt Craig
12-01-2009, 09:47 PM
OK, the A523 leak. I couldn't find any info on this here, but I did find a post about it on TD.com.

I noticed after a drive of really any length, that there was a pretty decent amount of oil leaking from the trans. At first, I thought it was the input shaft seal because it was dripping from the bellhousing area the most. But, there was oil all over the bottom of the trans and splashed on the k-frame as well. If it was coming from the input shaft seal, I wouldn't expect oil to 'climb' back up the bottom of the trans. A quick search on TD.com gave me the problem - the vent on the A523 (and 568 and 543) gets clogged very easily. The vent is actually through the crossover shaft (which is hollow). The problem is, they put a small sintered stone or metal filter in the crossover shaft and it gets clogged with crud very easily. When it gets clogged, the air in the trans has no where to go as it expands due to heating. That forces the oil out of the seals (mostly the shift linkage shafts, it appears). Chrysler's fix was to remove the selector shaft pin and replace it with a special kit that consisted of a new vent and filter. Obviously, it would also be possible to drill out the selector shaft and replace the original filter - but you have to remove the selector mechanism to do that.

The purpose of the lock pin is to hold the selector shaft in place for adjusting the cables. But, the cables can easily be adjusted without the lock pin. When not in use, the lock pin is reversed. So, if you see an odd pin sticking up near the reverse lamp switch, that's it. It serves no other purpose.

I simply removed the lock pin, and screwed a plastic hose barb into the 6mm hole. I attached a hose to it and ran it into a "T" in the PCV line at the (stock T2) air filter. So, now the trans gets a slight vacuum pulled on it while running.

This morning (while getting the wheel back on) I noticed that the trans definitely was NOT leaking - so, problem solved.

I think the trans vent thing should be a KC article. I'll try to put it together...


Thanks for that info my 568 was leaking in the same place.I just recieved the Input shaft seal today.Ill do that trick first.

ShelGame
12-02-2009, 12:28 AM
Thanks for that info my 568 was leaking in the same place.I just recieved the Input shaft seal today.Ill do that trick first.

It solved my leak 100%. It really needs to be a KC article...

Sgt Craig
12-02-2009, 10:48 PM
It solved my leak 100%. It really needs to be a KC article...

Would you mind snapping some pics of how you ran it?Thanks!

ShelGame
12-03-2009, 08:33 AM
Sure. I need to nut & bolt the van this weekend anyway since I've been driving it to work all week. Make sure nothing else is going to go flying down the road without me...

Reaper1
12-03-2009, 02:45 PM
Hey Rob, what solved the whacky ASD thing? You said you suspected a bad cal, but was that the cause?

The reason I ask is that this issue is starting to pop up more and more. I had it happen to my van(running a stock SMEC) and could never figure it out (YEARS later I found the issue was probably a borken ground on the injector harness), but it seems more and more people are having this same issue.

Nice build BTW! :thumb:

ShelGame
12-03-2009, 03:21 PM
On mine anyway, it's my new flash modules for the SMEC - they don't work with the memory chip I'm currently using due to a conflict with the EEPROM. I'm going to build a 'special' test version of T-SMEC and see if I can make it work. I already found a replacement memory chip to use if this test works.

Reaper1
12-04-2009, 05:26 PM
Oh..ok. So this probably isn't something that is effecting other people's stuff. I'm jsut trying to figure out common causes of this since it seems to be something that is happening more often.

ShelGame
12-06-2009, 05:38 PM
Update for the day - I got the A/C condenser installed and hooked up. Just need to install the belt and the R123 conversion kit and the A/C should be good to go. That can probably wait until spring. I'm not sure if I could tell it was working or not at 35deg ouside temperature.

I also installed the LH transmission splash shield. I couldn't find the RH one. I swar it came with the van, though. Oh well, I'll need to add that to my list of parts to get. I doubt the belts will be happy about snow getting packed up in there.

I got the RH headlight adjuster fixed and the headlights aligned. And, finally, I installed the old cracked Voyager grill. I really want to find something better. But, I may just wait until spring and try to do a 2nd gen front end conversion when I can afford to paint it.

ShelGame
12-07-2009, 10:11 AM
Hmm, well it appears as thought the trans leak is fixed. However - the big leak looks like it must be from the engine. I had to put a quart and a half in it this morning. I'm pretty sure it's the rear main galley plug leaking. I had a hard time getting it in with the engine on the stand and I guess I boogered it up. The van needs wheel bearings anyway, I guess I'll pull the trans when get the knuckles off for the bearings. A quart of oil a week is not a good thing...

Vigo
12-07-2009, 12:38 PM
Not to mention the chances that the oil will contaminate your clutch. Sorry to hear of the annoyance, but everything's easier on a van.. you'll have it done in no time.

turbokid
12-07-2009, 07:39 PM
I hate doin stuff twice lmao.
But you gotta do what you gotta do.

ShelGame
12-07-2009, 10:23 PM
Not to mention the chances that the oil will contaminate your clutch. Sorry to hear of the annoyance, but everything's easier on a van.. you'll have it done in no time.

I think the clutch is mostly protected since the plug is behind the cover plate. But still, it's getting oil everywhere.

Sgt Craig
12-11-2009, 09:08 PM
Hmm, well it appears as thought the trans leak is fixed. However - the big leak looks like it must be from the engine. I had to put a quart and a half in it this morning. I'm pretty sure it's the rear main galley plug leaking. I had a hard time getting it in with the engine on the stand and I guess I boogered it up. The van needs wheel bearings anyway, I guess I'll pull the trans when get the knuckles off for the bearings. A quart of oil a week is not a good thing...


Ill check that too when I pull the trans.I did find on mine I had the trans a little overfull.Drained some of it out.Im going through about a 1/2 quart every tweo weeks.I need to check out the PCV system tomorrow and see whats up.

ShelGame
12-13-2009, 10:11 AM
Well, after 2 weks of daily driving, I have to say 5-speed turbo minivans are way fun. I love the looks I get when I start the van. Of course, the onlookers probably think it's just an old van with a rotten exhaust. But, still. I loved being able to hang on the bumper of the '10 Mustang GT as we got on the freeway yesterday...

blk86trbo
12-13-2009, 02:00 PM
I loved being able to hang on the bumper of the '10 Mustang GT as we got on the freeway yesterday...

Classic man, that's awesome...too bad you didn't have a video camera mounted for that :nod:

turbokid
12-13-2009, 02:27 PM
Classic man, that's awesome...too bad you didn't have a video camera mounted for that :nod:

^I like his idea.
Maybe the vendors should accommodate a video camera mount in there catalog. A must have for any td faster then stock

ShelGame
12-13-2009, 03:01 PM
He wasn't trying real hard to lose me, and I didn't have to work that hard to keep up, but I still saw him glancing in the mirror...

Vigo
12-14-2009, 01:49 PM
A must have for any td faster then stock

My aries is faster than most stock tds on lower than stock boost, and its pretty much all stock parts... so i DEFINITELY need a camera mount! :p


Well, after 2 weks of daily driving, I have to say 5-speed turbo minivans are way fun.

Aarrrgh this is killing me. All ive been waiting on for months is a fuel pump from a guy in another state. Im REALLY trying to resist the temptation to drop a few hours and $100 and get mine going NOW.:eyebrows:

ShelGame
12-18-2009, 09:57 AM
Over my holiday break (we get 10days off from work for good behavior :) ) I'm planning to rebuild the suspension. I got a set of leaf spring bushings coming from Johnny, I already have the Energy suspension front control arm and sway bar bushings; new Daytona struts, strut mounts, and wheel bearings.

Here's the question: When driving the van I have noticed it has a big tendency to body roll in a RH turn. It actually feels like it's rolling over to the bump stop on the LF. But, when I turn left, it's actually pretty stable and firm.

I know both front stuts are pretty much shot. When I was working on the van, the RF strut would often stick at the max droop position (when the engine was out). And I had to jump on the van to get it to go back down. Do you think the massive body roll could be just due to bad struts? Or is something else going on? This is my primary transportation as of today (lease car gets returned literally in just a few minutes). And I can't have it down for more than a couple of days. It has to get fixed on my break. So, if I need parts, I need to get them NOW. Thanks for any advice...

Captain Chaos
12-18-2009, 10:19 AM
I can't say for sure, but it definately sounds like it could be the source of the problem.

blk86trbo
12-18-2009, 10:57 AM
I can't say for sure, but it definately sounds like it could be the source of the problem.

Right, you already know there's an issue...fix what you know is broke first.

Turbodave
12-18-2009, 11:45 AM
New struts made a huge difference on my 90 Voyager, when I got it I thought it would flip over driving around my neighborhood, swapped to new KYB GR2's and put on 16" wheels with 215/55/16 tires and it was night and day in handling. Won the Fun Rally at SDAC 15 in the van and anyone that rode with me or Adam who kept falling behind in the Stratus R/T can attest to the van's ability to get around a corner.

As far as the 523 Vent, not sure if that was my thread on TD.com from back in the day, but I had that problem on my 93 Shadow when it was almost brand new. The TSB solved the slight leak I had.

ShelGame
12-18-2009, 02:04 PM
New struts made a huge difference on my 90 Voyager, when I got it I thought it would flip over driving around my neighborhood, swapped to new KYB GR2's and put on 16" wheels with 215/55/16 tires and it was night and day in handling. Won the Fun Rally at SDAC 15 in the van and anyone that rode with me or Adam who kept falling behind in the Stratus R/T can attest to the van's ability to get around a corner.

As far as the 523 Vent, not sure if that was my thread on TD.com from back in the day, but I had that problem on my 93 Shadow when it was almost brand new. The TSB solved the slight leak I had.

Exactly - it feels like it's going to flip over on a RH turn. The front doesn't sag visibly at ride height, so I didn't think it was a bad spring (I'm planning to reuse the springs, cut 1 coil to lower it).

It might've been your thread. I forget now. There were several I had to go thru to get the TSB info and pictures. It definitely should be a KC article...

Vigo
12-18-2009, 09:19 PM
Definitely seems like a strut issue. I guess there's some chance the spring has gone soft. Try putting your weight on the bumper on right and left sides and see if there is a difference in how much it sags under weight. Just a thought.

ShelGame
12-21-2009, 11:06 PM
OK, I found a local place to de-arch the rear springs for me. Going to strip the suspension off next week and get it done. I guess that means the Daytona goes out in the cold for a few nights. Oh well, it will live...

I'll post progress pics. I'm shooting for a 2" drop up front, 1-1/2" or so in the rear. Air bags maybe in the future, but probably a long way off.

ShelGame
12-23-2009, 03:36 PM
Anyone ever find/use a fiberglass roof for these vans? I wouldn't mind one like this : Mini-Ram conversion (http://books.google.com/books?id=FOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA88&lpg=PA88&dq=mini-ram+fiberglass+roof&source=bl&ots=Vb10LY20RU&sig=lmMuKvvvdyZ46rUFJoh4k97BpxY&hl=en&ei=2XAyS5KKOIO-lAfQ9NyaBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CAoQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=mini-ram%20fiberglass%20roof&f=false)

ShelGame
12-24-2009, 12:05 PM
Well, the van's up in the air in the garage now. Going to rebuild the suspension and de-arch the rear springs. Going for a 2" drop. I'll post the 'before' pics of the ride height soon...

MILKCARTON
12-24-2009, 12:22 PM
I have seen a few of those with the tops in yards before, I will pay alot more attention to now, cool ad, thanx for posting that!

ShelGame
12-29-2009, 09:40 AM
I got the front end all apart yesterday. Pretty easy, really. I was surprised that the tie rods didn't give me more trouble. But, one question, why are the sway bar bolts so freaking long? What a PITA. I broke one of them into the k-frame on the drivers side because it was so rusty. I'll have to figure out how to extract that.

The wheel bearing on the drivers side is definitly shot. With the knuckle off, I can feel the play in it. It looks original. The pass side looks like a replacement bearing. It's OK, but I'm replacing both of them anyway.

I also measured the 'before' ride heights. The fronts are at 29-1/4" and the rear at 29-3/4". I'm going for ~27" / 27-1/2" F/R.

I also measured the length of the front struts just for my own education. Simon had told me they were the same length and that concerned me a little. It that were true, then putting Daytona struts on (with the stock minivan springs) would only lower the van thru added pre-load. What I found was, the Daytona struts are actually a little bit shorter to the spring perch (~1/2"). That makes me feel better.

ShelGame
12-29-2009, 04:32 PM
OMFG - I've been working on getting the rear leaf springs out for an hour now and I'm only halfway done with one side. What the hell did they make the u-bolts/nuts out of? I'm using my 2' breaker bar (can't turn them with a 1' ratchet) and it's taking forever...

bakes
12-29-2009, 04:54 PM
OMFG - I've been working on getting the rear leaf springs out for an hour now and I'm only halfway done with one side. What the hell did they make the u-bolts/nuts out of? I'm using my 2' breaker bar (can't turn them with a 1' ratchet) and it's taking forever...

big 1/2" impactgun is the best way

ShelGame
12-29-2009, 06:49 PM
My compressor couldn't keep up with my 1/2" gun. Plus, I bet I was putting over 100ft-lb into each turn. I don't know if my gun would do much with them. I got the passenger side u-bolts off (finally). One of them broke :( .

Now, on to the other side.

What keeps the spring attached to the axle? It doesn't seem to want to come off. Is the spring locating pin/bolt somehow attached to the axle?

bakes
12-29-2009, 07:05 PM
My compressor couldn't keep up with my 1/2" gun. Plus, I bet I was putting over 100ft-lb into each turn. I don't know if my gun would do much with them. I got the passenger side u-bolts off (finally). One of them broke :( .

Now, on to the other side.

What keeps the spring attached to the axle? It doesn't seem to want to come off. Is the spring locating pin/bolt somehow attached to the axle?

locator pin , big hammer should work

turbovanmanČ
12-29-2009, 07:49 PM
Nice work Rob, I thought I was subscribed, :o

Rad and IC install look awesome and those wheels are great, :thumb:


Ok, unbolt the spring at the front by unbolting it from the van, using the 15 mm headed bolts. The rear bushings are a royal pita. Use a torch or breaker bar and a huge pipe for leverage-the rubber bushings fuse to the shackle and bolt. I had to use force, heat and a die grinder to clean it all up.

Get new shackle u-bolts, the shop that's doing the dearching can make you some. After the bolts are removed, hit the spring down to break it free. The u- bolts are a pain due to there location-salt etc corrode them badly-again heat and/or lots of force and penetrating fluid and time/patience.

Car springs are shorter than van springs which affects the ride height etc.

Interesting on the car/van comparison, I compared stock to KYB and they were the same, :confused:

ShelGame
12-29-2009, 10:55 PM
Nice work Rob, I thought I was subscribed, :o

Rad and IC install look awesome and those wheels are great, :thumb:

Thanks. It's doing really well except for the massive oil leak (source unknown as of yet). And the bad wheel bearing and struts. Those will be sorted out soon, but now I'm regretting going for the rear spring de-arch at the same time. It's too much work for the time I have available. :(


Ok, unbolt the spring at the front by unbolting it from the van, using the 15 mm headed bolts. The rear bushings are a royal pita. Use a torch or breaker bar and a huge pipe for leverage-the rubber bushings fuse to the shackle and bolt. I had to use force, heat and a die grinder to clean it all up.

Get new shackle u-bolts, the shop that's doing the dearching can make you some. After the bolts are removed, hit the spring down to break it free. The u- bolts are a pain due to there location-salt etc corrode them badly-again heat and/or lots of force and penetrating fluid and time/patience.


I just unbolted the rear shackle mount and all. I'll deal with the bushing once I get it out. I didn't realize I would waste so much time just trying to get the u-bolts off the springs. I mean, it's like a whole afternoons work just to get those off. :(

I tried hitting the axle to get it to come down - it won't. Funny thing is, the spring is all unbolted from the body, and it won't fall down either. Must be hanging by the opposite side (which is still all bolted up).

turbovanmanČ
12-30-2009, 12:28 AM
Thanks. It's doing really well except for the massive oil leak (source unknown as of yet). And the bad wheel bearing and struts. Those will be sorted out soon, but now I'm regretting going for the rear spring de-arch at the same time. It's too much work for the time I have available. :(



I just unbolted the rear shackle mount and all. I'll deal with the bushing once I get it out. I didn't realize I would waste so much time just trying to get the u-bolts off the springs. I mean, it's like a whole afternoons work just to get those off. :(

I tried hitting the axle to get it to come down - it won't. Funny thing is, the spring is all unbolted from the body, and it won't fall down either. Must be hanging by the opposite side (which is still all bolted up).

Well apart from the u-bolts, it really is a simple job.

Either way, you'll be very happy when your done, :thumb:

ShelGame
12-30-2009, 11:09 AM
:censored:Oh F-this. I'll do these springs in the spring. I can't get them off the axle, and I don't have anymore time to F-with it.:censored:

blk86trbo
12-30-2009, 11:13 AM
Sorry to hear you're having a hard time...been there done that, I know exactly how stupid stuff like this pisses a person off!

Turbodave
12-30-2009, 11:43 AM
Rob, never messed with the U-bolts on any of my vans, but when I did an axle in my trailer a few years ago it was much easier to just cut them off and replace with new ones. 5min with a torch or sawzall -vs- hours of frustration, worth the cost of new bolts.

Captain Chaos
12-30-2009, 03:49 PM
Rob, never messed with the U-bolts on any of my vans, but when I did an axle in my trailer a few years ago it was much easier to just cut them off and replace with new ones. 5min with a torch or sawzall -vs- hours of frustration, worth the cost of new bolts.

I was thinking the exact same thing as I was reading this.:thumb:

ShelGame
12-30-2009, 04:50 PM
OK, I went to my brother-in-laws to drop off his kids (sleepover) and stole back my right angle grinder. I'm cutting the u-bolts tomorrow. I hate being beaten by a car...

Turbodave
12-30-2009, 06:16 PM
OK, I went to my brother-in-laws to drop off his kids (sleepover) and stole back my right angle grinder. I'm cutting the u-bolts tomorrow. I hate being beaten by a car...

:thumb: That's the spirit.

turbovanmanČ
12-31-2009, 04:38 AM
OK, I went to my brother-in-laws to drop off his kids (sleepover) and stole back my right angle grinder. I'm cutting the u-bolts tomorrow. I hate being beaten by a car...

No wonder you can't win, your supposed to be working on a van!! :bolt::fencing::drum:

ShelGame
12-31-2009, 04:04 PM
OK, so I got the damn things off. Yeah for angle grinders.

And, I think I found out why the van feels like it's going to fall over in RH turns - the drivers side leaf spring is broken at the front eyelet. That can't be good. Anyone care to sell me a 5-leaf minivan spring? Or a set? Or even just the main leaf? I need one fast.

Funny thing is - the bottom of this van is pretty much rust-free except for the leaf springs. They are very rusty. Is that normal? I would've thought they be painted or coated somewhow.

Also, I cut a coil off the front springs while I was at it with the angle grinder. Just need the dust boots for the struts (should be here on Saturday) and I can re-assemble the front end.

Captain Chaos
12-31-2009, 04:06 PM
OK, so I get the damn things off. And, I found out why the van feels like it's going to fall over in RH turns - the drivers side leaf spring is broken at the front eyelet. That can't be good. Anyone care to sell me a 5-leaf minivan spring? Or a set?

WOW, couldn't help but chuckle at that one. Now you gotta go to the JY and pull another spring.

ShelGame
12-31-2009, 04:09 PM
WOW, couldn't help but chuckle at that one. Now you gotta go to the JY and pull another spring.

Like hell. I'll buy new if I have to. I'm not laying in the frozen mud for one. No way...

Captain Chaos
12-31-2009, 04:13 PM
Like hell. I'll buy new if I have to. I'm not laying in the frozen mud for one. No way...

HAHA!!:thumb: I'm sure the company that is rearching them could make you a new one or two for that matter.

ShelGame
12-31-2009, 04:25 PM
Yeah, I wonder what they'd charge for that. Hopefully they'll be open on Saturday and I can take the springs over for an estimate...

turbovanmanČ
01-01-2010, 05:15 AM
OK, so I got the damn things off. Yeah for angle grinders.

And, I think I found out why the van feels like it's going to fall over in RH turns - the drivers side leaf spring is broken at the front eyelet. That can't be good. Anyone care to sell me a 5-leaf minivan spring? Or a set? Or even just the main leaf? I need one fast.

Funny thing is - the bottom of this van is pretty much rust-free except for the leaf springs. They are very rusty. Is that normal? I would've thought they be painted or coated somewhow.

Also, I cut a coil off the front springs while I was at it with the angle grinder. Just need the dust boots for the struts (should be here on Saturday) and I can re-assemble the front end.

Bummer but they do rust. Never seen one break, maybe the previous owner hit something?

If you can't find any, I can get you a quote on Monday and get them dearched if you want.

Sgt Craig
01-01-2010, 05:43 PM
Bummer but they do rust. Never seen one break, maybe the previous owner hit something?

If you can't find any, I can get you a quote on Monday and get them dearched if you want.

I checked my driver side today after reading his post yesterday.Mine isnt far from breaking either.

ShelGame
01-01-2010, 10:54 PM
It looks like it broke right near where the bracket for the load-sensing brake prop valve is welded on. I'm sure the weld and/or stess concentration from that bracket was a factor. Also, I think this van was hit once in it's life. The drivers door is not original (silver paint beneath the peeling red) and the whole drivers side of the van has been painted. But, there's no damage/repair in the door frame area or in the underside of the body on that side. So, it must've been just door damage.

ShelGame
01-04-2010, 04:44 PM
OK, the first salvage yard didn't pan out. But, the 2nd one is looking better. They wanted half the price, and they're already pulled. Also, called the spring shop - $80 to get them de-arched. They'll be going tomorrow...

turbovanmanČ
01-04-2010, 05:53 PM
OK, the first salvage yard didn't pan out. But, the 2nd one is looking better. They wanted half the price, and they're already pulled. Also, called the spring shop - $80 to get them de-arched. They'll be going tomorrow...

Nice and good deal on the de-arching, :nod:

ShelGame
01-06-2010, 03:30 PM
Last night I replaced the alternator bushings with Polybushings (thanks Johnny :thumb: ). The belt was squealing pretty badly, so this will help make the van a little quieter place to live on the morning commute.

Also, while the axles were out, I searched for the source of my engine oil leak. I've been losing about 1/2 quart a week, and the bottom of the van is coated nicely. Won't have to worry about rust this winter. Anyway, it looked like it was mostly covering the trans and left side of the underbody. I took off the lower trans cover plate to see if there was oil in there (indicating a rear main or rear galley plug leak) and it was dry. Yeah! - no splitting of the engine trans.

So, then I crawled under way under the engine to see the backside. The highest oil was on the bottom of the starter. And the block and oil pan are coated pretty well. Looks like some oil was splashed around by the axle, too. The oil must have been coming out of the turbo drain. I put a used hose in there that was pretty beat up. In addition, the hose clamp at the block was a little too high up on the tube. I'm not sure it was really clamping the hose so well. I lowered the clamp and tightened the snot out of it. Hopefully that stops the leak. if not, I guess I'll need to find a new hose. What do guys usually use to replace that hose? On my Daytona, I tapped the block and used -16 AN fittings with stainless braided oil hose. It's too late to go to that extent for the van, though. I doubt heater hose will hold up, either. I'm open to suggestions.

Finally, I dropped off the springs to get de-arched this morning. Should have some 'after' pics to post up by the end of the weekend...

turbovanmanČ
01-06-2010, 03:55 PM
So, then I crawled under way under the engine to see the backside. The highest oil was on the bottom of the starter. And the block and oil pan are coated pretty well. Looks like some oil was splashed around by the axle, too. The oil must have been coming out of the turbo drain. I put a used hose in there that was pretty beat up. In addition, the hose clamp at the block was a little too high up on the tube. I'm not sure it was really clamping the hose so well. I lowered the clamp and tightened the snot out of it. Hopefully that stops the leak. if not, I guess I'll need to find a new hose. What do guys usually use to replace that hose? On my Daytona, I tapped the block and used -16 AN fittings with stainless braided oil hose. It's too late to go to that extent for the van, though. I doubt heater hose will hold up, either. I'm open to suggestions.

Finally, I dropped off the springs to get de-arched this morning. Should have some 'after' pics to post up by the end of the weekend...

I just use silicone heater hose, easily installed with the turbo still on, use lots of silicone spray, :thumb:

Sweet on the springs, your going to love it, :amen:

turbokid
01-06-2010, 04:21 PM
Good to see progress on the van!
Q

Turbodave
01-06-2010, 06:09 PM
On the turbo drain I actually agree with Simon, I've used silicone heater hose many times without issues. I think I had about a foot of blue hose with a red liner and it was enough for 5 or 6 cars.

ShelGame
01-06-2010, 06:32 PM
Where do you get it?

turbovanmanČ
01-06-2010, 06:54 PM
Where do you get it?

Me, vendors, auto stores.



On the turbo drain I actually agree with Simon, I've used silicone heater hose many times without issues. I think I had about a foot of blue hose with a red liner and it was enough for 5 or 6 cars.

I don't like that tone! :o :clap:

Aries_Turbo
01-06-2010, 08:00 PM
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cgi-bin/ryderfp/browse/srm/oid/-9034/cn/Coolant-Hose-Bulk/erm/browsecategories.jsp

oops, that has a minimum order of 50 ft for the 5/8" we need.

ill keep looking.

brian

Turbodave
01-06-2010, 08:01 PM
I don't like that tone! :o :clap:

Don't make me ban you :D

I got the silicone hose from my Dad's shop, it was a scrap piece from what they use on school bus. Should be able to get from a decent parts store (probably not an autozone-pep-boy-type of place).

Aries_Turbo
01-06-2010, 08:06 PM
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=154

turbovanmanČ
01-06-2010, 08:15 PM
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=154

Where's the 5/8"? Metric isn't my strong suit, :eyebrows:

Any turbo specs for me yet, this VGT is getting heavy, :nod:

Vigo
01-06-2010, 08:29 PM
well i didnt check the link but common simon.. what other socket fits a 5/8? a 16mm... :)

turbovanmanČ
01-06-2010, 09:25 PM
well i didnt check the link but common simon.. what other socket fits a 5/8? a 16mm... :)

I know, just messing around, :D

Aries_Turbo
01-06-2010, 10:59 PM
Any turbo specs for me yet, this VGT is getting heavy, :nod:

sorry, ill get off my ---. :) ive been a little busy with traveling for the holidays. ill try to measure the wheels tomorrow.

brian

ShelGame
01-09-2010, 08:56 PM
Got the springs this morning. Spent all afternoon trying to remove the shackle hardware and old front mounts. Whew - minivan springs are a PITA. It's ready to go back together now. Well, except for that broken swaybar bolt, and the brake line I somehow managed to break when taking off the springs. Sigh. Going to be a busy day tomorrow, this thing has to be back on the road Monday (I lose my loaner car from work).

Captain Chaos
01-09-2010, 09:06 PM
No pressure. These cars literally fall together, lol.

turbovanmanČ
01-09-2010, 09:48 PM
Got the springs this morning. Spent all afternoon trying to remove the shackle hardware and old front mounts. Whew - minivan springs are a PITA. It's ready to go back together now. Well, except for that broken swaybar bolt, and the brake line I somehow managed to break when taking off the springs. Sigh. Going to be a busy day tomorrow, this thing has to be back on the road Monday (I lose my loaner car from work).

Your changing the front spring mount? Does Johnny have new ones?

ShelGame
01-10-2010, 12:12 AM
Your changing the front spring mount? Does Johnny have new ones?

No, but the brackets that came on the JY springs don't have the hole for the parking brake cable. So, I have to swap them anyway - might as well put the better mounts that came off the origianl springs (the JY mounts were pretty trashed). Can you even get new mounts? I kind of doubt it...

Oh, and one of my JY springs also has a broken front eyelet. The guy at the spring shop it was pretty common on the old Chrysler minivans. This one isn't as bad, though. It still holds the mount securely.

I guess I'll keep the old springs - just in case I need parts. Everything but the one main leaf is OK.

turbovanmanČ
01-10-2010, 02:41 AM
Gotcha.

Another broken eyelet, wow, I still haven't see that yet, :confused:

ShelGame
01-10-2010, 09:04 AM
It might a rust-related issue. We have lots of that around here, usually...

ShelGame
01-10-2010, 08:32 PM
OK, I got the rear end all re-assembled and replaced the brake line. I put the rear wheels on and dropped it back down to make sure the ride height wouldn't be too low. The way the springs looked compared to stock - I was a little concerned that the spring shop dropped it too much. By checking it before I put the front back together, I at least could save a little time and frustration if I need to cut the front springs more. But, the rear looks to be just about exactly what I asked for. It's at about 1" lower than stock right now, but the front is still up in the air on jackstands. I think when it's all down, the rear will be 1-1/2" lower - which was what I asked them to do.

Then I went on to do the front. However, I couldn't compress the minivan springs enough (even cut 1 coil) with my screw spring compressors. I got about 1/2" away and it wouldn't go any more. So, I'll take the whole lot to work with me tomorrow and use the pneumatic spring compressor. Should have it all back on the ground tomorrow.

turbokid
01-10-2010, 10:06 PM
Thats good. Glad everything is working out for you.

ShelGame
01-11-2010, 01:46 PM
Ahhh, professional tools in a heated garage space. This is how all projects should be.

I got the springs installed on the new struts at lunch at work today. And lunch only stared at noon. I'm eating my sandwich now. It was really easy to install those springs with the monster spring compressor we have here. Now, I just have to get them in the van tonight....

Captain Chaos
01-11-2010, 02:11 PM
Ahhh, professional tools in a heated garage space. This is how all projects should be.

I got the springs installed on the new struts at lunch at work today. And lunch only stared at noon. I'm eating my sandwich now. It was really easy to install those springs with the monster spring compressor we have here. Now, I just have to get them in the van tonight....

Thats why the Aries was assembled at work.:thumb: Congrats.

turbovanmanČ
01-11-2010, 02:47 PM
Ahhh, professional tools in a heated garage space. This is how all projects should be.

I got the springs installed on the new struts at lunch at work today. And lunch only stared at noon. I'm eating my sandwich now. It was really easy to install those springs with the monster spring compressor we have here. Now, I just have to get them in the van tonight....

I think I've mentioned that before, due to the Minivan springs higher initial height, you can't use a regular spring compressor, you need a pro wall mount type unit, :o

Can't wait to see the pics, :thumb:

ShelGame
01-11-2010, 03:34 PM
I think I've mentioned that before, due to the Minivan springs higher initial height, you can't use a regular spring compressor, you need a pro wall mount type unit, :o

Can't wait to see the pics, :thumb:

Yeah, you did mention it. I just didn't believe you.

Lesson here is: When it comes to minivans, listen to Simon :hail:

turbovanmanČ
01-11-2010, 10:42 PM
Yeah, you did mention it. I just didn't believe you.

Lesson here is: When it comes to minivans, listen to Simon :hail:

Ouch, you didn't believe me, sniff, sniff, :(

Finally, your coming around, hehehe, :thumb:

ShelGame
01-11-2010, 11:36 PM
It's not that I didn't believe you so much, I just had to try anyway. I have the little screw compressors and couldn't try it at work until today anyway...

ShelGame
01-13-2010, 10:00 AM
OK, so last night I got the struts installed along with re-assembling the knuckles (with new wheel bearings installed) and brakes. Just need to clean up the sway bar (and extract that stubborn broken bolt), align it, and it should be all done. Can't wait to get the front on the ground to see it lowered...

bakes
01-13-2010, 02:09 PM
We need pics Rob!!!!!

ShelGame
01-13-2010, 02:41 PM
We need pics Rob!!!!!

Once it's on the ground, I'll post some pics. I need to get a new pic of the Daytona, too. I lowered it last year with a set of cut Eibachs. It looks just plain mean now, down low on the satin Centerlines. I've been wanting to get a pic of it for my sig...

bakes
01-13-2010, 03:26 PM
sounds sweet

Reeves
01-14-2010, 12:03 PM
Need pics!

Reaper1
01-15-2010, 04:08 PM
Pics!! Please!!

bakes
01-16-2010, 12:20 AM
Bump on the pics Rob!!!!

ShelGame
01-16-2010, 08:47 AM
Nothing to takes pics of yet. It's still up in the air...

turbokid
01-16-2010, 03:16 PM
Well get crack-a-lackin then lol

ShelGame
01-16-2010, 07:40 PM
OK, got it all back together today. And, I'm less than thrilled. The rear lowered about 2" (which is a 1/2" more than I asked for - though I have to say it looks good @ 2"). It will likely settle to about 2-1/2" lower than stock. But, the front only lowered about 1". This is the daytona struts and minivan springs cut 1 coil. Eventually I'll cut it more to get it down 2". But, it's good for now. I'm sure it will settle some too (I used new upper and lower spring isolators). The rear is also only about 1" away from hitting the bump stop. I guess I'll have to get some air shocks for it when payday comes around and lift it back up a bit. I took it around the block just to get a feel, and the ride is much improved. The front struts were seriously shot. The front end doesn't move much at all now when I jump on it (and I'm pretty hefty). Camber is good, I still need to check the toe though. I'll post pics tomorrow when it's out of the garage for good. Didn't have time this afternoon...

turbovanmanČ
01-16-2010, 08:45 PM
Bummer but yeah, it will settle. As for the rear, I put the adjustable shocks on right away so never noticed any bottoming out. The springs are sagged and I still don't bottom out.

Vigo
01-16-2010, 08:48 PM
Sounds pretty good. Unfortunately, you just cant get around it: If you are particular about stance/ride height, you will probably have to make more than one attempt to get it 'just right'.

You're most of the way there now, though! Cant wait for the pics.

ShelGame
01-16-2010, 08:49 PM
Actually, I think I like the rear now. I'll probably eventually cut the front some more to lower it again. But, not this weekend...

Reeves
01-18-2010, 12:57 PM
......must......get........pics....

Vigo
01-18-2010, 01:33 PM
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/Vigo327/0003-22231390006_large.jpg

ShelGame
01-18-2010, 02:08 PM
Well, since Darth is threatening - here you go. Pics of the van (and the whole fleet...).

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/886/medium/Minivan_080.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/886/medium/Minivan_086.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/886/medium/Minivan_083.JPG

I drove it for about 10 miles so far - to McD for some lunch and to the carwash to hose off some of the 2 year old grime (especially under the gas cap - ewww!). It drives very nice compared to before (and even compared to the Spirit R/T - I think the spirit needs new struts now). It's firm, but not harsh. Well, not harsh from the ride. The interior rattles like hell.

Things to do now:

1) Fix the speedo. I checked the cable at the trans, and it seemed OK. Not broken. What else could be wrong? Do the mechanical speedos just fail from time to time?

2) Air shocks. The rear is a little too low for me. With anyone riding back there, I think it will hit the bump stops. Ouch.

3) Composite headlamps. I want to put the compasites back on (after polishing out the yellow as much as possible). I have a HID kit that came with the Spirit R/T when I bought it. Relays, bulbs, etc. So, I'll wire that into the van. Then use the smoked covers that I snagged.

4) Interior rattle. The interior panels all rattle like crazy over bump. I hate it.

5) Remove the license plate eyebrow. I saw the pic of Reeves PLH from the rear. It looks like he simply removed the eyebrow. And, I actually think it gives it a very clean look. So, I'll do that too. As soon as I get brave enough to remove the hatch interior panel. Looks like it's bolted fom the inside.

Also, I swapped the old-style flashable computer from my Daytona race car so that I can test T-SMEC daily. I have a 2-bar 2.5 MTX build in it right now. So far, no misfire. But, again, only 10 miles on it with this T-SMEC cal. We'll see.

turbovanmanČ
01-18-2010, 02:31 PM
Looks good, :D But yeah, the rear does look a little low, If you brought that up a bit, you wouldn't have to touch the front, :amen:

Is the speedo cable actually turning at the cluster? I would check that first.

ShelGame
01-18-2010, 02:42 PM
Looks good, :D But yeah, the rear does look a little low, If you brought that up a bit, you wouldn't have to touch the front, :amen:

I was just thinking I could easily raise the rear with a simple lift block like trucks use. Only need an inch. I can always take the block out later. I wonder if O'Reilly's has 1" lift blocks...



Is the speedo cable actually turning at the cluster? I would check that first.

I guess I could check. But, it's not broken at the trans, and the square end is in the drive gear, why wouldn't it?

Captain Chaos
01-18-2010, 03:25 PM
Well, since Darth is threatening - here you go. Pics of the van (and the whole fleet...).

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/886/medium/Minivan_080.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/886/medium/Minivan_086.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/886/medium/Minivan_083.JPG

I drove it for about 10 miles so far - to McD for some lunch and to the carwash to hose off some of the 2 year old grime (especially under the gas cap - ewww!). It drives very nice compared to before (and even compared to the Spirit R/T - I think the spirit needs new struts now). It's firm, but not harsh. Well, not harsh from the ride. The interior rattles like hell.

Things to do now:

1) Fix the speedo. I checked the cable at the trans, and it seemed OK. Not broken. What else could be wrong? Do the mechanical speedos just fail from time to time?

2) Air shocks. The rear is a little too low for me. With anyone riding back there, I think it will hit the bump stops. Ouch.

3) Composite headlamps. I want to put the compasites back on (after polishing out the yellow as much as possible). I have a HID kit that came with the Spirit R/T when I bought it. Relays, bulbs, etc. So, I'll wire that into the van. Then use the smoked covers that I snagged.

4) Interior rattle. The interior panels all rattle like crazy over bump. I hate it.

5) Remove the license plate eyebrow. I saw the pic of Reeves PLH from the rear. It looks like he simply removed the eyebrow. And, I actually think it gives it a very clean look. So, I'll do that too. As soon as I get brave enough to remove the hatch interior panel. Looks like it's bolted fom the inside.

Also, I swapped the old-style flashable computer from my Daytona race car so that I can test T-SMEC daily. I have a 2-bar 2.5 MTX build in it right now. So far, no misfire. But, again, only 10 miles on it with this T-SMEC cal. We'll see.

Looks good. Gotta love the race car sitting out by the frost on the ground. lol

turbovanmanČ
01-18-2010, 03:26 PM
I was just thinking I could easily raise the rear with a simple lift block like trucks use. Only need an inch. I can always take the block out later. I wonder if O'Reilly's has 1" lift blocks...

That would work nicely I would think, :nod:


I guess I could check. But, it's not broken at the trans, and the square end is in the drive gear, why wouldn't it?

I've had cables move at the trans end but are broken either somewhere else or at the speedo head so you get the illusion its working until you check at the speedo. Luckily the clusters are cake to remove.

Vigo
01-18-2010, 04:33 PM
I want to put the compasites back on (after polishing out the yellow as much as possible). I have a HID kit that came with the Spirit R/T when I bought it. Relays, bulbs, etc. So, I'll wire that into the van.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43834&page=2

I watched Strax22 here put HIDs into his a few weeks ago.. definitely improves visibility! But as Simon says you will probably have to block the top bit of your lenses or just aim them down a bunch.

I like the lift blocks idea for simplicity. OR, if you can cut and weld, make yourself some adjustable shackles with several sets of holes. :p

Reeves
01-18-2010, 04:49 PM
On my van it was a combination of the speed sensor gear and very loose diff bearings causing the speedo not to work.

On the hatch, we shaved the wiper hole, washer fluid hole, key hole, and license plate light holes along with the removal of the visor. If you remove the visor, you will see the license plate lights plain as day.

I'd lower the front if it was me. And add bigger brakes!

ShelGame
01-18-2010, 05:01 PM
OK, speedo was easy. Previous owner (before Jason - he never drove it) must've pulled the cable to keep it from racking up anymore miles. Either that, or they pulled it to replace bulbs and couldn't figure out how to plug it back in. It was simply unplugged at the back of the cluster. That thing is a bugger to get back in! But, it works now.

WG duty cycle is way off. I was hitting OB, then not getting any boost (I could hear that the WG was wide open). Not sure what I did there, but it needs work. Will be flashing a new cal shortly.

Still no signs of misfire...

Vigo
01-18-2010, 05:34 PM
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/Vigo327/2944374_60_full.jpg

I kinda like that front end when its blacked out.. you thinking of selling the headlight pieces?

turbovanmanČ
01-18-2010, 05:50 PM
^^^^^^^^ Looks mean, :nod:

ShelGame
01-18-2010, 06:14 PM
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/Vigo327/2944374_60_full.jpg

I kinda like that front end when its blacked out.. you thinking of selling the headlight pieces?

Yeah, they'll be for sale once I get the HID's in there. Or, at least get the composites cleaned and polished up.

When I'm ready to paint mine, I was thinking I'd color match the front end to the body.

ShelGame
01-18-2010, 11:29 PM
On the hatch, we shaved the wiper hole, washer fluid hole, key hole, and license plate light holes along with the removal of the visor. If you remove the visor, you will see the license plate lights plain as day.

I wonder if I can find some lower profile lights for the plate? I probably won't shave the wiper or washer (I gotta drive this thing to work, even in the winter). But, I would like to remove the visor since they're so hard to find.

mcsvt
01-19-2010, 09:47 AM
Looks great Rob :thumb:

Reeves
01-19-2010, 10:03 AM
I wonder if I can find some lower profile lights for the plate? I probably won't shave the wiper or washer (I gotta drive this thing to work, even in the winter). But, I would like to remove the visor since they're so hard to find.

I really don't miss the wiper or washer. I don't look out the back much....usually use the side mirrors.

Also, I used LED license plate bolts.

My van is also my DD.

ShelGame
01-19-2010, 10:04 AM
Looks great Rob :thumb:

Thanks.

I drove it to work today with the latest T-SMEC build. It still has a very slight misfire. I'm going to datalog it on the way home (maybe at lunch, too) and see if I can capture it.

Since I fixed the speedo yesterday, the to-do list now looks like this:

1) Fix the misfire in T-SMEC. Pretty self explanatory, I think.

2) 1" lift blocks for the rear. Needs to be brought back up a bit.

3) Composite headlamps. +HID's. +Smoked lens covers.

4) Interior rattles. The interior panels all rattle like crazy over bumps.

5) Remove the license plate eyebrow.

6) Replace the rear window with a defroster-type. It's all scratched to hell anyway from a bad wiper blade.

Captain Chaos
01-19-2010, 11:22 AM
I bought a license plate light from Vatozone that is an upper chrome frame with approx. 10 led's in it.
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/ACRTURTLE/FLSDAC/P1183902-2.jpg

Vigo
01-20-2010, 12:04 PM
^ hey thats kinda neat!

Captain Chaos
01-20-2010, 12:17 PM
^ hey thats kinda neat!

I don't have any lit up pics but its plenty bright. I got a ticket because the cop said my previous one wasn't bright enough.

blk86trbo
01-21-2010, 03:13 PM
I don't have any lit up pics but its plenty bright. I got a ticket because the cop said my previous one wasn't bright enough.

Let me get this straight...you had a rear light for the plate, and it was operating, but you got a ticket because it "wasn't bright enough"???

Captain Chaos
01-21-2010, 03:30 PM
Let me get this straight...you had a rear light for the plate, and it was operating, but you got a ticket because it "wasn't bright enough"???

It was at night and he pulled me over because he couldn't see it lit up. Admittedly I had to put my hand under it to see light but it was functioning. I fixed it had my neighbor sign it and pay like $6. Basically a waste of time. Didn't write me for not having a rear bumper or cracked windshield though, lol.

ShelGame
02-08-2010, 10:42 AM
Been a little while since I had an update. So, here it is...

Yesterday I crawled under the van to try and fix the nagging oil leak (Ok, so it was my wife who's been nagging about the oil leak - apparently she doesn't like it when my boys walk thru the oil slick in the driveway and track it all over the place). I changed out the turbo oil drain easy enough. Sure enough, it had an internal nick in it that for sure was leaking at least some oil. But, I found it hard to believe it was big enough to leak 1 qt/wk. While I was under there, I started to look around and noticed oil coming from the front of the oil pan near the oil pressure sender. So, I popped the hood to have a look at the sender. No oil around the sender at all. Huh? Where's that oil coming from? Must be coming from... that loose oil pan bolt right there! DOH!

In all, I had 4 loose oil pan bolts, that one and 3 others around the back side of the pan. I've never had them loosen up, so I'm guessing I just didn't get them tight enough when I had the engine on the stand. Anyway, here's to hoping that stops the oil slick.

Next item on the to-do list is to replace the front brake rotors. When the front wheel fell off on my first trip in the van back in December, it flat-spotted the LF rotor. I didn't think much of it because the brakes still work great. But, I pick up a vibration at 75mph that I think must be that rotor being out-of-balance. The wheels tires were just done, the wheel bearings are all new. So that must be the vibration. I got a set of new rotors and pads and they'll go on next weekend (I hope - looks like we're getting a ton of snow this week).

Then, I need to fab up some 1" lift blocks for the rear suspension. Might do that next weekend, too, if I can.

Vigo
02-08-2010, 11:32 AM
I just had my first oil pan bolt back all the way out and fall out.. definitely had me wondering why it would happen now, on my 15th 2.5 engine or something lol.

ShelGame
02-14-2010, 08:59 AM
So, my boost has definitely NOT been in control since I got this thing running. I can't keep it out of overboost shutdown without pedalling it big time. I checked and double checked the WG plumbing and solenoid with no luck. Well, yesterday, I checked the WG actuator itself. It's a T1 Garret updated to T2 with the right comp and exhaust housings, and a 2-1/2" swingvalve. The can, though, is the old T1 big can. I guess it's stretched a little tight - I put my air compressor on it and turned the pressure down to ~10psi - it didn't open. I turned it up until it opened and it looks like it's not opening until ~20psi. Which would maybe be OK if I was running a 3-bar. But, it's still a 2-bar. So, I guess I'll need to crawl under there and shim the WG can away from the comp housing a bit. I don't remember how much prelaod there was on it - but it doesn't seem like it was a whole bunch....

Vigo
02-14-2010, 10:57 AM
You're saying you have an adjustable threaded arm on it and you've got it adjusted too tight? If you're going to the trouble of unbolting it from the comp housing, why not just pop the thing off and adjust it back to where it should be?

ShelGame
02-14-2010, 11:27 AM
You're saying you have an adjustable threaded arm on it and you've got it adjusted too tight? If you're going to the trouble of unbolting it from the comp housing, why not just pop the thing off and adjust it back to where it should be?

No, it's not adjustable. It's just the stock T1 actuator and rod. That's why I'm shimming it out. I hope there's enough room. It was really tight to the intake manifold. And, this is a PITA to do under the car. It was much easier on the stand...

Aries_Turbo
02-14-2010, 06:16 PM
take it off and make the rod threaded with a coupler, gus mahon style.

Brian

ShelGame
02-14-2010, 10:14 PM
Got a link to that? I think that would be preferred, but I don't want to spend big bucks to do it. If Gus did it, you can be sure it wasn't big bucks...

Vigo
02-14-2010, 10:37 PM
You can get the threaded end from FWDP pretty cheap. Then you just get a die for the thread and thread your stock arm.

Although, i have no idea why your can is that tight in the first place. Suspicious.

Aries_Turbo
02-14-2010, 11:16 PM
http://www.gusmahon.org/html/boost%20control.htm

1/4" 20tpi coupler. regular hardware store part.

ShelGame
02-15-2010, 09:08 AM
You can get the threaded end from FWDP pretty cheap. Then you just get a die for the thread and thread your stock arm.

Although, i have no idea why your can is that tight in the first place. Suspicious.

Probably has to do with the way I clocked it so I wouldn't have to grind the manifold or drill any holes in the bracket...

Reeves
02-15-2010, 10:39 AM
You can get the threaded end from FWDP pretty cheap. Then you just get a die for the thread and thread your stock arm.


I agree and think it's easier and more user friendly to purchase just the threaded end and then use a die to put 1/4-28 threads on the rod.

Vigo
02-16-2010, 12:57 AM
Probably has to do with the way I clocked it so I wouldn't have to grind the manifold or drill any holes in the bracket...


Oooohhhhhh. Yep :P

But hey, its one of those things you only have to fix once. :)

ShelGame
02-21-2010, 08:58 PM
Got to do a little more work on the van today. It was near 40 and sunny off and on all day. Tonight, we get 6-8 inches of snow. So, seemed like a good day to get some work done.

1st, I swapped the front brake rotors and pads. I flat-spotted a rotor when the wheel came off back in December and it caused an imbalance at ~75mph that was really getting annoying. Much better now. Though, there is still a slight vibration. I'm wondering if the driveshafts are not so good...

While I had the wheels off, I noticed that the tires had been rubbing the inner wheel well at full steering lock. I only really noticed any noise on one particular turn on my way to work. Apparently, it was from the tires rubbing. So, I installed the 3mm spacers I just took off the Daytona to put 6mm ones on. I guess we'll see if that works.

Then, I crawled under the car to (once again) try and track down the massive oil leak the thing has. I've now nicknamed the van 'The Valdez'. The k-frame and most of the front underbody is completely coated in oil. And, it leaves ~2' diameter oil slick everywhere I park. It drips from all over. But, I can't figure out where it's coming from. I thought oil pan, but it looks like it's coming from just a couple of spots. One is below the oil pressure sender, so I completely re-tapped it. Cross my fingers...

Finally, I installed the 1" lift blocks the I picked up off eBay. The rear is now level with the front. I think it should be slicghtly higher than the front. Still doesn't look exactly right. But, I think it will work fine until I decide to pull the front springs and drop it a little more. Really, it's nearly perfect for me. I think it would be tough to drop it only 1/2" up front.

So, that's the update for today...

turbovanmanČ
02-22-2010, 12:56 AM
While I had the wheels off, I noticed that the tires had been rubbing the inner wheel well at full steering lock. I only really noticed any noise on one particular turn on my way to work. Apparently, it was from the tires rubbing. So, I installed the 3mm spacers I just took off the Daytona to put 6mm ones on. I guess we'll see if that works.


Stock wheels rub, :(



Finally, I installed the 1" lift blocks the I picked up off eBay. The rear is now level with the front. I think it should be slicghtly higher than the front. Still doesn't look exactly right. But, I think it will work fine until I decide to pull the front springs and drop it a little more. Really, it's nearly perfect for me. I think it would be tough to drop it only 1/2" up front.

So, that's the update for today...

:needpics1:

turbokid
02-22-2010, 01:53 AM
Lol you're a leaker =P

135sohc
02-22-2010, 01:58 AM
Just the vans way of protecting itself.

turbovanmanČ
02-22-2010, 02:11 AM
Just the vans way of protecting itself.

Exactly, think of it as free rustproofing, :lol:

Turbo_Rampage
02-22-2010, 02:18 AM
Nice Project, :thumb:



Exactly, think of it as free rustproofing, :lol:

It's not leaking oil, it's just sweating from all that horsepower!:lol:

turbokid
02-22-2010, 02:25 AM
No its marking its territory

ShelGame
02-22-2010, 10:52 AM
Exactly, think of it as free rustproofing, :lol:

Ha! A quart a week is hardly free. I think Ziebart would be cheaper...

135sohc
02-22-2010, 05:49 PM
I havnt heard that name in a long time or even know they were still around. Ziebart closed shop around here 15 years ago.

ShelGame
02-23-2010, 10:17 AM
Almost forgot - the WGA is too hard to get at from under the van. I can only see 1 of the bolts, and I wouldn't be able to get it all the way out due to the water fitting.

I'm afraid I'm going to have to pull the turbo to swap out the WGA... :(

Also, an update: The van rides so much nicer now with the lift blocks in the back. I must have been hitting the bump stops pretty hard before because the van is back to being (nearly) plush over these rough Michigan roads.

A couple weeks ago, I had swapped out the headlight/rear wiper switch combo for a used one I plucked off eBay. The one I got had the rear defroster switch with it. I was hoping that there was a pigtail in the dash for the defroster, but no luck. I guess it will be tougher to add rear defrost than I was hoping. Maybe some day I'll get to it. It's tough to see out the back most mornings here.

Oh, and the rear wiper switch works great. However, the washer pump is always on now :( So, I had to unplug the switch. Back to no rear wiper...

So, the To-Do list now looks like this:

1) Fix the WGA so I have boost control.
2) Rear park brake cable install (wait for warm weather).
3) Composite headlamps +HID's +Smoked lens covers.
4) Interior rattles. The interior panels all rattle like crazy over bumps.
5) Remove the license plate eyebrow.
6) Fix the rear wiper/washer switch.

ShelGame
02-28-2010, 11:10 PM
This afternoon I picked up these seats from Paul (blk86trbo).

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee39/blk86trbo/Sundanceseats002.jpg
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee39/blk86trbo/Sundanceseats005.jpg
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee39/blk86trbo/Sundanceseats004.jpg



Thanks, Paul. They'll be going in hopefully next weekend. Updated pics soon!

Vigo
03-01-2010, 01:05 AM
Those seats look good!

Here's a heads up on stuff you'll run into:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=597757&postcount=31

turbokid
03-01-2010, 01:19 AM
Looks like the project is coming along well.

Sgt Craig
03-01-2010, 09:06 PM
Almost forgot - the WGA is too hard to get at from under the van. I can only see 1 of the bolts, and I wouldn't be able to get it all the way out due to the water fitting.

I'm afraid I'm going to have to pull the turbo to swap out the WGA... :(

Also, an update: The van rides so much nicer now with the lift blocks in the back. I must have been hitting the bump stops pretty hard before because the van is back to being (nearly) plush over these rough Michigan roads.

A couple weeks ago, I had swapped out the headlight/rear wiper switch combo for a used one I plucked off eBay. The one I got had the rear defroster switch with it. I was hoping that there was a pigtail in the dash for the defroster, but no luck. I guess it will be tougher to add rear defrost than I was hoping. Maybe some day I'll get to it. It's tough to see out the back most mornings here.

Oh, and the rear wiper switch works great. However, the washer pump is always on now :( So, I had to unplug the switch. Back to no rear wiper...

So, the To-Do list now looks like this:

1) Fix the WGA so I have boost control.
2) Rear park brake cable install (wait for warm weather).
3) Composite headlamps +HID's +Smoked lens covers.
4) Interior rattles. The interior panels all rattle like crazy over bumps.
5) Remove the license plate eyebrow.
6) Fix the rear wiper/washer switch.

Well atleast your wiper switch didnt do what mine did on the way to a job interview.Hit the switch to turn it on,swiped a few times then stopped,smelled a electrical smell, then smoke starting poring out from the switch,Pull off the road and started ripping the dash apart to unplug the switch.The switch was very hot,LOL.

Vigo
03-02-2010, 01:17 AM
Ive adjusted the dimmer while driving at night only to lose the headlights completely.

See, sometime after they built the cars we like for some reason, they finally got this bright idea to run headlights off a RELAY so the switch only deals with ~.3 amp instead of 20.. DRRRRRRRRRRR

Reaper1
03-04-2010, 01:05 AM
^^I mod my car to do this anyways!! Makes the headlights brighter too! :thumb:

ShelGame
03-05-2010, 09:26 PM
Tonight I updated the cal in the van with the latest T-SMEC templates (that I just updated in the repository). Man, this van is a complete freakin' blast to drive. Smoother idle, now too.

Tomorrow, it's supposed to be 40+ degrees and sunny. The seats are going in. And, the running boards are probbaly coming off. They're ugly and they rattle...

turbovanmanČ
03-05-2010, 09:33 PM
Are you going to email the pics, its just sitting here collecting dust, :eyebrows:

ShelGame
03-05-2010, 09:45 PM
Err, pics of what? The link thingy?

turbovanmanČ
03-06-2010, 03:24 PM
Err, pics of what? The link thingy?

The console, I have the window piece you need, just need to know what you need off the console. You said you would email me the pics of what you need, :eyebrows:

ShelGame
03-06-2010, 11:39 PM
Got the seats in today. I had to re-drill the van seat bases to fit the Sundance seats. The Sundance seat rails were 3/4" narrower than the van's mounting holes (16.5 vs. 17.25"). No big deal, though. There's just enough meat in the van seat bases to do it. The massive washers help.

The seats look great, I think. They're from an '89 Sundance, so the vinyl color matches perfectly. I transferred over the sidecovers fro mth van. The screw pattern is exactly the same, and they're a little longer - they cover up the seat rails.

The seats are comfortable, and a whole lot more supportive than the original van seats...

That's my crew chief, Cameron, inspecting my work...

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/886/medium/100_1040.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/886/medium/100_1044.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/886/medium/100_1046.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/886/medium/100_1047.JPG

And also, a pic of the van's current stance with the lift blocks added in a couple weeks ago...

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/886/medium/100_1039.JPG

blk86trbo
03-06-2010, 11:45 PM
You're partner looks like he's having a great time, that's so neat...memories like that will be fun to reminisce about when they grow up!

Those seats appear to give lots of support and look really nice in there! Did you get a good deal on them? :eyebrows:

black86glhs
03-07-2010, 12:13 AM
You're partner looks like he's having a great time, that's so neat...memories like that will be fun to reminisce about when they grow up!

Those seats appear to give lots of support and look really nice in there! Did you get a good deal on them? :eyebrows:

Trust anything from Paul.........IDK.......seems kinda shifty. :p




LOL! Just kidding with ya Paul....seats looked really nice.

blk86trbo
03-07-2010, 12:27 AM
LOL! Just kidding with ya Paul....seats looked really nice.

LOL Bryan, yeah the seats were in good shape! It was worth storing them in my attic for 8 years, I knew someone would need them eventually :)

black86glhs
03-07-2010, 01:42 AM
LOL Bryan, yeah the seats were in good shape! It was worth storing them in my attic for 8 years, I knew someone would need them eventually :)

I knew those hoarding shows were wrong.....it is a good thing!:p:eyebrows:

ShelGame
03-16-2010, 09:58 AM
So, it looks like my fix for the oil leak (finally) worked. I removed the (crappy auto parts store) PCV valve and just plumbed the hose to the air filter housing. I blocked the port on the manifold. Looks like no more oil leak - for the past 2 weeks. I guess the PCV was leaking and allowing boost into the crankcase, pushing the oil out of, well, everywhere. As soon as it's warm enough, I'll foamy the engine bay and under body to clean it all up. What a mess...

Reeves
03-16-2010, 10:43 AM
So, it looks like my fix for the oil leak (finally) worked. I removed the (crappy auto parts store) PCV valve and just plumbed the hose to the air filter housing. I blocked the port on the manifold. Looks like no more oil leak - for the past 2 weeks. I guess the PCV was leaking and allowing boost into the crankcase, pushing the oil out of, well, everywhere. As soon as it's warm enough, I'll foamy the engine bay and under body to clean it all up. What a mess...

Glad to hear you got it fixed :clap:

I don't run a PCV valve with boost other than stock, for that reason!

ShelGame
03-16-2010, 01:24 PM
My van is pretty much stock at this point. At least, stock injectors and 2-bar boost. It does have a Garret and T2 I/C. But, I think the auto parts store PCV is just not up to the job. I tried blowing thru it and it does close, but still - it must have been leaking...

ShelGame
03-23-2010, 09:44 AM
OK, so not much new on the van. Been busy with other things.

But, I have been getting 18-19mpg combined highway and city. My highway driving is always during rush hour, so usually stop and go. What do others get in the thier vans? I was hoping this thing would get 22-25mpg. I'm still running a completely stock T-SMECv16 build. I'll start to play with the fuelling, I guess...

Also, I keep getting a fuel leak at the fuel hoses to the engine. I think I need to get soem different hose. The stuff I bought looks like silicone hose (shiny). It's really pretty hard. I'm using EFI hose clamps, but I don't think they can compress this hose enough to keep it sealed.

Reeves
03-23-2010, 10:13 AM
I only get about 15 to 16.5mpg in my van :(
Hopefully a fresh 2.5L will help that some day.

Vigo
03-23-2010, 10:18 AM
my 90 van as a tbi 2.5 with a 3.85 523 avg'd 27 in mostly highway driving.

In the Aries i went from tbi to turbo and nearly the same everything else and hwy mileage dropped by about 2 mpg. I dont know how big of a drop it is for most other people, but with a 5 speed i would have guessed you would be getting 22-25 avg too. My van got 22 with a dead o2.

Sgt Craig
03-24-2010, 07:21 PM
Im getting 18 Combined here in the hills of Pittsburgh.Out on the flats of IL Id get 20-21.This tank seems a little better so far since I removed the Balance shafts.Id like to get better but its so freakin hard to keep my foot out of it.My 3/4ton Ram gets better mileage than my van.

ShelGame
03-26-2010, 10:26 AM
Now, I'm pulling a code 52 (rich condition too long). So, I've got to figure that out. It would explain why the mileage is not quite as good as I'd like. I'll datalog it on the way home tonight and see what there is too see...

ShelGame
04-12-2010, 09:34 AM
Still haven't figured out the code 52.

But, I did get a set of FFV injectors over the weekend. They'll be going in soon. Also got a trailer hitch and 7-pin plug that I need to mount and wire in. I'm planning to take the Daytona to Indy on the 23rd for the NHRA points meet. Going to use the van to pull it on my little open deck trailer...

turbovanmanČ
04-12-2010, 02:00 PM
I only get about 15 to 16.5mpg in my van :(
Hopefully a fresh 2.5L will help that some day.

That's about right, :(


Still haven't figured out the code 52.

But, I did get a set of FFV injectors over the weekend. They'll be going in soon. Also got a trailer hitch and 7-pin plug that I need to mount and wire in. I'm planning to take the Daytona to Indy on the 23rd for the NHRA points meet. Going to sue the van to pull it on my little open deck trailer...

Why are you going to sue the van???????? What did it do to you? :mad:



So, it looks like my fix for the oil leak (finally) worked. I removed the (crappy auto parts store) PCV valve and just plumbed the hose to the air filter housing. I blocked the port on the manifold. Looks like no more oil leak - for the past 2 weeks. I guess the PCV was leaking and allowing boost into the crankcase, pushing the oil out of, well, everywhere. As soon as it's warm enough, I'll foamy the engine bay and under body to clean it all up. What a mess...


Yeah, even Dodge stopped making the rubber sealed turbo PCV valves. Best thing now if you want to run one is the Supra Turbo, it doesn't leak under boost.


OK, so not much new on the van. Been busy with other things.

But, I have been getting 18-19mpg combined highway and city. My highway driving is always during rush hour, so usually stop and go. What do others get in the thier vans? I was hoping this thing would get 22-25mpg. I'm still running a completely stock T-SMECv16 build. I'll start to play with the fuelling, I guess...


Honestly, I've leaned out the van to the point of being dangerous and didn't help ONE bit, :(

I am just going to build a LU trans, that should make a huge difference on the highway and go back to my stock gearing.

ShelGame
04-12-2010, 02:04 PM
Doh!!

ShelGame
05-02-2010, 11:05 PM
Well, it's been 1 year to the day since I picked this van up. I have about 4k miles on it now. Been running great since Jan with no real issues. I do need to fix the WG still, and I bought a set of FFV injectors to put in it with a 2.5 bar MAP. I want to run 16psi daily - which should be no big deal.

Still trying to get a decent hitch on it. Hopefully, I can use it to tow to the next race @ Norwalk the weekend of the 15th.

ShelGame
05-03-2010, 08:25 AM
I meant to post about this little issue a while back: Oil pressure guage and 'Check Guages' lamp. What sets off the 'check gauges' lamp on the Minivan dash? Mine keeps turning on. Sometimes, the ammeter will be slightly low, sometimes there's no indication of anything wrong. Sometimes, my tach bounces up or down a couple of thousand RPM (while cruising down the freeway). And finally - sometimes, at idle, the oil pressure guage drops to less than 0 oil pressure. It drops really fast, like the power was just turned off fast. It comes right back up to the middle of the guage with the slightest blip of the throttle. And, it doesn't do it every time. So, I'm not really worried about the oil pressure. However, when it drops, it only comes back with a blip of the throttle. So, I'm slightly worried.

With everything else going on with the dash, I'm assuming a bad ground, etc. in the dash itself somewhere (the alt was brand new when I assembled the engine, and I've had it checked since - works fine and puts out 13+v at idle).

Plus, I can't think of a mechanism that would cause a sudden loss of oil pressure to less-than-zero (1/4" past the "L" on the guage) that would nearly instantly come back with an extra 100rpm.

But, what should I be looking for in the dash? Bad solder joint? Where? This issue has me pretty much stumped. Mostly, it's just annoying...

PBODY
05-03-2010, 09:15 AM
I have the same problem with the oil pressure on my Spirit. When it is hot, at idle (like exiting the interstate) it will stop reading and the oil light comes on. No noises from the engine. A mechanical gauge shows about 8 psi of oil pressure hot at idle. I changed the oil to 10w40 and added a pint of Lucas oil stabalizer and it helped a lot.

ShelGame
05-21-2010, 08:11 AM
OK - I got a cheapo aftermarket oil pressure gauge to see what's really going on with the oil pressure. I'm not too worried, as often as I have seeming lost all oil pressure, then van still runs amazing. I'm 99% sure the gauge on the dash is lying. I'll get the mechanical gauge hooked up this weekend and see for sure.

On a side note - it hit 80 here yesterday, so I finally hooked up the A/C belt and tried to charge it. It was previously converted to R134. The instructions said to put the A/C on 'max' and then open the valve. I did both, but my A/C was completely empty (because I swapped to a Sundance condenser). The A/C clutch never cycled. The system took some charge, but the gauge only shows 25psi - at the very bottom of the 'low' scale. It didn't even take 1 full can. I thought it would take at least 2. I'm pretty sure the compressor needs to spin to fully charge the system.

So, how do you charge a completely empty A/C system?

Reeves
05-21-2010, 08:14 AM
OK - I got a cheapo aftermarket oil pressure gauge to see what's really going on with the oil pressure. I'm not too worried, as often as I have seeming lost all oil pressure, then van still runs amazing. I'm 99% sure the gauge on the dash is lying. I'll get the mechanical gauge hooked up this weekend and see for sure.

On a side note - it hit 80 here yesterday, so I finally hooked up the A/C belt and tried to charge it. It was previously converted to R134. The instructions said to put the A/C on 'max' and then open the valve. I did both, but my A/C was completely empty (because I swapped to a Sundance condenser). The A/C clutch never cycled. The system took some charge, but the gauge only shows 25psi - at the very bottom of the 'low' scale. I'm pretty sure the compressor needs to spin to fully charge the system.

So, how do you charge a completely empty A/C system?

First, you must put it under a vacuum to get all the air and moisture out (since it was completely empty).

Then you need to jumper the low pressure? switch. It's in the back near the firewall.

A/C guru's may correct me....I'm not a pro. Warren (csxtra) is good at it.

ShelGame
05-21-2010, 08:27 AM
What kind of vacuum? I have a Mi-T-vac hand pump. I also have an HP medical grade vacuum pump I used for vacuum bagging fiberglass fenders I made for my motorcycles back in the day...

Reeves
05-21-2010, 09:12 AM
What kind of vacuum? I have a Mi-T-vac hand pump. I also have an HP medical grade vacuum pump I used for vacuum bagging fiberglass fenders I made for my motorcycles back in the day...

Big vacuum, and it takes a while. I believe you can get a decent vacuum pump at Harbor Freight.

Where's CSXTRA when you need him!

LOL

Fiberglass huh? Hmmm.....

csxtra
05-21-2010, 09:45 AM
Where's CSXTRA when you need him!


What he said...the idea behind pulling the vacuum is to get all residual air and moisture out of the system so only the oil and refrigerant are in there. Put the oil in the system then pull the vacuum.

By pulling a hard vacuum to at least 27 inches of HG for at least 30 minutes, all the moisture in the system will boil into vapor and be extracted, leaving a dry system behind for charging.

Here's a link I found explaining how to pull vacuum (worked the Google on the Internet machine):
http://www.redhillsupply.com/content/how-to-vacuum-pump-ac.htm

Once you have a hard vacuum, you can jumper the pressure switch on the expansion block to get the compressor clutch to engage so you can charge the system.

Hope this helps,
Warren

Vigo
05-21-2010, 10:22 AM
Ive also just jumped power to the ac clutch.

After you've pulled vacuum on the system for a while, turn the pump off and watch the gauge.. Im not sure about those HF pumps but if they seal up then you should just be able to watch the vacuum gauge and see if it loses any vacuum. If it does, you've probably got a leak somewhere, and this gives you a chance to go looking for it before you waste any refrigerant.

If the leak is not easily visible, one DIY kinda trick ive done is to pull the schrader valve out of one of the fittings and pressurize the system with a rubber-tipped air gun. Ive had some good success doing that. Then re-vacuum again once its fixed.

The vacuum in the system, in addition to pulling out moisture, also helps suck in that first can so that you have enough charge in the system for the compressor to run with no jumpering.

Once the compressor is running, the low side pressure stays fairly low and that helps flow from the can.. if it wasnt running the static pressure at full charge could be as much as 90 psi or somewhere in there.

Are you using gauges and a can tap or just a low side fill hose? If you have gauges i find an easy trick for getting the cans empty is to close the low side valve, open the high side valve and pressurize the can to whatever the high side is running, then close the high side and open the low side and repeat this process until the can is empty. I also hold the can upside down once it gets close to empty to speed that last bit along (never had a problem doing that, either). I just hold the can to my ear and listen to it, the noise tells you when its empty.

Ive wondered about those Harbor Freight vacuum pumps.. If you get one let us know how it works :)

135sohc
05-21-2010, 09:07 PM
We just got one of those harbor freight vac pumps yesterday. put it to use today and it worked great.

Aries_Turbo
05-21-2010, 11:15 PM
which pump did you get.

they have a 15$ venturi style that is said to pull 28"hg of vacuum when hooked to a air compressor. said to use 4.2cfm@90psi to create vacuum. i wonder if it works well?

EDIT..... just did a little research, air powered venturi pumps dont work nearly as well as a mechanical vac pump. 28" only works to boil the water off if the engine bay is really hot. stick with a mech pump.

Brian

135sohc
05-21-2010, 11:30 PM
http://www.harborfreight.com/two-stage-9-cfm-air-vacuum-pump-66467.html

Vigo
05-21-2010, 11:30 PM
I just got the 2.5cfm electric one today but havent used it yet.

Reeves
05-22-2010, 07:42 AM
28" only works to boil the water off if the engine bay is really hot. stick with a mech pump.

Brian

?? :confused2:

Aries_Turbo
05-22-2010, 10:33 AM
there is a chart somewhere of vacuum levels and temperatures. at sea level and 28" of vacuum (what the venturi pump can pull down to when hooked to a good compressor), water boils at 100 degrees ambient temperature. running the engine first and getting everything good and hot could work but i dont totally trust the harbor freight venturi pump specs even though its cheap. :)

Brian

csxtra
05-22-2010, 12:44 PM
there is a chart somewhere of vacuum levels and temperatures. at sea level and 28" of vacuum (what the venturi pump can pull down to when hooked to a good compressor), water boils at 100 degrees ambient temperature. running the engine first and getting everything good and hot could work but i dont totally trust the harbor freight venturi pump specs even though its cheap. :)

Brian

That's why I always run the car to get it up to temp AND put the heater on high when I'm pulling vacuum for at least 45 minutes...even with my 6CFM Robinair vac pump. I want to be sure I get ALL the water vapor out of there, because I'm too cheap to spring for a micron vacuum gauge that will tell me exactly how much vacuum I have pulled.

If the lighting is right, I can see light wisps of water vapor coming out of the exit of my vacuum pump. If I see any vapor even after 45 minutes, I keep pulling vacuum until I can't see any more vapor wisps.

Reeves
05-22-2010, 03:13 PM
there is a chart somewhere of vacuum levels and temperatures. at sea level and 28" of vacuum (what the venturi pump can pull down to when hooked to a good compressor), water boils at 100 degrees ambient temperature. running the engine first and getting everything good and hot could work but i dont totally trust the harbor freight venturi pump specs even though its cheap. :)

Brian

I was just saying that 28" is dang near perfect vacuum. I think it was 29.9 is absolute vacuum. ??

There are pumps that do better than 28"?

ShelGame
05-22-2010, 04:18 PM
OK, so today I broke out my pump, but couldn't figure out a way to hook it up and press the button the Schrader valve. So, I tried just charging it again while jumpering the pressure switch wires. I got it to take a pretty good charge (according to the gauge that came with the can), but still didn't blow cold air. The A/C compresor kick on/off by itself now. I drove it, came home, checked the charge again, and it's low. Figures, it hasn't even taken a full can yet. I've done this maybe 2 more times since. Everytime, after a drive, the pressure is low again. Still hasn't taken much more than 1 can. Still doesn't blow cold air. Does this sound right? Should I just keep trying to charge it? I don't have the $$ for a professional evac/fill right now...

Vigo
05-23-2010, 10:50 AM
Well...

First off, if it still has less than 1 can (which is really only ~10 oz of refrigerant when you subtract the oil) then it's not going to cool well.

Second, what's a pretty good charge to you? Keep in mind that the low side pressure you're shooting for has to high enough at idle so that when you rev the engine to 1500-2000 rpm, it doesnt drop TOO low. So if you're reading it at idle, id try to get it to the 45 psi range, and itll probably drop to 30-35psi once you're off idle at cruise rpm.

Third, a set of gauges from Harbor Freight with a 20% off coupon is maybe $40. This is what i have! With all the time you could spend doing 3 test drives and waaaaiiiiiitttting for the can to empty itself, you could be using the trick i mentioned about repressurizing the can with the gauges and get it done much quicker!

ShelGame
05-31-2010, 02:06 PM
I have about a can and a half in it now (brute force method, I just kept shaking the can and runnign the compressor). It blows pretty cold, but not near as cold as a 'new' car. The pressure still shows only about 25psi on the gauge. I'm going to try and put some more in this afternoon. Thanks for the tips guys. I will go and get a set of those HF gauges next time.

Also, on Saturday, I finished rivetting in the lower radiator mount. I never had the time to do it over the winter and the rad's been kind of juts hangin in there. It's fully mounted now. I also trimmed the upper mount down a bit so it didn't scratch the crap out of my arm eveytime I go to adjust the alternator belt or work on the AC.

I got a 2nd flashable computer up and runnign for the van now, too. Did some data logging on T-SMEC to refine the anti-lag code a little bit.

2.5-bar MAP and FFV injectors are coming soon...

Vigo
06-01-2010, 01:18 PM
Remember that if you rev the engine a little bit it will pull the low side pressure down some which will help pull the charge out of the can.

Where are you getting 2.5bar map?

wowzer
06-01-2010, 01:31 PM
... Did some data logging on T-SMEC to refine the anti-lag code a little bit.....

have u tried mpscan for logging? curious to hear some feedback.

ShelGame
06-01-2010, 02:08 PM
have u tried mpscan for logging? curious to hear some feedback.

Morris - MP Scan is ALL I use for data logging anymore. Though, I do have an odd problem (that I'm not even sure is related to MP Scan) - every once in a while, the FTDI cable stops working and MP Scan shuts down. Usually, it happens right as I'm collecting some really good data on a problem I've been having, lol.

Overall, I think it's a really great program.